just a note. when you are tightening the axle bolt at the 26 minute mark, all the torque you are putting through the axle bolt is being transferred to the little torx head screw you have holding the rotor onto the hub. better to take the center cap off the wheel, mount the wheel on and have a 2nd person apply the brakes with the car on the ground.
Another way to check for bearing issues without relying on some listening tool is to simply rotate the wheel with one hand while keeping your other hand on the strut/spring. If there is a problem, you will definitely feel the vibration on the spring. Otherwise, it will feel perfectly smooth and no vibration will be communicated from the bearing to the strut.
Absolutely brilliant video and explanation, made the job very easy understand. Just wish our Canadian car was as clean and non-corroded as the one you were working on! Thanks!
Great DIY video as always! But the torque spec for the wheel bearing to axle bolt is wrong. The torque spec for WHT005437A (silver) is 200 Nm + 90 deg. The 200 Nm + 180 deg torque spec is for WHT005437 (black). To folks that want to torque the wheel bearing to axle bolt without using the screwdriver trick, VW recommends torquing the bolt to 200 Nm with the car on jack stands while holding the brake. Then do the 90 deg rotation with the car on the ground.
Awesome as always! thank you! Going to be replacing spring, struts, rotors, calipers, pads, lines, bearings and ball joints on a Mk2 Audi TT over the next few days thanks to your videos!
Mike, why did the control arm just drop off on that, the one on my GTI wanted to be much higher and I had to pry it down. I also don't know how you torqued the mounting bolts without stripping them, my tool wouldn't stay square!
Awesome DIY.. I hear a roaring on my Mk6 Jetta on the driver front this is pretty much exactly the process.. I just did a rear bearing in my GF’s B8 A4 that was not as simple as this is gonna be.. those two upper M12 tpl square are hard to get to. So great job Michael 👍🏻👍🏻 FCP looks like a cool place to work.. would and alignment be required after that since you disconnected ctlt arm? And is there blue loc tite on the axle bolt?
fully seated m12. still stripped. world of hurt. Thanks god they dont use normal hex bolts that have held literally everything together for the past 100yrs, and have uber special rare proprietary bits which dont work as well. Thanks VW!
they are thru bolts. clean the exposed threads that stick through the old bearing.... that will help get them out..... I was able to get them out on a Canadian car (salt belt) with a long 3/8" ratchet.
just a note. when you are tightening the axle bolt at the 26 minute mark, all the torque you are putting through the axle bolt is being transferred to the little torx head screw you have holding the rotor onto the hub. better to take the center cap off the wheel, mount the wheel on and have a 2nd person apply the brakes with the car on the ground.
Another way to check for bearing issues without relying on some listening tool is to simply rotate the wheel with one hand while keeping your other hand on the strut/spring. If there is a problem, you will definitely feel the vibration on the spring. Otherwise, it will feel perfectly smooth and no vibration will be communicated from the bearing to the strut.
Great job, if only every mechanic worked the same way, world would be better place 😁
It's his car, bruh. Proly wouldn't give 2 shitz about anyone elses car, as long as he gets the $$$ from his YT channelz.
Absolutely brilliant video and explanation, made the job very easy understand. Just wish our Canadian car was as clean and non-corroded as the one you were working on! Thanks!
Great DIY video as always! But the torque spec for the wheel bearing to axle bolt is wrong. The torque spec for WHT005437A (silver) is 200 Nm + 90 deg. The 200 Nm + 180 deg torque spec is for WHT005437 (black).
To folks that want to torque the wheel bearing to axle bolt without using the screwdriver trick, VW recommends torquing the bolt to 200 Nm with the car on jack stands while holding the brake. Then do the 90 deg rotation with the car on the ground.
Sorry, what do you mean by "Silver" and "Black" bolts? Is there a darker version of the axle bolt? TY
@@Kevin_MK7RSR They are of different materials. You can google the part numbers and see their visual differences.
@@mattsheng2211 Noted, thanks!
Awesome as always! thank you! Going to be replacing spring, struts, rotors, calipers, pads, lines, bearings and ball joints on a Mk2 Audi TT over the next few days thanks to your videos!
Mike, why did the control arm just drop off on that, the one on my GTI wanted to be much higher and I had to pry it down. I also don't know how you torqued the mounting bolts without stripping them, my tool wouldn't stay square!
@15:22 your saying this as if wheel bearings actually go bad on Volkswagens 🤣🤣🤣, really great DIY video by the way
I have a 2019 A3, with all of these being part of the MQB platform, is the process the same/similar?
Can a bad wheel bearing make the power steering stiff when driving ?
Is it safe to assume this is super similar to the 2016 Jetta?
Awesome DIY.. I hear a roaring on my Mk6 Jetta on the driver front this is pretty much exactly the process.. I just did a rear bearing in my GF’s B8 A4 that was not as simple as this is gonna be.. those two upper M12 tpl square are hard to get to. So great job Michael 👍🏻👍🏻 FCP looks like a cool place to work.. would and alignment be required after that since you disconnected ctlt arm? And is there blue loc tite on the axle bolt?
Totally unrelated but what’s the chances you will sell a CSL intake for the e46 m3? A full kit for the manual Trans?
Good Job
Very good! 💪🏻💪🏻💪🏻💪🏻
fully seated m12. still stripped. world of hurt.
Thanks god they dont use normal hex bolts that have held literally everything together for the past 100yrs, and have uber special rare proprietary bits which dont work as well. Thanks VW!
How you solved it? I juste stripped 1 too
Do you have a 2015 TDI golf timing belt water pump video?
Hi Marc, we just filmed one on a 13', working on the edit portion of it soon!
Exc info and tutorial
The 3 hub bolts in the back suck so much to get out if it’s rusty.
they are thru bolts. clean the exposed threads that stick through the old bearing.... that will help get them out..... I was able to get them out on a Canadian car (salt belt) with a long 3/8" ratchet.
The subtitles "822 nm or 90ft pound" 😆
😅
Holding the wheel to the car? Maybe on a rear wheel drive….
If you don’t know, shhhh
I'm a bad person, am I OK to watch?