The very idea that you can make that extruder with so many parts, make it look so easy and make it without any instructions too is absolutely insanely ridiculous dude!
The heat pipes are most likely filled with water (and sometimes with methanol). Definitely not ammonia, as it is used for lower temperatures and, most importantly, it's incompatible with copper, it will eat through the metal (I've tried that, but not with a heat pipe). What you bought is a solution of ammonia in water, which is of no use in a heat pipe (pure ammonia is required). You can put a piece of copper in that ammonia solution, it will turn a beautiful blue colour and the metal will dissolve after a couple of days. Both, pure and dissolved ammonia are corrosive towards copper. If you broke the heat pipe, you wouldn't be able to repair it easily. They contain a very small amount of liquid, and the remaining volume is filled with the liquid's vapour. There is no air inside, and that makes the repair process difficult. Due to the lack of air "ballast", the pressure inside a heat pipe at room temperature is close to vacuum (actually equal to the vapour pressure of the liquid). If you could keep one end of the tube at low enough temperature, you should be able to anneal the another part of the tube safely, provided that you will not damage anything else by the application of heat. However, keeping one end of a such short tube cool may prove difficult, first - due to the high thermal conductivity of copper, and second - due to the heat pipe action, as it will still work, albeit to a much lesser degree than in its intended operating conditions.
@shogoonn I need to repair my fridge in the Winnie that lost the containment, it is ammonia and hydrogen gas. Do you have any resources that can help me find a diy for this? It seems to be a state secret. :)
Does it mean that the liquid in the tubes can be replaced with liquid with higher boiling temperature? And high stability and safety over 200C liquid? Like white spirit solvent or ethylene glycol
@@ИванЮрченко-ф2з Water will do fine at 200°C, the heat pipe will run at a pressure higher than atmospheric. That's not a problem for small diameter tubes. I have some water filled heat pipes from Quick-Cool with working range from 5°C to 250°C. Otherwise, yes, you can have heat pipes with other liquids, including liquid metals. Filling a heat pipe is a complicated operation. It requires a filling station with a vacuum pump, liquid metering equipment, some valves and the ability to close to heat pipe after filling. First you have to pump out everything from the heat pipe, and heat it to a higher temperature to remove any residues adsorbed on the surface, and then you close the vacuum and open the metering vessel, (a small one) which transfers the precise amount of liquid to the tube, and then you close the tube (pinch and weld). There are other methods of filling, but this one is AFAIK the most common one at the factories. You could fill a heat pipe at home, which I've done successfully, by partially filling it with the working liquid, heating it until the liquid boils, and then pinching at the top, when enough liquid was removed (that's the difficult part - knowing how much is left), and then welding. The vapours of the boiling liquid will displace the air from the heat pipe. Instead, if you have a vacuum pump, you can add a slight excess of a liquid to the heat pipe and then vacuum it and seal it.
Just FYI the amount of fluid in a heat pipe is tiny. Very little in there, and its usually under a low atmospheric pressure. It is almost always water as well.
brother, I know I always repeat myself, but i am a proper fan big time !! Sick video again. Your movie making skill always impresses me. Keep being awesome and making stuff.
Man, you are doing brilliant. Its realy inspiring to see the progress on turning a cool and realistic idea into a real product. Thanks for your great contents.
Sick as usual! Very cool concept to take a CPU cooler for a HE cooler! I'm surprised it didn't break when you bent it! Eager to see your next progress video!!
Add an active cooler using a fairly large wattage thermoelectric device with a cold finger to cool the incoming TPU to stiffen it prior to it entering your extruder. It's mandatory to add more RGB LEDs on the TEC hot side fan though 😉
My Man, you have a great channel! I watch all these "channels" but this one I get excited for! With you, I see completely original concepts and ideas executed. That extruder assembly literally got me excited. I don't mean like that, lol. I want to build one like right now!!!
Another amazing creation! I love your content, and your filming format is the best I've seen in the 3d printing content world. As always, I can't wait for the next video!!
A few things. Heat pipes require a certain heat load to reach their max efficiency, You can also buy them online so you don’t have to worry about work hardening as much as a pre-bent pipe. Regardless, amazing work like always.
You're right and I want to design my own heat block and use individual heat pipes. The temperature range depends on the fluid that's being used. Methanol, ethanol or water is within the temperature range of this use case and I assumed that it must have been one of these fluids. No idea how efficient they are at which temperature though.
Yeah I think I saw Conrad Elektronik here in Germany (active EU wide) sell individual unbent heat pipes not at all too expensively in any number of sizes, already 20 years ago. I had some thoughts and plans but never got around to make a custom heatsink.
@@mtmtrx I haven't tested it, but from what I've heard this is too much hassle with almost no benefit. I was thinking about doing that, but ditched the plan.
Brilliant idea again! Soon it'll become industrial. Adding heatpipes even spares some metall mass on hotend radiator because it cools much stronger on the place needed instead of cooling a 5-7cm radiator pipe. Besides getting the radiator out of the main heating zone gets it cooler and simplifies the setup.
I really like this extruder and what you are doing. I cant wait to purchase the exteuder kit, receive it, assemble it and mount it on my DIY 3D printer. 😊
1:58.. annoyed that it didn’t break😂..That’s just One Of Many Folks. The Subtext..The Symbolism…The Dark(and bright) comedy.. The Washing Machine commercial.. The subtle genius of this channel Never Fails to Bring a Smile!… A pretty big one. I pulled out the piped/Copper Heatsink and Fans from my old laptop and thought of doing the the same!.. (6months Later, still in my box)😂 RAD🤙🏻
Simple and effective, I wonder how this concept will develop. I'm really liking the direction you're going with this design. This new iteration of the extruder looks good, happy to see those flanged nuts worked out :)
2:10 Heatpipes aren't easly refillable, they have like low pressure to lower the boliling point of the fluid inside, so you need to either fill it and seal it in a vacuum or with the tube really with the boiling liquid inside (and in the second case it will not perform good like the vacuum one)
This is true of water heatpipe where the boiling point is brought down to near room temperature by partial vacuum. This is also the fundamentally best fluid to be used in a heatpipe. But also you could conceivably give it some other fluid with an inherently low boiling point instead and seal it right with air. The ammonia solution sure seems usable with 38°C boiling point, if it also sticks to the walls and doesn't damage them.
Yeah no ammonia won't work, it reacts with copper. Methanol is not something you can seal easily, it will just explode on you. Acetone too. The last thing I can think of is diabolical but well. Dichlormethane. It might burn almost every polymer and your flesh to the bone and your gloves but it has a low boiling point and it won't catch fire, you can seal it safely in a heatpipe by soldering it shut. In Europe you can buy pure dichlormethane from Modulor Berlin, but since it's a restricted chemical you have to submit a written signed note detailing why you need it.
The failure of the flex attempt may be related to the upper filament path. Since the friction of the flex material is very low, it should not get stuck anywhere, so even the positioning of the filament above might be good improvement.
Aren't the regular heaters ceramic? I like this ring heater because it heats up fast and is very easy to work with. I also think that thermal runaway is best to be solved in software. This sounds counter intuitive, but if you have a heater that can reach 400+ degrees, it'll reach that. But with software you can act faster while reaching the temperatures you need.
Interesting idea. You could also get heat pipes that are by themselves and attach them directly to the heat break. I suspect that might cause more clogs though.
You're a genius man... That thing is a work of art and it works pretty damn well! Brilliant video too, as in quality. Can't wait to see how it turns out. A few well placed LEDs would make that thing shine! 🔆 👍👍
I know that TPU loves to be printed way slower than you would think... That's all it could be. It doesn't melt as fast as other materials, so that's why the slowness is needed. It's not about the extruder not pushing it hard enough. It's about the hotend turning it into liquid fast enough. If you go hotter, it might burn. But you can do testing in both ways.
I had talked with my coworkers about this concept, glad to see it tried out. I'm thinking that if you punctured the heat pipes when tapping the M4 hole, that their effectiveness would be greatly reduced. Would also be cool to have a thermocouple on the heat break to see the exact temp it was reaching and compare it to the stock setup.
Love the videos and good ideas. You should try one with flexible hose for the water cooler and a really bit heat sink and fan mounted to the printer frame. Less weight on the extruder and even better cooling. As long as you don't crimp the hose at least
I think the skipping was because the tpu is too grippy and it's sticking somewhere above the extruder belts causing it to pull and stretch the filament then skip. It should help to reduce friction above the extruder belts
Great ideas and exploration as always! If I can offer some constructive feedback, there were some moments in the video where the music was a bit too loud in the mix and made it harder to follow what you were saying.
RGB is an excellent choice. It adds horsepower, increases FPS and LPM (Layers per minute). Science :P Another fun video. Love your extruder development.
That assembled acrylic sure looks sexy. One easy thing to tweak; those free hanging copper pipes look cool but unless that heat sink is bolted onto something they are going to result in some low-ass resonant frequencies ringing all over your part.
That's one of the most gamer hot end extruder setup ever
Dude, your projects are next level!! 🤘😎🤘
Can't wait to see what's coming.. 👀
Thanks Adrian!
Not only looks the cut parts very good...the clockwork looks equally impressive!
Thanks!
The very idea that you can make that extruder with so many parts, make it look so easy and make it without any instructions too is absolutely insanely ridiculous dude!
10/10 drilling a hole B roll. You got yourself a new subscriber.
Having an existential crisis when you realize the engineering challenge you set out for yourself was actually easy is a crazy problem to have lol.
I've been there it's the weirdest feeling.
It's like cheating yourself
The heat pipes are most likely filled with water (and sometimes with methanol). Definitely not ammonia, as it is used for lower temperatures and, most importantly, it's incompatible with copper, it will eat through the metal (I've tried that, but not with a heat pipe). What you bought is a solution of ammonia in water, which is of no use in a heat pipe (pure ammonia is required). You can put a piece of copper in that ammonia solution, it will turn a beautiful blue colour and the metal will dissolve after a couple of days. Both, pure and dissolved ammonia are corrosive towards copper.
If you broke the heat pipe, you wouldn't be able to repair it easily. They contain a very small amount of liquid, and the remaining volume is filled with the liquid's vapour. There is no air inside, and that makes the repair process difficult. Due to the lack of air "ballast", the pressure inside a heat pipe at room temperature is close to vacuum (actually equal to the vapour pressure of the liquid).
If you could keep one end of the tube at low enough temperature, you should be able to anneal the another part of the tube safely, provided that you will not damage anything else by the application of heat. However, keeping one end of a such short tube cool may prove difficult, first - due to the high thermal conductivity of copper, and second - due to the heat pipe action, as it will still work, albeit to a much lesser degree than in its intended operating conditions.
Thanks for the info! Shame that I never got to that point of finding that out by trial and error.
As if this is the only one you're gonna build lol@@properprinting
@shogoonn I need to repair my fridge in the Winnie that lost the containment, it is ammonia and hydrogen gas. Do you have any resources that can help me find a diy for this?
It seems to be a state secret. :)
Does it mean that the liquid in the tubes can be replaced with liquid with higher boiling temperature? And high stability and safety over 200C liquid? Like white spirit solvent or ethylene glycol
@@ИванЮрченко-ф2з
Water will do fine at 200°C, the heat pipe will run at a pressure higher than atmospheric. That's not a problem for small diameter tubes. I have some water filled heat pipes from Quick-Cool with working range from 5°C to 250°C.
Otherwise, yes, you can have heat pipes with other liquids, including liquid metals.
Filling a heat pipe is a complicated operation. It requires a filling station with a vacuum pump, liquid metering equipment, some valves and the ability to close to heat pipe after filling.
First you have to pump out everything from the heat pipe, and heat it to a higher temperature to remove any residues adsorbed on the surface, and then you close the vacuum and open the metering vessel, (a small one) which transfers the precise amount of liquid to the tube, and then you close the tube (pinch and weld). There are other methods of filling, but this one is AFAIK the most common one at the factories.
You could fill a heat pipe at home, which I've done successfully, by partially filling it with the working liquid, heating it until the liquid boils, and then pinching at the top, when enough liquid was removed (that's the difficult part - knowing how much is left), and then welding. The vapours of the boiling liquid will displace the air from the heat pipe. Instead, if you have a vacuum pump, you can add a slight excess of a liquid to the heat pipe and then vacuum it and seal it.
Just FYI the amount of fluid in a heat pipe is tiny. Very little in there, and its usually under a low atmospheric pressure. It is almost always water as well.
Good to know! I was hoping to get that on camera that nothing was coming out, but it just worked xD
I wonder if Delrin sheet might work better due to the built in lubricity? Always love the ideas you bring, keep it coming!
I already bought Delrin sheets because of that! I want to combine it with carbon fiber parts for stiffness. I reckon that this will look very techy!
I cannot wait to see how that looks! @@properprinting
@@properprinting mmmmmh carbon fiiiiibreeeeeee
Going to laser cut already cured carbon fiber sheets? That would be siiick. Such a good visual effect and so sturdy.
@@properprintingque pena não ter funcionado no filamento flexível! Projeto maravilhoso parabéns! Aqui falo do Rio de Janeiro!
brother, I know I always repeat myself, but i am a proper fan big time !! Sick video again. Your movie making skill always impresses me. Keep being awesome and making stuff.
Thank you Simon!
It's always a good day if a Proper Printing video comes out. Enjoyed it, thanks!
yes this
Have to say, that flexible filament is super extreme for any extruder. Great stuff!
You deserve a lot more subscribers. Thanks for the work four years ago on improving the ender with belt driven dual lead screw. Very educational.
That whole assembly looks like it was designed by an extraterrestrial civilization 1000 years ahead of us, or an extremely capable Dutchman.
I had this idea two years back, I even purchased cooling tubes! ready-to-use cooler..... respect on this!!!!
I love this kind of engineering development. Great work and keep us up to date with your progress.
Very inspiring!
Thank you!
You are one of the most AWESOME creators! I love your innovations and we need MORE of this in 3dprinting. Keep doing what you do!
Dit is echt supervet, blijf alsjeblieft zo doorgaan met zulke geweldige ideeën vezinnen en er goede video’s over maken!
This is a really awesome video. I'm always excited to see your latest work pop up. Few issues means you might even be getting good at this. ;)
Man, you are doing brilliant. Its realy inspiring to see the progress on turning a cool and realistic idea into a real product. Thanks for your great contents.
Sick as usual! Very cool concept to take a CPU cooler for a HE cooler! I'm surprised it didn't break when you bent it! Eager to see your next progress video!!
Clicked for the craziness, stayed for the insanely good production quality.
Add an active cooler using a fairly large wattage thermoelectric device with a cold finger to cool the incoming TPU to stiffen it prior to it entering your extruder. It's mandatory to add more RGB LEDs on the TEC hot side fan though 😉
THIS is what I call functional art. Love all of it!
i love seeing the components scaled back up into something more mechanical looking.
Frickin' awesome, as always! I love seeing the iterations you are going through and am quite impressed.
The editing on your videos is perfect.
My Man, you have a great channel! I watch all these "channels" but this one I get excited for! With you, I see completely original concepts and ideas executed. That extruder assembly literally got me excited. I don't mean like that, lol. I want to build one like right now!!!
Fantastic stuff, Jon. I really love watching you tinker and develop; you think of stuff no one else does!
GZ on this working Extruder!
Cool idea with CPU Fan!
Man, I love watching each and every video you make. This project was so fun to see!
I love seeing what new crazy ideas come out of your head. Your videos are always entertaining.
Yay cool printer things!!
Another amazing creation! I love your content, and your filming format is the best I've seen in the 3d printing content world. As always, I can't wait for the next video!!
That acrylic extruder looks soooooo good. I need one
I have never seen such a beautiful hotend!
A few things. Heat pipes require a certain heat load to reach their max efficiency, You can also buy them online so you don’t have to worry about work hardening as much as a pre-bent pipe.
Regardless, amazing work like always.
You're right and I want to design my own heat block and use individual heat pipes. The temperature range depends on the fluid that's being used. Methanol, ethanol or water is within the temperature range of this use case and I assumed that it must have been one of these fluids. No idea how efficient they are at which temperature though.
@@properprinting i love it =D you might try some thermalpaste in the thread its messy but should improve thermal cunduction
Yeah I think I saw Conrad Elektronik here in Germany (active EU wide) sell individual unbent heat pipes not at all too expensively in any number of sizes, already 20 years ago. I had some thoughts and plans but never got around to make a custom heatsink.
@@properprintingCould it work with peltier?
@@mtmtrx I haven't tested it, but from what I've heard this is too much hassle with almost no benefit. I was thinking about doing that, but ditched the plan.
beautiful design, and excellent videos. By the way, drilling and tapping a hole in a badass edit is always fun to watch lol
Congrats! 🎉 I love the extruder. Also your face expression when things actually work the first time... 😂
Looks absolutely stunning.
That is one insanely beautiful extruder/hotend! 😍
Another great video! I always enjoy watching you try ideas that are different than anything else out there. Keep them coming!!
Insanely awesome stuff - that content is art !
Thanks Albert!
Brilliant idea again! Soon it'll become industrial. Adding heatpipes even spares some metall mass on hotend radiator because it cools much stronger on the place needed instead of cooling a 5-7cm radiator pipe. Besides getting the radiator out of the main heating zone gets it cooler and simplifies the setup.
I see that block becoming quite popular 👀👀👀👀👀👀👀👀
That clear extruder is pure fire
This is a work of art! It looks beautiful
That black light was a nice touch.
Very cool! Love the design, great job - looking forward to seeing the final product!
You are a breathe of fresh air. Always really cool seeing your vids
I really like this extruder and what you are doing.
I cant wait to purchase the exteuder kit, receive it, assemble it and mount it on my DIY 3D printer. 😊
Oh this looks cool
1:58.. annoyed that it didn’t break😂..That’s just One Of Many Folks.
The Subtext..The Symbolism…The Dark(and bright) comedy.. The Washing Machine commercial..
The subtle genius of this channel Never Fails to Bring a Smile!… A pretty big one.
I pulled out the piped/Copper Heatsink and Fans from my old laptop and thought of doing the the same!.. (6months Later, still in my box)😂
RAD🤙🏻
Simple and effective, I wonder how this concept will develop. I'm really liking the direction you're going with this design. This new iteration of the extruder looks good, happy to see those flanged nuts worked out :)
These flanged nuts are a life saver! I'm also using them now in 3D printed parts. Thanks!
Outside the box engineering! I love it🤘
Thank you for producing a great video. Open box ideas.
without watching the video i know its epic already 😊
Nou godverdomme dat is hartstikke gaaf. Gefeliciteerd kerel met deze unieke hotend😍📶💪
2:10 Heatpipes aren't easly refillable, they have like low pressure to lower the boliling point of the fluid inside, so you need to either fill it and seal it in a vacuum or with the tube really with the boiling liquid inside (and in the second case it will not perform good like the vacuum one)
This is true of water heatpipe where the boiling point is brought down to near room temperature by partial vacuum. This is also the fundamentally best fluid to be used in a heatpipe. But also you could conceivably give it some other fluid with an inherently low boiling point instead and seal it right with air. The ammonia solution sure seems usable with 38°C boiling point, if it also sticks to the walls and doesn't damage them.
Yeah no ammonia won't work, it reacts with copper.
Methanol is not something you can seal easily, it will just explode on you. Acetone too.
The last thing I can think of is diabolical but well. Dichlormethane. It might burn almost every polymer and your flesh to the bone and your gloves but it has a low boiling point and it won't catch fire, you can seal it safely in a heatpipe by soldering it shut.
In Europe you can buy pure dichlormethane from Modulor Berlin, but since it's a restricted chemical you have to submit a written signed note detailing why you need it.
Keep thinking outside of the box just the way you do. Great video!
8:07 "This is a weird video." LMAO! Nice when something actually works. I hope you find a new challenge soon. Love the videos.
Amazing projects every time 🎉 I hope to see you do more testing with it. Looks great 👍
Pymp mah Printer!
Sweet! And it printed 1st try without all the problems! Great job!
Keep em coming!!!!
It did and I definitely didn't expect that, thanks!
Great video , as always.
The failure of the flex attempt may be related to the upper filament path. Since the friction of the flex material is very low, it should not get stuck anywhere, so even the positioning of the filament above might be good improvement.
wow this is a work of art!!!!!
Simple but novel idea. Your videos are always amazing. By far the best 3D printing channel.
The extruder is a work of art :)
Love it. But heads up, at 10:04 you can see the extruder wobbeling around, something is loose
Well noticed. It's not loose, but the acrylic plate is too flimsy, the way it's mounted now. This is one of the things that needs improvement!
Ahh, makes sense! Thank you for clarifying! I can't wait to for the next video :D
Keep up the awesome(!) work
That extruder is a brilliant mechanical thing of complex *beauty.
*NOW with extra RGB 🙂 !
Looks stunning!
2:36 why didn't you use the other side of the calipers? The ones meant for finding inside diameters
Because this was easier to show on camera and was just to make the point. Not to do the actual measurement.
@@properprinting that makes sense 👌
Wat een idee om het op deze manier te doen, gaaf ook dat het gewoon werkt , mooi project en leuke video
3D Printed inner tube when? ;)
what is in it is a miniscule amount of water in a near vacuum to aid in evaporation
This is work of art 🎇
Would you consider using a ceramic heater element? They have intrinsic protection for thermal runaway.
Aren't the regular heaters ceramic? I like this ring heater because it heats up fast and is very easy to work with. I also think that thermal runaway is best to be solved in software. This sounds counter intuitive, but if you have a heater that can reach 400+ degrees, it'll reach that. But with software you can act faster while reaching the temperatures you need.
You are awesome, very nice extruder 😮
Very revealing. Very honest. Thank you.
damn thats fantastic, looks nice too!
Je creativiteit blijft me verbazen. Lekker bezig!
Interesting idea. You could also get heat pipes that are by themselves and attach them directly to the heat break. I suspect that might cause more clogs though.
I wanted to see the volumetric speed it was capable of 😢
You're a genius man... That thing is a work of art and it works pretty damn well! Brilliant video too, as in quality. Can't wait to see how it turns out.
A few well placed LEDs would make that thing shine! 🔆 👍👍
2023 UA-cam is becoming good again. The fact that this video was recommended to me is awesome Finding lots of cool channels recently. Great video!
Nice to know that it showed in your recommended feed. Thanks!
Leuk project man!
I know that TPU loves to be printed way slower than you would think... That's all it could be. It doesn't melt as fast as other materials, so that's why the slowness is needed. It's not about the extruder not pushing it hard enough. It's about the hotend turning it into liquid fast enough. If you go hotter, it might burn. But you can do testing in both ways.
I had talked with my coworkers about this concept, glad to see it tried out. I'm thinking that if you punctured the heat pipes when tapping the M4 hole, that their effectiveness would be greatly reduced. Would also be cool to have a thermocouple on the heat break to see the exact temp it was reaching and compare it to the stock setup.
12:30 Can the filament be cool with a Peltier element to stiffen the filament?
Neat! Looks heavy!
Wait I love it. Really good and cheap DIY heat sink. Revo hotends go for like $100+ and you made one for less then half that
And it's also not that hard to make one!
That hot end is work of art! One might even as its a cool end. Iykyk😂
Love the videos and good ideas. You should try one with flexible hose for the water cooler and a really bit heat sink and fan mounted to the printer frame. Less weight on the extruder and even better cooling. As long as you don't crimp the hose at least
I think the skipping was because the tpu is too grippy and it's sticking somewhere above the extruder belts causing it to pull and stretch the filament then skip. It should help to reduce friction above the extruder belts
It was buckling and I think that this was due to the square hole. Once the filament starts buckling, and with 60A this will happen fast, you're done.
You never fail to amaze me!
Great ideas and exploration as always! If I can offer some constructive feedback, there were some moments in the video where the music was a bit too loud in the mix and made it harder to follow what you were saying.
RGB is an excellent choice.
It adds horsepower, increases FPS and LPM (Layers per minute).
Science :P
Another fun video. Love your extruder development.
It's beautiful! Take my money!
That assembled acrylic sure looks sexy. One easy thing to tweak; those free hanging copper pipes look cool but unless that heat sink is bolted onto something they are going to result in some low-ass resonant frequencies ringing all over your part.