Great to see a guy who cares about his work. I'm a joiner in Scotland and all the sparks I've worked with over the last 10 years are a bunch of fucking cowboys. I take pride in my work and I care about the customers property....Keep up the good work buddy great to watch.
Nice to see someone taking a pride in their workmanship especially lining up light switches and sockets...until the customer changes their mind🙄 When taking the feed for an external socket off of an existing ring, a good tip is to install a DP isolator (where possible) in case there's a fault with the socket so you can turn it off and not lose all of the sockets in the house👍
I've been putting kitchen appliance ring mains in cupboards for about 15years, basically several switch fused spurs neatly in cupboards. As long as they are easily accessible for use and maintenance (maintenance so that when they are switched off they can't be accidentally turned on by someone else whilst working on it), are NOT emergency switches, are labelled, then you should be good to go, main reason for this is vanity and balanced load on the ring circuit (ie. You won't get one leg heating up more than the other as the spurs are so close to each other). Nice work !
I have come across this Lot with modern kitchen designs especially when its a wall full of appliances and pull out pan draw unit few options to locate switches. Kitchen designer usually want all the switches above oven which I don't agree with due to the fact that if the oven goes on fire you're not going to be able to access the switch to isolate it. No problem with mounting them in cupboards otherwise as long as the are on the side of the unit towards the front and cable installed in a bit of trunking from the rear not stuffed at the back.Nice video and good workmanship. Thanks for sharing
I would happily stick isolation switches in cupboards as long as an item description is labelled and stuck on the switch. The house owner will know we're they are,and any body looking for it will read the label.
Try telling the man who's spending 50 grand on kitchen he has to have horrible 13 amp switch fuse spurs above there granite worktop there fine in the cabinets as Long as there easy accessible not a problem in my humble opinion you council sparks will probably disagree😁
What I found with all Sparks doing videos on UA-cam, they never show you pulling cable's through walls or how they do it. That's probably one of the most important skills in the trade, but for some reason Sparks online rarely show how they do it. (Hint, hint)
Jacob Adams There’s many ways. If there’s a complete void then you could just fish the cable down. If it’s full of insulation (most likely) then you can use a scrap bit of cable as a draw wire of buy rods which are solid and easy to fish down. Then you just tape the cables onto the rods and pull it through. If there’s wooden beams or if it’s dot and dab, you just cut holes to stitch the cable where you need to get it
The only isolator that would need to be on show or at very least fixed to carcass just inside cupboard door and easily accessible would IMO, be for the hob which could potentially also be an emergency control in the event of a chip pan fire.
Couldn’t agree more with the laser level, I’ve got a Dewalt Laser, not too expensive either. Very nice and neat job, love it. Just a point, I always leave my earth conductors longer than the L & N conductors, not sure if it’s regs but I recall reading something along the lines of "all live wires must be subject to tension before any protective conductors" Not even sure if that’s still a thing but I do it anyway. Not having a pop, just mentioning it. Nice work, man. Sub’d.
Great video. You can have electrical fittings 100mm away from a hob now though (rather than 300mm) as per Electricians Guide to the Building Regs. Might help on smaller kitchens 😊
Hi Luke... Yes Will is right, the minimum recommended distance an accessory should be from the heat zone is 100mm but this is only a recommendation, as long as it's not mounted directly above the heat zone, you get away with mounting it closer but I wouldn't advise it.
Regulation 537.2.2.2 The position of the contacts or other means of isolation shall either be externally visible or clearly and reliably indicated. An indication of the isolation position shall occur only when the specified isolation has been obtained in each pole. Regulating 537.3.2.4 A device for switching off for mechanical maintenance shall be placed and durably marked so as to be readily identifiable and convenient for its intended use. As we know the regs can be interpreted and is not set in stone.... Can an argument be made that the switches are labeled and in a convenient location.... Yes in my opinion... Your thoughts?
Craig Hawkins you sir are amazing. Thanking you! So in brief : as long as it is situated within a suitable location and labelled correctly then it is satisfactory? I have also seen this issue arrise for fan isolators. Brilliant stuff that man!
My Trusted Electrician in Carshalton... Thats what the regs say.... I'd say the location of switches are fine in cupboards in most circumstances but it would depend on the situation, location and external influences. I have in the past installed grid switches for larger high end kitchens where the client wanted nothing on show, sockets popped up from the worktop and the isolators were situated in a cupboard with labels. What's wrong with having a fan isolator next to the fan (in line fan) for mechanical and electrical maintenance. There is no need for itnto go above the door or switch location other than that issue the conventional installation method. Good videos by the way... Keep up their good work; neat, tidy any you take pride in you're workmanship well done.
With you both on this, I don't see any issues fitting labelled isolators within cupboards providing they are "local" to the appliance (have within 3m in my head but no regulation number) and are also fixed to the solid part of cabinet/cupboard as opposed to the flimsy bit of wood normally at the back. Enjoy your videos mate, nice to see others also taking pride in their work!
Jamie Doble I think the 3m rule you have may have something to do with the old general practice of an electrical hob away from a sink. There's no fixed number on the distance as long as it is suitable and convenient.... My interpretation of these words may differ from others depending on the situation.... Having a fixed location in a kitchen solely for isolators is not different to having a grid switch for emergency lights next to a distribution board (much less convenient and time consuming however if you have a number of floors and areas).
Bit of a grey area on this one, by placing an isolator in a cupboard (generally used for storage) there is a high likelihood that the isolator will no longer by readily accessible as the homeowner will inevitably be storing canned food or cooking utensils in it.
Pukka job mate. If I was still contracting, one of those multi tools would definitely be on my shopping list. Mind you if I put my mind to it, I bet I could still find an excuse to get one 😀
In Ireland our kitchen wiring regulations are a pain. We must have a double pole Isolator controlling a single socket for each fixed appliance above and below counter level. That is Cooker hood, fridge, wash machine, dryer. Infact now I think we are required to have a separate cct feeding isolator for the freezer unit. Takes up so much kitchen wall space and makes kitchen a hell of alot of work. Our kitchens are done on radial circuits usually 2!!
Thanks mate. I love hearing other approaches to things. Yeh and there's rarely enough wall or cupboard space as it is without having to chuck insulators everywhere.
@@AndrewStrydomBRP yes that's usually what I do but the problem is a position on the kitchen wall for the grid switch, usually tricky there not being alot of space in your average kitchen.
Neat work Fella. Subbed and belled buddy. Good first fix video, very informative, keep um coming fella. Good point on the isolators, I see them in cupboards all the time. But try to put in view if possible like you do.
I have pre-fitted and tiled around, a cooker switch c/w 13a socket, plus cabling ready for a sparky friend to connect, a schoolboy error, I mis-measured at 270mm!!! Am I in trouble or will I get away with it If I am nice to him?🤔
300mm socket from hob??? Love the vids but you’ll find life much easier when u find out 300mm is accessory from sink and it’s 100mm from the hob, check out The Electricians Guide to the Building Regs...good read 👍🏻👍🏻
@@danwahh there is no specific requirement in regs or bs7671, but 300mm is considered a safe distance for all circumstances, if this wasn’t the case I wouldn’t have had to move 300 sockets in student accommodation kitchens recently that were placed too close by a previous company doing first fix
If your client wants the isolators out of site there is nothing stopping you doing what obviously the norm is to have your isolators above kitchen top height and directly above the sockets or other sources that they are isolators but some clients want as least amount of electrical items on show as possible and as the client has asked for that to happen when it's obvious they know where the isolators are going to be installed and if they sell the house they can inform the new owners,so in short if someone tells you that they must be visible are talking bullshit,mind my French,this is from a recently retired JIB GOLD card approved industrial electrician of 50 years,so keep up the good work,by the way I am a ringmain fan and for most of my career I never wired a final ring circuit with cable less than 4mm and that's working from specifications and set out drawing calculated by electrical architects.
If your referring to the DP isolators for the double ovens, as far as im aware they just have to be accessible and within 1.5m of appliance, so in a cupboard is fine, if theres a problem chances are the rcd will go off and the cust will never need to switch it off
Great vid, I’ve still got loads to watch. But I didn’t think you could use another point to create a zone. (Light switch for the cables for outside socket) unless it comes direct through that accessory. If the light switch were to be moved at a later date your existing cables would be then be out of zone & no-one would know.
Nice job! I’ve got dot and dab in my bathroom where I’m about to fix an electric shower. What is that rod your using? That would save me a lot of time from cutting and money from filler!
Cool video dude. I try to avoid fixed cabling in cabinetry in case of future need/desire to shift cabinet for any reason. However, that said it is convenient to be able to run isolators to one area for appliances etc. Most of the time it comes down to what the customer wants. The isolators are supposed to be clearly marked but people get a bit miffed at me when I put stickers over their nice shiny new switches etc. :) Just out of curiosity, what zones are you referring to in kitchen regarding the sockets and switches? (Including outside socket) I see no water source near where you moved 2 gangs near light switch and oven/hob was over the other side.
My kitchen has some isolaters (from Toolstation I think) with the appliance name printed onto the switch by the manufacturer. They don't look too unsightly
@@MyTrustedElectrician when I look at you it's like looking in a mirror! I'm 58. Musta had a cushti life! Cliff Richard comes to mind. Maybe not! Love your videos mate. 5 stars all the way.
isolators... Meanwhile here in France that is literally non existent anymore hahah only rarely for industrial jobs. Very old houses have them sometimes for the water heaters/boilers but those get removed and it's all set up differently in the fuse board nowadays. I find it so interesting to see all those different methods and regulations each country has.. Makes me wonder who's doing it properly and who's wasting his/her time
@@MyTrustedElectrician For my part we run individual circuits depending on what's on it, boiler has it's own circuit, induction cooking plates have their own circuit with a 32A breaker and MUST be run with 6 gauge wire, electric heaters we usually run a circuit per on a 20A breaker, at most 2 on the same circuit. Sockets however regulation says we can have up to 8 per circuit with a 16A and lights don't really matter as long as you're not putting on very high watt lamps or whatsoever
Niceic man said ok to have isolators in the cupboard. Just put in the comments section about customer not wanting loads of isolators visible. There used to be a part p reg when it came out saying to fix to fabric of the building and not kitchen units. Since then part p has taken it out. Great video i use multi the same way
James my NICEIC man said something similar, did they take it out and at the same time brought out the reg on balanced loads which goes hand in hand with installing kitchen ring appliance spurs in cupboards so the loads will be balanced?
Cosmic Fatty stick to your DIY pal and leave the electrical work to us qualified electricians. Then again, us being called out to rectify your faults keeps us in a job I suppose ha.
The isolator for a fixed appliance has to be within a certain distance (I wouldn’t be able to tell you right now) basically if you put it 300mm away you’re following the guideline of minimum distance from a Hob/Oven. Putting an isolator in a cupboard down low or up high and behind the clients food is bad practice, accessories should also be fixed to the FABRIC OF THE BUILDING. Personally you can’t go wrong with a grid switch, spur off the ring to single sockets for you dishwasher/washing machine etc, and if you have fixed appliances (possibly an extractor or water heater) they also make 13 amp fuse modules that fit into the same grid plate.
Still shit looking at switches you'll never use! Isolators in the nearest cupboard labelled up always works fine. Plus a house isn't a house without a kitchen, so that makes the kitchen part of the fabric of the house.
I'm pretty sure you just said the outdoor socket was at the furthest point on the ring, longest part of the cable run maybe but there's n o such thing as a far end of a ring :) You knew that, I just couldn't help myself
When you do a kitchen rewire does that include running new Legs of the kitchen ring in to the board? Or do you use existing? I’m trying to branch out of new builds, so this side of the job is completely different. Great video. Very helpful.
RSA Electrician totally acceptable to use existing legs of an old kitchen ring main as long as the circuit meets regulations, RCD protetection etc. And as long as it tests out correctly once the work is completed.
Yes it is acceptable to use old cables but even if they pass all tests you still can’t guarantee the quality of cable run if it is damaged has joints in the length of run
I've put them in cupboards before. Reg 537.2.2.3 "A device for isolation shall be designed and/or installed so as to prevent unintentional or inadvertent closure" That to me suggests not to put them in a cupboard because if you put something in the cupboard it could turn the switch on/off. I'm not about to have a proper look through the regs though.
No problem! Just had a flick through my guide to the building regs too and it says 'Appliances built in to kitchen furniture SHOULD be connected to a socket outlet or FCU that is readily accessible when the appliance is in place and in normal use.' Key word is 'should'. If it's not in a cupboard as high as the ceiling then I don't see a problem. Another point, my guide here should 300mm from edge of drinks/draining boards and 100mm from the edge of a hob!
i'm not one to criticize how other countries do things. if you ask me the american wiring standards are far behind those of other countries. however I cannot get my head around the switches you guys have on outlets. i haven't seem them in belgium or the netherlands (where I lived for a while). what is the point? for testing? i can't imagine many people utilize them, although i could be wrong.
I never realised that having a switch on an outlet was not normal in other countries 😅 It's easier to flick a switch then unplug an appliance and leave to plug lying on the ground ready to be trod on. We always like to get into a habit of turning off appliances we're not using. Less chance of an electrical fire occurring from a faulty peice of equipment.
@@MyTrustedElectrician i thought it was more so you guys could isolate things during testing. tbh i've never been in the above situation; seems overkill. but hey, it is normal in america for outlets to have ground plug on the bottom! (in hospitals here they install outlets upside-down so the ground pin is on the top).
@@fd3871 Switched outlets are standard in Aus as well. I have never understood why the US and other countries do not have them. I've grown up with switched outlets, so it just seems so logical.
No regulation states a distance of switches or sockets from a cooker (300mm) , its down to common sense and adverse effects , recommendations in the OSG have 300mm socket from edge of drainer, and cooker switch 2m from appliance
Not a fan of switches in cupboards, or horrible dot and dab plasterboard. I like to know where my switches are, and not have the plasterboard fall off the wall after a few years
D C They're all the same mate. I have mates/electricians who help me out on larger projects. They use milwaukee. I borrow their stuff, they borrow mine. In my honest opinion neither is better. I use dewalt because I started with dewalt. All my batteries are 18v and interchangeable. This means I have an abundance of batteries onsite when one goes flat. It's all preference mate.
The NICEIC made up their own regulation with regards to positioning sockets near a hob or sink. Just be sensible. And, isolators in adjacent cupboards is perfectly ok.
Can you please tell me how you fix back boxes in a lathe and plaster wall as I have had a bit of a nightmare trying to replace surface mounted mattresses for recessed.
Can’t fix to lathe so cut lathe and plaster back to your studs so about 400mm your box is about 75mm high so cut out at least double that up and down then either put a noggin in and a metal box and plasterboard or just the plasterboard an a cavity box
If it isn't in zone or deep enough in the wall you just use RCD protection and you're good to go, no? You're becoming my favourite spark on youtube - all the others have become more focused on flashy intro's, looking like they're presenting shows instead of showing the actual work and the thought process behind it. I tune in to see work being done and the reasons why you do it that way, not to see a TV-like program with loads of waffling and flashy editing. Keep it up, love these vids.
Those covered outside sockets are great,until you plug an outside Christmas decoration with built in transformer.......... Then the chuffing lid won't close.
Madness aye. I was chatting to a pal about how great it would be if they invented a DC plug socket. We already have USB and car charging. Should make 12/24v sockets for garden lighting, laptop charging etc..
2.5 m2 cable is rated fo 24amps max. A ring protected by a 32amp RCD ! A radial would be protected by a 16amp fuse. Overload on the radial will trip the RCD .
Vadim Sirbu I try to use a dry lining box as a last resort. Personal preference. I believe a steel box is better quality, will last longer and allow a facia so sit more flush to a wall without the white rim of a dry lining box being visible.
Great to see a guy who cares about his work. I'm a joiner in Scotland and all the sparks I've worked with over the last 10 years are a bunch of fucking cowboys. I take pride in my work and I care about the customers property....Keep up the good work buddy great to watch.
Nice to see someone taking a pride in their workmanship especially lining up light switches and sockets...until the customer changes their mind🙄
When taking the feed for an external socket off of an existing ring, a good tip is to install a DP isolator (where possible) in case there's a fault with the socket so you can turn it off and not lose all of the sockets in the house👍
Great idea. Thanks
13 amp fused spur does the job just the same, run new socket off a spur
@@awm7896 13a sfcu is only single pole. in event of fault doesnt totally isolate.
@@arniewheeler4673Not always Arnie, some are double pole. Best to check the manufacturer's data before installation.
I've been putting kitchen appliance ring mains in cupboards for about 15years, basically several switch fused spurs neatly in cupboards. As long as they are easily accessible for use and maintenance (maintenance so that when they are switched off they can't be accidentally turned on by someone else whilst working on it), are NOT emergency switches, are labelled, then you should be good to go, main reason for this is vanity and balanced load on the ring circuit (ie. You won't get one leg heating up more than the other as the spurs are so close to each other).
Nice work !
Great video, your work is top quality in every way,very meticulous neat and tidy.subscribed and looking forward to see the next upcoming videos .👍
I have come across this Lot with modern kitchen designs especially when its a wall full of appliances and pull out pan draw unit few options to locate switches. Kitchen designer usually want all the switches above oven which I don't agree with due to the fact that if the oven goes on fire you're not going to be able to access the switch to isolate it. No problem with mounting them in cupboards otherwise as long as the are on the side of the unit towards the front and cable installed in a bit of trunking from the rear not stuffed at the back.Nice video and good workmanship.
Thanks for sharing
I would happily stick isolation switches in cupboards as long as an item description is labelled and stuck on the switch.
The house owner will know we're they are,and any body looking for it will read the label.
Try telling the man who's spending 50 grand on kitchen he has to have horrible 13 amp switch fuse spurs above there granite worktop there fine in the cabinets as Long as there easy accessible not a problem in my humble opinion you council sparks will probably disagree😁
What I found with all Sparks doing videos on UA-cam, they never show you pulling cable's through walls or how they do it. That's probably one of the most important skills in the trade, but for some reason Sparks online rarely show how they do it.
(Hint, hint)
Jacob Adams There’s many ways. If there’s a complete void then you could just fish the cable down. If it’s full of insulation (most likely) then you can use a scrap bit of cable as a draw wire of buy rods which are solid and easy to fish down. Then you just tape the cables onto the rods and pull it through.
If there’s wooden beams or if it’s dot and dab, you just cut holes to stitch the cable where you need to get it
I’ve always put them wherever the customer has requested providing they are easily accessible.
Used to have that same kewtech meter, awesome thing! So dramatically underrated as a tester
The only isolator that would need to be on show or at very least fixed to carcass just inside cupboard door and easily accessible would IMO, be for the hob which could potentially also be an emergency control in the event of a chip pan fire.
Good point. Never thought of that.
Great Video, Definitely pride in your work. I call my multi tool the angry bee 😂👍
Couldn’t agree more with the laser level, I’ve got a Dewalt Laser, not too expensive either.
Very nice and neat job, love it.
Just a point, I always leave my earth conductors longer than the L & N conductors, not sure if it’s regs but I recall reading something along the lines of "all live wires must be subject to tension before any protective conductors"
Not even sure if that’s still a thing but I do it anyway.
Not having a pop, just mentioning it.
Nice work, man.
Sub’d.
Nice neat work mate! I’m Enjoying the videos
Alex shepherd thanks mate
Great video. You can have electrical fittings 100mm away from a hob now though (rather than 300mm) as per Electricians Guide to the Building Regs. Might help on smaller kitchens 😊
Hi Luke... Yes Will is right, the minimum recommended distance an accessory should be from the heat zone is 100mm but this is only a recommendation, as long as it's not mounted directly above the heat zone, you get away with mounting it closer but I wouldn't advise it.
Alvin Ashman Yes still technically a guidance. We used to do them at 150mm and that seemed spot on.
Regulation 537.2.2.2
The position of the contacts or other means of isolation shall either be externally visible or clearly and reliably indicated. An indication of the isolation position shall occur only when the specified isolation has been obtained in each pole.
Regulating 537.3.2.4
A device for switching off for mechanical maintenance shall be placed and durably marked so as to be readily identifiable and convenient for its intended use.
As we know the regs can be interpreted and is not set in stone.... Can an argument be made that the switches are labeled and in a convenient location.... Yes in my opinion... Your thoughts?
Craig Hawkins you sir are amazing. Thanking you!
So in brief : as long as it is situated within a suitable location and labelled correctly then it is satisfactory? I have also seen this issue arrise for fan isolators.
Brilliant stuff that man!
My Trusted Electrician in Carshalton...
Thats what the regs say.... I'd say the location of switches are fine in cupboards in most circumstances but it would depend on the situation, location and external influences.
I have in the past installed grid switches for larger high end kitchens where the client wanted nothing on show, sockets popped up from the worktop and the isolators were situated in a cupboard with labels.
What's wrong with having a fan isolator next to the fan (in line fan) for mechanical and electrical maintenance. There is no need for itnto go above the door or switch location other than that issue the conventional installation method.
Good videos by the way... Keep up their good work; neat, tidy any you take pride in you're workmanship well done.
With you both on this, I don't see any issues fitting labelled isolators within cupboards providing they are "local" to the appliance (have within 3m in my head but no regulation number) and are also fixed to the solid part of cabinet/cupboard as opposed to the flimsy bit of wood normally at the back.
Enjoy your videos mate, nice to see others also taking pride in their work!
Jamie Doble I think the 3m rule you have may have something to do with the old general practice of an electrical hob away from a sink.
There's no fixed number on the distance as long as it is suitable and convenient.... My interpretation of these words may differ from others depending on the situation.... Having a fixed location in a kitchen solely for isolators is not different to having a grid switch for emergency lights next to a distribution board (much less convenient and time consuming however if you have a number of floors and areas).
Bit of a grey area on this one, by placing an isolator in a cupboard (generally used for storage) there is a high likelihood that the isolator will no longer by readily accessible as the homeowner will inevitably be storing canned food or cooking utensils in it.
Pukka job mate. If I was still contracting, one of those multi tools would definitely be on my shopping list. Mind you if I put my mind to it, I bet I could still find an excuse to get one 😀
Brilliant video. Tonnes of good tips. Keep up the good work!
I say switches in cupboards are allowed as long as they are marked up. That’s how I’ve always done it
In Ireland our kitchen wiring regulations are a pain. We must have a double pole Isolator controlling a single socket for each fixed appliance above and below counter level. That is Cooker hood, fridge, wash machine, dryer. Infact now I think we are required to have a separate cct feeding isolator for the freezer unit. Takes up so much kitchen wall space and makes kitchen a hell of alot of work. Our kitchens are done on radial circuits usually 2!!
Thanks mate. I love hearing other approaches to things. Yeh and there's rarely enough wall or cupboard space as it is without having to chuck insulators everywhere.
Could you not use grid switches for this? BG makes some nice ones with labels.
@@AndrewStrydomBRP yes that's usually what I do but the problem is a position on the kitchen wall for the grid switch, usually tricky there not being alot of space in your average kitchen.
Neat work Fella. Subbed and belled buddy. Good first fix video, very informative, keep um coming fella. Good point on the isolators, I see them in cupboards all the time. But try to put in view if possible like you do.
Plymouth Sparky thanks mate. What vido editing software do you use? I really like your intros and music!
Don't bother with a gopro bro! Get a point and shoot, Sony G7X or something. Banging quality! Keep up the cracking work bud
Really interesting and thanks for taking us with you.
Like the Multitool giving the back boxes a No1 Harircut.
Absolutely brilliant job sir.spot on.thourallghy enjoyed thanku kindly.steve.
I have pre-fitted and tiled around, a cooker switch c/w 13a socket, plus cabling ready for a sparky friend to connect, a schoolboy error, I mis-measured at 270mm!!! Am I in trouble or will I get away with it If I am nice to him?🤔
300mm socket from hob??? Love the vids but you’ll find life much easier when u find out 300mm is accessory from sink and it’s 100mm from the hob, check out The Electricians Guide to the Building Regs...good read 👍🏻👍🏻
It is recommended 300mm from both actually
Hmmm just wondering where you’ve got that information from??
@@danwahh there is no specific requirement in regs or bs7671, but 300mm is considered a safe distance for all circumstances, if this wasn’t the case I wouldn’t have had to move 300 sockets in student accommodation kitchens recently that were placed too close by a previous company doing first fix
If your client wants the isolators out of site there is nothing stopping you doing what obviously the norm is to have your isolators above kitchen top height and directly above the sockets or other sources that they are isolators but some clients want as least amount of electrical items on show as possible and as the client has asked for that to happen when it's obvious they know where the isolators are going to be installed and if they sell the house they can inform the new owners,so in short if someone tells you that they must be visible are talking bullshit,mind my French,this is from a recently retired JIB GOLD card approved industrial electrician of 50 years,so keep up the good work,by the way I am a ringmain fan and for most of my career I never wired a final ring circuit with cable less than 4mm and that's working from specifications and set out drawing calculated by electrical architects.
Isolators in cupboards is okay, as long as they have the cupboards back board removed and they do not impinge on final shelf positions
If your referring to the DP isolators for the double ovens, as far as im aware they just have to be accessible and within 1.5m of appliance, so in a cupboard is fine, if theres a problem chances are the rcd will go off and the cust will never need to switch it off
I had completed my kitchen wiring and my isolation switches are clear visible
❤what amperage you use for the ring circuit in the kitchen and does the cooker have it's own breaker.😊
What appliances would must you use isolators for please ?
Great vid, I’ve still got loads to watch. But I didn’t think you could use another point to create a zone. (Light switch for the cables for outside socket) unless it comes direct through that accessory. If the light switch were to be moved at a later date your existing cables would be then be out of zone & no-one would know.
Good point sir.
Nice job! I’ve got dot and dab in my bathroom where I’m about to fix an electric shower. What is that rod your using? That would save me a lot of time from cutting and money from filler!
Cool video dude. I try to avoid fixed cabling in cabinetry in case of future need/desire to shift cabinet for any reason. However, that said it is convenient to be able to run isolators to one area for appliances etc. Most of the time it comes down to what the customer wants. The isolators are supposed to be clearly marked but people get a bit miffed at me when I put stickers over their nice shiny new switches etc. :) Just out of curiosity, what zones are you referring to in kitchen regarding the sockets and switches? (Including outside socket) I see no water source near where you moved 2 gangs near light switch and oven/hob was over the other side.
My kitchen has some isolaters (from Toolstation I think) with the appliance name printed onto the switch by the manufacturer. They don't look too unsightly
Good to see "old school standards" in someone so young.
GrumpyGrampa young 😅 you seen my hairline 😅
@@MyTrustedElectrician I'd say you're in your 50's. You don't have the mentality of anyone younger...
@@AlanLumsden I'm 33 😅
Lifes been hard what can I say 😅😅😅
@@MyTrustedElectrician when I look at you it's like looking in a mirror! I'm 58. Musta had a cushti life! Cliff Richard comes to mind. Maybe not! Love your videos mate. 5 stars all the way.
I'm working on a massive development at the moment and all the flats have a bank of 4 DP grid switches in the cupboard so it must be to regs.
isolators... Meanwhile here in France that is literally non existent anymore hahah only rarely for industrial jobs. Very old houses have them sometimes for the water heaters/boilers but those get removed and it's all set up differently in the fuse board nowadays. I find it so interesting to see all those different methods and regulations each country has.. Makes me wonder who's doing it properly and who's wasting his/her time
Me too
Very interesting. I notice in some countries they just dedicate circuits to everything rather then branching off of a nearby circuit.
@@MyTrustedElectrician For my part we run individual circuits depending on what's on it, boiler has it's own circuit, induction cooking plates have their own circuit with a 32A breaker and MUST be run with 6 gauge wire, electric heaters we usually run a circuit per on a 20A breaker, at most 2 on the same circuit. Sockets however regulation says we can have up to 8 per circuit with a 16A and lights don't really matter as long as you're not putting on very high watt lamps or whatsoever
how did you get the cables up to the hood etc did you rod them through? good video btw
Great job
Excellent as always. Must say, I don’t know what I’d do without my DeWalt multi-tool..! 😁👍
I don't have one, what should I do?
Superior Being Have you thought about being a plumber? 😜
@@evguysltdianlawrie2274 I was always told (by electrician friend) that plumbers were known as electricians without brains lol
Why did he not use trunking on the switches he used to fish the wire down?
nice trick with the mcb lockout
HELLO WHAT IS THE NAME OF YOUR CAMERA
Isolators are for maintenance, not emergencies. No need for them to be readily accessable.
nice all round job chap
Niceic man said ok to have isolators in the cupboard. Just put in the comments section about customer not wanting loads of isolators visible. There used to be a part p reg when it came out saying to fix to fabric of the building and not kitchen units. Since then part p has taken it out. Great video i use multi the same way
James my NICEIC man said something similar, did they take it out and at the same time brought out the reg on balanced loads which goes hand in hand with installing kitchen ring appliance spurs in cupboards so the loads will be balanced?
Nice video
Nice mario touches to it too haha
Great stuff
Great personality 👍🏽
NEVER 'excuse the beard'! Be proud; go big!!
Nice vid Bud. 👍🏼
Kevin McNicholas 😅😅😅
Brilliant video. Learnt so much. Thank you from a professional'ish DIYer
Cosmic Fatty stick to your DIY pal and leave the electrical work to us qualified electricians. Then again, us being called out to rectify your faults keeps us in a job I suppose ha.
Professional Diy’er = Bollocks
The isolator for a fixed appliance has to be within a certain distance (I wouldn’t be able to tell you right now) basically if you put it 300mm away you’re following the guideline of minimum distance from a Hob/Oven. Putting an isolator in a cupboard down low or up high and behind the clients food is bad practice, accessories should also be fixed to the FABRIC OF THE BUILDING.
Personally you can’t go wrong with a grid switch, spur off the ring to single sockets for you dishwasher/washing machine etc, and if you have fixed appliances (possibly an extractor or water heater) they also make 13 amp fuse modules that fit into the same grid plate.
Still shit looking at switches you'll never use!
Isolators in the nearest cupboard labelled up always works fine. Plus a house isn't a house without a kitchen, so that makes the kitchen part of the fabric of the house.
I'm pretty sure you just said the outdoor socket was at the furthest point on the ring, longest part of the cable run maybe but there's n o such thing as a far end of a ring :) You knew that, I just couldn't help myself
Power distribution throughout a ring is not equal. Hence you can have unbalanced rings
When you do a kitchen rewire does that include running new Legs of the kitchen ring in to the board? Or do you use existing? I’m trying to branch out of new builds, so this side of the job is completely different. Great video. Very helpful.
RSA Electrician totally acceptable to use existing legs of an old kitchen ring main as long as the circuit meets regulations, RCD protetection etc. And as long as it tests out correctly once the work is completed.
Yes it is acceptable to use old cables but even if they pass all tests you still can’t guarantee the quality of cable run if it is damaged has joints in the length of run
How do you ensure you avoid the joists in the walls before you start cutting in ?
I've put them in cupboards before.
Reg 537.2.2.3 "A device for isolation shall be designed and/or installed so as to prevent unintentional or inadvertent closure"
That to me suggests not to put them in a cupboard because if you put something in the cupboard it could turn the switch on/off.
I'm not about to have a proper look through the regs though.
Haydon Turner-White thanks buddy.
No problem! Just had a flick through my guide to the building regs too and it says 'Appliances built in to kitchen furniture SHOULD be connected to a socket outlet or FCU that is readily accessible when the appliance is in place and in normal use.'
Key word is 'should'. If it's not in a cupboard as high as the ceiling then I don't see a problem.
Another point, my guide here should 300mm from edge of drinks/draining boards and 100mm from the edge of a hob!
Great video mate!
That hammer would have looked great in 3D lol
i'm not one to criticize how other countries do things. if you ask me the american wiring standards are far behind those of other countries. however I cannot get my head around the switches you guys have on outlets. i haven't seem them in belgium or the netherlands (where I lived for a while). what is the point? for testing? i can't imagine many people utilize them, although i could be wrong.
I never realised that having a switch on an outlet was not normal in other countries 😅
It's easier to flick a switch then unplug an appliance and leave to plug lying on the ground ready to be trod on.
We always like to get into a habit of turning off appliances we're not using. Less chance of an electrical fire occurring from a faulty peice of equipment.
@@MyTrustedElectrician i thought it was more so you guys could isolate things during testing. tbh i've never been in the above situation; seems overkill. but hey, it is normal in america for outlets to have ground plug on the bottom! (in hospitals here they install outlets upside-down so the ground pin is on the top).
@@fd3871 Switched outlets are standard in Aus as well. I have never understood why the US and other countries do not have them. I've grown up with switched outlets, so it just seems so logical.
Put a big old ugly sticker on the cupboard indicating the concealed isolation switch.
What measurement do you normally go from floor to top/bottom of a backbox on worktop sockets? Or do you change depending on the tile size?
The 'electricians guide to the building regulations' recommends no less than 150mm from the worktop to the centre of the socket.
No regulation states a distance of switches or sockets from a cooker (300mm) , its down to common sense and adverse effects , recommendations in the OSG have 300mm socket from edge of drainer, and cooker switch 2m from appliance
Fuck me hes good at getting them
boxes in I like it when he reminds us about the regs too ,👍
Not a fan of switches in cupboards, or horrible dot and dab plasterboard. I like to know where my switches are, and not have the plasterboard fall off the wall after a few years
Noticed your using Dewalt I'm stuck between Dewalt or Milwaukee, only ever used the company's Milwaukee gear
D C They're all the same mate. I have mates/electricians who help me out on larger projects. They use milwaukee. I borrow their stuff, they borrow mine. In my honest opinion neither is better.
I use dewalt because I started with dewalt. All my batteries are 18v and interchangeable. This means I have an abundance of batteries onsite when one goes flat.
It's all preference mate.
My Trusted Electrician in Carshalton Thanks for the reply mate probably going to go with Dewalt to try something different
Makita all day every day.
The NICEIC made up their own regulation with regards to positioning sockets near a hob or sink. Just be sensible. And, isolators in adjacent cupboards is perfectly ok.
Just to clarify - NICEIC don't make the regulations
That's kind of what i said.
Are these Stanley tools good then?
Can you please tell me how you fix back boxes in a lathe and plaster wall as I have had a bit of a nightmare trying to replace surface mounted mattresses for recessed.
Can’t fix to lathe so cut lathe and plaster back to your studs so about 400mm your box is about 75mm high so cut out at least double that up and down then either put a noggin in and a metal box and plasterboard or just the plasterboard an a cavity box
If it isn't in zone or deep enough in the wall you just use RCD protection and you're good to go, no?
You're becoming my favourite spark on youtube - all the others have become more focused on flashy intro's, looking like they're presenting shows instead of showing the actual work and the thought process behind it. I tune in to see work being done and the reasons why you do it that way, not to see a TV-like program with loads of waffling and flashy editing.
Keep it up, love these vids.
If its an electric hob isolater should be accessible for emergency isolation
Solid video, but please invest a little dosh in a mic, it can be tough to hear you.
Please invest in a hearing aid. You must be deaf.
Those covered outside sockets are great,until you plug an outside Christmas decoration with built in transformer.......... Then the chuffing lid won't close.
Madness aye. I was chatting to a pal about how great it would be if they invented a DC plug socket. We already have USB and car charging. Should make 12/24v sockets for garden lighting, laptop charging etc..
Please don’t hide isolators
Why did the customer make life so hard for you? Surely they knew they wanted sockets in certain locations BEFORE it was all plasterboarded!
Where are the wires!!
Ring circuit ? Why not a radial ?
2.5 m2 cable is rated fo 24amps max. A ring protected by a 32amp RCD ! A radial would be protected by a 16amp fuse. Overload on the radial will trip the RCD .
Do you have a nifty trick for you little copper mcb lock offs.
Haha none that I'm permitted to tell anyone. I imagine regs say you need a padlock 😅
Hi, I’d like to see if your free to talk. I have a new kitchen being fitting and need new electrics.
Inspiring bro!!
Oi decorators need to go at steady pace.
Nice!
Grid switches
Why you did not install drywall boxes
Vadim Sirbu I try to use a dry lining box as a last resort. Personal preference. I believe a steel box is better quality, will last longer and allow a facia so sit more flush to a wall without the white rim of a dry lining box being visible.
.I put the isolators in the cupboards luke
GRID SWITCH!
Nice
Haha 😂 I’ve got a whackaouta chisel
Dewalt man then,,....
💯👍👍
They don't use plaster to stick board its dry wall adhesive
And it's my opinion that dot and dab is complete cobblers ,modern houses are costing £400,000 yet are built with this dot and bullshit,
Isolators need to be visible mate with easy access. Currently studying NVQ LEVEL 3 FULL SCOPE ELECTRICIAN.
Isolators do not need to be visible, as long as they are easily accessible.
Fannying about