I own one its a great printer.....really good prints and the sided enclosure stays warm and is great at preventing draughts warping prints. Regarding bed level i've only done it once in quite a few prints...checked a few times and its still holding the correct distance.
I have had a D1 for a month. I also have an Ender3 v2. The Ender3 bed stays level no mater how hard you work to release a print( put 2 z motors on for a day). I am like you and every time I touch the bed I must level it again. The Ender3 with 2 z steppers acted the same way. I got tired of the doors not folding parallel to the front of the machine. I moved the hinge mounting holes 5.5mm forward. (5mm would be enough) Spaced the run out assembly to the center of the spool. Installed a bearing spool holder. Removed the grooved bearings and mount. Installed a swivel base and an 1 1/2 " pulley with a removable engagement pin on top. Fabricated 2 each 1 inch long clips with bearings installed that clamp over the extruder cable shield. Installed a pivot block on top of the clips. The hole in the block was a tight fit for a 10" long white ptfe tube. I wish software was available for BL Touch. I don't know if there is enough room to put dual shaft steppers on the z axis. WISH they would put a 2 shafted stepper on the extruder so Eneder3 wheel would fit. Top enclosure is in the works
Somthing interesting you didnt notice is that the board is basically just an ender 3 32 bot board with a connector solderes in the place of the sd slot and a usb extension ran to the board. I just unplugged the extention for the usb and plugged my pi into the board
This just feels like a printer designed by someone who knows that sometimes 3d printers are enclosed, but they haven't the faintest idea why. It's pure cargo-cult thinking in printer design.
Yeah the sermoon D1 pro is due out next week I believe. I went with Creality CR-200B over this originally as it fully enclosed and I have two of them now and there work horses for me
After a few Aliexpress upgrades (better nozzle, belt springs, thread in thermistor, and tubed support for filament) ive been loving this printer and its very reliable. For the Y screw issue created a gauge tube that fits over the screws to alert me to it offsetting. Really great prints. But looking forward to the D3.
@@xwojtassx Yes on the triangle store on Ali express, instead of just floating around in thermal paste it screws in. The thermistor is in a brass tip with threads.
Great video and interesting to see which issues you encountered. I am still trying to get the machine to print consistently since my livestream a few months ago. After replacing the z-stop limit switch, which arrived crushed, I have been experiencing seemingly random x-y layer shift, which makes printing anything with the machine very risky. It’s a shame because I’ve found that my unit actually prints quite well. Currently waiting on a replacement board and hoping that fixes the issue. Will also switch to Prusa slicer - I am a bit disappointed that they did not supply a usable Cura profile with the machine, since this is clearly what Creality Slicer is based on.
I can see 1 thing about the lead screws that is an issue. They appear to have a 20mm lead, which means when power is not applied to the stepper motors, they will not hold their position. This was also an issue with the early Ender 5 models, which were later replaced with 8mm leads. It shouldn’t take very much downward force to make the bed lower, and will definitely cause tramming issues.
Great video! Not really looked into this printer much, so was interesting to hear what you thought about it. Reminds me a little bit of Flashforge machines, which isnt a bad thing if they had gotten it right. If your planning on keeping this printer long term, look into installing a bltouch and using G34 to correct your bed leveling issues automatically.
I think I see 3 reasons for the bearing filament thingy. 1, keep filament from rubbing on the side and guide it's path. 2, absorb most retraction movement so it doesn't make it back to the spool to cause any issues there. And 3, same as 2 but to avoid filament reverse travel inside the runout sensor. Creality usually just use a basic levered microswitch, and that sensor looks identical to the one on the CR-10S and onwards. So there's no roller/wheel on the tip of the microswitch lever - only a thin flat steel lever arm. And this lever arm had been known to snag on the filament if retracted or ejected, bending the lever and breaking the microswitch. Anyways - i think it's an interesting idea. Everyone has been complaining for a long time now, that every FDM printer coming out is just another Ender 3, CR10 or Prusa i3 clone, that no manufacturers try anything new. So I find it odd that here, we're seemingly poopooing on this for actually trying some new things, and complaining about how some elements are different from those cloned-to-death printers.
I Agree. Your "3 reasons" seem to corroborate the use of the bearing filament (I am a Physics specialist). How many times, the retraction and the head displacement of the printer caused the filament to become loose on the spool and thus made problems ? It is really annoying and time consuming. Personally I have a machine that I had to attach a pulley to the filament to obtain some permanent consistent tension when retracting or head movement.
Why do so many printers with dual Z leadscrews use two independent motors to drive them? Sure, stepper motors are *reasonably* good at keeping synchronized when they're actively being driven (and the drivers and code running on them are reliable!), but the height of those two leadscrews *must* remain timed together *at all times* - whether the motors are moving, stopped, or the whole printer is powered off, because dual-Z leadscrews are uniquely capable of literally breaking themselves if they're driven out of time. It's a shame that stepper motors are literally cheaper than a timing belt and pulley, but that's the world we live in.
Dual motors would be ok if they had separate drivers. The firmware could actively re-synchronize them using the bed level sensor. The Voron 2.4 does this with four Z motors and it works great
An anti backlash nut on the lead screws may make a difference. I am not an expert but voltage issues with that one stepper, or that one stepper getting momentarily de-energized out of sequence at the end of the print may be a culprit. It looks like there is adequate space below the heated bed to install a z-sync upgrade where you connect the two lead screws with a belt.
The Ender 5 Plus also drops on one side when the steppers are powered down, I have to re calibrate them every other print, I have been told on the FB group that POM anti backlash nuts fix this issue and I will order some to see if they do fix the issue, of course it may be possible to keep just the steppers powered up constantly so they dont drop
I saw this printer on their site a few months ago and my first thought was “why no top enclosure?”. Once you worked out all the bugs, it’s clear these is yet another B+ machine from creality. I do appreciate them trying new things like this and the CR30. Hope they do IDEX in 2022
I've not had to level the bed on my Sermoon D1 more than once every 20+ prints so maybe you janked it up when you assembled it incorrectly. Although it doesn't get super hot in the enclosure I have noticed that in a cold room the interior is still nicely warm which I think helps with warping as I've not had any where I did on my Ender 3. I think I paid £415.
Quality of prints is amazing but for month now I’m strugling with partial clogs and clicking extruder gear feeding filament. Changed everything- nozzle 2 times, bowden tube for capricorn inside heatbreak 3 times, stepper motor to make sure it is not broken, modified cooling fans to make better cooling of radiator inside. Only slowing prints to 30-40mms give better results but still clicking occurs. Using 1,3mm retraction and 200C for Silk PLA. For me it looks like heatbreak melts filament inside before nozzle which causes partial clogs.
Creality just makes sloppy products unfortunately. I only have creality but it's not a good experience. I will not buy creality again. Their products are not mature, tested, they are shipped with all kind of defects, beds are wrapped, roller have cracks etc. And that would be ok-ish if they were a small starting company but come one!!!! This is just disrespectful. In future years other companies will take big chunks of their market and they will wake up eventually but who cares. Question, besides Prusa, what other companies have decent products and prices and a big enough clients knowledge-base for sharing ideas in case of issues? Thank you for the video 😊
I wanted to love my Ender 5 Plus but Creality puts out semi finished products that after some major upgrades results in a somewhat decent printer that still needs more upgrades. Direct drive, automatic bed leveling and a full enclosure aren’t asking for much. 😕
Yeah, I didnt want to get into the meat of it on stream especially since I put so much time into sort of breaking it apart in this video. Well I do have some through UA-cam that should be displayed below the video but I would like to look into other options. I would love a nice hoodie\sweater. I really like sweaters without hoods and it would be awesome to find somewhere that can just have the small robot but instead of printed on the sweater have it as sort of a patch\embroidered. I also had a cool idea for a summer line with the robot wearing sunglasses laying back on a spool. I actually played around with sketching it and was not happy with it. I may need to commission that. Lol I just realized I ranted. My answer is I am not sure but I have ideas and it is on one of my lists 😂
That's a bummer, the printer sounds like a 90% finished idea. Absolutely agree the filament patch should have had a PTFE tube to help constrain / protect it. When you were poking around in the guts of the printer it looked like the USB port was just a panel mount style USB extension cable which would make it super easy to just unplug the extension cable if you wanted to stuff a raspberry pi inside it.
I'm waiting for a printer that produces a extremely smooth bottom, top, side , & top layers without having not to go into the G code or printer settings. The filament rollers should be in a position to feed the extruder & straighten out the filament.
I think the biggest drawback on this model is the lack of support to 300degC (to allow printing nylon etc.). I wonder if there is an upgrade anywhere to replace the PTFE-lined heat break with a titanium one? that way this machine would really be my perfect choice....
So if I can purchase this printer for $380.00 brand new would you think that's a good deal? It is being discontinued so I wonder if they are coming out with a new one . SO WOULD YOU BUY IT FOR $380.00 OFF AMAZON?
I don't have a Sermoon D1, but I do have a dual lead screw printer that had a huge problem with the sagging bed on one side. The best fix is to update the firmware and enable the Z Stepper Auto Alignment feature in Marlin and run a G34 every time you print. For me, I had to install a new mainboard, but I don't think that would be necessary with the Sermoon D1.
The more I hear about Creality and their mistakes or "sloppiness" in their design process and the designs themselves, the more I think they're trying to frequently push something new to generate revenue and not a great different product from others designs
That’s the way of a lot of Chinese companies unfortunately. They only see dollar signs. That’s why I’ve become a huge fan of Prusa over the years, since they are one of the few companies out there that strives to have the best customer support, quality assurance, printer features, printer reliability, print quality, and gummy bears.
I have a couple ender 5 ... They are amazing machines........ After completely replacing the entire hot end and all electronics... 🤣 I can't recommend creality, at every step they're designs are inferior to modern designs.
do you think a Z-rod belt sync could be implemented DIY ? Or maybe just needs tighter nuts? On thingiverse I've seen a linear rail mod but the guy said the bed can still fall out of level occasionally.
what 3D printer prints the strongest? I'm not talking about filaments I want to know which "3D PRINTER" is capable of printing with the strongest bond. I already know which filaments are the strongest.
The no top enclosure reminds me very much of the ultimaker printers. I am continuously baffled by that weird design choice, by ultimaker but now also creality. What is the point of even including doors, if you are not going to enclose the most important side of all?
Anti-Backlash Spring Loaded Nut and a Capricorn blue ptfe tube if they had just installed these two things and autobedlevel then it would have been a little more interesting, thought it was a lot of money for it and so not much new about the machine, it is more a fusion of different printers they have made 🙂
A lot of these things aren't oversights, they're intentional design choices. Like the "incomplete enclosure" - it's not meant to be a full enclosure. It's for noise. That's what the back is open too, this is more of a noise focused printer. The bed issue aside (that is surely a QC issue, they need to take that one to heart), it seems like a decent printer. What's wrong with it IMO is the price. This is a $450 printer. Maybe a $500 in a pinch, but that's knocking on the door of the Ender 6. Not a $639 printer - that's far too close to an Ender 7 while not delivering thst much more than a CR-10S. Expecting a full, proper enclosed 280x250x310 direct drive corexy'esque printer for ~$600 is not at all realistic these days. Almost half the pricetag is shipping as it is. For what you appear to be seeking, there's the Sermoon V1 (pro).
Dang, saw some open box of these for $375 at Micro Center.. but this review makes me wonder 🤔 then i would also still have to convert it to all metal hotend, build a proper cooling duct, etc If im not able to adjust the hotend to over 260c and hold stable that'll be a deal breaker
@@johnn73 i dragged my feet on it.. I Literally got one two days ago for $275 open box, completely untouched. I'm currently making some redesigns to the floating lead screws for the bed and hot end and will probably link both with a belt as there's enough room to add one. Converted the original throat to hight adjustable so you can snug it right up to the extruder gears, all those extra Dremel attachments finally came in handy lol. Then using a all metal throat to come in the bottom like normal as the original throat will be raised (and shortened to have it fit flush).
@@MrHeHim that's awesome! Il check it out. I'm building it now to see if it was worth the purchase or not. I see it's being discontinued so I purchased the warranty thru micro center so if I can't get parts for it they said they would just give me credit towards a new printer if that time ever comes
@@johnn73 last three printer I bought was a PowerSpec Duplicator i3 for $100 at Micro Center, that needed far more upgrades/redesigns to get it working like a champ
X and Y gantry together with direct drive is the only reasonable combination, mechanically wise. Where are the "Strange Design Choices"? Also 2:10, "Without further adue" and "right into todays video" seems really ironic after two and a half minutes of babbeling, followed directly by advertisement.
For the price, this printer is total garbage, I nearly purchased one until I seen it wasn’t fully enclosed, for this price I expect the printer be able to print high temp materials life PA-CF and PC, instead I went for a Qidi-Tech which can print pretty much anything out of the box, its also not perfect, but is much better value for the money versus this thing.
Great review as always. This machine seems to be pretty half-assed in my opinion, or if I’m being completely honest, a total piece of shit. Especially for $600. Oh hell no. Few good features thrown in here and there like the semi enclosure, great frame, and the okay direct drive extruder, but then there’s a load of tacky mickey-mouse shit like that strange filament path and control panel placement on the inside. I learned to expect that from Creality.
![АЛАУДИНОВ у Скабеевой: эти их ВСУ нас НЕ ДОГОНЯТ 😁 [Пародия]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/an0anqU4WGQ/mqdefault.jpg)
I own one its a great printer.....really good prints and the sided enclosure stays warm and is great at preventing draughts warping prints. Regarding bed level i've only done it once in quite a few prints...checked a few times and its still holding the correct distance.
Nice to hear that from a real private user. I am getting one soon :)
@@thewellbeingc9258 hey , how is it goin with u im thinking of getting one , would you recommend it xD, thanks
@@mnr3d I am getting beautiful results, really. Silent machine and the finishing is very clean.
@@thewellbeingc9258 appreciate the reply , best of luck with it :)
I have had a D1 for a month. I also have an Ender3 v2. The Ender3 bed stays level no mater how hard you work to release a print( put 2 z motors on for a day). I am like you and every time I touch the bed I must level it again. The Ender3 with 2 z steppers acted the same way. I got tired of the doors not folding parallel to the front of the machine.
I moved the hinge mounting holes 5.5mm forward. (5mm would be enough) Spaced the run out assembly to the center of the spool. Installed a bearing spool holder. Removed the grooved bearings and mount. Installed a swivel base and an 1 1/2 " pulley with a removable engagement pin on top. Fabricated 2 each 1 inch long clips with bearings installed that clamp over the extruder cable shield. Installed a pivot block on top of the clips. The hole in the block was a tight fit for a 10" long white ptfe tube.
I wish software was available for BL Touch. I don't know if there is enough room to put dual shaft steppers on the z axis.
WISH they would put a 2 shafted stepper on the extruder so Eneder3 wheel would fit.
Top enclosure is in the works
Somthing interesting you didnt notice is that the board is basically just an ender 3 32 bot board with a connector solderes in the place of the sd slot and a usb extension ran to the board. I just unplugged the extention for the usb and plugged my pi into the board
This just feels like a printer designed by someone who knows that sometimes 3d printers are enclosed, but they haven't the faintest idea why. It's pure cargo-cult thinking in printer design.
Yeah the sermoon D1 pro is due out next week I believe. I went with Creality CR-200B over this originally as it fully enclosed and I have two of them now and there work horses for me
After a few Aliexpress upgrades (better nozzle, belt springs, thread in thermistor, and tubed support for filament) ive been loving this printer and its very reliable. For the Y screw issue created a gauge tube that fits over the screws to alert me to it offsetting. Really great prints. But looking forward to the D3.
Thread in termistor?
@@xwojtassx Yes on the triangle store on Ali express, instead of just floating around in thermal paste it screws in. The thermistor is in a brass tip with threads.
Great video and interesting to see which issues you encountered. I am still trying to get the machine to print consistently since my livestream a few months ago. After replacing the z-stop limit switch, which arrived crushed, I have been experiencing seemingly random x-y layer shift, which makes printing anything with the machine very risky. It’s a shame because I’ve found that my unit actually prints quite well. Currently waiting on a replacement board and hoping that fixes the issue. Will also switch to Prusa slicer - I am a bit disappointed that they did not supply a usable Cura profile with the machine, since this is clearly what Creality Slicer is based on.
I can see 1 thing about the lead screws that is an issue. They appear to have a 20mm lead, which means when power is not applied to the stepper motors, they will not hold their position. This was also an issue with the early Ender 5 models, which were later replaced with 8mm leads. It shouldn’t take very much downward force to make the bed lower, and will definitely cause tramming issues.
Great video! Not really looked into this printer much, so was interesting to hear what you thought about it. Reminds me a little bit of Flashforge machines, which isnt a bad thing if they had gotten it right.
If your planning on keeping this printer long term, look into installing a bltouch and using G34 to correct your bed leveling issues automatically.
I think I see 3 reasons for the bearing filament thingy. 1, keep filament from rubbing on the side and guide it's path. 2, absorb most retraction movement so it doesn't make it back to the spool to cause any issues there. And 3, same as 2 but to avoid filament reverse travel inside the runout sensor. Creality usually just use a basic levered microswitch, and that sensor looks identical to the one on the CR-10S and onwards. So there's no roller/wheel on the tip of the microswitch lever - only a thin flat steel lever arm. And this lever arm had been known to snag on the filament if retracted or ejected, bending the lever and breaking the microswitch.
Anyways - i think it's an interesting idea. Everyone has been complaining for a long time now, that every FDM printer coming out is just another Ender 3, CR10 or Prusa i3 clone, that no manufacturers try anything new. So I find it odd that here, we're seemingly poopooing on this for actually trying some new things, and complaining about how some elements are different from those cloned-to-death printers.
I Agree. Your "3 reasons" seem to corroborate the use of the bearing filament (I am a Physics specialist). How many times, the retraction and the head displacement of the printer caused the filament to become loose on the spool and thus made problems ? It is really annoying and time consuming. Personally I have a machine that I had to attach a pulley to the filament to obtain some permanent consistent tension when retracting or head movement.
Great points
Great review
Thanks for sharing :-)
Why do so many printers with dual Z leadscrews use two independent motors to drive them? Sure, stepper motors are *reasonably* good at keeping synchronized when they're actively being driven (and the drivers and code running on them are reliable!), but the height of those two leadscrews *must* remain timed together *at all times* - whether the motors are moving, stopped, or the whole printer is powered off, because dual-Z leadscrews are uniquely capable of literally breaking themselves if they're driven out of time. It's a shame that stepper motors are literally cheaper than a timing belt and pulley, but that's the world we live in.
Dual motors would be ok if they had separate drivers. The firmware could actively re-synchronize them using the bed level sensor. The Voron 2.4 does this with four Z motors and it works great
An anti backlash nut on the lead screws may make a difference. I am not an expert but voltage issues with that one stepper, or that one stepper getting momentarily de-energized out of sequence at the end of the print may be a culprit. It looks like there is adequate space below the heated bed to install a z-sync upgrade where you connect the two lead screws with a belt.
The Ender 5 Plus also drops on one side when the steppers are powered down, I have to re calibrate them every other print, I have been told on the FB group that POM anti backlash nuts fix this issue and I will order some to see if they do fix the issue, of course it may be possible to keep just the steppers powered up constantly so they dont drop
I saw this printer on their site a few months ago and my first thought was “why no top enclosure?”. Once you worked out all the bugs, it’s clear these is yet another B+ machine from creality. I do appreciate them trying new things like this and the CR30. Hope they do IDEX in 2022
I am disappointed that we are not hearing more about IDEX.
I've not had to level the bed on my Sermoon D1 more than once every 20+ prints so maybe you janked it up when you assembled it incorrectly. Although it doesn't get super hot in the enclosure I have noticed that in a cold room the interior is still nicely warm which I think helps with warping as I've not had any where I did on my Ender 3. I think I paid £415.
I think you're supposed to tie wrap the bed cables to the bed mount
Quality of prints is amazing but for month now I’m strugling with partial clogs and clicking extruder gear feeding filament. Changed everything- nozzle 2 times, bowden tube for capricorn inside heatbreak 3 times, stepper motor to make sure it is not broken, modified cooling fans to make better cooling of radiator inside. Only slowing prints to 30-40mms give better results but still clicking occurs. Using 1,3mm retraction and 200C for Silk PLA. For me it looks like heatbreak melts filament inside before nozzle which causes partial clogs.
Creality just makes sloppy products unfortunately. I only have creality but it's not a good experience. I will not buy creality again. Their products are not mature, tested, they are shipped with all kind of defects, beds are wrapped, roller have cracks etc. And that would be ok-ish if they were a small starting company but come one!!!! This is just disrespectful. In future years other companies will take big chunks of their market and they will wake up eventually but who cares. Question, besides Prusa, what other companies have decent products and prices and a big enough clients knowledge-base for sharing ideas in case of issues? Thank you for the video 😊
I wanted to love my Ender 5 Plus but Creality puts out semi finished products that after some major upgrades results in a somewhat decent printer that still needs more upgrades. Direct drive, automatic bed leveling and a full enclosure aren’t asking for much. 😕
I understand your hesitation last Wednesday. So when are you going to sell your own merch? I appreciate that you don’t just tell the good stuff.
Yeah, I didnt want to get into the meat of it on stream especially since I put so much time into sort of breaking it apart in this video. Well I do have some through UA-cam that should be displayed below the video but I would like to look into other options. I would love a nice hoodie\sweater. I really like sweaters without hoods and it would be awesome to find somewhere that can just have the small robot but instead of printed on the sweater have it as sort of a patch\embroidered. I also had a cool idea for a summer line with the robot wearing sunglasses laying back on a spool. I actually played around with sketching it and was not happy with it. I may need to commission that.
Lol I just realized I ranted. My answer is I am not sure but I have ideas and it is on one of my lists 😂
You've reviewed the B1 but what about B1 plus?
That's a bummer, the printer sounds like a 90% finished idea. Absolutely agree the filament patch should have had a PTFE tube to help constrain / protect it.
When you were poking around in the guts of the printer it looked like the USB port was just a panel mount style USB extension cable which would make it super easy to just unplug the extension cable if you wanted to stuff a raspberry pi inside it.
I'm waiting for a printer that produces a extremely smooth bottom, top, side , & top layers without having not to go into the G code or printer settings. The filament rollers should be in a position to feed the extruder & straighten out the filament.
I think the biggest drawback on this model is the lack of support to 300degC (to allow printing nylon etc.). I wonder if there is an upgrade anywhere to replace the PTFE-lined heat break with a titanium one? that way this machine would really be my perfect choice....
So if I can purchase this printer for $380.00 brand new would you think that's a good deal? It is being discontinued so I wonder if they are coming out with a new one . SO WOULD YOU BUY IT FOR $380.00 OFF AMAZON?
I don't have a Sermoon D1, but I do have a dual lead screw printer that had a huge problem with the sagging bed on one side. The best fix is to update the firmware and enable the Z Stepper Auto Alignment feature in Marlin and run a G34 every time you print. For me, I had to install a new mainboard, but I don't think that would be necessary with the Sermoon D1.
Since C reality released the Marlin source code, shouldn't you be able to search through that to determine what drivers the board is using?
It's in the video, it's TMC2208s.
The more I hear about Creality and their mistakes or "sloppiness" in their design process and the designs themselves, the more I think they're trying to frequently push something new to generate revenue and not a great different product from others designs
That’s the way of a lot of Chinese companies unfortunately. They only see dollar signs. That’s why I’ve become a huge fan of Prusa over the years, since they are one of the few companies out there that strives to have the best customer support, quality assurance, printer features, printer reliability, print quality, and gummy bears.
I have a couple ender 5 ... They are amazing machines........ After completely replacing the entire hot end and all electronics... 🤣
I can't recommend creality, at every step they're designs are inferior to modern designs.
do you think a Z-rod belt sync could be implemented DIY ? Or maybe just needs tighter nuts?
On thingiverse I've seen a linear rail mod but the guy said the bed can still fall out of level occasionally.
what 3D printer prints the strongest? I'm not talking about filaments I want to know which "3D PRINTER" is capable of printing with the strongest bond. I already know which filaments are the strongest.
i have 3k to spent. what is the best printer on the market for this pricetag max?
The no top enclosure reminds me very much of the ultimaker printers. I am continuously baffled by that weird design choice, by ultimaker but now also creality. What is the point of even including doors, if you are not going to enclose the most important side of all?
Anti-Backlash Spring Loaded Nut and a Capricorn blue ptfe tube
if they had just installed these two things and autobedlevel then it would have been a little more interesting, thought it was a lot of money for it and so not much new about the machine, it is more a fusion of different printers they have made 🙂
A lot of these things aren't oversights, they're intentional design choices. Like the "incomplete enclosure" - it's not meant to be a full enclosure. It's for noise. That's what the back is open too, this is more of a noise focused printer. The bed issue aside (that is surely a QC issue, they need to take that one to heart), it seems like a decent printer. What's wrong with it IMO is the price. This is a $450 printer. Maybe a $500 in a pinch, but that's knocking on the door of the Ender 6. Not a $639 printer - that's far too close to an Ender 7 while not delivering thst much more than a CR-10S.
Expecting a full, proper enclosed 280x250x310 direct drive corexy'esque printer for ~$600 is not at all realistic these days. Almost half the pricetag is shipping as it is.
For what you appear to be seeking, there's the Sermoon V1 (pro).
Dang, saw some open box of these for $375 at Micro Center.. but this review makes me wonder 🤔 then i would also still have to convert it to all metal hotend, build a proper cooling duct, etc
If im not able to adjust the hotend to over 260c and hold stable that'll be a deal breaker
Just picked up an open box one at micro center for $249 so fingers crossed it works well
@@johnn73 i dragged my feet on it.. I Literally got one two days ago for $275 open box, completely untouched. I'm currently making some redesigns to the floating lead screws for the bed and hot end and will probably link both with a belt as there's enough room to add one. Converted the original throat to hight adjustable so you can snug it right up to the extruder gears, all those extra Dremel attachments finally came in handy lol. Then using a all metal throat to come in the bottom like normal as the original throat will be raised (and shortened to have it fit flush).
@@johnn73 I'll put up my designs on thingaverse under NeatOman lol
@@MrHeHim that's awesome! Il check it out. I'm building it now to see if it was worth the purchase or not. I see it's being discontinued so I purchased the warranty thru micro center so if I can't get parts for it they said they would just give me credit towards a new printer if that time ever comes
@@johnn73 last three printer I bought was a PowerSpec Duplicator i3 for $100 at Micro Center, that needed far more upgrades/redesigns to get it working like a champ
I didnt installed that piece of ptfe! I think its not even in the instructions...
looks like a half braked product same as the CR7
Sounds like a couple of steps backward from Creality. No way would I be dropping a $600 wad on that.
@20:11 this is NOT a corexy printer!! It has a motor exclusively for X and another exclusively for Y..
Who said it was a corexy?
@@ModBotArmy OMG you were talking about the Ender 7!. My bad, sorry! 🙏
The lead screw system looks just as janky as the E3, they should be using ball screw not lead screw and have dual end stop switch’s.
Waiting for the sermoon v1 pro to be reviewed
X and Y gantry together with direct drive is the only reasonable combination, mechanically wise. Where are the "Strange Design Choices"? Also 2:10, "Without further adue" and "right into todays video" seems really ironic after two and a half minutes of babbeling, followed directly by advertisement.
For the price, this printer is total garbage, I nearly purchased one until I seen it wasn’t fully enclosed, for this price I expect the printer be able to print high temp materials life PA-CF and PC, instead I went for a Qidi-Tech which can print pretty much anything out of the box, its also not perfect, but is much better value for the money versus this thing.
I personally gave the CR-200B a shot. It sucks ass. Don't buy it.
Great review as always. This machine seems to be pretty half-assed in my opinion, or if I’m being completely honest, a total piece of shit. Especially for $600. Oh hell no. Few good features thrown in here and there like the semi enclosure, great frame, and the okay direct drive extruder, but then there’s a load of tacky mickey-mouse shit like that strange filament path and control panel placement on the inside. I learned to expect that from Creality.
Just buy a prusa.
This is a weird product. It's almost a few different things, but never fully one thing. It needs a lot to be great, but it looks meh.