Kitchen rewire 1st Fix - An Electricians Day in London | Thomas Nagy
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- Опубліковано 18 гру 2024
- Following on from the video a few weeks ago where a fridge had caught fire and destroyed a kitchen, i'm now back to rewire the kitchen.
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Thomas Nagy
WARNING:
This video is for entertainment purposes only. If you use the information from this video for your own projects then you assume complete responsibility for the results.
Still Working at half ten at night and STILL recording and setting up cameras. That is one committed man right there!
Nice nod to BigClive! 😆
I’ve really grown to love your videos. I do the job everyday but more commercial and industrial, have had enough by the time I’m home, and then I find myself 1 hour in to your videos. Keep up the vids dude 👍🏻
Hello Thomas
Been watching your videos for a couple of months now and you remind me of myself 10 years ago.
It’s good to see someone who does a quality job, and also someone who would prefer to walk away from a job rather than do half a job because the customer won’t pay for it.
I was lucky to get out of the domestic game by taking over a company that we used to sub contract for, that had large commercial and industrial contracts.
One tip mate, up you if you take it, I stopped using capping in my 20s, got fed up with smacking my fingers or time consuming drill and plug, and still running risk of damaging cables with the drill, I started using oval conduit and crampets, we used to bend the crampets over because they are designed for round conduit, drill a 5.5hole and use the bolster end in the SDS to hammer them in, I found it massively quicker, a better job, and only a little bit more expensive
Keep up the good work
Cheers
Colin
Honestly the way you present and explain is awesome and clearly you love what you do
I’ve been in electrician business for 15 years but still love watching your videos as every day is a school day theirs always something you can improve on . So thanks 👍 keep it up bud
Brilliant vlogs, the commitment to filming throughout a long day is commendable!
11pm finish on a Friday. The side people dont see to been self employed 👍
Yep, worked till 11ish one night on a kitchen lighting install, because I didn't wanna come back the next day. (my choice, the customer was fine either way). His missus turned up at 10 and said 'working till this time and he ain't even Polish' LOL
@@YGELLYPIKER 🤣
Does it matter what time you finish working as long as your earning £
Yes ! We wanna watch another video Thomas !! No doubts !! Absolutely interesting stuff you've been telling and the blog itself !!!
Thanks for the update buddy realy Like your videos. Self just got in apprenticeship to become electrician here in Canada this most rewarding job you can have and having electricians like you is the best thing we can have and people like you showing others that not all electricians are assholes lol wish more electricians are like you to deliver the best job every time cheers
Its always fun to watch building in other countries, heck even different areas with vastly different building codes. Here in Texas everything is wood stick frame, and easy to wire. Want a box here or there, no problem. There it seems you don't want the guy to come back and say well we need it 5" over to the left and up two inches. Lots of time to prep and remove the block to get a box where you need it.
Great video.
Haven't you thought about getting a wall chaser? You can make 2 runs to get a wide channel, connect it to a dust extractor, much cleaner than a grinder.
Using a wall chaser and hoover is way much easier and virtually dust free. Also I use 20mm galv couplers and short reach brass bushes between boxes, looks neater after tiling and keeps multiple joined boxes level.
Likibg the vids, gives a real insight into the work that goes in that is hidden that nobody sees after the finish 👍
I rarely subscribe to channels but Thomas, I have to yours. Well filmed, well articulated, well presented and well done. The comments below are also very informative. Ta lad.
You are just so entertaining. Keep up the good work
Nice video, I am recently started and done a lot of work sort of start 8:00 , finish 21:30 and at the end Lanlord didn’t want to pay the full price, he said 300 a day is what you guys normally earn
I'm not an electrician, or anything to do with manual labouring, however, I love watching these vlogs! Keep it up Thomas!
Soo I'm not even an electrician (for about three months I was an apprentice though) but I do find your videos really enjoyable to watch. Plus I learn all kinds of new and useful stuff for when I do some stuff around the house (don't worry I do know what I'm doing xP)
Oh my god an electrician who tidys up after himself !!!
I ocasionally do that too
Wall dogs or tap cons! Not to sure if they have them in the uk but well used over here in canada! They save a lot of time and hold tight on brick, block, concrete or whatever else!
I remember the first job I came across wall dogs in Australia, these things are beautiful and could solve the conflict between the US and North Korea.
That fucking intro! I spat my tea on my keyboard and laughed so hard.
One of your best Thomas. Cross cuts on the chasing - nice idea. It seems to give big lumps of rubble and quicker to clear up which seems to take too much of the day. Kitchen diagrams on the walls - again nice idea. Less chance of an error on those late nights. Takes some dedication to still set up for filming at 11o'clock. Enjoy Paris.
I only found you from BigClive and I'm hooked.love your channel.. Which reminds me I love your channel. Sorry could help myself.
Thomas you are great electrician and entertainer =] probably first in uk or on YT who is showing work ! Your channel will grow fast ! It is always nice to watch you . I appreciate your time here and to put this videos together. PS = Get yourself a grinder with vacuum attachment and vacuum the jobsite , you and video will be much cleaner =] Great work !
Keep up the good work Tom. Thanks also for the advice regarding socket placement under the corner cupboard.
Try using tapcons! All you have to do is prettily your hole and drive them in, they work extremely well on all kinds of masonry, even brick and concrete slabs
Tommas you should invest in a chasing machine with the hoover to connect to it,well worth it no more dust and cuts the chases out perfectly and much quicker than a grinder.
I got one from Screwfix a few years back for about £80, well worth the money.
I got myself the Erbauer chaser from screwfix. Use it with a shop vac with the auto start socket outlet on. Makes nice consistent channels with loads less dust. Also I like using oval conduit with the matching clips. Only need to drill and plug two holes in the wall for each length of conduit. Everyone has their own way of doing things, no absolute right or wrong way.
Just taping the buissness end of a half decent vacuumcleaner along the grinder reduces the ammount of crap that can plaster your throat and lunges. It also keeps the owner and other workers on the job really happy not having to deal with everything being covered in dust.
The Titan one? I think it was about £90 when I got that from screwfix about 2 years ago, paid for itself and more within a week.
Hmmm walk chasers eh ,fucking bollocks you still have to get out the grinder or watever to finish the chase at the top where the wall chaser can’t get into plus the added space the chaser hoover etc takes up in van.buying cheap shite ain’t gonna the way to go,hilti forever xxx
I love it in the morning when your in the van talking 😂
You earned your money that day.... no changing light bulbs or swapping out fire extinguishers
Kitchen fitters gonna love you with the conduit on the floor!
Best intro yet!
Loved the intro as I do remember that video from bigclive I think it was last year. Fitting way for the end of these Easter bunnies
Recently discoverd this channel, very entertaining and high quality content keep it up!
If you have a loose fixing and not biting sufficiently enough due to an enlarged hole when drilling with an sds still, perhaps try buying a few packs of Fischer ‘wet n fix’ plug fixings. Very handy and get you out the sh7t at times!
10:56 Excellent choice in music... 👌👌👌👍👍👍
Looks great and thank you for sharing.. Interested to know if you have ever used a wall chaser, if not, why not? Thanks
Just seen you on city road, in joy watching your videos,
Great videos love watching them and very informative, keep them coming.
Your best intro yet :-) Love your videos
I can't speak for other joiners, but I have always made the finish height of the worktop 900mm. So if it's s 40mm worktop then the base units will finish at 860mm... and then I normally go 525mm up from the worktop to the underside of the wall units. But that's just how I do it, as I say I'm not sure about others?
On first fix I simply run the cables to the area in between the wall unit and worktop space. When the worktops fitted and the client has decided on the tile size, I ask them to leave a sample tile, then I chop out the boxes to fall on the second row of tiles. Works like a charm for far less tile cutting, thus looks the dogs danglers, and it`s no real hardship chopping out the few accessories which are above worktop height. Nothing worse than measuring, marking out, wearing the bubble in the spirit level out, only to find something looks pissed when everything`s done.
I do the same, 900mm from ffl to top of worktop at the middle of washing machine space and laser level around the room. Height of boxes depend on the tiles used but normally try to have it so the bottom of the box lines up with a grout line, 2 or 3 tiles up depending on the size. 525mm from worktop is a good height but I do usually adjust to finish with a full tile. The beauty of being a multitrader is that you can make everything easy for yourself.
I like your channel. It shows me the practical side of C&G 2330, part 1, I was unable to follow up.
Big Clive is good. Long live the explosion containment pie dish.
Both of you bring order out of disorder.
Excellent video mate!
It's a bit different from over here on the mainland. We use PVC-conduit (usually 16 or 19mm), bend it and route in through the wall. Then we install all the required (seperate) wires, L(1,2,3), N, PE, light switch wire etc.
Who still uses rigid conduit that needs to be bent inside walls? Most contries that do use conduit (pretty much everyone west of the Iron Curtain except Germany, the UK and Ireland) use rolls of flexible PVC conduit.
Rigid is mostly used for exposed work in cellars, garages, lofts etc. but not completely closed, only as sleeving. Looks like garbage but really speeds up work, only one clip every metre (vertical) or 50 cm (horizontal), measure, drill for the clips, screw clips to the wall, cut conduit to length (about 10 cm short at each bend or device), pull cable and push conduit into the clips.
Top work again Shame more sparks don't work like your self
Haha! My two favourite channels, yours and Big Clive's!
Sounds like you have got a cold coming on Tom. Have a great break. See on the next one
7:05 Isn't there something in the regs about cables to power circuits having to be min 1.5mm?
In Scotland they mostly use 1mm for lights and stuff but in the North East England the use 1.5. Always thought that's why they used the 1.5, cos you could use it for lights and power.
Obviously 2.5 for ring, radial, etc.
I think most use 1.5mm as there isn't much of a price difference and obviously have a higher margin for load carrying capacity.
Good job quality work
Why is the hob one mil cable are you switching with contactors or something
Presumably it's just the ignitor on a gas hob, on a 3 A fused spur
For stuff that isn't getting touched much and plastered I hit it with a tiny masonry bit and fire a large gauge screw in, deep threads and something smaller than the threads but bigger than the shank. It's still drilling but means put it on, drill screw rather than marking out for plugs. It's a solid enough job but won't take knocks as well as plugged holes do.
when i do i rewire i use a chasing machine and use oval conduit/capping that fits snug and only needs a nail or 2 might be expensive to start but saves ur thumbs
Oval and foam to hold that to the wall. No saddles or screws. Clean quick and safe.
If only we had used grinders back when I was on work experience in 2000. All we had was chasing chisels, we did have a "chasing machine" but that was very noisy and a pain to use so was rarely ever used on a job. Seeing you use a grinder and an SDS drill makes it look sooooo much easier.....and faster to chase.
@ 6.53 just looking at the cables coming down from capping, which runs alone the top of the first Duel box and underneath second Duel box into right hand compartment, my preference is to run the cables through the first box then second box so you can get to those cables and there are not plastered into the fabric of the walls ....just in case
Tom is there a reason that the oven is a 2.5mm? (7:05), Im sure if the spec dictates that its fine for that particular oven which is odd anyway but why wouldnt you be installing a 6mm or 10mm for future use? 2.5mm isnt an oven cable! just wondering?!
Good video tom I love the start
That was one long hard days work on your own fair play, love the videos
Capping nails and screws each have their place with capping. We don't use capping much any more, because cutting slightly deeper for a 20mm pvc conduit run is easier... and you can use crampets to hold it back. Plus you gain 'easy rewire in 40 yrs time' (which doesn't bother US, but the clients usually like the attention to detail)
That’s awesome to know!!! That trick for the concrete. Thank you
Nice job you've done can I ask what make cutting disc your using as I want to get one as I've got to cut into old brick to sink the wires in also what did you use to put over the wires is that better than tube?
Thanks mark
Thumbs up just for the intro 👌😂
Impressive work ethic.
Great job
Enjoy your holiday, It sure is well deserved!! Keep up the good work :D
Tapcon screws work excellent. Drill a hole and they screw directly into the concrete, and you don’t have to use the read shield
Good job, it always pays off.
You should invest in a Makita wall chase and the dust extractor best thing we have bought for a while. You can chase with 0 dust. Not cheap but definitely good.
I always work to size of tile 900 worktop plus size of tiles and either put bottom or middle of box on grout line
Hah! This video came up in my list right after a BigClive video. I love it.
Nice video showing the downside of working for yourself and the messy side of the trade. Interested to know how you mark out the levels for points beforehand? I was taught to take 2 points, preferably corners and then use a chalk line to mark across the wall to get a level line to use for backboxes that is even around the room, its rare you can simply measure up as the floor will always be uneven somewhere, with laser levels its easier now but you still need a accurate base point to measure from.
Nagy i like you’re videos definitely different than in the states where we go by the National Electrical Code
Get masonry nails for your capping, or the pins of cable clips are really good as well
My opinion Dual boxes bit dated. Why not use a multi gang grid switch system with 20a switches and fuse carriers if necessary much neater than having a bunch of fused spurs closely packed together over worktop.
132 Buckleup1000- I suppose it depends on the number of appliances you want to isolate, 3 appliances or more, yes by all means a grid plate would be a better option but if it was just one or two, I'd probably go with a single or dual box.
I think it's a bit down to personal preference I have never liked the look of spurs bunched together which in small kitchens is usually want happens.
I tend to find with private clients they won't countenance it any way only want to see sockets and at push Hob/oven isolator have to find somewhere to hide the rest.
Council, small commercial don't care bang in as many switches as you like!
What do you need those spurs anyway. Its not requirement but big oven or hob only above 3.5kW
Try 20 or 25mm oval conduit with a wall chaser and vacuum extraction.... Neater, quicker, easier, less dust.... Only ever used capping with dot n dab not with chased finished existing walls.
Keep up the good work
Forget oval, use round conduit then you can use adapters straight in to the knock out on the metal box. Much neater and easy to rewire or even wire once plastered over.
Why use capping with dot and dab , pointless
Craig can you get 2 x 2.5mm t&e cables in one 25mm oval conduit full 2m length.
Round conduit means deeper channels. Plus metal back boxes don't really line up...
@@ChrisTheSparky easy
Hi, may I ask why you don't use a wall chaser? Wouldn't it be quicker for you?
Thomas what’s the capping all about in n. Ireland all switches, plugs etc are piped from ceiling joists continuous into boxes and piped between boxes not Rubber grommets there only used for stud walls?
Is that a English thing?
Old House kitchen
Rewiring
Has to be a vertical wiring
For sockets?
The way I do it capping no screws or nails just bond them in one u done the chase no messing round injuries to u self
+1 for the big Clive reference (and you make awesome videos)
Hammer-in plugs work well, for dense bricks. You still have to drill the hole, but they still save a few steps.
Love the nod to big Clive
I do 1100 mm from Finish floor level to bottom of socket, high level cupboard are usually the same height,but the problem with only having 150mm from worktop is sometimes they decide to put 100mm upstand and the plug cord snags.
What was the wiring that you ran down from the two boxes on the left there? I wanna see for the fridge but you already stated that was being fed from the right side of the room?
I guess I’m just a little confused on the routing of the cables
quick way too cap in a dense wall or clip a cable, works either way is to "borrow" some longer wider nails from the carpenters and drill your red plugs in and bang a nail into the plug it works very well! not much quicker but tends to be easier.
You can get "pin plugs" for this exact purpose, cable clip nails go straight into it.
More videos please. From Arizona
Love this channel
Great one Tom!
@Thomas Nagy why is there a height restriction on cupboards or counter tops??
your quite a tall guy so to me makes more sense to make the top of any countertop a more comfortable height.
Metabo wall chaser-real quality bit of kit -matched with a Bosch Gas extractor = no dust.
also, get all your boxes cut out, and stick em in level and true with one coat plaster. The next day you can plug and screw them, super simple.
Finally got a new light yay
I'd recommend pan head Dewalt Walldogs for fixing boxes; ø4.0mm drill bit for soft, ø5.0mm for hard brick then wind 'em in. No need for a Rawl plug either so one less operation to perform and no need to keep removing things to drill holes
I'm just getting to grips with those for fixing D line fire clips in mini trunking since we'll have to come 2019. They are pricey and it means having a phillips and a pozi handy though
Thomas What about providing a fused spur for emergency switching above the surface area for the dishwasher?. This has to be provided for emergency isolation.
I don’t think I showed it in the vid but it’s on the back wall. You’ll see it in the next vid👍
Hi Tom great video, Can I ask how do you connect four consecutive FCU’s like you have? My understanding is you can only wire one FCU per socket not spur off a spur. Keep up the great work very informative 👍
If the ring is part of the FCU’s then it does not matter; they are just another item within the ring circuit.
If you had a double socket outlet and then spurred off to a fcu and then another and another; you can’t do that as you could theoretically overload the first piece of cable going between the socket and first fcu. (Assuming it’s a 32a mcb)
If the mcb was a 16 or 20a it wouldn’t matter though as your primary protection would be that fuse.
Not sure if I have described that very well?!
thomas nagy yes great I understand now thanks for cleaRing that up 😂
Can I ask why you bother with capping when it will have an RCD? Is that plastic capping or is it metallic?
just personal choice really. you can just clip direct and skim over now which lots of peeps do, but it just boils down to preference; i like to put capping on.
thomas nagy thanks for the response mate, I'm an electrician up in Scotland and wondered if it was still a requirement down your way! Keep up the good work man.
You can't not like the legend that is Big Clive.
Yeah... this seems like my kind of channel.
Looking forward learning all about the odd little differences between a UK sparky's work and the stuff that I do here in Australia. (Also subbed for the Big Clive shoutout). :)
Are the fused spurs a separate ring/ radial circuit ? What was the configuration you used as you have different size cables
Fused spurs will just be off the ring circuit. The lower gauge wiring is used after the fuse.
Why do you put those plastic covers on top of the wires? And aren't you worry about strength of structure after so much sawing, cutting and drilling? What do you use to cover those wires? Plaster? Cement?
He's only cut into plaster, and that doesn't affect the strength of the wall as the integrity will be in the brick/block on that type of structure. Even if the brick is cut into a little, it will have no material affect on the strength of the wall as it is in compression and typically only, perhaps, 20% of the depth of the brick will be lost in only a small part of the wall.
As for what it will be covered with, in this case it will be plaster.
Mate such good videos many many thanks.
well done glad i did not apply as old men do not have same movement as 16 year olds but keep up the good work i enjoy all your video`s have a nice break after 22:00 you deserve every minute of it.