@@SeriesDmusic just watched the video. The parts touching the filament are metal, but the gears look like nylon. May just be a prototype. That’s the thing about review samples, most reviewers will get prototypes and test units. They may function the same, but may not last as long as a consumer unit. Hopefully that’s the case on the two review units talking about the extruder. I suppose we will find out next month when the first units start shipping.
@@gaxon1920 Why are you constantly trying to get them out of the lie??? You say the marketing department got confused between plastic and metal lol??? Your comments are beyond laughable!!!
The plastic parts aren't just on review machines, it's on all of them. Creality have changed "all metal extruder" on their website to say something like "clog free extruder" instead.
Tried to print my first print last night. I was using the white Hyper-PLA that came with the machine. I calibrated the machine before the print and even extruded some material to make sure it was working. It did two layers (slow layers) but when it went full speed it stopped extruding and I watched as it was printing in thin air nothing coming out of the printer. I paused the print and checked the filament by trying to extrude again and it wouldnt. I then tried to retract and I could hear loud clicking coming from the nozzle but the filament wouldnt retract. I then cancelled the print, had to take the feed tube off of the extrusion module, unlocked it, tried to pull the filament out and it would not come out. Had to get some pliers and pull the filament out. I then removed the nozzle, (about burnt the crap out of my hands that was fun) and got the nozzle off. It was extremely clogged. So now I have to order new nozzles. Still have no idea what I did wrong. Most UA-cam printer tutorials operate from the viewers having a lot of experience with 3D printing. It is hard to find videos that break things down for new printers.
@@KevinKanji Ive been using "default" temp settings in the Creality software but I did get the nozzle upgrade kit and those nozzles have been fine so far with no issues. The only thing I have problems with now is learning how much support is enough for a print and also the Z-Offset is not ideal, the underside of my first layer is very "rough" and stringy but the rest is fine.
I have seen a couple of others take the extruder apart and found it was plastic and not all metal. It makes me worry about Creality's honesty in their products. Otherwise, this is a great review. Good job!
Always refreshing to have a very matter-of-fact reviewer cut out all the fluff and just give straight answers. It's incredibly helpful for people new to 3d printing!
Your testing and presentation methods has completely won me over. Extremely helpful to me as a complete beginner in the space. The functional component section was especially jaw dropping to show practical use cases. I knew this was possible with 3D printing, but that section alone really inspires and puts into perspective what is possible. Thank you!
First of all: Thank you very much for your excellent review. As the owner of a regular K1 I can tell you that with the latest firmware it also has an expert menu for adjusting the z-offset. Unfortunately, this can only be done during printing. Creality slicer has what I think is a slightly better option to adjust the z-offset. Under Experimental, you can turn on Advanced and you can specify the z-offset in advance. Better than no option at all to set the z-offset, but as a Creality user we would like to see this easier. After all, Z-offset is material and object dependent. It might be a nice idea to show the viewers how they transform a K1 into a K1C. The firmware seems to have it in it, although I'm not completely sure yet. Greetings and thank you!
Fantastic review as always. I’ve been mulling over buying this thing for a bit now, and thanks to your video I feel a bit more confident that I’m getting something worth the money.
Loved your review. Thank you for mentioning the nozel swapping with pictures. My original k1 Max had so much glue at the cable pin connectors that I could not get them loose. Ended up snapping the thin wire cable. There is no good reason for the adhesive on a connection that is supposed to be easily removed. I sliced my finger on the board edge. Ended up returning it an getting a bambu X1C. I resisted because of the always connected requirements from bambu, but it's the only one I know of that just works. I am glad the new K1 is learning from their past mistakes.
I love these reviews. This one added some practical prints with the film agitation project and that was a great addition. Almost all of my prints are practical parts so this was representative of how I use a 3D printer. I've been waiting for Elegoo to make a Pro version of their Neptune 4 Plus, with steel rollers and rails instead of acetyl V rollers. I need the larger build area for a new product that I'll be printing in ABS or possibly ASA-CF. Hopefully Creality will be launching a K1C Max soon. It'd be more expensive than a Neptune 4 Plus Pro but I wouldn't need to build an enclosure to print high temperature filaments. All I'd need to do is root it and install *real* Klipper and Fluidd, print spacers to raise the lid, and remove the reverse Bowden tube and drill a hole in the lid for top loading filament. I print a lot of TPU and any Bowden tube is a non-starter. I like how I can change the Z offset on the fly in Fluidd and the Neptune 4 Pro remembers it until power is cycled. If I want to make it permanent, I can manually adjust Z offset and save the new value without doing any paper shim probing. Easy. Creality should be offering customers the full power of Klipper and Fluidd and not making their own Kripple Klipper and hiding needed features in Expert mode when they get around to providing those features.
Nice review I missed you guys, I have been busy building a mini Mill to machine my model train engines. This is a nice machine. I use a lot Carbon Fiber in my train parts. Could be useful. After I get the Mini Mill ironed out, I will look at it again. You all take care, Dennis
Very good video with clear and complete explanations. You are experts and (almost) nothing escapes you: the qualities and defects of the machines tested. -- Très bonne vidéo avec des explications claires et complètes. Vous êtes des experts et (presque) rien ne vous échappe : les qualités comme les défauts des machines testées.
Cool that you mention the film cameras. My first camera was the Canon FTb circa 1973. That was followed by the A-1, then the digital age ... 20d, 30D, 40D, 7D and 1DMKIII. :) Lots of high school sports photography for MaxPreps.
Actually it is open and your able to root using no the same name and password from previous printers the other problem with this printer is creality doesn’t have any spare nozzles yet.
Really useful comparison. Good work and lot of information. I would like to ask the lady to examine possibilities for home upgrades which would transform K1 to K1C in the extend of possible. 🥰 Many thank's.
I won a K1C from Crealitys livestream tonight! I am so glad you've got this video up Aurora! lol I was watching just 4 days ago but I just wanted your thoughts on the hot end because its the same as the hot end on my v3! I plan on making a speedboat race video racing the v3 and k1c once I get the k1c! I just wish creality would of put a nozzle wiping strip on the v3 similar to the k1c that woulda been the move!
Looks like the new motors and pulleys fixed the z wobble artifacts Creality should provide a retrofit kit for 1st gen machines ( free of charge to the customer base ) or provide a proper belt tensioner and spring
That's an ingenious solution to film developer agitation - although I'm not sure it's much easier than just inverting the tank at intervals! Mind you, I use Cinestill Monobath, which only requires one set of chemicals and only intermittent agitation.
@@AuroraTech - Yes, I've always been very happy with the results. I don't like messing about with chemicals too much, and too many stages means too many opportunities for me to mess it up! Cinestill just makes it really simple. You just put the liquid into the tank, agitate for 30 seconds, and then for 10 seconds every minute for four minutes. Then rinse, and you're all done. Some purists don't like it, but I always get sharp, perfectly developed negatives. I use it for developing photo paper prints too.
You forgot to mention a couple more downsides like the fact that it doesn't have a full metal extruder or even full metal gears and that nozzle is not hardened steel but steel coated brass . I'm not trying to be negative, just real and i am still thinking about buying this printer
As a long time subscriber your delivery never disappoints. Is the nozzle and heat break one piece or can the nozzles be swapped independently of the heat break? Thank you. 👍👍
Another great video as all of yours are! A couple of questions please, 1, when printing the alpaca, do you print outside walls before inside? and your preference? 2, At the end you showed filter sheets and Herpa filters, do you use these? And do you feel they help?, links? Thanks so much for sharing your great videos with us!
If filament is inside the top cover, it can stay warm and will be easier to swap. If Bowden extruder is put in middle top of printer, heavy direct extruder won't be needed. A very short tube can be used between center mounted bowden and print head. Speed will increase and vibration will go down.
Idk what all they changed but the vfa is helped by going to smaller pulleys on the steppers for x/y. Personally I wish they would help out all of us that bought their flagship instead of just making a new model. Kind of irritating when a company can’t be bothered to fix their existing machine, they just make another one less than a year later.
My first question about the package is, when it arrived at your house, did Creality stick the UPS shipping label on the bottom of the outer box in direct contradiction to the "this side up" arrows on the shipment box?
I can tell you after the issues I've encountered with my Ender 5 S1, which were almost all firmware problems, especially with the bed leveling, I will probably not buy another Creality product. My recommendation to them if they don't want to lose any more customers is to get the printer right before selling it. To this day I can't use bed leveling because they changed the design and I'm forced to use old firmware. I'm pretty sure my next printer will be a bambu lab and the only way I will go back to Creality is if that one sucks and from what i've seen they're great.
I think Creality should’ve came up with a K1 Revo sometimes combining forces of companies will benefit the customers even price might be slightly higher. I’d go for a K1 with Micro Swiss Flow tech or E3D Revo if you’re willing to crimp connectors on.
Meh. They didn't seem to have made necessary changes to motion system - belts not being parallel to each other, so their tension changes depending where the toolhead is, also teethed side of belts still slide on smooth idlers - have fun with resonance and dimensional inaccuracies that Input shaper cannot eliminate. Glass door is a gimmick that's only good for randomly shattering, why bother to reinforce it instead of switching to acrylic one? Cable chain still still makes an "S" so will still pop out the top cover when the toolhead goes near back left corner. They made some improvements, but not where they were needed the most.
I recommend trying different slicers (besides Cura). I've been able to successfully print that sword/katana on almost every printer using PrusaSlicer. However, when using Cura, most of them stuck due to the lack of an option for "aligned" z-seam.
I've been researching my next 3d printer for a couple of months now and have come to respect your opinion more than any of the influencers out there that leave me wondering who has bought their opinions. I thought that I would be able to easily put together the cash for a K1 Max or Qidi X-Max 3 but it looks like I need to lower my expectations. In your opinion would it be better for someone looking to experiment with printing engineering materials to buy a K1 (or K1C) or a Qidi X-Plus 3? Both have their pros and cons and have made my finalist list. Another monkey wrench that I saw last night was the new Phrozen Arco that I can get with a huge discount if I pre-order it. I'd like to wait to hear what you have to say about that printer before making my decision. Keep on making the awesome videos!!
@@AuroraTechwhy are there so many comments saying the extruder isn't metal? Are these trolls trying to dissuade purchase of this printer, or is it true for some of them? I don't understand how the extruder wouldn't be metal. Seems like it would need to be metal to even be able to extrude things at a high temperature?
Question for Aurora, on you go no go gauge everythough about using a metal gauge machined for the tolerance for both inside and outside this way all tests are the same standards this would work for both laser 3D printing along with resin printing. Just my two cents.
I'm sure I saw that someone rooted and the input shaper is still making x and y the same. Also, the MicroSwiss hot end will not work on K1C, so don't buy one until they make one that will.
I cant wait for the review on the new FL SUN machines. I recon their going to be on anouther level.... thing is with all there fast printers you still never get the same quality finish as a regular old CR10 pro v2 or something. There is always a compromise with the fast machines and that is often enough to get complaints from paying customers. Better to have many cheaper slower machines printing top quality than few faster machines printing compromised quality and less strong prints.
Hola makers una pregunta estoy indeciso entre (flashforge adventurer 5m pro) y (creality k1c ) Cual sera mas adecuada en relación precio, respuestos, fallas etc quedaría eternamente agradecido he buscado información pero no logro tomar una decisión gracias.
I just bought the k1c device. I am worried about the overheating of the x and y axis stepper motors. They get very hot after a few hours of work. And I'm very worried that they won't burn from too much heat. Is this my worry? Or should I worry about it?
I have k1 and I can see that the bottom of the first layer in k1c has the same issues as on my k1 after increasing the z offset. With rooted klipper I managed to make it better but still my ender3 has almost perfect first layer.
General Question to all: On the screen under Movement/Temp there are speed options of...Ultrafast 125%, Standard 100%, Stable 50%, and Silent. What print speeds (mm/s) each of these equivalent to??? Also, which of these speeds are recommended for PLA, Hyper PLA, and Carbon.
Will the extruder upgrade in K1C also come to K1 Max? Some users on Reddit wrote that the extruder was changed in the new K1 series. Do you have any information about this? In addition, I think they gave up the Lidar in this printer, which was included in the K1 Max.
Hello, Would you say the better print quality is due to firmware/software updates or the parts that are updated with the K1C? Thanks for a great review !
For the hardware, the metal gear is providing better filament feed, it can handle abrasive filament and print slightly faster with stronger pushing force. The improved print quality is mainly attributed to the input shaper working better, so I would attribute it to 80% firmware and 20% hardware.
@@AuroraTech Thank you for the reply. You have always answered my questions, I really appreciate that you take the time to do so! BTW, best 3D printer channel ever :)
You ALWAYS do a professional and phenomenal job at reviewing these printers/printer accessories... one of the best channels, IMO. I can't fault you for this, but you are on the "3d industry's VIP list" and are able to get your hands on things like that sunlu s4 dryer. I've been trying to find a seller in the USA for over 2 months now. The only people that have them are reviewers. I really wish the industry wouldn't put off the customers as last in thought and a neved ending wallet. Dangling something that the community has been begging for, FOR YEARS now!!! We have been all begging these companies to make larger capacity dryers that at least go up to 80°c! And now, for months, we only see VIP reviewers have them... and absolutely no way for us to get our hands on them for a very, very long time. They will ultimately be sold out for at least a year because again... they dangle this stuff for months and months without an actual plan to make it widely available for us normies. Again, this isn't against you at all. it's against the companies that do this Bs customer last stuff. Sorry for the rant lol
It's dumb to send review units a long time before the products are available. The reviews generate consumer desire. That desire does no good for the manufacturer if they aren't making sales. Unfulfilled consumer demand encourages competitors to fill the demand you created, so it's doubly dumb. My small business prints a lot of TPU. I need a filament dryer with low friction ball bearing rollers that I can wall mount above the machine that feeds out the bottom and runs constantly to keep the filament dry. Bonus points if I can easily retract unused filament back into the dryer when printing other materials.
So if you could only buy one and wanted occasionally to print items in the carbon fiber (which I assume is the strongest and heat resistant) and were on a budget of under $600 would you get the A1 or the K1C?
Thanks for the quick response!! Is that suggestions based on the material that I want to use? Meaning, if I didn’t need to print in petCF would you still say the K1C? Do you think the slicing software that they both use is easy enough for a novice? I just stumbled upon your channel and became a subscriber today. I really like the way you review things as well. Thanks for your help.
This young lady needs a standing ovation, for the info that she gives. She is certainly the one I trust when investigating a new buy.
I agree she does a pretty good job. But It’s not really a review if it’s sponsored by the company.
@@Brandon-jf9cv welcome to 202x
@@Brandon-jf9cvtests are objective so it isn’t a big deal that it’s sponsored since results are publicly shown
Agree and like the cost consideration. As a old man I wonder where she will end up in her career. You know, I knew her when.
What are you using at the moment???
It's not *actually* reviewed until Aurora reviews It !
yeah "review".. more like "here is our product say good things about it and get money if people buy it"
"here comes the agree to whatever it says screen" lol
The best, most in depth reviews on the internet, PERIOD! Outstanding job, you two!
"Here comes the agree whatever it says screen" love it, so true.
You better read that, it says something about turning you into a human centipede...
A lot of other reviewers took the extruder apart and it’s not all metal, it’s a plastic material. Creality has some explaining to do.
Hopefully the parts touching the filament are at least metal. Carbon fiber will destroy plastic.
@@gaxon1920it’s not
@@SeriesDmusic just watched the video. The parts touching the filament are metal, but the gears look like nylon.
May just be a prototype. That’s the thing about review samples, most reviewers will get prototypes and test units. They may function the same, but may not last as long as a consumer unit.
Hopefully that’s the case on the two review units talking about the extruder. I suppose we will find out next month when the first units start shipping.
@@gaxon1920 Why are you constantly trying to get them out of the lie??? You say the marketing department got confused between plastic and metal lol??? Your comments are beyond laughable!!!
The plastic parts aren't just on review machines, it's on all of them.
Creality have changed "all metal extruder" on their website to say something like "clog free extruder" instead.
That's incredible that they would instantly make a new bios file for you that quickly based on your feedback. Kudos to them (and you)
Tried to print my first print last night. I was using the white Hyper-PLA that came with the machine. I calibrated the machine before the print and even extruded some material to make sure it was working. It did two layers (slow layers) but when it went full speed it stopped extruding and I watched as it was printing in thin air nothing coming out of the printer. I paused the print and checked the filament by trying to extrude again and it wouldnt. I then tried to retract and I could hear loud clicking coming from the nozzle but the filament wouldnt retract. I then cancelled the print, had to take the feed tube off of the extrusion module, unlocked it, tried to pull the filament out and it would not come out. Had to get some pliers and pull the filament out. I then removed the nozzle, (about burnt the crap out of my hands that was fun) and got the nozzle off. It was extremely clogged. So now I have to order new nozzles. Still have no idea what I did wrong. Most UA-cam printer tutorials operate from the viewers having a lot of experience with 3D printing. It is hard to find videos that break things down for new printers.
I saw another video where someone suffered the same issue; they had set the nozzle temp too high (250) instead of 210-220 for the PLA
@@KevinKanji Ive been using "default" temp settings in the Creality software but I did get the nozzle upgrade kit and those nozzles have been fine so far with no issues. The only thing I have problems with now is learning how much support is enough for a print and also the Z-Offset is not ideal, the underside of my first layer is very "rough" and stringy but the rest is fine.
@jodycamper8955 I’m also a complete noob to this and was wondering about the z offset. A lot for me to learn!
I have seen a couple of others take the extruder apart and found it was plastic and not all metal. It makes me worry about Creality's honesty in their products. Otherwise, this is a great review. Good job!
creality have confirmed to me today it’s not metal and have now changed the marketing on their website.
@@MadRC this is good. I wonder what they were thinking. Honest mistake? Tried to pull a fast one?
@@ABoxofFail never attribute to malice what can be explained by incompetence 😂
Maybe marketing got confused. I’ve seen very few all metal extruders. That would be a lot of weight on a CoreXY printing at 600mm/s
@@MadRC I have just checked their site out. They are still saying it's an 'all metal extruder'
Always refreshing to have a very matter-of-fact reviewer cut out all the fluff and just give straight answers. It's incredibly helpful for people new to 3d printing!
Your testing and presentation methods has completely won me over. Extremely helpful to me as a complete beginner in the space. The functional component section was especially jaw dropping to show practical use cases. I knew this was possible with 3D printing, but that section alone really inspires and puts into perspective what is possible. Thank you!
First of all: Thank you very much for your excellent review.
As the owner of a regular K1 I can tell you that with the latest firmware it also has an expert menu for adjusting the z-offset. Unfortunately, this can only be done during printing.
Creality slicer has what I think is a slightly better option to adjust the z-offset. Under Experimental, you can turn on Advanced and you can specify the z-offset in advance.
Better than no option at all to set the z-offset, but as a Creality user we would like to see this easier.
After all, Z-offset is material and object dependent.
It might be a nice idea to show the viewers how they transform a K1 into a K1C. The firmware seems to have it in it, although I'm not completely sure yet.
Greetings and thank you!
clean and professionally done review, great job Aurora Lung. 👍🏻
Fantastic review as always. I’ve been mulling over buying this thing for a bit now, and thanks to your video I feel a bit more confident that I’m getting something worth the money.
Such a fantastic channel! Some of the most comprehensive 3D printer reviews in the industry! Keep up the great work!
Loved your review. Thank you for mentioning the nozel swapping with pictures. My original k1 Max had so much glue at the cable pin connectors that I could not get them loose. Ended up snapping the thin wire cable. There is no good reason for the adhesive on a connection that is supposed to be easily removed. I sliced my finger on the board edge. Ended up returning it an getting a bambu X1C. I resisted because of the always connected requirements from bambu, but it's the only one I know of that just works. I am glad the new K1 is learning from their past mistakes.
I love these reviews. This one added some practical prints with the film agitation project and that was a great addition. Almost all of my prints are practical parts so this was representative of how I use a 3D printer.
I've been waiting for Elegoo to make a Pro version of their Neptune 4 Plus, with steel rollers and rails instead of acetyl V rollers. I need the larger build area for a new product that I'll be printing in ABS or possibly ASA-CF. Hopefully Creality will be launching a K1C Max soon. It'd be more expensive than a Neptune 4 Plus Pro but I wouldn't need to build an enclosure to print high temperature filaments. All I'd need to do is root it and install *real* Klipper and Fluidd, print spacers to raise the lid, and remove the reverse Bowden tube and drill a hole in the lid for top loading filament. I print a lot of TPU and any Bowden tube is a non-starter.
I like how I can change the Z offset on the fly in Fluidd and the Neptune 4 Pro remembers it until power is cycled. If I want to make it permanent, I can manually adjust Z offset and save the new value without doing any paper shim probing. Easy. Creality should be offering customers the full power of Klipper and Fluidd and not making their own Kripple Klipper and hiding needed features in Expert mode when they get around to providing those features.
I don't usually comment but this no nonsense clear approach is both informative and easy to follow well done
Thanks for bringing up the reason one would like to run a printer offline 😊. Great video, as always!
I do not use the wifi but I do use ethernet cable because it's more secure. I'm not sure if the K1C has an ethernet jack though.
Nice review I missed you guys, I have been busy building a mini Mill to machine my model train engines. This is a nice machine. I use a lot Carbon Fiber in my train parts. Could be useful. After I get the Mini Mill ironed out, I will look at it again. You all take care, Dennis
I like to see this against the Flashforge M5. Nice job reviewing these printers.
Very good video with clear and complete explanations.
You are experts and (almost) nothing escapes you: the qualities and defects of the machines tested.
--
Très bonne vidéo avec des explications claires et complètes.
Vous êtes des experts et (presque) rien ne vous échappe : les qualités comme les défauts des machines testées.
What a great rewuev! Everything i wanted to know without having to research and watch 50 videos. Excellent job, subscribed.
The review I've been waiting for :)
Great review! One small note, polymaker pa filaments like to be printed below 40c for the bed temperature, so their warp free tech can work properly
realy like the PROS/CONS section, really help me to decide whether to buy or not
Wow! Now i am hyped. Ordered mine today, will arrive in two days. :)
Best review of thisachine ive found yet thank you!!!!
Outstanding review as always.
This kind of detailed demonstration of different structures is very good.
Nice straightforward calm review, just what I was looking for thanks.
Cool that you mention the film cameras. My first camera was the Canon FTb circa 1973. That was followed by the A-1, then the digital age ... 20d, 30D, 40D, 7D and 1DMKIII. :) Lots of high school sports photography for MaxPreps.
fantastic video!! thank you for your extremely in depth review and quality tests!
The Glue Stick that came with the machine!? Unheard of! 😉
Another great video as always 👍😀
Looking as a good price for what you get.
Thanks for sharing your experience with All of us 👍😀
Actually it is open and your able to root using no the same name and password from previous printers the other problem with this printer is creality doesn’t have any spare nozzles yet.
I think many people use your vids as a guide what to buy these days :)
Funny I just checked earlier today to see if you had a review on this yet
Subbed! Fantastic presentation! Keep it up!
Really useful comparison. Good work and lot of information. I would like to ask the lady to examine possibilities for home upgrades which would transform K1 to K1C in the extend of possible. 🥰 Many thank's.
great views. Goid job both Aurora and your brother behins the scenes
I won a K1C from Crealitys livestream tonight!
I am so glad you've got this video up Aurora! lol I was watching just 4 days ago but I just wanted your thoughts on the hot end because its the same as the hot end on my v3!
I plan on making a speedboat race video racing the v3 and k1c once I get the k1c!
I just wish creality would of put a nozzle wiping strip on the v3 similar to the k1c that woulda been the move!
"the agree to whatever it says screen" lol so true.
Looks like the new motors and pulleys fixed the z wobble artifacts
Creality should provide a retrofit kit for 1st gen machines ( free of charge to the customer base ) or provide a proper belt tensioner and spring
You’re the best. Thanks for the review
great review!
Again, you are the best of the best! Love you Aurora! Keep making great videos!!
That's an ingenious solution to film developer agitation - although I'm not sure it's much easier than just inverting the tank at intervals! Mind you, I use Cinestill Monobath, which only requires one set of chemicals and only intermittent agitation.
Maybe I should get a bottle to try it out. Does the result look as good as traditional developer + fixer?
@@AuroraTech - Yes, I've always been very happy with the results. I don't like messing about with chemicals too much, and too many stages means too many opportunities for me to mess it up! Cinestill just makes it really simple. You just put the liquid into the tank, agitate for 30 seconds, and then for 10 seconds every minute for four minutes. Then rinse, and you're all done. Some purists don't like it, but I always get sharp, perfectly developed negatives. I use it for developing photo paper prints too.
Hey Aurora!
I would absolutely love to see you do a review on the new core xz ender 3 v3!
I ordered one and I am super excited for it!
"K1C vs 5M pro"
Guys, which one will you buy if you should choose one of only two printers?
Great review as always, but a huge percentage/number of VERY negative reviews on the dominant US mail-order site prevents me from buying one.
You forgot to mention a couple more downsides like the fact that it doesn't have a full metal extruder or even full metal gears and that nozzle is not hardened steel but steel coated brass . I'm not trying to be negative, just real and i am still thinking about buying this printer
Does that coated brass get corrode?
@Racio00 no, but brass is soft and will wear out very fast
The K1 have also got most of the updates the K1C got, except the for high temp printing.
How would you say this compared to the P1S? P1S Worth the extra $100, or does this work well enough comparatively?
As a long time subscriber your delivery never disappoints. Is the nozzle and heat break one piece or can the nozzles be swapped independently of the heat break? Thank you. 👍👍
Another great video as all of yours are! A couple of questions please, 1, when printing the alpaca, do you print outside walls before inside? and your preference? 2, At the end you showed filter sheets and Herpa filters, do you use these? And do you feel they help?, links? Thanks so much for sharing your great videos with us!
If filament is inside the top cover, it can stay warm and will be easier to swap. If Bowden extruder is put in middle top of printer, heavy direct extruder won't be needed.
A very short tube can be used between center mounted bowden and print head. Speed will increase and vibration will go down.
Very informative review thank you. Do you anticipate the K1 Max getting a similar upgrade?
hi
the k1c have better quality and speed because the firmware is update than k1 no ?
Idk what all they changed but the vfa is helped by going to smaller pulleys on the steppers for x/y. Personally I wish they would help out all of us that bought their flagship instead of just making a new model. Kind of irritating when a company can’t be bothered to fix their existing machine, they just make another one less than a year later.
My first question about the package is, when it arrived at your house, did Creality stick the UPS shipping label on the bottom of the outer box in direct contradiction to the "this side up" arrows on the shipment box?
I can tell you after the issues I've encountered with my Ender 5 S1, which were almost all firmware problems, especially with the bed leveling, I will probably not buy another Creality product. My recommendation to them if they don't want to lose any more customers is to get the printer right before selling it. To this day I can't use bed leveling because they changed the design and I'm forced to use old firmware. I'm pretty sure my next printer will be a bambu lab and the only way I will go back to Creality is if that one sucks and from what i've seen they're great.
Can you tell Creality to make the K1 Pro max with the same specs and also a dual print head.
Aurora asked and Creality delivered new firmware 🙂 - can you ask other companies to improve things like that 🙂
great video ... thank you !
Only issue I have with the K1C is that the drag chain hits the lid when its calibrating and when printing large prints.
I think Creality should’ve came up with a K1 Revo sometimes combining forces of companies will benefit the customers even price might be slightly higher. I’d go for a K1 with Micro Swiss Flow tech or E3D Revo if you’re willing to crimp connectors on.
Im confused. Other trustworthy reviews said it could not print nylon carbon fiber
Meh. They didn't seem to have made necessary changes to motion system - belts not being parallel to each other, so their tension changes depending where the toolhead is, also teethed side of belts still slide on smooth idlers - have fun with resonance and dimensional inaccuracies that Input shaper cannot eliminate.
Glass door is a gimmick that's only good for randomly shattering, why bother to reinforce it instead of switching to acrylic one?
Cable chain still still makes an "S" so will still pop out the top cover when the toolhead goes near back left corner.
They made some improvements, but not where they were needed the most.
I would love you to include an expandable all in one sword print as tests in the future. They are hard to print and fails on lots of printers
I recommend trying different slicers (besides Cura). I've been able to successfully print that sword/katana on almost every printer using PrusaSlicer. However, when using Cura, most of them stuck due to the lack of an option for "aligned" z-seam.
I've been researching my next 3d printer for a couple of months now and have come to respect your opinion more than any of the influencers out there that leave me wondering who has bought their opinions. I thought that I would be able to easily put together the cash for a K1 Max or Qidi X-Max 3 but it looks like I need to lower my expectations. In your opinion would it be better for someone looking to experiment with printing engineering materials to buy a K1 (or K1C) or a Qidi X-Plus 3? Both have their pros and cons and have made my finalist list. Another monkey wrench that I saw last night was the new Phrozen Arco that I can get with a huge discount if I pre-order it. I'd like to wait to hear what you have to say about that printer before making my decision. Keep on making the awesome videos!!
Careful about your agitation speed for dev of film it has a bearing on your final outcome😉
When will you review the Kingroon KLP1?
What do you think is better the k1c, flashforge 5m Pro, or Qidi X-plus 3?
#1 K1C
#2 5M Pro
#3 X-PLUS-3
@AuroraTech thank you very much for letting me know! Also, keep up the great vids!
@@AuroraTechwhy are there so many comments saying the extruder isn't metal? Are these trolls trying to dissuade purchase of this printer, or is it true for some of them? I don't understand how the extruder wouldn't be metal. Seems like it would need to be metal to even be able to extrude things at a high temperature?
Question for Aurora, on you go no go gauge everythough about using a metal gauge machined for the tolerance for both inside and outside this way all tests are the same standards this would work for both laser 3D printing along with resin printing.
Just my two cents.
I'm sure I saw that someone rooted and the input shaper is still making x and y the same. Also, the MicroSwiss hot end will not work on K1C, so don't buy one until they make one that will.
You look like someone between the ages of 12 to 50. Thank you for the video!
With my K1 Max I get 100 c on the build plate🤷♂️it handles TPU,ABS and nylon carbon fiber just fine
I cant wait for the review on the new FL SUN machines. I recon their going to be on anouther level.... thing is with all there fast printers you still never get the same quality finish as a regular old CR10 pro v2 or something. There is always a compromise with the fast machines and that is often enough to get complaints from paying customers. Better to have many cheaper slower machines printing top quality than few faster machines printing compromised quality and less strong prints.
The new enclosed FLSUN printers are 10 grand though 😀
@@SimonCoatesFlsun T1 is 499
Hola makers una pregunta estoy indeciso entre (flashforge adventurer 5m pro) y (creality k1c )
Cual sera mas adecuada en relación precio, respuestos, fallas etc quedaría eternamente agradecido he buscado información pero no logro tomar una decisión gracias.
I just bought the k1c device. I am worried about the overheating of the x and y axis stepper motors. They get very hot after a few hours of work. And I'm very worried that they won't burn from too much heat. Is this my worry? Or should I worry about it?
Here's a newbie question, how effective is the enclosure in minimizing the smell when printing abs or asa ? Is it tolerable? ... Thank you in advance
Hi,
Are you using Orcaslicer with your Creality K1C? Having difficulties with printing a small logo using PETG filament.
Todaaayyyy..... that's my favorite part :-)
I have k1 and I can see that the bottom of the first layer in k1c has the same issues as on my k1 after increasing the z offset. With rooted klipper I managed to make it better but still my ender3 has almost perfect first layer.
What do you think about shipping K1C with "for PLA" build plate, and advertising it with all the other materials at the same time?
General Question to all: On the screen under Movement/Temp there are speed options of...Ultrafast 125%, Standard 100%, Stable 50%, and Silent. What print speeds (mm/s) each of these equivalent to??? Also, which of these speeds are recommended for PLA, Hyper PLA, and Carbon.
People have been reporting that the Creality advertised 'all metal extruder' actually has plastic gears inside. Have you checked yours?
Will the extruder upgrade in K1C also come to K1 Max? Some users on Reddit wrote that the extruder was changed in the new K1 series. Do you have any information about this? In addition, I think they gave up the Lidar in this printer, which was included in the K1 Max.
K1c or Ad5m pro
good job!
Hello,
Would you say the better print quality is due to firmware/software updates or the parts that are updated with the K1C?
Thanks for a great review !
For the hardware, the metal gear is providing better filament feed, it can handle abrasive filament and print slightly faster with stronger pushing force. The improved print quality is mainly attributed to the input shaper working better, so I would attribute it to 80% firmware and 20% hardware.
@@AuroraTech Thank you for the reply. You have always answered my questions, I really appreciate that you take the time to do so! BTW, best 3D printer channel ever :)
@AuroraTech for a beginner choosing between the K1C and Flashforge Adventurer 5M Pro, which would you choose any why?
If I buy the K1C and have any problems.....not a problem. I can simply buy the K1D in about a week.
You ALWAYS do a professional and phenomenal job at reviewing these printers/printer accessories... one of the best channels, IMO. I can't fault you for this, but you are on the "3d industry's VIP list" and are able to get your hands on things like that sunlu s4 dryer. I've been trying to find a seller in the USA for over 2 months now. The only people that have them are reviewers. I really wish the industry wouldn't put off the customers as last in thought and a neved ending wallet. Dangling something that the community has been begging for, FOR YEARS now!!! We have been all begging these companies to make larger capacity dryers that at least go up to 80°c! And now, for months, we only see VIP reviewers have them... and absolutely no way for us to get our hands on them for a very, very long time. They will ultimately be sold out for at least a year because again... they dangle this stuff for months and months without an actual plan to make it widely available for us normies. Again, this isn't against you at all. it's against the companies that do this Bs customer last stuff. Sorry for the rant lol
It's dumb to send review units a long time before the products are available. The reviews generate consumer desire. That desire does no good for the manufacturer if they aren't making sales. Unfulfilled consumer demand encourages competitors to fill the demand you created, so it's doubly dumb. My small business prints a lot of TPU. I need a filament dryer with low friction ball bearing rollers that I can wall mount above the machine that feeds out the bottom and runs constantly to keep the filament dry. Bonus points if I can easily retract unused filament back into the dryer when printing other materials.
My nephew bought one through their (Sunlu) Kickstarter page a couple of months ago. Looks like it can still be ordered from there.
I am you review video for ender 3 v3 ke ❤
I am waiting
Please ender 3 v3 ke review video ❤
do i see some filament stuck in the print head fan?
Is the K1C actually all metal extruder now? lots reported this as false with plastic gears. Just Curious if you checked?
K1c vs bambu A1?
Hello, Do you know if this machine can print silicone flexible parts? I am looking for a solution that will let me create these flexible grommets
So if you could only buy one and wanted occasionally to print items in the carbon fiber (which I assume is the strongest and heat resistant) and were on a budget of under $600 would you get the A1 or the K1C?
A fully enclosed K1C would be a better option.
Thanks for the quick response!! Is that suggestions based on the material that I want to use? Meaning, if I didn’t need to print in petCF would you still say the K1C? Do you think the slicing software that they both use is easy enough for a novice? I just stumbled upon your channel and became a subscriber today. I really like the way you review things as well. Thanks for your help.
Any chance of a P1S review?