Creality Sermoon D1 Ultimate Extruder Upgrade!
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- Опубліковано 11 чер 2024
- I received the Creality Sermoon D1 and I was in doubt if I should upgrade it. I thought that this printer could be my daily driver since most of my 3D printers are specifically tailored to experiment with. Besides some "weird" design choices I do like this printer, but the direct drive extruder was constantly skipping. ABS came out like a sponge and I was better of with a standard Ender 3 pro. I read more articles about this printer in which it was a shame that it was not possible to add an aftermarket hotend, until now...
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- Ruben
Chapters:
0:00 Intro and explanation
2:31 Taking the printer apart
4:44 Explaining the design in Fusion360
8:02 Adding the mod
9:03 Custom fan duct
12:34 First test print
14:37 Adding the final fan duct
16:33 Outro
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Software used for making my videos:
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- Terminal: Termite www.compuphase.com/software_t... - Наука та технологія
This was the first time for me planning a video automatically and it should've been live at 2pm. Well, guess who screwed up this time xD Enjoy the video and I'll put up the design files later today.
I'd really like those parts you removed so I could try to incorporate them into my cnc setup. XD
That macro shot of the heat set insert! Amazing!
34k subscribers is Criminal for the ingenuity and workmanship this channel offers
The clip of you dropping washers is every maker's pain, only beaten by dropping the exact same washers while crammed into a small space and unable to move your arms...
I had to reach to those damn pliers too. I had to stretch as far as I could while holding the part upright. I was having so much fun xD
@@properprinting I almost pissed my pants watching that part.
You don't need an award for us to believe in your expertise. Subscribed.
Great idea, based on the holder I converted the Sermoon to a linear rail.
A very different printer now.
The conversion is not for beginners as it is quite extensive.
Thanks for the implementation and idea.
LETS GOOOOO! I'm always hyped for new videos from you, keep up the great work!!
Almost got an ender 7 really happy I'm making a voron instead.
Genius 1% inspiration and 99%perspiration. I think you qualify. You my friend are a Genius!
I agree with Jonny Boy. I get hyped every time I get a notification for you videos. You thah man MAAAAN. Looking forward to that rim. Can't wait!
I love your content, the editing is spot on, and I love your music choices :D
Great to see you making videos again!
You keep me laughing while I enjoy your science, science I dream of doing!!!
I love Videos like that. Thanks. Mods like this are pure fun.
Awesome video! You never disappoint!
Nice! Hope to see more of your creations per week.
Hay :-),
first: Love your Videos! Thanks for every one 😊.
Great to see another Sermoon.
Mine runs on a custom Klipper config that i made and a Full Touchscreen delete for the Pi.
That solved every drawback i found with the Printer.
Im now able to print a Very nice Benchy in 40min with everything else stock! Im now running into cooling problems.
Greetings from Germany.
Yes sir, Chief Modification Master, sir.
Always love the vids keep them coming.
You make the funniest videos, keep up the good work.
Glad to see i'm not the only "box top covering" user xD
Great content, great video and i like you show most of fail
Great content as always, glad you got it working well for your needs in the end. I also couldn't stop laughing at the part where you're using tweezers to place the washers on the fan mount hahaha, pure comic gold sir ;) Keep up the good work
You do a great job with your videos big up to you
Damn the upload time is insane and it's even worse I'm still awake. But oh hey. Time for some proper printing at 2:30 am :D
I thought I planned the video for 2pm. First time planning a video and I just woke up realizing I messed up😅
@@properprinting ah you know i thought you were just knowing i couldn't sleep and give me treat here :D
Great modification. I'm waiting for the same direct drive kit as You mounted today, I will put it into my ender3, I'm using my printer and only one thing I can't overcome is my prints very much like to don't be sticky glass bed, I mostly print with petg
Oh man, I can feel your pain assembling the hotend housing and fan! I do not know how many times I have just dropped my allen keys, washers and screws you will never find again! Great video otherwise! keep up with the good content!
Cool video, indeed Coffee is always needed with something like this.
Thanks! Can't do without indeed
Way too much restriction for that part fan! You'll know because it runs noisy. Also, if you put some smoke around the fan, there will be lots of turbulence at the input side. Try adding some bleeder holes -- keep drilling holes and note how it gets quieter. When it quiets down, you'll have enough holes! Think about 40% of the input area on the fan for the output (ballpark number).
Thanks a lot for your input! I didn't give it too much thought, but it would be a good idea to do a bit more research on this topic. I'll design more ducts in the future probably. I'll take a look into your suggestion :D
@@properprinting just my two cents about this: i recently designed a few iterations of ducts (tho for blower fans) for my own machine and I actually tried to bend the air flow as little as possible while keeping the outlet as close to the inlet size as possible. I have some friend run CFD for me and it really helps you understand that complex topic. My solution was loft with a guide rail spline or actually two
Really, use blower fans only for part cooling - no axial fans. This guy has _excellent_ videos about this, and testing the effect of blower fans vs axial fans: ua-cam.com/video/SX-okOHvh1Q/v-deo.html
In some cases axial fans can even cause a reverse airflow!
I just threw on radial fan on hestsink as well.. all potential heatcreeps eliminated!
And, you can have restrictions in the blower route design. Little more noise, but no problem for me vs what i get for it.
Something you should add to your tool collection: screwdriver-shaped allen (hex) drivers with proper handles. So much easier to use than the L-shaped ones! You'll be far less likely to drop them. Only disadvantage is that you can't get the torque you can get compared to driving with the short end of the L (long end out).
In my opinion, the D1 has the potential to be an outstanding unit that'll just flat beat anything else available, but falls short in so many unnecessary and goofy ways. I'd LOVE to know how yours is doing after all this time and/ or anything else you've done to it since this video (also, i have BTT SKR V1.4 Turbo and SKR Mini E3 V3.0 Control Board, should I use one of these or keep original board?). I'm a HUGE fan of your channel and videos, but your mechanical and analytical thought process is what keeps me coming back for more. Thank you, sir.
Creality hasn't hit it out of the park since the Ender 3 and 5. This one is no different from the other quacks of printers. Do they do any actual R&D? Why are there acrylic panels when there's no top?
Owning a CR-10 and the Sermoon D1 the difference is like comparing a VW to a Ferrari. Yes it needs dialed in, but once it is, its a beauty.
the 6 has been a good workhorse for me and with the spyder I can do high temp stuff..
Love your channel. Do yourself a favor and get a set of inverted/spring loaded tweezers. They'll automatically keep the tension on your small objects, like washers, so they don't go flinging away if you accidentally squeeze them.
But hot damn is that printer a pile of classic creality engineering. Seems like they have not learned anything at all
It feels like the esthetics department had the lead on this one xD
loved the part with the rubber gaskets :)) then the allen key jumping away from you. it happened soooooo many times :))))
Haha and I didn't even shown all of it xD It was quite the struggle haha
@@properprinting I sometimes drop the whole thing and go outside for a sec to cool down 🤣🤣
@@AdrianCiubotariu haha exactly, that prevents a lot of mayhem😂
Missed the Kartoffelsalat a bit! 😂 Other than that: Großes Kino! As usual!
That broken award inspires real confidence in your ability 🤣.
Congrats on winning the prize though, does Huvud run on CAN Bus, would like a video about that please.
“ALL HAIL THE CHIEF MODIFICATION MASTER!!”
( Of which year? ) 😂 LOL
You’re fun to watch and make interesting videos. Thank you!
OF ALL TIME!!!! xD
Epic mod,thanks for sharing. Are you planning to make an adapter for the new Creality Sprite hotend as wel? So far it seems brilliant.
Thanks!
My very first super thanks!, Thanks!
I have a sermoon v1 and looking to change the extruder. The one on it is okay, but lacks proper cooling for bridging otherwise it prints great
ben gelukkig niet de enige waarbij alles valt. Sinds ik 3d print lig ik meer op de grond om dingen weer op te rapen dan ooit. Leuke video's
Bedankt! Ja gravity is a bitch 🤣
waarom moet ik altijd zo hard om je lachen :D
Have you added a chamber heater and other mods to this printer yet? Do you have plans to make a follow up videos?
Love your vids, I know you can look at a machine and come up with creative solutions to problems few others see.
I would like your keen eye to do a few voron videos. Not building one or printing fast (further than showing capabilities), but doing that voodoo you doodoo so well in the modification department.
Nice mod master
I ran a belt above the deck between the two z screws. I have problems with the cr touch. CREALITY has left this printer be an outcast. I just installed a SPRITE PRO EXTRUDER ON my ENDER 3 V2. Installed some great software that will take some LEARNING.
If the SPRITE KEEPS printing the way it started, I may install a SPRITE IN THE SERMOON D1.
How "slow" do you run your Ender 3? I can routinely slice at up to 140mm/s before I outrun my hotend's melt capacity.
10:00 an issue you may have realized later in the video (still watching) is that muffin/axial fans do not perform well when ducted. ABS isn't so picky though.
The ducting might also be very constraining too
I usually print around 40-50 mm/min. I tried to say that I had to print slower than a bed slinger which I think shouldn't be the case. I honestly didn't think much of the duct and it's a good idea to do some research on that.
@@properprinting I want to say that CNC Kitchen did a video comparing fans a few months ago, but I'm not certain it was him. It could have been Chris Riley.
A stock Ender 3 should be able to manage up to about 70mm/s. When I ordered mine the seller installed a microswiss hotend, but the stock one should still manage 60 or so.
I should have listed my upgrades, to be fair, when I made my speed claim...
MKS Gen L board w/ TMC2130s
Titan clone direct drive
Dual 5015 duct by Petsfang
PEI flex sheet
Klipper firmware
Klipper has probably made the biggest improvement along w/ the Titan. I've done some tuning and my acceleration is about 2500mm/s/s currently. I could probably fo higher, but I need to attach an accelerometer to it for further tuning.
I have a mosquito liquid and DD on linear rails with e5plus yes it fits
Great Mod, how about BLTouch? Is there a mount for that, or can you makr it, I will use a Ender 3 Bracket.
First move the front door hinge mount forward 5 to 5.5mm. Next make better filament flow. 1. fabricate a bearing filament roller that does not scrape the machine. 2. get rid of the v bearings and replace it with a swivel larger pulley with a removable pin for keeping the filament on the roller. 3. move the filament run out out to the center of the roll. 4. fabricate 2 clip on filament guides that have swivel top. Install a 8 to 10 inch ptfe tube to guide the filament.
15:00 i know that feeling ^^
god the intro is so true.
I designed my Doot Changer with the actual printer I had (hevo) and only kept the frame, boy was it a nightmare, everyday I was holding broken/bad components together with a janky bad fix or glue to make it function well enough to print the replacement, would NOT RECOMMENT. it made me cry ;-;
I feel your pain, been there xD
AS per usual, i absolutely love your video combined with those timelapse !
However I have a question, how do you move so smoothly in fusion ? It's always a pain for me, and I feel like it's hard to actually move how I want to. I'm using simple logitech mouse like the g512 and the mx master 2s
Also, what threaded insert are you using ? everytime i try using them, i feel like plastic is meling inside of it, making it unusable. I have yet to make a single usable threaded insert...
Thanks! I use a CAD mouse for it 3dconnexion.com/nl/product/spacemouse-wireless/ one you get used to it, you can't do without. It works in Blender too. I buy the inserts from Onkenhout, but this is a B2B company which only sells large quantities. I'm planning on selling them myself.
@@properprinting Thanks a lot for the reply ! Also, how do you design the holes for threaded insert, like how much thinner do you make the holes for a M3 threaded insert for instance ? because that might be the source of my issues
@@Sttreg You're welcome! I use the measurements from this document www.onkenhout.nl/pdf/Multisert_zonder_kop/227/t/p it's Dutch though, but the pictures speak for themselves
any plans for a dual extruder Sermoon D1?
Question regarding reversing the extruder motor. What wires do you have to swap to reverse the motor? You said you reversed all of them but because the cable is black it's hard to see what wires were reversed.
Is it as simple as just reversing the entire connection? For example, if the wires were numbered 1,2,3,4 would you reverse it by changing it to 4,3,2,1?
It's indeed as simple as that. If you want more in depth info about this, I dedicated a video on this subject ua-cam.com/video/3R2sExPyiok/v-deo.html
hilarious, fun to watch
did you ever make at better fan duct to the sermoon d1? or another vision ?
What size/part number bearings do I need to buy for the rod?
Rotate your Y axis stepper so that the plug points filament spool. Install an Adel clamp and stand off to the bracket above the Y stepper. Secure the cord tightly to the clamp.
I blame the cord rubbing on the back panel for flexing the stepper connector. The Y axis started missing steps and disabling itself. When you went into manual mode and pushed the back and forth arrows, the stepper would fail within a few moves.
That's great advice and I did, but didn't show it in the video. You can see it in the thumbnail. I used zip ties through the slotted hole to secure the cable.
I'm about to pick one up open box for $275 USD 😁 looks to be a great upgradable printer!
FYI, I've has the old wooden Replicator Dual (from 2012) and modified it over the years into a seriously good machine. And my recent printer has been a Duplicator i3, which I have also very modified. But it seems that everything was done slightly wrong on that one, everything.. I had to redesign at least 7 core components and flash it with Marlin to turn it into a printer every bit as good as a Prusa i3 😉 or better 😜 I haven't has to level the bed in Months!! Perfect 1st layer every time.
Also got the one open box, if I'm going to go through it and modify it.. mights as well tear it down and inspect it. Ensuring there's nothing wrong with the open box purchase. With that said, adjusting the motor voltage IMO is necessary on a budget or hastily built machine. I do it while the machine is running a square and cylinder shape on the bed, then check min/max voltage on my multimeter. This ensures your not overheating your motors (necessary in an enclosed/heated printer) and that you also of course have enough voltage under load so it doesn't skip/shift.
So i picked one up a week after, i kept the carriage and modified the long throat by cutting it down to allow the same full metal micro swiss hotend BUT requires you to shim it because the throat hole is an odd size.. which i did with a copper sheet wrapped around it (very carefully. It's now a true fully metal hotend.
Also fixed another major issue, modified so both carriage/heat-break fans to always run AND designed fan ducts so the lower fan doesn't invariantly cool the part when you don't want it too but also help cool it FAR better. The carriage was alarmingly hot at over 100c before and how when printing large prints at 260c for hours With a cover on top to hold the warm air it's just 5-10c over ambient temp
I can easily print 200mm/s 1000 acceleration as my daily setting but anything faster and i start seeing buffer artifacts while also clearly needing linier advance Although NO ghosting what so ever. I think im going to run Klipper on a old laptop i have laying around or might get Creality's new Sonic Pad.. but it's $150 so idk. Going to see if i can convert a old android tablet for Klipper
Can you fit a twin extruder to this 3d printer like in the snapmaker artisan
What are the make=models of the fans we need yo buy? From Amazon? Link?
Why not dual rails on the gantry ?
Those heat set inserts were just sexy!
I have the same printer i want to upgrade the print head to twin/dual extrusion the one that doesnt switch it is just two hotends next to each other, but i literally have no idea how to do it. There are such extruders on the market available for purchase but i literally have no idea how i can do it. Would you take it as a challenge? Kind regards
They never advertised it as a full metal hotend, They said full metal extrusion.
Should I buy this ? Im looking for a cube-printer either Cartesian built like CoreXY or just a CoreXY
No, there are better machines out there. I've heard great things about the Bambulab X1. That's more expensive though. I also think that you're better off with an Ender 6 or similar.
You ordered the silicone heater from Rat Rig i saw, does this mean there is a Rat Rig build in the pipeline?
I bought that for this printer, but I'm not sure if I'll end up using it for it. I don't have a plan yet xD
Nice. But dont understand why you go from the round bars, to the 2020's. Aren't the rods more smooth and good in the long run?
I did that because many standard hotends can be placed on it easily. For some reason this runs a lot smoother than the stock rods, but I recon that this shouldn't be the case. I'm also able to add my rocker to it now where I won that contest with :D
@@properprinting okey. But why not only make an hotend adapter on the stock rods?
@@SplitPhotography if I'd do that I wouldn't be able to add the Microswiss hotend, nor my rocker system for instance. These rods don't run smooth and you can still add a hiwin rail if you don't like those V-slot wheels. For me it's mostly about the added possibilities now.
Please give me an advice, between Ender 5 S1 and Sermoon D1, which is better choice (about build quality, and capability use for many another purpose), I’m beginner, thanks.
Although I don't have experience with the Ender 5 S1, I'm pretty sure that this is the better choice. I upgraded the Sermoon because I really dislike the extruder which is basically the most important part of a printer.
@@properprinting Thanks for your advice, I will consider Ender 5 S1 for my first 3d printer.
for the next cable swapping thing, you just need to change only tow cables of the same coil.
True, I dedicated a whole video about that. Just swapping all of them is less confusing, thus safer ;)
Finaly. It's been weeks man....
I think you've missed a video ;) But yeah, I've had some delay but I'm back! :D
dude where do you get heat inserts for thin walls like that?
From Onkenhout, which is a B2B supplier. I haven't found them elsewhere unfortunately. They're expensive and therefore I suggest to use regular nuts.
je bent lekker bezig ziet er allemaal goed uit . heb je al eens gedacht om een voron 2.4 te bouwen en daar mods voor te ontwerpen ? mvg nick
Bedankt! In een van mijn eerste videos had iemand een comment achtergelaten over de Voron en sindsdien heeft dat wel altijd in mijn achterhoofd gezeten. Ik denk toch dat ik liever zelf een printer volledig van scratch een keer ontwerp en maak zodat ik dat ook eens ervaren heb. Ik sluit de Voron zeker niet uit, hele gave printer!
ik ben zeker benieuwd hoe die printer er dan uit komt te zien . ik heb zelf een voron 2.4 en ben er zeker blij mee . ik hou alles van je goed in de gaten wou dat ik ding zo kon ontwerpen als jij doet
Could you make a special with ABS tips for functional parts? I am getting a big elephant foot of several layers trying
I basically print it similar as with PLA with the difference of the temperatures, an enclosed or heated chamber and a brim. I print the first layer at 100% flow rate at the same height as the rest. This reduces the bed adhesion, but I get away with it mostly.
I can also add that a PEI surface works wonders with abs while the glass beds tend to be not ideal. Elefants foot has more to do with too close first layer than material
My elephant foot have like 5 layers. Like the foot got melted down. My bed is 100C, Nozzle 235C and I print inside a tent around 40C-50C with fans off. I am printing on PEI
@@properprinting fans on?
@@felipenavas with small parts yes, but mostly not
What was the print speed, looks quite slow.
i also just bought a sermoon d1 3d printer and am also having problems with the z-pillar not sure if i should do the same as you
It's non destructive, so you can always try it and go back if you don't like it ;)
@@properprinting can you share the file you printed the blower kit for the printhead, my friend has gmail
@@cuien686 it comes with the download properprinting.pro/product/sermoon-d1-y-axis-upgrade/
@@properprinting Why can't I see your file?
@@cuien686 it should come with the download. If the download has failed you can try again and if you enter an amount of $0,- you can download it for free.
All I want to know is how many times did you grab the wrong size allen key during this project?
Exactly two times and I managed to capture both of these rare events xD
So nice to see you not become a Shill after winning the award. I was thrown out and banned from every Creality Facebook page for calling out their Shills and I own 8 Creality printers and have helped more people to get their CR6-Se operating properly after the kickstarters arrived..... Go figure.
" Eerst effe koffie" the most used dutch phrase before midday
Are v slot wheels not less accurate than using linear rods would it not have been better to adapt the microswiss to use the linear rods
Good question. I don't think it matter much and the advantages V-slot wheels have, that it's a lot easier to add after market extruders to it, outweighs the disadvantages in my opinion.
@@properprinting very fair, as long as there isn't flat spots I doubt it will be too noticeable
Now that's a proper late upload
First time planning a video and it should've been live at 2pm😅
Now that you can print TPU.........you're gonna have to print the tires to go with your plastic rims ;-)
15:00 this is me working on my printer every time. I Need magnetic fingers or something.
Just on your point concerning the touch display being behind the front doors, these doors are doubly useless because the “enclosure” has no top. Any hot air will simply rise up out of it, doors or no doors, taking the fumes with it!
Creality should just pay you to design a printer 🖨
why you should listen to me?...I'm the chief modification master PUNT ....epic lol
ABS printen met een part cooling fan? Ik print al 6 jaar enkel in ABS en heb dat nog nooit gedaan, en nooit een reden voor gehad.
Misschien kan het wel helpen met overhangs..? eens overwegen of ik een fan kan installeren op mijn printer 😆
Noot; Ik denk dat je hotend ook temperatuur iets te hoog stond voor het type ABS dat je gebruikte.
What is your aversion to PETG? I notice you never print with it.
Stringy, oozy, hygroscopic, gets all over the nozzle, harder to post-process, bed adhesion often too bad or too good
Edit: But I'd love to hear his thoughts as well.
Less heat resistant and also deforms under constant load
@@RubixB0y he prints indoors right? Doesn't abs emit fumes and higher amount of toxins vs petg?
@@felipenavas all plastic deforms under constant load. Either by breaking or bending.
I printed a lot with it in my older videos. All blue parts are PETG. It's not that I don't like it, but I like Nylon and polycarbonate a lot. The reason why I print so much with ABS is because I received a lot from 3D4Makers for that rim. I use ABS for that rim because it can already tell a lot about the performance of my printer (for printing Nylon and polycarb) and it's affordable.
The thought of a reliable 3d printer scares me...
What happened to your award?! (0:25)
twitter.com/properprinting/status/1413169856753586176 fortunately I already received a new one, but that was after that recording xD
Wild I have this printer and my only peeves with it was that all the stock slicer material and retraction settings were for a ender 3, and the dual bearing filament feed setup sucks and jams. Guess you missed those, judging by how clean the hot end was you really did not use it much. Once converted the stock feed to reverse bowden, and fixing the slicer settings been having a great time with the stock hot end. Only other fixes are firmware related, never have to open the doors it just works.
It has an enclosure and no top? WTF?
Just like an Ultimaker xD
You are the Jonest Jon of all the Jons, Chief Modification Master from C-137. If you had a kitten it would probably squanch in your printer, so it's good you don't have one.
Is it a joke ? A core xy printer with a direct drive extruder ? The main point in having a core xy printer is to lower the mass accelerating to get faster accelerations with the same torque (F=m*acc) needles to mention the problem of jerk (derivated of the accelerations which can't be infinite, if you prefer that way, you can't switch from 0m/s^2 to 5m/s^2 in no time you need to accelerate progressively.
This is not a joke, neither a core XY printer
Hahaha eve die mooie Nederlandse tering
Why make something simple when you can make it complicated. All you needed was to change/modify the heatbreak and get rid of the Teflon tube. You replaced the linear guide with a V slot, which is the biggest step backwards. I don't think this is a good way to go.
Thanks for your input. The V slot is just a lot easier to work with and adds more possibilities.
wtf is a sermoon D1? Geez I am out of the loop
Upgrade achieved by replacing linear bearings with aluminium profile with wheels? Hmm... 🙄
Now it fits most extruders, which is a bigger advantage than the slight disadvantage of that linear rail
So basically don't buy the Sermoon D1 haha
Without this mod it's a nice storage space with those doors xD In all honesty I would only buy it if you like the looks and are willing to modify this printer. A lot of people don't mind spending hours modding their Ender ;) But, out of the box this printer did dissapoint and you can get more bang for your buck I think.
@@properprinting i find especially the choice of display placement very weird :D
@@pringineer1027 that makes two of us xD