Having done this job many times, the approach of spread the knuckle from top, bottom, then leave in place followed by compressing strut ever slightly is probably the safest way to perform the '2x4' method. Great work guys!
the drop link top nut is a real swine to remove as it seizes up real easy and needs an 18mm spanner and a M6 Spline Bit 12 Point to keep it from spinning. Make sure you tighten it up correctly too as it will put out loud clucking if slightly loose!! Useful video here so thanks for the upload
Nice clear instructions! I had already done this same exact job about two years ago and the steps are spot on. It took me a while to figure out that I had to move the spreader incrementally. This video would have helped me. 😄
Marcus MS whilst I haven’t done this myself I believe the answer is yes. Much better/cleaner option than removing drive shaft. I am experiencing low speed squeaking on my Mk7 gti and believe it is strut top bearing. I’ll be doing this in order to replace.
Ive done this method a lot without the hole works great. Just gotta be careful go slow and make sure nothing is going to pop out and wear safety glasses lol. What's the distance from the top of the board to the center of the bolt hole?
So the LCA is enough support for the knuckle once you lift the strut up and out? Any issue with the axle getting bent down like it does when you do the first part and the knuckle drops down a few inches? Looks like that boot gets bent up quiet a bit
For the MK7, MK7.5 Golf R - the front DCC struts have a part number of 5Q0-413-031-ED. Same part number for left and right side. I don't have the part number for the DCC rear shocks handy.. Do note that Bilstein sells aftermarket DCC struts and shocks as well (Fronts) B6 Performance Damptronic - Suspension Strut Asembly - #23-254343 or B4 OE Replacement Damptronic - Suspension Strut Assembly - #23-238978 (Rears) B6 Performance Damptronic - Shock Absorber - #20-254353 or B4 OE Replacement Damptronic - Shock Absorver - #20-238988
the one I'm using it's not a 2x4.. But it's WALNUT with the following dimensions.. .75 Inch X 1.5 inch X 24 inches. The hole is 1 and 5/8 inches from the top. Walnut is a hardwood, plenty strong - purchased it from my local home depot.
Calvin K - the rear is easy, no 2x4 or anything like that needed. It’s just two bolts, leveler arm, then swing the arm down ( springs pretty much drops)
Having done this job many times, the approach of spread the knuckle from top, bottom, then leave in place followed by compressing strut ever slightly is probably the safest way to perform the '2x4' method. Great work guys!
Seriously thank you! This look the best way to removing the strut without removing the axle.
the drop link top nut is a real swine to remove as it seizes up real easy and needs an 18mm spanner and a M6 Spline Bit 12 Point to keep it from spinning. Make sure you tighten it up correctly too as it will put out loud clucking if slightly loose!! Useful video here so thanks for the upload
Great explanation of when to introduce the 2x4 that other vids have missed.
Excellent video. I wasn't 100% clear on using the 2x4 but now understand -- thank you!
Very clear and easy to follow. I'm no longer afraid of doing my coilover install! :) Thank you!
This is the best video i have seen of this job yet thank you
Nice clear instructions! I had already done this same exact job about two years ago and the steps are spot on. It took me a while to figure out that I had to move the spreader incrementally. This video would have helped me. 😄
This is a great video. Thanks for taking the time.
The lack of rust is orgasmic!
You deserve a Nobel prize
Best video out there, I’m still so very notice. Do you guys know how long it takes for springs to settle? My tears still look the same
Nice video. For front suspension, some suggest to remove unbolting the inner drive axle. The 2x4 method eliminated this step?
Marcus MS whilst I haven’t done this myself I believe the answer is yes. Much better/cleaner option than removing drive shaft.
I am experiencing low speed squeaking on my Mk7 gti and believe it is strut top bearing. I’ll be doing this in order to replace.
so I guess you could remove top centre bolt when strut is compressed like that ?
Is reinstalling the strut with this method possible? Things to look out for ? Really great explanation and video !
Ive done this method a lot without the hole works great. Just gotta be careful go slow and make sure nothing is going to pop out and wear safety glasses lol. What's the distance from the top of the board to the center of the bolt hole?
So the LCA is enough support for the knuckle once you lift the strut up and out? Any issue with the axle getting bent down like it does when you do the first part and the knuckle drops down a few inches? Looks like that boot gets bent up quiet a bit
The boot is fine. Both sides of the axle are meant to twist and turn in the joints on the axle shaft. The boot is meant to do the same.
Excellent video thank you!
You never mentioned bolting the 2x2 to the sway bracket and it is not shown- out of frame. Important detail.
Thanks for this explaination.. with this method did we need a wheel alignment? Thanks
It's always best to get it aligned after messing with the suspension.
You always need an alignment after suspension height or arm modifications
excellent your living way on years 2040
Eh cambiado los muelles en mi gti con suspension dcc los muelles son de 35mm al circular me sale fallo de suspensión me podría ayudar ?
Is the Golf R spring DIY a complete hassle or is it better to have a shop install for close to $500 ?
Very informative! Thank you
Holy shit bro you are the man!!
What size is the pinch bolt bit that you used to fit inside of it while you wrenched the other side
Did u do the basic setting for the level control system and headlights, or was it ok
Yes, with OBDEleven as I lowered the car
The spread tool where can I get that one you have?
The one I used was the METALNERD #MN3424 Strut Spreader Bit. There are other brands as well.
@Hector I made one out of a wheel bolt and used a bench grinder
is the 2x4 method so you don't have to loosen the inner axle? or would you still have to loosen that?
What’s the part number for the oem dcc strut for the golf R?
For the MK7, MK7.5 Golf R - the front DCC struts have a part number of 5Q0-413-031-ED.
Same part number for left and right side. I don't have the part number for the DCC rear shocks handy..
Do note that Bilstein sells aftermarket DCC struts and shocks as well
(Fronts) B6 Performance Damptronic - Suspension Strut Asembly - #23-254343
or B4 OE Replacement Damptronic - Suspension Strut Assembly - #23-238978
(Rears) B6 Performance Damptronic - Shock Absorber - #20-254353
or B4 OE Replacement Damptronic - Shock Absorver - #20-238988
awesome video, was that wd 40 that you're using?
pretty much any lubricant will work
awesome!
How long is the 2x4?
the one I'm using it's not a 2x4..
But it's WALNUT with the following dimensions..
.75 Inch X 1.5 inch X 24 inches.
The hole is 1 and 5/8 inches from the top.
Walnut is a hardwood, plenty strong - purchased it from my local home depot.
Did you use the 2x4 method to out the strut back in also?
Calvin K - the rear is easy, no 2x4 or anything like that needed. It’s just two bolts, leveler arm, then swing the arm down ( springs pretty much drops)
if you go with lower springs you shouldnt need it , but even if it needs a little jacking it easy to do in the reverse order.
First guy I’ve seen use the jack trick. Everyone else takes the driveshaft out 🤦♂️
it takes 10 mins to do it properly
Not so easy putting it back in, even with shorter struts and lowering springs.
why couldn't you just reverse the process and use the 2x4 to lift the new shock/spring combo high enough to seat it?
Because it spins the shock every time you lift it so close to impossible to put it back
Are you able to screw to top 3 screws to hold the top plate in place while using the 2x4 method to put the struts back in ?