Like a lot of AR owners, I'm a tinkerer, and I'm constantly swapping out parts and experimenting. It always annoyed me that swapping stocks, end plates, etc. would result in that detent spring flying out or getting in the way. I tried this yesterday, and the results are great! I wish I'd known about this years ago. It's so easy and really convenient. The tools are cheap, too.
😂🤣😂🤣 This video just showed up in my recommended. I thought to myself "Dad and I have been doing this to ARs since I was 10 (I'm currently 36)". I'm glad that this little hack has picked up in popularity. It's very useful. An added benefit is that *IF* you run the tap further in, you can increase or decrease the tension on the spring, which makes the takedown pin looser or tighter to move. Basically it can remove slop from older lowers. Good if your lower is well worn and the pin jiggles unwantedly. Also, with a different sized tap, you can do this to the safety selector as well, keeping the spring contained within the lower instead of housed in the grip. Another small improvement to consider.
To anyone doing this. It is very easy and very nice touch to an AR build. Just be overly careful not to cross thread or force the set screw in. If you strip the set screw head and it gets stuck, you have a big problem. The set screw should go in smoothly and extremely easily. Meaning you should not feel any resistance when turning set screw. If you do, back out and try again, or try another set screw. These set screws are extremely small and the threads are not always the best. I went through several of the set screws I had until I found one that went in perfectly with no resistance. Again, DON’T force the set screw in. You will regret it if you do!!!
Great idea and funny how I found your video......I realized last night that after 15 of tinkering with the AR platform Im def still a newb..lol! I was installing a law tactical side folder and a Vltor A5 buffer set up on a newly SBR'd BAD workhorse. After backing off the castle nut and plate, watching carefully for the pesky spring not to launch.....there was no spring??? The takedown detent/spring hole is threaded and has a tiny screw behind the detent and spring so you dont have to worry about it flying out during disassembly/assembly. I hadnt seen that on any of my other lowers, so of course until looking into it on the BAD site i was on the ground with a flashlight.....what should have queud me in was the takedown pin was functioning fine...anyway live and learn.
Thanks, FunWithPaul! When I read the title I thought 'Why didn't I think of that?!'. Many of the best ideas seem SO simple, AFTER somebody tells you about them. All I have to add is that I'm going to tap quite a bit deeper, then use blue locktite to hold the setscrew; that way I can adjust the detent tension after I cut the spring. This is one of those rare things that will make my AR-15s more enjoyable (a little) at no cost! Thanks again!!
Awesome video. Glad this showed up in my recommended list. I thought of doing this, but didn't know it was actually a thing. I'm gonna have to give it a shot. I have a 47 piece tap and die set, pretty sure that I have the one I need. A dab of grease or Vaseline on the tip of your driver will hold the lil set screw in place. It's a trick that we use in the RC world, and works quite well. You don't wanna slather it on there, just a tiny little bit does the trick. Of course, if you do use too much, it just squirts out around the head of the set screw (grub screw to the RC world) and makes a wee bit of a mess. I also drape a towel or gun mat down, to help cut down on the bouncing.
I know it's been a while since this video, but I appreciate it (the video) because I'd been thinking about doing it but didn't know any of the sizes on any of it. Thank You.
I finally did this on our latest build and it really is a nice mod. Thanks for the video and info about the size I needed to find. Now I have to go and do it to all the other MSR's I have built..LOL
Feels like another solution looking for a problem. It doesn't really solve any problem, but does add more small parts that can get lost and requires additional tools.
Once you put it in, the chances of you ever needing to remove it are slim to none. The detent isn't part of field level maintenance. Also, the takedown pins can be still be swapped without removing the buttstock if you decide to change them. But this WILL make swapping out stocks a far quicker process. Also, if you run an A2 style stock and it snaps, you won't lose the spring, detent, and pin as well. It's more for convenience, but it does fix a potential failure point. You can also do this to the safety selector detent, but it requires a different sized tap and screw... again, not field level maintenance, but it does fix a potential failure point (if your grip snaps). I've yet to see a piece of plastic or polymer that is absolutely failure proof, at least when compared to metals. And I have seen stocks and grips break from impact before. They may be durable as fuck, but they aren't indestructible. Shit does happen.
I have one AR where the receiver itself is tapped. I like this because I can take off the rear plate without worrying about the spring going somewhere. However, I like your idea as well, as usually the back plate is made of steel, instead of aluminum, which I think would be less likely to strip. Interesting alternative.
After watching this, I did this to all of my lowers. Simply clip the spring down a bit and no problem. Total cost to do them all? About five bucks, with left over set screws. Most expensive part was the tap, 4 bucks at Lowes. I used a magnetized bit so I didn't lose the set screw if it fell off.
You should cut off the length of the set screw from the spring measured in the COMPRESSED state. That means for the relaxed spring it will be 1.5-2 times longer than the screw. Easy, right?
Brilliant! Finally someone came up with a GREAT idea! You should provide a link of where to buy the items. Make this idiot proof. Thank you very much!!
Here's a tip lay a light colored towel down on the table that way if things do fall and drop they don't bounce and roll and they will stick out like a sore thumb against the backdrop of that light colored towel
does this do anything outside of making the spring easier to control in takedown of the buffer tube? is there any other functional reason for it, it seems like if you do this its a risk to your reciever more that replacing a spring? is there an advantage im not ssing, or im i just a nervous nelly? lol
jayonez13 , Just bought my Spikes lower less than a month ago. Just finished putting lower parts kit on and noticed that my lower was also already tapped for set screw. Saves us a step. Thanks Spikes!
details details... It is a 4-40 set screw (if you don't know what that is, you shouldn't be doing this). The correct word is gall (bind). What do you call the handle that holds a die? One is a TAP holder, one is a DIE holder.
You are right, you probably don't. I think it will back out if the spring is pushing on it, but only as far as the stock or the receiver end plate. Someone suggested using locktight. That might help with the stainless vs aluminum corrosion issue also... (as would grease) I just figured an interference fit would stop it from loosening. Let me know what you find... Thanks for the question!
How? When most of the spring is held in the grip. Wouldn’t shortening the spring that much put to much pressure on the movement of the safety. I’m just saying.
Or just buy an Aero/BA enhanced lower receiver. One trip to McMaster and I’m ready to build another 24 AR’s While you’re at Lowe’s or HD getting your tap and set screw, get yourself a Clevis pin for another $0.50 to install the front takedown pin.
No. The lower has the hole and you tap it. The end plate (carbine) or not (rifle) does not matter. That is the point of this mod. The spring stays in the lower receiver even if you remove the stock.
My back detent spring won't fit into the hole. The detent goes fine but the spring hangs up on the threads. Push as I may it will not enter and I don't want to buy another spring, it appears for the most part they just slide in. Any help?
LOL yeah I forgot about this. I had the detent spring in my safety and I went back to my dealer to ask him, and he said that that's probably what I did, they appear similar but ones definitely larger. I was to eager to put it together I guess I didn't notice. But runs like a beauty. Topped it off with a psa upper, love it.
Question: if that spring is shortened & no screw is add , what kind of problems will you have......... cycling issues? ...... I'm guessing & I'm asking at the same time
Just go on McMaster-Carr, they stock everything you need. I bought a couple taps and a handle along with a bag of 50 cone point screws several years ago, I have done this modification to like a dozen ARs. I use a small chisel and hammer to shorten the springs, because spring steel will screw up many cutters. There are sellers on eBay who do sell a kit marked up far more than you're gonna pay not buying as a kit.
Yep, Little Crow Gunworks, $13 for the kit and $8 for their "small tap wrench". www.littlecrowgunworks.com/store1/DSM-Detent-Spring-Modification-Tool-p106089767
@@vbrtrmn Trying to price out what you can get on McM-C if you don't have a tap, holder or hex head driver. Been on their site for the last half hour, (it's probably Tim the Toolman's heaven) and they have a TON of stuff; can't find the correct size tap (dozens of options) or a holder but did find a nice precision tool kit that'll put my Wheeler Engineering 'gunsmithing' kit to shame and a 50 count of the screws are $6.10. For someone that only plans on doing a few of these, the Little Crow kit and a tap holder is $21. One and done.
You are right, SS and alu will corrode the alu, and a nylon screw would do the job, if you can find a 4-40 nylon set screw. If you put any anti-sieze or even grease on the threads, it will eliminate the galvanic corrosion, so getting stuck won't be a problem.
Yes. I have an "ultra lite" rifle that has this, no end plate and a rifle buffer tube with just a flat shoulder stock on the end (sorry, can't remember the name)
If you know anything about springs...gun springs in particular, after you cut coils off and shorten them you also weaken them at the same time. It may not hurt anything but be aware it doesn't have the tension it once did unmodified. I think I would classify this in the "over engineered" category IMO.
after launching my 2nd spring into space this the best idea I have seen in awhile
I bought a bag of spares! LOL!
So many builds. So many lost or bent springs. I just ordered everything he listed at the start.
Like a lot of AR owners, I'm a tinkerer, and I'm constantly swapping out parts and experimenting. It always annoyed me that swapping stocks, end plates, etc. would result in that detent spring flying out or getting in the way. I tried this yesterday, and the results are great! I wish I'd known about this years ago. It's so easy and really convenient. The tools are cheap, too.
You were so ahead of the game.. now there are manufacturers doing exactly this on their lowers...
😂🤣😂🤣 This video just showed up in my recommended. I thought to myself "Dad and I have been doing this to ARs since I was 10 (I'm currently 36)". I'm glad that this little hack has picked up in popularity. It's very useful. An added benefit is that *IF* you run the tap further in, you can increase or decrease the tension on the spring, which makes the takedown pin looser or tighter to move. Basically it can remove slop from older lowers. Good if your lower is well worn and the pin jiggles unwantedly. Also, with a different sized tap, you can do this to the safety selector as well, keeping the spring contained within the lower instead of housed in the grip. Another small improvement to consider.
Do you change the spring rate for the safety selector? (as cutting it to the lower length will remove most of its spring action)
When I did this, I cleaned the channel with a pipe cleaner to remove debris. Good VDO - Thank You.
To anyone doing this. It is very easy and very nice touch to an AR build. Just be overly careful not to cross thread or force the set screw in. If you strip the set screw head and it gets stuck, you have a big problem. The set screw should go in smoothly and extremely easily. Meaning you should not feel any resistance when turning set screw. If you do, back out and try again, or try another set screw. These set screws are extremely small and the threads are not always the best. I went through several of the set screws I had until I found one that went in perfectly with no resistance. Again, DON’T force the set screw in. You will regret it if you do!!!
I stripped it.
@@TheRealCharlemagne bogus ☹️
I was about to force one in but decided not to. I said fuck it and my end cap holds in on. But after this video I now know the correct way loll.
Great idea and funny how I found your video......I realized last night that after 15 of tinkering with the AR platform Im def still a newb..lol! I was installing a law tactical side folder and a Vltor A5 buffer set up on a newly SBR'd BAD workhorse. After backing off the castle nut and plate, watching carefully for the pesky spring not to launch.....there was no spring??? The takedown detent/spring hole is threaded and has a tiny screw behind the detent and spring so you dont have to worry about it flying out during disassembly/assembly. I hadnt seen that on any of my other lowers, so of course until looking into it on the BAD site i was on the ground with a flashlight.....what should have queud me in was the takedown pin was functioning fine...anyway live and learn.
I could envision this
Thanks, FunWithPaul! When I read the title I thought 'Why didn't I think of that?!'. Many of the best ideas seem SO simple, AFTER somebody tells you about them. All I have to add is that I'm going to tap quite a bit deeper, then use blue locktite to hold the setscrew; that way I can adjust the detent tension after I cut the spring.
This is one of those rare things that will make my AR-15s more enjoyable (a little) at no cost! Thanks again!!
Awesome video. Glad this showed up in my recommended list. I thought of doing this, but didn't know it was actually a thing. I'm gonna have to give it a shot. I have a 47 piece tap and die set, pretty sure that I have the one I need.
A dab of grease or Vaseline on the tip of your driver will hold the lil set screw in place. It's a trick that we use in the RC world, and works quite well. You don't wanna slather it on there, just a tiny little bit does the trick. Of course, if you do use too much, it just squirts out around the head of the set screw (grub screw to the RC world) and makes a wee bit of a mess. I also drape a towel or gun mat down, to help cut down on the bouncing.
Aero Precision does this to all their lowers.
I know it's been a while since this video, but I appreciate it (the video) because I'd been thinking about doing it but didn't know any of the sizes on any of it. Thank You.
Thank Paul. This video was detailed straight to the point and very helpful.
I finally did this on our latest build and it really is a nice mod. Thanks for the video and info about the size I needed to find.
Now I have to go and do it to all the other MSR's I have built..LOL
Now aero precision makes the M4E1
The important part is do this on a towel so things don’t “bounce around “
Good vid
Feels like another solution looking for a problem. It doesn't really solve any problem, but does add more small parts that can get lost and requires additional tools.
Once you put it in, the chances of you ever needing to remove it are slim to none. The detent isn't part of field level maintenance. Also, the takedown pins can be still be swapped without removing the buttstock if you decide to change them. But this WILL make swapping out stocks a far quicker process. Also, if you run an A2 style stock and it snaps, you won't lose the spring, detent, and pin as well. It's more for convenience, but it does fix a potential failure point. You can also do this to the safety selector detent, but it requires a different sized tap and screw... again, not field level maintenance, but it does fix a potential failure point (if your grip snaps). I've yet to see a piece of plastic or polymer that is absolutely failure proof, at least when compared to metals. And I have seen stocks and grips break from impact before. They may be durable as fuck, but they aren't indestructible. Shit does happen.
Only thing I would add is to use a can of compressed air and blow out any chips left in the hole
Very easy job. Took me about 20-25 minutes total time. Very worthwhile upgrade. Just spray some compressed air there to clear out any filings.
I did mine,they save a lot of headache in the long run.
Good info, thanks! I use a plastic bag when installing the detent springs. It's a pain but worth it to save the you from the frustrations.
thank you! That video really helped me out
Did mine kool tip thx
Nicely presented.Better than spending $25 on a one time kit.
I have one AR where the receiver itself is tapped. I like this because I can take off the rear plate without worrying about the spring going somewhere. However, I like your idea as well, as usually the back plate is made of steel, instead of aluminum, which I think would be less likely to strip. Interesting alternative.
This is why i buy Aero lowers
very well done! well thought out. Thanks
After watching this, I did this to all of my lowers.
Simply clip the spring down a bit and no problem.
Total cost to do them all? About five bucks, with left over set screws. Most expensive part was the tap, 4 bucks at Lowes.
I used a magnetized bit so I didn't lose the set screw if it fell off.
Should you not just cut the spring just the length of the set screw to maintain the correct spring tension
You should cut off the length of the set screw from the spring measured in the COMPRESSED state. That means for the relaxed spring it will be 1.5-2 times longer than the screw. Easy, right?
Brilliant! Finally someone came up with a GREAT idea! You should provide a link of where to buy the items. Make this idiot proof. Thank you very much!!
Exactly, the that spring been giving me hell when I’m tryna put the folding stock on my AR..
Aero Precision lowers are Threaded.
The AP M5 has this hole under the pistol grip and is already threaded. I wonder what size screws it will take?
Thanks for the info.
Great idea, thanks
Here's a tip lay a light colored towel down on the table that way if things do fall and drop they don't bounce and roll and they will stick out like a sore thumb against the backdrop of that light colored towel
does this do anything outside of making the spring easier to control in takedown of the buffer tube? is there any other functional reason for it, it seems like if you do this its a risk to your reciever more that replacing a spring? is there an advantage im not ssing, or im i just a nervous nelly? lol
good video thanks
3:30... STOP! Now run a pipe cleaner through the hole to clean out any debris. Now proceed with the rest of the installation.
I wonder if you can do that on the safety to
That's a interesting idea.
My newest Spikes lower already comes tapped for rear detent.
Awesome! Then trim the spring and install a set screw, and you are done!
jayonez13 , Just bought my Spikes lower less than a month ago. Just finished putting lower parts kit on and noticed that my lower was also already tapped for set screw. Saves us a step. Thanks Spikes!
nice 👍
No... It's a size #4 diameter, and 40 threads per inch... It won't "bind"... Aluminum will "gaul"... And the "holder" is a tap "T-Handle"
details details...
It is a 4-40 set screw (if you don't know what that is, you shouldn't be doing this). The correct word is gall (bind). What do you call the handle that holds a die?
One is a TAP holder, one is a DIE holder.
This should be OEM.
Why do you need the setscrew bottomed out? I can't imagine vibration tightening it against the spring and the stock will keep it from backing out.
You are right, you probably don't.
I think it will back out if the spring is pushing on it, but only as far as the stock or the receiver end plate.
Someone suggested using locktight. That might help with the stainless vs aluminum corrosion issue also... (as would grease)
I just figured an interference fit would stop it from loosening.
Let me know what you find...
Thanks for the question!
I also did my safety detent too.
same size?
How? When most of the spring is held in the grip. Wouldn’t shortening the spring that much put to much pressure on the movement of the safety. I’m just saying.
@@noretreat2074 I agree. I didn't do any of my safety selector springs with a set screw (because most of the spring lives in the grip)
Thanks.
Great Idea.....I wonder why it cannot be done at the Factory??
Some lower manufacturers do this for you,
some don't.
Or just buy an Aero/BA enhanced lower receiver. One trip to McMaster and I’m ready to build another 24 AR’s
While you’re at Lowe’s or HD getting your tap and set screw, get yourself a Clevis pin for another $0.50 to install the front takedown pin.
1/4"clevis pins are now $2.49 8/22
Did the end plate come with the hole for the spring or did you drill it?
Please answer this question, I too wants to know
No. The lower has the hole and you tap it. The end plate (carbine) or not (rifle) does not matter. That is the point of this mod. The spring stays in the lower receiver even if you remove the stock.
Did you deill your own hole in the end plate, or did you buy it like that?
The threads are put into the lower, not the endplate.
The lower came that way, it is the spring hole,
I just had to tap it.
I believe I may have lost a spring or some sort, my spring doesn’t stay in place, once Fold the top receiver my spring comes flying out 😩😩
My back detent spring won't fit into the hole. The detent goes fine but the spring hangs up on the threads. Push as I may it will not enter and I don't want to buy another spring, it appears for the most part they just slide in. Any help?
Sounds like you have the wrong spring like the one from the safety or somewhere else
LOL yeah I forgot about this. I had the detent spring in my safety and I went back to my dealer to ask him, and he said that that's probably what I did, they appear similar but ones definitely larger. I was to eager to put it together I guess I didn't notice. But runs like a beauty. Topped it off with a psa upper, love it.
Question: if that spring is shortened & no screw is add , what kind of problems will you have......... cycling issues? ...... I'm guessing & I'm asking at the same time
You would just have a rear takedown pin that pulls out . No cycling issues because it has nothing to do with that unless the pin falls out
See above, Tim is right.
Couldn’t you just cut the length of the set screw off the spring? For example…If the screw is 1/4” then cut 1/4” off the spring?
Even easier might be if the manufactures used a ball detect set screw. See MCMaster-Carr # 3408A65 as an example.
There should be a kit for this. :(
Just go on McMaster-Carr, they stock everything you need. I bought a couple taps and a handle along with a bag of 50 cone point screws several years ago, I have done this modification to like a dozen ARs. I use a small chisel and hammer to shorten the springs, because spring steel will screw up many cutters.
There are sellers on eBay who do sell a kit marked up far more than you're gonna pay not buying as a kit.
Yep, Little Crow Gunworks, $13 for the kit and $8 for their "small tap wrench".
www.littlecrowgunworks.com/store1/DSM-Detent-Spring-Modification-Tool-p106089767
@@vbrtrmn Trying to price out what you can get on McM-C if you don't have a tap, holder or hex head driver.
Been on their site for the last half hour, (it's probably Tim the Toolman's heaven) and they have a TON of stuff; can't find the correct size tap (dozens of options) or a holder but did find a nice precision tool kit that'll put my Wheeler Engineering 'gunsmithing' kit to shame and a 50 count of the screws are $6.10.
For someone that only plans on doing a few of these, the Little Crow kit and a tap holder is $21. One and done.
Jo. Jo was a man, who thought he was a?
This vid is old AF but please take head that Dissimilar Metal Corrosion is an issue. Why would you use SS? Why not use a nylon setscrew?
You are right, SS and alu will corrode the alu, and a nylon screw would do the job,
if you can find a 4-40 nylon set screw.
If you put any anti-sieze or even grease on the threads, it will eliminate the galvanic corrosion, so getting stuck won't be a problem.
What is the purpose of this?
Every time you remove the buffer tube, the tiny dam spring shoots out, to never be seen again. This eliminates that, by trapping the spring.
I must be missing something here, what is the purpose or advantage?
Mainly it just makes stock installation and removal just a little easier.
It keeps the rear takedown detent and spring in place when you take your end plate off. One less thing to fly away...
I was going to ask the same thing but I got the answer here... none there's absolutely no benefit just another thing to potentially fail
@@brooksmaxey9745 no, it’s actually an excellent upgrade.
@@brooksmaxey9745 what would fail?
WTF? If your setscrew is 1/8" long then you cut 1/8" off the spring... It's not complicated unless you are a democrat!
could be worse and like the cheeto rapist
so could i do this and not install an endplate?
Yes. I have an "ultra lite" rifle that has this, no end plate and a rifle buffer tube with just a flat shoulder stock on the end (sorry, can't remember the name)
@@EhWassAmattaU I was actually asking for my lightweight build. What's your rifle weigh?
@@rshinn8776 4 Lbs 8oz w/green laser and micro red dot (it is a "close range gun")
YOU BETTER SECURE THAT LOWER A HELL OF A LOT BETTER while tapping that hole!
Someone may have already said this "lock tight" blue or red might be a good idea....
Weed eater nylon is much better and safer.
Never tried that. Do you just stuff it in the hole?
Get part's while you can, uncle joe wants them micro stamped. 🤪🤢🤮
This is 100% unnecessary and way more difficult/time consuming than just installing the detent and spring the way you should lol
Obviously, you have never had the spring fly into oblivion as you remove the end plate...
@@EhWassAmattaU This is absolutely horrendous when you buy a lower from someone who did this stupid unnecessary worthless process.
If you know anything about springs...gun springs in particular, after you cut coils off and shorten them you also weaken them at the same time. It may not hurt anything but be aware it doesn't have the tension it once did unmodified. I think I would classify this in the "over engineered" category IMO.
@@JohnDoeEagle1 Thanks professor.
This is a waste of time
Not if you're using a full-length rifle tube with no plate / castle nut to hold the spring in place
@@targetrein never have done this to my rifles either
@@targetrein winner winner
Unless you ever take your rear plate off, then your spring flys away.