Here's a list of C2 improvements over the C1 that i've created after watching many vids: Slightly narrower bezels Nicer more premium looking design (subjectively) Better cable management (but still not great) Composite materials vastly reduce TV weight by ~40% (but 48" still uses heavier C1 design) Weighs far less than any other comparable sized TV All inputs now face sideways so wont get blocked by wall mounting (except on the 48") New EX panel on the 55" and larger screen sizes is brighter EX panel has larger subpixels (maybe less susceptible to burn-in) Slightly higher colour gamut (possibly only on EX panels) Reds and greens look more vibrant in particular (possibly only on EX panels) Overall less washed out colours at brighter HDR levels (possibly only on EX panels) New processing/SoC (with more potential improvements via firmware updates) Far more responsive menu navigation even for basic tasks like volume control Better motion handling with less stutter Far better TruMotion settings at 1 - 3 with little to no soap opera effect and far less artefacts Clearer more detailed upscaling Slightly smoother gradation especially at 4K 120Hz Better tone mapping Game Optimizer menu now has controls for contrast, black level, sharpness and colour depth Less noise/dithering on near blacks Less black crush with out-of-the-box settings or calibrated (at least for UK models) 21:9 and 32:9 ultrawide aspect ratio modes (but they both triple input latency) Picture-in-picture modes Ability to disable pop-up settings tips (but still can't disable menu ads!) 4x full 48Gbps bandwidth HDMI 2.1 ports, which means... 120Hz 12-bit colour on PC (C1 and XSX are limited to 10-bit. PS5 is limited to 8-bit) C2 negatives compared to C1: More black crush on US models (but improves over time then roughly matches C1) Less bright in SDR in Game Optimizer mode (42/48" are possibly most affected) No 120Hz Black Frame Insertion No low/medium/high settings for BFI just an on/off toggle A bug that randomly appears which causes BFI to skip a frame every 8 seconds 42" uses an older WBC panel (2020) but will use the EX panel later this year No 4-Way Zoom setting in Game Optimiser mode (useful for removing borders on retro games) 3x worse latency (~27ms) with the 4:3 aspect ratio mode (this affects retro games. The 16:9 aspect ratio has identical latency to C1, so this is *not* an issue on XO/PS4/XSX/PS5/PC/Switch) Far more expensive C1 and C2 quirks: 480p with Game Optimizer in Boost mode increases input latency to ~27ms. Again this only affects retro gaming (but not emulation). 720p with Game Optimizer in Boost mode has obvious screen tearing at the top of the screen (it can be avoided on the C1 by not using the 'PC' input label, but this doesn't work on the C2. Disabling Boost mode will fix it). BFI will add ~16ms of input latency at 60Hz (and ~8ms at 120Hz on C1). 'Energy Saving Step' and 'Motion Eye Care' settings need to be disabled otherwise brightness is _massively_ reduced. VRR can cause flicker on dark scenes (affects all OLED's but rarely happens). Feel free to add anything else below...
But if you wait that long, you are likely to see details on their next models. Then most likely wouldn’t want the C2. All this technology always changing, I’ll always have empty pockets…. lol
@@ebayer1980 You might want someone else to read that to you. I’m saying, just buy it. If you wait for the lower price in “October/November” (as you imply), then you will be hearing about the next model.
Thanks for including the reference monitor in some of the comparisons. It is extremely useful in showing areas in need of improvement on current consumer TVs. The 1000 fps footage is also great but maybe something got lost in the youtube upload because I didn't see any differences in the BFI comparisons. While slightly out of phase, they both seem to be scanning the screen at the same rate for 24, 50, and 60Hz sources.
I’ve learned more on the differences between the C2 and C1 in this 10 minute video than all the other verbiage combined on the subject. Looking forward to the comparison of the larger sizes where the C2 has the EX panel.
The LG C2 apparently has multiple times more latency in game mode in certain scenarios, such as when fed a 4:3 image or with certain non-standard resolutions like 1920x1440. This is mostly a concern for retro gaming when using scalers like the RetroTINK 5X or MiSTer. Until the issue is better understood and defined, the recommendation for retro gaming has to be the C1. This issue was first discovered by Try from My Life in Gaming.
I was going to buy one of these as my main PC display .. fortunately, I kept looking around while waiting for the C2 to hit UK retailers. Lucky for me I found used Dell UP3221Q for 1000 GBP, I'm sure I made the correct decision.
wut? People had TVs with way worse latency to play retro games years ago. Why would it be an issue now? lmao. And I think the difference wouldn't even be that big of a deal so.
@@CulturedThugPoster You did the most wrong thing in your whole life. In 29th March there was QD-OLED for 1.3k and it's not even a second hand product as you bought but first hand. It's brand new and it got 0.5 ms response time... RETURN IT NOW THAT YOU HAVE A CHANCE!!!
Im glad Vinny’s getting the attention he deserves, always doing the hard work while Vincent just reaps in the rewards. Congratulations Vinny, this is only the beginning.
I picked up a new 65” C1 for £1500 (in mid-April 2022). At that time the 65” C2 was selling for £2700. The C2 improvements look good, but they were just not worth £1200 to me! C1 remains an excellent TV. I’m very happy with it. Maybe I’ll buy a C2 when the C3 comes along. 😏
I got a 65 C2 for £1500 from very with a 20% off code that was delivered today which I thought was a great deal....then I saw the 65 C1 has also just gonr on sale for £999 at Currys. Wonder at that price if its a better option?
Same boat. I paid $700 CAD on sale for my 48" C1 where the 42" C2 would have cost me $1400 CAD. The improvements would have been nice, sure, but they certainly weren't worth double the price for a smaller screen.
I got my brand new 48 C1 for $990 USD from an 40 inch 2013 1080p 60hz TV. The value currently for any C1 or CX is amazing. I was holding out for a 42 Inch C2 but they are way too expensive. LG needs to reevaluate their market and what the average consumer can afford.
I would love a direct comparison of a new C2 vs something like a C7 from 5 years ago. Would be great to see how far along LG has come in their panel tech.
Man, I just got an Apple TV for my LG C1 - content consumption is so much better. WebOS is slow, and infested with ads. Worth it for an ad-free and much more responsive experience.
How much was the apple tv? I still get pissed how my C1 is a 65 inch ad simulator after paying almost $2k for it. All the shit ads slowing the web os for no reason, and I can't remove them. Fuck LG!
Idk if the FW of your C2 was doing this when you did you review of the LG C2…but I wanted to note a behavior that I noticed on my particular C2, on the most recent FW of 03.33.85. And I’m not exactly sure when this happened, bc I don’t remember it being this way before. Then again, I could be wrong. Okay, so what I’m talking about is DTM (dynamic tone mapping) being different in FMM, vs the Cinema/Cinema Home modes in HDR10. When DTM is active in FMM, it seems to respect the APL a lot more, while it also tries resolving more highlight detail, color, etc, than vs DTM off. Compare that to the other modes with DTM enabled, and they push the APL when it so chooses, much more, despite DTM being enabled, in both modes, and everything else settings wise, being equal…btw, this is with “AI brightness” enabled, or disabled. It doesn’t matter. This isn’t the reason for the difference, at least from what I’m seeing. I should also mention, this is on internal apps. On my CX, if you set DTM on, even in FMM, it would unnecessarily boost the APL in darker scenes, and reducing APL in bright scenes, with a high peak brightness. The typical DTM behavior us purists typically steer clear from, due to unnecessarily boosting low APL scenes, etc. So basically what I’m saying, it the DTM algorithm has definitely been tweaked in FMM, at least on my C2. Especially compared to how the CX used to behave. And I’ve never heard you make mention of this. I know you always turn DTM off, even in FMM, but I’m starting to see a benefit with it on, bc it’s more like a Panasonic implementation of their DTM, which respects creative intent a lot more, but is more so focused on retrieving good highlight detail and color/color volume. Maybe it’s like this on all LG OLEDs now? Idk 🤷♂️ Anyways, if you switch between FMM with DTM on, and either Cinema or Cinema Home, also with DTM on, the luminance change to the APL doesn’t happen immediately. It takes a few seconds for the image to dim when going into FMM, and brighten up when switching to Cinema/Home mode. It’s a slow change, but a very noticeable change. I’m still testing different conditions and APL levels. But again, FMM with DTM on, is basically equivalent to the FMM with DTM off…however there seems to be better highlight detail retrieval, and utilization of the panel’s capabilities, suffering from less white subpixel dilution, etc. I just felt this worth mentioning, on the off chance you read this long ass comment…and it makes sense to you 😅
My life in gaming did a great video on these 2 sets and the major downside for the C2 for retro gamers is a lot more input lag when switching to a 4:3 aspect ratio.
I upgraded my Samsung 1080p LCD 22” TV from about a decade ago to the LG C1 last Black Friday. Been blow away with! It was indeed a much needed upgrade as I have a PS5.
I'm still happy with my CX so the only reason I'm considering the C2 is the 42" option. I might switch from 48" to 42" next year when the prices drop below 1000€. All the other improvements are just icing on the cake.
I'm happy with my C1 with the EVO panel, hopefully the new panel tech reduces burn in and I can ride it until micro led is consumer ready! My old C7 suffered from burn in after 4 years, video game UI eventually being the culprit.
@@lmill5462 So the C1 also has an OLED EVO panel but without the heatsink it has less brightness? why does LG not specify that the C1 has an EVO panel but with less brightness? for marketing? the CX on the other hand doesn't have an EVO panel right?
@@lmill5462 I took a 55 "C1 not even 20 days ago so I should have an EVO panel? How can I look to find out? Do I have to go to some hidden menu? How do I do it?
Very well done video! I think that if I were buying a TV back in April or May when you created this comparison, I might be tempted by the “lower price“ of the C1. However, and I think you cover this in the video you link to, I just snagged a C2 on an excellent Black Friday deal, which I’m using as a replacement for my computer monitor. The C1 didn’t come in a 42 inch model as far as I know, and I was trying to decide between the 42 inch and the 48 inch model. With the black Friday prices, and all the improvements, the C2 is a much better deal this holiday season. Again, not to mention that I don’t even think you could get a C1 in a 42 inch model. Anybody buying a TV now, and deciding between the C1 and C2 models, this holiday season, should definitely seriously consider the C2.
Vincent I currently have the 48" C1 and its mainly used for PlayStation 5 activities and I absolutely love it But the C2 at 42" is very appealing as it would save me some space. Would you say in terms of performance is the C2 is better than the C1 for Ps5? Many thanks for your great videos
Korean FW 3.21.10 allowed for some advantages with CRU that I am not seeing with the last FW or the US FW. Either there were some bugs that allowed more features to come through on PC mode than normally allowed or they are now downgrading the image/compatibility intentionally after this FW ( 3.21.10) to improve the likely sales of a C2 vs a C1. I am replacing the board on my tv and taking comparison pictures to prove this. I hope to be able to clearly show this sw/fw behavior to the world.
The lack of BFI @120Hz is a big downgrade for me... I play Fortnite and Overwatch EVERYDAY on my LG C9 using BFI @120Hz, as the motion is almost clear as a CRT display... I really wanted to buy the 42' C2, but this downgrade is a massive problem for me. Please, Vincent, try to contact LG and make them correct that via a future firmware...
LG C9 has 60 Hz BFI too. Basically you can enable it at 120 Hz but the flicker is every 2 frames. Only the CX and C1 have flickering every frame in 120 Hz mode. Edit: unless you actually forced enabled 120Hz BFI on your C9 which could be done, in which case I understand your concern.
Got the 42" C2 on Thursday - Coming from an LG GN950 27" it's just a marvelous thing and with my current office space being limited the 42" was absolutely all I could manage. I'm keeping this thing until it falls apart, beautiful piece of kit. Will something better come out? Sure as with all technology, it always does but it's an insane looking piece of technology.
I’m the same, came from a cheapo LG 43” IPS. No doubt LG will keep the 42 in the lineup year on year going forward. Be interesting to see comparison with the Sony 42 later this year, there are rumours they may have introduced heat management and therefore get better brightness than the LG’s model. We’ll see
@@smdntn Really hopefully the Sony 42in is pretty good. With my space I just can't fit a 48in, but 42in is just barely small enough to fit. Also If its $100 cheaper than the LG then its a definite purchase, but with how Sony goes about things they are usually more expensive.
Do you also use this for PC / work purposes? Trying to decide between a 38" ultrawide (4K/120Hz) or this, usage will be a mix of Series X, work laptop and streaming films / sport.
@@Wilayaat 100% go for the C2 in that case. I use my C2 daily for work and it's a joy. The picture is clear and I can chop things up using powertoys to give me a 4*1080 set of windows on the main, I use a 27" monitor in addition to it for most of my in house tools. With regards to console use, I don't own any bit the Series X/PS5 does not support UW(I'm assuming it's the Alienware you're looking at). So you'd be playing with the screen centered on it/black bars etc... Movie watching is an absolute joy. I think many others have covered just how good the LG OLEDs are got watching films on quite well.
But C1 was already very similar to the CX, which was very similar to the C9, which was very similar to the C8. Can't say they're making much progress with their C line lol
There hasnt really been many upgrades since the c9 and cx lets be honest they are copy and paste with slight tweaks. They are good at marketing though so people will upgrade for small gains.
This is interesting because when I look for C1s they are suddenly back up to full retail around 2100 but the C2s in my area are discounted around 1799.
Just got the C2 48 inch this past weekend. It was a couple hundred dollars cheaper than original msrp. I did pay more overall compared to a mini led but the blacks and contrast is just beautiful as this is my first ever oled tv. I will keep this for years to come and get my moneys worth!
@@ntwalipat2 yeah definitely! I would have saved 200 waiting for black friday but overall im satisfied with the C2, beautiful tv i wish i would have went oled sooner
The real difference is about £900 (or £700 with LG cashback promotion) as a 55inch C1 can be got for £999 at AO if using their £100 off Promo, when comaparing LG 55inch C1 and C2!
Time to upgrade my oversized C1 48" to the C2 42" for optimal PC monitor use. That should last me until my next upgrade when one of the manufacturers release a curved 38" or 42" 4K QD-OLED monitor with HDMI 2.1 and DisplayPort 1.4 (or 2.0) which I will stack two of in vertical configuration.
I'm so glad I procrastinated on picking up the C2 because now I am holding out for Samsung's QD OLED. Not sure yet if I will be impatient and get the 65" or if I will hold out for a 75" version.
2 differences that weren't mentioned that might make a difference to some ppl are 1. the weight: the C2 is half the weight of the C1 2. the stand: C2 stand is half the width of the C1 stand
Because electricity costs surge in UK this month I want to share some fought. I bought plug in meter and hook up my LG OLED and PC together to see how much it cost me actually. I have gaming PC with RTX 3090 and 55'' LG OLED as a default monitor. I use it in maximum OLED Light for years now and no sign of burn in. It turns out that my rig is responsible for more than 70% of my total electricity consumption xD (I am single, two bedroom flat) What is the most shocking almost half of that comes from TV alone. That son of a gun draws over 200W. Since I spend most of time idling and browsing internet I thing I will buy laptop XD
After being satisfied for years with a 77” C9 that I bought day one for our theatre room. I decided to buy a 65” C1 for the living room yesterday. I can honestly say there isn’t a hug difference even between the C9 and C1. The C9 is calibrated and the C1 isn’t yet. Maybe I’ll be blown away once I get around to calibrating it 🤷🏼♂️. Moral of the story, don’t worry about FOMO. I saved $700 grabbing a C1 over a C2, no regrets.
I am happy with my 48” C1. It even came with an evo panel fortunately. I got it for a great price. No need to pay more for the C2 now . It might be worth it to upgrade in 3 to 5 years.
@@fabzfeast lol yeah that's what made me click on the comment... I have the c1 55 even I don't know if it has a Evo pannel, I'm pretty sure he don't know what he's talking about
@@alanclark9000 I assume he knows what he's talking about as some C1 units were manufactured with a WBE ("EVO") panel. If you don't already know, do a little research on how to access the service menu to check what type of panel, also read somewhere that the fourth letter of the model number after the first period can be a determining factor.
Thank you for the nice vide, For a color grading studio, which of the 2 would you recommend? The C1 is quite cheaper, so would it be worth to pay more for the C2.
Great video. Does the C2 handle white details better than C1? So that white details doesnt burn out? Also does both have 120 hz motion handling, refresh rate but C2 only have BFI 60 hz? Does C2 and C1 look same watching movies?
These are all marginal differences that you might see in comparison, but I don't have two LG Olde at home, so I don't notice it. I was able to get hold of a c1 really cheap, why should I pay 40% more for minimal improvements, although I can't set the bfi for my pc either. so the c2 was out of the question. I also don't understand why lg left out the bfi setting on the c2, for me it was savings or probably only available on the really big models, ergo rip-off.
Yeah he seems to be speaking of these differences as if they're significant while showing side by sides that are nearly identical. Nobody's sitting in their house watching a movie on 2 tvs side by side with a magnifying glass and data curves
Thank you for the video. I will buy a new TV in the Summer. My question is, because i want a min.75inch TV but i have only a little bit more than 2k, is there any better option than the 77 LG C1 for this price?
I'm considering buying the C1 and calibrate as a reference monitor for Colour grading. You mentioned Near black gamma tracking is slightly better on the C2. Is that such a deal breaker for the C1 or i should save a bit more and get the C2?
I’ve got a CX55 and love it! We moved to a bigger house and put it in the MBr. I bought a QN90A77 for the new living room and have been disappointed with the user experience and performance compared to the LG. Maybe I sell it and go for a C277..?
The APL delay on Transitions is unaceptable for a 2022 OLED. Considering 2022 OLED TVs aren't big enough anyway, Ill wait until 2023 for the fixes to come in and bigger screen sizes. No black frame insertion for 120hz is not a big deal to me because watch movies, but unacceptable for gamers nonetheless. 2023 it is then.
Yes good point. 2023 does seem like a significant upgrade year if the new OLED tech is in large enough screens to blow us away. Could be a damn good time to upgrade for many. Might be smart to wait till QD-OLED has another year of improvements even if 65 inches or 55 is what people are looking for. Also I wonder how price of those will change from 2022-2023.
@@Ray-dl5mp yes Ray, that's my exact thought also. It would have had one year of beta testing for QD OLED, let's be honest, this year is a beta test for the technology. As long as we get 80 plus inches in 2023. Then that's the year I will buy. I really hope that they improve this frame transition APL thing. They might even be able to firmware update the existing model to improve it? Will see. I currently have an LGC9, so I'm waiting for the almost perfect model. We're not quite there yet.
@@hdmoviesource yes and then the next update after that sounds like micro led right? So same issues with that, they need to be affordable, tech issues will need to be worked out and be offered at the right sizes. That seems like the next couple of good upgrade times. But who knows what will change. Maybe QD-OLED will be near perfect for the foreseeable future.
"if you can afford to wait" I'm still using a DLP from 2008. My patience knows no bounds. The C2 does sound like a proper replacement if this thing ever dies on me.
You can enable the 120Hz BFI in our C9, just like I did, using a software called color control. Just download it, then seaerch for the option "enable oled moiton pro (LG C9, B9, E9, W9 only)
@@MarcoL4 it has but LG doesn't mention it. You need to find out in the service menu or looking at the label where letters P or W tells you about WBE panel. If you see these letters and if you see pink tint when you watch white images far off-axis then your TV based on new panel.
Seems pretty stupid to remove 120hz BFI especially when C2 already possess the superior processor. I understand there's a big hit to brightness when using that mode in 120 but it's a good option to have. The C1 can do both and the user can choose to enable it to 120hz (with the brightness hit) or stay at 60hz (with less hit). The C2 can only do the latter.
I had a 55" CX OLED. While I loved it, I wish I had just gone with the 65" to begin with. Should I get a C1 65" while they're still available discounted before inventory stops?
im gonna guess almost the same except the new processor. the brightness difference might not be noticeable. if you want a brighter tv with almost oled black i recommend you buy Samsung q85b/90b or sony x95k instead since those tv and plenty of dimming zones
@@LeafyTheLeafBoy all the dimming zones in the world won't get you what OLED will get you... you're recommendation is literally the opposite direction of what an OLED owner wants! They don't want to lose the inky blacks and rich contrast! The TVs you mentioned are of course brighter but brighter isn't always better! As for the OP, the CX was a turning point after the C9 and some say the best some say the worse! The C1 brought back most of the balance and to be honest, the C2 isn't offering much more for 50% more value! Me personally would stick with the C1 or G1 I have the C in the living room and G in the cave alongside a projector and never will I ever go back to any display with dimming zones! If there were dimming zones for each pixel then maybe but at that point wouldn't it just be classed as OLED? Plus to get that many zones the TV would be at an incredible price beyond consumer level my guess. MLED offers promise but is still ways away from consumer level and at 4K res. QD-OLED is looking good but still has potential! Stick with the CX or get the C1 if you don't have money to blow, if you do? Get the C2! (Unless you actually want 120BFI!)
@@SSNebula bruh this isnt 2017 anymore tv with local dimming can achieved inky black now even Linus tech tips who tried the qn85a which an IPS panel is pretty much amazed and said "if someone told me this is oled i would believe them" mind you qn85a are samsung first gen miniled so im pretty confident the qn85b will have almost OLED black
@HDTVTest is there any difference other than picture size between the c2's?This is a very important question for me as I haven't purchased a TV in years and I'm about to pull the trigger.Thank you
Correction, W-OLED ended this year.. QD-OLED (read: Samsung's Display RGB OLED with Quantum Dot Color Converter) rules the market in the next few months
I'm fed up to the back teeth of companies taking a great TV and then removing something only to find out it's not their anymore .. progress seems to be obsolete these days . Only for this man very few of us would know for for your knowledge I'm grateful 🙏👍👍👍👍
I bought c1 48 recently. It was $400 CAD cheaper than 48 C2 both on sale and it even has the WBE or whatever panel seen in the service menu. C2 clearly is better TV but not 400CAD better to me. The biggest thing is the gradation/banding to me. That's the only thing that I would care. I am gonna use this a few years then just buy QDOLED when its more mature. C1 was same price as Hisense U8H 55", pretty crazy how low the prices have fallen on these. No point in LCD if the price is this close to me at least. With the inflation the newer models probably wont get as cheap as C1 did imo.
@Ugis Putnins: Too many people are watching UA-cam in SDR, or don't have a good enough HDR display to do our videos justice, so we decided to shelve UA-cam HDR production for now.
@@hdtvtest Chanel is about hi tech TV's. And another hi tech products. I still believe person who is interested to falow and watch your chanel have at least smartphone what can show HDR content. Otherwise is he is low tech product user and let's say not using decent tech products, then he have nothing to do in your chanel anyway :D
@@UGISPRO I reckon shooting in hdr means much more work has to be done, and probably more difficult to edit hdr content compared to sdr. Additional work cannot be justified if just few percent viewers own hdr display. Correct me if I'm wrong
@@diamonds972 don't think it's that. But Very annoying that not enough HDR content in UA-cam. However magoroty of all people have good enough phones to show HDR.
Well, all credit to my local dealer. I ordered from him the Panasonic TX65JZ1500 at the beginning of February. The price he quoted me matched the cheapest on-line deal I could find, plus he included delivery and installation at no extra cost. He phoned me 10 days to advise the TV had arrived in store and he could deliver and install next day. But, if I could wait a couple of weeks, until Panasonic’s 2022 range had been introduced he could pass on the £495 price drop to me, which obviously I accepted.
It’s dumb I know but I’m one of those people who constantly rant, because I can't handle this practice from manufacturers “downgrade on a newer model” I really hope they bring back BFI on 120hz in a future firmware
I would think so. I mean why else would they have a setting that does nothing? It's got to be a bug. Either it will be implemented or the option will become grayed out... Those are the only 2 possibilities that make sense
I really hope the C2 picture-and-picture is added to the C1. It’s the biggest thing I missed going from the C7 to the C1. Playing Apex Legends with my daughter using two Xbox’s on the same TV was amazing..
Can someone explain to me why there would be any judder in 24p content when viewed on a 120Hz display like these TVs? Why not just have each frame persist across 5 refresh cycles? Similarly for 50p content - both screens support VRR so why does it not set the refresh rate to 100Hz and show each frame twice?
There isn't, the "cinema screen" feature on these TVs automatically detect full screen 24hz content regardless of the configured refresh rate and adjusts automatically to remove judder. From tests I can confirm both my old C7 and new C1 both do this out of the box with default settings. The reason Vincent mentioned judder here is because the C2 lacks 120hz BFI, so engaging BFI forces the refresh rate to 60hz, disabling cinema screen and creating judder.
But the C1 with PS5 have to wait for the update to VRR? because moving the camera 360 ° does not exactly give a clear image but a little blurry or not exactly clean... 
Hi! Really enjoying your very cerebral and informative videos in advance of purchase. I’ve decided on and bought a LG CS6. The C1 with the C2 chipset. What’s your opinion on this ‘iPhone S’ filler model? Thanks!
What inputs are currently supported in PiP and PbP modes? Do you believe the source list will improve with firmware updates? I have always been interested in using one of these as a PC/Console display, and this came across as a killer feature to me. The fact that it may be a crippled feature could play a huge role in my decision making.
Vincent I have the Sony x940e 75". Do you think it will be a significant upgrade to buy the LG c1 77"? I mainly watch hdr movies and UA-cam. Thank you.
others are reporting issues with the c2's motion interpolation with more artifacting and jitter. the extra speed is very welcome along with 48gbps however the upscaling looks to be too aggressive over longer viewing sessions. thanks for showing the difference between the c1's bfi high mode and the c2's mode, its interesting that some effort was put into lowering the flicker of bfi at 60hz but eliminating 120hz entirely. i also think 120hz bfi in conjunction with some motion interpolation at 24fps is optimal for smooth motion like you said in your 2020 reviews
Hi, I thought adding BFI to 24 fps content makes it more jittery, didn't he say that in the video? Wouldn't 120hz BFI only work on 120fps content? Wouldn't most gamers use VVR instead of 120hz BFI, I dont think you can use them together.
@@Mike-tq4qd he said bfi on the c2 makes it jittery because bfi is at 60hz which causes telesinic judder. On the c1 120hz is a multiple of 24 fps (Technically it changes to 119. something hz as a multiple of 23.976). I never mentioned anything about 120hz bfi with gaming but since you mentioned it for some reason, it helps out with 60 fps gaming and with 120hz gaming it helps a bunch with old school games in the crt era.
@@StevoHDA Thank you, yes this makes sense. Given the inherent stutter of OLED i'd imagine for 24fps I'd use their Cinematic Motion feature. They say it dosnt introduce much soap opera effect so do you think this interpolates to say 30 fps then you could use BFI as a multiple of 60?
@@Mike-tq4qd im not exactly sure how it works but it works with the foundation of it inserting frames in between frames so the lowest interpolation setting would probably double 24. 60hz bfi is far too flickery
7:02 - The C2 seems like it has some pretty big color variation on the left side of the screen. Is this just the angle of the TV? Something like that would be incredibly bothersome IMO.
Only one review I seen actually points this out. I thought it might be limited to the 42" as mine has bad color shifting that is kinda tolerable on the right side, but like in timestamp, my left side is dominated by blue. It destroys any white screen. Yet nobody seems to care.
@@ASDF-kz2zp True that. But it nags the shit outta me not knowing if my panel is a bad lottery or not. Some people claim not to have it, yet I see a lot with it. I was hoping the EX panels didn't, but guess not.
@@MHIKl Yeah, I get that for sure. I returned my C1 OLED because of a single dead pixel (because it was annoying as heck to pay over a G and have flaws). The tint thing would bother me because I mostly use my TV as a computer monitor and I’d see that tint issue all day.
If i had to pick between the C1 and C2 with shared sizes like 48 inch i would probably go with the cheaper C1. But i finally went with the C2 42 as a monitor and got it for around 1250€ on sale here in germany. I never really cared about BFI and the rest is basicly perfect and way better than any monitor i owned before.
For PC monitor, not need BFI, but for ps5 gamers, this is good. So, I we see what we be Sony 43 a90k,who is the same price like lg C2 42. And then will deside.
Also der C2 ist schon besser klar, aber nicht einen Unterschied im UVP von 300€ besser. Dafür sind mir die Unterschiede einfach nicht groß genug UND mein C1 hat auch ein Evo Panel. Welchen Vorteil das auch immer haben wird.
Hello dear channel HDTVTEST! Vincent, tell me please, I will be extremely grateful for your help, I have 2 questions: 1 question) I have Sony Bravia XR Master Series OLED A90J and PlayStation 5! In your video about proper HDR calibration, the first and second number, when the sun is barely visible, press up once to make the sun disappear? Or do you need to press a certain number of times from end to top? and the third indicator, you need to have zero nits, set to the very minimum? or or press once up? Question 2) To set up HDR correctly, before calibrating it, you must first adjust the brightness, color, and so on according to your preferences ... and then do the HDR settings so that everything is correct? or you can first do the calibration and then the brightness, color and so on ... or does it matter what to do first?
Here's a list of C2 improvements over the C1 that i've created after watching many vids:
Slightly narrower bezels
Nicer more premium looking design (subjectively)
Better cable management (but still not great)
Composite materials vastly reduce TV weight by ~40% (but 48" still uses heavier C1 design)
Weighs far less than any other comparable sized TV
All inputs now face sideways so wont get blocked by wall mounting (except on the 48")
New EX panel on the 55" and larger screen sizes is brighter
EX panel has larger subpixels (maybe less susceptible to burn-in)
Slightly higher colour gamut (possibly only on EX panels)
Reds and greens look more vibrant in particular (possibly only on EX panels)
Overall less washed out colours at brighter HDR levels (possibly only on EX panels)
New processing/SoC (with more potential improvements via firmware updates)
Far more responsive menu navigation even for basic tasks like volume control
Better motion handling with less stutter
Far better TruMotion settings at 1 - 3 with little to no soap opera effect and far less artefacts
Clearer more detailed upscaling
Slightly smoother gradation especially at 4K 120Hz
Better tone mapping
Game Optimizer menu now has controls for contrast, black level, sharpness and colour depth
Less noise/dithering on near blacks
Less black crush with out-of-the-box settings or calibrated (at least for UK models)
21:9 and 32:9 ultrawide aspect ratio modes (but they both triple input latency)
Picture-in-picture modes
Ability to disable pop-up settings tips (but still can't disable menu ads!)
4x full 48Gbps bandwidth HDMI 2.1 ports, which means...
120Hz 12-bit colour on PC (C1 and XSX are limited to 10-bit. PS5 is limited to 8-bit)
C2 negatives compared to C1:
More black crush on US models (but improves over time then roughly matches C1)
Less bright in SDR in Game Optimizer mode (42/48" are possibly most affected)
No 120Hz Black Frame Insertion
No low/medium/high settings for BFI just an on/off toggle
A bug that randomly appears which causes BFI to skip a frame every 8 seconds
42" uses an older WBC panel (2020) but will use the EX panel later this year
No 4-Way Zoom setting in Game Optimiser mode (useful for removing borders on retro games)
3x worse latency (~27ms) with the 4:3 aspect ratio mode (this affects retro games. The 16:9 aspect ratio has identical latency to C1, so this is *not* an issue on XO/PS4/XSX/PS5/PC/Switch)
Far more expensive
C1 and C2 quirks:
480p with Game Optimizer in Boost mode increases input latency to ~27ms. Again this only affects retro gaming (but not emulation).
720p with Game Optimizer in Boost mode has obvious screen tearing at the top of the screen (it can be avoided on the C1 by not using the 'PC' input label, but this doesn't work on the C2. Disabling Boost mode will fix it).
BFI will add ~16ms of input latency at 60Hz (and ~8ms at 120Hz on C1).
'Energy Saving Step' and 'Motion Eye Care' settings need to be disabled otherwise brightness is _massively_ reduced.
VRR can cause flicker on dark scenes (affects all OLED's but rarely happens).
Feel free to add anything else below...
U mention the C2 does better with red and green. But the Yellow and blue is also better on the C2. it's more brighter ,just pops more
@@christianmarmol3230 I wonder what additive colours yellow could be comprised of...
*this only applies to the 42/48 inch models
@@johnspencefareal420 So then it's even better on the bigger models.. nice
You forgot the $1,000 price difference!!! Which it’s def not worth the extra.
C2 now is 50% more expensive compared to C1. C2 will be worth buying in October/November
either this or June if one can't wait for that long, though in November there will be better deals for sure.
still on C9 which still looks fantastic, I'm more interested in Samsung's QD-OLED, I'll probably be holding out for a while.
But if you wait that long, you are likely to see details on their next models. Then most likely wouldn’t want the C2. All this technology always changing, I’ll always have empty pockets…. lol
@@thatdrh who can't wait, then buy C1
@@ebayer1980 You might want someone else to read that to you. I’m saying, just buy it. If you wait for the lower price in “October/November” (as you imply), then you will be hearing about the next model.
Thanks for including the reference monitor in some of the comparisons. It is extremely useful in showing areas in need of improvement on current consumer TVs. The 1000 fps footage is also great but maybe something got lost in the youtube upload because I didn't see any differences in the BFI comparisons. While slightly out of phase, they both seem to be scanning the screen at the same rate for 24, 50, and 60Hz sources.
And it can't be easy to get an SDR video to give any representation of the differences, harder the more screens you have in shot at the same time.
I’ve learned more on the differences between the C2 and C1 in this 10 minute video than all the other verbiage combined on the subject. Looking forward to the comparison of the larger sizes where the C2 has the EX panel.
I just want to say the amount of effort you put into these videos is amazing ❤️
The LG C2 apparently has multiple times more latency in game mode in certain scenarios, such as when fed a 4:3 image or with certain non-standard resolutions like 1920x1440. This is mostly a concern for retro gaming when using scalers like the RetroTINK 5X or MiSTer. Until the issue is better understood and defined, the recommendation for retro gaming has to be the C1. This issue was first discovered by Try from My Life in Gaming.
I was going to buy one of these as my main PC display .. fortunately, I kept looking around while waiting for the C2 to hit UK retailers. Lucky for me I found used Dell UP3221Q for 1000 GBP, I'm sure I made the correct decision.
wut? People had TVs with way worse latency to play retro games years ago. Why would it be an issue now? lmao. And I think the difference wouldn't even be that big of a deal so.
@@CulturedThugPoster You did the most wrong thing in your whole life. In 29th March there was QD-OLED for 1.3k and it's not even a second hand product as you bought but first hand. It's brand new and it got 0.5 ms response time... RETURN IT NOW THAT YOU HAVE A CHANCE!!!
@@YavNe We shall see who has the last laugh .
imagine buying an OLED TV with the main priority of retro gaming, lmao
Im glad Vinny’s getting the attention he deserves, always doing the hard work while Vincent just reaps in the rewards. Congratulations Vinny, this is only the beginning.
LMAO! Nice 👍🏼
Ever since Quantum TV's career got killed, it's more eyes for this definitive channel.
@@SeraNeph sorry pal but he's still around n doing fine. If he was gone, he would've been in jail for life or dead by now
@@Derivedwhale45 I just saw from ReviewTechUSA and The Act Man. How is he still around?
@@SeraNeph Sadly Quantum is still on UA-cam.
I picked up a new 65” C1 for £1500 (in mid-April 2022). At that time the 65” C2 was selling for £2700.
The C2 improvements look good, but they were just not worth £1200 to me! C1 remains an excellent TV. I’m very happy with it. Maybe I’ll buy a C2 when the C3 comes along. 😏
I do the same thing with phones lol. Buying a 1-2 yo model is such a big cost savings for 90% of the performance 👍
I got a 65 C2 for £1500 from very with a 20% off code that was delivered today which I thought was a great deal....then I saw the 65 C1 has also just gonr on sale for £999 at Currys. Wonder at that price if its a better option?
Same boat. I paid $700 CAD on sale for my 48" C1 where the 42" C2 would have cost me $1400 CAD. The improvements would have been nice, sure, but they certainly weren't worth double the price for a smaller screen.
I got my brand new 48 C1 for $990 USD from an 40 inch 2013 1080p 60hz TV. The value currently for any C1 or CX is amazing. I was holding out for a 42 Inch C2 but they are way too expensive. LG needs to reevaluate their market and what the average consumer can afford.
I just got a C2 48" in the UK for £989. The C1 was only about £100-£200 cheaper but impossible to get hold of so took the plunge with the purchase.
@@Gattsu1986 I mean, you're getting about £100 worth of features improved over the c1 anyway so not bad
I would love a direct comparison of a new C2 vs something like a C7 from 5 years ago. Would be great to see how far along LG has come in their panel tech.
Man, I just got an Apple TV for my LG C1 - content consumption is so much better. WebOS is slow, and infested with ads. Worth it for an ad-free and much more responsive experience.
How much was the apple tv? I still get pissed how my C1 is a 65 inch ad simulator after paying almost $2k for it. All the shit ads slowing the web os for no reason, and I can't remove them. Fuck LG!
Idk if the FW of your C2 was doing this when you did you review of the LG C2…but I wanted to note a behavior that I noticed on my particular C2, on the most recent FW of 03.33.85. And I’m not exactly sure when this happened, bc I don’t remember it being this way before. Then again, I could be wrong.
Okay, so what I’m talking about is DTM (dynamic tone mapping) being different in FMM, vs the Cinema/Cinema Home modes in HDR10.
When DTM is active in FMM, it seems to respect the APL a lot more, while it also tries resolving more highlight detail, color, etc, than vs DTM off. Compare that to the other modes with DTM enabled, and they push the APL when it so chooses, much more, despite DTM being enabled, in both modes, and everything else settings wise, being equal…btw, this is with “AI brightness” enabled, or disabled. It doesn’t matter. This isn’t the reason for the difference, at least from what I’m seeing. I should also mention, this is on internal apps.
On my CX, if you set DTM on, even in FMM, it would unnecessarily boost the APL in darker scenes, and reducing APL in bright scenes, with a high peak brightness. The typical DTM behavior us purists typically steer clear from, due to unnecessarily boosting low APL scenes, etc.
So basically what I’m saying, it the DTM algorithm has definitely been tweaked in FMM, at least on my C2. Especially compared to how the CX used to behave. And I’ve never heard you make mention of this. I know you always turn DTM off, even in FMM, but I’m starting to see a benefit with it on, bc it’s more like a Panasonic implementation of their DTM, which respects creative intent a lot more, but is more so focused on retrieving good highlight detail and color/color volume. Maybe it’s like this on all LG OLEDs now? Idk 🤷♂️
Anyways, if you switch between FMM with DTM on, and either Cinema or Cinema Home, also with DTM on, the luminance change to the APL doesn’t happen immediately. It takes a few seconds for the image to dim when going into FMM, and brighten up when switching to Cinema/Home mode. It’s a slow change, but a very noticeable change. I’m still testing different conditions and APL levels. But again, FMM with DTM on, is basically equivalent to the FMM with DTM off…however there seems to be better highlight detail retrieval, and utilization of the panel’s capabilities, suffering from less white subpixel dilution, etc.
I just felt this worth mentioning, on the off chance you read this long ass comment…and it makes sense to you 😅
My life in gaming did a great video on these 2 sets and the major downside for the C2 for retro gamers is a lot more input lag when switching to a 4:3 aspect ratio.
So the C1 is better for retro gaming?
@@treedeblue yeah it has less lag when playing 4:3 games
I’m using a Philips 1080p LCD 32” TV from 2009. I think this will be a nice upgrade.
I upgraded my Samsung 1080p LCD 22” TV from about a decade ago to the LG C1 last Black Friday. Been blow away with! It was indeed a much needed upgrade as I have a PS5.
I'm still happy with my CX so the only reason I'm considering the C2 is the 42" option. I might switch from 48" to 42" next year when the prices drop below 1000€. All the other improvements are just icing on the cake.
Honestly there hasn't really been much improvement since the CX the c1 and c2 feel like copy and paste with some UI and feature changes.
The picture quality will be close but you'll be losing size. Unless the 41 fits better
I'm happy with my C1 with the EVO panel, hopefully the new panel tech reduces burn in and I can ride it until micro led is consumer ready! My old C7 suffered from burn in after 4 years, video game UI eventually being the culprit.
But the C1 doesn't have the OLED EVO panel
@@MarcoL4 I believe the C1 that was built in late 2021 & built in 2022 uses the new EVO Panels without the heatsink.
Hi,i think Evo panel was from G1 model then in C2 and G2 2022 not in C1,right?
@@lmill5462 So the C1 also has an OLED EVO panel but without the heatsink it has less brightness? why does LG not specify that the C1 has an EVO panel but with less brightness? for marketing? the CX on the other hand doesn't have an EVO panel right?
@@lmill5462 I took a 55 "C1 not even 20 days ago so I should have an EVO panel? How can I look to find out? Do I have to go to some hidden menu? How do I do it?
Very well done video! I think that if I were buying a TV back in April or May when you created this comparison, I might be tempted by the “lower price“ of the C1. However, and I think you cover this in the video you link to, I just snagged a C2 on an excellent Black Friday deal, which I’m using as a replacement for my computer monitor.
The C1 didn’t come in a 42 inch model as far as I know, and I was trying to decide between the 42 inch and the 48 inch model. With the black Friday prices, and all the improvements, the C2 is a much better deal this holiday season. Again, not to mention that I don’t even think you could get a C1 in a 42 inch model.
Anybody buying a TV now, and deciding between the C1 and C2 models, this holiday season, should definitely seriously consider the C2.
Vincent I currently have the 48" C1 and its mainly used for PlayStation 5 activities and I absolutely love it
But the C2 at 42" is very appealing as it would save me some space.
Would you say in terms of performance is the C2 is better than the C1 for Ps5?
Many thanks for your great videos
Korean FW 3.21.10 allowed for some advantages with CRU that I am not seeing with the last FW or the US FW. Either there were some bugs that allowed more features to come through on PC mode than normally allowed or they are now downgrading the image/compatibility intentionally after this FW ( 3.21.10) to improve the likely sales of a C2 vs a C1. I am replacing the board on my tv and taking comparison pictures to prove this. I hope to be able to clearly show this sw/fw behavior to the world.
Any follow-up?
Hi Vincent, great video comparision. I wonder if the C2 handle better the vrr gamma flickering issue than the C1, or are both the same?
The lack of BFI @120Hz is a big downgrade for me... I play Fortnite and Overwatch EVERYDAY on my LG C9 using BFI @120Hz, as the motion is almost clear as a CRT display... I really wanted to buy the 42' C2, but this downgrade is a massive problem for me. Please, Vincent, try to contact LG and make them correct that via a future firmware...
The C9 doesn't support 'OLED motion Pro' (BFI) does it? Not officially.
LG C9 has 60 Hz BFI too.
Basically you can enable it at 120 Hz but the flicker is every 2 frames.
Only the CX and C1 have flickering every frame in 120 Hz mode.
Edit: unless you actually forced enabled 120Hz BFI on your C9 which could be done, in which case I understand your concern.
@@maperez12 How do you force enable 120hz on a C9? I have one and don’t know this was a thing.
@@maperez12 I enabled using the software color control.
@@GAmbrose I enabled it using a software called color control.
Got the 42" C2 on Thursday - Coming from an LG GN950 27" it's just a marvelous thing and with my current office space being limited the 42" was absolutely all I could manage. I'm keeping this thing until it falls apart, beautiful piece of kit. Will something better come out? Sure as with all technology, it always does but it's an insane looking piece of technology.
I’m the same, came from a cheapo LG 43” IPS. No doubt LG will keep the 42 in the lineup year on year going forward.
Be interesting to see comparison with the Sony 42 later this year, there are rumours they may have introduced heat management and therefore get better brightness than the LG’s model. We’ll see
@@smdntn Really hopefully the Sony 42in is pretty good. With my space I just can't fit a 48in, but 42in is just barely small enough to fit. Also If its $100 cheaper than the LG then its a definite purchase, but with how Sony goes about things they are usually more expensive.
I have the same 27 inch but I feel like 42 inch gonna be so big for daily monitor
Do you also use this for PC / work purposes? Trying to decide between a 38" ultrawide (4K/120Hz) or this, usage will be a mix of Series X, work laptop and streaming films / sport.
@@Wilayaat 100% go for the C2 in that case.
I use my C2 daily for work and it's a joy. The picture is clear and I can chop things up using powertoys to give me a 4*1080 set of windows on the main, I use a 27" monitor in addition to it for most of my in house tools.
With regards to console use, I don't own any bit the Series X/PS5 does not support UW(I'm assuming it's the Alienware you're looking at). So you'd be playing with the screen centered on it/black bars etc...
Movie watching is an absolute joy. I think many others have covered just how good the LG OLEDs are got watching films on quite well.
But C1 was already very similar to the CX, which was very similar to the C9, which was very similar to the C8. Can't say they're making much progress with their C line lol
120 hz is good upgrade
With these improvements A90J vs G2 will be even more interesting. LG will win for gamers though. (or maybe not if you need 120hz BFI).
My C9 is still great. Love the old interface better too.
There hasnt really been many upgrades since the c9 and cx lets be honest they are copy and paste with slight tweaks. They are good at marketing though so people will upgrade for small gains.
@@malazan6004 i will upgrade from c9 to c2 because i have a buyer for my c9
Just bought a Samsung qd OLED. Can't wait for your review on that vs the G2.
This is interesting because when I look for C1s they are suddenly back up to full retail around 2100 but the C2s in my area are discounted around 1799.
Imo if you can find any C1s leftover, i think it’s the better buy at a dramatic discount.
Just got the C2 48 inch this past weekend. It was a couple hundred dollars cheaper than original msrp. I did pay more overall compared to a mini led but the blacks and contrast is just beautiful as this is my first ever oled tv. I will keep this for years to come and get my moneys worth!
Should've waited for Black Friday for a better discount, but that was still a win!
@@ntwalipat2 yeah definitely! I would have saved 200 waiting for black friday but overall im satisfied with the C2, beautiful tv i wish i would have went oled sooner
@@Bdot888
Awesome! Happy to hear! I’m thinking about upgrading to one as well!
@@ntwalipat2 you should! You will thoroughly enjoy it!
The real difference is about £900 (or £700 with LG cashback promotion) as a 55inch C1 can be got for £999 at AO if using their £100 off Promo, when comaparing LG 55inch C1 and C2!
Hi Vincent.. great videos- is there a difference between the suffix after LG C1? Eg the C14LB and C16LA?
Time to upgrade my oversized C1 48" to the C2 42" for optimal PC monitor use. That should last me until my next upgrade when one of the manufacturers release a curved 38" or 42" 4K QD-OLED monitor with HDMI 2.1 and DisplayPort 1.4 (or 2.0) which I will stack two of in vertical configuration.
Are you tempted with the qd oled?
I'm so glad I procrastinated on picking up the C2 because now I am holding out for Samsung's QD OLED. Not sure yet if I will be impatient and get the 65" or if I will hold out for a 75" version.
If you already have a 65” just wait. When larger QD OLEDs come out get one then
@@jayroman3384 right now I have a 75". It would be hard going down on size. Maybe the LG G2 might be the way to go...
2 differences that weren't mentioned that might make a difference to some ppl are
1. the weight: the C2 is half the weight of the C1
2. the stand: C2 stand is half the width of the C1 stand
Yeah that weight difference is tempting to me. Not a steady concern but relatively easier to setup (and take down whenever I move/sell it)
@@chrisjfox8715 am not sure if you have used the C1, but both it and the C2 are very very fragile, so be very careful while moving if you get either
@@hosam7609 i hear ya. They both look thin as hell up top haha
Because electricity costs surge in UK this month I want to share some fought. I bought plug in meter and hook up my LG OLED and PC together to see how much it cost me actually. I have gaming PC with RTX 3090 and 55'' LG OLED as a default monitor. I use it in maximum OLED Light for years now and no sign of burn in. It turns out that my rig is responsible for more than 70% of my total electricity consumption xD (I am single, two bedroom flat) What is the most shocking almost half of that comes from TV alone. That son of a gun draws over 200W. Since I spend most of time idling and browsing internet I thing I will buy laptop XD
Great upload keep them coming want to know if I should buy the Samsung Q95B or save £2000 and buy the QN95A?
Obviously no reason to upgrade if you already have the C1 but it's interesting to know, thanks!
After being satisfied for years with a 77” C9 that I bought day one for our theatre room. I decided to buy a 65” C1 for the living room yesterday. I can honestly say there isn’t a hug difference even between the C9 and C1. The C9 is calibrated and the C1 isn’t yet. Maybe I’ll be blown away once I get around to calibrating it 🤷🏼♂️. Moral of the story, don’t worry about FOMO. I saved $700 grabbing a C1 over a C2, no regrets.
Cant wait for you to review the Samsung S95B! Mine arrives today 🥳!!
It will beat the c2 , no worries
Just tell me which one should I buy, i watch netflix, amazon prime video, play ps5 and use that for blu ray movies
I bought the C1. Life is too short. If youre just a average consumer with untrained eye you cant really tell the difference between these two.
No-one should buy C2 65 inch at 3000 dollars anyway. You can get QD-OLED for that.
Yes how do you find cheaper? Right now c1 and c2 are same price at 48 inch .... I want c1 if I can get cheaper, but why is it still 1k...
Dude, you are subtlety hilarious. Not to mention very professional in your craft. love watching your videos. Keep it up.
Trust me, if you enjoy watching good TV, go with the C2 , I’ve got both, the C2 wins every time. 👍🏼
-The western song gives it a nice touch 😄
-(about a cable) "It is less stiff, which is good.
Never thought I would say that".
Vincent 2021 😄😄
I am happy with my 48” C1. It even came with an evo panel fortunately. I got it for a great price. No need to pay more for the C2 now . It might be worth it to upgrade in 3 to 5 years.
True, C9 user here.
@@mllepuff Same, might be hopping off the LG train for my next OLED though, depends on what Samsung brings with a refined QD OLED panel.
I got the same TV, did mine come with the EVO Panel too?
@@fabzfeast lol yeah that's what made me click on the comment... I have the c1 55 even I don't know if it has a Evo pannel, I'm pretty sure he don't know what he's talking about
@@alanclark9000 I assume he knows what he's talking about as some C1 units were manufactured with a WBE ("EVO") panel. If you don't already know, do a little research on how to access the service menu to check what type of panel, also read somewhere that the fourth letter of the model number after the first period can be a determining factor.
Thank you for the nice vide, For a color grading studio, which of the 2 would you recommend? The C1 is quite cheaper, so would it be worth to pay more for the C2.
I just ordered a C1 lastnight. Can't wait to play my games on Wednesday ✌️
I’m thinking you should’ve been got your C1 by now. How are you liking your C1? Do your games look mind-blowing?
Great video. Does the C2 handle white details better than C1? So that white details doesnt burn out? Also does both have 120 hz motion handling, refresh rate but C2 only have BFI 60 hz? Does C2 and C1 look same watching movies?
These are all marginal differences that you might see in comparison, but I don't have two LG Olde at home, so I don't notice it. I was able to get hold of a c1 really cheap, why should I pay 40% more for minimal improvements, although I can't set the bfi for my pc either. so the c2 was out of the question. I also don't understand why lg left out the bfi setting on the c2, for me it was savings or probably only available on the really big models, ergo rip-off.
Yeah he seems to be speaking of these differences as if they're significant while showing side by sides that are nearly identical. Nobody's sitting in their house watching a movie on 2 tvs side by side with a magnifying glass and data curves
Thank you for the video. I will buy a new TV in the Summer. My question is, because i want a min.75inch TV but i have only a little bit more than 2k, is there any better option than the 77 LG C1 for this price?
I'm considering buying the C1 and calibrate as a reference monitor for Colour grading. You mentioned Near black gamma tracking is slightly better on the C2. Is that such a deal breaker for the C1 or i should save a bit more and get the C2?
Either get the C1 or get the S95B (mine arrives today). C2 is pointless at that price point
@@blueversace4447 Thanks for the information.
Another good video. So what is this video highlighting/ comparing here?…. The panels of the TVs or the processors?
Lg It specifies on its website that the 42" and 48" c2 do not have the new evo ex panel 😑
Wonderful work Vincent. I appreciate this video montage !
I am very happy with my C1
How’s the brightness for u
@@anderecontent I don’t know who are but you brighten my day
@@Alltimefox huh
@@anderecontent you brighten my life
@@Alltimefox u hot
I’ve got a CX55 and love it! We moved to a bigger house and put it in the MBr. I bought a QN90A77 for the new living room and have been disappointed with the user experience and performance compared to the LG. Maybe I sell it and go for a C277..?
The APL delay on Transitions is unaceptable for a 2022 OLED. Considering 2022 OLED TVs aren't big enough anyway, Ill wait until 2023 for the fixes to come in and bigger screen sizes. No black frame insertion for 120hz is not a big deal to me because watch movies, but unacceptable for gamers nonetheless. 2023 it is then.
Yes good point. 2023 does seem like a significant upgrade year if the new OLED tech is in large enough screens to blow us away. Could be a damn good time to upgrade for many. Might be smart to wait till QD-OLED has another year of improvements even if 65 inches or 55 is what people are looking for. Also I wonder how price of those will change from 2022-2023.
@@Ray-dl5mp yes Ray, that's my exact thought also. It would have had one year of beta testing for QD OLED, let's be honest, this year is a beta test for the technology. As long as we get 80 plus inches in 2023. Then that's the year I will buy. I really hope that they improve this frame transition APL thing. They might even be able to firmware update the existing model to improve it? Will see. I currently have an LGC9, so I'm waiting for the almost perfect model. We're not quite there yet.
@@hdmoviesource yes and then the next update after that sounds like micro led right? So same issues with that, they need to be affordable, tech issues will need to be worked out and be offered at the right sizes. That seems like the next couple of good upgrade times. But who knows what will change. Maybe QD-OLED will be near perfect for the foreseeable future.
BFI is garbage regardless of TV; you loose 50% brightness
@@lort6022 yea unfortunately bfi just kills hdr impact. It’s good for sdr depending on content but who is buying a new tv for sdr?
My C1 just died after 11 months of using and I got newer C2 , hope I will have no more problems with it.
"if you can afford to wait" I'm still using a DLP from 2008. My patience knows no bounds. The C2 does sound like a proper replacement if this thing ever dies on me.
Would you be able to do a comparison between g1 and C2 ( thinking about 65/77 inches)as they are placed at similar prices now in many countries.
The main reason I was considering upgrading my C9 was 120Hz BFI support. I guess I’m sticking with it for a few years longer
My dad got the C10, it’s picture is amazing! Also the OS is a lot nicer than what’s on the C1/C2.
@@fabzfeast Agreed, I have the C10, and literally no desire to upgrade anytime soon.
You can enable the 120Hz BFI in our C9, just like I did, using a software called color control. Just download it, then seaerch for the option "enable oled moiton pro (LG C9, B9, E9, W9 only)
I was considering upgrading to the 42 c2, since my 55 c9 is a bit large to still use as a monitor, but no bfi @120hz...
When entering your pin for streaming services, you can use the numpad for a faster input.
Soo is the LGG1 still a good TV compared to the LGC2?
G series looks awesome on the wall. Best looking wallmounted TV's for sure. Only pay for a G model if you want to wallmount IMO.
Whoa, glad to know, I can safely buy a C1 without future risk of remorse now, gonna use it mostly for gaming so
The APL transition on the C2 is extremly annoying, can't unsee.
you two are so fun to watch!
Just bought cheaper C1 based on EVO panel for the next three years. I hope further TVs and OS will worth attention more than now since C9 came out.
But the C1 doesn't have the OLED EVO panel
@@MarcoL4 it has but LG doesn't mention it. You need to find out in the service menu or looking at the label where letters P or W tells you about WBE panel. If you see these letters and if you see pink tint when you watch white images far off-axis then your TV based on new panel.
@@ek2who I got yn C1 55 "not even 20 days ago, how do you go about this advanced menu?
@@MarcoL4 you need to buy service remote control. If you can't do it then look at your label.
@@ek2who I checked and my C1 has an EVO panel...so I was lucky I guess...then I don't know what changes instead...
Seems pretty stupid to remove 120hz BFI especially when C2 already possess the superior processor. I understand there's a big hit to brightness when using that mode in 120 but it's a good option to have. The C1 can do both and the user can choose to enable it to 120hz (with the brightness hit) or stay at 60hz (with less hit). The C2 can only do the latter.
that 21.9 is really cool . any chance this and the Multiview will come to the c1? or is the processor just not capable?
I had a 55" CX OLED. While I loved it, I wish I had just gone with the 65" to begin with. Should I get a C1 65" while they're still available discounted before inventory stops?
How does the c2 compare to the cx. I'm tempted to upgrade this year at some point.
im gonna guess almost the same except the new processor. the brightness difference might not be noticeable. if you want a brighter tv with almost oled black i recommend you buy Samsung q85b/90b or sony x95k instead since those tv and plenty of dimming zones
@@LeafyTheLeafBoy all the dimming zones in the world won't get you what OLED will get you... you're recommendation is literally the opposite direction of what an OLED owner wants! They don't want to lose the inky blacks and rich contrast! The TVs you mentioned are of course brighter but brighter isn't always better! As for the OP, the CX was a turning point after the C9 and some say the best some say the worse! The C1 brought back most of the balance and to be honest, the C2 isn't offering much more for 50% more value! Me personally would stick with the C1 or G1 I have the C in the living room and G in the cave alongside a projector and never will I ever go back to any display with dimming zones! If there were dimming zones for each pixel then maybe but at that point wouldn't it just be classed as OLED? Plus to get that many zones the TV would be at an incredible price beyond consumer level my guess. MLED offers promise but is still ways away from consumer level and at 4K res. QD-OLED is looking good but still has potential! Stick with the CX or get the C1 if you don't have money to blow, if you do? Get the C2! (Unless you actually want 120BFI!)
Brightness difference both in SDR and HDR is pretty big when you compare the older CX and newest C2.
I'd hold off. QD-OLED seems to be the real deal.
@@SSNebula bruh this isnt 2017 anymore tv with local dimming can achieved inky black now even Linus tech tips who tried the qn85a which an IPS panel is pretty much amazed and said "if someone told me this is oled i would believe them" mind you qn85a are samsung first gen miniled so im pretty confident the qn85b will have almost OLED black
@HDTVTest is there any difference other than picture size between the c2's?This is a very important question for me as I haven't purchased a TV in years and I'm about to pull the trigger.Thank you
Now that QD-Oled is a fact, I would not say that buying anemic and dark OLED TVs is a good investment. It's just that OLED ended this year.
Correction, W-OLED ended this year.. QD-OLED (read: Samsung's Display RGB OLED with Quantum Dot Color Converter) rules the market in the next few months
Well I personally prefer to buy the latest gen of the older tech instead of first gen of the new tech.
@@鄧聖改 The new technology is not really new. Just an advanced WOLED. Of course, everyone has the right to choose ...
The intro, brilliant!!! Thanks for this videos with differences.
Is color grading the same as color banding? And if it‘s the same, is it better in game mode on the new panels?
I'm fed up to the back teeth of companies taking a great TV and then removing something only to find out it's not their anymore .. progress seems to be obsolete these days . Only for this man very few of us would know for for your knowledge I'm grateful 🙏👍👍👍👍
I'm still super happy with my LG C1 it's a beast
😅😂
Hi vincentn. I watched your reviews of a90j last year and I got it. Did I do a mistake? Is the c2 so much better? I got the 83 inch version
for someone who doesnt own a tv
ill say both win
Lol same
I bought c1 48 recently. It was $400 CAD cheaper than 48 C2 both on sale and it even has the WBE or whatever panel seen in the service menu. C2 clearly is better TV but not 400CAD better to me. The biggest thing is the gradation/banding to me. That's the only thing that I would care. I am gonna use this a few years then just buy QDOLED when its more mature. C1 was same price as Hisense U8H 55", pretty crazy how low the prices have fallen on these. No point in LCD if the price is this close to me at least. With the inflation the newer models probably wont get as cheap as C1 did imo.
It's a big shame that you not providing amazing these HDR videos on UA-cam. That's was pleasure to watch. Is that a big hassle to put them in HDR?
@Ugis Putnins: Too many people are watching UA-cam in SDR, or don't have a good enough HDR display to do our videos justice, so we decided to shelve UA-cam HDR production for now.
@@hdtvtest Chanel is about hi tech TV's. And another hi tech products. I still believe person who is interested to falow and watch your chanel have at least smartphone what can show HDR content. Otherwise is he is low tech product user and let's say not using decent tech products, then he have nothing to do in your chanel anyway :D
@@UGISPRO I reckon shooting in hdr means much more work has to be done, and probably more difficult to edit hdr content compared to sdr. Additional work cannot be justified if just few percent viewers own hdr display. Correct me if I'm wrong
@@diamonds972 don't think it's that. But Very annoying that not enough HDR content in UA-cam. However magoroty of all people have good enough phones to show HDR.
@@UGISPRO Most people on this channel don't have the money to afford high-end stuff, they just ramble in the comments like they do haha
Well, all credit to my local dealer. I ordered from him the Panasonic TX65JZ1500 at the beginning of February. The price he quoted me matched the cheapest on-line deal I could find, plus he included delivery and installation at no extra cost. He phoned me 10 days to advise the TV had arrived in store and he could deliver and install next day. But, if I could wait a couple of weeks, until Panasonic’s 2022 range had been introduced he could pass on the £495 price drop to me, which obviously I accepted.
Is it possible for LG to bring back 120Hz BFI with a firmware update? If so, that will make the C2 worth the wait when it's on sale!
It’s dumb I know but I’m one of those people who constantly rant, because I can't handle this practice from manufacturers “downgrade on a newer model” I really hope they bring back BFI on 120hz in a future firmware
what does BFI do exactly ?
@@christianmarmol3230 It makes every other frames a black one to improve clarity in motion.
I would think so. I mean why else would they have a setting that does nothing? It's got to be a bug. Either it will be implemented or the option will become grayed out... Those are the only 2 possibilities that make sense
@@trixniisama ok interesting. So what is the benefit of taking it out though ?
I really hope the C2 picture-and-picture is added to the C1. It’s the biggest thing I missed going from the C7 to the C1.
Playing Apex Legends with my daughter using two Xbox’s on the same TV was amazing..
That sounds amazing
Can someone explain to me why there would be any judder in 24p content when viewed on a 120Hz display like these TVs? Why not just have each frame persist across 5 refresh cycles? Similarly for 50p content - both screens support VRR so why does it not set the refresh rate to 100Hz and show each frame twice?
There isn't, the "cinema screen" feature on these TVs automatically detect full screen 24hz content regardless of the configured refresh rate and adjusts automatically to remove judder. From tests I can confirm both my old C7 and new C1 both do this out of the box with default settings. The reason Vincent mentioned judder here is because the C2 lacks 120hz BFI, so engaging BFI forces the refresh rate to 60hz, disabling cinema screen and creating judder.
But the C1 with PS5 have to wait for the update to VRR? because moving the camera 360 ° does not exactly give a clear image but a little blurry or not exactly clean...

Hi! Really enjoying your very cerebral and informative videos in advance of purchase. I’ve decided on and bought a LG CS6. The C1 with the C2 chipset. What’s your opinion on this ‘iPhone S’ filler model? Thanks!
wow, thanks for the tip. so are you satisfied?
has it the BFI at 120Hz?
is it light or heavy? C2 is 40% lighter than C1 i heard.
What inputs are currently supported in PiP and PbP modes? Do you believe the source list will improve with firmware updates? I have always been interested in using one of these as a PC/Console display, and this came across as a killer feature to me. The fact that it may be a crippled feature could play a huge role in my decision making.
Update: dual HDMI is not supported
Glad Vinnie is back ; he's been my favourite character from the show.
Switching to 4:3 aspect ratio on the C2 for retro gaming adds about 16ms of input lag. Is it the same on the C1 or is this a bug?
Vincent I have the Sony x940e 75". Do you think it will be a significant upgrade to buy the LG c1 77"? I mainly watch hdr movies and UA-cam. Thank you.
others are reporting issues with the c2's motion interpolation with more artifacting and jitter. the extra speed is very welcome along with 48gbps however the upscaling looks to be too aggressive over longer viewing sessions. thanks for showing the difference between the c1's bfi high mode and the c2's mode, its interesting that some effort was put into lowering the flicker of bfi at 60hz but eliminating 120hz entirely. i also think 120hz bfi in conjunction with some motion interpolation at 24fps is optimal for smooth motion like you said in your 2020 reviews
Hi, I thought adding BFI to 24 fps content makes it more jittery, didn't he say that in the video? Wouldn't 120hz BFI only work on 120fps content? Wouldn't most gamers use VVR instead of 120hz BFI, I dont think you can use them together.
@@Mike-tq4qd he said bfi on the c2 makes it jittery because bfi is at 60hz which causes telesinic judder. On the c1 120hz is a multiple of 24 fps (Technically it changes to 119. something hz as a multiple of 23.976). I never mentioned anything about 120hz bfi with gaming but since you mentioned it for some reason, it helps out with 60 fps gaming and with 120hz gaming it helps a bunch with old school games in the crt era.
@@StevoHDA Thank you, yes this makes sense. Given the inherent stutter of OLED i'd imagine for 24fps I'd use their Cinematic Motion feature. They say it dosnt introduce much soap opera effect so do you think this interpolates to say 30 fps then you could use BFI as a multiple of 60?
@@Mike-tq4qd im not exactly sure how it works but it works with the foundation of it inserting frames in between frames so the lowest interpolation setting would probably double 24. 60hz bfi is far too flickery
Thanks, I appreciate the incite.
7:02 - The C2 seems like it has some pretty big color variation on the left side of the screen. Is this just the angle of the TV? Something like that would be incredibly bothersome IMO.
Only one review I seen actually points this out. I thought it might be limited to the 42" as mine has bad color shifting that is kinda tolerable on the right side, but like in timestamp, my left side is dominated by blue. It destroys any white screen.
Yet nobody seems to care.
@@MHIKl Yeah, that is really strange that no one seems to notice it. As long as you like the TV though and it works for you then that's what matters.
@@ASDF-kz2zp True that. But it nags the shit outta me not knowing if my panel is a bad lottery or not. Some people claim not to have it, yet I see a lot with it. I was hoping the EX panels didn't, but guess not.
@@MHIKl Yeah, I get that for sure. I returned my C1 OLED because of a single dead pixel (because it was annoying as heck to pay over a G and have flaws). The tint thing would bother me because I mostly use my TV as a computer monitor and I’d see that tint issue all day.
If i had to pick between the C1 and C2 with shared sizes like 48 inch i would probably go with the cheaper C1.
But i finally went with the C2 42 as a monitor and got it for around 1250€ on sale here in germany. I never really cared about BFI and the rest is basicly perfect and way better than any monitor i owned before.
For PC monitor, not need BFI, but for ps5 gamers, this is good.
So, I we see what we be Sony 43 a90k,who is the same price like lg C2 42.
And then will deside.
Also der C2 ist schon besser klar, aber nicht einen Unterschied im UVP von 300€ besser. Dafür sind mir die Unterschiede einfach nicht groß genug UND mein C1 hat auch ein Evo Panel. Welchen Vorteil das auch immer haben wird.
just bought a c1 two days ago
amazing picture quality
and 120 fps gaming on ps5 so much better
Just got a 77 C2, it's incredible
For PC Gaming, the removal of BFI 120hz is so severe that any improvement does not matter at all.
rookie here whats bfi?
Hello dear channel HDTVTEST! Vincent, tell me please, I will be extremely grateful for your help, I have 2 questions: 1 question) I have Sony Bravia XR Master Series OLED A90J and PlayStation 5! In your video about proper HDR calibration, the first and second number, when the sun is barely visible, press up once to make the sun disappear? Or do you need to press a certain number of times from end to top? and the third indicator, you need to have zero nits, set to the very minimum? or or press once up? Question 2) To set up HDR correctly, before calibrating it, you must first adjust the brightness, color, and so on according to your preferences ... and then do the HDR settings so that everything is correct? or you can first do the calibration and then the brightness, color and so on ... or does it matter what to do first?
Webb is faster so what it doesn't reflect the price difference. I have the c1 and its great set
These are the videos that I enjoy the most, thank you Vincent! 👍
Any plans to compare the larger models of C2 to a C1, since the smaller panels don't have the increased brightness the 55+ panels do apparently?
Is that confirmed the c2 bigger models will have more hdr difference?