I rebuilt both wheel cylinders on my 74 Galaxie. The kit came with new pistons rubber seals, spring and the dust covers. Paid 29 Brazilian Reais for the kit.
Thanks for the video. Looks like you need a ultrasonic cleaner...You should use brake fluid as an assembly lube. From what I could see, the cylinder is still pitted; I hope this was just for demonstration. To keep it from seizing up, a small amount of anti-seize at the top of the bleeder valve threads.
Another reason to rebuild your old stuff, new crap comes with metric bolts. Which can be a pain when everything else on your old American made truck or car is SAE. I just had this problem with the clutch/ brake master cylinder on my dad's 1963 GMC pickup. But I had to use the new one.
mine wasn't seized, but was very surprised about how simple the whole thing is. i even used some new parts of a slave that didn't fit, cleaned mine out and it looks like it will go back together with the new cylinders real easy. [i kept the old slave bodies because they had the right fitting bolts - the new one didn't]
Shoot none of mine local shop have the kits for my truck and online they asking for about the same price on a new complete cylinder. I wanted to rebuild it to learn from the on hand experience but I guess buying a new cylinder is my option.
You need to clean the bore. If it is not pitted or scored, then you can get away with just cleaning it up with an ultra fine scotchbrite pad. That said, , brake cylinder hone costs about $10 to $15 bucks. amzn.to/3NFN2pa
i'm doing it at the moment. i'm gonna use some 1500 grit paper and some CRC and my finger. i'll let you know how it goes. i've used some CLR to dissolve any alloy decay powder. i just cannot buy any more tools i'll only use once so as long as there's no pitting i think it should be fine.. my cylinders and rubber seals are brand new so half the problem is solved
@@Reddirtrodz yeh it seemed to go back together nice and i made sure it had that nice travel that you did in the video. as long as it doesn't leak tomorrow when it goes back on i'll do the other side the same.
This works great. www.amazon.com/Permatex-24125-Ceramic-Extreme-Lubricant/dp/B0018PSASU/ref=asc_df_B0018PSASU/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=312141533517&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=6581805064370921952&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=m&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=1024339&hvtargid=pla-571820984777&psc=1&mcid=58ef3728bbd03119962338b384fa6144&tag=&ref=&adgrpid=61941536837&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvadid=312141533517&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=6581805064370921952&hvqmt=&hvdev=m&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=1024339&hvtargid=pla-571820984777&gclid=CjwKCAjwnv-vBhBdEiwABCYQA7Spq5DBViMAKv3LRQBG_gxQjpqNcCwPOWQ2_d54U0uJnFCvz2RHzBoChH8QAvD_BwE
May I suggest you be more specific? You keep stating "diesel"; diesel what? fuel? Also, you applied "grease" to the plunger; it looks like silicone grease, but you don't specify...
There is a tiny smear between the piston and the cup, this is not going to see brake fluid. This is how I was taught by an old timer. This is Marine grease, it is specifically formulated to be compatible with rubber seals and prevent corrosion from water. Another option would be silicon paste. Some wheel cylinder kits come with piston grease. The metal pistons only see brake fluid when the seals wear out. There is no grease in the cylinder itself, just a tiny dab to keep the cup from welding to the piston.
The rebuild process takes 20 minutes, but this one was seized, so we let it soak. That's not typical, this one had sat for years and rusted up. That said. This process shows that you can save even crusty old wheel cylinders!
I rebuilt both wheel cylinders on my 74 Galaxie. The kit came with new pistons rubber seals, spring and the dust covers. Paid 29 Brazilian Reais for the kit.
Well made and to the point video, thank you sir. It's satisfying to watch that hunk of rusted iron become new again!
Thanks for the video. Looks like you need a ultrasonic cleaner...You should use brake fluid as an assembly lube. From what I could see, the cylinder is still pitted; I hope this was just for demonstration. To keep it from seizing up, a small amount of anti-seize at the top of the bleeder valve threads.
Great vid! Thanks for the detailed information. I’m about to do my 95 Mitsubishi with tandem rear wheels & dual wheel cylinders on each side.
💪👍🥂
very informative video, just rebuilt the rear brake cylinders on my 1982 moskvich 412 and now it finally stops!
Used to have a VAZ 2104. Never gave me any problems.
Another reason to rebuild your old stuff, new crap comes with metric bolts. Which can be a pain when everything else on your old American made truck or car is SAE. I just had this problem with the clutch/ brake master cylinder on my dad's 1963 GMC pickup. But I had to use the new one.
That's a fact! I hate mixing metric and sae!
mine wasn't seized, but was very surprised about how simple the whole thing is. i even used some new parts of a slave that didn't fit, cleaned mine out and it looks like it will go back together with the new cylinders real easy. [i kept the old slave bodies because they had the right fitting bolts - the new one didn't]
Great video. You should def mount your vise to the table though man. Lol
Is it basically the same for a 1962 Buick wheel cylinder?
Thank you, Tim H.
Yes, all wheel brake cylinders are essentially the same.
When you were hammering it, it helps to have an actually solid fixture.. all your force was gone considering you were working on a trampoline.
I take it the outside where the seal sits was cleaned up too? Thanks for the video.
Yes, the entire body was cleaned.
Shoot none of mine local shop have the kits for my truck and online they asking for about the same price on a new complete cylinder. I wanted to rebuild it to learn from the on hand experience but I guess buying a new cylinder is my option.
That's no bueno!
What if i don't have hone tool?
Is it very important to hone the cylinder bore?
You need to clean the bore. If it is not pitted or scored, then you can get away with just cleaning it up with an ultra fine scotchbrite pad. That said, , brake cylinder hone costs about $10 to $15 bucks.
amzn.to/3NFN2pa
i'm doing it at the moment. i'm gonna use some 1500 grit paper and some CRC and my finger. i'll let you know how it goes. i've used some CLR to dissolve any alloy decay powder. i just cannot buy any more tools i'll only use once so as long as there's no pitting i think it should be fine.. my cylinders and rubber seals are brand new so half the problem is solved
@@fuzzjunky it works just fine how you are doing it, as long as there isn't much pitting.
@@Reddirtrodz yeh it seemed to go back together nice and i made sure it had that nice travel that you did in the video. as long as it doesn't leak tomorrow when it goes back on i'll do the other side the same.
For less than $20 just go out and buy a new one. By the time you pay for Evaporust and a rebuilt kit it would be cheaper to by a new one.
Yes, IF a new one is available, they are not always available.
Yep, find me a new one for a 1954 Willy’s aero.
may I know what type of grease did you use??? Thank you...
This works great. www.amazon.com/Permatex-24125-Ceramic-Extreme-Lubricant/dp/B0018PSASU/ref=asc_df_B0018PSASU/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=312141533517&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=6581805064370921952&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=m&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=1024339&hvtargid=pla-571820984777&psc=1&mcid=58ef3728bbd03119962338b384fa6144&tag=&ref=&adgrpid=61941536837&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvadid=312141533517&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=6581805064370921952&hvqmt=&hvdev=m&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=1024339&hvtargid=pla-571820984777&gclid=CjwKCAjwnv-vBhBdEiwABCYQA7Spq5DBViMAKv3LRQBG_gxQjpqNcCwPOWQ2_d54U0uJnFCvz2RHzBoChH8QAvD_BwE
When you say Diesel, you mean Diesel fuel from the station?
@@joshuawick5382 yep! Plain old diesel fuel, it works wonders for cleaning parts.
I watched the video til the end. Title should’ve been, How to remove a brake piston.
@jamescaneda9515 I mean, I rebuilt the wheel cylinder, which is exactly what the title says...
@@Reddirtrodz I like the way you used the bigger hammer.
May I suggest you be more specific? You keep stating "diesel"; diesel what? fuel? Also, you applied "grease" to the plunger; it looks like silicone grease, but you don't specify...
Im not sure what else diesel would mean in this case, but yes, it is diesel fuel.
The grease was an oversight, it is DOT hydraulic brake grease.
This is where i would just spend $25 bucks and just buy one because the headache is not worth the results.
grease in a brake cylinder ?? That does not mix with rubber and brake fluid
There is a tiny smear between the piston and the cup, this is not going to see brake fluid. This is how I was taught by an old timer. This is Marine grease, it is specifically formulated to be compatible with rubber seals and prevent corrosion from water. Another option would be silicon paste. Some wheel cylinder kits come with piston grease. The metal pistons only see brake fluid when the seals wear out. There is no grease in the cylinder itself, just a tiny dab to keep the cup from welding to the piston.
Wow 3 days on 1 wheel cylinder! I could have done 80 in 3 day's.
The rebuild process takes 20 minutes, but this one was seized, so we let it soak. That's not typical, this one had sat for years and rusted up. That said. This process shows that you can save even crusty old wheel cylinders!
@@Reddirtrodz
Amazing
NEVER EVER USE A PETROLEUM PRODUCT IN THE BRAKE FLUID SECTION! ALWAYS USE FRESH BRAKE FLUID ONLY.
This was DOT grease, which is brake fluid safe.
You're right about that
I just pretended it doesn't come out😂...
For 3 more bucks could have got a rebuilt complete
Accept that for some vehicles new parts are not available
So you're saying spend $4 more dollars and buy a new one lol
@scottschmittmusic not all wheel cylinders are available new, and this is the kind of skill that could be very useful someday.