I have been dealing with a very similar knock over rough road surface on my 8v S3 saloon, very metallic noise when you had the windows open. Had the front shocks replaced today and finally bliss.. Thankfully covered through the warranty I took out on the car, £411 each for the mag ride front shocks!. Car only done 25k miles.
I don't feel so bad for replacing mine seeing as it fixed your similar rattle. Pretty convinced it's the pads loose in the calipers so changing those soon (over a year after the video as it only makes the rattle in warm weather, presumably when calliper expands a bit with ambient heat but pads don't).
Going to have to do this to my 7GTI pp as it sound like an angry gerbil in my glove box when I turn steering even remotely to the right over undulations. Tried the ARB bushes and drop link 1st as they are cheaper and easy enough to do. Great tip on the piece of wood technique. Pity it didn’t sort it for you. Will the warranty cover the shock. I asked about the top mount as mine has 2 year Das Auto warranty and was told it’s was a wear item therefore not covered.
Just went through the same procedure on a skoda octavia, same suspension, it also knocked afterwards, so once car was back on the ground, we retightened top absorber nut, no further problems, and suspension very quiet
Had the same problem when I had my 2018 GTI PP, used to drive me nuts, started doing it when the car was 4 months old, started searching for an answer on forums and it seemed to be a quite common problem on any VW really, not just Golfs. Anyway, after much research, it was concluded that the shocks were at fault, but a lot of people that had the shocks replaced under warranty by VW, had the same problem after a couple of months, so the problem lies with the OEM VW shocks they use, if you change to the Bilstein or Koni equivalent, the problem disappears, on DCC cars I think you would need the B4 Damptronic which are about half the price of the OEM ones, but wouldn't be able to be done under warranty, you would have to fork out from your own pocket but at least you know the problem would be gone for good! Oh, and congratulations on 50K💪
Great 'special WOOD tool' tip for viewers👍. When removing McPherson struts on my driveway I personally use a length of metal box section with a hole drilled in one end to bolt it to the drop link bracket. I find its not as cumbersome as a block of 2x4 and so it fits better in tight spaces. I recently had a very similar knock/rattle that sounded just like failed drop links but they were fairly new. After lots of investigating i found the knock / rattle to be the chrome stanchions having slight play/movement in the shock body causing a rattle - it was just about detectable moving them by hand when removed from the car. Now Subscribed 👍
all the ptoblem is that the strut bearing is plastic and placed under angle. So due to this angle, the pressure from the spring is not even to the bearing, causing it to crack, and then the noise is coming. I placed Bilstein B6 shockabsorbers on my passat B8 and got the cracking noise. Then Bilstein advised when mounting the strut bearing to allign the notch from the strut bearing and the bushing with the upper end of the spring. So the spring end is applying pressure on the thickest part of the strut bearing. I will try it to see if working.
I'm halfway through this. Little tip- When turning the spreader it will bite into the sides a bit so you may not get a full spread. If so put a thin steal shim one side then turn it. You now get a good spread, it will come out very easily. Don't let the drive shaft hang under its own weight or the joint will be damaged- Support it with a scissor jack. Jacking up the strut can lift the car clean off a jack stand so get someone to keep an eye on it. Buy new top mount bolts. Time for a tea.
Hi Volts. I honestly can’t thank you enough, especially with the clearest, explanation and visual on how the top mounts are aligned, & fitted correctly……..! you are the only person on the whole of UA-cam that explains this clearly, believe me I’ve watched over 100 videos looking for extreme clarity, and your sir did this in your A+video. No time lapses just plain clear explanation & best if all visual showing it. Thanks for your time doing this whole shocker removal & fitting. 🥇👍👍
Glad I could help! TBH I was pushing my abilities trying to do this job and film it properly so very pleased it could prove so helpful. I've since fitted new shocks to my GTD Estate and I'd probably just strip it down in the traditional way rather than with wood as the wood couldn't take the pressure of the new dampers and with it all apart it's not easy to loosen the driveshaft nut and try and do the proper process. I guess you could use better wood :)
@@volkswizard yes it really helps, you’ve no idea how many videos I’ve watched from all angles how to work out how these top mounts are fitted correctly, I originally thought the arrows were to be fitted to the outer side of the car (front to back) but top holes won’t fit that way, your video proves that arrows should be fitted to the inner side. The wood looks a good idea but it’s not something I’d use.
It could be that the struts from the Clubsport have different rubber density in comparison with a normal Golf. I would confirm it checking the OEM reference needed for the Clubsport with one from a normal GOLF. Some times OE manufacturers just have one reference.
Great tip re wood, I did a mk5 and took the hub bolt out etc, then ended up with a very floppy heavy hub - wished I’d known this but will for next time.
I have a 2016 seat leon with this exact same problem,changed everything on the n/s ...shock,top mount, bottom ball joint,track rod ends,droplinks ..still there...only other thing now to replace is the anti roll bar bushings..only ever hear this rattle at low speed on bad roads (which there are plenty of) ..pain in theeee arse😮
Hi Andrew, just had chance to listen to the noise on your video, I wouldn’t be surprised if that is in fact the infamous fuel line rattle! give it a quick google if you don’t know about it already, another less likely possibility is the track rod ends, hopefully not the shock though being DCC, also worth checking that the doors check strap is bolted tight to the door jam, my mk7 had a rattle that I couldn’t locate for ages, which turned out to be just that very issue.
TBH most of the coilover cars I've driven have had even worse rattles! I'd put up with that for a track car but this car has been setup to work on the road which where I use it most and it's genuinely hard to improve upon - APART FROM STOPPING THE BLOODY RATTLE :)
My Mk3 cupra also suffered from squeaking / rattling sound. So far 80k km changed too mounts, drop links, dcc suspension , lower control arms. Now having sound from top mount bearings 🤷♂️
One of my family members bought a golf r 7.5 quite new at the time and took me out in it and his front suspension creaked over speed bumps at the time i had 2014 leon and it did the exact same thing
Vehicle noises can be deceptive. A shock can travel through the chassis. I think its best to take the car to a professional first to be sure where its coming from before doing any work and buying of parts. Great vid though very helpful and thorough.
I would be surprised if warranty covers the shock. I have adaptive on my Skoda superb and when they go the folks on briskoda recommend Bilstein b6 damptronic
I had a similar noise and it turned out to be the front drop links (even though they’d been changed 30k previously) swapped them for a pair of Meyle HD knock gone… then a few weeks later it reappeared but.. the bottom nut just needed retightening! The Meyle HD ones are far more substantial looking than OEM and pretty cheap and quick to change. Although yours looked pretty shiney? Are the DCC shocks branded Monroe? Maybe they can recondition them cheaper?
Drop links were my first port of call so they are new so. An rule them out. The shocks are indeed Monroe, they aren’t too bad from VW and even less from Autodoc but unsure of the CSS ones are unique, they have part number ending in ED so easy enough to work it out👍
Very informative video Andrew. I still have original shocks and Springs on my 2008 MkV. At 92,000kms not miles I wonder if I should leave well enough alone or get them checked. Original brake pads and disks also. These have been looked at. Cheers.
Hi, did you solved the knocking problem yet? I have a similar problem, but i see you changing the top mounts and you still have the problem, so im gonna hold off with my car, please do a follow up....
I've changed Top mounts Struts Droplinks Balljoints Disconnected ARB Tightened up CSS rear brace bar Checked all front end bolts Check scuttle for loose bits and nothing And zero difference The key with mine is that it has separate left and right rattles that will rattle based on which wheels hit the bumps, can be both at same time too
@@volkswizardhad this on my mk7 golf r dcc. Drove me crazy. Like you I changed everything including new dcc shocks. Noise still there. When I unplugged the dcc module and the shocks run in fail safe mode like a normal shock the noises are completely gone. I think its just a feature of dcc shocks of that model. Drove me nuts, ended up installing non dcc oem goof r shocks on the car and couldn’t be happier.
Cheers Andrew, thorough process and well explained. I bet you miss your ramp! Congratulations on the 50k subs, and funnily enough the first advert for me was a VW one for the golf lol
Hi Andrew. Had a similar noise on our Golf and put it down to the top mounts, as it’s fairly common. Turns out the previous owner had already had those replaced though. The knock was actually coming from the rear bush on the lower control arm. It was fitted incorrectly, with the voids in the wrong orientation (side-side / front-back). Might be worth a look and compare to another mk7. Ours was just one side so obvious once spotted.
I watched the whole video even though I’ve no intention of undertaking that work and don’t have the ratttles 🤞 After watching you meticulously explain and carry out the job I fully expected the noise to be gone, I was almost as gutted as you were, couldn’t believe it especially as you’d found significant play in the original. Great video though, well done and good luck at the ring (you’ve most likely got this in hand but correct tyre choice is essential for the ring)
Thanks Bob K! The mistake with the top mount bearing was to ignore the fact they were under quite a lot of pressure, both from the spring and also the weight of the car on the spring so there was little chance of them actually rattling. Not sure why there was that play, I've now fitted new VW parts and like the Febis, they didn't have any play either so probably good they've been binned but it would have been too easy for it to sort the rattle :)
17 or 18 inch wheels on a sub £70,000 car i.e. (Non Porsche, Ferrari etc. are maximum/optimum for UK roads. The advent of the 19 incher on an everyday car is pushing it.
I've just done my 152k 2012 mk6 GTD. New anti roll bar links, new Sachs shockers, top mounts, bumpstops, balljoints and wishbones. I had the same rattle, anti roll bar links reduced it but the rest of the list eliminated it. The rattle wouldn't occur on carriageways but on more undulating roads. You could feel the wishbone bushes were tired when under load on a corner, and replacing them has made a massive difference.
Great video great wood tip! Just wondered if you know the brand of spring compressor you have? Looks much less dangerous than ones I’ve used before 👍 btw my mk7 gti pp has always creaked turning into driveways etc... not the same knock but still not great at 30k miles when I got it.
Mk7 and Mk8 aren't great for noises, the rear noises on Mk7 are very well documented. I've got the box for the compressors but unfortunately they aren't branded, they come with 2 small semi-circular plates for smaller springs (like rear of Mk2 Golf) but never used them. I've got the dangerous ones too but only use them if I need to compress a spring on the car (which is a bad idea but sometimes gets you out of trouble). This looks similar but has 3 pairs of plates, I've only got 2. www.ebay.co.uk/itm/274996047235?hash=item40070aad83:g:BGYAAOSwaENj5cFw&amdata=enc%3AAQAIAAAAwGJxnPASbTv3DoSKNXIm7rhyozCQCFF7bynSZPNmdMxoQujIR1pI9za3rsnC1XJqt2PFjsVJ07FJ2v21%2F7YyH4F1gtgsWz5wpXRAtrtwrmFlpsDXmO7qLjIzrogKJCmOGD%2Fqc5SP5HVYOHXwz0RW%2BGlyswSiW18Muf21I17WB6%2FH4WiIF%2FwTWR1ocKpG0rV3R6fe5q%2FbM33J3PCLY3xpXuuRbEQm50gWTllfKXZYzv7N%2BDmdI2EE0BEppYHx%2FsMGbg%3D%3D%7Ctkp%3ABlBMUNTvrr2VYg
@@volkswizard thanks! Yes I just spotted these but wanted to make sure yours came separately in the kit too! Thanks Andrew great video and great response! I know how annoying the noises can be but you’ll be really please when they are fixed.
Hi Andrew great video do you think it’s worth upgrading the dampers to something like Bilstein B6 Damptronic as I just did this on my M140i and made a huge difference to the ride
ECS tuning do uprated top mounts for this platform, not sure how they are uprated exactly? But the standard top mounts are a recognised problem I had one changed on my RS3 recently, along with the Mag ride shock 😬 not cheap, i let someone else get their hands dirty at Audi main dealer 😂 couldn’t arsed fighting with spinning bolts and such like I can change a complete suspension kit on a mk1 mk2 or Corrado or a mk3 in less than a couple of hours
I had the most annoying (driving me mad) buzz in my car, it was clearly coming from the door and I was building up the courage to remove the door panel to look for it. Then in a moment of inspiration I traced it ti the electric window switches. The solution, a judicious squirt if dry PTFE spray. I couldn't believe the difference, sanity restored !
I bent the sill on my Mk5 R32 jacking it up to do the exhaust. Not from jacking it up, but from sitting the sill onto a stand for support. Andrew, can you show us the places you sit jack stands on the front and rear of a VW in general, just so I don't do that again?
Let's just say...... Your woodworking skills are advanced professional v my mechanical skills, Andrew. Bummer of an outcome indeed. Out of interest, how long do you estimate that job, both sides took (ignoring the fiddly filming chores)?
I’ve done it again and one side is a about an hour, offside is a bit harder. Easy with 2 as you have someone to hold shock while you bolt it into chassis at the top mount. Easier too with a proper spreader tool👍
That’s cars for you, occasionally you get one that defies all logic. It’s actually amazing fewer cars have such rattles that are hard to pin down even for someone who’s very familiar with them. We’ll get there one day I hope 🤞
Had the same knock and creek on my Golf apparently it’s a known problem but Vw will deny it .After a weekend detailing and getting it looking mint . I took it to Stourbridge VW and guess what the W⚓️s Did sprayed grease everywhere . Wouldn’t trust them with a skate board.
Read on forums Anti Roll Bar D Rubber bushes grip the bar too tightly hence the creak/knock/rattle. Tried white lithium grease on my GTI but hard to get into the joint 🤷♂️
I did say ARB first as it sounds like Mk4 rattle but APS said this doesn’t mess up on Mk7 and from what I can see they can be replaced separately.and subframe needs to come down to get bar off. Checked the 13mm bolts and all tight
That’s cheap! VW want £364 for the pair with a hefty trade discount which I thought was cheap but you know me, Monroe is the same as genuine, just depends I how rare the CSS versions are as might be VW only
@@volkswizard It is cheap, I think seat wanted around 260 each. And I have heard they are the same dampers but different branding. I would look at bilsteins 😊
Thanks Leigh. I’d like to offer some suggestions but I’m a bit out of ideas. Have checked all front suspension and subframe bolts, front bumper and arch liners off too and scuttle cover but nothing
Hi. Feel as disappointed as you for it not solving the issue. Could you explain the ‘famous’ creaking from 7 / 7.5 steering / suspension at some time. Is this issue related? My (now sold) Mk7.5 went through a period of being really noticeable. Especially during last years hot weather and was a low mileage, not often used car.
Hi ya I've followed from the start brilliant as usual Can't understand why you didn't put Eibach lowering springs on I put them on a 1 year old Edition 30 Bloody hell what a difference Very comfortable but brilliant cornering Tim
Thanks Tim! The Clubsport S is a bit special as its chassis was developed far more intensively than that of a typical GTI by a very respected ex-Porsche engineer and is a perfect balance of ride and handling for the road and works on track too. So there's not a lot of real world improvement to be had. Yes it would look good a bit lower but any decrease in compliance will make it a slower car on a british B road and that's where it currently excels. It's already a 5 star car according to evo magazine, any modifications could easily send that score backwards (though probably not as far as Mk8 Golf R's 3 stars..)
@@volkswizard if I'm right maybe you can solve my 1.9 tdi 105 bhp issue...limp mode at 60mph...tried maf and n75 valve...thinking its turbo....cheers sime
Ah that disappointment when you go for a test drive after replacing something and fault is still there 😥. VW top mounts peaked with the MK3 VR6 and have gone down hill ever since a car of your age and mileage should still be really good.
Just reading the comments really shows that VW has absolutely shocking build quality...few months old cars rattling with track focused suspension parts...would not touch any vw group car with my own cash...such a shame because the mk7 gti is apparently great to drive...
@volkswizard yeah i agree. I recently fitted some b14 coilovers a specialist wanted 400-500 fitted so I decided to fit myself while the weather has been nice. 😂
this is why are corntree need's to en-force engineering in are school classe's. now are brexit is did we have took back control of are education system. we can force peeps to build decent car's what are well engineered and dont need to confirm to the european safety standard's what are really quite restrective.
Sorry but Brexit has zero to do with the education curriculum and never did. Yes I agree EU safety standards and pollution regs do appear to be a campaign against motoring but let’s face it the U.K. was never much good and mass produced cars. Yes we had exceptions like low volume luxury models but they’ve all been sold off these days to Indians or Germans. The unions wrecked our engineering capability by making it uneconomic and uncompetitive
Thanks for posting! Used this method today to replace front springs on son's mk 7 Golf!
Glad it helped :)
I have been dealing with a very similar knock over rough road surface on my 8v S3 saloon, very metallic noise when you had the windows open. Had the front shocks replaced today and finally bliss.. Thankfully covered through the warranty I took out on the car, £411 each for the mag ride front shocks!. Car only done 25k miles.
I don't feel so bad for replacing mine seeing as it fixed your similar rattle. Pretty convinced it's the pads loose in the calipers so changing those soon (over a year after the video as it only makes the rattle in warm weather, presumably when calliper expands a bit with ambient heat but pads don't).
Going to have to do this to my 7GTI pp as it sound like an angry gerbil in my glove box when I turn steering even remotely to the right over undulations. Tried the ARB bushes and drop link 1st as they are cheaper and easy enough to do.
Great tip on the piece of wood technique. Pity it didn’t sort it for you. Will the warranty cover the shock. I asked about the top mount as mine has 2 year Das Auto warranty and was told it’s was a wear item therefore not covered.
Just went through the same procedure on a skoda octavia, same suspension, it also knocked afterwards, so once car was back on the ground, we retightened top absorber nut, no further problems, and suspension very quiet
👍
Had the same problem when I had my 2018 GTI PP, used to drive me nuts, started doing it when the car was 4 months old, started searching for an answer on forums and it seemed to be a quite common problem on any VW really, not just Golfs. Anyway, after much research, it was concluded that the shocks were at fault, but a lot of people that had the shocks replaced under warranty by VW, had the same problem after a couple of months, so the problem lies with the OEM VW shocks they use, if you change to the Bilstein or Koni equivalent, the problem disappears, on DCC cars I think you would need the B4 Damptronic which are about half the price of the OEM ones, but wouldn't be able to be done under warranty, you would have to fork out from your own pocket but at least you know the problem would be gone for good!
Oh, and congratulations on 50K💪
I put Bilstein B6 and the problem is still there. Bilstein advised when mounting the top mount notch to be alligned with the upper end of the spring.
Great 'special WOOD tool' tip for viewers👍.
When removing McPherson struts on my driveway I personally use a length of metal box section with a hole drilled in one end to bolt it to the drop link bracket. I find its not as cumbersome as a block of 2x4 and so it fits better in tight spaces.
I recently had a very similar knock/rattle that sounded just like failed drop links but they were fairly new. After lots of investigating i found the knock / rattle to be the chrome stanchions having slight play/movement in the shock body causing a rattle - it was just about detectable moving them by hand when removed from the car.
Now Subscribed 👍
all the ptoblem is that the strut bearing is plastic and placed under angle. So due to this angle, the pressure from the spring is not even to the bearing, causing it to crack, and then the noise is coming. I placed Bilstein B6 shockabsorbers on my passat B8 and got the cracking noise. Then Bilstein advised when mounting the strut bearing to allign the notch from the strut bearing and the bushing with the upper end of the spring. So the spring end is applying pressure on the thickest part of the strut bearing. I will try it to see if working.
I'm halfway through this. Little tip- When turning the spreader it will bite into the sides a bit so you may not get a full spread. If so put a thin steal shim one side then turn it. You now get a good spread, it will come out very easily. Don't let the drive shaft hang under its own weight or the joint will be damaged- Support it with a scissor jack. Jacking up the strut can lift the car clean off a jack stand so get someone to keep an eye on it. Buy new top mount bolts. Time for a tea.
Hi Volts. I honestly can’t thank you enough, especially with the clearest, explanation and visual on how the top mounts are aligned, & fitted correctly……..! you are the only person on the whole of UA-cam that explains this clearly, believe me I’ve watched over 100 videos looking for extreme clarity, and your sir did this in your A+video. No time lapses just plain clear explanation & best if all visual showing it. Thanks for your time doing this whole shocker removal & fitting. 🥇👍👍
Glad I could help! TBH I was pushing my abilities trying to do this job and film it properly so very pleased it could prove so helpful. I've since fitted new shocks to my GTD Estate and I'd probably just strip it down in the traditional way rather than with wood as the wood couldn't take the pressure of the new dampers and with it all apart it's not easy to loosen the driveshaft nut and try and do the proper process. I guess you could use better wood :)
@@volkswizard yes it really helps, you’ve no idea how many videos I’ve watched from all angles how to work out how these top mounts are fitted correctly, I originally thought the arrows were to be fitted to the outer side of the car (front to back) but top holes won’t fit that way, your video proves that arrows should be fitted to the inner side. The wood looks a good idea but it’s not something I’d use.
Bilstein advised me to allign the top mount notch with the upper end of the spring.
It could be that the struts from the Clubsport have different rubber density in comparison with a normal Golf. I would confirm it checking the OEM reference needed for the Clubsport with one from a normal GOLF. Some times OE manufacturers just have one reference.
Great tip re wood, I did a mk5 and took the hub bolt out etc, then ended up with a very floppy heavy hub - wished I’d known this but will for next time.
I have a 2016 seat leon with this exact same problem,changed everything on the n/s ...shock,top mount, bottom ball joint,track rod ends,droplinks ..still there...only other thing now to replace is the anti roll bar bushings..only ever hear this rattle at low speed on bad roads (which there are plenty of) ..pain in theeee arse😮
Hi Andrew, just had chance to listen to the noise on your video, I wouldn’t be surprised if that is in fact the infamous fuel line rattle! give it a quick google if you don’t know about it already, another less likely possibility is the track rod ends, hopefully not the shock though being DCC, also worth checking that the doors check strap is bolted tight to the door jam, my mk7 had a rattle that I couldn’t locate for ages, which turned out to be just that very issue.
Good time to maybe pick up a nice set of bilstein or kw coilovers, especially for track work..
TBH most of the coilover cars I've driven have had even worse rattles! I'd put up with that for a track car but this car has been setup to work on the road which where I use it most and it's genuinely hard to improve upon - APART FROM STOPPING THE BLOODY RATTLE :)
My Mk3 cupra also suffered from squeaking / rattling sound. So far 80k km changed too mounts, drop links, dcc suspension , lower control arms. Now having sound from top mount bearings 🤷♂️
I believe the trick is aligning correctly the position of the top mount notch with the upper end of the spring as advised by Bilstein.
One of my family members bought a golf r 7.5 quite new at the time and took me out in it and his front suspension creaked over speed bumps at the time i had 2014 leon and it did the exact same thing
Vehicle noises can be deceptive. A shock can travel through the chassis. I think its best to take the car to a professional first to be sure where its coming from before doing any work and buying of parts. Great vid though very helpful and thorough.
Just done both on my R following your excellent guide. It’s not fixed all my noises though, some but not all 😢😂
Glad to be of service. Currently my front callipers are most likely culprits but that would be too easy (new pads)
Hi Andrew you own the best golf ever your a lucky man !! Wish we got that spec here in Australia
We are a little bit unloved down under. Europe is a more important market. Plus price is an issue.
@@philipguacci6452 we do get something close but no bucket seats which are very important desired option
I would find someone who has a chassis ear to help pinpoint the noise before buying/replacing anymore parts
I would be surprised if warranty covers the shock. I have adaptive on my Skoda superb and when they go the folks on briskoda recommend Bilstein b6 damptronic
To my surprise shock absorbers are specifically covered with Warranty Wise Gold, not even their top level of cover
@@volkswizard I bet they change that policy after they get the bill for your shocks Ha
I had a similar noise and it turned out to be the front drop links (even though they’d been changed 30k previously) swapped them for a pair of Meyle HD knock gone… then a few weeks later it reappeared but.. the bottom nut just needed retightening! The Meyle HD ones are far more substantial looking than OEM and pretty cheap and quick to change. Although yours looked pretty shiney? Are the DCC shocks branded Monroe? Maybe they can recondition them cheaper?
Drop links were my first port of call so they are new so. An rule them out. The shocks are indeed Monroe, they aren’t too bad from VW and even less from Autodoc but unsure of the CSS ones are unique, they have part number ending in ED so easy enough to work it out👍
Very informative video Andrew. I still have original shocks and Springs on my 2008 MkV. At 92,000kms not miles I wonder if I should leave well enough alone or get them checked. Original brake pads and disks also. These have been looked at. Cheers.
Hi, did you solved the knocking problem yet? I have a similar problem, but i see you changing the top mounts and you still have the problem, so im gonna hold off with my car, please do a follow up....
I've changed
Top mounts
Struts
Droplinks
Balljoints
Disconnected ARB
Tightened up CSS rear brace bar
Checked all front end bolts
Check scuttle for loose bits and nothing
And zero difference
The key with mine is that it has separate left and right rattles that will rattle based on which wheels hit the bumps, can be both at same time too
@@volkswizardhad this on my mk7 golf r dcc. Drove me crazy. Like you I changed everything including new dcc shocks. Noise still there. When I unplugged the dcc module and the shocks run in fail safe mode like a normal shock the noises are completely gone. I think its just a feature of dcc shocks of that model. Drove me nuts, ended up installing non dcc oem goof r shocks on the car and couldn’t be happier.
@@grg88888might have to try that method. So you just unplugged the sensor ?
@@ThisisPrinceJ you could umplug the sensors on the shocks or take out the fuse for the dcc module. You will see the noise disappears.
Cheers Andrew, thorough process and well explained. I bet you miss your ramp! Congratulations on the 50k subs, and funnily enough the first advert for me was a VW one for the golf lol
Hi Andrew. Had a similar noise on our Golf and put it down to the top mounts, as it’s fairly common. Turns out the previous owner had already had those replaced though. The knock was actually coming from the rear bush on the lower control arm. It was fitted incorrectly, with the voids in the wrong orientation (side-side / front-back). Might be worth a look and compare to another mk7. Ours was just one side so obvious once spotted.
The 2 x 4 method is a nice easy way to remove the springs, just need to be careful.
I watched the whole video even though I’ve no intention of undertaking that work and don’t have the ratttles 🤞
After watching you meticulously explain and carry out the job I fully expected the noise to be gone, I was almost as gutted as you were, couldn’t believe it especially as you’d found significant play in the original.
Great video though, well done and good luck at the ring (you’ve most likely got this in hand but correct tyre choice is essential for the ring)
Thanks Bob K! The mistake with the top mount bearing was to ignore the fact they were under quite a lot of pressure, both from the spring and also the weight of the car on the spring so there was little chance of them actually rattling. Not sure why there was that play, I've now fitted new VW parts and like the Febis, they didn't have any play either so probably good they've been binned but it would have been too easy for it to sort the rattle :)
@@volkswizard looking forward to your next video 🤩
17 or 18 inch wheels on a sub £70,000 car i.e. (Non Porsche, Ferrari etc. are maximum/optimum for UK roads. The advent of the 19 incher on an everyday car is pushing it.
I've just done my 152k 2012 mk6 GTD. New anti roll bar links, new Sachs shockers, top mounts, bumpstops, balljoints and wishbones. I had the same rattle, anti roll bar links reduced it but the rest of the list eliminated it.
The rattle wouldn't occur on carriageways but on more undulating roads. You could feel the wishbone bushes were tired when under load on a corner, and replacing them has made a massive difference.
Great video great wood tip! Just wondered if you know the brand of spring compressor you have? Looks much less dangerous than ones I’ve used before 👍 btw my mk7 gti pp has always creaked turning into driveways etc... not the same knock but still not great at 30k miles when I got it.
Mk7 and Mk8 aren't great for noises, the rear noises on Mk7 are very well documented. I've got the box for the compressors but unfortunately they aren't branded, they come with 2 small semi-circular plates for smaller springs (like rear of Mk2 Golf) but never used them. I've got the dangerous ones too but only use them if I need to compress a spring on the car (which is a bad idea but sometimes gets you out of trouble).
This looks similar but has 3 pairs of plates, I've only got 2.
www.ebay.co.uk/itm/274996047235?hash=item40070aad83:g:BGYAAOSwaENj5cFw&amdata=enc%3AAQAIAAAAwGJxnPASbTv3DoSKNXIm7rhyozCQCFF7bynSZPNmdMxoQujIR1pI9za3rsnC1XJqt2PFjsVJ07FJ2v21%2F7YyH4F1gtgsWz5wpXRAtrtwrmFlpsDXmO7qLjIzrogKJCmOGD%2Fqc5SP5HVYOHXwz0RW%2BGlyswSiW18Muf21I17WB6%2FH4WiIF%2FwTWR1ocKpG0rV3R6fe5q%2FbM33J3PCLY3xpXuuRbEQm50gWTllfKXZYzv7N%2BDmdI2EE0BEppYHx%2FsMGbg%3D%3D%7Ctkp%3ABlBMUNTvrr2VYg
SykesPickavant make it - might have spelled wrong but you should be able to find them.
@@volkswizard thanks! Yes I just spotted these but wanted to make sure yours came separately in the kit too! Thanks Andrew great video and great response! I know how annoying the noises can be but you’ll be really please when they are fixed.
@@robc5955 thanks ! Yes I know the brand I’ve got their body shop tools! Great hammers and dollies btw
Hi Andrew great video do you think it’s worth upgrading the dampers to something like Bilstein B6 Damptronic as I just did this on my M140i and made a huge difference to the ride
ECS tuning do uprated top mounts for this platform, not sure how they are uprated exactly? But the standard top mounts are a recognised problem
I had one changed on my RS3 recently, along with the Mag ride shock 😬 not cheap, i let someone else get their hands dirty at Audi main dealer 😂 couldn’t arsed fighting with spinning bolts and such like
I can change a complete suspension kit on a mk1 mk2 or Corrado or a mk3 in less than a couple of hours
I had the most annoying (driving me mad) buzz in my car, it was clearly coming from the door and I was building up the courage to remove the door panel to look for it. Then in a moment of inspiration I traced it ti the electric window switches. The solution, a judicious squirt if dry PTFE spray. I couldn't believe the difference, sanity restored !
Do you miss your Golf 8 Clubsport ??
What was actual cause? I don't think it was the struts- not on that mileage. Bushes on lower arms?
Feels like some Racingline struts might on the wish list post-Ring?
@volkswizard Was there any update on this noise? Have you investigated any further? I have the same issue.
Great video, thanks for all the advice and content on the MK7 Golf (sure many people on here are very appreciative) 👍
Excellent video Andrew and a shame noise still there however I’m sure you’ll find the culprit albeit annoying issue on such a mint car 🤓
Great video like the idea you use the wooden batten saves time snd taking other parts off unnecessary
Thanks - though right now I think that ball joint is on borrowed time so it will have to get dismantled very soon after all!
I bent the sill on my Mk5 R32 jacking it up to do the exhaust. Not from jacking it up, but from sitting the sill onto a stand for support. Andrew, can you show us the places you sit jack stands on the front and rear of a VW in general, just so I don't do that again?
Ok Charlie, will add that to next relevant video 👍
Let's just say......
Your woodworking skills are advanced professional v my mechanical skills, Andrew.
Bummer of an outcome indeed.
Out of interest, how long do you estimate that job, both sides took (ignoring the fiddly filming chores)?
I’ve done it again and one side is a about an hour, offside is a bit harder. Easy with 2 as you have someone to hold shock while you bolt it into chassis at the top mount. Easier too with a proper spreader tool👍
Cracking diy 😎 feel your pain, nothing worse than doing a job that involved and not resolving the reason for starting it in the first place
That’s cars for you, occasionally you get one that defies all logic. It’s actually amazing fewer cars have such rattles that are hard to pin down even for someone who’s very familiar with them. We’ll get there one day I hope 🤞
Had the same knock and creek on my Golf apparently it’s a known problem but Vw will deny it .After a weekend detailing and getting it looking mint . I took it to Stourbridge VW and guess what the W⚓️s Did sprayed grease everywhere . Wouldn’t trust them with a skate board.
Nothing wrong with it that's sport suspension on 19 alloys. Its the roads in the UK that need fixing.
Read on forums Anti Roll Bar D Rubber bushes grip the bar too tightly hence the creak/knock/rattle. Tried white lithium grease on my GTI but hard to get into the joint 🤷♂️
Another great video... Shame you didn't sort it after all that effort 👍
Thanks 👍 it’s disappointing for sure but it’s good to get to know your car intimately like this
i have a b6
2004 audi s4 wagon quattro 6 spd for sale needs work has papers nova scotia area
black on black with b7 exhaust
Hi Andrew, you might want to try greasing your control arm bushings. Had the problem with two Golf 7 GTIs. Greetings
Hi Rouven, thanks for the tip, I will add that to the list 👍🏻
Could also be anti roll bar D bushes. Could also be track rods and ends.
I did say ARB first as it sounds like Mk4 rattle but APS said this doesn’t mess up on Mk7 and from what I can see they can be replaced separately.and subframe needs to come down to get bar off. Checked the 13mm bolts and all tight
Such a shame when you do all that work to no avail. Kudos for doing it on the drive!
I’ve just replaced my front shocks on my cupra 3.5, I got both sides ( monroe dcc)for about £250 from AUTODOC. Arrived in under a week 👍🏼
That’s cheap! VW want £364 for the pair with a hefty trade discount which I thought was cheap but you know me, Monroe is the same as genuine, just depends I how rare the CSS versions are as might be VW only
@@volkswizard It is cheap, I think seat wanted around 260 each. And I have heard they are the same dampers but different branding. I would look at bilsteins 😊
Awful sound on this one andrew...like a constant buzzing....
A couple videos are like this, thought it was my phone. Glad I'm not going mad lol
Was really hoping that would sort it. My R has some horrid knocking and clacking at the front. Drop links did nothing 😢
Thanks Leigh. I’d like to offer some suggestions but I’m a bit out of ideas. Have checked all front suspension and subframe bolts, front bumper and arch liners off too and scuttle cover but nothing
Hi. Feel as disappointed as you for it not solving the issue. Could you explain the ‘famous’ creaking from 7 / 7.5 steering / suspension at some time. Is this issue related? My (now sold) Mk7.5 went through a period of being really noticeable. Especially during last years hot weather and was a low mileage, not often used car.
Hi ya
I've followed from the start brilliant as usual
Can't understand why you didn't put Eibach lowering springs on
I put them on a 1 year old Edition 30
Bloody hell what a difference
Very comfortable but brilliant cornering
Tim
Thanks Tim! The Clubsport S is a bit special as its chassis was developed far more intensively than that of a typical GTI by a very respected ex-Porsche engineer and is a perfect balance of ride and handling for the road and works on track too. So there's not a lot of real world improvement to be had. Yes it would look good a bit lower but any decrease in compliance will make it a slower car on a british B road and that's where it currently excels. It's already a 5 star car according to evo magazine, any modifications could easily send that score backwards (though probably not as far as Mk8 Golf R's 3 stars..)
Another great video , shame it didnt solve the issue, really annoying, i know how you feel !
Thanks so much NGA, never thought I’d find it so hard to find a rattle on a Mk7 Golf!
@@volkswizard My main OCD in life is rattles in my cars, and being as i only buy Vw i have had to find quite. a few...
I feel your pain also...
Hi...I think its youre lower ball joints andrew😢😊
That is a good point sir, a very good point. CSS runs funny camber so maybe it kills ball joints?
@@volkswizard if I'm right maybe you can solve my 1.9 tdi 105 bhp issue...limp mode at 60mph...tried maf and n75 valve...thinking its turbo....cheers sime
Ah that disappointment when you go for a test drive after replacing something and fault is still there 😥. VW top mounts peaked with the MK3 VR6 and have gone down hill ever since a car of your age and mileage should still be really good.
Just reading the comments really shows that VW has absolutely shocking build quality...few months old cars rattling with track focused suspension parts...would not touch any vw group car with my own cash...such a shame because the mk7 gti is apparently great to drive...
600 each for shocks..vw are having a laugh.. for that kind of money they shouldn't be gone after that mileage.
Quite.
I got that wrong they are around £600 pair plus top mounts, pinch bolts and labour I’d expect 4 figures + at VW
@volkswizard yeah i agree. I recently fitted some b14 coilovers a specialist wanted 400-500 fitted so I decided to fit myself while the weather has been nice. 😂
this is why are corntree need's to en-force engineering in are school classe's. now are brexit is did we have took back control of are education system. we can force peeps to build decent car's what are well engineered and dont need to confirm to the european safety standard's what are really quite restrective.
Sorry but Brexit has zero to do with the education curriculum and never did. Yes I agree EU safety standards and pollution regs do appear to be a campaign against motoring but let’s face it the U.K. was never much good and mass produced cars. Yes we had exceptions like low volume luxury models but they’ve all been sold off these days to Indians or Germans. The unions wrecked our engineering capability by making it uneconomic and uncompetitive