I have a 1975 gmc c25 this is my first time working on a american car. I was going to the landfill today and my brakes were fubar. Your video saved my day thank you so much. Liked and subscribed for sure
Amazing video, the only thing I would add is while you're that deep into your drums replace the hardware (Springs, retaining clips, etc.). They sell hardware kits for the drums that include all the springs and misc. parts that's about $10 or less per side. Especially if you don't know the last time it was done. Again, amazing video, just the refresher I was looking for before going into my weekend drum brake project!
Thanks J, i have a 1974 chevy 3/4 ton beast, your info is invaluable, 2nd owner all number matching truck, first time ive had to replace anything on the brakes, was a farm truck in idaho, 64000 original miles, now its time to put some love into it Thanks: jeff
Im not exactly sure if its completely necessary but i habe always heard if get fluid particularly any oily substance or brake fluid to replace the shoes or pads since they will not be the same.
thanks for the lesson ! I’m doing a 83 chevy P30 van with dually wheels and I sure don’t have the clearance between the leaf spring and the back of the drum that you obviously have, so I’ve found myself undertaking the removal of the leaf springs to accomplish the replacement of a stripped bleeder screw that has had my van down now for months, I’ve now purchased all the parts I required ( I thought ) like shackles, springs and shocks being that my need to bleed my brakes was troubled by a single sstripped out bleeder screw !!! Well like usual, back to the auto parts store and harbor freight for more stuff !!!
I have an 88 Chevy 1 ton dump Same problem you have. So I'm going to try and remove the wheel cylinder pull it out from the back plater then I can bleed it by using clamps on the plunger pins to holds it put pressure through the bleed screw . OR take the U bolts that holds the axle to the rear. Now I can jack up the frame and by doing so the leaf springs goes up away from axle and out of the way.
One technique I’ve found that works well with bleeding the rear is to apply the vacuum bleeder, let it run and slowly depress the brake pedal a few times. If you have the larger rectangular brake fluid reservoir, You’ll see the smaller side fluid level go down each time. The vacuum bleeder alone didn’t get my pedal feel where I wanted it. Now the brakes are like a new truck.
Very useful on my 73 c20 but I do have a question on do not appear to have have a retaining ring and my locking block is rather far in and a magnet can’t reach nor do my picks seam to be able to pull it out any ideas?
Great video! Quick question, where you measured the drum is this also where you measure it to determine the size for the master cylinder and power booster? There are apparently 2 different sizes to get an 11in and 13in
This video is seriously top notch. 👍🏻👍🏻 would this procedure be very similar if working on the semi floating 14 bolt axle? Do you also happen to have a video showing how to do the drum brake replacement on these?
Yes, it would be very similar. You may have a different spindle nut socket set up, some years had an inner and outer nut. And I will actually be putting together a drum and shoe video in the next month or so.
Please someone help me I have 1998 gmc 1500 5.7L v8 it has the 14 bolt rear end but it has 6 bolt wheel hubs and I just completely ordered the wrong drum set as the backing plate sits so far back and the drum doesn’t meet with it I should have these drums but for 6 bolt I just don’t understand what the hell is going on I can’t fit my drum on
If you have the floating axle rear end like the 14-bolt your axle is out so there should be no way to spin the drive shaft until the axle is reinstalled. If its spinning with your axle installed then that is proper.
Yes there are some versions of the 14-bolt that came with two spindle nuts. You can google the factory repair manual and follow the same procedure but set the bearing load following the manual
Fantastic! '74 K20 Camper Special. Saved my butt!
I have a 1975 gmc c25 this is my first time working on a american car. I was going to the landfill today and my brakes were fubar. Your video saved my day thank you so much. Liked and subscribed for sure
Thank you Jay, this is what I needed to see first! Bought stuff I really didn't need because I was in a hurry..
Amazing video, the only thing I would add is while you're that deep into your drums replace the hardware (Springs, retaining clips, etc.). They sell hardware kits for the drums that include all the springs and misc. parts that's about $10 or less per side. Especially if you don't know the last time it was done. Again, amazing video, just the refresher I was looking for before going into my weekend drum brake project!
Going into a ‘97 Chevy 3500 ,thanks for sharing.
Information was great.
Thanks J, i have a 1974 chevy 3/4 ton beast, your info is invaluable,
2nd owner all number matching truck, first time ive had to replace anything on the brakes, was a farm truck in idaho, 64000 original miles, now its time to put some love into it
Thanks: jeff
Glad it helped Jeff!
Nicely done, thank you for sharing.
Great video, thanks for putting these up
Im not exactly sure if its completely necessary but i habe always heard if get fluid particularly any oily substance or brake fluid to replace the shoes or pads since they will not be the same.
Good morning Bud Thanks for all the Great info did it first time yesterday Thanks
What is the axle socket size?
thanks for the lesson ! I’m doing a 83 chevy P30 van with dually wheels and I sure don’t have the clearance between the leaf spring and the back of the drum that you obviously have, so I’ve found myself undertaking the removal of the leaf springs to accomplish the replacement of a stripped bleeder screw that has had my van down now for months, I’ve now purchased all the parts I required ( I thought ) like shackles, springs and shocks being that my need to bleed my brakes was troubled by a single sstripped out bleeder screw !!! Well like usual, back to the auto parts store and harbor freight for more stuff !!!
I have an 88 Chevy 1 ton dump Same problem you have. So I'm going to try and remove the wheel cylinder pull it out from the back plater then I can bleed it by using clamps on the plunger pins to holds it put pressure through the bleed screw . OR take the U bolts that holds the axle to the rear. Now I can jack up the frame and by doing so the leaf springs goes up away from axle and out of the way.
One technique I’ve found that works well with bleeding the rear is to apply the vacuum bleeder, let it run and slowly depress the brake pedal a few times. If you have the larger rectangular brake fluid reservoir, You’ll see the smaller side fluid level go down each time. The vacuum bleeder alone didn’t get my pedal feel where I wanted it. Now the brakes are like a new truck.
That was the best video I have seen, thank you j
I can't remember the differences between doing this for a k10 - which I have - and a k20 like yours. Guidance would help a lot. Thanks!
Nicely done diy video! Thanks Jay!
Very useful on my 73 c20 but I do have a question on do not appear to have have a retaining ring and my locking block is rather far in and a magnet can’t reach nor do my picks seam to be able to pull it out any ideas?
Very useful! Thanks
This was a very good video. Thank you.
how long did this take from start to finish?
Great video! Quick question, where you measured the drum is this also where you measure it to determine the size for the master cylinder and power booster? There are apparently 2 different sizes to get an 11in and 13in
Thanks! And yes, the print on the outside that shows max diameter will indicate the 11 inch versus 13 inch drum system!
Nice tutorial
Thank you! Cheers!
This video is seriously top notch. 👍🏻👍🏻 would this procedure be very similar if working on the semi floating 14 bolt axle? Do you also happen to have a video showing how to do the drum brake replacement on these?
Yes, it would be very similar. You may have a different spindle nut socket set up, some years had an inner and outer nut. And I will actually be putting together a drum and shoe video in the next month or so.
What wheels do you have on this truck?
Please someone help me I have 1998 gmc 1500 5.7L v8 it has the 14 bolt rear end but it has 6 bolt wheel hubs and I just completely ordered the wrong drum set as the backing plate sits so far back and the drum doesn’t meet with it I should have these drums but for 6 bolt I just don’t understand what the hell is going on I can’t fit my drum on
Is it normal for the drive shaft to spin when u spin the drum? I feel like I messed up with the spindle nuts or something
If you have the floating axle rear end like the 14-bolt your axle is out so there should be no way to spin the drive shaft until the axle is reinstalled. If its spinning with your axle installed then that is proper.
What’s size spindle nut socket
I used a 6-lug 2-5/8'' outer spindle nut socket. Thanks for asking, I'll make sure to update the description!
I' would Always replace the axle seal while you got it apart. Cheap insurance and prevents extra work later.
Show the seal
Show the seal installation
Show the seal installation process
The only recommendation i have would be to put the wheel on and then tq axle that looked pretty sketchy
It didn't show the seal
73 c20 has 2 of the spindle nuts
Yes there are some versions of the 14-bolt that came with two spindle nuts. You can google the factory repair manual and follow the same procedure but set the bearing load following the manual
Do not break the line he under plays it it’s a bitch to install
J