Only 2 mins in and thankyou for acknowledging and advising on the vehicle texture issue. I painted up 3 Heresy rhinos recently and had to hit them with a 2nd or 3rd primer layer to reduce the effect. Will bite the bullet and sand the surfaces next time.
As always, you've shown a great eye for colour and lighting, great job dude. And to add to the (many) voices, a character paintjob would be a great video.
Would definitely enjoy seeing a character! Lovely paintjob really bad and sad about the orange peel bits but the end result masks it pretty well IMHO. But annoying nonetheless. I personally like having the videos in a row without a break. Thanks ❤
I would absolutely love to see a series where it would he 1 infantry, 1 vehicle, 1 character. Whatever the timeframe that would be, I'd leave up to you, but i would love to see such a thing for Dark Angels or Ultramarines, chapters which have had their primarchs return, Lion and Guilliman being two characters Id really like to see your take on.
I can't say for certain that it is the case, but i think the peel effect your seeing on the plastic is a case of that particular mould the plastic is either old and/or heavily used. Its quite a common thing ive noticed on older Gunpla kits.
I've had several model kits with that weird orange peel finish. It's so strange because it just stops at a hard line. It is disappointing. Job well done, my friend! I love the finished product!
I found the repulsor I have had really bad orange peel. Not sure if it was due to it being an imperium magazine casting in blue plastic made the difference, but it went straight back into the pile of shame. I think a fix could be to use the plastic cement stippling effect to roughen up the surface that scale modellers do. Expensive kits like this shouldn't have bad castings. Gorgeous work all the same though!
Its scandalous that this is allowed to happen to kits this expensive. You should refund it, same for you Henry @cultofpaint, if it was a personal kit. Instead of binnig it you might get a good mold.
Character - yes. Three week continuation- also yes. Only because that way when you look at Videos, they’d all be grouped together. This is giving me strange 2nd edition 40K but also mashed into 3rd edition vibes and I love it.
Would absolutely love it if you did find a solution to the "orange peel" issue. Been collecting since '98 and this is way more frequent now that in the past and really frustrating considering the prices.
Awesome work! Quick question - given you enjoy bringing in the military modelling techniques, have you played around with chipping fluid yet? If not, I highly recommend giving it a shot. You get a surprising amount of control and the results are so good!
You could try priming, sanding, priming to deal with the molding artifact like gundam modelers do. From experience the tamiya fine surface primer rattle cans are a nice choice but I’d imagine Vallejo or others would work the same
I've noticed something similar to the plastic discolouration/banding with larger resin 3D prints of vehicles where there may have been some pigment settling in the resin vat when there was a long time between prints. It had the same issue where it showed through the primer, but I did find after the base coat and highlight it wasn't noticeable.
I haven't dealt with that Orange peel before but it wonder if painting the areas with a thin amount of Tamiya extra thin could smooth out that inconsistency.
A character would be awesome to see, especially as a representation of the pinnacle of what this scheme can achieve while staying consistent with an army painting mentality. Could be fun to see the blood angels infantry upgrade sprue utilized too on a praetor or champion etc.
Mechanical Engineer here, I design plastic parts for a living. At 1:03 your brush is pointing at something called a "knit line" or "bond line." This defect is caused when two leading edges of molten plastic meet inside a mold. The knit line is often an are of high stress concentration and weak mechanical properties. Knit lines are located between two gate locations because that's where the plastic is injected into the mold . My favorite example is the Veteran Guardsman Leader's power weapon. If you look up "broken power sword" you'll find a number of photo's of people with his sword broken in half. Why? Because it broke at the knit line in between the two gates. The solution for knit lines is evaluating gate locations during mold design and mold flow, hence why there are so many gates to clip when you're remove your part from the runners (which people call the 'sprue' in our hobby). You have to keep in mind these parts that GW manufactures are relatively large and have extremely high detail with tiny features. This creates an incredibly difficult challenge for the processing engineer (the guy who establishes the settings on the molding machine). Basically, the engineer needs to ensure the plastic is hot enough to flow into every small cavity in the mold before it hardens, otherwise the feature won't fill and you end up with what's called a short shot. Thus, factors like injection speed, pack out pressure, temperature, time to fill, and your material all come into play. That's where jetting (like you said) can come into play, but those defects you are pointing are not jetting. Jetting is often located near the gate itself and looks like a "snake" originating from the gate. Now the particular surface finish change around the knit lines is an interesting issue. With knit lines, the leading edges of plastic that meet are cooler and don't form a homogenous bond in the plastic, which is why you can see where they meet. You also have to remember that temperature plays a huge factor in mechanical properties of resin, so that can have an effect on the surface finish you're seeing (increased gloss, blistering, etc). It also doesn't help that the plastic parts coming out of our hobby molds have a surface finish of around SPI B1, which is essentially just smooth, so they can be ejected from the molds easily. Without surface finish texture on the parts, it's very easy to see defects like you're seeing. That's why on almost any plastic part it has some form of texture. Take for example your keyboard, the keys have a very slight surface finish texture, which helps mask imperfections. Lastly, an important concept to understand is in high volume manufacturing environments, all parts have defects; however, the severity of the defect is what determines if it's good or not. While I know my response isn't a simple answer, there's a reason for that; injection molding and manufacturing just isn't simple. If you change A, it affects B, if it affects B, then it could open the door to C and D. Hope this helps :)
Stuff we see on social media can be so highly curated and edited, so It's refreshing to see that it's not effortless perfection for everyone but me. I'd love to see a character model, or maybe even something like a sanguinary guard scheme.
Coming from a moulding and tooling background, (not in plastic but resin) the marbling effect LOOKS to me like theres a temperature discrepancy, some plastic is hotter than the other when injected from different injection points. Either that or they are using different batches of plastic for different injection points which I can't see happening but im not working on the tools so can't say for sure!
I've had luck mitigating the swirl issue by putting avarnish layer over the primer then priming again. Kind of a pain and definitely a bit of a waste of paint but it seems to take care of the problem.
You should honestly treat yourself to a modern 1/48 tamiya tank kit. It might ruin gw tanks for you but the kits they've come out with in the past 5 years or so absolutely just fall together. Beautifully engineered to disguise joins
I have had casts like that pretty consistently throughout every era of my buying GW vehicles. It's not negativity to point out that premium priced models should be expected to be of premium quality in all aspects.
It's unacceptable. I opened the Legions Imperialis road tile set and it seems that it also has the "orange peel" effect. I really want to find out #1 What's causing this, cheaper plastics? #2 I'm sure you sanded the areas as well as one can and it didn't have an affect. Is there another trick to removing it? #3 Are GW aware and are they sorting it? Still, great video as usual.
Great video, thank you. Really enjoy you narrating your thoughts as you go along and your honesty when doing so. I think a character video would be a good addition for the army painting series and no need for a long break. I would like to see more of the mixing of the paint and you drawing it off the pad/adding to airbrush - I struggle with drying tips and consistency so a visual guide for that would be very useful. Thanks
prolly already mentioned, but just in case, re: orange peel - interesting I've noticed it as well but it hasn't to my knowledge affected my painting however I use a micro fill primer, which likely makes the difference
If I gave up on every GW model (that I paid a lot of money for lol) that had those little swirls in the plastic on the bigger flat pieces, i would have maybe one tank left. I just thought I was crazy for noticing them and complaining until now.
I’ve seen that plastic whirling stuff on infantry too, I’m building sternguard rn as I’m watching the video, and I’m using some Intercessors arms on them, the Intercessors are clean cold plastic but the sternguard are a lighter more matte grey with a tonne of whirling maybe they’ve changed the plastic they use recently.
9:03 with the 2.0 edition set later in the heresy and the refferences on the Cthonia books to the end of the Siege of Terra and setting the tone for the scouring, that mix of 30k-40k is a blurry line. You walk that like with grace and style with these blood angels.
Hi Henry, I know this is an older video but I think I came up with a pretty good solution for the 'orange peel'. I've had it a lot on tanks and vehicles in the past. The trick is to prime the model first, and then sand over the top of the primer where it's noticeable, I use DSPIAE sanding sponges. I start at 1000 and then work up to 2000. Then I hit the model with another coat of primer - it really does the job, or at least minimised to the point where you can barely notice. You can repeat the process if its still bad, just need plenty of drying time. A very matte primer like colour forge works the best
Hey Henry, first of all, I wanted to say thank you for these videos! They have been, and I am sure about that, will be a great source of inspiration and entertainment for me! Next up, I work for an company that produces injection molded parts ( mostly for medical, aerospace and cars). I am not an engineer in that topic, but working in the quality assurance, I can tell you this: The issue you are refering to is dependend on where the gates ( injection points) of the mold are, and how large the surface is, how much preasure for the injection is used. temperature of the mold and the injected plastic as well as what plastic is used. Depending on all these factors the liquid plastic will, at some point, cool down and become more viscous than the warmer plastic, forming these swirls. We occasionaly have those issues on larger areas of housings for medical equipment, and without changing the mold there isnt much that can be done realy. The issue with the surface is, that these swirls are basicaly iregularities on the microscopic scale. My best guess at how to solve that from being visible on the painted miniature would be: either try a filler/primer ( iirc Mr. Surfacer is one of the products used by more realistic orientated modelers) but I dont know how that dries in regards of texture, adding texture with for example Tamiya putty mixed with thinner and an old brush, or use something like tamiya glue( the one in the glass bottle that evaporates quite fast) and sanding after that. Hope that helps :)
What Primer are you using? Ive been using Hycote car body spray since I couldn't get GW stuff during lockdown, they do a beautiful Matt Black and Grey Primer, great coverage and you get loads in the can, and it goes over that swirly stuff and covers it completely as far as I can tell.
The Predator / RHino etc kit are.... well, the back door and bottom dont line up without some work and the exhaus pipes just have these gaps..... I have about 15 from the new line of rhino chassis and without fail, this has been an issue
I've had an idea of converting the Emperor's children lord commander eidolon character into a BA prator - the armour and Jump pack really suit BAs so there wouldn't be too much conversion - so if you fancy being my guinea pig for a character video I'd be very happy!
Such an effective scheme which translates really well from the infantry. Thanks for the video! I'd love to see a character in this series too. I'm interested to see you paint the tracks on sprue! Any tips for tidying up once you've clipped them off and used plastic glue on them?
Someone might have said this already but the wavy lines or contours on the parts are from the metal mold the plastic is injected into. The mold is manufactured by a milling process so those contours show the path of the cutting tool used to make the mold. Those marks *should* be thousandths of millimeters in depth, nothing a couple layers of paint shouldn't cover up so I'm surprised to see them causing you grief!
This couldn't have come at a better time - I'm currently working on a Spartan for my own Blood Angels! I would definitely love to see your take on an HQ for this series
Every time I watch one of your heresy videos I want to start doing that specific legion and sack off my current legion XD - I'm too fickle. Love the work you guys put out!
I'm thinking of giving a try preshade of maybe steel for my blueberry bois, tho I would have to give them a coat of black, since I was trigger happy and much gave all of them a zenithal of neutral grey over black 😅
Hey man, love the vid, I use mr hobby surfacer primer to deal with jetting and orange peel, its got filler/leveler stuff in it that evens out those issues
Definitely not just your kit that had issues going together without gaps. I got one of each on preorder when they came out, and they all had the same problems you're describing.
Thank you. I am one of the many that asked for this a while ago. I've had my HH death guard spartan that's sat unpainted for two years because I've been afraid of ruining it. This is the sort of outline I needed to pluck up the courage to get it done.
Would love to see a character - know you've done a few praetors on the channel so maybe a librarian or apothecary - i.e. how to make alterations to a scheme for specific characters
If i may make a request: we don't have much in the way of gold army painting projects on here. How would you accomplish a kinda grimdark weathered gold. Maybe an excuse to do celestial lions or stormcast when they drop.
Try a solvent based microfiller primer, like mig ammo A-stand or mr.surfacer 1000 or 1200. And ak interactiv also does a microfiller one. Should unify the surface as it fills in small irregularities
@@cultofpaint its the only primers i use, and they are great, goes on so super thin, the mr.surfacer stuff need the mr.hobby leveling thinner, both the a-stand and the ak are ready to use out of the bottles. I did coment almost the same thing as this on one of ninjons videos and he tried the mr.surfacer and he was so happy with it he had it in his next video that he was only using these from now on, as he had some issus with the acrylic primers
a character would be fantastic to see. Personally I like seeing these series in 3 week cycles it has a nice pace to them and it is nice to get a cluster of ideas all in a row to help with inspiration
Such an odd problem with the orange peel texture. Maybe a coat of tamiya extra thin over it to melt it down would work? Have been so spoiled for heresy videos lately! Would love to see the model displayed on a lighter backdrop towards the end!
@@cultofpaint can't wait sir. If you don't mind me asking: do you think the technique you used here for the panel modulation would translate well to a metallic scheme like Iron Warriors? I'm more or less following your scheme for the IVth for my infantry and am thinking to try the "centered" highlights used here for vehicles by going bright silver in the center and spraying the watered down brown contrast in the panel edges? Would love to hear your thoughts!
I don’t understand this trend of using oil paint. Whats the benefits? I’m genuinely curious. I get that this channel is dedicated to a more high ends type of painting, but for the average painter who’d like to follow along and has only GW paints and a few others, its a bit complicated. Is there any easily available alternative? I know it won’t give the same result, but I would really like to know 😅
It's not really a trend, oil paints been around forever and been used in the hobby forever. They also don't have to be only for higher end paintjobs, in the right application and situation they can also be used as speedpainting tool. Think of it more as a different tool in your toolbox that you can use in different ways once you get used to how they work. And no there isn't really an alternative for oil (or enamel) paints, they just work differently to acrylic paint, again different tool for the job. Honestly they aren't really that complicated, besides that you have to get a thinner for them. They can be messy though. But thankfully you can always clean them up with more thinner, thanks to that long working time.
@@DarkZergkill And do you need to use varnish before using oil? I think I’ve maybe seen Richard Gray or another painter of Cult using varnish on their minis before applying oil. If I remember correctly, it is supposed to help the oil to flow easily in the recess
@@antoinecalloud6547 Yup, the gloss varnish makes the oil flow super easily in all the recesses, super useful for minis with lots of panel lines like Space Marines, just like Henry does in this video here. But a gloss varnish is not necessary if you use it in some other way. Without a varnish it usually means the paint sticks around more on the surfaces, tinting them, even if you wipe a lot of them away. Another channel who is using oils quite a lot in difference ways is MarcoFrisoni and he is using them often on non-tank/armour models which can show different effects and techniques too. 🙂
In this video ua-cam.com/video/ySVHerhZtcc/v-deo.html i use only GW products to do all the things i normally use oils for. I just enjoy using oils more due to their versatility, longer work time and the finish when they dry.
@@cultofpaint Ill definitely be looking into your airbrush tutorials, I have apparently been not thinning my paint nearly enough and wondering why my nozzle dries up so quickly from all the air pressure and paint. About your graphite pen, does the hardness affect it? Im assuming a harder one rubs off more precisely and is easier to work with, something like H2 or maybe even just HB?
Amazing paint job, the mould swirls etc are a big thing on the current plastic tank kits, I've chosen to ignore them, if the next 5 preds I have, have them I think itll be something to bring up. Any how....I think you should do a world eaters tank and use a different blue 😏😉😏
For the life of me I cannot see the orange peel once paint was on it, not even a little bit - don’t sweat it, and I’m a paint the inside of the tracks man
Yes to a BA HQ but I am eagerly awaiting more of the Black Templars project.
Been dealing with depression for a bit, but I'll be honest, these vids are nothing short of great and a genuine serotonin boost.
Same dude. Same to both the blues and the awesome videos to watch
Stay storng guys. Been there for a bit now and it's getting better. Wish you both the best. Don't be afraid of takin care of yourselves
Keep going. It get's better.
@@cultofpaint always does with you guys
Chin up, lads! The world needs you.
Only 2 mins in and thankyou for acknowledging and advising on the vehicle texture issue. I painted up 3 Heresy rhinos recently and had to hit them with a 2nd or 3rd primer layer to reduce the effect. Will bite the bullet and sand the surfaces next time.
Brilliant. And yes, please do a character model next, and in my opinion, it would help keep the momentum going by making it your next video.
As always, you've shown a great eye for colour and lighting, great job dude.
And to add to the (many) voices, a character paintjob would be a great video.
Would definitely enjoy seeing a character! Lovely paintjob really bad and sad about the orange peel bits but the end result masks it pretty well IMHO. But annoying nonetheless. I personally like having the videos in a row without a break. Thanks ❤
Definitely consider doing a poll of characters you're thinking of painting up!
I would absolutely love to see a series where it would he 1 infantry, 1 vehicle, 1 character. Whatever the timeframe that would be, I'd leave up to you, but i would love to see such a thing for Dark Angels or Ultramarines, chapters which have had their primarchs return, Lion and Guilliman being two characters Id really like to see your take on.
Guess I've been lucky. Large number of vehicles, never had that. Great video as always in any event. You make me want to change armies AGAIN!
I can't say for certain that it is the case, but i think the peel effect your seeing on the plastic is a case of that particular mould the plastic is either old and/or heavily used. Its quite a common thing ive noticed on older Gunpla kits.
Happy birthday Cult of Paint. You're a great inspiration.
I've had several model kits with that weird orange peel finish. It's so strange because it just stops at a hard line. It is disappointing. Job well done, my friend! I love the finished product!
Thanks for the heads up in the orange peel effect. I will try to return the kit if I get that one that bad. And to send a message to GW.
I found the repulsor I have had really bad orange peel. Not sure if it was due to it being an imperium magazine casting in blue plastic made the difference, but it went straight back into the pile of shame. I think a fix could be to use the plastic cement stippling effect to roughen up the surface that scale modellers do. Expensive kits like this shouldn't have bad castings.
Gorgeous work all the same though!
Its scandalous that this is allowed to happen to kits this expensive. You should refund it, same for you Henry @cultofpaint, if it was a personal kit. Instead of binnig it you might get a good mold.
My repulsor was really bad as well. Prime first, then finely sand the culprit areas, then prime again, really works.
Character - yes. Three week continuation- also yes. Only because that way when you look at Videos, they’d all be grouped together.
This is giving me strange 2nd edition 40K but also mashed into 3rd edition vibes and I love it.
Would absolutely love it if you did find a solution to the "orange peel" issue. Been collecting since '98 and this is way more frequent now that in the past and really frustrating considering the prices.
Awesome work! Quick question - given you enjoy bringing in the military modelling techniques, have you played around with chipping fluid yet? If not, I highly recommend giving it a shot. You get a surprising amount of control and the results are so good!
I used to use it a lot. I do t mind it for nurgly type things, but prefer brush chipping in most.cases
Yes please, character next. 3 in a row is not too much, in my opinion 🤘🏼
Official word from GW: spray a coat of clear before spraying on the primer. Let us know if this works Henry.
You could try priming, sanding, priming to deal with the molding artifact like gundam modelers do. From experience the tamiya fine surface primer rattle cans are a nice choice but I’d imagine Vallejo or others would work the same
thanks i'll check the stuff out
I've noticed something similar to the plastic discolouration/banding with larger resin 3D prints of vehicles where there may have been some pigment settling in the resin vat when there was a long time between prints. It had the same issue where it showed through the primer, but I did find after the base coat and highlight it wasn't noticeable.
great stuff as always
Character would be fun. Splash in some gold to get the last blood angel big colour in there :)
Deffo would like to see a character model too
New Baal predator kit, cool 🎉
I haven't dealt with that Orange peel before but it wonder if painting the areas with a thin amount of Tamiya extra thin could smooth out that inconsistency.
Would definitely love to see a character
A character would be awesome to see, especially as a representation of the pinnacle of what this scheme can achieve while staying consistent with an army painting mentality. Could be fun to see the blood angels infantry upgrade sprue utilized too on a praetor or champion etc.
i tihnk something using that champ mini would be fun.
Ah yes, GW making the best Tabletop Miniatures
Man, with a voice like that you should be doing some voice overs on the side.
Mechanical Engineer here, I design plastic parts for a living. At 1:03 your brush is pointing at something called a "knit line" or "bond line." This defect is caused when two leading edges of molten plastic meet inside a mold. The knit line is often an are of high stress concentration and weak mechanical properties. Knit lines are located between two gate locations because that's where the plastic is injected into the mold . My favorite example is the Veteran Guardsman Leader's power weapon. If you look up "broken power sword" you'll find a number of photo's of people with his sword broken in half. Why? Because it broke at the knit line in between the two gates. The solution for knit lines is evaluating gate locations during mold design and mold flow, hence why there are so many gates to clip when you're remove your part from the runners (which people call the 'sprue' in our hobby). You have to keep in mind these parts that GW manufactures are relatively large and have extremely high detail with tiny features. This creates an incredibly difficult challenge for the processing engineer (the guy who establishes the settings on the molding machine). Basically, the engineer needs to ensure the plastic is hot enough to flow into every small cavity in the mold before it hardens, otherwise the feature won't fill and you end up with what's called a short shot. Thus, factors like injection speed, pack out pressure, temperature, time to fill, and your material all come into play. That's where jetting (like you said) can come into play, but those defects you are pointing are not jetting. Jetting is often located near the gate itself and looks like a "snake" originating from the gate. Now the particular surface finish change around the knit lines is an interesting issue. With knit lines, the leading edges of plastic that meet are cooler and don't form a homogenous bond in the plastic, which is why you can see where they meet. You also have to remember that temperature plays a huge factor in mechanical properties of resin, so that can have an effect on the surface finish you're seeing (increased gloss, blistering, etc). It also doesn't help that the plastic parts coming out of our hobby molds have a surface finish of around SPI B1, which is essentially just smooth, so they can be ejected from the molds easily. Without surface finish texture on the parts, it's very easy to see defects like you're seeing. That's why on almost any plastic part it has some form of texture. Take for example your keyboard, the keys have a very slight surface finish texture, which helps mask imperfections. Lastly, an important concept to understand is in high volume manufacturing environments, all parts have defects; however, the severity of the defect is what determines if it's good or not. While I know my response isn't a simple answer, there's a reason for that; injection molding and manufacturing just isn't simple. If you change A, it affects B, if it affects B, then it could open the door to C and D. Hope this helps :)
That helps tons, thankyou for taking the time to write all that out.
Stuff we see on social media can be so highly curated and edited, so It's refreshing to see that it's not effortless perfection for everyone but me.
I'd love to see a character model, or maybe even something like a sanguinary guard scheme.
Coming from a moulding and tooling background, (not in plastic but resin) the marbling effect LOOKS to me like theres a temperature discrepancy, some plastic is hotter than the other when injected from different injection points. Either that or they are using different batches of plastic for different injection points which I can't see happening but im not working on the tools so can't say for sure!
I've had luck mitigating the swirl issue by putting avarnish layer over the primer then priming again. Kind of a pain and definitely a bit of a waste of paint but it seems to take care of the problem.
thanks, i'll give that a try
You should honestly treat yourself to a modern 1/48 tamiya tank kit. It might ruin gw tanks for you but the kits they've come out with in the past 5 years or so absolutely just fall together. Beautifully engineered to disguise joins
Try Halford High build primer but sparingly
Disappointing to hear that the orange peel is still a problem, I've seen this on Rhino kits from circa 2005 too. Still, that paintjob is amazing.
I would love to see you paint a Tycho the Lost as he encapsulates the blood angels so well: a beautiful monster
I have had casts like that pretty consistently throughout every era of my buying GW vehicles. It's not negativity to point out that premium priced models should be expected to be of premium quality in all aspects.
It's unacceptable. I opened the Legions Imperialis road tile set and it seems that it also has the "orange peel" effect. I really want to find out #1 What's causing this, cheaper plastics? #2 I'm sure you sanded the areas as well as one can and it didn't have an affect. Is there another trick to removing it? #3 Are GW aware and are they sorting it?
Still, great video as usual.
Great video, thank you. Really enjoy you narrating your thoughts as you go along and your honesty when doing so. I think a character video would be a good addition for the army painting series and no need for a long break. I would like to see more of the mixing of the paint and you drawing it off the pad/adding to airbrush - I struggle with drying tips and consistency so a visual guide for that would be very useful. Thanks
prolly already mentioned, but just in case, re: orange peel - interesting I've noticed it as well but it hasn't to my knowledge affected my painting however I use a micro fill primer, which likely makes the difference
If I gave up on every GW model (that I paid a lot of money for lol) that had those little swirls in the plastic on the bigger flat pieces, i would have maybe one tank left. I just thought I was crazy for noticing them and complaining until now.
I’ve seen that plastic whirling stuff on infantry too, I’m building sternguard rn as I’m watching the video, and I’m using some Intercessors arms on them, the Intercessors are clean cold plastic but the sternguard are a lighter more matte grey with a tonne of whirling maybe they’ve changed the plastic they use recently.
Unfortunately it’s not a bad luck cast. Had same problems with gw HH tanks. They can be a pain. An exact same issues with the orange peel
Tamiya clear I've found is brilliant and simple for doing the burnt look on say flamethrower barrels.
9:03 with the 2.0 edition set later in the heresy and the refferences on the Cthonia books to the end of the Siege of Terra and setting the tone for the scouring, that mix of 30k-40k is a blurry line. You walk that like with grace and style with these blood angels.
Hello!
What’s your chipping pen (metallic) please?
he has a very minimal basic style, be nice to see him paint something a bit more vibrant. amazing of course but just feels a bit souless.
A lot of the HH plastic models are like this. It looks like that they mess up the temperature of the material that they use in the factory.
You could try to do rolled and cast textures on the surfaces with the jetting?
A character model sounds ideal. 3 weeks in a row is good too
Hi Henry, I know this is an older video but I think I came up with a pretty good solution for the 'orange peel'. I've had it a lot on tanks and vehicles in the past. The trick is to prime the model first, and then sand over the top of the primer where it's noticeable, I use DSPIAE sanding sponges. I start at 1000 and then work up to 2000. Then I hit the model with another coat of primer - it really does the job, or at least minimised to the point where you can barely notice.
You can repeat the process if its still bad, just need plenty of drying time. A very matte primer like colour forge works the best
@@ollieclark2808 thanks Ollie
Hey Henry, first of all, I wanted to say thank you for these videos! They have been, and I am sure about that, will be a great source of inspiration and entertainment for me!
Next up, I work for an company that produces injection molded parts ( mostly for medical, aerospace and cars). I am not an engineer in that topic, but working in the quality assurance, I can tell you this: The issue you are refering to is dependend on where the gates ( injection points) of the mold are, and how large the surface is, how much preasure for the injection is used. temperature of the mold and the injected plastic as well as what plastic is used. Depending on all these factors the liquid plastic will, at some point, cool down and become more viscous than the warmer plastic, forming these swirls. We occasionaly have those issues on larger areas of housings for medical equipment, and without changing the mold there isnt much that can be done realy. The issue with the surface is, that these swirls are basicaly iregularities on the microscopic scale. My best guess at how to solve that from being visible on the painted miniature would be: either try a filler/primer ( iirc Mr. Surfacer is one of the products used by more realistic orientated modelers) but I dont know how that dries in regards of texture, adding texture with for example Tamiya putty mixed with thinner and an old brush, or use something like tamiya glue( the one in the glass bottle that evaporates quite fast) and sanding after that.
Hope that helps :)
@@zahnfeeha255 thanks a lot. A couple of others have said/suggested the same!
What Primer are you using? Ive been using Hycote car body spray since I couldn't get GW stuff during lockdown, they do a beautiful Matt Black and Grey Primer, great coverage and you get loads in the can, and it goes over that swirly stuff and covers it completely as far as I can tell.
I will check that out thanks
The Predator / RHino etc kit are.... well, the back door and bottom dont line up without some work and the exhaus pipes just have these gaps..... I have about 15 from the new line of rhino chassis and without fail, this has been an issue
oh thats sucks! Yeah i had to do a lot of trimming to get mine to fit.
I've had an idea of converting the Emperor's children lord commander eidolon character into a BA prator - the armour and Jump pack really suit BAs so there wouldn't be too much conversion - so if you fancy being my guinea pig for a character video I'd be very happy!
haha nah you're alright, great idea though.
Henry, would you consider painting Dominion Zephon as your character model? I’m working on him right now. 🙏🏻
I've other plans for tht mini...
Such an effective scheme which translates really well from the infantry. Thanks for the video! I'd love to see a character in this series too.
I'm interested to see you paint the tracks on sprue! Any tips for tidying up once you've clipped them off and used plastic glue on them?
Thanks. I do a quick scrape and super glue.
Someone might have said this already but the wavy lines or contours on the parts are from the metal mold the plastic is injected into. The mold is manufactured by a milling process so those contours show the path of the cutting tool used to make the mold.
Those marks *should* be thousandths of millimeters in depth, nothing a couple layers of paint shouldn't cover up so I'm surprised to see them causing you grief!
Having said that, I don't work with an airbrush so your layers are probably much thinner than mine!
This couldn't have come at a better time - I'm currently working on a Spartan for my own Blood Angels! I would definitely love to see your take on an HQ for this series
Every time I watch one of your heresy videos I want to start doing that specific legion and sack off my current legion XD - I'm too fickle. Love the work you guys put out!
I'm thinking of giving a try preshade of maybe steel for my blueberry bois, tho I would have to give them a coat of black, since I was trigger happy and much gave all of them a zenithal of neutral grey over black 😅
the pencil trick is genius!
Hey man, love the vid, I use mr hobby surfacer primer to deal with jetting and orange peel, its got filler/leveler stuff in it that evens out those issues
@@direpants4667 thanks, ive picked some up
do you think a filler primer might solve this? Something like those Mr Hobby ones?
I hope so
Hi Henry, thank you very much for this inspiring and useful series, a character video would be really appreciate 😊
Definitely not just your kit that had issues going together without gaps. I got one of each on preorder when they came out, and they all had the same problems you're describing.
Thank you. I am one of the many that asked for this a while ago. I've had my HH death guard spartan that's sat unpainted for two years because I've been afraid of ruining it. This is the sort of outline I needed to pluck up the courage to get it done.
I would like to know more about the strange artifacts in the plastic. That would bum me out too!
I'll get to the bottom of it.
Thanks for the great video Henry! A character next would be perfect.
I've seen some people dab some "sprue goo" or some light bits of putty over those spots and sand the excess off to fill the tiny patterns.
Would love to see a character - know you've done a few praetors on the channel so maybe a librarian or apothecary - i.e. how to make alterations to a scheme for specific characters
Go for a HQ to round off the series mate, would love to see you some kind of kitbash/conversion on it!
I think it could be fun
DOMINION ZEPHON PLEASE
If i may make a request: we don't have much in the way of gold army painting projects on here. How would you accomplish a kinda grimdark weathered gold. Maybe an excuse to do celestial lions or stormcast when they drop.
Gold armour will be coming up soon.
@@cultofpaint love to hear it
its very worth doing a HQ choice. im thoroughly enjoying this series
Yaay, we like Henry 😊
Try a solvent based microfiller primer, like mig ammo A-stand or mr.surfacer 1000 or 1200. And ak interactiv also does a microfiller one. Should unify the surface as it fills in small irregularities
thnks, will order some in
@@cultofpaint its the only primers i use, and they are great, goes on so super thin, the mr.surfacer stuff need the mr.hobby leveling thinner, both the a-stand and the ak are ready to use out of the bottles. I did coment almost the same thing as this on one of ninjons videos and he tried the mr.surfacer and he was so happy with it he had it in his next video that he was only using these from now on, as he had some issus with the acrylic primers
a character would be fantastic to see. Personally I like seeing these series in 3 week cycles it has a nice pace to them and it is nice to get a cluster of ideas all in a row to help with inspiration
Do you add a varnish at the end to protect table top models?
I don't.
@@cultofpaint thanks!
Such an odd problem with the orange peel texture. Maybe a coat of tamiya extra thin over it to melt it down would work? Have been so spoiled for heresy videos lately! Would love to see the model displayed on a lighter backdrop towards the end!
I'll bear that in mind for the backdrop next time,
@@cultofpaint You’re awesome Henry! Loving all of the content!
Please do a character model. Would be lovely for next week.
The colour reminds of the predator that Mark Bedford did.
A Character would be grand! thanks mate
Would be super interested to see a character, complete the trio!
A suitable BA praetor/consul conversion would be awesome Henry. Warmonger has my vote!
I think a champ could look good, got a few ideas.
@@cultofpaint can't wait sir. If you don't mind me asking: do you think the technique you used here for the panel modulation would translate well to a metallic scheme like Iron Warriors? I'm more or less following your scheme for the IVth for my infantry and am thinking to try the "centered" highlights used here for vehicles by going bright silver in the center and spraying the watered down brown contrast in the panel edges? Would love to hear your thoughts!
@@pieter-janvangucht2152 yea, but I think you'd need to play around with paints/set up to get it smooth.
Yes! Do a character, please. Enjoyed
I don’t understand this trend of using oil paint. Whats the benefits? I’m genuinely curious. I get that this channel is dedicated to a more high ends type of painting, but for the average painter who’d like to follow along and has only GW paints and a few others, its a bit complicated. Is there any easily available alternative? I know it won’t give the same result, but I would really like to know 😅
It's not really a trend, oil paints been around forever and been used in the hobby forever. They also don't have to be only for higher end paintjobs, in the right application and situation they can also be used as speedpainting tool. Think of it more as a different tool in your toolbox that you can use in different ways once you get used to how they work.
And no there isn't really an alternative for oil (or enamel) paints, they just work differently to acrylic paint, again different tool for the job. Honestly they aren't really that complicated, besides that you have to get a thinner for them. They can be messy though. But thankfully you can always clean them up with more thinner, thanks to that long working time.
@@DarkZergkill And do you need to use varnish before using oil? I think I’ve maybe seen Richard Gray or another painter of Cult using varnish on their minis before applying oil. If I remember correctly, it is supposed to help the oil to flow easily in the recess
@@antoinecalloud6547 Yup, the gloss varnish makes the oil flow super easily in all the recesses, super useful for minis with lots of panel lines like Space Marines, just like Henry does in this video here. But a gloss varnish is not necessary if you use it in some other way. Without a varnish it usually means the paint sticks around more on the surfaces, tinting them, even if you wipe a lot of them away. Another channel who is using oils quite a lot in difference ways is MarcoFrisoni and he is using them often on non-tank/armour models which can show different effects and techniques too. 🙂
In this video ua-cam.com/video/ySVHerhZtcc/v-deo.html i use only GW products to do all the things i normally use oils for. I just enjoy using oils more due to their versatility, longer work time and the finish when they dry.
It doesn't get better than this. Superb
Hi henry, what graphite pencil do you use?
i'm sorry mate I dont know the brand. I bought it years ago at a show and there's no name or anything on the tube. I'd see if MiG do one
@@cultofpaint no worries at all! Appreciate the quick reply. Love the videos :)
Another amazing painting tutorial!!
A character to round out the series sounds like a fun idea
Are you saying youre mixing the paint "two to paint" (2:1) ?
Yes
@@cultofpaint Ill definitely be looking into your airbrush tutorials, I have apparently been not thinning my paint nearly enough and wondering why my nozzle dries up so quickly from all the air pressure and paint.
About your graphite pen, does the hardness affect it? Im assuming a harder one rubs off more precisely and is easier to work with, something like H2 or maybe even just HB?
@@kutkuknight notnl sure, but that sounds reasonable
Amazing paint job, the mould swirls etc are a big thing on the current plastic tank kits, I've chosen to ignore them, if the next 5 preds I have, have them I think itll be something to bring up.
Any how....I think you should do a world eaters tank and use a different blue 😏😉😏
Just the 5?
@@cultofpaint got 6 already painted and another on the way for my 12 pred list 😆
another great paint job!
For the life of me I cannot see the orange peel once paint was on it, not even a little bit - don’t sweat it, and I’m a paint the inside of the tracks man
Great looking tank
Such smooth red
Amazing as always Henry 👏
Thanks very much!