Very cool. Great point on getting the tie out off there to not tangle in the snake skin. On those shock cord loops , you can throw a larks head and run the line through. I will do A little video on it.
I have a few tarps but my primary one is a HG DCF with doors. I have looped shock cord tied to the tarp corners. Groundhog minis with reflective cord tied onto them and hook worms to connect to the shock cord. Shock cord and mitten clips to hold the doors in place.
Hey man, I have that same tarp (DW bonded winter wide) and use the linelocs on all of the pullouts. I switched the lines to the 2.2mm Lash-It and they're prefectly snug for those linelocs. With the regular 1.75mm dyneema they slipped all the time, but the 2.2 doesn't slip at all. Easy cheap upgrade and one (or four) less knots to tie after a day of hiking haha
Hi Mark perfect timing for me. Currently I have a continuous ridgeline with wasps and Dutch hook, door pull a mess and a combo of tarp worms and fleas for pull outs. I have been looking at the stingers and based on your video I am going to make a change along with ringworms and double ringworms for doors. Thanks.
One of my fav videos from you and timely. I have three tarps and permanently attached guylines. I can totally relate to your reasoning and I'm glad you shared it. I'm gonna try this decoupling the guylines from the tarp on my next evolution of setup.
You can keep using a CRL if you use something like Nama claws or mini carabiners to attach and detach your tarp from the CRL, while keeping the benefits of the CRL (easier positioning, reducing stress on the tarp seam, IMO). For your line lock hooks, the reason you had so much issue with those is because Reflect-It is too small. I did some testing with different diameters and found that line loc 3s, line lock hooks, clam cleats, and lawson bar tensioners need at least 2.5 mm diameter lines. I still use line lock hooks for my tarp doors, in conjunction with 3/32 in. (2.4 mm) reflective shock cord and this holds fine as it requires less tension to keep the doors closed. It's good to make sure you're matching your hardware with your line diameter. Zing It and Relfect It seem to be Dutch worm territory only. I tried using Dutchware hook worms but found them difficult to use. The ring worms look like a better solution for these lines. Now, if you REALLY want light weight lines with hardware, you can go even smaller. I'm currently testing 1.3 MM REFLECTIVE DUTCH CORD. You can use worms with this line, but you can also use Dutchware Slide locks (which are rated for 1 mm to 3 mm line) and these locks hold the line well in wind! I'll haven't tested the holding power in the rain though. If that fails, I will replace these 4 slide locks with ring worms. Your cord storage solution is interesting. I have mostly avoided lines on stakes because of packability and I would like the adjustment point closer to the tarp in the event it's raining. The slide locks proved to be the easiest to adjust when I'm under the tarp and don't want to go out.
I have a similar setup but use a continuous ridgeline with a Dutchhook, Wasp, and Nama claws. I keep it organized with the Hilltop cord winder. It works really well and is easy to setup and takedown without tangles. My only source of unhappiness with my current setup is the side pullouts. I feel like there should be a better way to manage it but haven’t found it yet.
@@SpiguyverBackpacking1 yes. I currently have the line on the tarp (like in your video) attached to D-rings with a bowline. I have an alpine butterfly in the middle of the rope and wrap the middle around my trekking pole. I then use the ringworm to attach to the butterfly and stake. It works but it’s not as elegant. I knot some shockcord between stake and pole to give a little elasticity. I wish there was a more modular was of doing this. I hate the line on the tarp - maybe attach line with clip instead of bowline?
Yeah, that's going to be the next thing I tackle. I use my trekking poles on it, I think some simple shock cord loops on each side will be what I need.
@@SpiguyverBackpacking1 I have a prussik attached to the pullout, that I run a shock cord through. Attach the end of the shock cord to a pole (or out to a tree or something) and pull through the prussik to tighten it up. Works like a charm.
So I finally got around to experimenting with the ideas you presented here. The only diff is I really want to keep using the continuous ridgeline. So I'll deploy the ridgeline then attach the tarp to it. After some tinkering, I ended up larksheading a very small evo loop on each end of the tarp which basically makes the tarp's ridgeline connection point a big fat dyneema knot, so I could rapidly attach/detach each to the dangling loops of the much thinner-lined prussics already on the ridgleine. Everything else pretty much mimics what you showed in the video. Thanks because I think this was a great evolution for me. Now I can easily switch tarps using the same supporting components.
I have my stake setup just like you're going to. Just wind em up and go on breakdown each morning. I put the shockcord on all my tarp pullouts permanently. So all I have to do is grab 6-8 of my prefab stake/pullouts and throw them in the pack. I got my pullouts and shockcord from Jeff Myers and my suspension from Dutch. Been very satisfied with products from both.
After getting home yesterday I went ahead and got the stakes fully set up with the lines attached to them, then wound around the stakes and put in the organizer. Works really well.
Thanks Mark, I plan to change my tarp hardware from Dutchware. I have wanting to change my ridgeline out for sometime and have been using tarp worms and tarp flyz for pull outs. Actually, the tarp flyz are pretty good.
In line shock cord to tarp beasties and taut line hitch around stake - fast, easy, adjustable and light as possible. Lay guys into tarp as you roll up for snakeskin. This is the way.
I've never heard of the door specific ringworm option. Guess im gonna throw more money at dutch cause thats gonna clean up my whole tarp door situation nicely. Thanks guy
For what it’s worth, I’m 50/50 on these. Only used once but I kept forgetting they were there. My thoughts on it were that I got 2 extra stakes for the cost of the 4 shock cord/mitten hooks. Downside is that permanent open doors are not as easy and I’m not use to the setup yet
I’ve tried both the old and new system you described, and I’m sticking with the older system. I like having the pullouts on the tarp because the stakes take up less room in my bag when stored. Also, if I lose a stake I don’t lose the cordage as well. This also makes it easier if I use a tree to tie off a pullout instead of a stake. Finally, when I loan out a tarp, say for my daughter, I know everything is already attached and all she needs are stakes. How you’re spending $100 per tarp on cordage is beyond me.including a continuous ridgeline with wasp, I spend maybe $25 on cordage and hardware when I splice my own.
The Stingers are $16 each with line, the Ringworms with line are $11 each, and the double Ringworms with line are $10.50 each, so the total is $97. This still doesn't address the side panel pullouts.
@@SpiguyverBackpacking1 for hardware I only need 1 wasp, 4 line locks, and 5 clips for the doors and ridgeline, comes out to $17.48. A 180 ft spool of ZingIt is $29 which comes out to $0.17 per foot. If I use 1/3 of the roll for tieouts and ridgeline, that adds a little under $10. Using Lawson Glowire adds only a couple more, especially if I just use it for tieouts.
Nice video. I don't like the guy lines in the snakeskin too. So I use LineLoc hooks from Dutchware. I keep the guy lines with the LineLoc hooks in a bag. The shock cord stays on the tarp ends.
@@SpiguyverBackpacking1 It's working out ok. I'm using Stingerz with ZingIt but I think I need to make it longer for the huge trees here. I might switch to Wasps too. I used the Hook Latch Splicing Needles with ZingIt to make loops or buried ends. Pretty handy. I really like how you worked out the doors. The double hook ringworm looks great.
@@SpiguyverBackpacking1 Thanks for the inspiration. I dusted off the tools and redid my tarp ridgeline. I measured the old one and it was only around 10' per side. I spliced a loop with the Stingerz on there and made them 20 feet per each side now 😄Should be long enough for redwoods. I originally bought the tools and a spool of ZingIt to make my own bear bag food line. Then started to make a bunch of soft shackles. Those are really handy. I use them as like a carabiner replacement or prusik loops that can be opened. Great to attach to tools, Cnoc bag, or on the hammock ridgeline in a prusik knot.
Nice setup Mark. I use the same system on my wide and winter tarps. The Dutchware snakeskins have pockets in the ends that I use to coil and store the Stinger lines in. For my summer dyneema tarp, I still use attached JRB self-tensioning lines with a taught line hitch. I have had groundhogs fail in some of the rocky PA areas, so I switched to the 8 inch DAC Y stakes that Dutch carries. I've never had a structural failure or ground pull failure with these.
I have almost the exact same setup. Tangled lines drive me crazy! I like my stingers as well. I tried the continuous ridgeline but that added weight and never really liked the separate line. Do you have the wide bonded winter tarp?
Tangled lines are the worst, I like a simple, quick setup when I get to camp and having to pause to untangle sucks, but it sucks more when it's raining! Yes, I have the wide bonded winter.
I've enjoyed and found your videos helpful. (the few I've watched) It would be more helpful is the fiddly bits were in focus. Thanks for the informative content.
Mark, you did not specifically say so but is your DW winter tarp the WIDE version? I would assume so but would like confirmation as I too am considering one of Bill Townsend's Just a Bridge hammocks.
ua-cam.com/video/OhJnKKw1k3U/v-deo.htmlsi=4ZVE5tZ47RyloeAF you can use a loop alien like a carabiner instead of the stinger, one advantage is the wire gate and hook on the stinger don't tear into the mesh
Very cool. Great point on getting the tie out off there to not tangle in the snake skin. On those shock cord loops , you can throw a larks head and run the line through. I will do A little video on it.
love the setup, keep the vids coming
I have a few tarps but my primary one is a HG DCF with doors. I have looped shock cord tied to the tarp corners. Groundhog minis with reflective cord tied onto them and hook worms to connect to the shock cord. Shock cord and mitten clips to hold the doors in place.
Hey man, I have that same tarp (DW bonded winter wide) and use the linelocs on all of the pullouts. I switched the lines to the 2.2mm Lash-It and they're prefectly snug for those linelocs. With the regular 1.75mm dyneema they slipped all the time, but the 2.2 doesn't slip at all. Easy cheap upgrade and one (or four) less knots to tie after a day of hiking haha
Bought the same setup for our bonded tarps. All kinds of room in my 13' bonded for the Townsend.
Absolutely love the Ringworms and stingerz. So easy!
Right on, good to hear this setup is working out for others as well.
Hi Mark perfect timing for me. Currently I have a continuous ridgeline with wasps and Dutch hook, door pull a mess and a combo of tarp worms and fleas for pull outs. I have been looking at the stingers and based on your video I am going to make a change along with ringworms and double ringworms for doors. Thanks.
Great ideas here! I'll be making a few changes!!! Thanks Mark!
Great video man!
Thanks Jacob!
One of my fav videos from you and timely. I have three tarps and permanently attached guylines. I can totally relate to your reasoning and I'm glad you shared it. I'm gonna try this decoupling the guylines from the tarp on my next evolution of setup.
You can keep using a CRL if you use something like Nama claws or mini carabiners to attach and detach your tarp from the CRL, while keeping the benefits of the CRL (easier positioning, reducing stress on the tarp seam, IMO).
For your line lock hooks, the reason you had so much issue with those is because Reflect-It is too small. I did some testing with different diameters and found that line loc 3s, line lock hooks, clam cleats, and lawson bar tensioners need at least 2.5 mm diameter lines. I still use line lock hooks for my tarp doors, in conjunction with 3/32 in. (2.4 mm) reflective shock cord and this holds fine as it requires less tension to keep the doors closed.
It's good to make sure you're matching your hardware with your line diameter. Zing It and Relfect It seem to be Dutch worm territory only.
I tried using Dutchware hook worms but found them difficult to use. The ring worms look like a better solution for these lines.
Now, if you REALLY want light weight lines with hardware, you can go even smaller. I'm currently testing 1.3 MM REFLECTIVE DUTCH CORD. You can use worms with this line, but you can also use Dutchware Slide locks (which are rated for 1 mm to 3 mm line) and these locks hold the line well in wind! I'll haven't tested the holding power in the rain though. If that fails, I will replace these 4 slide locks with ring worms.
Your cord storage solution is interesting. I have mostly avoided lines on stakes because of packability and I would like the adjustment point closer to the tarp in the event it's raining. The slide locks proved to be the easiest to adjust when I'm under the tarp and don't want to go out.
Please example or two of a 2.5mm line.
I have a similar setup but use a continuous ridgeline with a Dutchhook, Wasp, and Nama claws. I keep it organized with the Hilltop cord winder. It works really well and is easy to setup and takedown without tangles.
My only source of unhappiness with my current setup is the side pullouts. I feel like there should be a better way to manage it but haven’t found it yet.
I have used the Nama Claws on a continuous Ridgeline in the past and they work great. Are you talking about the panel pulls on each side midway up?
@@SpiguyverBackpacking1 yes. I currently have the line on the tarp (like in your video) attached to D-rings with a bowline. I have an alpine butterfly in the middle of the rope and wrap the middle around my trekking pole. I then use the ringworm to attach to the butterfly and stake. It works but it’s not as elegant. I knot some shockcord between stake and pole to give a little elasticity.
I wish there was a more modular was of doing this. I hate the line on the tarp - maybe attach line with clip instead of bowline?
Yeah, that's going to be the next thing I tackle. I use my trekking poles on it, I think some simple shock cord loops on each side will be what I need.
@@SpiguyverBackpacking1 I have a prussik attached to the pullout, that I run a shock cord through. Attach the end of the shock cord to a pole (or out to a tree or something) and pull through the prussik to tighten it up. Works like a charm.
So I finally got around to experimenting with the ideas you presented here. The only diff is I really want to keep using the continuous ridgeline. So I'll deploy the ridgeline then attach the tarp to it. After some tinkering, I ended up larksheading a very small evo loop on each end of the tarp which basically makes the tarp's ridgeline connection point a big fat dyneema knot, so I could rapidly attach/detach each to the dangling loops of the much thinner-lined prussics already on the ridgleine. Everything else pretty much mimics what you showed in the video. Thanks because I think this was a great evolution for me. Now I can easily switch tarps using the same supporting components.
I have my stake setup just like you're going to. Just wind em up and go on breakdown each morning. I put the shockcord on all my tarp pullouts permanently. So all I have to do is grab 6-8 of my prefab stake/pullouts and throw them in the pack. I got my pullouts and shockcord from Jeff Myers and my suspension from Dutch. Been very satisfied with products from both.
After getting home yesterday I went ahead and got the stakes fully set up with the lines attached to them, then wound around the stakes and put in the organizer. Works really well.
Thanks Mark, I plan to change my tarp hardware from Dutchware. I have wanting to change my ridgeline out for sometime and have been using tarp worms and tarp flyz for pull outs. Actually, the tarp flyz are pretty good.
In line shock cord to tarp beasties and taut line hitch around stake - fast, easy, adjustable and light as possible. Lay guys into tarp as you roll up for snakeskin. This is the way.
I've never heard of the door specific ringworm option. Guess im gonna throw more money at dutch cause thats gonna clean up my whole tarp door situation nicely. Thanks guy
I know what you mean, Dutch showed me and I had to have them!
For what it’s worth, I’m 50/50 on these. Only used once but I kept forgetting they were there. My thoughts on it were that I got 2 extra stakes for the cost of the 4 shock cord/mitten hooks. Downside is that permanent open doors are not as easy and I’m not use to the setup yet
I’ve tried both the old and new system you described, and I’m sticking with the older system. I like having the pullouts on the tarp because the stakes take up less room in my bag when stored. Also, if I lose a stake I don’t lose the cordage as well. This also makes it easier if I use a tree to tie off a pullout instead of a stake. Finally, when I loan out a tarp, say for my daughter, I know everything is already attached and all she needs are stakes.
How you’re spending $100 per tarp on cordage is beyond me.including a continuous ridgeline with wasp, I spend maybe $25 on cordage and hardware when I splice my own.
The Stingers are $16 each with line, the Ringworms with line are $11 each, and the double Ringworms with line are $10.50 each, so the total is $97. This still doesn't address the side panel pullouts.
I completely understand they why for keeping the lines on the tarp. Each use case might be different.
@@SpiguyverBackpacking1 for hardware I only need 1 wasp, 4 line locks, and 5 clips for the doors and ridgeline, comes out to $17.48. A 180 ft spool of ZingIt is $29 which comes out to $0.17 per foot. If I use 1/3 of the roll for tieouts and ridgeline, that adds a little under $10. Using Lawson Glowire adds only a couple more, especially if I just use it for tieouts.
Nice video. I don't like the guy lines in the snakeskin too. So I use LineLoc hooks from Dutchware. I keep the guy lines with the LineLoc hooks in a bag. The shock cord stays on the tarp ends.
Sounds like you've got it dialed!
@@SpiguyverBackpacking1 It's working out ok. I'm using Stingerz with ZingIt but I think I need to make it longer for the huge trees here. I might switch to Wasps too. I used the Hook Latch Splicing Needles with ZingIt to make loops or buried ends. Pretty handy.
I really like how you worked out the doors. The double hook ringworm looks great.
Awesome that you're doing some of the line work yourself, I haven't attempted any of that.
@@SpiguyverBackpacking1 Thanks for the inspiration. I dusted off the tools and redid my tarp ridgeline. I measured the old one and it was only around 10' per side. I spliced a loop with the Stingerz on there and made them 20 feet per each side now 😄Should be long enough for redwoods.
I originally bought the tools and a spool of ZingIt to make my own bear bag food line. Then started to make a bunch of soft shackles. Those are really handy. I use them as like a carabiner replacement or prusik loops that can be opened. Great to attach to tools, Cnoc bag, or on the hammock ridgeline in a prusik knot.
Nice setup Mark. I use the same system on my wide and winter tarps. The Dutchware snakeskins have pockets in the ends that I use to coil and store the Stinger lines in. For my summer dyneema tarp, I still use attached JRB self-tensioning lines with a taught line hitch. I have had groundhogs fail in some of the rocky PA areas, so I switched to the 8 inch DAC Y stakes that Dutch carries. I've never had a structural failure or ground pull failure with these.
Thanks for the input Scott. I have never had any failures with the groundhogs, but I'll keep an eye out as I do more in PA.
try using nama claws and shock cord on your tarp guylines as well. very easy to setup and adjust.
And I thought Dutch used internal tarp tensioners Mark! I like them the best, no tangles no mess....
I have almost the exact same setup. Tangled lines drive me crazy! I like my stingers as well. I tried the continuous ridgeline but that added weight and never really liked the separate line. Do you have the wide bonded winter tarp?
Tangled lines are the worst, I like a simple, quick setup when I get to camp and having to pause to untangle sucks, but it sucks more when it's raining! Yes, I have the wide bonded winter.
I've enjoyed and found your videos helpful. (the few I've watched) It would be more helpful is the fiddly bits were in focus. Thanks for the informative content.
I'll do better to get those in focus going forward. Thanks for the feedback, and thanks for watching!
How may I use your new system with linelocs attached to my tarp pullouts?
Nice, man! How do you like those bags? I’m looking at Swift for my setup.
Perhaps a video of setup start to finish
I can work on that!
Mark, you did not specifically say so but is your DW winter tarp the WIDE version? I would assume so but would like confirmation as I too am considering one of Bill Townsend's Just a Bridge hammocks.
ua-cam.com/video/OhJnKKw1k3U/v-deo.htmlsi=4ZVE5tZ47RyloeAF you can use a loop alien like a carabiner instead of the stinger, one advantage is the wire gate and hook on the stinger don't tear into the mesh
Starts about 7:00