Hey John, love your channel. I was on my about my 100th video on insulating metal buildings and ran across this video out of the blue. I was your dad's next door neighbor in Woodside until a few weeks ago, lol. We just got a property with a metal building off of Storm Branch that I want to insulate. Great video. Love your cars too. When I saw the blue Dodge Viper noticed your name I put two and two together. Seen that Viper and the Prowler in your dads driveway many times. Keep up the good work! Mike
I'm sure someone has said this by now, but the silver side is supposed to face out against the steel exterior, with a small air gap between them for vertical air flow. That maximizes the reflection of radiant heat produced by the sun.
Would like to know if this actually helped in the summer and winter. I been thinking of doing the same thing to help heat mine in the winter but afraid it will be hotter in the summer with the foil on both sides. How is it helping. Was it worth the money
Also if your just tired take a skilsaw turn blade backwards so it doesn't tear it up . Put duck tape for lines or prevent damage if blade is tearing it up a little . Mainly just heavy 2" sheets . And remember measuring cutouts always measure from the last sheet set and all measurements frome same side bottom up or or left to right is accurate
@@jackle842000 yes. When I was looking at doing this I found this information that I used. “The foil is called a “radiant barrier” and it can be used to keep warmth inside a building, or, if used correctly, it can be used to help reduce the heat load coming into the building from the walls or roof deck. There are a few scenarios for proper use, so I’ll go through them here: For a radiant barrier to work, there must be some air gap between the foil and the wall or roof deck. In other words, if you press the foil side of the insulation tight up against the wall (foil facing outward), the radiant barrier will not work. Of course, the insulation will work. This means that you are reducing the conductive heat load that goes into the building, but you are not reducing the radiative heat load. The insulation will keep the heat out on hot days, and will keep the heat in on cold days. If, on the other hand, you use something like a 2″ x 4″ to create a gap between the wall and the insulation board (foil facing out) then you will have a radiant barrier. Here, not only is your insulation working, but so is the radiant barrier - and therefore, unlike in the above paragraph, you are reducing your conductive and radiative heat loads entering the building. The insulation will keep the heat out on hot days, and keep the heat in on cold days, and the radiant barrier will keep the heat out on hot days. There is a third scenario where you have the foil facing inward. Here you can press the insulation tight against the wall, or have a gap… it doesn’t matter. With the foil facing inward you are keeping warmth inside the building on colder days and nights. The insulation, will also work to keep the warmth in on cold days, and to keep the heat out on hot days, and the radiant barrier will keep the heat in on cold days. If you are placing the board in a window, face the radiant barrier outward. Otherwise, the heat that enters through the window will serve to heat the insulation board, and the board will in turn, serve to heat the room like a heating element in the oven. The radiant barrier facing outward will prevent this to a certain extent. You may want to experiment to see if it is better to have a gap, or no gap, between the foil and the glass pane on the window. Finally, if to be used in an attic space, you can use the panels on the floor of the attic. Face the foil upwards to keep the heat out. In this way, the insulation will keep the heat out on hot days, it will keep the heat in on cold days, and the radiant barrier will keep the heat out on hot days.”
@@JohnEngelI bought a new she that gets too hot. I bought simple plain foam boards that I cut and put by pressure. I bought the silver heat barrier and put it in top with staples. But I stopped. Am I doing this correctly? I read you should not put the heat barrier making contact with the roo panel wood, so in between I put foam ...is that ok ?
John. I have this exact shop only taller. I’m very disappointed in the weather proof this is. What issues if any have you had with leaking around window, doors and base of the building. I wish they would have at least put a bead of caulking before putting the siding on but they didnt. I’ve tried silicone, spray sealant etc but it still leaks. I also live in Utah and have extreme heat in summer and cold winters so the metal expands and contract with I believ has cause the failure of the products used. Any advise would be appreciated. Thank you
Great question. I also has an issue on my one window. I found that the silicone on the outside and then expanding foam from the inside has solved my issue. I also thought about adding some flashing on the outside so that the water would shed away from the window but luckily that was not needed for me.
Had to rent a scissor lift. Then press each in place. I used liquid nails and also two self tapping screws on each to make sure that if it did start to fall down, it would hit those.
@@JohnEngel hey I'm confused, are you getting the air gap by just putting the 2inch from board flush with the front side of the metal frame leaving u about an inch behind it? Or are u pushing back flush against the siding and considering the ribs in the siding an air gap?
Would like to see how it turns out on the roof, I am picking up my insulation tomorrow. My plan is to run straps the length of the building and let the board sit on it.
I bought the regular 2” 4x8 boards not the same as your reflective boards. Mine is just all pink. I purchased them but I have not installed them yet. Now that I see this video, you think it’ll make a difference or should I return them back and get the same as you did?
@@JohnEngel ok cool, thanks bud. Also I was planning on liquid nail the boards instead of having them persist measurements. What do you think about that idea?
@@JohnEngel instead of between the steel studs. Hang like a panel of siding, tape to seal, then over lay with the metal siding. Less labor, more efficient,
@@wranglerdude1004 Just so much wasted product. And the fact mine is 10 ft leg height makes it even more challenging. Not to mention I got vertical siding so my purlins are horizontal in a different way than horizontal siding.
I'm about to start this same project in my 24x24 building. It is more of a pole barn with wood framing, and concrete floor. Plan on using liquid nails straight onto the corrugated steel walls. What type of foam knife did you use? Or would you recommend something different now that you have done yours? Do you think liquid nails will hold the boards on the ceiling? Thanks!
So I used the Amazon recommended knife and it’s amazing. I tried using insulation tape but that was no good. I’m thinking that liquid nails will work much better.
You should be leaving an air gap with that foam insulation with a metal building. Also you lose the radiant heat barrier but not facing the foil towards the metal.
Hey John I have followed your build for a while and have been building my shop with tips from your videos. How well does your insulation. Also I have been look for that foam board everywhere on google and can’t find it. I am in Georgia so your build and weather is similar. I used the lights you recommended in your last video and love them. Thanks.
i am in the process of having a 30x 30 metal building built next month and was wondering what did they install under your roof metal before they put the metal on the roof? Also did you go all the way up with the foam board. would love to see finished!
@@farmerchuck3 something like this. It’s really no good for R value but will make sure that you don’t have condensation drips. www.ecofoil.com/products/double-bubble-foil-insulation-white-foil-4x125-500-sq-ft?gclid=Cj0KCQjw_7KXBhCoARIsAPdPTfg7UkEZz1t8MYbyxbyOmwa0c8Wt3WSZU-RGGhUxRn6lO6U19PoB0fYaAmGkEALw_wcB
Thank yoooou John!!!❤ I figured installing foam sheets was pretty straight forward but wasn't sure if I was missing something like some sort of glue or maybe the proper way was to nail it somehow but there weren't any videos showing it as clearly as you just smacking those puppies onto the metal wall! 😆
Got it thanks! Quick question, my insulation foam boards say they're combustible on them, I figure most are? Do you not place a thermal barrier in between the metal wall and the foam board? I imagine the sun's heat on the metal wall can make it pretty hot and that may be dangerous if the foam board is pressed up against the hot metal wall?@@JohnEngel
@@The-Blue-Ghost-Plant-Co. great question. The panels that I bought have a layer of thermal reflective material on both sides. It is my hope that this will prevent any issues.
Now diy cutting this be easier standing it on a end side down much easier cause you can lock on with your other arm . Drywall square be a little easier as well
@@JohnEngel man can you find out some more info, or if anyone has a link, I like how it fits almost flush in there. Can't seem to find them anywhere else.
Since the foam is combustible, I would not leave leave the walls and ceiling uncovered. In most places covering combustible insulation is a building code requirement. And, if a fire occurs insurance will not cover it.
Although it would make a bit more mess, a table saw would have made extremely quick and precise work to all that. I though in one of your videos a while back that you were going to use spray foam?
I totally agree that it tablesaw would’ve made this so much easier. I was originally looking to do spray insulation, the quote was $8500 and to do the foam insulation was 2000.
Very nice. May I ask you this: for a small metal building for storage, is it hard to get a permit to build? Do you have to pour poles for securing the structure ?
It was actually really easy to get the permit. I just went to my county office and explained what I was doing. They then give you the needed paperwork and information needed.
Hey John, Are you going to finish off the walls with either OSB or peg board or something? I just got a 20x30 garage built and our next step is figuring out what to do for insulation. We're in central FL, so the heat and humidity are coming!!
Hey John, love your channel. I was on my about my 100th video on insulating metal buildings and ran across this video out of the blue. I was your dad's next door neighbor in Woodside until a few weeks ago, lol. We just got a property with a metal building off of Storm Branch that I want to insulate. Great video. Love your cars too. When I saw the blue Dodge Viper noticed your name I put two and two together. Seen that Viper and the Prowler in your dads driveway many times. Keep up the good work! Mike
Thank you so much. It’s a small world. Come over anytime.
I'm sure someone has said this by now, but the silver side is supposed to face out against the steel exterior, with a small air gap between them for vertical air flow. That maximizes the reflection of radiant heat produced by the sun.
Yes. Many people. Lol. These are silver sided on both sides. So you can use either side and still keep a much more finished look.
@@JohnEngel Btw, how well does it dampen the noise when it's raining outside?
@@Condor1970 it’s does a good job. Not perfect but much better.
Would like to know if this actually helped in the summer and winter. I been thinking of doing the same thing to help heat mine in the winter but afraid it will be hotter in the summer with the foil on both sides. How is it helping. Was it worth the money
Are you supposed to have an air gap between the foam and the metal wall?
I have a slight gap between the foam and outside wall.
So far how does the garage hold up during summer 🌞⛱️? Does it help with the heat ?
Still hotter than I wanted. Lol. I think an AC unit is needed and hopefully because of the insulation, it will handle that easier.
Also if your just tired take a skilsaw turn blade backwards so it doesn't tear it up . Put duck tape for lines or prevent damage if blade is tearing it up a little . Mainly just heavy 2" sheets . And remember measuring cutouts always measure from the last sheet set and all measurements frome same side bottom up or or left to right is accurate
Is the foil not supposed to be installed towards the wall as a radiant barrier?
These have foil on both sides. Double foil.
@@JohnEngel ah, I wasn't sure but was just a thought. What if they have it on one side? Then does it matter?
@@jackle842000 yes. When I was looking at doing this I found this information that I used.
“The foil is called a “radiant barrier” and it can be used to keep warmth inside a building, or, if used correctly, it can be used to help reduce the heat load coming into the building from the walls or roof deck.
There are a few scenarios for proper use, so I’ll go through them here:
For a radiant barrier to work, there must be some air gap between the foil and the wall or roof deck.
In other words, if you press the foil side of the insulation tight up against the wall (foil facing outward), the radiant barrier will not work. Of course, the insulation will work. This means that you are reducing the conductive heat load that goes into the building, but you are not reducing the radiative heat load. The insulation will keep the heat out on hot days, and will keep the heat in on cold days.
If, on the other hand, you use something like a 2″ x 4″ to create a gap between the wall and the insulation board (foil facing out) then you will have a radiant barrier. Here, not only is your insulation working, but so is the radiant barrier - and therefore, unlike in the above paragraph, you are reducing your conductive and radiative heat loads entering the building. The insulation will keep the heat out on hot days, and keep the heat in on cold days, and the radiant barrier will keep the heat out on hot days.
There is a third scenario where you have the foil facing inward. Here you can press the insulation tight against the wall, or have a gap… it doesn’t matter. With the foil facing inward you are keeping warmth inside the building on colder days and nights. The insulation, will also work to keep the warmth in on cold days, and to keep the heat out on hot days, and the radiant barrier will keep the heat in on cold days.
If you are placing the board in a window, face the radiant barrier outward. Otherwise, the heat that enters through the window will serve to heat the insulation board, and the board will in turn, serve to heat the room like a heating element in the oven. The radiant barrier facing outward will prevent this to a certain extent. You may want to experiment to see if it is better to have a gap, or no gap, between the foil and the glass pane on the window.
Finally, if to be used in an attic space, you can use the panels on the floor of the attic. Face the foil upwards to keep the heat out. In this way, the insulation will keep the heat out on hot days, it will keep the heat in on cold days, and the radiant barrier will keep the heat out on hot days.”
@@JohnEngelI bought a new she that gets too hot. I bought simple plain foam boards that I cut and put by pressure. I bought the silver heat barrier and put it in top with staples. But I stopped. Am I doing this correctly? I read you should not put the heat barrier making contact with the roo panel wood, so in between I put foam ...is that ok ?
@chellychevres2969 you want the foil in-between the roof and insulation.
Is it going tight ageist the metal sheeting or does it leave an air space?
It leaves about an inch or two air space.
John. I have this exact shop only taller. I’m very disappointed in the weather proof this is. What issues if any have you had with leaking around window, doors and base of the building. I wish they would have at least put a bead of caulking before putting the siding on but they didnt. I’ve tried silicone, spray sealant etc but it still leaks. I also live in Utah and have extreme heat in summer and cold winters so the metal expands and contract with I believ has cause the failure of the products used. Any advise would be appreciated. Thank you
Great question. I also has an issue on my one window. I found that the silicone on the outside and then expanding foam from the inside has solved my issue. I also thought about adding some flashing on the outside so that the water would shed away from the window but luckily that was not needed for me.
did you ever get a minisplit or anything like that installed?
Not yet. That’s in the plans but looking like it will be winter or next spring.
My building (30x35), is constructed exactly like yours. I like what you have done, but am interested on how you did the ceiling?
Had to rent a scissor lift. Then press each in place. I used liquid nails and also two self tapping screws on each to make sure that if it did start to fall down, it would hit those.
Does this attract mold and mildew or does the foam work pretty good?
So far there has been no mold or mildew. It has been working well. :)
Building a 50x24 now. Would spray foam be better for the top to prevent condensation here in Tennessee?
I would do the whole building in spray foam if possible. This was a budget fix because of the expense of spray foam.
Where did you get the foam at if you don't mind telling me ?
There was a Facebook marketplace ad for it.
I thought there was suppose to be an air gap between siding and insulation. Vapor barrier?
Because of the siding used there is an air gap. :)
@@JohnEngel hey I'm confused, are you getting the air gap by just putting the 2inch from board flush with the front side of the metal frame leaving u about an inch behind it? Or are u pushing back flush against the siding and considering the ribs in the siding an air gap?
@@gregorylaflame4405 there is about a 1 inch gap once I place the foam.
where do I order foam board ?
I found these on FB marketplace
LOOKS GREAT NICE JOB
Thank you so much.
Silver part reflect heat with a air gap against wall ?
Exactly. These have silver on both sides.
Would like to see how it turns out on the roof, I am picking up my insulation tomorrow. My plan is to run straps the length of the building and let the board sit on it.
I think I will have rent a lift to get to the roof. I will keep you posted.
Where did you find the foam board like John’s?
@@markfayerman1206 Facebook marketplace, random people sell it
What about using a utility blade score and snap it?
I’m going to give it a try and see. I don’t think it will snap cleanly but worth a try.
Where'd you get your insulation from? I like that it's clean with no paint or logo on it.
That was the selling feature for me as well. I actually found this on FB Marketplace.
@JohnEngel that's hilarious that's where I just ordered mine. Is this R10
@@acetech9237 I believe so. :) It has been a while since I ordered it.
I'm looking forward to seeing you channeling your inner Michelangelo working on the Sistine Chapel ceiling.
Lol. Me too. I really need to do some work on that basement wall.
Are they double foil? Otherwise I think the foil should go out.
Both sides have the foil. I liked it because it gives it a little more of a finished look.
I bought the regular 2” 4x8 boards not the same as your reflective boards. Mine is just all pink. I purchased them but I have not installed them yet. Now that I see this video, you think it’ll make a difference or should I return them back and get the same as you did?
I truly think they will do the same. I haven’t seen the reduction of heat that I was hoping for.
@@JohnEngel ok cool, thanks bud. Also I was planning on liquid nail the boards instead of having them persist measurements. What do you think about that idea?
@@DetroitLions1984 I think that is a better idea than what I did. If I was to do this again I would use liquid nails as well.
Just put the foam over the studs the metal over the foam....a complete thermal barrier.
Why not?
??? I’m curious.
@@JohnEngel instead of between the steel studs.
Hang like a panel of siding, tape to seal, then over lay with the metal siding.
Less labor, more efficient,
@@MalleusDei275 gotcha. That does make a lot more sense. I do agree that would be best.
@@JohnEngel
I used 2 inch foam board on my shed...
What was the R value on your 2” foam?
They said it was R10.
I believe this type of foam typically has an R value of 5 per inch. So 1"=5, 2"=10, 3"=15 etc from what I've read
My metal.building studs are 5ft on center. Makes finishing a nightmare. How did yours come with 4ft studs?
Each manufacturer must use different dimensions.
I am about to run into the same situation, but I plan to run the rigid foam boards lengthwise, so I will have to cut each at 5'.
@@wranglerdude1004 Just so much wasted product. And the fact mine is 10 ft leg height makes it even more challenging.
Not to mention I got vertical siding so my purlins are horizontal in a different way than horizontal siding.
where did you find the boards?
I bought these off FB Market.
Try an eletric carving knife works great
Great idea. Thank you.
How many boards did you order
110. :)
I'm about to start this same project in my 24x24 building. It is more of a pole barn with wood framing, and concrete floor. Plan on using liquid nails straight onto the corrugated steel walls.
What type of foam knife did you use? Or would you recommend something different now that you have done yours? Do you think liquid nails will hold the boards on the ceiling? Thanks!
So I used the Amazon recommended knife and it’s amazing. I tried using insulation tape but that was no good. I’m thinking that liquid nails will work much better.
have you seen condensation in your building?
I have not. :)
You should be leaving an air gap with that foam insulation with a metal building. Also you lose the radiant heat barrier but not facing the foil towards the metal.
How much is it per sheet and where do you buy it from? I've been looking for something like this.
I found it on FB Market. I think it was 20 bucks per sheet.
Do you need an air gap behind this? For accurate r value?
Yea but he didn’t put one
@@magicmillhouse9586 The metal has gaps in it.
did you do the ceiling too? finished product pics?
They are in the works. Getting it up there is the biggest challenge.
Are those boards metallic finish on both sides?
Yes they are.
Have you done the roof if so what was your method for hanging it
Clips and magnets.
Hey John I have followed your build for a while and have been building my shop with tips from your videos. How well does your insulation. Also I have been look for that foam board everywhere on google and can’t find it. I am in Georgia so your build and weather is similar. I used the lights you recommended in your last video and love them. Thanks.
Hey Mark,
Thank you so much. So far the insulation has done well but the real test will be summer. I found mine on Facebook marketplace.
@@JohnEngel John it's gotten hot outside, how's the insulation performing?
@@KT-1 it does a good job but it’s still hotter than I expected. Now I’m going to look into budget friendly cooling.
John did you finish the insulation and cooling? and more videos on that?
@@markfayerman1206 not yet. I really need to get on this. Lol
i am in the process of having a 30x 30 metal building built next month and was wondering what did they install under your roof metal before they put the metal on the roof?
Also did you go all the way up with the foam board. would love to see finished!
The roof has a thin insulation that keeps it from Haven’t condensation. I’m hoping to do a video soon of the final product.
@@JohnEngel do you know what they installed?
@@farmerchuck3 something like this. It’s really no good for R value but will make sure that you don’t have condensation drips. www.ecofoil.com/products/double-bubble-foil-insulation-white-foil-4x125-500-sq-ft?gclid=Cj0KCQjw_7KXBhCoARIsAPdPTfg7UkEZz1t8MYbyxbyOmwa0c8Wt3WSZU-RGGhUxRn6lO6U19PoB0fYaAmGkEALw_wcB
@@JohnEngel @Chuck Cohenour check out Blue Trex A lot better than that bubble stuff that the building people offer.
@@NYTROeast can you add a link to it please
Im lookingfor doublesided for mine with no markings and im having trouble finding them. Did you order these online?
I found these on FaceBook.
Thank yoooou John!!!❤ I figured installing foam sheets was pretty straight forward but wasn't sure if I was missing something like some sort of glue or maybe the proper way was to nail it somehow but there weren't any videos showing it as clearly as you just smacking those puppies onto the metal wall! 😆
lol. Liquid nails can be used as well. :)
Got it thanks! Quick question, my insulation foam boards say they're combustible on them, I figure most are? Do you not place a thermal barrier in between the metal wall and the foam board? I imagine the sun's heat on the metal wall can make it pretty hot and that may be dangerous if the foam board is pressed up against the hot metal wall?@@JohnEngel
@@The-Blue-Ghost-Plant-Co. great question. The panels that I bought have a layer of thermal reflective material on both sides. It is my hope that this will prevent any issues.
I have the same bldg. You said you got 110 sheets, was enough to do the entire building?
It was. It was very close so don’t mess up. Lol.
What manufacturer of insulation did you use and where did you get it?
It’s a no brand name cheap solution I found on FB market.
Nice!! Will you come do mine when you get done?
Lol. It’s so much fun, why not.
John, working toward a smaller version of your building. How do you plan to secure the ceiling panels?
I going to use a metal strap that is bolted to the main frame. At least that’s the plan. Lol.
Been told ceiling insulation is very important w/metal due to condensation and dripping on whatever is below. Have you heard / experienced same?
@@mikerentchler6889 that is 100% true here in South Carolina. The humidity will cause it to happen.
Try cutting with chargeable fish fillet knife
That’s a great idea. Thank you.
The best way to cut these panels is with a Jigsaw and a straight edge. I’ve built dozens of Growrooms with these panels on the interior.
@@nickfoote8346 great info. Thank you.
@@nickfoote8346 great info. Thank you.
Now diy cutting this be easier standing it on a end side down much easier cause you can lock on with your other arm . Drywall square be a little easier as well
That’s a great idea. Thank you so much.
Where did you purchase your 2in foam board w/ radiant barrier without writing on them? They look slick!!
This was a Facebook marketplace find. I also liked that it has a somewhat finished look to it. :)
@@JohnEngel man can you find out some more info, or if anyone has a link, I like how it fits almost flush in there. Can't seem to find them anywhere else.
@@bullshiet facebook.com/marketplace/item/123580019956605/
@@JohnEngel Thanks, able to find some locally but they were around $24 per sheet. Still pretty economical. Now how to do that ceiling tho.
Since the foam is combustible, I would not leave leave the walls and ceiling uncovered. In most places covering combustible insulation is a building code requirement. And, if a fire occurs insurance will not cover it.
Great info. Thank you.
Can you do a video on how to fold toilet paper. Thx
Just for you. Of course.
Although it would make a bit more mess, a table saw would have made extremely quick and precise work to all that. I though in one of your videos a while back that you were going to use spray foam?
I totally agree that it tablesaw would’ve made this so much easier. I was originally looking to do spray insulation, the quote was $8500 and to do the foam insulation was 2000.
@@JohnEngel Definitely a no brainer, lol. Can’t wait to see how well it works out for you.
Very nice. May I ask you this: for a small metal building for storage, is it hard to get a permit to build? Do you have to pour poles for securing the structure ?
It was actually really easy to get the permit. I just went to my county office and explained what I was doing. They then give you the needed paperwork and information needed.
Hey John,
Are you going to finish off the walls with either OSB or peg board or something? I just got a 20x30 garage built and our next step is figuring out what to do for insulation. We're in central FL, so the heat and humidity are coming!!
Great question. For now I’m just leaving the insulation exposed. Eventually I would love to finish it off.
Do you notice a temperature difference now?
I do. It’s noticeably cooler but the doors are my next project, as they are not insulated.
NEXT TIME TRY A WHAT I CALL A BANG BLOCK. A SMALL PEICE OF WOOD LIKE A 8 X 8 PLYWOOD AND A HAMMER. WORKS GREAT ON SEAMS .
I’m going to try that next time. Thank you.
These people never post after its been through weather changes, is it still sweating or causing mold issues??????
Well it’s only been a few months but I will do a review about a year after. I also did this same thing for my flooring video. :) Happy Thanksgiving.
you have a c8 now?
Lol. My neighbor moved and needed a place to keep it. I’m just watching over it.
Did you get the boards locally ?
I used FB market and got 110 boards.
Where did you get the insulation ?
I found all of this on Facebook marketplace.