AR-15 - Staking Your Castle Nut Properly
Вставка
- Опубліковано 24 лип 2024
- Everyone asks where I find AR-15 stuff in stock or where I order from, so here you are: bit.ly/2trc7Kg
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------
In this quick video, I show you exactly how to properly stake your castle nut on your AR-15/M16 style of rifle. Staking your castle nut is not required, but it is proper to do so.
For 20% off of your order at www.tekmat.com use promo code: nsz85
Thank you for watching and please subscribe for future videos! - Навчання та стиль
Good vid, but you don't use a hammer on an automatic center punch. You hold the handle and push the point exactly where you want it until it "snaps down". This is your starter hole. Then you finish it as you describe with a standard center punch.
Charlie L That is correct.
Clearly you hit the ACP with a hammer....
ACP doesn't have enough force to deform or bend my steel end plate. You'd need to hammer for additional force - however, you may ruin your ACP at the same time.
yeah, thats why actual center punches made of carbon steel are sold
hold the handle of what?
To be honest, I guess I just didn't understand how the spring worked in the thing, so, I smacked the crap out of it with a hammer! Haha, thank you for the kind words. I appreciate it!
Dam ACP Nazis
By the way that "spring loaded" punch is not made to strike with a hammer it is an Automatic Center Punch. It is made to push down with your hand only to make a small dimple.
If you see my previous responses to those that have the same concern, you will understand why I demonstrated it this way.
@@scaryeyeball lmfaoooooooo love this
Or quicky take out a side car window.
@@monzudihungadowski2161 alright, hopefully retired auto thief here! 🤣
Very helpful, watched your video TWICE, staked my castle nut ONCE. Thanks again.
I work for a military aircraft manufacturing company and I can tell you from experience that military TM’s can contain errors. A common error is getting in-lb. and ft-lb. mixed up. At my company, the engineering drawings are always in in-lb.. The Tech writers will sometimes convert in-lb. to ft-lb. based on the type of torque wrench that is available to the user. In doing this, mistakes are made. Another common mistake is omitting a decimal point or putting it in the wrong place.
Anyway, the point of my little rant is just because you see something in a UA-cam vid or a military TM doesn’t make it correct. If it doesn’t look right, you should question it. Hope this helps.
Thank you for making a video where I can actually see what you're doing.
Glenn Howerton You are welcome :)
I love your videos. I used your lower assembly video to build my lower last night and stayed up until dawn watching your videos.
short and to the point showing the process and how to for the DIY community! thanks so much
Hey man, just want to thank you for all of your build videos. I'm trying to reconnect with my dad and my idea was to get into shooting together. I'm hoping we can start a build in the spring and be shooting by next winter. At any rate, all of your stuff is nicely clear and concise and I'm confident that we can do the build pretty easily with you as our video tutor. All that said, quick question - I've watched your videos regarding headspace as well as a few others. Would you recommend having a smith do the barrel install right from the get-go?
Those Magpul ASAP plates allow you to put a small block in the castle nut notch and the notch in the ASAP plate that will act the same as staking the CN.
Quick question: What keeps those blocks from falling out of the notch once they're placed? I've always seen those little blocks but never bothered using them, but have since decided to either stake, loctite, or now use one of the retaining blocks.
10yrs on, your video is still being used. Thanks!
I recently bought an AR15 and have found a bunch of videos on staking and un-staking the castle nut. On the other hand you do have a nice video on the subject.
Thank you.
You do a very good job of describing for understanding.
I have saved several videos of yours and have shared the advice.
Thank you again.
Ur audio quality is freakin amazing! I was watching this with headphones and it sounded like some guy was standing behind me lol. Great video!
Thanks for the video. Just built my lower and was looking for a good video on staking my buffer tube. Thanks!
Nice. No nonsense. Straight to the point. Very good 👍🏻
Thanks for the tip! I ended up using the birchwood casey flat black marker.
True, and I have not had to use the hammer on my other builds. I wanted to show how to do it with a hammer and punch since most people would not have a spring loaded one. I will probably end up making another video showing how to do it specifically with a spring loaded punch.
Good video, as usual.
(I said i would never change out my Magpul ASAP too, but I got so tired of the "jingle" it made I just switched it out on Friday. Time to stake the castle nut!)
I did the same
You are welcome, Sherm! Thank you for watching
I used to do this all the time, but with frequent changes i just use loctite 222, good stuff but keep it away from plastics such as Ruger mark iii grip panels, total breakdown of plastic.
If you ever go to a carbine class they have punches and blue locktite on because the rifles people bring may function well at the range while seated only running 50 rounds through, but when your in a run and gun diving to the ground going through 1000 rounds anything not staked or have locktite usually falls off.
Thank you, Jim! Much appreciated!
Excellent description of the process. Thank you
That's kinda why you had a little difficulty staking. The spring absorbed the impact from the hammer. But sometimes, ya gotta do with what ya got. Just got my first stripped lower for my first ever build and am always on the look out for tidbits of info when it comes to building one. Thanks for this video as well as the removal one.
Nice clear photography.
I'm new to all of this and close to getting the magpul asap. I don't think at first I'd stake the nut personally until I know it's the mounting method I prefer but wouldn't a small tack-weld that can be ground off completely be better than damaging the material of the asap? Just my initial thoughts. Thanks for the video.
Great video, I'm glad I got to see it before UA-cam bans it
With an automatic center punch you don't need the hammer, just push it down until it clicks at the edge and keep doing it until you made a decent size dimple with some metal in the notch.
Great video! Do you have any tips on a slight rattling butt stock on the buffer tube? I'm sort of OCD too. Got a factory Blackhawk stock that seems to rattle when shooting, tried shims inside the stock which seems to fix the problem but can't adjust the stock up and down the tube now!
I will take that as a request for a longer version!
Very informative and straight forward ... thanks bro !
Thanks for the video. As an alternative, can a certain color of locktite be used? Are there certain color locktites that shed grip if one heats up the locktite for removal?
One would be fine, mil-spec is two. It depends on what end plate you use. An ASAP like I have can only be done once.
Can you re-stake a castle nut that was previously staked say if you wanted to change out the buffer tube? Without replacing the locking plate.
Great video. Thanks for sharing! To anyone out there who says there is no need to stake your castle nut ... well you must not use your rifle that much. I am 100% confident that if you do not properly stake your castle nut then it will work itself loose if you shoot a few hundred rounds (maybe less). Take the extra 30 seconds and do it right. Don't worry about marring / marking up your rifle - it is a tool and you should treat it as such.
Sorry to burst your bubble. I've got a 1989 Eagle Arms Rifle. Father and I replaced two barrels. Called him and we figured + 9000 rds. The nut was never staked. No issues. The more you know.
I’ve never staked a castle nut , switched buffer tubes many times installing folding adapters or different end plates with sling mounts and never had one come loose 🥴🤔…
Thank you Charlie L , Jim Kelley you are 100 % right
In CA everyone had to do this for retrofitting compliance requirements!!!
This is the reason why the spanner is impossible to find now!!!
Sweet deal. Thanks for the view!
So I have the magpul ASAP but the divot in the castle nut doesn’t line up with the top flat part of the plate to stake it. Is there some trick to get them to line up?
Good video never considered this. Video was helpful thanks again.
Thanks for the vid, haven't found one on how to stake it either.
I always wondered what that little notch on the nut was for
I stand corrected, I researched further and found that there has been some typos ' misprints' it is 40' lbs
I want to thank you for this video. I'm definitely a subscriber for good now!
You are very welcome! I hope it helps some people :)
nsz85, great vid as usual. Know handgun work inside out, but have almost finished my first AR build after having bought a Colt LE6920 some months ago. Yes, the addiction is in full gear! Have learned so much from your videos, it's not funny. Went for an SPR build and up to last night was perfect. Vltor A5 stock. Found out last night that I had a lousy AR armorer's wrench with one 'tooth' to tighten the castle nut. Ruined it and the plate. The good folks at Bravo-Tac were nice enough send me replacements. Better tool on order. Learn by doing! Am a subscriber. Keep up the good work.
1 castle nut wrench, and one armorer's tool that didn't fit in my castle nut before buying a 2nd AR armorer's tool that did work/fit.
For some reason I didn't look at the reviews when I bought the first one off amazon(which had countless comments saying they had the same problem as I did), but the second one I bought did have good rating(though when I went back and looked I saw some reviews saying their tools/wrenches didn't align properly with the gaps in the castle nut.)
I don't know if that castle nut was just a bit out of spec or what(it was my first AR build, and it was a BCM castle nut(or wait, it might have been a Anderson CN, as that's the buffer assembly I bought for that gun now that I think about it)), but after buying that third wrench I haven't had that problem again.
I don't know what it is about castle nut wrenches/armorers tools(or its the nuts themselves), but I see a lot of complaints from people who's wrenches either don't index properly with the cutouts on the castle nut, or that have teeth that are too big to fit into the cutouts(which was the problem I had with the first two tools I got.)
Thanks for showing this, good knowledge to share. I wish you would have just used a regular punch though, not that weak auto punch and a hammer....your stake would have been much deeper and defined, nut muddy and shallow
+Dan Bortaff It sounds like you learned from the video and have already concluded how you would like to do yours.
I'm what you'd call a learning gunsmith...lol. Basically because I'm always learning something about this wonderful hobby of mine everyday. I enjoy being able to work on my firearms and trust in the fact it's done correctly. However I'm not one of those guys that thinks he knows everything and won't ask questions. I would rather ask than ruin my firearm or have it self destruct. Well so far your video's have answered a few questions of mine or rather showed me how to do what I wanted in an easier different way. I just found your site today and subed after the first video. Thanks and great job! Very helpful video's much appreciated!
thank you for doing this video!!! only one I could find still:)
Thank you for sharing this video. I’ve been really depressed lately because work has been slow, and then last week my girlfriend got an abortion even though she was 8 months pregnant and she didn’t even tell me she was pregnant until after she killed our child, so I’ve been trying to get into a hobby and I think I might try staking castle nuts to pass the time
Can you link to the headspace tool/gauge you used?
was wondering how to do that, didnt go the loctite route do to budget(im cheap and love to speed money on better parts)
Using a hammer with an automatic center punch? What's up with that?
I've answered this same question multiple times within the comments. Please feel free to browse through them.
you could also add a little 242 around the dimple after steaking for extra strength..
nice video....very good description and instruction. not sure i'll ever do this, but could if I needed to, just based on your video. (want to change out my end plate for a qd one and the gunsmith at my range said like a 4 minute job.....so was curious....already watched your other video on removing a staked castle nut....and ditto comments for that vid as well). nice job!
Thanks for the info vid. How do I go about unstaking the end plate?
SOme of the receiver plates are aluminum instead of steel. May tend to chip instead of dimple when striking it.
Very good info to know! Thanks for sharing!
Interesting video. I have used that type of punch for many years. As you said it is spring loaded and I have never needed a hammer. Just press by hand and it punches. Curious to know if you tried this way or not.
The tail of the unit will unscrew, you can inspect it to see if it is broken. The deal is you just press towards the material to be punched and you are loading the spring, at a certain point "you usually have to press hard" it will release "pop". I use one in many of my videos although I cannot think of an example to save my life right now. haha
Thanks for tutorial!
My Factory DD lower has the castle nut notch staked more towards the right and not directly in the center like your.
Any reason why they did this?
You are welcome! Thank you for watching!
Sweet appreciated awsome videos man keep it up
Great info,and great video.
Very clear. Well done.
spraynpray Thanks!
I never heard of this till a Brownells video I recently watched. We are all sorely running out of things to do to our AR’s gents
Correct. However, I showed it this way as most may not have a spring loaded punch. Thank you for watching.
Nice video! You do know that those automatic spring loaded center punches are not supposed to be hammered on, right? You just push down on the body of the auto punch until the internal trigger trips and it "hammers" itself via the internal spring. A one handed operation.
Otherwise a great tutorial on staking the nut!
Stake: to lock into place by mechanical means.Steak: a cut of meat, often beef.
That sounds delicious lol
Thx for the informational vid sir!
you DA man i built my aero precision with your vids thx
Is there a way to do this without a vise? Or am I SOL if I can't find one?
Great video, I appreciate your effort that you put into making your videos.
+Leonard Paluzzi You are welcome. Thank you for watching!
+Leonard Paluzzi sometimes when i see vids he makes a 2nd or 3rd time i realize why i have stuff. one vid he had a red battle arms mag release button n a geissele sde. i had swapped my red one for the black one the other day n i wondered why i even bought it... nsz85 subconsciously made me do it lol.
+Zex Nynex Yes, watching his videos really makes me take my guns apart and learn the inner most mechanisms of action. I try to learn something new everyday in the gun and knife world. lol
That works too!
what kind of punch did you use?
Good video man, thanks
Do you think it's necessary to steak it more than one once like on a standard mill spec will have three of them or do you think once will do the trick
The technical manual states to stake it twice. I say just do what you're comfortable with :)
Thanks for the video!
The magpul asap qd endplate i have sticks up a little more than the castle nut. I had to wack it more to get the metal in there. Anyone else use one of those?
I'm just curious why did you hit an automatic center punch with a hammer and does the punch still work.
Other than that good tutorial.
Yes, it was helpful, thank you.
I would give you the page in the manual where it talks about it, but I am too lazy. LOL! But yes, a staked castle nut is "mil-spec".
thanks much for this one
Yes finally someone showing the real way to put on a castle nut
Good info, bro. Thanks.
Hey I love your videos good info
You are welcome!
You do a great job on these videos. Thanks!
You're welcome :)
I agree, helped me with my first lower build.
I just used blue loctite and wrenched it down really hard on all mine, in case I ever needed to remove them. Hasn’t come lose yet.... 😎
I did it the same way except no hammer. Using the same type spring loaded I pressed the punch repeatedly letting the spring snap make the dimple.
I used black fingernail polish.. a buddy inSF told me about that. It works great
Will blue loc tite work instead ?
Any benefit using a spring loaded punch?
why did you you use a spring loaded center punch instead of a solid punch? just curious.
Great Video, Thanks
I know it been a while but just in case, is unsteaking basic like steaking just in reverse. I need to unsteake to get my asap on my bcm. Thanks
This is for nsz85 by the way.
i think theyre needs to be more comments about the center push not sure if he got it or not
Thank you!