Easiest way to induce heat creep is not letting the fan cool off the hotend completely after a print. New filament isn’t coming in so old filament is cooking while the heater temps are transferring directly up into the heat sink due to the fan not being on to dissipate the heat. Do this enough times and your eventually if not immediately get a clog. I point out something so obvious because you do that at least once in this video ( 21:35 ). I was even thinking “he’s gonna clog that nozzle not letting the hot end cool off”.
Yes, that is an issue. If you power down before it has cooled then you’ll have a nice surprise to take up some time and possibly spare parts when you switch it back on. When you have a super-reliable machine that never requires power-cycling to escape weird intractable errors then this wouldn’t be as annoying. My AMS unit is cursed, though, so no such luck. 😾 (Did manage 19 hours of a 20 hour print yesterday / this morning, though. So I guess that 95% reliability now. Winding the filament in, stops at print-head, thinks a bit, winds back out, repeats about five times, then claims there is a blockage. Pull filament entirely, pull power from AMS then reapply, load filament, and it now works. I had about eight of these over 60 layers, so a nice semi-random problem.)
I'm printing a lot of CF-PLA on mine, and it's working flawlessly, an ancient roll of Proto-pasta, the original formulation, brittle as hell. Taking the reverse Bowden out of the cable chain is essential, added hinged risers for the lid to give it plenty of clearance.
It's too bad you had issues with the nozzle. I was hoping you'd cover printing ASA or ABS with it. I've been printing a lot of ASA in my K1. I wrap it in blankets and use the bed to bring the internal temperature up to 50°C, then as it's printing it slowly creeps up to 60°C and I get beautiful ASA prints. However, the heat brake fan will fail at those temps.
Good to know that the K1 heat break fan can't take the heat of a pseudo heated chamber. I drape a clear 30 gallon trash bag over my Neptune 4 Pro and the 110 C bed gets the "chamber" temperature up to 55 C and ABS prints very well, but the little model light LED built into the hot end dimmed so much after 100 hours of printing ABS that it's now useless, but so far everything else has withstood the improvised heated build chamber on this open frame bed slinger.
Sound can't escape through very small gaps due to "wave guide beyond cutoff". That is if the opening is much smaller than the wavelength of the sound, the sound won't propagate through the opening. So high frequency noise might escape, but low frequency noise won't.
That is cool! I didn't know that. I guess what I'm noticing is the higher frequency hissing noises and possibly stepper motor ringing leaking out through the smaller gaps. A lot of mechanical noises is they are a broad spectrum noises, so it's a combination of lower and higher frequencies.
@@NathanBuildsRobots The term "wave guide beyond cutoff" actually refers to microwave electromagnetic waves, it's the reason why the microwaves can't go though the door of your microwave oven, thanks to the metal mesh in the glass. The same principle also applies to sound. Anyone building a ported speaker cabinet will run into this when sizing the port opening.
Hey! thank you for this review, just ordered mine yesterday as an upgrade for a 3 year old ender 3 pro. I think I really needed a change and this looked like a good fit for my needs. You gave me some hope and excitement for when I eventually get it some time soon!
I have a k1 and I do like it. I fixed most of the small issues and also have it rooted and running stock klipper and fluidd now. I was excited for the new hot end but now am on the fence. I would say the best way to print carbon fiber nylon , petg etc is to use a 0.6mm nozzle. I had issues with heat creep and the nozzle getting plugged up when printing cf material. The only one I had no issues with was cf PLA when using a 0.4mm nozzle.
Hi Nathan, hope your well and the fight with this printer was not too a pain? I just awhile ago on 31st December 2023, Got my 1st ever enclosed fast klipper 3D Printer the Qidi X-Plus-3. It been a great printer. But I had a big problem just last week where I left the printer doing a overnight print for the 1st time and woke up the next day to find that the model had un-stuck from the bed and was melted in the ball of death around the printing fast at 400 per second head. the ball was fully wrapped around the lower part of the hot end. I stopped the printing, and had to spend about 30 minutes slowly hot gun heating the ball of now set melted white PLA and carefully poking it off. I got it off and it had split the silicone sock and that had got partly stuck in the middle of that ball. The thing is, I had the bed auto leveled fine and done a great z off set as the model before printed with zero problems so the leveling and off set must have been okay? I got to now remove the hot end ceramic heater block and cooling fins and clean the rest of the melted PLA off them. Qidi do have a 2nd hot end in the box of a Hardened nozzle hot end So I fit that for now! Qidi are a great company for helping us so they said they will send me another normal copper hot end heater block unit. Just a pain as the bed was clean and had fresh glue layer so odd indeed it failed. Anyway I love the speed and detailed printing my X-Plus -3 does just thought you like to wear about my issues?
Someone needs to add a sensor or switch that can detect that kind of error. Computer vision might be able to do it, but a dedicated Senator should be great because it would ideally be more reliable
C stands for Customer feedback revision! As Creality loves to substitute user testing and feedback part of the product design cycle with a new revision after a few months.
How did the filament break in the bowden tube, but was still in the tube? wouldn't the extruder continue pulling the filament from the break? I think you got a clog and the filament broke from the constant flexing as the motion system continued on.
I think you're right. The filament had a dent in it from the filament grinding away at it. Not sure if it was a nozzle clog or heat creep that caused it, but either way, not good. I suppose there is a possibility that it was bad filament that caused it as well.
Exactly what I was wondering. What I learned on my K1 Max is that the extruder gears get so hot that they will soften if not melt PLA filament. After a rushed change from an enclosed ASA print to Creality Hyper PLA the PLA filament melted inside the extruder. Once that happens, you can't make the extruder push out filament and the filament acts like a pin, preventing you from disassembling the extruder to clear the jam. Sucks.
Probably already being said but remove the bowden tube out of the chain and you can even print carbon nylon out of the regular K1 series (with a nozzle change) i made a vid about it using the bondtech nozzles. Alround a well needed update, thanks for sharing!
I think what causes your "VFA" is slicing from a STL (point cloud model) where arcs are basically polylines, and I think the print head is doing accel/decel at each line segment when cornering and therefore extruding more near the intersection. I would try feeding a Gcode file that uses geometeric arc interpolation (G02, G03) and see if the problem goes away.
For clogged nozzles I use a cheap rework station instead of a torch to avoid degrading the nozzle/heat-break. When used with the metal NoClogger (available on amazon) there's essentially no clog you cant remedy. Hope that helps in the future, & great vid!
I had a similarly bad clog on my K1C 1 week into owning it, spare nozzles are also not available (probably for months), so I just turned off all the fans, turned the hotend all the way up and after waiting a couple of minutes to heatsoak the entire nozzle assembly I could just push the clog out the top with an old guitar string. The whole extruder and nozzle construction is solid and pretty easily serviceable if you know what you're doing.
Nathan have you seen Vector 3D Teardown of the K1C. His looked very used and also he did not have an all metal gear set as Crealty describe. Your fan on yours also looked rather dirty as well. Have you checked your extruder gearset ? I have a review sample and I’m going to check mine the weekend. What’s rather odd is that some of these seem very used before being sent for reviews.
When clearing out the clog, why not heat up the metal rod to glowing red and then placing it down the heatbreak/nozzle instead of heating up the whole hotend?
Nathan! Thank you for bringing all these awesome videos to us! I have a question if you could help me out, With all these new printers coming out, i remember your amazing review on the Ender 5 S1 and want to ask at its current reduced price(even cheaper refurbished!!) do you think the Ender 5 S1 is still viable? Being easily fixed and modded?
I'd rather get an Ender 3 V3 SE or KE. There's not much point in having a cube printer if it doesn't come with an enclosure, at least thats what I think.
Creality's US store does not have replacement nozzles for the K1C ! I asked in the store chat when/if they would be available and they had no idea !! This is a major problem!
very good review. the fact that it cannot really pring CF is important. why then do we need this 300°C if we cannot use it? then why bother with enclosure? then why k1c?
I did exactly that with my Bambu Lab P1S. I used kapton tape to build up the Bowden tube for a good fit to the guide-ring section at the top of the head. Tried a couple of printed ‘guides’ for the Bowden, but they weren’t that successful.
I really can't afford the newly released K2 plus and I would not expect K2 performance from the K1C. That being said, is the K1C good enough? It is to supercede a highly modded Ender 3 Pro, and an Ender S1 on my bench.
Hello. I bought a Creality K1 hotend to upgrade my V3 SE, and I have a heatbreak from Polisi3d that is supposed to be better than the stock heatbreak in the K1. The only problem is the heatbreak is really hard to get out of the K1 ceramic hotend. Do you know how to remove the heatbreak from the hotend on the K1?
They changed the pulley size? It being Creality, that then makes me wonder whether they also corrected the position of the motor to ensure the belt path was still orthogonal to the moving X gantry? And that makes me realize that I have so far not seen anyone check whether the K1, K1 max and K1C have correct orthogonal belt paths (for the parts where it matters). Maybe a gap you could fill?
I know you posted this a long time ago but the Flowtech Hotend shows it ships with hardware for both old and "New K1 Printers" that has the longer copper thermal adapter. Did yours only come with the one shown in your video? Edit: I see your box doesn't show the K1C like the new version does.
The K1 has a passively heated chamber. The heated bed slowly heats the enclosed chamber. It's obviously not as good as an actively heated chamber but it works fairly well for ABS, ASA, etc.
Its really hard to load filament because it goes through such a sharp turn just before the hotend. You have to push filament hard into the tube at the back while it tries to grab it.
Agree. It's useless unless you get into the CF nylon like he said. I'm amazed at how many people just parrot the claims of filament manufacturers when it comes to CF infused filament.
@@meikgeik Dude, there is no magical relationship between PA (Nylon) and carbon fiber. If it makes PA filament stronger in ways, than it also does the same for PLA or others.
Hey Nathan I just saw couple teardown videos where the creator is very upset about the fact that the extruder (gears) are not "all-metal" as it's claimed everywhere on the advertisement materials (all-metal extruder), what do you think about it? Could it be called all-metal when only the wheels that drive the filament are metal or it's something shady? I'd love to hear your take on it if it's something worth to talk about
Shouldn't it come with a 0.6mm nozzle? If it's intended for use with CF infused filaments? I have seen quite a few videos / info stating that you should use a 0.6mm or larger nozzle especially with high % of Cf.
Do they no longer provide a needle that you can push up through the nozzle to clear it? The rod that you used it designed to push filament into the nozzle form the top like you used it, but it’s not for clearing clogs.
In the last video, I commented something along the lines of “if you disappear we know what happened”. Now you’re back, how was your “hiatus”? Any new thoughts regarding pandas?
meh, Rigor doesn't seem to be applied to testing Creality's 'improvements"? i get a similar feel about the A1 bed cord. It's a question i think many of us have about the longevity of proprietary stuff. Removing the bowden tube from the chain, and probably having a taller lid to accommodate a more gentle slope and remove the kink (not kink shaming). It's an easy mod to print an extender to set the lid on or newer iterations of the K1 can come with a taller lid. Thing is, it's such an easy fix that should have been already done, they knew the problem existed and it feels like they did a slap dash fix and didn't test it, which doesn't evoke confidence.
I like the cable chain improvement, but the rest of the stuff it seems my regular K1 is just as good if not better. My 3d printed hepa/activated carbon filter seems way better, my Triangle Labs "diamond like" nozzle seems way better -- and I can put a 0.6 on it if I want to print CF materials. You can just buy and trivially install the same "AI Cam" on the K1.
@@NathanBuildsRobots - Any style of Bowden tube is a real drag when printing TPU. I won't buy a printer with a Bowden tube and I'd remove the reverse Bowden from a K1 and feed from above.
@@Liberty4Ever I tried printing TPU on my K1 without any PTFE tube, but the filament wasn't feeding into the extruder properly. So I just started using a really short piece and now I have no problems.
@@raf_the_riffer - Thanks for the TPU report on the K1. I'm seriously contemplating a K1 Max, mostly to print some larger ABS parts (possibly ASA-CF) for a new product but I'd also want to use it to print TPU parts.
VFA in 3D printing stands for "Virtual Fidgeting Assembly." It's a groundbreaking technology where the 3D printer adds a secret compartment or a hidden puzzle within every printed object, ensuring that users never get bored while waiting for their creations to complete. It's the ultimate fidget-spinner of the future!
Vertical Fine Artifacts. It's bumps in the print that span the whole height of a part, it's usually related to some undesirable vibrations in the corexy stage
Remove the bowden tube from the last buckle on the cable chain. Then the bend is correct. My original bowden tube actually got worn out after 100 h and snapped.
If you have a look at the settings on the homepage of the touchscreen you have the option to adjust the fans either on and off or percentages of that,, I recently bought a k1 and it's very similar to the k1c
Sorry for posting another comment but I got to the part of the video where you are questioning the two screws that hold the hotend in place,,, you might have a point about "canterleavering" if you are doing something seriously wrong with the tip of the printer and it's coming into contact with the workpiece or dragging into the build plate 🤔,,, I always thought you had to avoid the nozzle coming into contact with object's??
Maybe a dumb question, but can the regular K1 or K1 Max not print Carbon? Do you need a different extruder and/or nozzle? If so, can you still print everything else?
Good question, I don't know for certain but I've noticed the issue on objects of specific radiuses, and it's not on every model, sometimes its better or worse. I think the rasterization could be causing it, but I think it has to do with the belt or stepper motor resonance.
@@alexisrivero6790 Yep, I've edited to make it clearer. So many people getting them with loose screws and belts. Beginners would be better off with the A1.
If this has been said already my apologies. Your x axis seems to be moving around much more freely on the rods than the k1 max does has there been changes within the tool head also bearings springs or such? Thanks
@@NathanBuildsRobots yeah I’ve done that even cleaned the grease Creality tells you to put on them off of them, and used a light 3n1 oil but no difference. Could be those larger wheels. Thanks for the response Nathan really enjoy your videos
People who bought previous version are like beta testers who paid full price? or they received upgrades or replaced to upgraded printer version for free?
Just curious, I really don’t like proprietary parts at all but the newer printers all have a little bit of that in them. Do you know if it’s possible to put the old hot end/nozzle assembly in the newer version? Does the original version/microswiss mod (if/when it’s compatible with k1c) allow it to use a more standard nozzle?
Replacement nozzles are not available anywhere yet ! I asked in the creality store chat and they have no idea when/if they will be available. This is a major problem !!
Actually seeing the Unicorn Nozzle I thought the "C" in K1C stands for "Colour". For Prusas mk3(s(+))+MMU2 were a lot of complains how hard/unreliable tuning of unload/ramping of filament was. This was greatly improved if people changed to the Revo hotend. The integrated heatbreak/nozzle combo leaves much better filament tips on unload. So you might can do filament changes with an ERCF without cut&poo. If you take a look at the new K2, there might be a chance it can do multicolour without cut&poo. Faster and less waste. The k1c nozzle cost about $4 to $5 on Aliexpress. So you can call it an consumable. If it realy helps automatic filamentchangers to reduce time and waste, the downside of not being able to clean it if it cloggs might be worth the compromise.
Burning the filament out created your own problems. Do you not have a heat gun? A hot air gun will get hot enough to melt lead without setting anything on fire. That might have allowed you to get the stuck filament out. I think they could do better with the Bowden tube routing though.
Thanks for your elaborate video. 34:00 maybe next time you could insert the nozzle in a separate heat block outside of the printer and hook it up a bench power supply, then you should easily be able to push the residual stuff through with that tool.
Got mine in today. already 6 prints on it. All were great hyper pla prints. Only complaint is they lip needs to be higher (already found a riser to print) and I agree on the bowden tube. Overall very happy with it for only $549 us
Why do Creality users always need to print out mods to make the printer more usable or to fix serious bugs in hardware other manufacturers don't have? For 249,-€ you get a Creality printer with 6 years old technik. For 299,-€ you get a brand new Bambu Lab A1 mini with options to ASM Lite. And you don't need to print any mods for the A1 to make it usable :)
I'd be interested in a K1C Max. I'd delete the reverse Bowden tube. I print a LOT of TPU and that's a complete non-starter but it's a PIA for all filaments. There should be a domed lid with a filament feed hole in top. I'd root it and put real Klipper on it. Klipper is awesome. Why do most 3D printer manufacturers want to install their own Kripple Klipper? Is it false pride, pretending they invented the firmware when all they did was strip out some functionality and tweak the user interface? It really bugs me that all of these large manufacturer high speed printers use nozzles that are essentially Volcano nozzles but just different enough to make them proprietary. It's even worse that they launch the printers with the nozzles back ordered. I bought a new extruder and hot end assembly for my Neptune 4 Pro just to ensure production wouldn't grind to a halt. After several months I was able to order a set of brass nozzles that should be here in a couple of days but there are still no hardened steel nozzles. I contacted Micro Swiss and begged them to make a really good extruder and hot end for the Neptune 4 series. These low cost printers are getting to be very good but mediocre extruder assemblies are their weak point in print quality, reliability and maintainability.
Yes. Network setup is optional and you can just feed it flash drives and SD cards through the usb port (for SD cards you need an SD card reader though)
I didn't realize how much I missed your videos until the uploads paused. Welcome back good sir.
Easiest way to induce heat creep is not letting the fan cool off the hotend completely after a print.
New filament isn’t coming in so old filament is cooking while the heater temps are transferring directly up into the heat sink due to the fan not being on to dissipate the heat. Do this enough times and your eventually if not immediately get a clog.
I point out something so obvious because you do that at least once in this video ( 21:35 ). I was even thinking “he’s gonna clog that nozzle not letting the hot end cool off”.
Yes, that is an issue. If you power down before it has cooled then you’ll have a nice surprise to take up some time and possibly spare parts when you switch it back on.
When you have a super-reliable machine that never requires power-cycling to escape weird intractable errors then this wouldn’t be as annoying. My AMS unit is cursed, though, so no such luck. 😾
(Did manage 19 hours of a 20 hour print yesterday / this morning, though. So I guess that 95% reliability now. Winding the filament in, stops at print-head, thinks a bit, winds back out, repeats about five times, then claims there is a blockage. Pull filament entirely, pull power from AMS then reapply, load filament, and it now works. I had about eight of these over 60 layers, so a nice semi-random problem.)
no buddy i see what you are saying but that is not heat creep.
That honest review was really a good one. No signs of hiding something or showing just the good sides. Keep that good work up👍
I'm printing a lot of CF-PLA on mine, and it's working flawlessly, an ancient roll of Proto-pasta, the original formulation, brittle as hell. Taking the reverse Bowden out of the cable chain is essential, added hinged risers for the lid to give it plenty of clearance.
A new hinge!!
Uncle Jessy proof hinge 🤣🤣🤣
Did you get your consultancy fee?
It's too bad you had issues with the nozzle. I was hoping you'd cover printing ASA or ABS with it. I've been printing a lot of ASA in my K1. I wrap it in blankets and use the bed to bring the internal temperature up to 50°C, then as it's printing it slowly creeps up to 60°C and I get beautiful ASA prints. However, the heat brake fan will fail at those temps.
Good to know that the K1 heat break fan can't take the heat of a pseudo heated chamber. I drape a clear 30 gallon trash bag over my Neptune 4 Pro and the 110 C bed gets the "chamber" temperature up to 55 C and ABS prints very well, but the little model light LED built into the hot end dimmed so much after 100 hours of printing ABS that it's now useless, but so far everything else has withstood the improvised heated build chamber on this open frame bed slinger.
Creality K1C vs Flashforge Adventurer 5M Pro with one to buy? Base on your reviews?
Sound can't escape through very small gaps due to "wave guide beyond cutoff". That is if the opening is much smaller than the wavelength of the sound, the sound won't propagate through the opening. So high frequency noise might escape, but low frequency noise won't.
That is cool! I didn't know that.
I guess what I'm noticing is the higher frequency hissing noises and possibly stepper motor ringing leaking out through the smaller gaps.
A lot of mechanical noises is they are a broad spectrum noises, so it's a combination of lower and higher frequencies.
@@NathanBuildsRobots The term "wave guide beyond cutoff" actually refers to microwave electromagnetic waves, it's the reason why the microwaves can't go though the door of your microwave oven, thanks to the metal mesh in the glass. The same principle also applies to sound. Anyone building a ported speaker cabinet will run into this when sizing the port opening.
The most honest 3d printer review on youtube!
Keep up the good work!
Greetings from Brazil
Hey! thank you for this review, just ordered mine yesterday as an upgrade for a 3 year old ender 3 pro. I think I really needed a change and this looked like a good fit for my needs. You gave me some hope and excitement for when I eventually get it some time soon!
I have a k1 and I do like it. I fixed most of the small issues and also have it rooted and running stock klipper and fluidd now. I was excited for the new hot end but now am on the fence. I would say the best way to print carbon fiber nylon , petg etc is to use a 0.6mm nozzle. I had issues with heat creep and the nozzle getting plugged up when printing cf material. The only one I had no issues with was cf PLA when using a 0.4mm nozzle.
That's probably why they sent me a spool of CF-PLA. I'm going off script with possibly predictable results?
Oh finally a new video from my favorite 3D printing influencer.
I was just thinking I hadn't seen anything new from you in a while. Welcome back!
Thank you!
I just got this one in and How do I remove the styrofoam from behin and below the build plate?
Nevermind, figured it out.
I think I speak for everyone when I say. Thank god your safe... a few of us thought Bambu got to you after the last video😅
Actually, they did get me. I have been re-educated. This is Nathan's pro-bambu replacement clone.
Fr
They would probably feed me to a Panda if the had to re educate me .
@@NathanBuildsRobots Bambu Builds Robots lol
Still waiting for multicolor. Any updates?
That editing at around 13:10 got me, love it!
Hi Nathan, hope your well and the fight with this printer was not too a pain?
I just awhile ago on 31st December 2023, Got my 1st ever enclosed fast klipper 3D Printer the Qidi X-Plus-3. It been a great printer. But I had a big problem just last week where I left the printer doing a overnight print for the 1st time and woke up the next day to find that the model had un-stuck from the bed and was melted in the ball of death around the printing fast at 400 per second head. the ball was fully wrapped around the lower part of the hot end.
I stopped the printing, and had to spend about 30 minutes slowly hot gun heating the ball of now set melted white PLA and carefully poking it off.
I got it off and it had split the silicone sock and that had got partly stuck in the middle of that ball.
The thing is, I had the bed auto leveled fine and done a great z off set as the model before printed with zero problems so the leveling and off set must have been okay?
I got to now remove the hot end ceramic heater block and cooling fins and clean the rest of the melted PLA off them.
Qidi do have a 2nd hot end in the box of a Hardened nozzle hot end So I fit that for now!
Qidi are a great company for helping us so they said they will send me another normal copper hot end heater block unit.
Just a pain as the bed was clean and had fresh glue layer so odd indeed it failed. Anyway I love the speed and detailed printing my X-Plus -3 does just thought you like to wear about my issues?
Someone needs to add a sensor or switch that can detect that kind of error. Computer vision might be able to do it, but a dedicated Senator should be great because it would ideally be more reliable
I dont understand why they put that notch in the bottom of the door glass... Why not mount the screen at the top or at the very bottom below the door?
They should release a stripped down version called the S1P and then make a better version of that and call it the S1S
C stands for Customer feedback revision! As Creality loves to substitute user testing and feedback part of the product design cycle with a new revision after a few months.
Would you suggest the k1c or the flashforge 5m pro? They are the same price for me.
I like the 5M pro more. Less issues.
There are some mods for the k1 out there if you’re into that but that drives the price up
@@NathanBuildsRobots mods for the k1c? Not k1. What kind of mods are you talking about?
@NathanBuildsRobots do you mean mods for the k1 or k1c? As I'm asking about the k1c and flashforge 5m pro, not the base k1.
How did the filament break in the bowden tube, but was still in the tube? wouldn't the extruder continue pulling the filament from the break? I think you got a clog and the filament broke from the constant flexing as the motion system continued on.
I think you're right. The filament had a dent in it from the filament grinding away at it. Not sure if it was a nozzle clog or heat creep that caused it, but either way, not good.
I suppose there is a possibility that it was bad filament that caused it as well.
Exactly what I was wondering. What I learned on my K1 Max is that the extruder gears get so hot that they will soften if not melt PLA filament. After a rushed change from an enclosed ASA print to Creality Hyper PLA the PLA filament melted inside the extruder. Once that happens, you can't make the extruder push out filament and the filament acts like a pin, preventing you from disassembling the extruder to clear the jam. Sucks.
Probably already being said but remove the bowden tube out of the chain and you can even print carbon nylon out of the regular K1 series (with a nozzle change) i made a vid about it using the bondtech nozzles.
Alround a well needed update, thanks for sharing!
19:30 ATF called, they asked for Form 4 and Form 1 for your printer enclosure
It's a fully semi automatic silencer
16:35 "Klipper like interface" Fluidd is Klipper just like Mainsail is, its just a bit different UI
I only speak "Creality print"
I think what causes your "VFA" is slicing from a STL (point cloud model) where arcs are basically polylines, and I think the print head is doing accel/decel at each line segment when cornering and therefore extruding more near the intersection. I would try feeding a Gcode file that uses geometeric arc interpolation (G02, G03) and see if the problem goes away.
I heard you were out at Luke's and took some footage - when will we be seeing that? I'm headed up there next month to pick up a Stablebot!
Nice, I'll be editing that video next, should be less than a week from now!
Hey Nathan! Thanks for the upload. Question. Did Creality make any revisions for the extruder for the K1C?
I don't think so, but I didn't take it apart to check
43:04 looks like you have the clogging where the heat sink isnt perforated all the way through for optimal cooling.
For clogged nozzles I use a cheap rework station instead of a torch to avoid degrading the nozzle/heat-break. When used with the metal NoClogger (available on amazon) there's essentially no clog you cant remedy. Hope that helps in the future, & great vid!
I had a similarly bad clog on my K1C 1 week into owning it, spare nozzles are also not available (probably for months), so I just turned off all the fans, turned the hotend all the way up and after waiting a couple of minutes to heatsoak the entire nozzle assembly I could just push the clog out the top with an old guitar string.
The whole extruder and nozzle construction is solid and pretty easily serviceable if you know what you're doing.
Thanks for the video. BTW are you planning to review when the FLSUN S1 and T1 comes out?
Nathan have you seen Vector 3D Teardown of the K1C. His looked very used and also he did not have an all metal gear set as Crealty describe. Your fan on yours also looked rather dirty as well. Have you checked your extruder gearset ? I have a review sample and I’m going to check mine the weekend. What’s rather odd is that some of these seem very used before being sent for reviews.
They are probably engineering or manufacturing test units. They would have run hundreds of hours on them before sending any machines out.
When clearing out the clog, why not heat up the metal rod to glowing red and then placing it down the heatbreak/nozzle instead of heating up the whole hotend?
That's a good idea
Nathan! Thank you for bringing all these awesome videos to us!
I have a question if you could help me out, With all these new printers coming out, i remember your amazing review on the Ender 5 S1 and want to ask at its current reduced price(even cheaper refurbished!!) do you think the Ender 5 S1 is still viable? Being easily fixed and modded?
I'd rather get an Ender 3 V3 SE or KE.
There's not much point in having a cube printer if it doesn't come with an enclosure, at least thats what I think.
@@NathanBuildsRobots very true! Think its worth waiting for the Ender 3 V3? What would your price guess be for it?
You open browser tabs (23:12) makes me feel so happy.
Creality's US store does not have replacement nozzles for the K1C ! I asked in the store chat when/if they would be available and they had no idea !! This is a major problem!
IF you make a new standard nozzle you need a plan for rolling it out. hopefully they will have them in stock soon!
Funny that the first selling point in their ad is "CLOG FREE All-metal Extruder Kit".....
In my best Project Farm voice:
We're gonna test that!
Finally your back, yes! We can use you way better at creality k1 line critics. Actuall change is posible!
very good review. the fact that it cannot really pring CF is important.
why then do we need this 300°C if we cannot use it?
then why bother with enclosure? then why k1c?
so far this is the only youtube review that showed CF failing.
The filament tube needs to come out of the cable chain to relieve that sharp angle.
great video thanks,
I did exactly that with my Bambu Lab P1S. I used kapton tape to build up the Bowden tube for a good fit to the guide-ring section at the top of the head.
Tried a couple of printed ‘guides’ for the Bowden, but they weren’t that successful.
I really can't afford the newly released K2 plus and I would not expect K2 performance from the K1C. That being said, is the K1C good enough? It is to supercede a highly modded Ender 3 Pro, and an Ender S1 on my bench.
Why not try the cleaned out nozzle/break? It would have been useful to know if clearing a glog like that would actually work.
Hello. I bought a Creality K1 hotend to upgrade my V3 SE, and I have a heatbreak from Polisi3d that is supposed to be better than the stock heatbreak in the K1. The only problem is the heatbreak is really hard to get out of the K1 ceramic hotend. Do you know how to remove the heatbreak from the hotend on the K1?
They changed the pulley size? It being Creality, that then makes me wonder whether they also corrected the position of the motor to ensure the belt path was still orthogonal to the moving X gantry? And that makes me realize that I have so far not seen anyone check whether the K1, K1 max and K1C have correct orthogonal belt paths (for the parts where it matters). Maybe a gap you could fill?
I know you posted this a long time ago but the Flowtech Hotend shows it ships with hardware for both old and "New K1 Printers" that has the longer copper thermal adapter. Did yours only come with the one shown in your video?
Edit: I see your box doesn't show the K1C like the new version does.
Hello Nathan, does the printer have a heated chamber?
The K1 has a passively heated chamber. The heated bed slowly heats the enclosed chamber. It's obviously not as good as an actively heated chamber but it works fairly well for ABS, ASA, etc.
Orca slicer does have a print preview icon
Its really hard to load filament because it goes through such a sharp turn just before the hotend. You have to push filament hard into the tube at the back while it tries to grab it.
For me ... I couldn't care less about carbon fibre, but I love the updates for other filaments!
Agree. It's useless unless you get into the CF nylon like he said. I'm amazed at how many people just parrot the claims of filament manufacturers when it comes to CF infused filament.
@@meikgeik Dude, there is no magical relationship between PA (Nylon) and carbon fiber. If it makes PA filament stronger in ways, than it also does the same for PLA or others.
You can reduce the speed of the fans in the slicer, I have my side blower fan at 40% max so it never sounds like a jet engine.
Hey Nathan I just saw couple teardown videos where the creator is very upset about the fact that the extruder (gears) are not "all-metal" as it's claimed everywhere on the advertisement materials (all-metal extruder), what do you think about it? Could it be called all-metal when only the wheels that drive the filament are metal or it's something shady? I'd love to hear your take on it if it's something worth to talk about
Plastic gears are fine. You only need metal gears if you're going over 80C chamber temp. Are you going over 80C chamber temp?
So it definitely needs a better filament sensor that not only checks for the presence of filament but also whether it is still moving.
im confused your worried about the dorr open gaps etc but the top is totally open.
Shouldn't it come with a 0.6mm nozzle? If it's intended for use with CF infused filaments?
I have seen quite a few videos / info stating that you should use a 0.6mm or larger nozzle especially with high % of Cf.
Do they no longer provide a needle that you can push up through the nozzle to clear it? The rod that you used it designed to push filament into the nozzle form the top like you used it, but it’s not for clearing clogs.
In the last video, I commented something along the lines of “if you disappear we know what happened”. Now you’re back, how was your “hiatus”? Any new thoughts regarding pandas?
Yes, I have formulated an excellent counterpoint to their philosophy. It goes:
“REEEEEEEEEEEEE”
meh, Rigor doesn't seem to be applied to testing Creality's 'improvements"? i get a similar feel about the A1 bed cord. It's a question i think many of us have about the longevity of proprietary stuff. Removing the bowden tube from the chain, and probably having a taller lid to accommodate a more gentle slope and remove the kink (not kink shaming). It's an easy mod to print an extender to set the lid on or newer iterations of the K1 can come with a taller lid. Thing is, it's such an easy fix that should have been already done, they knew the problem existed and it feels like they did a slap dash fix and didn't test it, which doesn't evoke confidence.
I like the cable chain improvement, but the rest of the stuff it seems my regular K1 is just as good if not better. My 3d printed hepa/activated carbon filter seems way better, my Triangle Labs "diamond like" nozzle seems way better -- and I can put a 0.6 on it if I want to print CF materials. You can just buy and trivially install the same "AI Cam" on the K1.
How much AI does it have though? :D
I don’t even bother with the top cover or the PTFE tube. I hang my filament above and feed it through a 2 inch PTFE tube lol
Yeah I'm going to start doing that if I ever attempt CF nylon again.
@@NathanBuildsRobots - Any style of Bowden tube is a real drag when printing TPU. I won't buy a printer with a Bowden tube and I'd remove the reverse Bowden from a K1 and feed from above.
@@Liberty4Ever I tried printing TPU on my K1 without any PTFE tube, but the filament wasn't feeding into the extruder properly. So I just started using a really short piece and now I have no problems.
@@raf_the_riffer - Thanks for the TPU report on the K1. I'm seriously contemplating a K1 Max, mostly to print some larger ABS parts (possibly ASA-CF) for a new product but I'd also want to use it to print TPU parts.
@@Liberty4EverHuh? I print TPU from an Eibos Easdry with a long ass reverse Bowden to an ender 3 w/ sprite extruder without issues.
What does VFA stand for?
VFA in 3D printing stands for "Virtual Fidgeting Assembly." It's a groundbreaking technology where the 3D printer adds a secret compartment or a hidden puzzle within every printed object, ensuring that users never get bored while waiting for their creations to complete. It's the ultimate fidget-spinner of the future!
Vertical Fine Artifacts. It's bumps in the print that span the whole height of a part, it's usually related to some undesirable vibrations in the corexy stage
Remove the bowden tube from the last buckle on the cable chain. Then the bend is correct. My original bowden tube actually got worn out after 100 h and snapped.
So the K1 max still better right?
Yes, I'd prefer the max for its larger size and compatibility with standard volcano nozzles.
I remember buying X2 after watching your thorough review and it has served me well, lets see if I can resist getting this one.
If you have a look at the settings on the homepage of the touchscreen you have the option to adjust the fans either on and off or percentages of that,, I recently bought a k1 and it's very similar to the k1c
Anybody know if Creality is working on some sort of multi-material add-on ?
Wouldn’t work with any of their K1 models anyway, they don’t have multiple extruder heads
They've said that they are. Last I heard was within first half of this year.
Sorry for posting another comment but I got to the part of the video where you are questioning the two screws that hold the hotend in place,,, you might have a point about "canterleavering" if you are doing something seriously wrong with the tip of the printer and it's coming into contact with the workpiece or dragging into the build plate 🤔,,, I always thought you had to avoid the nozzle coming into contact with object's??
Nice review, When can we expect the V3 SE Modder Board to be available for sale? It's very cool could think of a few possibilities.
Hey there he is, Congratz on the K1C
@NathanBuildsRobots "K1 Bed Leveling Kit" on printables managed to get me bed down to 0.52mm variance. And it's a really quick print.
Maybe a dumb question, but can the regular K1 or K1 Max not print Carbon? Do you need a different extruder and/or nozzle? If so, can you still print everything else?
I took my ptfe tube out of the closes holder on the cable chain to the print head in order to give it a easy bend into the extruder
yeah I would definitely do that for this printer, especially when printing stiff filaments
Could also print a former to limit the radius of the curve into the extruder
Will the VFA go away if you use a step file?
Good question, I don't know for certain but I've noticed the issue on objects of specific radiuses, and it's not on every model, sometimes its better or worse. I think the rasterization could be causing it, but I think it has to do with the belt or stepper motor resonance.
Its better option this K1C over the Ender 3v3 KE?
I like the V3 KE a lot. It's the right combination of small, cheap, lightweight, and moddable.
@@NathanBuildsRobotsThe KE is really poorly put together though. Definitely not for beginners. And the motors cause VFA on anything under 180mm/s
@@oldman1944 The V3 KE?
@@alexisrivero6790 Yep, I've edited to make it clearer. So many people getting them with loose screws and belts. Beginners would be better off with the A1.
If this has been said already my apologies. Your x axis seems to be moving around much more freely on the rods than the k1 max does has there been changes within the tool head also bearings springs or such? Thanks
Could be the smaller motors requiring less torque to back drive. But none of my k1 printers are particularly hard to move. Maybe try cleaning them?
@@NathanBuildsRobots yeah I’ve done that even cleaned the grease Creality tells you to put on them off of them, and used a light 3n1 oil but no difference. Could be those larger wheels. Thanks for the response Nathan really enjoy your videos
2 questions: what carbon fiber filament did you use? And did you fallow the instructions? The clogged nozzle was a big red flag for this review.
Bro can we talk about the tab situation in your browser. Giving me anxiety over here.
Every time you click something on aliexpress it opens a new tab. I'm about to reach singularity where my laptop implodes into a black hole.
People who bought previous version are like beta testers who paid full price? or they received upgrades or replaced to upgraded printer version for free?
Hi Which would you update to, from an ENDER 3 S1 PRO the K1C OR the CR10 SE, hanks
With robustness in mind, thanks
Just curious, I really don’t like proprietary parts at all but the newer printers all have a little bit of that in them. Do you know if it’s possible to put the old hot end/nozzle assembly in the newer version? Does the original version/microswiss mod (if/when it’s compatible with k1c) allow it to use a more standard nozzle?
Replacement nozzles are not available anywhere yet ! I asked in the creality store chat and they have no idea when/if they will be available. This is a major problem !!
At the same price, this or P1S?
Damn, the title alone is brutal. Can't wait to watch it.
Glad you're back chill homie 😊
Actually seeing the Unicorn Nozzle I thought the "C" in K1C stands for "Colour". For Prusas mk3(s(+))+MMU2 were a lot of complains how hard/unreliable tuning of unload/ramping of filament was. This was greatly improved if people changed to the Revo hotend. The integrated heatbreak/nozzle combo leaves much better filament tips on unload.
So you might can do filament changes with an ERCF without cut&poo.
If you take a look at the new K2, there might be a chance it can do multicolour without cut&poo. Faster and less waste.
The k1c nozzle cost about $4 to $5 on Aliexpress. So you can call it an consumable. If it realy helps automatic filamentchangers to reduce time and waste, the downside of not being able to clean it if it cloggs might be worth the compromise.
Where you been?! I’m not even here to see the printer anymore haha
Mission accomplished
You can set the preview images in Orca. You can choose between several file Formats and sizes. One will fit the X1C. Try .PNG and 256x256
Burning the filament out created your own problems. Do you not have a heat gun? A hot air gun will get hot enough to melt lead without setting anything on fire. That might have allowed you to get the stuck filament out. I think they could do better with the Bowden tube routing though.
the new batch of K1's come with rubber feet WOW! externally now look like twins
You'll have less problems if you put your printer on a solid table. $10 card table shaking around will screw things up quick.
I thought my table was pretty solid. It's not an optical bench or anything but it's pretty sturdy for a desk.
Good preview, on of the best. thank you so much.
Nathan, you look more like a scientist than an engineer.
Thanks for your elaborate video. 34:00 maybe next time you could insert the nozzle in a separate heat block outside of the printer and hook it up a bench power supply, then you should easily be able to push the residual stuff through with that tool.
Got mine in today. already 6 prints on it. All were great hyper pla prints. Only complaint is they lip needs to be higher (already found a riser to print) and I agree on the bowden tube. Overall very happy with it for only $549 us
Why do Creality users always need to print out mods to make the printer more usable or to fix serious bugs in hardware other manufacturers don't have? For 249,-€ you get a Creality printer with 6 years old technik. For 299,-€ you get a brand new Bambu Lab A1 mini with options to ASM Lite. And you don't need to print any mods for the A1 to make it usable :)
Because we are super users, un-like those with apple devices!
People complain about not getting a 1 dollar glue stick?
So is it running Fluidd out of the box?
Good info NBR. I thought when they said K1C it was a joke.
I'd be interested in a K1C Max. I'd delete the reverse Bowden tube. I print a LOT of TPU and that's a complete non-starter but it's a PIA for all filaments. There should be a domed lid with a filament feed hole in top. I'd root it and put real Klipper on it. Klipper is awesome. Why do most 3D printer manufacturers want to install their own Kripple Klipper? Is it false pride, pretending they invented the firmware when all they did was strip out some functionality and tweak the user interface?
It really bugs me that all of these large manufacturer high speed printers use nozzles that are essentially Volcano nozzles but just different enough to make them proprietary. It's even worse that they launch the printers with the nozzles back ordered. I bought a new extruder and hot end assembly for my Neptune 4 Pro just to ensure production wouldn't grind to a halt. After several months I was able to order a set of brass nozzles that should be here in a couple of days but there are still no hardened steel nozzles. I contacted Micro Swiss and begged them to make a really good extruder and hot end for the Neptune 4 series. These low cost printers are getting to be very good but mediocre extruder assemblies are their weak point in print quality, reliability and maintainability.
K1 is compatible with standard Volcano nozzles, I've been using them since I bought the printer.
So, out of the box it will print without cloud or wifi connection?
Yes. Network setup is optional and you can just feed it flash drives and SD cards through the usb port (for SD cards you need an SD card reader though)
The camera looks very crisp
watching this over and over till mine gets here 🤣😂😅🍻🍻