Holy crap Tinman, you're hitting ALL the little nuances! Took me YEARS to learn what your pointing out. Wish this video was around when I was learning. Excellent video.
This video is by far the best "How to file a chainsaw chain" I have watched (and I've watched a ton of experts). The real value of your video is that you not only show the process, but you also give a very good explanation of why you are doing it and what the consequences of incorrect profile are. Thank you for a very informative video.
‘I also prefer to pull with my right hand’ 😂 Seriously not enough Aussies watch your channel, they would have jumped all over that statement. Great video, best sharpening video I have seen yet 👍🏻
Great job on keeping the video simple and to the point!👍👍 I believe the biggest issues for most folks when learning are dull files (if you don't see a pile of metal you are just stroking the air), not applying near enough pressure and not near enough strokes of the file.(3 or 4 gentle strokes may work on a touch up but dull/damaged chain will ALOT more) I have broken a sweat many a times digging in and getting one truly ready to cut!🤠
Thank you so much for this video. Chain sharpening is something I have been a bit timid to tackle but after watching this I feel like I can get started on it. Great detail and to the point.
Loved this 👍 appreciate you using simple terms to describe things far too many channels with go overboard explaining things then the viewer gets confused especially newer users, awesome job and she cut like butter.
Mr. Tinman once again you've put out a great video!! Easy to understand content and super good information. The demonstration on the wood shows people what to expect from a truly sharp chain!!! Kudos to you friend!
He puts the bar cover on the tailgate of the truck to prevent the teeth from dulling while touching it but then jams the tip of the bar into the corner of the truck box.
Great video Tinman,this video brought back a lot of memories I can remember my Grandfather showing me how to do this on the back of his truck bed when I was 15 years old,everyone should watch this video to always have a sharp chain and one that cuts.
I hand filed all my saws. Usually in my vise. I bought plastic grips for the vise so I don't damage the bar. Use a Oregon guarge to .025 thou, then one full stroke on each raker so I likely end up at about .028 thou. The saws cut wicked good and never have a issue with skipping or being to sharp thus stalling out the saw. On another note got my 272xp in the wood today. Cut some 16" green ash. Man does it cut great. 20in Holzfforma bar with a full comp chain, new 266 muffler, new chain break, 234A tillotson carb,, new clutch (3C spring steel type) bearings, seals, cylinder, piston, deleted base gasket, new fuel line and filter, new oiler. My new favor saw...lol. I'll send you a video on email. Nice video as always. TC Mahalo Tinman🤙🤙🤙
thanks Mr. Tinman, I could never figure out where the file was exactly supposed to be and the close up with the camera helped answer that. You've helped me so much, thank you sir!
The stihl 2 in 1 tool actually works really well. Takes a minute to get used to but it files in half the time. As for alternate sharpening spots- during the last ufc fight, i used a shipping box to hold the saw while i sharpened a few chains while in bed.
Great video Tinman. Heard about you many times watching Buckin - he must be a great friend to have. He speaks only great things about his friends, mentions you often. I like your work. Great job sir.
This was an excellent one Tinman!! You are right about a sharp chain making any saw much faster cutting and more enjoyable as well as you don't have to fight the saw. Keep the great content up and enjoy being a dad!!!!!
Great video Tinman! I purchased one of those Husky file guides about 3 years ago; piece of rubbish. The Stihl 2 -in-1 file guide is AWESOME! Love it but you've still got to check the gullet every now and then (no problemo). The Oregon grinder is too fast and removes too much of the tooth for my liking. The Granberg gadgets look pretty cool but I can't find them here in Australia so I've never had the chance to try one out.
I use a Oregon guide and dig the gullet out after the top is sharp ,when the cutter is worn down it gets the gullet with the guide by itself . Nice video !
It is cool seeing you sharpen with the same tools I do that little roller guide does work good if you hand file the chain first and get the gullet then use the roller gadget to get the top plate razor sharp and at the rite angle I stopped using mine though practice and a good teacher thanks bucken
THANK YOU! My saw has been stalling, when dogged in. Been keeping the rakers higher, but I didn't know that about the "C". Gonna play around with this. Great video
Nice Vid, tinman! I only handfiled all my life, but for the .404 rippinchains I now prefere to grab a grinder. They dull after every 3rd or 4th slap of oak (if you don't hit anything) and it gets a real pain in the a** to handfile them in the evening. For bucking and felling i use square ground chains and the are only handfiled (that grinder costs way to much and I like that filing - and want to train myself to get the filing to perfection). Best wishes to your wife an baby. Hope you're all doing well! Stay safe and secure!
Tinman, you and Buckin have done the best hand filing videos out there. I have found that since I adjusted my way of filing, my cutting experience has dramatically improved. The art of “knowing how to do stuff “ is dying slowly. Humanity has become a “disposable product consumer “ over the course of time. The big box stores power equipment is “Meh” and it has no longevity, thanks to folks mixing their own gas with ethanol mixed in. I quit running anything with ethanol in any of my 2 strokes. Have you thought about maybe doing a series on running 2 identical saws, running 40:1 in one and 50:1 in the other for a period of time and pulling the top ends off and checking ring wear, etc. I personally run 40:1 in all my saws and weed eating equipment. Thanks for all the info that you give out. Much love to you from NC🤙🤙
Vielen Dank für das Video! Mit dieser im Video gezeigten Methode habe ich es nie hinbekommen. Da ich selbst nicht viel Holz mache habe ich auch nicht viele Ketten zum schleifen gehabt. Vor etwa 2 Jahren habe ich das 2 in 1 Schleifgerät von Stihl/Pferd (2 in 1 Chainsharpener) für mich entdeckt. Seitdem bekomme ich als ungeübter Kettenschleifer meine Ketten immer superscharf hin. Tiefenbegrenzer und Zahn werden gleichzeitig und in den richtigen Winkeln automatisch gefeilt. Die Form der Feile und die abgebildeten Grafiken ist es für jeden Laien/Profi sehr einfach scharfe Ketten zu feilen.
Great stuff. I love your emphasis on smooth cutting. I fix saws for a firm as part of my living and I see a lot of very blunt/damaged chains and chains with incorrect angles and gullets. This means that the operators are working much harder than they need to, are damaging bars (and saws) and exposing themselves to more risk than is necessary. When felling, it is harder to get accurate cuts with a blunt chain. Misplaced cuts make it more likely that your fell will go wrong. Running with a blunt chain gives the temptation to push on the saw or swing it on the dogs to force it to cut. When you're doing this you are gripping the saw harder which increases the effects of vibration on hands and arms. If your depth gauges are high, the same temptation applies. If your gullets are too deep (and depth gauges too low) you get more vibration and you have to hang on to the saw harder. Why am I getting excited about 'smooth cutting' and low vibes? 'Cos vibes cause tissue and nerve damage. Prolonged exposure to high levels of vibes causes carpal tunnel syndrome and/or Reynaud's syndrome (also known as vibration whitefinger or Hand Arm Vibration Syndrome). There is a painful and damned inconvenient operation to fix the first, but as the second is nerve damage and nerves don't regenerate, HAVS is yours for life, and it's life-changing. Happy days. Love this post and the older one.
It surprises me how many tree guys don't realize this or care. I custom file my chains so they perform much better than new, and when they are slightly duller than a new chain, its time to kiss it with a file. Too many tree guys don't understand that it costs you less time to keep up on a chain than wait till the teeth lost shape before sharpening.
@@nate2838 Yeah, me too! A lot of foremen and company owners don't seem to care either. They foster a culture of 'make the effort, get the job done'. But stopping at convenient points in the work for little, short breaks and a tickle on the saw chain keeps you fresh. It also speeds up the work in the long run 'cos as well as your cuts all taking less time and effort, while you 'tickle' and take on a drink of water, you can be thinking through the next fell or the route the forwarder is going to take to uplift your bunched product. You can direct your next fells so you can be efficient and economical on effort of doing the bunching. Keep your little breakies short and the foreman doesn't notice the same as he would for a longer sharpen. The boss doesn't notice, ditto, even if he (usually 'he') is on site. This is the same boss that has collated all the saw vibration stats, done the risk assessments and put them in the job pack and method statement and supplied them to the client. He is bound by them but usually is far more interested in 'more effort' than what they actually mean.
Hey bud, just started watching your channel. For a long time I kept listening to Buckin and he kept talking about Tinman. One time he said you should go to Tinmans channel and see what he’s about. So I have listened to 6 or so videos. I enjoy your videos and have picked up some things, so thank you and keep sharing your knowledge.
Dang it your going to make me sharpen my old chains as well as buying a couple new ones for next weekend. I have a big oak to drop and cleanup. I want good sharp chains for this. The tree needs to go between a shed and power line and not hit the neighbors house. It has just a bit of canopy weight on the backside but it’s perfectly square to the fall line so I’m confident I can do it. If there was nothing around I feel like I could do it free hand so adding a winch line and using wedges as insurance I’m fairly confident in the drop, and my insurance 😂😂😂. I’ll charge $1 to make it business to make it covered without question. I initially spent 10 minutes looking at it thinking a climber was needed until I saw the line. The lightbulb went on, and I said I’ll do it if the neighbor gives written permission with a statement saying if the ground was disturbed it wouldn’t be considered damage.
New Subscriber Mr. Tinman! Great video and explanation on filing. Watching this and also Buckin Billy Ray have helped me out. Found your Channel when some firewood friends posted videos of you at Bunyan! Thanks again for the knowledge.
Great video! Especially about the burr. I would have shown people the tooth slightly before the burr forms, looking from the front. You can usually see a little line across right below the top of the tooth. Some people don't realize how far you actually go to get to the top of the tooth. I like that you go heavy into it, to get the gullet back, and then lighten up when you are close to the top and making the final few strokes. And, you talked about too much hook a little, and not enough. You said have the file about 2/3 down, to get the correct C, and I think that is where experience on how hard and when to push down, lighten up a little, etc. comes in. You could have showed a little more on rakers. But, everyone figures that out pretty quick. I do them all from my strong side, and just angle the file a little more on the wrong side, so it doesn't chatter. I just got a crappy blue grinder, and I cannot get that thing to make me a decent chain. Yeah, it is a bit faster to sharpen - but then I need to go back and hand file all the chain again anyway ... so it actually takes almost twice as long.
I love those Husqvarna filing kits , the handle is perfect and I love the guide , I go both by eye and with those roller guides , I'm getting close to not needing the guide anymore but I still use it to double check myself , it will be nice when I get to where I don't need it anymore but I will always carry it to use as a teaching tool if nothing else , great video tinman , one of these days I want to get a tinman special I have a 372xp(xtorque that I would like to convert to an oe) that I'd like to send you to work your magic on and then further down the line a 2188 Jred , 390xp 394xp 395xp , I also have some 200 series huskies that were left to me out by uncle along with the afore mentioned 372xp (I also have a Jred 2172 which I love dearly as it is. all the xps had been out of use for a couple years before they came my way and they could all use a little tlc and refreshing, and there's only a select few people who I'd feel confident in sending them off to , you , Charlie brisco, iron horse, and walker are my top choices but I'm still happy with how they run as they are aka I haven't felt the need for more power out of them yet
I find the filing guide for the x-cut chains are perfect. I find they cut the gullet out just fine. The only thing I don't like, they don't work on the stihl chain.
I love those Husqvarna filing kits as well. My 545 cuts like a banshee especially when the rakers are filled to spec. The kit is recommended by Husqvarna in the owners manual so that alone sold me.
If there is anything an aspiring saw wrench or porter should learn first, it's THIS, in my opiniom. If the chain ain't sharp, you're on the fast track to failure.
Thank you for dumbing it up. Don't take offense to me saying this. I watched 3 or 4 other videos and didn't understand what they were talking about. You helped me understand. Thank you. Really, I'd buy you a couple rounds if I were close. Thanks again
@@shakeyjake9813I wish you the best, brother. Get those chains SHARP and learn how to recognize when they are going dull and learn how different sharpening angles do with different types of wood. It's a big deal.
@tinman long time watcher! , what do I do if my chain has a big hook from using the wrong size file for this chain until I bought the right one. I have a huge hook on my oregan skip tooth. Should I just replace it? It cuts like a banshee like you said but dulls super fast in the hard wood im cutting.
Use the little husky flat steel raker guage with hard, thicker side and the soft thinner side so you can take a little more of your drags down . I'm thinking about trying the hard side more because I have lots of hard wood. Lot of popular also. Yeah, huskys rakerp plate is fire but that 1 u have looks pretty cool
I've found Oregon 73 chain comes set up for hardwood. Most of my cutting here is softwood (Pinus Radiata, Radiata pine, through your probably know it as Monterey pine) through depending on what the wind blows down I can do a lot of hardwood (New Zealand Red Beech and Kanuka). So first thing out of the box onto the bar is to hit the rakers to take a bigger bite. It's not worth having different chains for different woods, I just put up with grabby chains when doing hardwood and good cutting in softwood. I have to admit tho, I'd like to get the parts saws fixed and run a softwood saw and a hardwood saw. Identical 120si Dolmars with differently set up chains. It also looks like you're using 4.8mm file on .325? Why not 4mm? That's what I use on the 52cc 111 Dolmar. The 4.8mm gets used on the 3/8 chain.
When I saw the thumbnail and title I thought this was a Buckin video! Tin man you are awesome I love your work. I hope someday soon I can send you a saw to build for me. Take care buddy and be kind
Oh, and I like to watch the shavings from the file, right before you get to the top of the tooth straight across, you can see them forming right above the file contact point, and the burr usually comes the next stroke or 2.
I sharpen just like that when I'm not at my vice, bar stuffed into the corner of my pickup bed. I use those same files and just the raker gauge not the roller thing. One more thing on those file handles it has the a 25 and 30° side the 30° side lines up with the line on the chain so if you just push the file all the way to the bar it helps you keep a consistent angle. I don't push it right to the handle every stroke but just to keep it in check.
Great video man! I'm sharpening a .325 chain with 3/16 file and I'm cutting into straps just above rivets. Not sure if it's a husqvarna thing or not but seems like chain would get compromised
Good stuff. Very interesting seeing the results of "wrong file, too big" and how to correct it. Have you experimented with "the wrong file that's too small"? Like a 5/32 instead of the 3/16? I think Buckin did that as an experiment, could be interesting. Hope all is good with the new "little tinman" ( or would that be Tinman Jr?) and your wife.
While the tip up vs down is very important with the correct file, its absolutely critical with the wrong file. Too big? Tip down to get under the tip of the tooth. Too small? Tip up to cut the corner instead of undercutting the tooth. Its also helpful to start with a downward angle to develop a seat for your file on the inside (opposite the cutting corner) corner to use for stability while sharpening with a different curve than it already has. This also works great when the saw is damaged, and is essentially the boat stroke.
You file just like me. But I one hand both sides. I was tired of finding something the right height to put my tip against, and my tailgate isn't always in the shade. Bsafe bud
I knew when I finally started getting my filing correct because all of a sudden I put the bar in some wood and without putting any pressure on the bar and chain it was eating into the wood itself. Pulling itself into the wood.
Holy crap Tinman, you're hitting ALL the little nuances! Took me YEARS to learn what your pointing out. Wish this video was around when I was learning. Excellent video.
Just picked up a husky 44 practica white top Minty barn find 25 bucks cant wait to get it running. Love the vids.
This video is by far the best "How to file a chainsaw chain" I have watched (and I've watched a ton of experts). The real value of your video is that you not only show the process, but you also give a very good explanation of why you are doing it and what the consequences of incorrect profile are. Thank you for a very informative video.
‘I also prefer to pull with my right hand’ 😂
Seriously not enough Aussies watch your channel, they would have jumped all over that statement.
Great video, best sharpening video I have seen yet 👍🏻
That's one sharp chain, great filling 😊
Great explanation and pointers👍🏻 even if one's been casually filing chain for years, it never hurts to hear some reminders!
Great job on keeping the video simple and to the point!👍👍
I believe the biggest issues for most folks when learning are dull files (if you don't see a pile of metal you are just stroking the air), not applying near enough pressure and not near enough strokes of the file.(3 or 4 gentle strokes may work on a touch up but dull/damaged chain will ALOT more) I have broken a sweat many a times digging in and getting one truly ready to cut!🤠
Thank you so much for this video. Chain sharpening is something I have been a bit timid to tackle but after watching this I feel like I can get started on it. Great detail and to the point.
Loved this 👍 appreciate you using simple terms to describe things far too many channels with go overboard explaining things then the viewer gets confused especially newer users, awesome job and she cut like butter.
Mr. Tinman once again you've put out a great video!! Easy to understand content and super good information. The demonstration on the wood shows people what to expect from a truly sharp chain!!! Kudos to you friend!
Thanks, Tinman. I really like your use of the truck box corner as a “vise”. I hadn’t thought of doing that. Old dog learns new trick.
He puts the bar cover on the tailgate of the truck to prevent the teeth from dulling while touching it but then jams the tip of the bar into the corner of the truck box.
Finally, a clear and detailed sharpening vid. Thank you.
Great video Tinman,this video brought back a lot of memories I can remember my Grandfather showing me how to do this on the back of his truck bed when I was 15 years old,everyone should watch this video to always have a sharp chain and one that cuts.
I hand filed all my saws. Usually in my vise. I bought plastic grips for the vise so I don't damage the bar. Use a Oregon guarge to .025 thou, then one full stroke on each raker so I likely end up at about .028 thou. The saws cut wicked good and never have a issue with skipping or being to sharp thus stalling out the saw. On another note got my 272xp in the wood today. Cut some 16" green ash. Man does it cut great. 20in Holzfforma bar with a full comp chain, new 266 muffler, new chain break, 234A tillotson carb,, new clutch (3C spring steel type) bearings, seals, cylinder, piston, deleted base gasket, new fuel line and filter, new oiler. My new favor saw...lol. I'll send you a video on email. Nice video as always. TC Mahalo Tinman🤙🤙🤙
Very good explanation! Many thanks for making chainsaw sharpening so clear and concise..
This is one of the best sharpening videos that I have seen. You and Buckin nailed it!
Enjoyed the video, done it wrong for years .... all the best from Arkansas!!!
thanks Mr. Tinman, I could never figure out where the file was exactly supposed to be and the close up with the camera helped answer that. You've helped me so much, thank you sir!
The stihl 2 in 1 tool actually works really well. Takes a minute to get used to but it files in half the time.
As for alternate sharpening spots- during the last ufc fight, i used a shipping box to hold the saw while i sharpened a few chains while in bed.
Great video Tinman. Heard about you many times watching Buckin - he must be a great friend to have. He speaks only great things about his friends, mentions you often. I like your work. Great job sir.
Thanks, Tinman. Solid reminders here
This was an excellent one Tinman!! You are right about a sharp chain making any saw much faster cutting and more enjoyable as well as you don't have to fight the saw. Keep the great content up and enjoy being a dad!!!!!
Great video Tinman! I purchased one of those Husky file guides about 3 years ago; piece of rubbish. The Stihl 2 -in-1 file guide is AWESOME! Love it but you've still got to check the gullet every now and then (no problemo). The Oregon grinder is too fast and removes too much of the tooth for my liking. The Granberg gadgets look pretty cool but I can't find them here in Australia so I've never had the chance to try one out.
A filing tutorial like no other,in short excellent workmanship 😊
I use a Oregon guide and dig the gullet out after the top is sharp ,when the cutter is worn down it gets the gullet with the guide by itself . Nice video !
Best video on chainsaw, blade sharpening very informative. Good video I’m impressed.
Thanks Tinman best sharpening tutorial ever.👍
Thank you thank you thank you. I've been waiting for a down to earth sharpening video. God bless sir.
It is cool seeing you sharpen with the same tools I do that little roller guide does work good if you hand file the chain first and get the gullet then use the roller gadget to get the top plate razor sharp and at the rite angle I stopped using mine though practice and a good teacher thanks bucken
THANK YOU! My saw has been stalling, when dogged in. Been keeping the rakers higher, but I didn't know that about the "C". Gonna play around with this. Great video
Thanks for the vid.
Soooooooo much better by hand. I tossed my electric bench sharpener now.
Nice detail on the video. Love the 44's. I still grind to prefered angles then hit each tooth to finish things off. Good stuff tinman. Thank you
But you cant file a tooth that's been grinded?
Thank you for your time Tinman. Much appreciated brother. Wooooohooooooo heck yeah buddy she's sharp. Nice work. 🌲❤️🌲👊🪓
Really good sharpening video Tinman. Love your videos
Nice Vid, tinman! I only handfiled all my life, but for the .404 rippinchains I now prefere to grab a grinder. They dull after every 3rd or 4th slap of oak (if you don't hit anything) and it gets a real pain in the a** to handfile them in the evening. For bucking and felling i use square ground chains and the are only handfiled (that grinder costs way to much and I like that filing - and want to train myself to get the filing to perfection).
Best wishes to your wife an baby. Hope you're all doing well! Stay safe and secure!
Excellent video, short and to the point, thanks very much.
Tinman, you and Buckin have done the best hand filing videos out there. I have found that since I adjusted my way of filing, my cutting experience has dramatically improved. The art of “knowing how to do stuff “ is dying slowly. Humanity has become a “disposable product consumer “ over the course of time. The big box stores power equipment is “Meh” and it has no longevity, thanks to folks mixing their own gas with ethanol mixed in. I quit running anything with ethanol in any of my 2 strokes. Have you thought about maybe doing a series on running 2 identical saws, running 40:1 in one and 50:1 in the other for a period of time and pulling the top ends off and checking ring wear, etc. I personally run 40:1 in all my saws and weed eating equipment. Thanks for all the info that you give out. Much love to you from NC🤙🤙
You’re a great teacher!
Great video Tinman. I like to hand file as well. Good therapy. 👍🏻
I am going to share this on my channel videos.
Thank you man , your explain was perfect 🖐️👌🙏👍⚙️🪚🌻🌸
Awesome job thank you tin man very good demonstration
Vielen Dank für das Video! Mit dieser im Video gezeigten Methode habe ich es nie hinbekommen. Da ich selbst nicht viel Holz mache habe ich auch nicht viele Ketten zum schleifen gehabt. Vor etwa 2 Jahren habe ich das 2 in 1 Schleifgerät von Stihl/Pferd (2 in 1 Chainsharpener) für mich entdeckt. Seitdem bekomme ich als ungeübter Kettenschleifer meine Ketten immer superscharf hin. Tiefenbegrenzer und Zahn werden gleichzeitig und in den richtigen Winkeln automatisch gefeilt. Die Form der Feile und die abgebildeten Grafiken ist es für jeden Laien/Profi sehr einfach scharfe Ketten zu feilen.
excellent description!! very helpful
Great stuff. I love your emphasis on smooth cutting.
I fix saws for a firm as part of my living and I see a lot of very blunt/damaged chains and chains with incorrect angles and gullets. This means that the operators are working much harder than they need to, are damaging bars (and saws) and exposing themselves to more risk than is necessary. When felling, it is harder to get accurate cuts with a blunt chain. Misplaced cuts make it more likely that your fell will go wrong. Running with a blunt chain gives the temptation to push on the saw or swing it on the dogs to force it to cut. When you're doing this you are gripping the saw harder which increases the effects of vibration on hands and arms. If your depth gauges are high, the same temptation applies. If your gullets are too deep (and depth gauges too low) you get more vibration and you have to hang on to the saw harder.
Why am I getting excited about 'smooth cutting' and low vibes? 'Cos vibes cause tissue and nerve damage. Prolonged exposure to high levels of vibes causes carpal tunnel syndrome and/or Reynaud's syndrome (also known as vibration whitefinger or Hand Arm Vibration Syndrome). There is a painful and damned inconvenient operation to fix the first, but as the second is nerve damage and nerves don't regenerate, HAVS is yours for life, and it's life-changing. Happy days.
Love this post and the older one.
It surprises me how many tree guys don't realize this or care. I custom file my chains so they perform much better than new, and when they are slightly duller than a new chain, its time to kiss it with a file.
Too many tree guys don't understand that it costs you less time to keep up on a chain than wait till the teeth lost shape before sharpening.
@@nate2838 Yeah, me too! A lot of foremen and company owners don't seem to care either. They foster a culture of 'make the effort, get the job done'. But stopping at convenient points in the work for little, short breaks and a tickle on the saw chain keeps you fresh. It also speeds up the work in the long run 'cos as well as your cuts all taking less time and effort, while you 'tickle' and take on a drink of water, you can be thinking through the next fell or the route the forwarder is going to take to uplift your bunched product. You can direct your next fells so you can be efficient and economical on effort of doing the bunching.
Keep your little breakies short and the foreman doesn't notice the same as he would for a longer sharpen. The boss doesn't notice, ditto, even if he (usually 'he') is on site. This is the same boss that has collated all the saw vibration stats, done the risk assessments and put them in the job pack and method statement and supplied them to the client. He is bound by them but usually is far more interested in 'more effort' than what they actually mean.
@@anemone104 Well said.
Excellent video
Thanks for the lesson. Nice work.
Thannks you answered every question I wanted to ask. Including the hows and whys.
Hey bud, just started watching your channel. For a long time I kept listening to Buckin and he kept talking about Tinman. One time he said you should go to Tinmans channel and see what he’s about. So I have listened to 6 or so videos. I enjoy your videos and have picked up some things, so thank you and keep sharing your knowledge.
Awesome video. Nice saw there ! I've seen you run the big ones for so long, you make the 44 look tiny. Keep em coming friend.
I do mine the same way having a sharp chain definitely make work easier great video
Man, this came into my YT feed and I am given a thumbs up 👍 on this video just for that man's t-shirt 👍
Awesome video Tinman!
Dang it your going to make me sharpen my old chains as well as buying a couple new ones for next weekend. I have a big oak to drop and cleanup. I want good sharp chains for this.
The tree needs to go between a shed and power line and not hit the neighbors house. It has just a bit of canopy weight on the backside but it’s perfectly square to the fall line so I’m confident I can do it. If there was nothing around I feel like I could do it free hand so adding a winch line and using wedges as insurance I’m fairly confident in the drop, and my insurance 😂😂😂. I’ll charge $1 to make it business to make it covered without question. I initially spent 10 minutes looking at it thinking a climber was needed until I saw the line. The lightbulb went on, and I said I’ll do it if the neighbor gives written permission with a statement saying if the ground was disturbed it wouldn’t be considered damage.
Tinman you are sooo great!
New Subscriber Mr. Tinman! Great video and explanation on filing. Watching this and also Buckin Billy Ray have helped me out. Found your Channel when some firewood friends posted videos of you at Bunyan! Thanks again for the knowledge.
Very nice Tinman, good work 👏
Great video Tinman.
I see you change hands too. That’s how I do it as well. I think it’s the way everyone should learn. Definitely faster and only once around the chain.
Great video! Especially about the burr. I would have shown people the tooth slightly before the burr forms, looking from the front. You can usually see a little line across right below the top of the tooth. Some people don't realize how far you actually go to get to the top of the tooth. I like that you go heavy into it, to get the gullet back, and then lighten up when you are close to the top and making the final few strokes. And, you talked about too much hook a little, and not enough. You said have the file about 2/3 down, to get the correct C, and I think that is where experience on how hard and when to push down, lighten up a little, etc. comes in. You could have showed a little more on rakers. But, everyone figures that out pretty quick. I do them all from my strong side, and just angle the file a little more on the wrong side, so it doesn't chatter. I just got a crappy blue grinder, and I cannot get that thing to make me a decent chain. Yeah, it is a bit faster to sharpen - but then I need to go back and hand file all the chain again anyway ... so it actually takes almost twice as long.
Best sharing demo I've see thank you
The one video I was looking for
This is super useful. Thanks tinman
Hey Tinman. This is Old School.
How about showing square grinding?
Or maybe the new Stihl hexa filing system.
Love your work Big Guy.
Good technique buddy thank u for sharing. Hope all is well
I love those Husqvarna filing kits , the handle is perfect and I love the guide , I go both by eye and with those roller guides , I'm getting close to not needing the guide anymore but I still use it to double check myself , it will be nice when I get to where I don't need it anymore but I will always carry it to use as a teaching tool if nothing else , great video tinman , one of these days I want to get a tinman special I have a 372xp(xtorque that I would like to convert to an oe) that I'd like to send you to work your magic on and then further down the line a 2188 Jred , 390xp 394xp 395xp , I also have some 200 series huskies that were left to me out by uncle along with the afore mentioned 372xp (I also have a Jred 2172 which I love dearly as it is. all the xps had been out of use for a couple years before they came my way and they could all use a little tlc and refreshing, and there's only a select few people who I'd feel confident in sending them off to , you , Charlie brisco, iron horse, and walker are my top choices but I'm still happy with how they run as they are aka I haven't felt the need for more power out of them yet
I find the filing guide for the x-cut chains are perfect. I find they cut the gullet out just fine. The only thing I don't like, they don't work on the stihl chain.
@@markatkinson9963 why dont they work on stihl chain?
I love those Husqvarna filing kits as well.
My 545 cuts like a banshee especially when the rakers are filled to spec.
The kit is recommended by Husqvarna in the owners manual so that alone sold me.
If there is anything an aspiring saw wrench or porter should learn first, it's THIS, in my opiniom. If the chain ain't sharp, you're on the fast track to failure.
Thank you for dumbing it up. Don't take offense to me saying this. I watched 3 or 4 other videos and didn't understand what they were talking about. You helped me understand.
Thank you.
Really, I'd buy you a couple rounds if I were close.
Thanks again
@@shakeyjake9813I wish you the best, brother. Get those chains SHARP and learn how to recognize when they are going dull and learn how different sharpening angles do with different types of wood. It's a big deal.
Good Video Tinman, that 44 is an old 🪚 Saw,. I got one, also 266XP early 80s, My Favorite, Gen. 1, 55Rancher, 372XP , before X Torqued it.
@tinman
long time watcher! , what do I do if my chain has a big hook from using the wrong size file for this chain until I bought the right one. I have a huge hook on my oregan skip tooth. Should I just replace it? It cuts like a banshee like you said but dulls super fast in the hard wood im cutting.
I'm hearing ya tinman, I'm getting what your putting down mate!
I like the file guide for the x-cut chain. It doesn't work for the stihl chains though.keeps you on track to keep that edge.
I always wanted a friend... Which is why I watch your videos 😊
Nice job on sharpening video.
Thank you sir I am happy your watching videos I am Bengali right now very very thank god is play
Use the little husky flat steel raker guage with hard, thicker side and the soft thinner side so you can take a little more of your drags down . I'm thinking about trying the hard side more because I have lots of hard wood. Lot of popular also. Yeah, huskys rakerp plate is fire but that 1 u have looks pretty cool
Great job keep up the good work
Thanks man, cause before I saw this I would have been like Eddie Murphy trying to change brakes on his Lear Jet.
Nice explanation!
Nice explanation. Thanks
I've found Oregon 73 chain comes set up for hardwood. Most of my cutting here is softwood (Pinus Radiata, Radiata pine, through your probably know it as Monterey pine) through depending on what the wind blows down I can do a lot of hardwood (New Zealand Red Beech and Kanuka).
So first thing out of the box onto the bar is to hit the rakers to take a bigger bite.
It's not worth having different chains for different woods, I just put up with grabby chains when doing hardwood and good cutting in softwood.
I have to admit tho, I'd like to get the parts saws fixed and run a softwood saw and a hardwood saw. Identical 120si Dolmars with differently set up chains.
It also looks like you're using 4.8mm file on .325? Why not 4mm? That's what I use on the 52cc 111 Dolmar. The 4.8mm gets used on the 3/8 chain.
When I saw the thumbnail and title I thought this was a Buckin video!
Tin man you are awesome I love your work.
I hope someday soon I can send you a saw to build for me.
Take care buddy and be kind
Nice well explained
nice one Tin 👍💯
Oh, and I like to watch the shavings from the file, right before you get to the top of the tooth straight across, you can see them forming right above the file contact point, and the burr usually comes the next stroke or 2.
Good video !!!!
I sharpen just like that when I'm not at my vice, bar stuffed into the corner of my pickup bed. I use those same files and just the raker gauge not the roller thing. One more thing on those file handles it has the a 25 and 30° side the 30° side lines up with the line on the chain so if you just push the file all the way to the bar it helps you keep a consistent angle. I don't push it right to the handle every stroke but just to keep it in check.
I've tried every gadget out there ,but am back to regular old filing now,thanks to watching Buckin.
Great video man! I'm sharpening a .325 chain with 3/16 file and I'm cutting into straps just above rivets. Not sure if it's a husqvarna thing or not but seems like chain would get compromised
Great Job
Good information to know. Thanks
Love u sharpening skills
Thanks
after watching buckins videos a have learn to file the chain very charp.
Trimah kasih penjelasannya,sangat lengkap dan bermanfaat,salam Indonesia hadir
Good stuff. Very interesting seeing the results of "wrong file, too big" and how to correct it. Have you experimented with "the wrong file that's too small"? Like a 5/32 instead of the 3/16? I think Buckin did that as an experiment, could be interesting.
Hope all is good with the new "little tinman" ( or would that be Tinman Jr?) and your wife.
While the tip up vs down is very important with the correct file, its absolutely critical with the wrong file. Too big? Tip down to get under the tip of the tooth. Too small? Tip up to cut the corner instead of undercutting the tooth.
Its also helpful to start with a downward angle to develop a seat for your file on the inside (opposite the cutting corner) corner to use for stability while sharpening with a different curve than it already has. This also works great when the saw is damaged, and is essentially the boat stroke.
Im glad I been a logger all my life I can sharpen a enbred chain a mean chain
Well done 👍
Thank You 😊
You file just like me. But I one hand both sides. I was tired of finding something the right height to put my tip against, and my tailgate isn't always in the shade. Bsafe bud
How do I go about having you build me a custom saw?
Thank you
I need to work on my ambidextrous filing. I'm still doing each side individually.
You helped me a lot…My question is does it matter what size file you use to sharpen your chain?
I knew when I finally started getting my filing correct because all of a sudden I put the bar in some wood and without putting any pressure on the bar and chain it was eating into the wood itself. Pulling itself into the wood.