us poor folks gotta do things the way we can afford to do it. the key is the effort put into it to make it not look like complete trash lol...... unless that's the look your goin for that is 🤪
I vote against the click bait titling. Be honest, show integrity, and avoid name calling. You guys do some really nice work. Thank you for posting this kind of material for us wanna be painters.
I couldn't agree MORE about the name calling! I'd love to go to their luthier/guitar building school, but if an instructor calls me "Stupid" I'm walking out.............
@@PhillipBlanton Greed of money fucks everything up, remember what the world was like before money? It was so pristine and beautiful and greed and overpopulation fucked it all up. C`est la vie!
@@drivinsouth651 Lol, no.. no one remembers what the world was like before money and you certainly don't, either. None of us were around then.. some form of currency has _always_ been around, even in your fairy tale magical rainbow fantasy world.
I disapprove of Matthew experimenting with video titles by way of calling me stupid. Outrageous! However.. The former not withstanding... A fine finishing video indeed. Huzzah! Well done Christopher!
I'm glad the painting process was not sped up. It's difficult to get how fast (or slow) you have to move, how long to hold the trigger, and even to blend over the last line to the new when the process is sped up. So huge thanks to Matt for keeping this process in real time.
That was great! What an amazing job on that faux binding. There was hardly any bleed through at all! I have to get me some tape like that (and Chris's skills). Thanks again guys!
Apart from the beautiful results and the obvious skills needed what was equally impressive was the smoot pirouette Chris did with the air hose during the painting. You guys continue to educate and entertain us. Thank you
Being a painter for 45 yrs. This is a nice vid. Your choice of product is top shelf. I believe in acrylic for finish. Auto is good for metal and plastic. As for wood I like something that moves with subtle temp changes poly tends to poly tends to be more fluid. IMO. Nice vid , keep em coming
Thanks Cliff, you know, this video has 15 times more views than we normally get. It could be that people want to watch Chris paint but I think it has more to do with the title being provocative. Thanks for your kind words my friend
Thanks for the video, I’m listening to you work as I sand my newly build chambered body. I’m getting ready to paint and finish my first home built guitar, I’m pretty sure this is quickly turning into an addiction and I appreciate your content. You have provided me with some detailed knowledge I haven’t found elsewhere (unless I spend 2 hours sifting subreddits).
Unfortunately I live in Cali where they have ruined just about any type of finishing product except nitro lacquer. At least I can still get it I think. No naptha, no mineral spirits and any solvent is basically acetone. Including what they call paint thinner. I'm using a UV cure polyester for sanding sealer. It gets you to the paint stage much quicker. It's called Solarez. Thanks to you I now know about Simtec. They also make a UV polyester sand/seal.
Hi Cris & Matt, Now this was a really great educational video. I just retired after 40 years as a high end luxury car dealership automotive painter. I have only done a few guitars. This was super helpful. Your never to old to learn. I love your channel. You guys definitely know quality and great workmanship. Thanks again. Stay safe and well and keep Rocking. Signed John Gregory Zepbass from Munster Indiana.😊😊😊😊😊😊
Why do you think you need to "signs" your comments, when your username ALWAYS appears at the beginning? D'ya think it's going to be "anonymous?" Nope. It won't. Like the name means anything, anyway. I mean, of course it does to you, it's YOUR name! So, to you it's the most "magical" sounding thing anyone could say... But to everyone else, it's just a bunch of random syllables.
This was like watching Bob Ross work, early on and in the middle i kept thinking it was messed up but at the end it's a piece of art that is nice enough to hang in a hotel room.
What size nozzles did Chris use for 1) the color coats, 2) the clear coats? Pressure always around 35-40 psi? Any sanding between clear coats? Any buffing after the final clear coat? Very impressive result. Cheers and well done!
Great job, you guys! I like your technique! I usually do my sunbursts with a 0.4 nozzle airbrush and finish all guitars with shellac (french polishing.. 150+ coats).
39:31 aside from the orange peel in the clear, there's a massive dust nib just to the left of the pickup slot that can be seen from far away at certain angles and some more just by his left hand. Hopefully those were taken care of.. then you can say a million bucks, but until those are fixed, that's looking like a bounced check.
I have watched both Heritage guitars and Gibson's Tom Murphy shoot a cherry burst Gibson as you know shoot yellow base coat the the cherry over . Where as Heritage do a cherry shade coat and the yellow over my experience shooting yellow over cherry obviously effects the cherry..hence your possible need to over shoot the cherry to darken it! great video !!
Title of the video does come off kinda raw to most people. I have worked in a plumbing, heating, hvac industry 11 years with contractors too and I am not offended. It actually drives me to do better MFn job then they can!
As pros who have a system and booth down cold, I would love your design advice for a more modest set up. If you were to build a booth sized for one guitar, and painter, what’s your minimum sizing? How would you build it? What intake and exhaust filters would you recommend? What’s a recommended entry level yet quality gun? Working in a home studio with respect and safeguards for neighbors, what safety/ air quality protections would you advise? What ‘s your reasonable budget for all this? Thanks so much; I’m sure it took years, maybe decades to hone down your technique, equipment and shop. Quite a mountain to climb, thanks for lighting the path.
About 20yrs ago I bought a Paul Beard “Dobro”, his bread & butter model and guitar body was bound in natural Maple. Later had Mark Thibeault of Rayco “Resophonic’s”, make me a custom w/Tiger or Quilted Maple & used natural maple as binding w/ Chinese Black Vein Turquoise for the inlays. Beautiful!
I have done a burst the way you showed, and I did one rubbing on the stains and blending them like Big D Guitars does them and I can't say one way looks better than the other, but the way you showed wastes quite a bit of paint.
I never bought into the "Lacquer helps the wood breath" mess but I like the way Lacquer looks, yellows and checks/ages. Poly usually looks thick plastic-y as opposed to lacquers hand rubbed fine furniture/less glossy look. At least this is my experience. I am not a pro but I have built a few guitars. The early ones were rattle can poly, later I used rattle can lacquer, now I use lacquer with a gun and I hand sand/polish and it looks so much better to me. The lacquer also seems to sink into the grain a little which gives a more vintage appearance up close.
Lovely burst! One tip: try using the 3M 244 gold tape to tape off the fretboard. Leaves less residue behind when peeling off the tape. I often cover that with Stewmac's brown binding tape to protect the fretboard from accidental knocks, but the gold tape is amazing.
That 244 gold is exactly what we used to paint cars when I did autobody refinishing 👌 I found something a couple of weeks ago that had tape on it from 10 years ago; still stuck just as good as the day I put in on whatever that was I can't recall right now 😆
GREAT video of a REAL paint booth for guitars. I'm betting your paint jobs come out BETTER than many of the big brand factories out there. Great education here for anyone interested in painting guitars.
Getting vinyl tape onto the sides of the faux binding, sure, no problem. But perfectly getting the tape wrapped over the edge and onto the top edge of the binding? That's witchcraft. That's so well done!
Nice work. I I grew up helping my dad paint and do bodywork on cars . One thing I've noticed most great painters eyeball all their colours. Really good job he would have loved to see this video watching a Job get done correctly 👍👍👍
I LOL'd when Chris said he couldn't remember if he stirred the 2K. It reminded me of a joke where this guy saw his friend jumping up on down a lot. He said "what's going on?" The reply came "I just took my medicine, but it said shake before use on the bottle." This video was really awesome. Watching how Chris does the spraying of the burst had me enthralled. You guys are artists in wood and paint. Thank you for posting stuff like this. It keeps me motivated. I even went back a few years and rewatched the series on doing a fabric top. Great stuff. Did you know that there's another guitar-making UA-camrs named Matt and Chris as well?
Chris peeled the tape off of the top of the body and all I could say was “Dayum!” Getting the top edge of the “binding” masked off like that… witchery indeed. 😁
Wow; Chris does beautiful work! Matt: if you have not invested in a steadicam for you video capture, I highly recommend you do so! (Some of the images were so dizzying! 😂)
Great Video, as usual... learned a Lot!! Having said that... at the very end, when you were showing off the guitar... I noticed a very visible "Blotch" right in the near middle of the body. Precisely, it was about half way from the lower Left (when looking straight down from the top) of the pick-up cavity to the outer edge. Great finish, otherwise.
Great job, but I'm surprised they didn't buff out that nasty flaw just to the left of the bridge pickup hole. It's so obvious in the light of the shop.
Modding some tele-type guitars (Glarry, HB) and gathering materials for a Barncaster Esquire-type. I'm going to post these mods on my YT channel in the next couple of months. Gotta say, I've learned a lot of little, but very important things here, on TTG. Thanks, guys! I'm seriously going to pick up one of your Fender types ASAP. Would love to review one.
Lacquer isn’t “plastic”, and if you believe that, YOU’RE stupid. Nitrocellulose lacquer is permeable, meaning air moves through it. Catalyzed poly is not permeable, meaning, what’s under the finish STAYS under the finish, and what’s outside, STAYS outside. In fact, the urethane/polyester finishes are the only “plastic” finishes. If you look at older guitars that have gone cloudy, you’re seeing moisture that had been trapped under the finish FOR LIFE. Paul Reed Smith and Hamer are two high end companies that learned this the hard way, and eventually improved their wood drying and shop humidity control dramatically. I’m a professional luthier by trade, and I’m a stickler about humidity and moisture content. And I spray Nitro Lacquer AND Cat Poly. I’ve learned steer clear of the bias, and stick to the facts. In the end the customer gets to make informed decisions on their build, leave with the guitar they want, and enjoy a lifetime of happiness with an instrument that will last a lifetime…..WITHOUT cloudiness under the finish.
Lacquer simply means a paint product that dries through solvent evaporation as opposed to one that cures/hardens. Lacquers would almost always be nitrocellulose in composition and ARE a plastic. NC was in fact the first man made plastic so YOU'RE the one who's stupid! Almost ALL paint finishes are semi permeable membranes INCLUDING 2K urethane, all that varies is the degree of permeability. Paint products that aren't are used in specialist environments where corrosive of caustic chemicals are used. Unlike you, I don't feel the need to boast about what I do.
Great Video! A few questions: 1.) What are you sanding the sealer coat to prior to this step? 2.) I know before you've said that you use Omni and Delcron produts from ppg, but I can't seem to find them anywhere (discontinued?) What are you using today?
Nice finish. I have a Tenor Uke I am building but I think it will just have a satin clear finish. Finishes can take as much effort and time as the instrument itself but they sure can add to the looks....
I use the orange vinyl tape I purswad it with a little heat especially if it's into the curves of a headstock like a dean or fender or what not not alot just enough to get it confiorm.
I have a 72 Telecaster bass body that I want to refinish. I have it sanded down. There are a few areas that have indents. What is recommended to fill them? Grain filler?
I don't thing grain filler will do it... If course I haven't seen them. You need something that we'll take the lowest part of the dent and raise it to the highest part of the sealer.
Question: If you have to tape the edges of the neck (with the fret markers) anyway, why not start there with the blue tape and fold it over onto the neck? Wouldn't that eliminate the seam at the edge of the neck and having to "fold" the tape over each fret? Then the neck would be covered and sealed edge-to-edge.
watch again. the maple binding on the neck gets clear coats. we peel the tape off the binding, then it gets clear coats. Thats why we tape only the fret board. the whole idea is to remove tape as you go, not add more half way thru the process, as your method would require. Why do people second guess my methods without watching the whole video?
Really looks good was there a dent in the top of the guitar ? Looks like something was on it when he was showing the finished job. Hopefully it was just a fingerprint or something and not a ding
Life would be a lot easier if you didn't constantly have to fight your recoil hose that's also a dust and shit magnet. You could also ditch the pressure gauge on your gun, I can see you're good enough not to need it and pressure drop over the given length of hose you'd always use is very quickly learned. Just use your wall mounted regulator and add a little. Given the amount of gun manipulation, because of all the shapes, I'd even dump the quick connector in favour of a simple nut and tail. They're not so easy to buy but you can get rubber, as opposed to neoprene, hoses that are far more flexible. For the colour, again just to make things super easy you could drop to 5/16" internal diameter hose.
very good video, I only have 2 questions 1 What pressure are you using? 2 which paint gun do you use in this video because I am looking on Amazon Thanks and keep rocking the way of building guitars
I luvvit! I don't have the professional painting stuff, I refinish CHEAP guitar finds with Rustoleum rattlecans. Hobby. I'm anxious now to try the "masking a binding" method on my next Squier Affinity strat. It should work! I think i will spray at lest one coat of flat clearcoat on the guitar curve AFTER excessive sanding to ensure that the strip of tape has a deadly smooth, bleedless surface to seal onto. Thanks for the good video.
Great video..👍🏻 did you go back over the clear coat after you showed us, As i could see a few imperfections in the clear coat when you were moving the guitar about at the end of your video.
I really enjoyed the video. I stumbled on it by accident . I am 75 and since 1976 I have been involved with guitar design in so far as helping redesign electric guitars for production. I am sure you know how small changes can avoid extra steps and therefore added time to making any new design. I have owned all the classics and on whole feel the most comfortable with both sound and feel of many Gibsons. Like every Gibson guy I have also admired great players of Strats and Tele's. It occured to me that many Gibson players would love a guitar that passed as a 'Fender' but with the neck from nut to heel to be a Gibson spec. In general it's a Tele bridge PU that seems the least strange to ears that like a P90 or HB. There is nothing more Strat than the neck PU or the neck and middle on together. A hardtail bridge is a given. Gibson guys are not big fans of a whammy. A lot of Gibson guys love to boast of their Lp or SG being better than a Tele or Strat so a clone body is a nonstarter. It's a long story but a close friend of Leo's I have known over the decades came to the rescue. I would say who but he is still alive and well known for his own work. He recently retired but the business has gone on to the second generation. There is a prototype sketch from 1953 where Leo took the Tele design and changed the bass wing to something similar to his just completed P. Bass and the treble wing is chopped off much the same as what was used on the Jazz Master years later. The headstock looks very Strat but it is the same size as the Tele. If you are curious I have the prototype so I can send you a pic.
This is very nice work. That guitar is going to be beautiful, even though it's not what I would have asked for myself before having seen how great it looks.
I have a Jackson bolt on neck that I had a friend paint. He used automotive urethane paint which he uses on moto helmets. I have a water slide decal I want to apply to the headstock, but he says his urethane will likely melt it. Is there something I can put over his finish that I can follow up with nitro lacquer?
I understand your confusion my friend. The paint stuff is full of terms and products that can be overwhelming. We have done several videos on the Simtec products. That may help you or it may not. Unfortunately I can only add to your confusion by saying I would not use the Sim tech products if your refinishing a Les Paul. Traditionally those are finished in vintage style paints like lacquer. Using the modern paints might not give you what you are looking for
@@TexasToastGuitars Thank you for your reply. I have probably watched 20 videos on this subject and the fact that your video is number 21, this is because “vagueness-of-information” seems to be the rule, not the exception. This is the first negative comment I’ve left because I’m here to learn and not troll. Unfortunately, I have left numerous comments asking questions like, “What grit sandpaper did you use to sand the grain filler?” and not a single question has been answered. I thought that the only way I was going to learn anything was to leave a negative comment to grab attention. I will revise it after my reply. Your statement, “I would not use the Sim tech products if your refinishing a Les Paul. Traditionally those are finished in vintage style paints like lacquer.” You won’t believe how helpful that simple statement is. Technically, I have a 1999 Heritage H150CM-CSB (Cherry Sunburst), Heritage’s version of the Les Paul, and I broke the neck at the headstock for the 3rd time. I decided to refinish the whole guitar this time (big mistake). It is sanded and just about ready for whatever should come next. For now, I’m going to go with a natural finish (no dye or color). Do you have any videos you could recommend to help me?
What is it with people and sunburst? Sunburst is to cover up the fact that the end grain of the wood absorbs more stain than the top or sides and is hard to cover up when you haven't done the work. And don't call me stupid.
![Lp. Сердце Вселенной #60 РОЖДЕНИЕ ЛОЛОЛОШКИ [Финал] • Майнкрафт](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/YoR0pAV9FVQ/mqdefault.jpg)
I'm not stupid, i'm poor.
us poor folks gotta do things the way we can afford to do it. the key is the effort put into it to make it not look like complete trash lol...... unless that's the look your goin for that is 🤪
Agreed, I am also poor. I gain tools and equipment from facebook marketplace. Got to find ways to support the addiction 😂
I vote against the click bait titling. Be honest, show integrity, and avoid name calling.
You guys do some really nice work. Thank you for posting this kind of material for us wanna be painters.
I couldn't agree MORE about the name calling! I'd love to go to their luthier/guitar building school, but if an instructor calls me "Stupid" I'm walking out.............
Unfortunately it drives views, which makes money.
@@PhillipBlanton Greed of money fucks everything up, remember what the world was like before money? It was so pristine and beautiful and greed and overpopulation fucked it all up. C`est la vie!
Get a Grip Limpy
@@drivinsouth651 Lol, no.. no one remembers what the world was like before money and you certainly don't, either. None of us were around then.. some form of currency has _always_ been around, even in your fairy tale magical rainbow fantasy world.
I disapprove of Matthew experimenting with video titles by way of calling me stupid. Outrageous! However.. The former not withstanding... A fine finishing video indeed. Huzzah! Well done Christopher!
In this case Chris isn't short for Christopher
@@TexasToastGuitars lol…😆
This is outrageous! It's unfair!
Gibson must be stupid.
@@TexasToastGuitars Christian? What a horrible religion, lol! Isaiah 45:7 Great video, thanks for posting! Proverbs 14:15
I'm glad the painting process was not sped up. It's difficult to get how fast (or slow) you have to move, how long to hold the trigger, and even to blend over the last line to the new when the process is sped up. So huge thanks to Matt for keeping this process in real time.
Thanks so much, I'm glad to hear the video was helpful my friend
It’s so much harder than you make it look. Thank you for the tips. I can’t wait to get my hands on one of your guitars.
That was great! What an amazing job on that faux binding. There was hardly any bleed through at all! I have to get me some tape like that (and Chris's skills). Thanks again guys!
Thank you Ron
Apart from the beautiful results and the obvious skills needed what was equally impressive was the smoot pirouette Chris did with the air hose during the painting. You guys continue to educate and entertain us. Thank you
Thaks a million Don
Yep, the man is a ballet dancer.....
Happened on this by accident. The guy is an artist. Beautiful work. I'll check these guitars out.
Thanks Walter we have gotten a lot of flak for this video today
Being a painter for 45 yrs. This is a nice vid. Your choice of product is top shelf. I believe in acrylic for finish. Auto is good for metal and plastic. As for wood I like something that moves with subtle temp changes poly tends to poly tends to be more fluid. IMO. Nice vid , keep em coming
Thanks Cliff, you know, this video has 15 times more views than we normally get. It could be that people want to watch Chris paint but I think it has more to do with the title being provocative.
Thanks for your kind words my friend
Thanks Cliff
Man, I'm definitely going to tape off my binding from now on. Thanks for such a clear and great tutorial. This is why I'm a Patron.
Thanks for the video, I’m listening to you work as I sand my newly build chambered body. I’m getting ready to paint and finish my first home built guitar, I’m pretty sure this is quickly turning into an addiction and I appreciate your content. You have provided me with some detailed knowledge I haven’t found elsewhere (unless I spend 2 hours sifting subreddits).
Unfortunately I live in Cali where they have ruined just about any type of finishing product except nitro lacquer. At least I can still get it I think. No naptha, no mineral spirits and any solvent is basically acetone. Including what they call paint thinner.
I'm using a UV cure polyester for sanding sealer. It gets you to the paint stage much quicker. It's called Solarez. Thanks to you I now know about Simtec. They also make a UV polyester sand/seal.
Hi Cris & Matt, Now this was a really great educational video. I just retired after 40 years as a high end luxury car dealership automotive painter. I have only done a few guitars. This was super helpful. Your never to old to learn. I love your channel. You guys definitely know quality and great workmanship. Thanks again. Stay safe and well and keep Rocking. Signed John Gregory Zepbass from Munster Indiana.😊😊😊😊😊😊
Why do you think you need to "signs" your comments, when your username ALWAYS appears at the beginning?
D'ya think it's going to be "anonymous?"
Nope. It won't.
Like the name means anything, anyway.
I mean, of course it does to you, it's YOUR name! So, to you it's the most "magical" sounding thing anyone could say...
But to everyone else, it's just a bunch of random syllables.
This was like watching Bob Ross work, early on and in the middle i kept thinking it was messed up but at the end it's a piece of art that is nice enough to hang in a hotel room.
Hmmmm
What size nozzles did Chris use for 1) the color coats, 2) the clear coats? Pressure always around 35-40 psi? Any sanding between clear coats? Any buffing after the final clear coat?
Very impressive result.
Cheers and well done!
Just read the pds that comes with your finish lol
Great job, you guys! I like your technique! I usually do my sunbursts with a 0.4 nozzle airbrush and finish all guitars with shellac (french polishing.. 150+ coats).
What a waste of time when there are far better materials.
39:31 aside from the orange peel in the clear, there's a massive dust nib just to the left of the pickup slot that can be seen from far away at certain angles and some more just by his left hand. Hopefully those were taken care of.. then you can say a million bucks, but until those are fixed, that's looking like a bounced check.
I have watched both Heritage guitars and Gibson's Tom Murphy shoot a cherry burst
Gibson as you know shoot yellow base coat the the cherry over .
Where as Heritage do a cherry shade coat and the yellow over
my experience shooting yellow over cherry obviously effects the cherry..hence your possible need to over shoot the cherry to darken it!
great video !!
I think it was a color mix
Great job Chris, you make it look so easy. Nice presentation too. Lookout Matt! 😆 👍
Keeping it simple right
What a great video, great content! Would love to know more about what guns you are using and at what pressure.
So cool work Chris!!! Love it!
Great paint job! I think I'd leave the burst on the headstock because it looked great!
Title of the video does come off kinda raw to most people. I have worked in a plumbing, heating, hvac industry 11 years with contractors too and I am not offended. It actually drives me to do better MFn job then they can!
Nice work, the finished product looked GREAT🎉
As pros who have a system and booth down cold, I would love your design advice for a more modest set up. If you were to build a booth sized for one guitar, and painter, what’s your minimum sizing? How would you build it? What intake and exhaust filters would you recommend? What’s a recommended entry level yet quality gun? Working in a home studio with respect and safeguards for neighbors, what safety/ air quality protections would you advise? What ‘s your reasonable budget for all this? Thanks so much; I’m sure it took years, maybe decades to hone down your technique, equipment and shop. Quite a mountain to climb, thanks for lighting the path.
Eddie used bicycle paint on a factory second body...turned out pretty well for him
About 20yrs ago I bought a Paul Beard “Dobro”, his bread & butter model and guitar body was bound in natural Maple. Later had Mark Thibeault of Rayco “Resophonic’s”, make me a custom w/Tiger or Quilted Maple & used natural maple as binding w/ Chinese Black Vein Turquoise for the inlays. Beautiful!
That sounds awesome man
We love that natural binding
Great stuff! Thank you for taking the time to show how it’s done.
Chris,
Outstanding. Man I love your technique burst finish!
I have done a burst the way you showed, and I did one rubbing on the stains and blending them like Big D Guitars does them and I can't say one way looks better than the other, but the way you showed wastes quite a bit of paint.
I'm pretty sure lacquer is essentially cotton, nitrocellulose. Regular just has plasticizers in it and shellac
He said "lacquer" clearcoat, you said "acrylic." They're not the same, are they?
I never bought into the "Lacquer helps the wood breath" mess but I like the way Lacquer looks, yellows and checks/ages. Poly usually looks thick plastic-y as opposed to lacquers hand rubbed fine furniture/less glossy look. At least this is my experience. I am not a pro but I have built a few guitars. The early ones were rattle can poly, later I used rattle can lacquer, now I use lacquer with a gun and I hand sand/polish and it looks so much better to me. The lacquer also seems to sink into the grain a little which gives a more vintage appearance up close.
Lovely burst! One tip: try using the 3M 244 gold tape to tape off the fretboard. Leaves less residue behind when peeling off the tape. I often cover that with Stewmac's brown binding tape to protect the fretboard from accidental knocks, but the gold tape is amazing.
That 244 gold is exactly what we used to paint cars when I did autobody refinishing 👌 I found something a couple of weeks ago that had tape on it from 10 years ago; still stuck just as good as the day I put in on whatever that was I can't recall right now 😆
Chris is so chill. This was very enjoyable. He’s a natural teacher.
He sure is
He.is.stuped
Thanks for showing the spraying in real time!
The Natural Bind was either PRS or Hamer.
GREAT video of a REAL paint booth for guitars. I'm betting your paint jobs come out BETTER than many of the big brand factories out there. Great education here for anyone interested in painting guitars.
yep, wish i could of been there to show you how to do it right.
HAHAHA
I'm going to go to your channel and look for paint videos.
Let me guess what I'll find?
Have fun in your mom's basement 😜
Getting vinyl tape onto the sides of the faux binding, sure, no problem. But perfectly getting the tape wrapped over the edge and onto the top edge of the binding? That's witchcraft. That's so well done!
Thanks brotherman
Great video . Glad I found your channel . I need to finish my telecaster build . I had trouble getting the correct color I wanted . Cheers
Thanks for watching JON I hope your Telecaster project goes well my friend
At the end when showing off the finished product, isn’t there a small blemish 2 or 3 inches above the bridge pickup? Great info and outcome though.
Great video. As a painter, I start "off" the piece and finish "off" the piece.
Are you going to use conductive paint or copper foil for shielding.
Nice work. I I grew up helping my dad paint and do bodywork on cars . One thing I've noticed most great painters eyeball all their colours. Really good job he would have loved to see this video watching a Job get done correctly 👍👍👍
That is a very kind thing to say Andrew, thanks so much my friend
I LOL'd when Chris said he couldn't remember if he stirred the 2K. It reminded me of a joke where this guy saw his friend jumping up on down a lot. He said "what's going on?" The reply came "I just took my medicine, but it said shake before use on the bottle."
This video was really awesome. Watching how Chris does the spraying of the burst had me enthralled. You guys are artists in wood and paint. Thank you for posting stuff like this. It keeps me motivated. I even went back a few years and rewatched the series on doing a fabric top.
Great stuff. Did you know that there's another guitar-making UA-camrs named Matt and Chris as well?
Glad you liked it my friend, someone did tell us that there were another Matt & Chris once
If you're using an intercoat clear, why wouldn't you also use an automotive candy for tint? Wouldn't that be more light fast?
We do, it works great
All in all great stuff, I like how he is explaining very well the processes
Wood top binding- I worked with Gary Erickson in the 80s and saw him do this 👍 He was one of the first Im sure.
Chris peeled the tape off of the top of the body and all I could say was “Dayum!” Getting the top edge of the “binding” masked off like that… witchery indeed. 😁
It's a super cool reveal for sure
Looks great. I dont think those aniline dyes fade tho. Im try to do faded bursts.
Have you guys done a video regarding your paint booth and your filtration system??
great ! one question, why you dont' use nitro coat?
I didn't know it was a title test but I had to check out because of LOL
Great video, and timely for me as I’m finishing up a Tele build now. What type of material is the headstock decal made from?
what about the blemish near the top of the body? You can see it at the end when he moves the guitar around.
Wow; Chris does beautiful work! Matt: if you have not invested in a steadicam for you video capture, I highly recommend you do so! (Some of the images were so dizzying! 😂)
This is GREAT! BEAUTIFUL work, man! Can you share what gun setup you're using, plz?
Great Video, as usual... learned a Lot!! Having said that... at the very end, when you were showing off the guitar... I noticed a very visible "Blotch" right in the near middle of the body. Precisely, it was about half way from the lower Left (when looking straight down from the top) of the pick-up cavity to the outer edge. Great finish, otherwise.
28:31 - Texas Toast has more double entendres than Spongebob Squarepants. 😂
Great job, but I'm surprised they didn't buff out that nasty flaw just to the left of the bridge pickup hole. It's so obvious in the light of the shop.
You always have to wet sand and buff after painting. That is another video
Pretty sweet Chris. You guys look like you turn out a quality product. Thank you and God bless.
Thanks 👍
Modding some tele-type guitars (Glarry, HB) and gathering materials for a Barncaster Esquire-type. I'm going to post these mods on my YT channel in the next couple of months. Gotta say, I've learned a lot of little, but very important things here, on TTG. Thanks, guys! I'm seriously going to pick up one of your Fender types ASAP. Would love to review one.
The title is right out of the Scotty Kilmer play book, LOL
I love how people are falling for this title it's quite funny to me
Yes I totally agree Mike Durban’s method of getting guitars painted is much smarter than mine. Chris is pretty damn awesome. Lol
Now I’ll do Amber sounds like he’s just taking a break on a porn shoot. Lol
That’s what Uncle Ron says. Lol
I do too
Lacquer isn’t “plastic”, and if you believe that, YOU’RE stupid. Nitrocellulose lacquer is permeable, meaning air moves through it. Catalyzed poly is not permeable, meaning, what’s under the finish STAYS under the finish, and what’s outside, STAYS outside. In fact, the urethane/polyester finishes are the only “plastic” finishes. If you look at older guitars that have gone cloudy, you’re seeing moisture that had been trapped under the finish FOR LIFE. Paul Reed Smith and Hamer are two high end companies that learned this the hard way, and eventually improved their wood drying and shop humidity control dramatically. I’m a professional luthier by trade, and I’m a stickler about humidity and moisture content. And I spray Nitro Lacquer AND Cat Poly. I’ve learned steer clear of the bias, and stick to the facts. In the end the customer gets to make informed decisions on their build, leave with the guitar they want, and enjoy a lifetime of happiness with an instrument that will last a lifetime…..WITHOUT cloudiness under the finish.
I love it when I upset guys like you.
Lacquer simply means a paint product that dries through solvent evaporation as opposed to one that cures/hardens. Lacquers would almost always be nitrocellulose in composition and ARE a plastic. NC was in fact the first man made plastic so YOU'RE the one who's stupid!
Almost ALL paint finishes are semi permeable membranes INCLUDING 2K urethane, all that varies is the degree of permeability. Paint products that aren't are used in specialist environments where corrosive of caustic chemicals are used.
Unlike you, I don't feel the need to boast about what I do.
Which spray guns are you using for bursting?
Great Video! A few questions: 1.) What are you sanding the sealer coat to prior to this step? 2.) I know before you've said that you use Omni and Delcron produts from ppg, but I can't seem to find them anywhere (discontinued?) What are you using today?
Nice finish.
I have a Tenor Uke I am building but I think it will just have a satin clear finish. Finishes can take as much effort and time as the instrument itself but they sure can add to the looks....
You know that's right
One of your best videos yet. Masterful paint job! Thanks!
Glad you liked it my friend
If it's very slow evaporating it's either naphtha or xylene.
Very slick. Love the masking to give it the bound look.
I use the orange vinyl tape I purswad it with a little heat especially if it's into the curves of a headstock like a dean or fender or what not not alot just enough to get it confiorm.
I have a 72 Telecaster bass body that I want to refinish. I have it sanded down. There are a few areas that have indents. What is recommended to fill them? Grain filler?
I don't thing grain filler will do it... If course I haven't seen them.
You need something that we'll take the lowest part of the dent and raise it to the highest part of the sealer.
Great video, as always, a cold beer and a few Texas toast videos and the day looks better. Thanks guys.
Our pleasure Joe
Question: If you have to tape the edges of the neck (with the fret markers) anyway, why not start there with the blue tape and fold it over onto the neck? Wouldn't that eliminate the seam at the edge of the neck and having to "fold" the tape over each fret? Then the neck would be covered and sealed edge-to-edge.
We like the fine line tape for fine lines
watch again. the maple binding on the neck gets clear coats. we peel the tape off the binding, then it gets clear coats. Thats why we tape only the fret board. the whole idea is to remove tape as you go, not add more half way thru the process, as your method would require. Why do people second guess my methods without watching the whole video?
No wood primer ? Thats stupid !
Very cool techniques. What brand purple spray gun is that used for the burst? And what tapes do you recommend?
Really looks good was there a dent in the top of the guitar ? Looks like something was on it when he was showing the finished job. Hopefully it was just a fingerprint or something and not a ding
I don't think there were any dings... we still have a bunch of wet sanding to do to this little guy. That video is coming too
great job - looks like good guys, having a good time and doing what you love. Looks fantastic "Macho Man"
Life would be a lot easier if you didn't constantly have to fight your recoil hose that's also a dust and shit magnet. You could also ditch the pressure gauge on your gun, I can see you're good enough not to need it and pressure drop over the given length of hose you'd always use is very quickly learned. Just use your wall mounted regulator and add a little. Given the amount of gun manipulation, because of all the shapes, I'd even dump the quick connector in favour of a simple nut and tail. They're not so easy to buy but you can get rubber, as opposed to neoprene, hoses that are far more flexible. For the colour, again just to make things super easy you could drop to 5/16" internal diameter hose.
Carvin was the first company that did the phony binding trick.... I think.
20 mins 3 seconds=Blushes or flashing.
very good video, I only have 2 questions
1 What pressure are you using?
2 which paint gun do you use in this video because I am looking on Amazon
Thanks and keep rocking the way of building guitars
I luvvit! I don't have the professional painting stuff, I refinish CHEAP guitar finds with Rustoleum rattlecans. Hobby. I'm anxious now to try the "masking a binding" method on my next Squier Affinity strat. It should work! I think i will spray at lest one coat of flat clearcoat on the guitar curve AFTER excessive sanding to ensure that the strip of tape has a deadly smooth, bleedless surface to seal onto. Thanks for the good video.
Stunning guitar! Excellent technique.
Just beautiful!! Did you pore fill at all?
At 40:13 will those marks come out after buffing?.
If you are asking about scratches in the mid-coat being buried by clear than yes
Are you using Tamco Clear? If so, could you share which one?
thanks for the detailed heads up.Keep up the great work.
Thanks for watching William, I like your style
Great video..👍🏻 did you go back over the clear coat after you showed us, As i could see a few imperfections in the clear coat when you were moving the guitar about at the end of your video.
Oh yes... we AWAYS wet sand and buff the clear coat
@@TexasToastGuitars Thank you for the speedy reply. Your guitars do look beautiful , A lot of love and attention goes into yours.
I really enjoyed the video. I stumbled on it by accident . I am 75 and since 1976 I have been involved with guitar design in so far as helping redesign electric guitars for production. I am sure you know how small changes can avoid extra steps and therefore added time to making any new design. I have owned all the classics and on whole feel the most comfortable with both sound and feel of many Gibsons. Like every Gibson guy I have also admired great players of Strats and Tele's. It occured to me that many Gibson players would love a guitar that passed as a 'Fender' but with the neck from nut to heel to be a Gibson spec. In general it's a Tele bridge PU that seems the least strange to ears that like a P90 or HB. There is nothing more Strat than the neck PU or the neck and middle on together. A hardtail bridge is a given. Gibson guys are not big fans of a whammy. A lot of Gibson guys love to boast of their Lp or SG being better than a Tele or Strat so a clone body is a nonstarter. It's a long story but a close friend of Leo's I have known over the decades came to the rescue. I would say who but he is still alive and well known for his own work. He recently retired but the business has gone on to the second generation. There is a prototype sketch from 1953 where Leo took the Tele design and changed the bass wing to something similar to his just completed P. Bass and the treble wing is chopped off much the same as what was used on the Jazz Master years later. The headstock looks very Strat but it is the same size as the Tele. If you are curious I have the prototype so I can send you a pic.
I would love to see it Paul
@@TexasToastGuitars YES.... I would love to see this as well..
@@TexasToastGuitars I sent you an E of the pic and history
The Challenger guitars look great, and this one was one of the coolest.
I really want to try one out one day.
This is very nice work. That guitar is going to be beautiful, even though it's not what I would have asked for myself before having seen how great it looks.
Thanks a million Rick
I have a Jackson bolt on neck that I had a friend paint. He used automotive urethane paint which he uses on moto helmets. I have a water slide decal I want to apply to the headstock, but he says his urethane will likely melt it. Is there something I can put over his finish that I can follow up with nitro lacquer?
Test to be sure
Where can I get one of those pickup cavity paint rig attachments??
I am really clueless and confused. What "kind" of Simtec sealer did you use? Did you use 2000 Series 20x2 Neutral?
I understand your confusion my friend. The paint stuff is full of terms and products that can be overwhelming. We have done several videos on the Simtec products.
That may help you or it may not.
Unfortunately I can only add to your confusion by saying I would not use the Sim tech products if your refinishing a Les Paul.
Traditionally those are finished in vintage style paints like lacquer.
Using the modern paints might not give you what you are looking for
@@TexasToastGuitars Thank you for your reply. I have probably watched 20 videos on this subject and the fact that your video is number 21, this is because “vagueness-of-information” seems to be the rule, not the exception. This is the first negative comment I’ve left because I’m here to learn and not troll. Unfortunately, I have left numerous comments asking questions like, “What grit sandpaper did you use to sand the grain filler?” and not a single question has been answered. I thought that the only way I was going to learn anything was to leave a negative comment to grab attention. I will revise it after my reply. Your statement, “I would not use the Sim tech products if your refinishing a Les Paul. Traditionally those are finished in vintage style paints like lacquer.” You won’t believe how helpful that simple statement is. Technically, I have a 1999 Heritage H150CM-CSB (Cherry Sunburst), Heritage’s version of the Les Paul, and I broke the neck at the headstock for the 3rd time. I decided to refinish the whole guitar this time (big mistake). It is sanded and just about ready for whatever should come next. For now, I’m going to go with a natural finish (no dye or color). Do you have any videos you could recommend to help me?
What is it with people and sunburst? Sunburst is to cover up the fact that the end grain of the wood absorbs more stain than the top or sides and is hard to cover up when you haven't done the work. And don't call me stupid.
calling people names might hurt your business if you have any
Great video Chris. Amazing work. Thanks 👍