If you want to see another crazy test, check the link below to see what I did to improve Ford's ignition coils 😎👌⬇️⬇️ ua-cam.com/video/hIZ7Z9P-3Qc/v-deo.html
So the Ecoboost control strategy controls boost primarily with the throttle body. Most tuners don't even mess with the WG control logic when increasing power. The BOVs open because the TIP actual is passing TIP desired and the ECU is closing the throttle.
What up fomocobro! I have a tial BOV I wonder what my rig would do I sometimes see boost spikes at 20 psi on my stock turbos! I imagine I am already out of breath with my turbos but I wounder if it will ramp in the boost sooner being unbridled 😆!! Your braver than me so for now I'm not gonna test it! Not really trying to see the piston rods yet! I'm sure its in my future just distant future hopefully!! Gearhead AO tune catless downpipes cold air intake and some other small mods! My next move is more fuel pump till then I'm not gonna chance pushing it to far!!
That seems to be the benefit of electronically controlled BOVs. They react quicker to control boost spikes. But since you have a vacuum controlled BOV, theoretically you can run a manual boost controller or an independent boost solenoid. I've looked at dual stage solenoids and the benefit seems to be that you can set the first stage at a lower boost level thats plays nicely with the factory fuel pump and then use rpm to trigger the second stage at a higher RPM when fuel pressure is stable enough to run much higher boost levels. The danger on a stock setup seems to be at lower rpms when fuel pressure isn't maxed and engine load is high. That's why I did this test because I needed to if I could use a dual stage boost solenoid. But your next mod is definitely the gatekeeper! 😎👍
I took the hose going to the wastegates and connected directly to the port on the intake pipe, thus bypassing the control solenoid. I noticed a peak gain of 3 psi and around 2 psi sustained. Doing this doesn't gain anything in power because the car is constantly trying to adjust and compensate for the changes. I do not recommend to do this to your vehicle. This was a fun test to better understand how the car operates.
I had a vacuum tee that was made by someone in the SHO community. It basically was a universal half inch straight vacuum coupler with a eighth inch brass barbed fitting in the middle. It was installed by cutting the hose to the brake booster and reconnecting it between. That way it was close to the firewall and easy to route a line to the cabin.
@@KarzKreated so I actually found a clutch spot for the SHO (atleast a 2013) or newer and it’s in the door well there are a couple tiny spots filled with insulation you can run right to the cab from under the hood without going through the firewall. But I cannot figure out where to put my T with the line and not 100% sure where you’re talking about the break booster
@@tracemiller1519 follow the breather hose from the intake tube back to the firewall. The thick hose to the left is the one I used. It connects to the intake manifold just after the throttle body.
@@KarzKreated so I’ve had my turbos whistling louder then usually and haven’t been able to hear the BOV or intake at all anymore, no noticeable power loss and the turbos sound fine they are just whistling louder then ever when before I couldn’t hardly hear them. Any ideas of what that could be?
@@tracemiller1519 not sure on that. Could have a small boost leak somewhere causing the additional noise. The rubber couplers on the turbo outlets are known to tear, crack, or split causing a boost leak. If the sound is coming from or near the turbos, that's something worth checking.
It doesn't. With factory BOVs, the car will still Target commanded boost. In theory with traditional vacuum controlled BOVs, you could "trick" the cars tune and run more boost with a manual boost controller.
@@KarzKreated that’s confusing, I thought the whole point of boost was to gain hp and if it doesn’t gain you anything then why are you trying to gain boost
The car was seeing 1 or 2 psi more but because it was controlling boost with the BOVs, boost would drop back down to its command target. In this case it does not give a usable power increase.
@@KarzKreated blow off don't control boost. They let out pressure from your charge pipe after throttle is closed. If no blow off valve thebair would go back to the turbo giving u turbo flutter. Boost controller and wastegate on the turbo is what control the boost. The internal wastegate on the turbobis what your running off.
I Understand. It's a failsafe feature to keep the target boost at its set value. I bypassed the boost controller so the wastegates were fully open. Even though it spiked higher than it would normally, the BOVs would open up to vent enough pressure to match the boost target.
@@mattsommers4111 I mean it will just wear out the compressor wheel, it won’t damage anything else. RB26 for example and also any duramax motor with compressor surge
@@StreamlineGarage Any X4 for newer Ford vehicles (7015) will work for a SHO. I originally ordered the X4 for my Cobra. But it also works with most newer Fords. You can buy any Ford specific X4 and it will work.
How did you get your SHO to rev like that in park? My buddy has one and for some reason when he revs it in park it'll only let him get up to 3500 RPM. Is there any way to remove this limiter?
I'm not sure if the tune I had raised the limiter or not. I don't think I tried to Rev it like that on the factory calibration. The tune it had was a revised Gearhead Auto Octane 93 Performance Tune.
I have an X4 tuner with an unleashed tune and neutral/park rev limiter is definitely adjustable from the tune. I have the option to modify mine before flashing a new map. (I know this is a zombie post but people still mod and rip these cars)
If you want to see another crazy test, check the link below to see what I did to improve Ford's ignition coils 😎👌⬇️⬇️
ua-cam.com/video/hIZ7Z9P-3Qc/v-deo.html
So the Ecoboost control strategy controls boost primarily with the throttle body. Most tuners don't even mess with the WG control logic when increasing power. The BOVs open because the TIP actual is passing TIP desired and the ECU is closing the throttle.
Test was successful 😎👍
My theory I was testing for was if the car would control boost even if the wastegates were controlled independently.
What up fomocobro! I have a tial BOV I wonder what my rig would do I sometimes see boost spikes at 20 psi on my stock turbos! I imagine I am already out of breath with my turbos but I wounder if it will ramp in the boost sooner being unbridled 😆!! Your braver than me so for now I'm not gonna test it! Not really trying to see the piston rods yet! I'm sure its in my future just distant future hopefully!! Gearhead AO tune catless downpipes cold air intake and some other small mods! My next move is more fuel pump till then I'm not gonna chance pushing it to far!!
That seems to be the benefit of electronically controlled BOVs. They react quicker to control boost spikes. But since you have a vacuum controlled BOV, theoretically you can run a manual boost controller or an independent boost solenoid. I've looked at dual stage solenoids and the benefit seems to be that you can set the first stage at a lower boost level thats plays nicely with the factory fuel pump and then use rpm to trigger the second stage at a higher RPM when fuel pressure is stable enough to run much higher boost levels. The danger on a stock setup seems to be at lower rpms when fuel pressure isn't maxed and engine load is high. That's why I did this test because I needed to if I could use a dual stage boost solenoid.
But your next mod is definitely the gatekeeper! 😎👍
Do a video of exactly what you did for all of us please
I’m thinking about turbo charging my 6th Gen Taurus SEL you’re an inspiration bro keep up the good work! 😎
Don't not the same 3.5 ecoboost 3.5s come with forged internals and different cams
@@adamheft1801 I am aware of how turbocharged engines are built
@@The1Monty You would be better off selling your SEL and buying a SHO.
Bro this comment is a month old why are y’all here? 😂
@@The1Monty you got so salty
What lines did you unplug? Boost numbers before and after? Did you cap off lines?
I took the hose going to the wastegates and connected directly to the port on the intake pipe, thus bypassing the control solenoid. I noticed a peak gain of 3 psi and around 2 psi sustained. Doing this doesn't gain anything in power because the car is constantly trying to adjust and compensate for the changes. I do not recommend to do this to your vehicle. This was a fun test to better understand how the car operates.
I see you're in Essex... Lol. Just picked up my SHO
😄 I was in Essex! I lived there for 29 years and recently moved to Florida.
@@KarzKreated smart man!
Will it effect inspection pass? Also will it effect anything in the car? Will this work on a police interceptor?
It's not something I recommend doing. It was just a fun experiment.
@@KarzKreated what can happen?
Overboost, engine damage.
Good O'Bama performance LOL
Where do you have your boost gauge hooked up to? Can’t find a line with vac and boost
I had a vacuum tee that was made by someone in the SHO community. It basically was a universal half inch straight vacuum coupler with a eighth inch brass barbed fitting in the middle. It was installed by cutting the hose to the brake booster and reconnecting it between. That way it was close to the firewall and easy to route a line to the cabin.
@@KarzKreated so I actually found a clutch spot for the SHO (atleast a 2013) or newer and it’s in the door well there are a couple tiny spots filled with insulation you can run right to the cab from under the hood without going through the firewall. But I cannot figure out where to put my T with the line and not 100% sure where you’re talking about the break booster
@@tracemiller1519 follow the breather hose from the intake tube back to the firewall. The thick hose to the left is the one I used. It connects to the intake manifold just after the throttle body.
@@KarzKreated so I’ve had my turbos whistling louder then usually and haven’t been able to hear the BOV or intake at all anymore, no noticeable power loss and the turbos sound fine they are just whistling louder then ever when before I couldn’t hardly hear them. Any ideas of what that could be?
@@tracemiller1519 not sure on that. Could have a small boost leak somewhere causing the additional noise. The rubber couplers on the turbo outlets are known to tear, crack, or split causing a boost leak. If the sound is coming from or near the turbos, that's something worth checking.
Should've done a dragy run
Ha 😄
I'm pretty sure the car would have been slower. I was only doing short term tests.
so how much power does it gain you
It doesn't. With factory BOVs, the car will still Target commanded boost. In theory with traditional vacuum controlled BOVs, you could "trick" the cars tune and run more boost with a manual boost controller.
@@KarzKreated that’s confusing, I thought the whole point of boost was to gain hp and if it doesn’t gain you anything then why are you trying to gain boost
The car was seeing 1 or 2 psi more but because it was controlling boost with the BOVs, boost would drop back down to its command target. In this case it does not give a usable power increase.
@@KarzKreated blow off don't control boost. They let out pressure from your charge pipe after throttle is closed. If no blow off valve thebair would go back to the turbo giving u turbo flutter. Boost controller and wastegate on the turbo is what control the boost. The internal wastegate on the turbobis what your running off.
I Understand. It's a failsafe feature to keep the target boost at its set value. I bypassed the boost controller so the wastegates were fully open. Even though it spiked higher than it would normally, the BOVs would open up to vent enough pressure to match the boost target.
That fuel line isn't stock...
What if you removed the blowoff valve 🤔
Engine go boom
Turbo flutter jesus
@@NormsFunChannel until it blows up lmao
@@NormsFunChannel if cars don't need it then why do the manufacturers put them on in the first place? Definitely not longevity!
@@mattsommers4111 I mean it will just wear out the compressor wheel, it won’t damage anything else. RB26 for example and also any duramax motor with compressor surge
What bama tuner is that?
X4
@@KarzKreated THANK YOU
@@KarzKreated do you have a link I can't seem to find a Bama x4 or any Bama programmer for a sho
@@StreamlineGarage Any X4 for newer Ford vehicles (7015) will work for a SHO.
I originally ordered the X4 for my Cobra. But it also works with most newer Fords.
You can buy any Ford specific X4 and it will work.
Oh man.
How did you get your SHO to rev like that in park? My buddy has one and for some reason when he revs it in park it'll only let him get up to 3500 RPM. Is there any way to remove this limiter?
I'm not sure if the tune I had raised the limiter or not. I don't think I tried to Rev it like that on the factory calibration.
The tune it had was a revised Gearhead Auto Octane 93 Performance Tune.
@@KarzKreated ok thanks Ill let him know. He's in the process of getting the most out his factory stuff
I have an X4 tuner with an unleashed tune and neutral/park rev limiter is definitely adjustable from the tune. I have the option to modify mine before flashing a new map.
(I know this is a zombie post but people still mod and rip these cars)
@@716monk thanks for the reply, I'll send him the info 👍
Can you do it with a nontuned sho?
No. Highly not recommended and would void any warranty. Aftermarket or stick
Have to learn how to brake boost bud 😂
This was useless and a waste of time 😂