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ha! That's awesome

Thank you! I'm about to move and have another 335 kit and a Les Paul kit to build before I do my own from scratch. I've been helpd up wiht lack of shop space, that's finally being solved! More builds soon.

I tried a few Graphtechs and just couldn't find the right one. I ended up carving a bone nut that I didn't do a great job on as my first one. Around July I finally cut a new one and replaced it when I did some other maintenance (fingerboard oiling, shes been getting lots of play and little maintenance, trying to be better about it) Anyway. I ended up using digital calipers, and the plastic nut it came with, to get the spacing needed cut into the new nut. I'm in the middle of a move or I'd make an updated video.

I think thats to sell you on using their product ;) Used stains without issue as do many others.

I used radius gauges to find what the radius of the neck was prior to grabbing the block... I also learned through this process waht's on the box isn't necessarily what's in the kit... Your results may vary.

@@iambucketdotcom_official thank you for the response! I actually got a reply from StewMac & they said it was 16”, but who knows if they actually checked or just regurgitated a response. It just doesn’t make sense that they would make a “335” guitar & not use the traditional 12” radius.

@@iambucketdotcom_official do you happen to know the final weight of the guitar? I'd love to know. 🙂

I ended up not using the dowel to be honest. i taped off a part of a razor blade and just made it wide enough to do binding perfectly.

@@iambucketdotcom_official Yeah, seems the dowel is good to give you an idea of what is going on. I'll probably be starting that way too. Cheers

Plywood. All the changes really brought it new life

I like to use NEVR-DULL on shiny pieces. Since there is no tarnishing, there is no need to use steel wool (I'd use 0000 Steel wool if tarnished, but not on the pickups). I'll use some lightly diluted denatured alcohol on a QTiP to remove hand oils, then NEVR-DULL to give it a shine. Fret erasers for the frets, followed by some polishing compound on a dremel or nevr-dull if I do it fully by hand.

Finish is holding up great! It has the normal use marking that all guitars get, from belt buckles and shirt buttons, and random things hitting it. I play it daily and take it to band practices often. Its my main workhorse and gets knocked around quite a bit.

Thanks for watching! There was not a lot of work needed in the heel of the neck/middle areas. If I recall correctly I did hit the heel/block with a quick 120 grit off camera to be safe and give a better grabbing surface for the glue. It was fairly ill fitting on the sides where I used to sandpaper strips to true it up. I checked for high spots and wiggling before the glueing to be safe!

@@iambucketdotcom_official Thank you for clarifying! I'm enjoying the series.

There is a block in it.. in earlier videos I showed it the best I could. (Fixing the bridge post videos)

🤣 winner!

I play the guitar every day, it travels to my band rehearsals and gigs twice a week, I've only changed minor things (nut, strings). She gets played hard and put away wet sometimes. The tru oil is great but definitely won't be as shiny as nitro!

@@iambucketdotcom_official That’s encouraging. I’ve switched all of my guitars to nitro cellulose or true oil finished. My 335 is the last one, currently an Epi inspired by Gibson. He plays like a dream but I want my guitars to wear in, I’m in my early 30s and would love to spend a lifetime making them my own. Sadly most every 335 model seem to be poly finished unless it’s a true Gibson/Heritage, or Eastman. But the Eastmans have weird body shapes, I want the standard Mickey Mouse ears and large body. I think building a kit like this might be my only option unless I want to spend about $3000. Are you aware of any other middle ground options?

@@McDowellCountyYoungLife if you want something specific the kit is the way to go if you have the time and basic skills to do it! I've not been able to find exactly what I want from a guitar without building it or custom ordering it. Im not aware of a middle ground :( unless you get a completed body/neck joined from somewhere that's routed and ready to go for your own electronics/hardware/etc. Warmoth may be the best option for that.

None at all!

Thank you! It didn't even dawn on me to do it with would like I would other materials (plastic/metal)

I only used a few small parts, like screws or washers, from the included hardware. Everything else was an upgrade.

Sadly, I did sand through right around the F holes, but it looks more like some relicing/usage wear now. Thank you for watching!

I used denatured alcohol. My black was 4oz Alcohol, 3ml black dye (I didn't want it to be too dark) My red was 5 oz Alcohol, 4ml bright red trans tint dye and 1ml black to darken it up. Green was 5oz alcohol, 4ml green. I bought needle-less syringes to accurately get the mL measurement correct. I also did many test pieces and tested different mixes.

@@iambucketdotcom_official Thank you for the tips. I'll get a syringe for sure.

I was worried about this too. There was a bit of color bleeding initially, but that was on me for not allowing the sealer enough time to sit before staining. I ended up sanding down again, sealing, waiting a couple days, and then started the dye process. It worked out much better. Thinning my dyes with denatured alcohol definitely helped over water thinning.

Mistakes were made, I won't deny that. I'm no pro! Amateur at best :) but hey it's my first guitar build, and I still appreciate the watch and comment! Also now 2 years of play, there's a lot more scratches from picks and my watch/bracelets I wear. :)

@@iambucketdotcom_official Hey, don't get me wrong. You did an excellent job on that guitar and I enjoyed the video. I've built several kits, and do all my own luthier work on my guitars. I know what mistakes are all about. I've made more than my share...lol. You live, you build, you learn! All the best

@@Gregabalese I really appreciate the support!

I bought them on Amazon and the Woodcraft retail store. I've not sprayed with Stewmac paints, yet. I have a tele build I want to do that will use those paints, and I'll post videos/results then!

You're right! However, it's marketed as if its made by them. Lesson learned!

@@iambucketdotcom_official I read the ad on their website and it does make it sound like they make it in house, except they never actually say they do. The way I knew it wasn't made by Stewmac is that I found the exact same kit several places on the internet, and the even the photos were identical. Stewmac actually used the factory ad photos.

Thank you! There was definitely debris, but the rags I had shoved in the holes helped mitigate it some. A good strong shopvac with with straws duct taped to the end helped get the small bits out. I should have shown that! There was lots of vacuuming when the steel was involved.