While I commend you on this video and idea there's a few things with this build I have to comment on. Let me point out that I’ve been a certified Chimneysweep for a very long time. This method of heating is not a new one and historically dates back a very long way. Styles change but the design is mostly the same. First you must space fireboard and concrete board 1” from the wall for safety reasons, this allows air to flow behind the board and prevent the board from retaining heat at the firebox mounting point and causing a smoldering fire behind it. This is caused by the concrete board coastally transferring the heat to the wood causing it to get hotter over time to the point of combustion. Next issue is that gutters are not made of steel and are aluminum. This means the melting point for the metals is around 1221 degrees F or 660 degrees C. while the output you showed is around 450 degrees F the spots directly over the flames will be much hotter near or at the melting point. You would be better off using copper gutter as copper’s melting point is 1984 degrees F or 1085 degrees C. Also, copper gutter comes in round segments meaning you will get a much better draft. It would be wiser to braze the copper to the steel with bronze rod. I’m unsure if copper gutter could be roll flanged and brazed like steam boilers but this would be a much better option to seal it than JB weld which will break down over time. Your other option would be to use a multitude of 1’pipe flanged into the box in an arrangement that would pick up much more heat. You can find this information by looking up how to make barrel stoves and stream boilers. Then braze the copper gutter around the outside of the box to allow attachment of the input and output piping. Lastly, I would recommend building a means to adjust the wick higher and lower to better control the heat. There are a number of easy ways to do this with some old small gears steel rod and flat wick. I would also as other sugested look into the chimney effect as well as this will cause better movement of air. All in all This is a great build with some minor tweeking you can make it even better.
If I'm not mistaken, most residential gutter drains are made out of aluminum. Not steel. So they can actually melt and burn if the temperature gets hot enough. Not as easy as an aluminum can placed in a fire but it can still oxidize, become brittle, and even melt if the temperature gets high enough where you have it sitting in the flame. Also, instead of an electric fan, a wood stove fan can be modified to move the air and it will not require electricity. Also, the thin sheetrock you painted black will heat up, because it is sheetrock, and because it is black. This heat can transfer through to the wood behind it and can actually cause smoldering and even spontaneous combustion. It should be a reflective surface like sheet metal so it reflects most of the radiant heat. And JB weld should only be used if it is the extreme heat variety but I still wouldn't recommend that. The normal JB weld is only good at 600 degree Farenheit max. But at lower heat such as 200 to 300, it will eventually weaken and crumble. The ultimate goal is having a safe heater that will not cause a fire. And since you are using a fuel source such as cooking oil, etc, that creates a bigger fire hazard without the proper precautions because oil itself burns at about 2700 to 2800 degrees Fahrenheit at the hottest point of the flame. And you have the gutter drain sitting right in the hottest part of the flame judging by what I see at the 15 second mark in the video.
@Cloud Newman still, this is obviously not ridiculously safe. It would be way safer, cheaper, and more efficient to just learn how to run some wire and put an outlet and a space heater there
You can buy steel downspouts still. They are galvanized though which is not good to run hot as they off gas. Putting spacers behind the cement board and covering front with aluminum foil would be cheap and better to reflect heat. High temp furnace cement would be better than JB Weld. and safer.
@@bmxscape actually he never said it was for off-grid. The main reason for the build was its low cost heating which he said was only $5 usd per week. None the less this would certainly be good for off grid as the fan uses very little power and could be supplied by a solar system or as he mentioned a single 12v battery or as others mentioned have the exit pipe rise upward so the heat rises out the top and no fan needed. I think a fan of some kind is still best though for moving more air and circulating it better in the room.
A few minor suggestions to further refine/improve this design: If you make the indoor pipe a bit longer and have it bend upwards as it leaves the can, similar to the exhaust pipes in the back, the rising hot air in the pipe will draw more air in from the bottom of the pipe, and the fan won't be necessary. Research something called the "Chimney Effect", it's how my blacksmith forge pulls smoke away from the coke so I don't smoke up the whole shop. No fans required. Also, rather than using aluminum gutters for the indoor pipe, try finding some old copper tubing. It'll handle the heat better long-term, and you can bend it into a spiral inside the can, to gather the heat from the flames more efficiently. And, actually you could install this whole rig outside the cabin, with just that copper tubing passing into the cabin to spew hot air. This would lose some heating from the can and rain gutters, but would largely eliminate the concerns over Carbon Monoxide leaking into the house and minimize the risk of a fire as well.
The fan is just for blowing warm air into the room through the pipe that goes into the burn chamber but is separated from the burning process. Carbon monoxide should all be vented out due to the chimney effect and all the burning process is vented straight outside. This will require some type of fan to get the most benefit , with very little risk u less it broke loose from the wall spilling the fuel oil in the wooden cabin … it would be of utmost importance to have this very securely mounted.
The computer fan will blow CO and other combustion gases straight into the room as it is blowing straight through the combustion chamber. It doesn’t take much to overcome natural draft venting. The combustion chamber fresh air and flue need to be isolated from the air flowing into the room. Modern furnaces use a fan to push combustion gases out the flue because it doesn’t take much to overcome the natural draft. Something as simple as opening the door or cracking a window can do it. Even a less than optimally sealed building can do it through infiltration.
@@MrSadisticMedic the fan and the air it pushed are separated from the burning chamber unless there is a hole In the pipe the fan blows through inside the burn chamber it is no different than the the air in the entire room … the chances of this thing back drafting through the intake hole is almost impossible hot air rises it would take a fan or sustained air pressure on the exhaust side to push the carbon monoxide and smoke back through the air intake side. And anyone who has ever used a wood stove or even a fireplace knows it isn’t a issue .. the only thing I would of done differently is I would of used a lot heavier gauge metal for the hot air line inside the burn chamber that gutter material is very thin and after being heated up for a while could actually burn a hole in it and then you could get some carbon monoxide and smoke in the house .. I think you people aren’t noticing that it’s a seperate enclosed loop the hot air supply with the fan to the burn chamber and exhaust.
Lots of great comments and suggestions. Mine is to not cut rectangular holes and throw away all that useful metal, but cut Xs and bend the points out to make a solid flange with much more sealing surface area. There are wide/flat jawed pliers and vise grips for sheet metal work that would do a neat job of it. The ducts could also be screwed or riveted to these flanges for a mechanically solid assembly that doesn't rely on or stress the sealant. A solid mount on both sides of the heat exchanger will cause stress as it heats and expands at a different rate and extreme than the sides its attached to.
Great comment bro. It will make the construction closer to rock solid. And ofc better sealing surface. Going to do this in my cabin, and your advice will be followed. Thanks for input
One pointer : the concrete backer board needs to be mounted with a 1 1/2" to 2" space between it and the wall . Otherwise the backer board will heat soak and eventually conduct enough heat to damage the wall. I made the same mistake with a small wood stove many years ago. Great design and fabrication 👍👍👍👍😊
Whatd you use for spacers? I had used 3/3" cement board strips behind the cement board to protect the ceiling above the wood stove and the wall to the left of it. These were 2 to 4.5 ft from the stove and the boards still absorb nice amount of heat.
Not to mention it also makes it more efficient, thats an entire side of the heating unit that will not be radiating into your room but in an exterior wall!!
Daniel a most excellent proof of concept. I built mine out of steel box tubing, that's what I had on hand. We ran it in our icefishing shack and it did very well. I used 6 flat wicks and the gears like a lamp. I'm using used oil so it is free from the machines from our farm. My fan is 12v so a motor cycle battery and small solor panel was plenty this season but next winter I plan to scavenge DC curent from the heat of the burner so no panel on the roof. Thankyou bud.
Interesting. Both arguments. For the record most hardware stores carry a "adhesive caulk rated for super high Temps. Not sure how it would work on metals but i can at test it works on firebrick
I tend to agree with polok890. I've had very mixed results with JB Weld on different projects. May I suggest using a high-temperature caulking compound or resin for exhausts. Perhaps better, I'd probably go with brazing the joints. There are also various low melt aluminum rods that can be used as well. Alternatively, simply using a cheap high-temperature automotive gasket and the self-tapping sheet metal screws would have worked well. They even have copper-infused gasket maker RTV silicone, which I believe would help with keeping the thermal conductivity throughout the joints. Overall, if this works as well as suggested, I think this is a brilliant idea. I may give it a try and post my results.
@@TheWingnut58 try it on a car exhaust and see what happens. The rc car engine doesn't get as hot because it's cooled by the fuel and if it's an aircraft like you said... air cooled as well. Sure it's hot I've got an rc airplane too. JB weld fails at "high heat" above what our little airplane engines get. 😉
Not trying to denigrate what you did here. I always admire people for being innovative and putting effort into deriving solutions. It’s a very interesting idea that I haven’t seen before and apparently you’ve been able to make it work. Thanks for uploading
This looks pretty nice for a first version! I would make one modification. Add a sterling engine fan. You see them on stop of stoves for off-grid cabins, they run completely off of heat and require no electricity. So you just need to add one to the inside vent and it will start working as soon as your furnace starts. A way to refuel it, and start it without taking it apart would be a goal for the next version.
Not really a first version it's a modified (downgraded) version of what someone made for their snowmobile camper. All power to him for tinkering around with it trying to making it heat a space it wasn't made to heat but it will most likely cause a fire without warning.
@@OverlordDenooh The snowmobile guy used candles in his. The candles didn't work so Good. The candles were too far away from the through heat vents to begin with and they melted down even further throughout the night, ending up with a temperature of 50 deg Fahrenheit = 10 deg celcius, and that's in something not much bigger than a dog house; he was in a colder climate though. Although his heater was built First and the idea probably borrowed by these guys, I'd say this heater performs better, BUT! if he borrowed their idea and made a wicked oil system to fit inside his ( a doubled row of wicks as he has two through heat vents ) His could probably out perform this heater/stove. I don't think this one is a downgrade at all and in some ways an improvement.
If you add a rise to the pipe that lets the hot air into the room, the chimney effect on that pipe would let you run it without the fan. If you attach a flat plate to the top of the box, you can have a surface that can hold a small kettle to let you make some tea etc. I would want to be very careful about how the exhaust pipe goes out through the wall. It would be making that bit of wall fairly hot. A shiny metal surface behind the heater would reflect more heat as infrared into the room.
@@thee_number_six6227 BTW: It is also an argument for mounting the heater low on the wall. Cooler air is near the bottom of the room. It gives more height for the rising outlet to make a draw like a chimney.
@@kensmith5694 Definitely mate, one thing I have learned using these types of heaters is the placement makes a big difference, fans can be used but at lower rate of speed that pushes warm air out further along the ground and then that rises up and a regular temperature is maintained. I have used this type of heater with and without fans and the convention and air is much hotter without the fan, although the fan option circulates the air more quicker, it is better to control the speed output of the fan. Too fast and it cools the warm air before it's been circulated properly, again the room size makes a big difference. Overall though they work well with and without and smaller rooms do not really need the fan option, in my opinion. But always best to test what works best for your setup!
@@hafsalinda What does that have to do with my comment? He only measured the part of the pipe that is exposed to air. He didn't measure what the temperature inside the wall is. Out in the air, the air flowing past the pipe keeps it cooler than the gasses passing through it.
Great build..... yes these type heaters have been around a long time..... You need to not use drain pipe....use steel. Also put another barrier between the back of the heater and the wall. Your exhaust pipe should be setup like a propane hot water tank exhaust or even a wood stove exhaust. The small fan pushing the heat through is a very efficient add on to this system. Very good project!! 👍
Not bad...I'm building something similar, but it's based-upon the old kerosene catalytic burners. The wicks are round, and use fiberglass ( original stoves from the 1920s - 1950s used asbestos ). A Stirling-engine fan should be able to pull the indoor air through nicely. Oil has the highest BTU potential of any fuel today, and works fine. Keeping the smoke down and the exhaust outside is the real key to their effectiveness.
I like the Stirling fan idea, The nice thing about it is it makes the heater's total efficiency higher. It could be extra nifty if it could run a Stirling heat pump too. I don't think the idea is practical but the idea is that you get some additional heat from a heat pump.
Carbon wicks are better than fiberglass and can be made on modified easily. Optimizing for convection circulation you can cut out the need for a fan all together. But the Stirling engine uses what the heater is already making. I plan for K.I.S.S. though as more moving parts means more stuff to break.
@@thee_number_six6227 I'll try carbon for the wicks, but the nature of the type of heater I'm talking about is that the wick is only about 1 inch high, so there's not a lot of draw to worry about. It's more about giving a kerosene-air interface for combustion.
@Joshua Kiser AS wick and a flame do the job. With an active flame you have enough heat to provide the energy needed to start the combustion reaction of the next bit of fuel.
Assuming the kerosene heater is 100% effecient, you will need to source kerosene at 3.90 per gallon to to match the cost per btu of an electric space heater with an electricity rate of $.10 per kwh. If you have a small airport nearby they might sell you Jet'A fuel, (pure kerosene) it's currently around 3.90 a gallon. Pretty much the exact same cost per btu as electricity. An electric heat pump would be several times cheaper if they work in your climate.
To daniels dad: thank you for teaching your son, and hopefully all your children, to think for themselves and not to listen to naysayers. Naysayers only want you to give up or fail and true failure is quitting!! Any other failure usually means that you have not thought things through enough (Tesla) or tried enough options (edison). Thank you for teaching truths!! Both of you!!
@@tomstdenis If this were truly what happens, then humanity would not exist, because regulations have only been around for a minute while we have been working with flames and oil for millennia.
No bs (direct+informative) and just straight up ingenuity! Love it. First video I watched of you and that beats almost 95% of the other channels... and I do watch a lot of engineering, philosophy, epistemology, maths and whatnot...
Holy Cow! That is a BRILLIANT bit of kit. So simple, and the temperature measurements show it's very efficient with the oil burn. As luck would have it, my shed needs exactly one of these so I'll make one. Wonderful to stumble across you chanel and I wish you all the best for future projects. Cheers Pete' New Zealand.
Pro-tip: JB Weld as a long-term solution, especially with high temps, flame and closed spaces is *not* recommended. If you're going to try this, ask your local store for high-heat sealant and for the love of God, find some heavier-duty stock than just standard storm drain pieces.
You could use a termoelectric generator to drive the fan, it will be driven by the heat = no battery needed. StoveSeal could be used instead of Jb Weld.
I have a question. Wouldn't you need heat resistant flue instead of rain gutters to keep the pipes from getting too hot? (since it is right next to wood?) Or is the gutter pipes only for air circulation? I watched twice to be sure I didn't miss anything. Thank you!
The concept is very good a bit stronger pipes maybe needed but a good idea..has good potential. On a larger scale it could be very economical for larger building but I understand your concept for its present use. Well done ! Young man.
Good point. Also CO1 is more deadly than CO2 and it is generally produced in heaters by incoplete combustion (no enough oxygen) so you not only should vent the heater but have adequate ventilation of the living space. A CO1 meter and an O2 meter would be nice but CO1 is much more important.
@@2Truth4Liberty CO2 Indoor Air Quality Meter are essential for most space heaters, this particular design does have a flue venting system that is separate from the combustion chamber, so unless a leak occurs they are much safe than a regular open and flueless gas/oil appliance space heater, however it is always advisable with any combustion chamber and device to have adequate ventilation and assisted/ monitored with a CO2 Indoor Air Quality Meter. Always best to be safe than sorry!
@@2Truth4Liberty Are you referring to Carbon Dioxide (CO)? As CO(2) is produced at dangerous levels by oxygen-starved combustion in improperly ventilated fuel-burning appliances such as generators, oil and gas furnaces, gas water heaters, gas ovens, gas or kerosene space heaters, fireplaces, and stoves. CO(2) is almost entirely a man-made gas that is not normally found in the earth's atmosphere. that is toxic. CO(2). Many refer to carbon monoxide as one of the most dangerous gases. We use CO and CO2 to identify the separate gases, so I assume you mean Carbon Dioxide and Carbon Monoxide. Both are made from carbon and oxygen molecules. Both are potentially deadly and can cause severe health problems. Both carbon dioxide and carbon monoxide are colorless, odorless and tasteless gases. The concentration levels are where the affects are life threatening, with lower levels of CO required to cause major life and health problems than Co2. CO and CO2 are potentially deadly, this happens at vastly different concentrations. While 35 ppm (0.4%) of CO is quickly life threatening, it takes more than 30,000 ppm (3%) of CO2 to reach the same risk level. I think that's what you are referencing, Co(1) and Co(2).The most important difference is that carbon dioxide is a common, naturally occurring gas required for plant and animal life. CO(2) is not common. It is a byproduct of the burning of fossil fuels such as oil, coal, and gas.
"CO(2) is produced at dangerous levels by oxygen-starved combustion in improperly ventilated fuel-burning appliances such as generators, oil and gas furnaces, gas water heaters, gas ovens, gas or kerosene space heaters, fireplaces, and stoves." --- Change CO(2) (dioxide) to CO(1) (monoxide) and I woud agree. Carbon Dioxide is natural - every human breaths it out, and combustion produces it too. Carbon Monoxide is natural too but is rarely produced in nature as it takes an oxygen starve combustion to make it. Whenever you see "soot" being formed by a flame - you can know it is creating CO(1) - carbon monoxide - which is very toxic - so a carbon MONOXIDE tester/alarm is HIGHLY advisable for non-vented combustion.
I love this idea! I have some comments and see they offer suggestions on how to better get efficiency. Your design is great, I like to think people can take this and run with it. Again great idea and thank you for sharing it.
Excellent project with fine details ❤. (1) Adding upward angle to the heat exchanger pipe inside the unit -[ ↗]- , will increase the efficiency to move the hot air on it's own without need for 12v fan. Oil Filled Radiator heaters works on same concept to move the hot air by use of hot fins without using any fan. Please check it out. (2) There is an opportunity to increase the efficiency by thin wrapping or insulating cold air intake pipe so it does not play any role to interfere with room air temperature. and same way adding some thorn spike to the exhaust pipe, to extract the out-going heat as it's showing 273F (134C). (3) In current design to refill the oil, it requires to open 8 screws and pull the assembly out, to make it very simple and easy, a small metal pipe can be added with air-tight cap (to avoid CO2 leak), so anyone can add the oil without going thru hassle of opening screws or take-out assembly. (4) To build an oil container, I see you have cut the metal tin and added small glass piece to check the oil level, I believe, this can be easily replaced with a candle jar (glass jar) as a container, it will save time and effort to cut metal tin and add glass window to it.. Thank You for keeping it simple. 👍 I encourage you and looking forward to see next version 2.
hello there... I am in the process of making one myself, not for fun but for real need (and I am late cause winter is knocking on my doors)... I found your comments really outstanding... would you help me on the sketching of it?
@@renator8540 if you must a 12v diesel parking heater work great. But I’m goi g to try this idea too. It seems cheaper as to where I use 4 gallon of diesel in 60hrs
NICE to see people enjoy being more efficient.. I have to say that I watched it twice and liked the idea of the oil canister being close to a heat source.. in extreme cold even kerosene becomes thicker ,less viscosity. And, the wicks burn down faster than the rate of oils being pulled up into the wicks to burn. if I hadn't choked on all the smoke I wouldn't be here to tell about it.. but it does/can happen. Will definitely build and get a monitor/alarm.. great reading all the pro tips and stuff. Kuddos to industrious a kiddos. Bravo!
Nice project Have the wicks short enough to eliminate as much orange flame as you can. The blue flame is what you want for efficiency and clean exhaust.
Exactly right. Yellow flame in the pipe covered with soot is a good indicator that a lot of that fuel is being wasted as being sent up the exhaust pipe and coating inside of the exhaust pipe with black spot that eventually could get thick and hot enough to ignite possibly?
@@howtogetoutofbabylon8978 I'm familiar with the sooty exhaust pipes on the older cars. I've never heard of exhaust pipe flaming in car exhausts, but it's a thought. I'm thinking the high flow rate would hinder any flame along with lack of oxygen.
You can solve the top being hot by moving the intake and outtake flush with the upper portion, or making both holes larger to the same effect. This increases movement of air over the surface area making the heater more efficient at keeping itself cool and the room warmer.
This is AWESOME...question....I see your using a 12volt power adapter to assist with circulating the heat from the unit around. In the event we don't have power...what is a good suggestion to assist with circulating heat from the unit?
That's a great idea! You have my imagination going. Filling my tank cost me over $1000. I think wick mechanisms are still available. Installing a damper on the air intake might offer throttle, and could make the fire box hotter. Using tape wick adjusters drilled through the cover would make the flames allot bigger and adjustable. Adding heat sinks fastened to the outside of the duct, adding area like baseboard heat fins, might add more temperature to the duct. Boilers are designed that the hot air flow slows down passing through upper manifold and heats the water more, before the heated air is wasted up the chimney. Sitting a line of rocks across the top of the duct might hold more heat in the box.
I would think a heavy steel pipe would be better horizontally. That would keep carbon dioxide outta cabin. Also a heat plate on the top so you could warm coffee ect
Did this on my old halve pot belly wood buring stove.. And got it so hot it was bright red at night and burned slow and steady for hours..used less wood too. I tell people about it with wood stoves and they look at me like I'm talking in toungs or something..they don't get it.. Reducing the air flow causes a hot fire and burning of the wood gas as well. They think the inlet air is doing that alone and they are wrong. Its far more efficient with a valve on the exhaust side. I could regulate both to get a perfect burn with no smoke at all out the exhaust chimney. And it would keep the place toasty all night long.
@@leadboots72 I was in the business. Dad ran a heating oil company. PETRO bought and dad dismantled the 20 million gallon oil terminal he managed. I installed the controllers on countless heating and hot water systems. I installed my oil boiler myself. I use under 600 gallons of oil to heat a 1500sqft NY home. My neighbors with similar size homes are burning 1000-1400 gallons annually. I told 2 neighbors, they need a baffling kit or it's cheaper to buy a new boiler. FACT oil companies install the biggest flow nozzle they can put in your boiler, to burn more oil is great for the oil business. I tune my boiler, that I installed, every year since I installed my work horse boiler in 1997. I wired heating and ac systems since 1985. Ask me anything, and I rarely don't have a solution.
Very well designed piece of equipment. They have built a heat-exchanger system with two separate air systems. An uplift intake, from outside, (to feed combustion), and a down-draft smoke"stack to remove the smoke and "ghost turds" caused from oil burning, vented outside, and an inside air intake, via a fan-forced up-lift system, where a continuous pipe allows the air to travel thru the pipe and back into the room, but passing thru a flame heated surface. There is a temperature exchange made inside the chamber but two separate airs can't mix. This is a simple, but very impressive heating system. Its inventor needs to be commended. You should patent this furnace and manufacture them. This is a very nice concept and has the chance to change the way we heat, especially in "Off the grid" areas, like "BOB-HOUSES," Where folks take a structure out on a frozen lake and bore a hole in the ice and fish. This would easily heat one of those huts. It would also be an excellent CAMP/TENT HEATER. The applications could be endless. GREAT DESIGN. (I would, however; TIG weld the joints together instead of JB Welding them. JB Weld is good for a lot of things but it is STILL glue. TIG Welding is permanent. (just saying). (another item is the direct area where the flames touch. Over time, this area will break-down. You should think, seriously, about using a piece of thicker steel there (1/8" thick hot-rolled steel), and then pass the solid tubing just touching it, thru, just above it. That way the thicker stuff would take the heat and transfer the pure heat to the thru-pipe duct. Bill, from Tn. 🇺🇸
unfortunately, you can not patent something that you have put on youtube To summarize so far, you should wait to file your first patent application as long as possible, but be sure to file before a first public disclosure, public use, or offer for sale. because at that point you CAN no longer get a patent!
If you want to improve the life, use some heavier gauge round duct and oval it. Round duct for exhaust is sold in two gauges. Go with the heavier. And it's already shaped for a computer fan at 4-6". Speaking of computer parts. Use a heatsink on a piece of plate steel to amp that efficiency up.
Great little project! My only suggestion is to have a CO detector in the room just in case a sealing point goes bad. You don't want to wake up dead from CO the silent killer
Hey Daniel can I order one of these already assembled? I live in a 22 ft 5 window short bus and this would be perfect for Heating it through the winter.
Nice build. I'll hold off on any criticism as it has been covered in previous comments. Stainless steel and GTAW/TIG construction would take this design to the next level.
Great concept. Besides the potential issue with JB weld, consider adding a sheet of metal to the surface of your heat resistant backing board to also help passively radiate the heat and keep the burner cooler if the fan dies. Some passive safety is worth the extra metal. The temperatures you showed look okay for the jb weld, maybe, but still I'd look at that as more a really great proof of concept. Great job!
Yeah and you have to watch endless ads, because youtube is paying for this BS. Yeah. adblocker yeah. But. Should be this way? (Like more BS on youtube than valuable content?)
Hey guys that is an awesome idea. As someone else mentioned the materials are a bit different then you thought and to make it safer you just have to take down the concrete board and put in some minimum 1" metal spacers that can also be used to hang back up the board ,once its installed to the wall. I would have to say i would have searched for a different box as i love my ammo boxes, well for ammo! lolBut in a SHTF or grid down situation i could build one of these with materials in my garage. As long as you dont let it get too hot ,its just fine! Although if you get the chance i would go with metal stove piping. It comes in all different sizes. That way if your sleeping it cant get too hot. Or someone should always be awake, to keep an eye on it. Safety 1st guys!?! But that is some Mcgyver stuff there! awesome video!!!
Really great job, I won't be sad and sorry and tell you what you could or could not do better. They are some bitter people around that pass their criticism as good advice. You have done a fantastic job. Keep up the good work you are very innovative.
I love the video. I'm also pleased to see all the positive feedback and suggestions. I haven't seen anyone in the comment section shitting all over the ideas and project this young man is involved in. Cudos all around.
Thank you Gentlemen!! I am soon to be 63. i envy you for doing something really good for the people at your young age. Keep doing this awesome invention.
Thank you for this project. It's been a while since someone's content got my wheels turning. Are you going to offer the build plans, or complete video for sale? A wick adjuster would be a cool mod. Well done. Good on you! 👍🏽
After reading through many of the comments (I'll be back) I must say the engagement with and participation from your audience is of great value. So many bright minds here. Again, well done!
I truly love this stove the way you made it and also the work you did on there and I would love to have seen that video longer and also updates of the stove and maybe more improvements of it also if there's any that you made I hope you do come up with more videos
I've got a recommendation about the computer fan being used for convection. I'd go slightly smaller on the fan, for a few theoretical reasons. You reduce power draw which opens up more options to run said fan off of smaller solar panel/power bank set ups for longer duration. Also, the air moves through and exits the stove more slowly thus giving the air inside the can/stove a chance to reach a slightly higher temp before exiting. This might even reduce the oil wicking strength a little and slow the burn time on the oil, meaning you might end up using less oil over a set amount of time because the slower airflow would pull less oil from the wick as it burned. I realize that these factor differences would be small and probably theoretical at best but looking at it from a fallout emergency or off-grid standpoint, it might be something to consider. Also, I agree with the worlds most scientific chimney sweep dude. Insulate the crap outta your mounting points for that stove because turning your entire cabin into the stove would be really bad. You'd be warm AF though... LoL
The heat coming out with his current setup reads above 400°, so not sure on slower airflow, it'd be a hotbox. lol. The reason I replied, was actually in reference to the air flow. How would the air traveling through the exchanger affect the amount of wicking? The only reason I ask is that the air travelling through that supply line should not affect the airflow or wicking through the combustion chamber; I would think as the air is from two separate sources. The chamber that supplies ari for the burner comes from outside and exhausts outside, while the air supplied to the room is recirculated via the fan. I'm sorry if this doesn't come out right, I am genuinely curious.
The smaller fan gives less cubic feet of airflow per powerdraw, I would suggest using a quality computerfan like noctua or corsair. They are usually very silent decpite having good airflow. They also last very long
How do you adjust the wicks? Do you have to shut down the heater and then restart it until you get to the correct settings? Maybe you could use some small watch gears on a shaft and aknob to adjust the wicks during the heat cycle. Like a oil lamp. Just a thought.
BRAVO on your Creativity & Safety! Consider thermally mounting inside your Heat-Exchanger , an additional copper or aluminum finned heat-exchanger (from an old computer) to create more surface area inside your heat-exchanger. You will get more heat out that way. You should also test "Activated Carbon Felt" as a wick-material. Pretty good capillary action for most liquids. You may need a few drops of Alcohol to get it started, depending on the oil used. And Activated Carbon Felt is heat resistant (very little smoke if any). Best of Luck - Regards.
Great job man. One idea I have is maybe a slider with a heat resistant handle off the side where you could cover the wicks to regulate the heat output.
Yes, and it should be made reflective so it reflects the IR. I think two plates is even better. Directly on the wall you have the cement board. A short distance out from it you have a sheet of metal Then there is a space before you get to the heater.
This is particularly interesting as the cost of domestic electricity and gas has become literally unaffordable for many in the UK, with people having to choose between heating or eating. Its specifically hard hitting elderly people and young children. Thank you for your excellent video tutorial, I would very much appreciate it if you could shed some light (pun intended!) on the brand and suppliers of the oil that you use. Your cabin is beautiful, the breadboard panels are gorgeous.
@@KastorFlux no it's not. Freezing is a tragedy. Living is a choice but cut short by greedy globalists that want to limit the lives of others.......... Just think about it. Old cooking oils, which can go bad in 1 year, that are not useful for taste can be recycled for heat. Same thing with biodiesel used for traveling down the road. This young man has found a useful solution while you hack away at his attempts to create useful solutions. You're right Matthew Kastor, he should just stay home and play endless xbox or porn forever, contribute nothing and wait on that ubi payment. Feel stupid yet, Matthew?
I am a little concerned about whether JB Weld is flammable or can give off toxic fumes. Also question painting the fire resistant concrete board, unless you are using fire retardant paint. Other than that, real smart idea, normal oil lamps will give off heat, but you usually have to put up with some kind of smell from it, this makes it to where you can use any kind of oil that burns, and is quite efficient... nice!
After reading the comment from tech people giving improvement advice which is invaluable. I want to compliment on all aspects of video making. I hope you continue to take on new things as you have a great voice for narrative work. Editing the video keeping it the steps short and to the point to keep folks interest. Being good at this is where you guys stong points. Take on more projects and you will have a awesome channel. Good luck
Awesome, I love the ingenuity and creativity in this project! That fan is critical however and perhaps a temperature monitor with an alert at the output would help a lot. Some type of oils have low combustion temperatures. Some day (maybe years from now) the fan will fail. When it does, and if during the night, the temperature inside the unit will increase rapidly (especially with 10 wicks). From there it's a matter of minutes (let's say less than 1 hour) before the small space inside that unit gets hot enough for the whole gallon of oil to spontaneously catch on fire (the increasing heat will pull air on it's own through the pipe). As said, this is awesome; I would just add a temperature monitor so an audible alarm goes off if it goes above a set threshold.
I was thinking the same thing. I would add heatsinks with peltiers around the oil container, it will create electricity, not much when its warm, but a lot when its hot, this electric could be used to power an emergency fan and an alarm.
I saw another heater similar to this on another channel. I like this better because it seems safer. The only thing that worries me about a homemade heater is the carbon monoxide risk. This setup seems much safer than some I've seen. I would still want a CO2 alarm, just in case.
@OpenYourMind you should have a carbon monoxide detector because the heating and cooling can cause these materials to crack and carbon monoxide is undetectable by your senses. You should have a carbon monoxide detector if you have a furnace fueled by natural gas for the same reason.
@@nealeburgess6756 You are right and wrong. BOTH CO and CO2 are problematic for your lungs. You need 02 to breath, either one of those with make you go to sleep and never wake up due to O2 depletion.
An alternate to the several wicks, might be getting several oil-lamp wick holders, that have the adjusters built-in. Those normally screw onto an oil lamp base, but could be mounted onto a similar metal plate as you did. That could both increase the light/heat, & ease wick adjusting. Or, instead of oil, one could make an alcohol burner to go into a container that has room-air recycle & fresh air + exhaust. One guy makes his using 2 recycled cans, a carbon fiber filter as a round wick, & stainless steel window screen as a vertical round mantle. He sets his burner between 2 cake pans, separated by a metal shield. But, it could as well be fitted inside a larger metal box w/glass door….that could increase safety & efficacy. Alcohol burners are very easy to make; they do a “batch-burn”, so, you make them to hold about as much alcohol as is needed for the period of time you want to use them. A couple dampers could be used at air intake & outlets, to shut it down mid-burn.
Alcohol isn't the cheapest of fuels and around 1/3 less heat per litre compared to most other liquid fuels. Just too expensive, I have tried it myself; Great though for camping stoves or emergencies.
@@pa_maj.MARTINI-van-MAN Correct. No one claimed that alcohol burned hotter. Oils like kerosene have more BTUs. Then comes gasses like LP & NG. Alcohol has lower BTUs in it. That said…consider supplies. If you cannot get supplies refilled, you won’t be burning oils. Not unless you can grow oil-producing plants & can process them. But, one can more easily (relatively) make alcohol from plant substrates. Or, might harvest methane from compost.
@@pa_maj.MARTINI-van-MAN One can get rubbing alcohol still fairly cheap. I like rocket stoves, which can burn pine ones, sticks, small branches cut up…forest floor debris that can be fairly easily gathered. Can make then from numerous recycled materials, or concrete or rocks & cement. Or buy ones ready made ( just be sure they really are rocket stoves, not fakes). Real ones burn hot & fast, so have very little effluent.
I've seen a lot of hokey home made inventions but this 1 actually impressed me! I truly see the value in it, especially as a potential small greenhouse heater. I also can imagine it being coupled with a thermal mass or heat sink fins to extract even more heat, therefore, reducing your oil consumption.😀
things like this legit make my brain explode with ideas. and the comments sections often have some great information as well, which is a great bonus. Even just keeping ideas like these tucked in my beard for a tougher time I hope may never come is so incredibly worthwhile, but I have a more direct and immediate use for such things.
We rely completely on space heaters during the winter, and they CONSTANTLY break due to overzealous safety features. This design is inspiring, and I'm going to look into building something based on it for our 340 sqft home. Thanks so much! If you see this comment, I'd love an update on how this setup weathered its first season, and anything new you've learned since posting this vid.
I'm sure I'm the only one that was following the steps and wondered how we went from just getting started to "We are using 10 braided oil lamp wicks, we're very impressed with the final outcome of the heater."
It's sad that even has to be said. You'd think people wouldn't either use or fall for the 'free energy' thing anymore. There are lots of ways to scavenge lost or wasted energy, but it never 'just appears for free', the energy has got to be there in the first place. They could take it a step further too, and might be able to power that fan with a Stirling Engine on the air pipes, and scavenge the energy needed for that from their heater too. Then they could say "Free Energy" *with every purchase of fuel ;)
@@kenhillicoss569 He showed the container when he put it in the stove, some kind of lamp oil, I think he said but I don't remember. Any kind would do, kerosene being the most common and probably cheapest.
As your fuel source is inside your heater, is there not a risk that it gets too hot and self ignites potentially causing a problem. I think the fuel would be safer in a container underneath with a heat proof layer in-between then metal pipes coming up into the burn chamber with wicks in the pipes.
Daniel, that is an impressive piece of engineering design. I actually watched it several times through since I found it so fascinating. The time may not be too far off when a heating device such as yours could be a Life Saver for many families. A couple of questions if you don't mind. Is the eavestrough pipe Steel or is it Aluminum? Secondly, I recognize that JB Weld is pretty tough, but is it standing up to this amount of constant heat without any degradation? Great Work Daniel with a meticulous attention to DETAIL. Many Thanks for sharing your creative endeavors. Greetings from Ontario, Canada.
Ah Ontario home of the commi girl/gun grabber in charge lol....been up north ont few times myself visiting family ,Im from Yukon originally but live in good ole Alaska now. So ya Id imagine the gutter pipes should be steel not sure aluminum would be good,and im curious about the epoxy over the long haul too. ;)
Reminds me of how useful the kerosene pot belly heater/stoves were when they came out many (100+) years ago, and how important they were to heating peoples abodes. I was fortunate to pick one up for $15, but I still look forward to playing with this project.
This is a unsafe surefire recipe on how to kill your family. First this bad design using the warm oxygen in the room, which us a code violation In the USA. Because you that same oxygen to breath. DO NOT DO THIS. This setup will leak Carbon Monoxide into the house. This is why we do not use Franklin stoves in the home. JBWeld is bot heat resistant and will fail when exposed to prolonged heat thus causing it to fall apart and causing a hours fire. DO NOT DO THIS. Lastly This furnace is too small to heat a Closet much less a whole house. At best it is about 500 BTU. You have No safety precautions, No alarms or CO Detectors. He is not qualified to teach anything. It needs a heat exchanger to make this safe. your welcome A certified Engineer. BSEE, BSME, MEE, MEE, BSCS
Wondering if there is enough waste heat that can be used to power a fan, whether Thermoelectric or External Combustion? Wondering even if there can be significant improvement using a heat pipe from outdoors for a higher differential? I like the idea of the carbon felt and wondering if can make more dual combustion so can use even waste oil to power with negligible odor once to temperature? Neat design!
I'm going to try this, and I had an idea to add. To control the temperature, you could have an interchangeable set of wicks, or maybe wick caps to be left on when you don't want to use them all.
Very well done Daniel, I love your inventive spirit keep up the great work! Looks like a lot of great suggestions in comments. I look forward to your next version of this heater or next invention!
You could probably get a little more heat out of it by having the exhaust wind wind a bit to act as a heat sink and have the air in it exit closer to the outside temperature. Some heat warnings or wire barriers might be good to prevent burning. Last question, how do you roll the wakes up? Could you add a rolling metal peace like on a lantern that would roll all of the wicks up at once to adjust them and could stick out the side so you wouldn’t have to open it?
Got be careful with that. If too much is removed the chimney stops venting through convection and suddenly have you carbon monoxide falling back down into the room, a silent killer. I REALLY hope he has a detector near this thing.
Great job Daniel. Keep up the great work with highly practical and very useful ideas which any novice could attempt and get fantastic benefit. Your work is Priceless to some.
Very nice. The heat exchanger that you have built is similar to the concept of the Recoheat unit from the UK . It forces air through a heat exchanger in the exhaust of a wood stove. Keep up the good work.
While I commend you on this video and idea there's a few things with this build I have to comment on. Let me point out that I’ve been a certified Chimneysweep for a very long time. This method of heating is not a new one and historically dates back a very long way. Styles change but the design is mostly the same. First you must space fireboard and concrete board 1” from the wall for safety reasons, this allows air to flow behind the board and prevent the board from retaining heat at the firebox mounting point and causing a smoldering fire behind it. This is caused by the concrete board coastally transferring the heat to the wood causing it to get hotter over time to the point of combustion. Next issue is that gutters are not made of steel and are aluminum. This means the melting point for the metals is around 1221 degrees F or 660 degrees C. while the output you showed is around 450 degrees F the spots directly over the flames will be much hotter near or at the melting point. You would be better off using copper gutter as copper’s melting point is 1984 degrees F or 1085 degrees C. Also, copper gutter comes in round segments meaning you will get a much better draft. It would be wiser to braze the copper to the steel with bronze rod. I’m unsure if copper gutter could be roll flanged and brazed like steam boilers but this would be a much better option to seal it than JB weld which will break down over time. Your other option would be to use a multitude of 1’pipe flanged into the box in an arrangement that would pick up much more heat. You can find this information by looking up how to make barrel stoves and stream boilers. Then braze the copper gutter around the outside of the box to allow attachment of the input and output piping. Lastly, I would recommend building a means to adjust the wick higher and lower to better control the heat. There are a number of easy ways to do this with some old small gears steel rod and flat wick. I would also as other sugested look into the chimney effect as well as this will cause better movement of air. All in all This is a great build with some minor tweeking you can make it even better.
Doesn't copper give off noxious fumes when heated to too high a temperature??
Could this system be installed in a wood burning stove. Seems like that would solve all the material deficiency issues?
A very informative post
Awesome advice
I commented something very similar to this and I seem to be making many people that keep claiming that I am wrong very angry lol
If I'm not mistaken, most residential gutter drains are made out of aluminum. Not steel. So they can actually melt and burn if the temperature gets hot enough. Not as easy as an aluminum can placed in a fire but it can still oxidize, become brittle, and even melt if the temperature gets high enough where you have it sitting in the flame. Also, instead of an electric fan, a wood stove fan can be modified to move the air and it will not require electricity. Also, the thin sheetrock you painted black will heat up, because it is sheetrock, and because it is black. This heat can transfer through to the wood behind it and can actually cause smoldering and even spontaneous combustion. It should be a reflective surface like sheet metal so it reflects most of the radiant heat. And JB weld should only be used if it is the extreme heat variety but I still wouldn't recommend that. The normal JB weld is only good at 600 degree Farenheit max. But at lower heat such as 200 to 300, it will eventually weaken and crumble. The ultimate goal is having a safe heater that will not cause a fire. And since you are using a fuel source such as cooking oil, etc, that creates a bigger fire hazard without the proper precautions because oil itself burns at about 2700 to 2800 degrees Fahrenheit at the hottest point of the flame. And you have the gutter drain sitting right in the hottest part of the flame judging by what I see at the 15 second mark in the video.
@Cloud Newman still, this is obviously not ridiculously safe. It would be way safer, cheaper, and more efficient to just learn how to run some wire and put an outlet and a space heater there
@@joshdiehl8737 The idea is to be off grid and NOT use electricity.
You can buy steel downspouts still. They are galvanized though which is not good to run hot as they off gas. Putting spacers behind the cement board and covering front with aluminum foil would be cheap and better to reflect heat. High temp furnace cement would be better than JB Weld. and safer.
@@hotpuppy1 then why does he have an electric fan
@@bmxscape actually he never said it was for off-grid. The main reason for the build was its low cost heating which he said was only $5 usd per week. None the less this would certainly be good for off grid as the fan uses very little power and could be supplied by a solar system or as he mentioned a single 12v battery or as others mentioned have the exit pipe rise upward so the heat rises out the top and no fan needed. I think a fan of some kind is still best though for moving more air and circulating it better in the room.
A few minor suggestions to further refine/improve this design:
If you make the indoor pipe a bit longer and have it bend upwards as it leaves the can, similar to the exhaust pipes in the back, the rising hot air in the pipe will draw more air in from the bottom of the pipe, and the fan won't be necessary. Research something called the "Chimney Effect", it's how my blacksmith forge pulls smoke away from the coke so I don't smoke up the whole shop. No fans required.
Also, rather than using aluminum gutters for the indoor pipe, try finding some old copper tubing. It'll handle the heat better long-term, and you can bend it into a spiral inside the can, to gather the heat from the flames more efficiently.
And, actually you could install this whole rig outside the cabin, with just that copper tubing passing into the cabin to spew hot air. This would lose some heating from the can and rain gutters, but would largely eliminate the concerns over Carbon Monoxide leaking into the house and minimize the risk of a fire as well.
Nice. New to the channel. Keeping ideas at play for alternative heating. Taking notes for sure. 😎👍
Not to mention the maintenance of soot removal
The fan is just for blowing warm air into the room through the pipe that goes into the burn chamber but is separated from the burning process.
Carbon monoxide should all be vented out due to the chimney effect and all the burning process is vented straight outside.
This will require some type of fan to get the most benefit , with very little risk u less it broke loose from the wall spilling the fuel oil in the wooden cabin … it would be of utmost importance to have this very securely mounted.
The computer fan will blow CO and other combustion gases straight into the room as it is blowing straight through the combustion chamber. It doesn’t take much to overcome natural draft venting. The combustion chamber fresh air and flue need to be isolated from the air flowing into the room.
Modern furnaces use a fan to push combustion gases out the flue because it doesn’t take much to overcome the natural draft. Something as simple as opening the door or cracking a window can do it. Even a less than optimally sealed building can do it through infiltration.
@@MrSadisticMedic the fan and the air it pushed are separated from the burning chamber unless there is a hole
In the pipe the fan blows through inside the burn chamber it is no different than the the air in the entire room … the chances of this thing back drafting through the intake hole is almost impossible hot air rises it would take a fan or sustained air pressure on the exhaust side to push the carbon monoxide and smoke back through the air intake side. And anyone who has ever used a wood stove or even a fireplace knows it isn’t a issue ..
the only thing I would of done differently is I would of used a lot heavier gauge metal for the hot air line inside the burn chamber that gutter material is very thin and after being heated up for a while could actually burn a hole in it and then you could get some carbon monoxide and smoke in the house ..
I think you people aren’t noticing that it’s a seperate enclosed loop the hot air supply with the fan to the burn chamber and exhaust.
Lots of great comments and suggestions. Mine is to not cut rectangular holes and throw away all that useful metal, but cut Xs and bend the points out to make a solid flange with much more sealing surface area. There are wide/flat jawed pliers and vise grips for sheet metal work that would do a neat job of it. The ducts could also be screwed or riveted to these flanges for a mechanically solid assembly that doesn't rely on or stress the sealant. A solid mount on both sides of the heat exchanger will cause stress as it heats and expands at a different rate and extreme than the sides its attached to.
Great comment bro. It will make the construction closer to rock solid. And ofc better sealing surface. Going to do this in my cabin, and your advice will be followed. Thanks for input
One pointer : the concrete backer board needs to be mounted with a 1 1/2" to 2" space between it and the wall . Otherwise the backer board will heat soak and eventually conduct enough heat to damage the wall.
I made the same mistake with a small wood stove many years ago.
Great design and fabrication 👍👍👍👍😊
Good point. I think he got this message... In decibels:-)
They have building codes for a reason 😂. And one of my chimneys just failed several of them.
Whatd you use for spacers? I had used 3/3" cement board strips behind the cement board to protect the ceiling above the wood stove and the wall to the left of it. These were 2 to 4.5 ft from the stove and the boards still absorb nice amount of heat.
this distance between wall and safety board also lets the air flow and heat up additionally, even if not so much, but still
Not to mention it also makes it more efficient, thats an entire side of the heating unit that will not be radiating into your room but in an exterior wall!!
Daniel a most excellent proof of concept. I built mine out of steel box tubing, that's what I had on hand. We ran it in our icefishing shack and it did very well. I used 6 flat wicks and the gears like a lamp. I'm using used oil so it is free from the machines from our farm. My fan is 12v so a motor cycle battery and small solor panel was plenty this season but next winter I plan to scavenge DC curent from the heat of the burner so no panel on the roof. Thankyou bud.
Is it legal to burn used oil with a horrible burner?
Jb weld will to turn to dust in high heat. I tried it multiple times
Interesting. Both arguments. For the record most hardware stores carry a "adhesive caulk rated for super high Temps. Not sure how it would work on metals but i can at test it works on firebrick
I tend to agree with polok890. I've had very mixed results with JB Weld on different projects. May I suggest using a high-temperature caulking compound or resin for exhausts. Perhaps better, I'd probably go with brazing the joints. There are also various low melt aluminum rods that can be used as well. Alternatively, simply using a cheap high-temperature automotive gasket and the self-tapping sheet metal screws would have worked well. They even have copper-infused gasket maker RTV silicone, which I believe would help with keeping the thermal conductivity throughout the joints. Overall, if this works as well as suggested, I think this is a brilliant idea. I may give it a try and post my results.
@@TheWingnut58 JB Weld also has a high temp formula that works even better than original JB Weld.
@@TheWingnut58 try it on a car exhaust and see what happens.
The rc car engine doesn't get as hot because it's cooled by the fuel and if it's an aircraft like you said... air cooled as well. Sure it's hot I've got an rc airplane too.
JB weld fails at "high heat" above what our little airplane engines get. 😉
@@danielbigger490 m
I like it but umm.... without electricity?? 3:12, Computer fan runs on a 12v DC is the fan 100% necessary?
Not trying to denigrate what you did here. I always admire people for being innovative and putting effort into deriving solutions. It’s a very interesting idea that I haven’t seen before and apparently you’ve been able to make it work. Thanks for uploading
This looks pretty nice for a first version!
I would make one modification. Add a sterling engine fan. You see them on stop of stoves for off-grid cabins, they run completely off of heat and require no electricity. So you just need to add one to the inside vent and it will start working as soon as your furnace starts.
A way to refuel it, and start it without taking it apart would be a goal for the next version.
Not really a first version it's a modified (downgraded) version of what someone made for their snowmobile camper. All power to him for tinkering around with it trying to making it heat a space it wasn't made to heat but it will most likely cause a fire without warning.
@@OverlordDenooh The snowmobile guy used candles in his.
The candles didn't work so Good.
The candles were too far away from the through heat vents to begin with and they melted down even further throughout the night, ending up with a temperature of 50 deg Fahrenheit = 10 deg celcius, and that's in something not much bigger than a dog house; he was in a colder climate though.
Although his heater was built First and the idea probably borrowed by these guys, I'd say this heater performs better, BUT! if he borrowed their idea and made a wicked oil system to fit inside his ( a doubled row of wicks as he has two through heat vents ) His could probably out perform this heater/stove.
I don't think this one is a downgrade at all and in some ways an improvement.
@@OverlordDenooh Downgrade? You some kind of a heater engineer?
If you add a rise to the pipe that lets the hot air into the room, the chimney effect on that pipe would let you run it without the fan.
If you attach a flat plate to the top of the box, you can have a surface that can hold a small kettle to let you make some tea etc.
I would want to be very careful about how the exhaust pipe goes out through the wall. It would be making that bit of wall fairly hot.
A shiny metal surface behind the heater would reflect more heat as infrared into the room.
Exactly use the natural Convection of the hot air to circulate and cut out the need for any kind of fan at all.
@@thee_number_six6227 BTW: It is also an argument for mounting the heater low on the wall. Cooler air is near the bottom of the room. It gives more height for the rising outlet to make a draw like a chimney.
@@kensmith5694 Definitely mate, one thing I have learned using these types of heaters is the placement makes a big difference, fans can be used but at lower rate of speed that pushes warm air out further along the ground and then that rises up and a regular temperature is maintained. I have used this type of heater with and without fans and the convention and air is much hotter without the fan, although the fan option circulates the air more quicker, it is better to control the speed output of the fan. Too fast and it cools the warm air before it's been circulated properly, again the room size makes a big difference. Overall though they work well with and without and smaller rooms do not really need the fan option, in my opinion. But always best to test what works best for your setup!
You didnt pay attention.
Outlet heat at the inner to outter transition os 103° fareinheight
@@hafsalinda What does that have to do with my comment? He only measured the part of the pipe that is exposed to air. He didn't measure what the temperature inside the wall is. Out in the air, the air flowing past the pipe keeps it cooler than the gasses passing through it.
Great build..... yes these type heaters have been around a long time.....
You need to not use drain pipe....use steel. Also put another barrier between the back of the heater and the wall. Your exhaust pipe should be setup like a propane hot water tank exhaust or even a wood stove exhaust.
The small fan pushing the heat through is a very efficient add on to this system. Very good project!! 👍
Could the drain pipe be used in place of ductwork?
Read it again steel was used READ before you comment keeps you looking less you know what.
I love how all of the comments are positive feedback and tips for this young man. 💜
Literally thinking this as I scrolled lol
Not bad...I'm building something similar, but it's based-upon the old kerosene catalytic burners. The wicks are round, and use fiberglass ( original stoves from the 1920s - 1950s used asbestos ). A Stirling-engine fan should be able to pull the indoor air through nicely. Oil has the highest BTU potential of any fuel today, and works fine. Keeping the smoke down and the exhaust outside is the real key to their effectiveness.
I like the Stirling fan idea, The nice thing about it is it makes the heater's total efficiency higher.
It could be extra nifty if it could run a Stirling heat pump too. I don't think the idea is practical but the idea is that you get some additional heat from a heat pump.
Carbon wicks are better than fiberglass and can be made on modified easily. Optimizing for convection circulation you can cut out the need for a fan all together. But the Stirling engine uses what the heater is already making. I plan for K.I.S.S. though as more moving parts means more stuff to break.
@@thee_number_six6227 I'll try carbon for the wicks, but the nature of the type of heater I'm talking about is that the wick is only about 1 inch high, so there's not a lot of draw to worry about. It's more about giving a kerosene-air interface for combustion.
@Joshua Kiser AS wick and a flame do the job. With an active flame you have enough heat to provide the energy needed to start the combustion reaction of the next bit of fuel.
Assuming the kerosene heater is 100% effecient, you will need to source kerosene at 3.90 per gallon to to match the cost per btu of an electric space heater with an electricity rate of $.10 per kwh.
If you have a small airport nearby they might sell you Jet'A fuel, (pure kerosene) it's currently around 3.90 a gallon.
Pretty much the exact same cost per btu as electricity. An electric heat pump would be several times cheaper if they work in your climate.
To daniels dad: thank you for teaching your son, and hopefully all your children, to think for themselves and not to listen to naysayers. Naysayers only want you to give up or fail and true failure is quitting!! Any other failure usually means that you have not thought things through enough (Tesla) or tried enough options (edison). Thank you for teaching truths!! Both of you!!
Thank you for the very positive comment! We will keep up the good work.
@@tomstdenis If this were truly what happens, then humanity would not exist, because regulations have only been around for a minute while we have been working with flames and oil for millennia.
Yeah I agree, your Dad writes gr8 comments.
@ M'agape Thank you for this great comment. 👍 Words to live by.
No bs (direct+informative) and just straight up ingenuity! Love it. First video I watched of you and that beats almost 95% of the other channels... and I do watch a lot of engineering, philosophy, epistemology, maths and whatnot...
Holy Cow! That is a BRILLIANT bit of kit. So simple, and the temperature measurements show it's very efficient with the oil burn. As luck would have it, my shed needs exactly one of these so I'll make one.
Wonderful to stumble across you chanel and I wish you all the best for future projects.
Cheers
Pete' New Zealand.
Pro-tip: JB Weld as a long-term solution, especially with high temps, flame and closed spaces is *not* recommended. If you're going to try this, ask your local store for high-heat sealant and for the love of God, find some heavier-duty stock than just standard storm drain pieces.
*MEA TTER: PLEASE MAKE A SHORT VIDEO OF YOUR BUILD WITH YOUR OWN MODS, THANK YOU.*
You could use a termoelectric generator to drive the fan, it will be driven by the heat = no battery needed.
StoveSeal could be used instead of Jb Weld.
They make Stirling powered fans that are more efficient than that.
WOW, I have a small work shop so I have no room for a wood stove or drip oil heater. THIS is perfect! Thanks for sharing.
Any thoughts on the fumes coming from the oil burning system? Curious about air quality with that burning 24/7 indoors.
I have a question. Wouldn't you need heat resistant flue instead of rain gutters to keep the pipes from getting too hot? (since it is right next to wood?) Or is the gutter pipes only for air circulation? I watched twice to be sure I didn't miss anything. Thank you!
Maybe because it's not producing much more heat than a couple candles?
@@WebberAerialImaging - Plenty of houses have been burned down by "a couple candles"
The concept is very good a bit stronger pipes maybe needed but a good idea..has good potential. On a larger scale it could be very economical for larger building but I understand your concept for its present use. Well done ! Young man.
Nothing stops you from having more than one of them. There could be one in the kitchen/livingroom and one in the bedroom area.
ill heating my basemant with this heater
Well done, and this is the way forward in heating spaces economically and efficiently. I would still advised a C02 monitor in any small spaces though!
Good point.
Also CO1 is more deadly than CO2 and it is generally produced in heaters by incoplete combustion (no enough oxygen) so you not only should vent the heater but have adequate ventilation of the living space. A CO1 meter and an O2 meter would be nice but CO1 is much more important.
@@2Truth4Liberty CO2 Indoor Air Quality Meter are essential for most space heaters, this particular design does have a flue venting system that is separate from the combustion chamber, so unless a leak occurs they are much safe than a regular open and flueless gas/oil appliance space heater, however it is always advisable with any combustion chamber and device to have adequate ventilation and assisted/ monitored with a CO2 Indoor Air Quality Meter. Always best to be safe than sorry!
What about CO1 which is more deadly than CO2?
@@2Truth4Liberty Are you referring to Carbon Dioxide (CO)? As CO(2) is produced at dangerous levels by oxygen-starved combustion in improperly ventilated fuel-burning appliances such as generators, oil and gas furnaces, gas water heaters, gas ovens, gas or kerosene space heaters, fireplaces, and stoves. CO(2) is almost entirely a man-made gas that is not normally found in the earth's atmosphere. that is toxic. CO(2). Many refer to carbon monoxide as one of the most dangerous gases. We use CO and CO2 to identify the separate gases, so I assume you mean Carbon Dioxide and Carbon Monoxide. Both are made from carbon and oxygen molecules. Both are potentially deadly and can cause severe health problems. Both carbon dioxide and carbon monoxide are colorless, odorless and tasteless gases. The concentration levels are where the affects are life threatening, with lower levels of CO required to cause major life and health problems than Co2. CO and CO2 are potentially deadly, this happens at vastly different concentrations. While 35 ppm (0.4%) of CO is quickly life threatening, it takes more than 30,000 ppm (3%) of CO2 to reach the same risk level. I think that's what you are referencing, Co(1) and Co(2).The most important difference is that carbon dioxide is a common, naturally occurring gas required for plant and animal life. CO(2) is not common. It is a byproduct of the burning of fossil fuels such as oil, coal, and gas.
"CO(2) is produced at dangerous levels by oxygen-starved combustion in improperly ventilated fuel-burning appliances such as generators, oil and gas furnaces, gas water heaters, gas ovens, gas or kerosene space heaters, fireplaces, and stoves."
---
Change CO(2) (dioxide) to CO(1) (monoxide) and I woud agree.
Carbon Dioxide is natural - every human breaths it out, and combustion produces it too.
Carbon Monoxide is natural too but is rarely produced in nature as it takes an oxygen starve combustion to make it.
Whenever you see "soot" being formed by a flame - you can know it is creating CO(1) - carbon monoxide - which is very toxic - so a carbon MONOXIDE tester/alarm is HIGHLY advisable for non-vented combustion.
I love this idea! I have some comments and see they offer suggestions on how to better get efficiency. Your design is great, I like to think people can take this and run with it. Again great idea and thank you for sharing it.
Excellent project with fine details ❤. (1) Adding upward angle to the heat exchanger pipe inside the unit -[ ↗]- , will increase the efficiency to move the hot air on it's own without need for 12v fan. Oil Filled Radiator heaters works on same concept to move the hot air by use of hot fins without using any fan. Please check it out. (2) There is an opportunity to increase the efficiency by thin wrapping or insulating cold air intake pipe so it does not play any role to interfere with room air temperature. and same way adding some thorn spike to the exhaust pipe, to extract the out-going heat as it's showing 273F (134C). (3) In current design to refill the oil, it requires to open 8 screws and pull the assembly out, to make it very simple and easy, a small metal pipe can be added with air-tight cap (to avoid CO2 leak), so anyone can add the oil without going thru hassle of opening screws or take-out assembly. (4) To build an oil container, I see you have cut the metal tin and added small glass piece to check the oil level, I believe, this can be easily replaced with a candle jar (glass jar) as a container, it will save time and effort to cut metal tin and add glass window to it.. Thank You for keeping it simple. 👍 I encourage you and looking forward to see next version 2.
I think you can just unlatch the ammo can lid tho....
@@ilike1sand0s68
Yes. Just unlatch the ammo can. That's why they used the smoker gasket on the inside of the lid. I believe.
hello there... I am in the process of making one myself, not for fun but for real need (and I am late cause winter is knocking on my doors)... I found your comments really outstanding... would you help me on the sketching of it?
@@renator8540 if you must a 12v diesel parking heater work great. But I’m goi g to try this idea too. It seems cheaper as to where I use 4 gallon of diesel in 60hrs
NICE to see people enjoy being more efficient.. I have to say that I watched it twice and liked the idea of the oil canister being close to a heat source.. in extreme cold even kerosene becomes thicker ,less viscosity. And, the wicks burn down faster than the rate of oils being pulled up into the wicks to burn. if I hadn't choked on all the smoke I wouldn't be here to tell about it.. but it does/can happen. Will definitely build and get a monitor/alarm.. great reading all the pro tips and stuff. Kuddos to industrious a kiddos. Bravo!
Definitely get carbon mono oxide monitor if you use it, I think it was very thoughtless of him to not warn people for it.
Could you eliminate the fan if you allowed the heat exhaust to somehow angle up as hot air rises it should draw in cool air by its self right?
Nice project Have the wicks short enough to eliminate as much orange flame as you can. The blue flame is what you want for efficiency and clean exhaust.
Exactly right. Yellow flame in the pipe covered with soot is a good indicator that a lot of that fuel is being wasted as being sent up the exhaust pipe and coating inside of the exhaust pipe with black spot that eventually could get thick and hot enough to ignite possibly?
@@howtogetoutofbabylon8978 I'm familiar with the sooty exhaust pipes on the older cars. I've never heard of exhaust pipe flaming in car exhausts, but it's a thought. I'm thinking the high flow rate would hinder any flame along with lack of oxygen.
Nicely done. Lots of opportunities for optimisation and variation. Main great thing if this is that you’re venting the fumes 😊❤
You can solve the top being hot by moving the intake and outtake flush with the upper portion, or making both holes larger to the same effect. This increases movement of air over the surface area making the heater more efficient at keeping itself cool and the room warmer.
wow
This is AWESOME...question....I see your using a 12volt power adapter to assist with circulating the heat from the unit around. In the event we don't have power...what is a good suggestion to assist with circulating heat from the unit?
You deserve a medal 🥇 for saving EU from freezing cold. Temps this is a great design.
Uuh….I don’t know where you live, but I live in Sweden and we’re perfectly fine
How do you refill and manage the wicks?
That's a great idea! You have my imagination going. Filling my tank cost me over $1000. I think wick mechanisms are still available. Installing a damper on the air intake might offer throttle, and could make the fire box hotter. Using tape wick adjusters drilled through the cover would make the flames allot bigger and adjustable. Adding heat sinks fastened to the outside of the duct, adding area like baseboard heat fins, might add more temperature to the duct. Boilers are designed that the hot air flow slows down passing through upper manifold and heats the water more, before the heated air is wasted up the chimney. Sitting a line of rocks across the top of the duct might hold more heat in the box.
I would think a heavy steel pipe would be better horizontally. That would keep carbon dioxide outta cabin. Also a heat plate on the top so you could warm coffee ect
Change the wick to be a carbon fiber pad. Carbon fiber doesn't burn, but will wick the oil up, so it is an everlasting wick.
Did this on my old halve pot belly wood buring stove.. And got it so hot it was bright red at night and burned slow and steady for hours..used less wood too.
I tell people about it with wood stoves and they look at me like I'm talking in toungs or something..they don't get it.. Reducing the air flow causes a hot fire and burning of the wood gas as well. They think the inlet air is doing that alone and they are wrong. Its far more efficient with a valve on the exhaust side. I could regulate both to get a perfect burn with no smoke at all out the exhaust chimney. And it would keep the place toasty all night long.
That's why chimneys have a flue. That's exactly what you are describing
@@leadboots72 I was in the business. Dad ran a heating oil company. PETRO bought and dad dismantled the 20 million gallon oil terminal he managed. I installed the controllers on countless heating and hot water systems. I installed my oil boiler myself. I use under 600 gallons of oil to heat a 1500sqft NY home. My neighbors with similar size homes are burning 1000-1400 gallons annually. I told 2 neighbors, they need a baffling kit or it's cheaper to buy a new boiler. FACT oil companies install the biggest flow nozzle they can put in your boiler, to burn more oil is great for the oil business. I tune my boiler, that I installed, every year since I installed my work horse boiler in 1997. I wired heating and ac systems since 1985. Ask me anything, and I rarely don't have a solution.
How often do you have to adjust the height of the wicks?
Very well designed piece of equipment. They have built a heat-exchanger system with two separate air systems. An uplift intake, from outside, (to feed combustion), and a down-draft smoke"stack to remove the smoke and "ghost turds" caused from oil burning, vented outside, and an inside air intake, via a fan-forced up-lift system, where a continuous pipe allows the air to travel thru the pipe and back into the room, but passing thru a flame heated surface. There is a temperature exchange made inside the chamber but two separate airs can't mix.
This is a simple, but very impressive heating system. Its inventor needs to be commended. You should patent this furnace and manufacture them. This is a very nice concept and has the chance to change the way we heat, especially in "Off the grid" areas, like "BOB-HOUSES," Where folks take a structure out on a frozen lake and bore a hole in the ice and fish. This would easily heat one of those huts. It would also be an excellent CAMP/TENT HEATER. The applications could be endless. GREAT DESIGN. (I would, however; TIG weld the joints together instead of JB Welding them. JB Weld is good for a lot of things but it is STILL glue. TIG Welding is permanent. (just saying). (another item is the direct area where the flames touch. Over time, this area will break-down. You should think, seriously, about using a piece of thicker steel there (1/8" thick hot-rolled steel), and then pass the solid tubing just touching it, thru, just above it. That way the thicker stuff would take the heat and transfer the pure heat to the thru-pipe duct.
Bill, from Tn. 🇺🇸
unfortunately, you can not patent something that you have put on youtube To summarize so far, you should wait to file your first patent application as long as possible, but be sure to file before a first public disclosure, public use, or offer for sale. because at that point you CAN no longer get a patent!
If you want to improve the life, use some heavier gauge round duct and oval it. Round duct for exhaust is sold in two gauges. Go with the heavier. And it's already shaped for a computer fan at 4-6". Speaking of computer parts. Use a heatsink on a piece of plate steel to amp that efficiency up.
Great little project! My only suggestion is to have a CO detector in the room just in case a sealing point goes bad. You don't want to wake up dead from CO the silent killer
My thoughts too. Am I missing something because no one else is commenting on it
*"WAKE UP DEAD," GREAT OXYMORON!!!*
@@jeusgarcia8597 Thanks!
Hey Daniel can I order one of these already assembled? I live in a 22 ft 5 window short bus and this would be perfect for Heating it through the winter.
Nice build. I'll hold off on any criticism as it has been covered in previous comments. Stainless steel and GTAW/TIG construction would take this design to the next level.
Great concept. Besides the potential issue with JB weld, consider adding a sheet of metal to the surface of your heat resistant backing board to also help passively radiate the heat and keep the burner cooler if the fan dies. Some passive safety is worth the extra metal.
The temperatures you showed look okay for the jb weld, maybe, but still I'd look at that as more a really great proof of concept. Great job!
This is a great idea. Radiant heat has to be reflected in order to make a difference.
%
Simple and creative. Compliments to you guys for thinking outside the box and realizing all these projects, bravo!
A young guy doing something ,,got my vote
Except he’s gonna burn his cabin down eventually. That aluminum and it’s too close to the wall.
no gloves while cutting metal. safety #1,our eyes and hands is paramount, fire safety.
Boy is an idiot 😂😅😂😅😂😅😂😅
This video is doing good for society at this point in history.
This is one of the coolest videos I've seen for heating
You may be able to use fiberglass wicks. They never burn down. They’re basically a forever wick.
200 IQ
I wonder if the fiberglass wicks will draw thicker oils as well?
Excellent job, this is the true purpose of UA-cam 👍🏽👍🏽👍🏽
Yeah and you have to watch endless ads, because youtube is paying for this BS. Yeah. adblocker yeah. But. Should be this way? (Like more BS on youtube than valuable content?)
Hey guys that is an awesome idea. As someone else mentioned the materials are a bit different then you thought and to make it safer you just have to take down the concrete board and put in some minimum 1" metal spacers that can also be used to hang back up the board ,once its installed to the wall. I would have to say i would have searched for a different box as i love my ammo boxes, well for ammo! lolBut in a SHTF or grid down situation i could build one of these with materials in my garage. As long as you dont let it get too hot ,its just fine! Although if you get the chance i would go with metal stove piping. It comes in all different sizes. That way if your sleeping it cant get too hot. Or someone should always be awake, to keep an eye on it. Safety 1st guys!?! But that is some Mcgyver stuff there! awesome video!!!
Consider a thermocouple on the top smoke exhaust, you may get enough power to run your hot air just from the heat of the exhaust.
Really great job, I won't be sad and sorry and tell you what you could or could not do better. They are some bitter people around that pass their criticism as good advice. You have done a fantastic job. Keep up the good work you are very innovative.
EXCELLENT work, young man!!! As an American, I am so proud of you!!! Thank you
By the way, your finish product has a beautiful art form and presentation. That's very hard to achieve but you made it look easy. Well done!
I love the video. I'm also pleased to see all the positive feedback and suggestions. I haven't seen anyone in the comment section shitting all over the ideas and project this young man is involved in. Cudos all around.
Thank you Gentlemen!! I am soon to be 63. i envy you for doing something really good for the people at your young age. Keep doing this awesome invention.
This is so well done, great video, I can see myself building this.
Brilliant. The only thing left is to come up wit the design which will fit into a standard chimney and you are golden.
Thank you for this project. It's been a while since someone's content got my wheels turning. Are you going to offer the build plans, or complete video for sale? A wick adjuster would be a cool mod. Well done. Good on you! 👍🏽
After reading through many of the comments (I'll be back) I must say the engagement with and participation from your audience is of great value. So many bright minds here. Again, well done!
The group brainstorming here is awesome...
(Other Than the Negative Nancy's:-( )
I truly love this stove the way you made it and also the work you did on there and I would love to have seen that video longer and also updates of the stove and maybe more improvements of it also if there's any that you made I hope you do come up with more videos
I've got a recommendation about the computer fan being used for convection. I'd go slightly smaller on the fan, for a few theoretical reasons. You reduce power draw which opens up more options to run said fan off of smaller solar panel/power bank set ups for longer duration. Also, the air moves through and exits the stove more slowly thus giving the air inside the can/stove a chance to reach a slightly higher temp before exiting. This might even reduce the oil wicking strength a little and slow the burn time on the oil, meaning you might end up using less oil over a set amount of time because the slower airflow would pull less oil from the wick as it burned. I realize that these factor differences would be small and probably theoretical at best but looking at it from a fallout emergency or off-grid standpoint, it might be something to consider. Also, I agree with the worlds most scientific chimney sweep dude. Insulate the crap outta your mounting points for that stove because turning your entire cabin into the stove would be really bad. You'd be warm AF though... LoL
The heat coming out with his current setup reads above 400°, so not sure on slower airflow, it'd be a hotbox. lol. The reason I replied, was actually in reference to the air flow. How would the air traveling through the exchanger affect the amount of wicking? The only reason I ask is that the air travelling through that supply line should not affect the airflow or wicking through the combustion chamber; I would think as the air is from two separate sources. The chamber that supplies ari for the burner comes from outside and exhausts outside, while the air supplied to the room is recirculated via the fan. I'm sorry if this doesn't come out right, I am genuinely curious.
The smaller fan gives less cubic feet of airflow per powerdraw, I would suggest using a quality computerfan like noctua or corsair. They are usually very silent decpite having good airflow. They also last very long
@@jvinsnes and a PWM controller so you can dial in the airflow/noise ratio
Actually, as a PC builder. A larger fan at a lower speed is not only quieter than a smaller fan, but pushes more air cfm.
That computer fan draws like .1 amps or something...it's tiny
How do you adjust the wicks? Do you have to shut down the heater and then restart it until you get to the correct settings? Maybe you could use some small watch gears on a shaft and aknob to adjust the wicks during the heat cycle. Like a oil lamp. Just a thought.
Good job young man. I like this simple design for a good heater.
BRAVO on your Creativity & Safety!
Consider thermally mounting inside your Heat-Exchanger , an additional copper or aluminum finned heat-exchanger (from an old computer) to create more surface area inside your heat-exchanger. You will get more heat out that way.
You should also test "Activated Carbon Felt" as a wick-material. Pretty good capillary action for most liquids. You may need a few drops of Alcohol to get it started, depending on the oil used.
And Activated Carbon Felt is heat resistant (very little smoke if any).
Best of Luck - Regards.
Great job man.
One idea I have is maybe a slider with a heat resistant handle off the side where you could cover the wicks to regulate the heat output.
I was thinking something like a lantern wick adjuster or a damper of somekind.
So how often would you have to replace the ammo box and also the exhaust pipe since it appears to just be rain gutter?
The concrete used as a heat shield really should have an air gap between it and the wall. It will still get hot and the wood behind it.
Yes, and it should be made reflective so it reflects the IR.
I think two plates is even better.
Directly on the wall you have the cement board.
A short distance out from it you have a sheet of metal
Then there is a space before you get to the heater.
They said there was an inch air gap between them
Awesome! Much less expensive than the furnace system for our mobile home.
This is particularly interesting as the cost of domestic electricity and gas has become literally unaffordable for many in the UK, with people having to choose between heating or eating.
Its specifically hard hitting elderly people and young children.
Thank you for your excellent video tutorial, I would very much appreciate it if you could shed some light (pun intended!) on the brand and suppliers of the oil that you use.
Your cabin is beautiful, the breadboard panels are gorgeous.
@@KastorFlux no it's not. Freezing is a tragedy. Living is a choice but cut short by greedy globalists that want to limit the lives of others..........
Just think about it.
Old cooking oils, which can go bad in 1 year, that are not useful for taste can be recycled for heat. Same thing with biodiesel used for traveling down the road.
This young man has found a useful solution while you hack away at his attempts to create useful solutions.
You're right Matthew Kastor, he should just stay home and play endless xbox or porn forever, contribute nothing and wait on that ubi payment.
Feel stupid yet, Matthew?
Wondering if we can do this without the fan and without mounting it. Maybe like a giant candle or oil lamp sort of.
I am a little concerned about whether JB Weld is flammable or can give off toxic fumes. Also question painting the fire resistant concrete board, unless you are using fire retardant paint. Other than that, real smart idea, normal oil lamps will give off heat, but you usually have to put up with some kind of smell from it, this makes it to where you can use any kind of oil that burns, and is quite efficient... nice!
Certain JB Weld expoxys are heat resistant to up to 1500 degrees.
@@nicnackaful yes, especially the red package... that is what you would use around a water pump in a car (among other applications).
@@nicnackaful Good to know, ty.
After reading the comment from tech people giving improvement advice which is invaluable. I want to compliment on all aspects of video making. I hope you continue to take on new things as you have a great voice for narrative work. Editing the video keeping it the steps short and to the point to keep folks interest. Being good at this is where you guys stong points. Take on more projects and you will have a awesome channel. Good luck
Awesome, I love the ingenuity and creativity in this project! That fan is critical however and perhaps a temperature monitor with an alert at the output would help a lot. Some type of oils have low combustion temperatures. Some day (maybe years from now) the fan will fail. When it does, and if during the night, the temperature inside the unit will increase rapidly (especially with 10 wicks). From there it's a matter of minutes (let's say less than 1 hour) before the small space inside that unit gets hot enough for the whole gallon of oil to spontaneously catch on fire (the increasing heat will pull air on it's own through the pipe). As said, this is awesome; I would just add a temperature monitor so an audible alarm goes off if it goes above a set threshold.
I was thinking the same thing. I would add heatsinks with peltiers around the oil container, it will create electricity, not much when its warm, but a lot when its hot, this electric could be used to power an emergency fan and an alarm.
@@PF-gi9vv Oh I really like that approach, excellent idea!
What about the CO levels inside the cabin? it would be nice to monitor it on a 24 hour period.
I saw another heater similar to this on another channel. I like this better because it seems safer. The only thing that worries me about a homemade heater is the carbon monoxide risk. This setup seems much safer than some I've seen. I would still want a CO2 alarm, just in case.
Carbon Monoxide is CO. CO2 is Carbon Dioxide. I would suggest buying a CO (Carbon Monoxide) alarm, as that is the poisonous gas.
@OpenYourMind jb weld is only good to 200 degrees so i wouldn't trust it for long term. maybe silicone which is much higher temp.
@@ronblack7870 jb weld high heat putty is rated for 450 degrees continuous
@OpenYourMind you should have a carbon monoxide detector because the heating and cooling can cause these materials to crack and carbon monoxide is undetectable by your senses. You should have a carbon monoxide detector if you have a furnace fueled by natural gas for the same reason.
@@nealeburgess6756 You are right and wrong. BOTH CO and CO2 are problematic for your lungs. You need 02 to breath, either one of those with make you go to sleep and never wake up due to O2 depletion.
An alternate to the several wicks, might be getting several oil-lamp wick holders, that have the adjusters built-in. Those normally screw onto an oil lamp base, but could be mounted onto a similar metal plate as you did. That could both increase the light/heat, & ease wick adjusting.
Or, instead of oil, one could make an alcohol burner to go into a container that has room-air recycle & fresh air + exhaust. One guy makes his using 2 recycled cans, a carbon fiber filter as a round wick, & stainless steel window screen as a vertical round mantle.
He sets his burner between 2 cake pans, separated by a metal shield.
But, it could as well be fitted inside a larger metal box w/glass door….that could increase safety & efficacy.
Alcohol burners are very easy to make; they do a “batch-burn”, so, you make them to hold about as much alcohol as is needed for the period of time you want to use them.
A couple dampers could be used at air intake & outlets, to shut it down mid-burn.
Where can a person locate copper tubing
Alcohol isn't the cheapest of fuels and around 1/3 less heat per litre compared to most other liquid fuels. Just too expensive, I have tried it myself; Great though for camping stoves or emergencies.
@@hopejeske9123 Usually at hardware stores.
@@pa_maj.MARTINI-van-MAN Correct. No one claimed that alcohol burned hotter.
Oils like kerosene have more BTUs. Then comes gasses like LP & NG. Alcohol has lower BTUs in it.
That said…consider supplies.
If you cannot get supplies refilled, you won’t be burning oils. Not unless you can grow oil-producing plants & can process them.
But, one can more easily (relatively) make alcohol from plant substrates.
Or, might harvest methane from compost.
@@pa_maj.MARTINI-van-MAN One can get rubbing alcohol still fairly cheap.
I like rocket stoves, which can burn pine ones, sticks, small branches cut up…forest floor debris that can be fairly easily gathered.
Can make then from numerous recycled materials, or concrete or rocks & cement.
Or buy ones ready made ( just be sure they really are rocket stoves, not fakes). Real ones burn hot & fast, so have very little effluent.
Is that a power outlet running a fan “WITHOUT electricity”???
What type of oil did you use?
I've seen a lot of hokey home made inventions but this 1 actually impressed me! I truly see the value in it, especially as a potential small greenhouse heater. I also can imagine it being coupled with a thermal mass or heat sink fins to extract even more heat, therefore, reducing your oil consumption.😀
things like this legit make my brain explode with ideas. and the comments sections often have some great information as well, which is a great bonus. Even just keeping ideas like these tucked in my beard for a tougher time I hope may never come is so incredibly worthwhile, but I have a more direct and immediate use for such things.
We rely completely on space heaters during the winter, and they CONSTANTLY break due to overzealous safety features. This design is inspiring, and I'm going to look into building something based on it for our 340 sqft home. Thanks so much!
If you see this comment, I'd love an update on how this setup weathered its first season, and anything new you've learned since posting this vid.
I hope you read some of the other top comments for improvements to this design.
340 square ft is not a home
@@WaitWhatsMyName Ok, well whatever the hell this thing is we've been living in for nine years, I'm gonna try building an oil heater for it.
@@coalcreekdefense8106 i think that square footage is considered a storage box
Why not? It’s the same size as your mother’s vagina and you lived up in there for 9 months.
What kind of oil did you use and where did you get it?
I'm sure I'm the only one that was following the steps and wondered how we went from just getting started to "We are using 10 braided oil lamp wicks, we're very impressed with the final outcome of the heater."
Very nice build. I agree with using the carbon felt as the wick. Genius.
What I like about it is, you didn't call it "free energy". Thank you!
It's sad that even has to be said. You'd think people wouldn't either use or fall for the 'free energy' thing anymore. There are lots of ways to scavenge lost or wasted energy, but it never 'just appears for free', the energy has got to be there in the first place. They could take it a step further too, and might be able to power that fan with a Stirling Engine on the air pipes, and scavenge the energy needed for that from their heater too.
Then they could say "Free Energy" *with every purchase of fuel ;)
I like that he did not said, heating your home without learning C++.
So what is the energy source he is using? He said "oil". What kind of oil is it, and is it readily available?
@@kenhillicoss569 He showed the container when he put it in the stove, some kind of lamp oil, I think he said but I don't remember. Any kind would do, kerosene being the most common and probably cheapest.
I'm gonna steal this and call it free energy
As your fuel source is inside your heater, is there not a risk that it gets too hot and self ignites potentially causing a problem. I think the fuel would be safer in a container underneath with a heat proof layer in-between then metal pipes coming up into the burn chamber with wicks in the pipes.
Brilliant work! Sending love and warm greetings from Missouri.
Very slick, it goes to show when you think outside of the box you can do magical things.
Daniel, that is an impressive piece of engineering design. I actually watched it several times through since I found it so fascinating. The time may not be too far off when a heating device such as yours could be a Life Saver for many families. A couple of questions if you don't mind. Is the eavestrough pipe Steel or is it Aluminum? Secondly, I recognize that JB Weld is pretty tough, but is it standing up to this amount of constant heat without any degradation? Great Work Daniel with a meticulous attention to DETAIL. Many Thanks for sharing your creative endeavors. Greetings from Ontario, Canada.
It’ll hold I bet but it’s nasty fumes when hot
Ah Ontario home of the commi girl/gun grabber in charge lol....been up north ont few times myself visiting family ,Im from Yukon originally but live in good ole Alaska now. So ya Id imagine the gutter pipes should be steel not sure aluminum would be good,and im curious about the epoxy over the long haul too. ;)
Reminds me of how useful the kerosene pot belly heater/stoves were when they came out many (100+) years ago, and how important they were to heating peoples abodes. I was fortunate to pick one up for $15, but I still look forward to playing with this project.
This is a unsafe surefire recipe on how to kill your family.
First this bad design using the warm oxygen in the room, which us a code violation In the USA. Because you that same oxygen to breath. DO NOT DO THIS.
This setup will leak Carbon Monoxide into the house. This is why we do not use Franklin stoves in the home.
JBWeld is bot heat resistant and will fail when exposed to prolonged heat thus causing it to fall apart and causing a hours fire.
DO NOT DO THIS.
Lastly This furnace is too small to heat a Closet much less a whole house. At best it is about 500 BTU.
You have No safety precautions, No alarms or CO Detectors.
He is not qualified to teach anything.
It needs a heat exchanger to make this safe.
your welcome
A certified Engineer. BSEE, BSME, MEE, MEE, BSCS
Hi, Where do you get the fresh air in to the burn chamber?
Toward the end he showed an intake pipe behind the unit going out the wall, and the top pipe comes out right above it.
@@k.b.tidwell Thanks so lot
Wondering if there is enough waste heat that can be used to power a fan, whether Thermoelectric or External Combustion? Wondering even if there can be significant improvement using a heat pipe from outdoors for a higher differential? I like the idea of the carbon felt and wondering if can make more dual combustion so can use even waste oil to power with negligible odor once to temperature? Neat design!
Liked, commented and subscribed for that spirit!
I really enjoyed watching your video and I'm sharing it on my post and with friends thank you so much and I hope you're keeping warm
Great project! I’m glad I discovered your channel. Keep up the great work guys!
I'm going to try this, and I had an idea to add. To control the temperature, you could have an interchangeable set of wicks, or maybe wick caps to be left on when you don't want to use them all.
Very well done Daniel, I love your inventive spirit keep up the great work!
Looks like a lot of great suggestions in comments. I look forward to your next version of this heater or next invention!
agreed
Cool video but why does the title say "WITHOUT electricity" when you actually need some ?
You could probably get a little more heat out of it by having the exhaust wind wind a bit to act as a heat sink and have the air in it exit closer to the outside temperature. Some heat warnings or wire barriers might be good to prevent burning. Last question, how do you roll the wakes up? Could you add a rolling metal peace like on a lantern that would roll all of the wicks up at once to adjust them and could stick out the side so you wouldn’t have to open it?
Got be careful with that. If too much is removed the chimney stops venting through convection and suddenly have you carbon monoxide falling back down into the room, a silent killer. I REALLY hope he has a detector near this thing.
In the heater box, which was getting very hot, is there any risk of the oil reaching flash point?
Great job Daniel. Keep up the great work with highly practical and very useful ideas which any novice could attempt and get fantastic benefit.
Your work is Priceless to some.
Very nice. The heat exchanger that you have built is similar to the concept of the Recoheat unit from the UK . It forces air through a heat exchanger in the exhaust of a wood stove. Keep up the good work.
Humm! Great idea, and great suggestions in making it better. I’m wondering if these are available as a pre build unit. I’m not equipped to build one.
This is amazing. Thanks for sharing!