Working on bodies with curves I use a "sand bag" . Its a thick pillow case with play sand like material. Use your hands to shape it then lay a protective clothe over it then set body on it and it won't move. Very handy. It can be used for shaping sheet metal too if you use a leather sheet on top of the bag. I used the bag along with a dishing stump
Dude! You might consider purchasing a couple of "Glu-Bots"! They will eliminate the issues you had with those stupid Tite-bond bottles. Plus, I am pretty sure that with your follower count they would send a few to you for free. I have been using them for years and they rock! Considering that they only cost about 10.00 US, they are one of the most valuable tools I use in my woodworking. Can't wait to watch you fish the electronics on that 335! If you haven't done one before, you might want to shoot it without sound, then overdub. The first one I ever did probably would have gotten me arrested if people could hear what I was saying! IMHO use the stripped out jack and surgical hose method! That seems to me to be the least difficult. Great channel as always!!!
Awesomeness, so glad this is finally coming about. One thing I'll say, at about @10:00 you should have rechecked the alignment of the neck, making sure it's straight on with the body using some string and the nut. Too much removed material on one side or the other can result in a shift that will be forever uncorrectable. You didn't take much off but it's a good thing to always check.
Good stuff as usual, Covid beard and all!! I switch to Fasco 110 Epoxy Glue for all of those type of operations. No more swelling issues, slow set, long open time and wicked strong.
instead of using the chisel, I'd suggest using a sanding block. One slip with that blade and you take off too much AND it's not stable on the table top.
Hi Brad, great video as always. May I suggest putting some kind of foam mat under the body? It would compensate for the curvature of the back and eliminate all the slipping and rotating.
Mr Angove With the rocking of the body. try some blue foam insulation board under the sides and lower bout of the body.. when you are pairing out the wood in neck pocket.
Woo Hoo!! about time I've been eagerly awaiting this build as I'm a big fan of hollow body. 1st guitar was a 2001 Epiphone Dot. My goodness that vid must be old as you had the neck done before the 1st GBBO as I'm pretty sure I remember it hanging on your wall back then. It may have been done about the same time as the SG you did. Cant wait to see how this goes good luck bud!!
Sounds like we need some cutting board videos too. 🙂 also, how about some details on what you use and how you tape off things like control cavity holes and pick up routes?
Awesome !! I kinda winced a lil when you where tightening it down & all I could hear was a slight crackle sound .. he he he Looking forward to part 2 !!
a few things I would change about the whole thing. for one change out the Gibson neck with that of a Tele neck (bolt on of course), second would be the bridge change out the bridge that is meant for the 335 with that of a Floyd Rose 1 bridge (either 1996 or 1984). that would be a real frankenstein guitar.
@@BradAngove That it would, and it would boil down to how it sounds. but for a tele build, take the same 335 neck, with modifications of course and bolt it onto the tele body, then take the bridge and tail piece and bolt those on as for the pickups I would go with humbuckers (you would have to route out some material in order to fit them). and there you go a frankenstein Telecaster.
Didn't see the kit with your link. Is it the ESK-35 for $289? Can this be shielded? I couldn't be sure what or how to shield it. Looking forward to the rest of the build, especially the finish. Are you going to stain it and nitro it? Rock on.
That’s probably it yes. The pickup cavities can be shielded but I don’t think the electronics cavity can. Not sure how one would access it. This will be a sprayed nitro burst finish.
Hi Brad, what was the reason you decided to mount the neck before sanding and painting? I have seen you with other guitars leaving the neck separately until it was finish. The reason I am asking is that I am at the point I need to make a decision whether I need to mount the neck at this early stage or not ;-)
This is for Brad, or ANYONE who knows... I'm wanting to finish a stained table with Mohawk pre-cat, flat lacquer CLEAR. In my research I'm finding instructions that say DO NOT skip the sanding sealer when finishing with pre-cat lacquer. I called a place near me that carries a Mohawk flat lacquer and the salesperson is telling me that the product he has is new and you do not need a sanding sealer because it is the lacquer and sealer in one. I cannot find any info online regarding this. Does anyone know if Mohawk makes such a product or can anyone lead me in the right direction. I do not mind using a sanding sealer, but I just want to be clear.
The sanding sealer is there to seal up the pores so you don’t need to use so much lacquer. It allows you to build a nice smooth sealed surface before moving on. I recommend using it.
The story about a tight glue joint you loosened up. You kinda lost me on that. A neck pocket seems like it should be snug, but we’re just commenting for the algorithms. Its your guitar. Your show; but this is just the comment bin. Please continue.
A trick if only Tite-Bond 2 or 3 is on hand is to water it down by 1/4. 3 is only more water resistant and food safe than 2. NONE that are not labeled for marine use is fully waterproof!!! If you cut it by a 1/4 or 1/3 with water and mix it thoroughly, this will give you a similar result to hyde glue- with a far longer open time and easier clean up. It's always best to test this on a "mock-up" before going full in. I understand that they now make a water based hyde glue that has become widely available in the US. I'll report on that once I have had a chance to test it, If'n you're interested.
Working on bodies with curves I use a "sand bag" . Its a thick pillow case with play sand like material. Use your hands to shape it then lay a protective clothe over it then set body on it and it won't move. Very handy. It can be used for shaping sheet metal too if you use a leather sheet on top of the bag. I used the bag along with a dishing stump
Cool idea
@@BradAngove very easy to make!
Dude! You might consider purchasing a couple of "Glu-Bots"! They will eliminate the issues you had with those stupid Tite-bond bottles. Plus, I am pretty sure that with your follower count they would send a few to you for free. I have been using them for years and they rock! Considering that they only cost about 10.00 US, they are one of the most valuable tools I use in my woodworking. Can't wait to watch you fish the electronics on that 335! If you haven't done one before, you might want to shoot it without sound, then overdub. The first one I ever did probably would have gotten me arrested if people could hear what I was saying! IMHO use the stripped out jack and surgical hose method! That seems to me to be the least difficult. Great channel as always!!!
Thanks Mike. I appreciate those recommendations and will look into them.
Awesomeness, so glad this is finally coming about.
One thing I'll say, at about @10:00 you should have rechecked the alignment of the neck, making sure it's straight on with the body using some string and the nut. Too much removed material on one side or the other can result in a shift that will be forever uncorrectable. You didn't take much off but it's a good thing to always check.
That is a good point.
@@BradAngove very excited to see how this build comes out
@@RobertNolan if .a
Iittle .play?
@@brucemackintosh7933 what now?
Awesome Brad, cannot wait to watch the rest of this build! Always wanted a 335, interested to see what you do with it!
I hope you enjoy it.
Good stuff as usual, Covid beard and all!! I switch to Fasco 110 Epoxy Glue for all of those type of operations. No more swelling issues, slow set, long open time and wicked strong.
Nice; I’ll have to take a look at that one. Thanks for the tip Mike.
instead of using the chisel, I'd suggest using a sanding block. One slip with that blade and you take off too much AND it's not stable on the table top.
Second! And YAAAAAY! Hasn't even started yet and I'm excited.😂😂😂 That was an excellent tutorial.
Thx Brad, I’ll be doing another glue in neck pretty soon. Always great advice from you Sir!!
Thank you.
Been waiting for this one! Can't wait for the finishing video!
Soon! And the finishing process will likely be cumulatively 2-3 videos.
Hi Brad, great video as always. May I suggest putting some kind of foam mat under the body? It would compensate for the curvature of the back and eliminate all the slipping and rotating.
Great idea
Mr Angove
With the rocking of the body.
try some blue foam insulation board under the sides and lower bout of the body..
when you are pairing out the wood in neck pocket.
Thank you; that’s helpful.
Woo Hoo!! about time I've been eagerly awaiting this build as I'm a big fan of hollow body. 1st guitar was a 2001 Epiphone Dot. My goodness that vid must be old as you had the neck done before the 1st GBBO as I'm pretty sure I remember it hanging on your wall back then. It may have been done about the same time as the SG you did. Cant wait to see how this goes good luck bud!!
Ya it was pretty ancient haha.
Sounds like we need some cutting board videos too. 🙂 also, how about some details on what you use and how you tape off things like control cavity holes and pick up routes?
I have some videos on that. I won’t be taping the cavities on this one but I will be taping the binding.
Hey good to see you again !I'm just finishing up a strat with p90/s ...sounds amazing...learned alot from you now I have like 9 or 10.....
Nice!
I'm getting one asap
Enjoy
Great work love your videos!
Thank you
Looking Good!
Awesome !! I kinda winced a lil when you where tightening it down & all I could hear was a slight crackle sound .. he he he
Looking forward to part 2 !!
Nothing cracked on this one haha.
At last! Good job brother..... hopefully it never needs a neck re set lol using TB-lll is like welding wood!
Haha yeah that’s for sure.
Nice project!!!
Thanks
a few things I would change about the whole thing. for one change out the Gibson neck with that of a Tele neck (bolt on of course), second would be the bridge change out the bridge that is meant for the 335 with that of a Floyd Rose 1 bridge (either 1996 or 1984). that would be a real frankenstein guitar.
Intriguing. That would be quite the build.
@@BradAngove That it would, and it would boil down to how it sounds. but for a tele build, take the same 335 neck, with modifications of course and bolt it onto the tele body, then take the bridge and tail piece and bolt those on as for the pickups I would go with humbuckers (you would have to route out some material in order to fit them). and there you go a frankenstein Telecaster.
Brad, rather than chisel the neck pocket, why not sand? Seems like you would have finer control.
A sharp chisel offers better control and has a flat edge that you can use to ensure everything stays square.
Didn't see the kit with your link. Is it the ESK-35 for $289? Can this be shielded? I couldn't be sure what or how to shield it. Looking forward to the rest of the build, especially the finish. Are you going to stain it and nitro it? Rock on.
That’s probably it yes. The pickup cavities can be shielded but I don’t think the electronics cavity can. Not sure how one would access it.
This will be a sprayed nitro burst finish.
Great videos! Is this the StewMac 335K? I can’t find that in the comments? If not, would you identify the source. Thank you! best regards, Robert
Hi Robert, this is the 335 kit from Solo Music Gear. I have an affiliate link to their site in the description.
@@BradAngove thank you for your kind reply.
Очень даже симпатичный кит ) Мне очень понравился) Тоже кстати делаю видео про гитары - диорамы)
I clamp mine down pretty snug, back it off a bit after an hour then let it sit 2 days
Excellent
I think you need a sound guy with one of those mic booms lol
Haha yeah, that was old footage. I’ve learned a few things about my mic since then.
Hi brad thank you for your tutorial. At 6:40 you said if the neck is too loose it's more a problem. What would you do if it happen?
If it’s really loose I would take some veneer and put in a shim in the pocket to make it tighter.
Hi Brad, what was the reason you decided to mount the neck before sanding and painting? I have seen you with other guitars leaving the neck separately until it was finish. The reason I am asking is that I am at the point I need to make a decision whether I need to mount the neck at this early stage or not ;-)
Because this is a set neck, I did not want to have to glue it up already painted. My concern is the clamp on the back of the body marring the finish.
@@BradAngove thanks for the explanation!
This is for Brad, or ANYONE who knows... I'm wanting to finish a stained table with Mohawk pre-cat, flat lacquer CLEAR. In my research I'm finding instructions that say DO NOT skip the sanding sealer when finishing with pre-cat lacquer. I called a place near me that carries a Mohawk flat lacquer and the salesperson is telling me that the product he has is new and you do not need a sanding sealer because it is the lacquer and sealer in one. I cannot find any info online regarding this. Does anyone know if Mohawk makes such a product or can anyone lead me in the right direction. I do not mind using a sanding sealer, but I just want to be clear.
The sanding sealer is there to seal up the pores so you don’t need to use so much lacquer. It allows you to build a nice smooth sealed surface before moving on. I recommend using it.
Distance from the bridge measured to what point? The same fret to the nut?
12th fret to the nut and to the bridge should be the same.
@BradAngove Ah.Yes Understood now. Thanks.
I'm motivated now for my attempt at Gibson ES 335. ) Figured Blue Burst
@davidrussell8783 excellent; I hope it goes well for you.
Is this specific kit still available I can’t seem to find it through the link
I’m not sure. I would think so, but if not Solo customer service should be able to help you find something similar.
It is still available: SOLO ESK-35T DIY ELECTRIC GUITAR KIT
Bench cookies for body to rest on and it won’t rock.
So are you doing the glue up before you sand it out?
Yes
Hi mate. Any tips for if the neck pocket is too big please?!
Glue in a veneer. Popsicle sticks also work if there’s lots of space.
@@BradAngove or as we say in Blighty… lolly sticks! Thanks mate, much appreciated 🤙🏼
I used hide glue on my 335 kit..
That’s a good option.
I learned how to make a guitar and a new word: pandemicky! ;-)
Gotta love new words.
can you get that with dot inlays?
I haven’t seen it with those, but there may be one like that on the site.
News flash: When glue is put on wet, it dries, and it SHRINKS when it dries. Good talk.
Oh, is story time over now?
The story about a tight glue joint you loosened up. You kinda lost me on that. A neck pocket seems like it should be snug, but we’re just commenting for the algorithms. Its your guitar. Your show; but this is just the comment bin. Please continue.
I appreciate you commenting for the algorithm.
First.
First in our hearts ya S.O.B.😂😂
Are ya crazy? Titebond III? Bradley Bradly Badly. If I were there I would make you drink a Coors Lite. And… smoke a cigar!!!!
Haha I explained this in the video!
@@BradAngove , yeah you just needed some grief🤫
Sounds reasonable
A trick if only Tite-Bond 2 or 3 is on hand is to water it down by 1/4. 3 is only more water resistant and food safe than 2. NONE that are not labeled for marine use is fully waterproof!!! If you cut it by a 1/4 or 1/3 with water and mix it thoroughly, this will give you a similar result to hyde glue- with a far longer open time and easier clean up. It's always best to test this on a "mock-up" before going full in. I understand that they now make a water based hyde glue that has become widely available in the US. I'll report on that once I have had a chance to test it, If'n you're interested.
@@mikemarien3246 , oh yeah. Do it!
Mmmmmmm............F holes............ ;)
Hahaha