I can't decide it's I'm going to build one of those scraper tools or use my thumb. It's the one job I've never done on a guitar. I usually don't like bindings, but a guitar I'm restoring has em, so now it's time. That tool certainly looks like a great way to scrape and avoid cutting in the wood.
Robin here. (The Time Traveler from the Future.) Working barefoot in your shop was scary. I was so worried about your feet! Ok. Whew. I got distracted now I’ll go back and listen to what you were doing…Also good to see your feet have their shoes again later in video!!
Funny enough, that was a hard lesson learned during one of these videos I didn't show.... I dropped a mason jar, and it shattered... and I Was in the middle of the garage with glass all around, and my broom on the opposite side. Shoes or boots are now diligently worn!
Did you sand between sanding sealer coats? I read where you shouldn’t use the sealant on stains because you may sand away the stain. I was very impressed with the outcome of the true oil process. Just want the sanding sealer clarified. Thanks
I was worried about this too. There was a bit of color bleeding initially, but that was on me for not allowing the sealer enough time to sit before staining. I ended up sanding down again, sealing, waiting a couple days, and then started the dye process. It worked out much better. Thinning my dyes with denatured alcohol definitely helped over water thinning.
after sanding the sealer coat, noticed that the top and back are 2 pieces of maple joined in a center seam, and the maple block or maybe they used mahogany in the middle neck tenon joint looked good just spray with a light coat of real polyurethane and another coat and let it dry unless you want satin finish which is good for necks let it dry in a humidity controlled space
I wouldn't go steel wool between each coat. The coats are so thin, you can easily break through them. I did the same in the beginning and had just that problem, sanding away some of my stain, especially on the edges where the true oil can't build up that well. Shouldn't be that much of a problem as you're having binding, yet I would do it only after every few coats. Every 4-5 coats seemd to work well for me afterwards.
Great point! I did change to wool after 4-5 coats instead, followed by grey Scotchbrite and then White Scotchbrite. The results have been stunning. I am just now doing my 2nd to last steel wool on the top.. I've used almost an entire bottle of tru-oil on this guitar, she's looking amazing.
@@iambucketdotcom_official Great to hear, for an even more shiny finish you can mix true oil with nafta on the last coat. That will make it even more glossy. That's how I got my build so shiny. Looking forward to see the finished guitar. Good job so far and good luck.
I was under the impression that you needed to use like items when finishing a guitar. I didn’t know that you could use tru-oil over sanding sealer without having to wait 30 days for it to cure. Now that time is passed how did the project turn out?
Finish is holding up great! It has the normal use marking that all guitars get, from belt buckles and shirt buttons, and random things hitting it. I play it daily and take it to band practices often. Its my main workhorse and gets knocked around quite a bit.
Man, sorry but that is a terrible color combo. Too bad to put that much effort into a guitar that is butt ugly. IMHO, which counts for absolutely nothing. Nice work otherwise.
Having someone be as meticulous as you, it’s crazy that your still using inches. Nice vid and European greetings
I can't decide it's I'm going to build one of those scraper tools or use my thumb. It's the one job I've never done on a guitar. I usually don't like bindings, but a guitar I'm restoring has em, so now it's time. That tool certainly looks like a great way to scrape and avoid cutting in the wood.
I ended up not using the dowel to be honest. i taped off a part of a razor blade and just made it wide enough to do binding perfectly.
@@iambucketdotcom_official Yeah, seems the dowel is good to give you an idea of what is going on. I'll probably be starting that way too. Cheers
Robin here. (The Time Traveler from the Future.) Working barefoot in your shop was scary. I was so worried about your feet! Ok. Whew. I got distracted now I’ll go back and listen to what you were doing…Also good to see your feet have their shoes again later in video!!
Funny enough, that was a hard lesson learned during one of these videos I didn't show.... I dropped a mason jar, and it shattered... and I Was in the middle of the garage with glass all around, and my broom on the opposite side.
Shoes or boots are now diligently worn!
Did you sand between sanding sealer coats? I read where you shouldn’t use the sealant on stains because you may sand away the stain. I was very impressed with the outcome of the true oil process. Just want the sanding sealer clarified.
Thanks
I was worried about this too. There was a bit of color bleeding initially, but that was on me for not allowing the sealer enough time to sit before staining. I ended up sanding down again, sealing, waiting a couple days, and then started the dye process. It worked out much better.
Thinning my dyes with denatured alcohol definitely helped over water thinning.
after sanding the sealer coat, noticed that the top and back are 2 pieces of maple joined in a center seam, and the maple block or maybe they used mahogany in the middle neck tenon joint looked good just spray with a light coat of real polyurethane and another coat and let it dry unless you want satin finish which is good for necks let it dry in a humidity controlled space
I wouldn't go steel wool between each coat. The coats are so thin, you can easily break through them. I did the same in the beginning and had just that problem, sanding away some of my stain, especially on the edges where the true oil can't build up that well. Shouldn't be that much of a problem as you're having binding, yet I would do it only after every few coats. Every 4-5 coats seemd to work well for me afterwards.
Great point! I did change to wool after 4-5 coats instead, followed by grey Scotchbrite and then White Scotchbrite. The results have been stunning.
I am just now doing my 2nd to last steel wool on the top.. I've used almost an entire bottle of tru-oil on this guitar, she's looking amazing.
@@iambucketdotcom_official Great to hear, for an even more shiny finish you can mix true oil with nafta on the last coat. That will make it even more glossy. That's how I got my build so shiny. Looking forward to see the finished guitar. Good job so far and good luck.
I was under the impression that you needed to use like items when finishing a guitar. I didn’t know that you could use tru-oil over sanding sealer without having to wait 30 days for it to cure. Now that time is passed how did the project turn out?
Finish is holding up great! It has the normal use marking that all guitars get, from belt buckles and shirt buttons, and random things hitting it.
I play it daily and take it to band practices often. Its my main workhorse and gets knocked around quite a bit.
Tack cloth after the naptha before you spray? My experience with using steel wool is that it leaves debris all over
Everything was wipe on, no spray. I do admit, I did miss tack a few times but once wet sanding and buff occurred no debris was apparent
Man, sorry but that is a terrible color combo. Too bad to put that much effort into a guitar that is butt ugly. IMHO, which counts for absolutely nothing. Nice work otherwise.
All good, didn't build it for you! :)
I disagree, I think it looks awesome. Just because it’s not a cookie cutter combo doesn’t mean it doesn’t work. Good work!
Yea but he tought me a lot of stuff, except is it water based sanding sealer or petrolium based can i mix the two ??