This was built by unsupervised illegal immigrants that don't guve a damn about their quality of work ir reputation because they are here today and gone tomorrow. Too lazy or cheap to swap out nail guns and use prooer fasteners and they think the customer is too ignorant to know better. Drywall screws don't have the shearing strength resistance to be used on joist hangers. This shows a complete lack of character on the builders part. There needs to be a process for prosecuting buukders that cut corners, especially when they create a dangerous structure.
So clicked on the vid because I am about to insulate my new 30x40. As soon as I seen the ladder stunt I had to click the like because that's the things you do in the shop when the boss isn't around lol. Then I clicked the sub before you even put up the first piece of insulation up because you have made this more than just a "this is insulation and this is how I put it up". NICE JOB, and yeah I picked up a couple of ideas I haven't seen yet so thanks for that hehe
Good advice on this build out. Tip on using a table saw cutting foam. Buy the thinnest blade, like a 7 inch diameter 1/8 inch thick plywood blade. But run the blade backwards so the teeth do not grab chunks. It will cut very well but leave less foam dust.
Hell, I would just use a protractor on some cardboard and make a saw blade from cardboard. No teeth required. Cutting polystyrene does not take much of anything. Best of all, it is practically free, aside from your time.
Just a tip or two. Use a cheap multi-length razor knife and straight edge to cut....no messy saw. Next, trimming excess greay stuff with any serrated edge knife works well. I use a 10" bread knife.
An easy way to skip the saw/trim method on the foam is spray it lightly with water immediately after so it cures fast. Also the foil face foam is an added expense that adds no value in this scenario if you put insulation over it. It requires an air space over the foil for its reflective feature to work. If you can buy it without the foil you will save a few bucks.
EPS stands for expanded polystyrene, while XPS (green, pink, blue) is extruded polystyrene. EPS is better for the environment since XPS releases a pretty serious gas into the air that is really bad in terms of GWP. That being said I have used plenty of both in my home and shed. BTW I got a foam blade from Bullet Products.It's like a deli slicer for your table saw. No vacuum needed.
Holy hell, I’ve seen the old drywall screw/joist hanger trick but man, floating it over the romex is legendary. The load capacity of a drywall screw hanging 3/8 out with only 3/4 in the wood MIGHT be about 20 pounds. Amazing craftsmanship
Talstar Pro was one of 3 main insecticides that we used in Pest Control as an exterminator. Great choice for insect control. On your exterior 3 ft up & 3 ft out around the base of your building you can use Termidor SC or Taurus SC(same product with active ingrdient but cheaper than Termidor). In the fall we would treat the foundation again, along with the eaves, around the windows, and any other gapped exterior spot for box elder bug & asian lady beetle control going into winter. We used Oneguard for that fall treatment.
I did this exact thing on my 30x40 shop roll up door. Helped a TON. That door used to be a heat/cold PUMP. air in front of it was ether rolling up or down with hot or cold air. Now is it is 100 plus on the outside it is something like 72 on the inside of the door. I hate having to fix other people f-up crap. Been doing it all my life at work and at home.
Since spray foam can expand into more than 1/4", you can cut the foam board to be even looser, and just use a couple chunks of foam on the bottom as spacers/shims to hold it up. This will also mitigate the need to cut the spray foam and expose those cells. Or, if you use a foam gun and have really good technique, you can lower the output of the gun and deliver only the perfect amount to the joint such that none comes out. But I think it's easier to just cut the foam loose, fit it easily, and blast the butt joint with foam. Keep up the great videos!
I tried watching this while I was painting some baseboard trim. It is impossible to just listen to your channel. Everyone of them is a must watch also. You just don’t know what you are gonna do next. I actually LOL when you pulled the insulation board on to yourself out of the truck!!
You should’ve hollered Yee-Yee instead Help. At least you could’ve had a beer while you were trapped.😁 And some people wonder why there are building inspectors. Merry Christmas and Be Safe.
I've been thinking of spray insulation on my "shouse" but its messy, costs a bit, hard to do it yourself when I've never done Spay Insulation..., I like your share on this subject and I enjoyed your candor and humor. Nice work! Thank you.
I've been doing pest control for 24 years, good job with the tallstar. Good product and you applied it well !. For best control of lady bugs and stink bugs, spay exterior of buildings around late September. Great video !
I have several tools where I like to keep metal and plastic chips out of the motor. I use a n 8,25 'Skillsaw' for cutting metal and I found that I could use a roll of electrical tape and a piece of the 'sock' from a 4" perforated drain pipe to put a rough filter over the air intake gills on the saw. I've used two inexpensive table saws to rip panels as shown here. I did not use the 'sock' on the first table saw, but I did on the second table saw. The second saw is still running. The first is not. Foamdust is hell on the motors. It is very effective as an insulation. So much so, that it causes the motors to overheat very quickly. I found that a sawsall with a coarse blade, a straight 2x4, and two Quick Clamps is faster than the table saw. Once you set up the 2x4, you can prop the panel up in a way where you can set the saw in place and pull the trigger, letting gravity do most of the work for you. trying to ride herd on those big panels pushed over a small tablesaw can be a pain. EPS stands for expanded polystyrene.
Previous carpenters seemed like real pros lol. It’s incredible to see how poorly other people build. Nice to see the neat, tidy professional install of the foam board
One point to note about filling gaps with spray foam, if the gap is deep you may not get complete fill. Latest tech is expanding foam tape round all four side, guaranteed fill of gaps.
Great video, just discovered you and subscribe right away! You got practical application, great way to break it down, and have a lot of fun doing it. Outstanding!
It's a good thing you used insect spray before you installed the foam board because we used the same board in a fish house and the insect went behind the paneling and ate the foam. We wondered where the white beads were coming from until we removed the paneling. Back then we used 1/2" tuff-r-board, which has foil on both sides, to insulate the fish house. On the coldest days that you want to fish you can shut the heater off and sit in your short sleeve shirt in the fish house, beautiful stuff.
I'm doing the same in my shed office. I used metal tape to keep the foam board in place. I'm also cover the wood with the tape to help with thermal bridging. I almost have it all done. Looks like an airplane in there but it's super warm. Thinking about using fiberglass insulation also.
Probably too late but if you use strapping before you put your finish wall up you will still get your reflective value from the foil face. Did this to an old cape with 2x6 rafters with 2 layers of 2 in.foil board. Ripped some blocks to bump the foil flush with inside of rafters allowing a proper vent behind. Sealed everything with foil tape strapped and drywalled. Did this so I wouldn't lose ceiling height and gave me a 28.8 (2×14.4) r value.
Thanks for the tip about the foam gun I would not have ever purchased one without seeing one in action. I can see it would be a very handy tool to have.
Thanks for providing a link to the spray foam gun. I need one of those. I'm tired of trying to plug up the tubing after each time I use it and then wasting half a can on top of that when it gets clogged up. Hmm, it took me to amazon, but didn't take me to the item. Ok, so the link farther down worked. Thanks.
I will say this. You don't miss a trick. You are very detail oriented. Excellent job. Like Doug said. Can't just listen. Definitely have to watch. Always appreciate the humor.
I did exactly what you just did a few years ago. Table saw, shop vac and spray foam gun. Only thing different, and be glad you had it, was the 3/4" on the outside. I had the ribs in the steel siding to deal with getting behind the posts. That spray foam gun is worth every penny paid for it. Works amazing! Amateur tip, lol. Gumout carb and choke cleaner cleans the foam up as good as the great stuff cleaner. Acitone is what it is. Great with the hack saw blade. I used a multi tool with a DULL blade. Nice video, comedy appreciated 👍
@@SpicerDesignsLLC By far. Our house is in the pole barn taking up a 30x30 corner. I had the metal roof professionally spray foamed on the outside. That's amazing. Rain has to be really hard to begin to hear it. 2" spray foam on top. 2x8 joists on the trusses with 1 1/2" foam board under them and I blew fiberglass into the cavity. Metal siding/roofing covers the foam board.
EPS = Expanded Poly Styrene. A variant version of styrofoam. White beaded = common "beer cooler" foam. Pink and blue building foam common to Home Depot, Lowe's and other building supply stores, sheet is very similar material but would not be as good for flotation as the white beaded version. The metalized backing on yours helps protect the foam from UV and acts as the vapor barrier for the pink or blue, since they don't seal as well as the white beer cooler foam.
Styrofoam is actually EXP foam Extruded Poly-Styrene the green, pink or blue ridged board foam used under concrete slabs. Lots of people call EPS styrofoam, incorrectly. The third type of construction board foam is Polyiso. Thats the one with a foil face embedded and is yellow in color.
OMG…the keystone girl wise cracks are hilarious…dude, don’t change your delivery it is spot on! (That doesn’t mean content, just delivery) 😬 I kid, thank you for taking extra time to make these videos 👍
Good timing. I have an installation project coming up and there were some great tips. I will try unloading the foamboard from the truck one bundle at a time. wouldn't want to follow over or anything.
@@SpicerDesignsLLC When I heard $10ish a sheet I was like "whaaaat?" Checked my Lowes and its $22.47 a sheet. Oof. Looking to build my own shop so the title grabbed my attention. Your humor and commonsense got you a like and subscribe man, great video!
I totally LMAO when you "dang it!" on the table saw. When ever I do stuff like this I exclaim "Stupid Machine!" Great job and I will do this on my over the garage space.
Great video! Learning while grinning is a good combo. Thanks for posting this really helped me decide my choice for insulating my garage. Similar construction including "creative engineering" features like under sized fasteners or wiring that did not meet the amp load for different circuits.
Ladybugs and stink bugs by the thousands. I feel your pain. You designed and executed this solution EXACTLY as I plan to do mine. Well done. You even got the bug proofing right. Spray foam is a highly preferred solution but so dang expensive. Plus the added strength it adds but alas, big bucks. I also plan an “interior stud wall” that will sit between the vertical posts and will likely go with regular old fiberglass insulation (ease/cost). An alternative is the blown in insulation that is sprayed through a screen and will fill the void better. Great video of an alternative lower cost method.
as i insulate our metal pole shed i have been writing the measurments on the walls or posts in sharpie markers for easy reference. i just picked up a bunch of harbor freight led shop lites for it at 17 $ each is pretty good buy lights have been in a year now (shop work in progress) no problems with them so far. the little plastic hacksaw handles might work good for the trimming up easier on hands maybe ?? fun vid dont get buried to deep in foam board:)
Great video, Kyle. This is a video I'm going to remember for when I have saved enough $$ to insulate my garage and my big 40x60. I never would have thought about that Great Stuff gun. That's genius.
when I built my 48x72 shop two years ago by myself pretty much it too me 6 months with concrete over 88 yards....anyway all the authority people that did not know said spray foam and nothing else. Got a price 6000 grand even how does that even happen an even number estimate. Looked a the foam board and at the time the spray was a third of the spray. That's what i am using, I paint the panels with house paint white and cut them to fit using 2x2 and screws to hold them up, you don't see the wood its under the foam. I have scissor truss and did not want the mess on my trusses, so this works so much cleaner and cheaper and still warm. I just priced the board you use and 2 inch is a third of the foam board. Heading out to try you way on some other area's the walls we will see if paint sticks just have to be careful, but it should be great thanks
One could have laid the eps over the beams and sealed it with foam, and left an 1.5 inch sealed air gap would have given you some more r value. Talstar needs to be applied regularly. pesticides are designed to break down over time. Diatomaceous eatmrrh in the wall will kill bugs for a long time.
Pole barns and houses, it's more about eliminating air infiltration than 'R' values. Framing lunber has an 'R' value of '1' per inch, so every 8' of your perimeter walls have the approximate equivalentvof 16 square feet of area that has an 'R' value of 1.5, plus about another R for the air film. Thermal energy moves like water and electricity, via the path of least resistance, so when your done, get a FLIR survey (you'll be able to coubt every framing member through the energy transfer). The poisoning of your space with pseticides is absolute genius. I hear RoundUp is really good for kids too. Goldblat makes some wicked insulation knives. Curious what you did about that giant heat sinknthat you're standing on. Most pole buildings that have a SOG also have bare edge concrete w/ no thermal break or under slab insulation, so lots of heat to warm that slab and about a foot of earth under it. You are entertaining. 🙂
Thinking about doing this in my shop just to get it tightened up the rest of the way. That foam gun is amazing as I've wasted good product before due to only needing about half the can at one time. Thanks for the tips! Dude, that foam unloading sequence had me dying! I appreciated the humor. Liked and subbed.
Thanks buddy! The foam gun is awesome. I try to keep things somewhat entertaining on the channel. Some people dont think its funny and they always make a point to let me know. Glad you like it.
Just a safety concern, specific to flammability... EPS is flammable and toxic when it burns. Being careful with flame and ignition, of course...good idea to also have fire control devices within easy reach
Thanks for the hacksaw blade tip, that should work way easier than the long extendable "click" knifes. I have used this method with the XPS and polyiso foam boards quite a bit, it works great. I have found, especially with the thicker foam sheets, that I like to have at least 1/4 inch to 3/8" gap around the foam board to easily get the tip of the insulation gun into, that way the foam fills the whole void and you aren't trying to follow a thin gap that is easy to spray the foam onto the surface of the panels instead. Just what i have found, others mileage may vary. Enjoy your videos as always, have a good one!!👍
Good video and liked your presentations, especially you telling us the cost of materials. Your humor definitely made me subscribe! Good luck, look forward to your next video.
Kyle, also wanted to mention, at the 11:06 mark, your reference to the spray foam.. You gotta 'stutch' it in first to get 'stickage' before it 'splooges' out!.... "Come- on Man" ...splane yerself! Nice job tho. Happy Wife, happy...? ...You know the thing!
Your a good source of info to advise a guy like me (I could have been the guy that did the first construction) to get help insulating my finished 3 car garage. Thanks so much for helping with my anger management at the thought of doing this job. Oh and the facula tick went away.
I see you did this a while back. Wondering if there's anything you'd change about it? I'm in process of same thing, shop makeover. Planning same 1.5" foam board, metal barn panels walls and ceiling to brighten it up. Same 1.5" in ceiling. It feels like a good plan, good to find others doing the same thing. 27 years with nothing but the 3/4 exactly like yours, needs a facelift for some new equipment :)
Some of this stuff I knew and other tricks I didnt. I'm very detail oriented as well so your detail work looks great. I immediately subscribed because of the times you got upset, (because it reminds me of me), or had mishaps that really made me laugh! Again, because everyone has them, including me, and man did I laugh! So Thank You for that!
Thanks for the sub and glad you got some laughs out of it. I try to keep things entertaining. Ill have the framing video coming soon. Should be pretty funny
sounds like the Amish barns built back home, they never had a consistent spacing, even the houses wouldn't. But as an electrician I doubt you've seen too many on the job.. =) only other suggestion I would have said, too late now, is to "glue" the poly boards together with the good stuff, as they sit behind the vertical beams, there is still some thermal bridging in that small gap between the poly boards and the inside face of the vertical beams.
I'm actually doing a similar style install. 1.5" between the gerts and adding a 2" layer over top with offsetting the seams. Then putting .5" osb over that. I'm not looking to hide the posts. I just want the wall space to mount things and get stuff off the floor. My barn is a 48'x64' with 16' walls. I'm not looking forward to getting insulation up on the trusses.
Nice work, I like the fact that the lack of glove ware does not bother you. I appreciate your dedication. Those &*^%in splinters hurt! I have had more success with foam board in flat wall assemblies. 2 14in of board will be great. You took a soso building and made it great. Recycling buildings is the way to go.
Have a detached garage and i am looking at options to insulate. I want to insulate the ceiling first and i do not plan on putting sheetrock. Plan on painting the trusses and everything black to have an industrial look. Can this foam board be painted? Do you think it would be a good option to keep the garage from getting so hot in the summer? Looking at spray foaming this spring but open to foam board.
What would you do if the walls were bare metal with no previous insulation between the wall and wood??? We moved into a place with bare interior walls.
Been standing for 20 years and survived tornados. If your referring to the truss span, snow load is more of a factor than the wind. We barely get snow in Southern IN.
AMVIC makes EPS Silverboard in many thicknesses and it comes as 4'x8' or 9' at R5 per inch. 1.5" costs $0.94 per sq ft CDN EPS is expanded (by steam) poly styrene which is less costly than XPS (extruded) as you mentioned but EPS also retains its R value over the years and XPS does not..... XPS can take on water which would be a problem on the exterior PACIFIC ICF
We live in the “Age Of The Drywall Screw”… Everybody seems to think they are a structural connector. Cracks me up every time I see them used improperly. Most people don’t understand the issue of the hardness of steel and how if the hardness is too high, it can’t be used structurally because it can’t handle any sheer impact or load. I have seen tico nails that have been under excessive strain in a hanger application for many years, and when they are pulled out, they have bent over time but not sheered off. And that’s what you want, my friends!
Simpson strong tie sells screws for use with their products. Actual drywall screws, probably not a good idea. But there are screws made for every application and have much higher holding capacity than nails.
@@Basketofdeplorables173yup. I use those screws all the time anymore. And they are purpose designed screws that are the proper hardness for the job. I was just saying that steel hardness is often not understood by many people, and it really needs to be.
Yeah same with screws. They are tight and don't pull put but have garbage sheer strength. They don't bend very well. They snap/break under sheer pressure. I only use screws (ESPECIALLY drywall screws) under almost zero load or something somewhat temporary. Drywall screws are cheap for a reason...
use the medal on the bottom up 36in hight because then you can spry the floor with out worry about getting your walls wet and it work best if you do car work in so o you can spry the floor and the dirt and s tuff wont stick to the walls i have enven done in a resuraunt because the ower was getting tire of fixing the wall were kiods kik the walls and it made a lot easyer for his worker to cleand the walls too
You sound like me when I'm working in the garage. "You blonkin rattle feet sturcklefrat smick melly womp walker drop dumb fratten house snickle fifen" ....
Heres the Amazon Affiliate link for the spray foam gun: amzn.to/44BIBT4
This was built by unsupervised illegal immigrants that don't guve a damn about their quality of work ir reputation because they are here today and gone tomorrow. Too lazy or cheap to swap out nail guns and use prooer fasteners and they think the customer is too ignorant to know better. Drywall screws don't have the shearing strength resistance to be used on joist hangers. This shows a complete lack of character on the builders part. There needs to be a process for prosecuting buukders that cut corners, especially when they create a dangerous structure.
So clicked on the vid because I am about to insulate my new 30x40. As soon as I seen the ladder stunt I had to click the like because that's the things you do in the shop when the boss isn't around lol. Then I clicked the sub before you even put up the first piece of insulation up because you have made this more than just a "this is insulation and this is how I put it up". NICE JOB, and yeah I picked up a couple of ideas I haven't seen yet so thanks for that hehe
Thanks for the sub Thomas. Glad you enjoyed the video. I try to keep the videos somewhat entertaining. Good luck with your project.
Good advice on this build out.
Tip on using a table saw cutting foam. Buy the thinnest blade, like a 7 inch diameter 1/8 inch thick plywood blade. But run the blade backwards so the teeth do not grab chunks. It will cut very well but leave less foam dust.
If i remember right we used to run a finish blade backwards for foam and vinyl siding.
Hell, I would just use a protractor on some cardboard and make a saw blade from cardboard. No teeth required. Cutting polystyrene does not take much of anything. Best of all, it is practically free, aside from your time.
Bosch “soft material” knife blade with a jigsaw or blade runner will do wonders for foam. Entire theater sets are built with that setup.
I just bought a blade made to cut foam on Amazon
Just a tip or two. Use a cheap multi-length razor knife and straight edge to cut....no messy saw. Next, trimming excess greay stuff with any serrated edge knife works well. I use a 10" bread knife.
An easy way to skip the saw/trim method on the foam is spray it lightly with water immediately after so it cures fast. Also the foil face foam is an added expense that adds no value in this scenario if you put insulation over it. It requires an air space over the foil for its reflective feature to work. If you can buy it without the foil you will save a few bucks.
EPS stands for expanded polystyrene, while XPS (green, pink, blue) is extruded polystyrene. EPS is better for the environment since XPS releases a pretty serious gas into the air that is really bad in terms of GWP. That being said I have used plenty of both in my home and shed. BTW I got a foam blade from Bullet Products.It's like a deli slicer for your table saw. No vacuum needed.
Holy hell, I’ve seen the old drywall screw/joist hanger trick but man, floating it over the romex is legendary. The load capacity of a drywall screw hanging 3/8 out with only 3/4 in the wood MIGHT be about 20 pounds. Amazing craftsmanship
Ya good stuff there. I had a hunch it was bad.
Talstar Pro was one of 3 main insecticides that we used in Pest Control as an exterminator. Great choice for insect control. On your exterior 3 ft up & 3 ft out around the base of your building you can use Termidor SC or Taurus SC(same product with active ingrdient but cheaper than Termidor). In the fall we would treat the foundation again, along with the eaves, around the windows, and any other gapped exterior spot for box elder bug & asian lady beetle control going into winter. We used Oneguard for that fall treatment.
Awesome. Thanks for the info
I did this exact thing on my 30x40 shop roll up door. Helped a TON. That door used to be a heat/cold PUMP. air in front of it was ether rolling up or down with hot or cold air.
Now is it is 100 plus on the outside it is something like 72 on the inside of the door.
I hate having to fix other people f-up crap. Been doing it all my life at work and at home.
I think its a good fit for a pole barn. That little bit makes a difference
The most impressive thing is how you ran wifi over a cable. But seriously, I love this build, and it was a fun video, thanks
Since spray foam can expand into more than 1/4", you can cut the foam board to be even looser, and just use a couple chunks of foam on the bottom as spacers/shims to hold it up. This will also mitigate the need to cut the spray foam and expose those cells. Or, if you use a foam gun and have really good technique, you can lower the output of the gun and deliver only the perfect amount to the joint such that none comes out. But I think it's easier to just cut the foam loose, fit it easily, and blast the butt joint with foam. Keep up the great videos!
That's exactly how i unload my pile of foam boards too!! Might even sneak in a quick nap while I'm down there as well.
I tried watching this while I was painting some baseboard trim.
It is impossible to just listen to your channel. Everyone of them is a must watch also. You just don’t know what you are gonna do next. I actually LOL when you pulled the insulation board on to yourself out of the truck!!
I was almost crushed. Keystone Girl just walked right by.
You should’ve hollered Yee-Yee instead Help. At least you could’ve had a beer while you were trapped.😁 And some people wonder why there are building inspectors. Merry Christmas and Be Safe.
@@allenbrown7820 hah! Your right. That definitely would have got her attention
Exactly, if you only listened ya wouldn't know why Kyle is yelling Damn-it. lol
I've been thinking of spray insulation on my "shouse" but its messy, costs a bit, hard to do it yourself when I've never done Spay Insulation..., I like your share on this subject and I enjoyed your candor and humor. Nice work! Thank you.
Thank you and good luck with your project
I've been doing pest control for 24 years, good job with the tallstar. Good product and you applied it well !. For best control of lady bugs and stink bugs, spay exterior of buildings around late September. Great video !
Thank you! That stuff has been working great for me over the years. Thanks for the pointer
I have several tools where I like to keep metal and plastic chips out of the motor. I use a n 8,25 'Skillsaw' for cutting metal and I found that I could use a roll of electrical tape and a piece of the 'sock' from a 4" perforated drain pipe to put a rough filter over the air intake gills on the saw. I've used two inexpensive table saws to rip panels as shown here. I did not use the 'sock' on the first table saw, but I did on the second table saw. The second saw is still running. The first is not. Foamdust is hell on the motors. It is very effective as an insulation. So much so, that it causes the motors to overheat very quickly. I found that a sawsall with a coarse blade, a straight 2x4, and two Quick Clamps is faster than the table saw. Once you set up the 2x4, you can prop the panel up in a way where you can set the saw in place and pull the trigger, letting gravity do most of the work for you. trying to ride herd on those big panels pushed over a small tablesaw can be a pain.
EPS stands for expanded polystyrene.
That was a good idea separating the reflected surface of the insulation as the radiant heat needs a gap of 1" to be reflected back into the building.
Previous carpenters seemed like real pros lol. It’s incredible to see how poorly other people build. Nice to see the neat, tidy professional install of the foam board
Thanks Adam. Definitely wasnt the carpenters that helped with your lean to. Has that thing collapsed yet?
@@SpicerDesignsLLC "Yet"....🤣🤣
One point to note about filling gaps with spray foam, if the gap is deep you may not get complete fill. Latest tech is expanding foam tape round all four side, guaranteed fill of gaps.
wow, good find, looks great now, Thanks for sharing...
Great video, just discovered you and subscribe right away! You got practical application, great way to break it down, and have a lot of fun doing it. Outstanding!
Thanks! Glad you enjoyed it. I try to keep the videos somewhat entertaining.
It's a good thing you used insect spray before you installed the foam board because we used the same board in a fish house and the insect went behind the paneling and ate the foam. We wondered where the white beads were coming from until we removed the paneling. Back then we used 1/2" tuff-r-board, which has foil on both sides, to insulate the fish house. On the coldest days that you want to fish you can shut the heater off and sit in your short sleeve shirt in the fish house, beautiful stuff.
I'm doing the same in my shed office. I used metal tape to keep the foam board in place. I'm also cover the wood with the tape to help with thermal bridging. I almost have it all done. Looks like an airplane in there but it's super warm. Thinking about using fiberglass insulation also.
Try mylar bubble wrap over the top.
It makes a much more effective thermal break.
@Peter-jo3wt I use that in the shop part of the shed. I lived in Alaska and saw it used up there. It works surprisingly well.
Probably too late but if you use strapping before you put your finish wall up you will still get your reflective value from the foil face. Did this to an old cape with 2x6 rafters with 2 layers of 2 in.foil board. Ripped some blocks to bump the foil flush with inside of rafters allowing a proper vent behind. Sealed everything with foil tape strapped and drywalled. Did this so I wouldn't lose ceiling height and gave me a 28.8 (2×14.4) r value.
Thanks for the tip about the foam gun I would not have ever purchased one without seeing one in action. I can see it would be a very handy tool to have.
It’s definitely one of my favorites tools
Thanks for providing a link to the spray foam gun. I need one of those. I'm tired of trying to plug up the tubing after each time I use it and then wasting half a can on top of that when it gets clogged up. Hmm, it took me to amazon, but didn't take me to the item. Ok, so the link farther down worked. Thanks.
I will say this. You don't miss a trick. You are very detail oriented. Excellent job. Like Doug said. Can't just listen. Definitely have to watch. Always appreciate the humor.
Thanks Roy!
It's a good thing you're a professional.
I did exactly what you just did a few years ago. Table saw, shop vac and spray foam gun. Only thing different, and be glad you had it, was the 3/4" on the outside. I had the ribs in the steel siding to deal with getting behind the posts.
That spray foam gun is worth every penny paid for it. Works amazing!
Amateur tip, lol. Gumout carb and choke cleaner cleans the foam up as good as the great stuff cleaner. Acitone is what it is.
Great with the hack saw blade. I used a multi tool with a DULL blade.
Nice video, comedy appreciated 👍
Thanks for the extra tips. I think it will be plenty sufficient for a barn
@@SpicerDesignsLLC By far. Our house is in the pole barn taking up a 30x30 corner. I had the metal roof professionally spray foamed on the outside. That's amazing. Rain has to be really hard to begin to hear it.
2" spray foam on top. 2x8 joists on the trusses with 1 1/2" foam board under them and I blew fiberglass into the cavity. Metal siding/roofing covers the foam board.
@@markchidester6239 dang thats got to be efficient
So you did the foam board right against the metal? I dont have anything but bare metal currently.
@@thecovelife5793 in the walls, yes. Found it best to leave a gap between the panels and the framing. I used the spray foam gun to fill the gap.
EPS = Expanded Poly Styrene. A variant version of styrofoam. White beaded = common "beer cooler" foam. Pink and blue building foam common to Home Depot, Lowe's and other building supply stores, sheet is very similar material but would not be as good for flotation as the white beaded version.
The metalized backing on yours helps protect the foam from UV and acts as the vapor barrier for the pink or blue, since they don't seal as well as the white beer cooler foam.
Styrofoam is actually EXP foam Extruded Poly-Styrene the green, pink or blue ridged board foam used under concrete slabs. Lots of people call EPS styrofoam, incorrectly.
The third type of construction board foam is Polyiso. Thats the one with a foil face embedded and is yellow in color.
get the tips for the spray nozzle, it makes application and cleaning 10x better. couple bucks
You are too funny in addition to a great educator. Thanks for the edumacation 😉 and the laughter.
Thanks i appreciate it. Glad you enjoyed the video and humor
Hey! I am curious how you plan to do your roof? Great vid!
Nice work on the exterior insulation board!
Table saw can stir up a lot of insulation dust, a Bread Knife works really well
I had the shop vac hooked up to it. Sucked it all up. Most of it.
You hooked me with the Elvis karate move at 0:30 lol, classic!
That hacksaw trick is awesome.
OMG…the keystone girl wise cracks are hilarious…dude, don’t change your delivery it is spot on! (That doesn’t mean content, just delivery) 😬 I kid, thank you for taking extra time to make these videos 👍
Thanks Lance! I appreciate that
Good timing. I have an installation project coming up and there were some great tips. I will try unloading the foamboard from the truck one bundle at a time. wouldn't want to follow over or anything.
Hah! Ya learn from my mistakes
That same PolyPro insulation from Lowe's is $21.26 a sheet here in Western Washington. Wish I could get your price. The Pole Barn is looking great.
Sounds like im in the right spot for the poly pro. Some people commented that it was upper 30’s by them.
@@SpicerDesignsLLC When I heard $10ish a sheet I was like "whaaaat?" Checked my Lowes and its $22.47 a sheet. Oof. Looking to build my own shop so the title grabbed my attention. Your humor and commonsense got you a like and subscribe man, great video!
@thegman2484 thank you! And yes ive seen a lot of significant price variations in the comments. Not sure why it was so cheap in southern indiana.
@@SpicerDesignsLLC $17 in mid-michigan
$23.98 in Eastern OK. what the heck.
I totally LMAO when you "dang it!" on the table saw. When ever I do stuff like this I exclaim "Stupid Machine!" Great job and I will do this on my over the garage space.
Great video! Learning while grinning is a good combo. Thanks for posting this really helped me decide my choice for insulating my garage. Similar construction including "creative engineering" features like under sized fasteners or wiring that did not meet the amp load for different circuits.
Ladybugs and stink bugs by the thousands. I feel your pain. You designed and executed this solution EXACTLY as I plan to do mine. Well done. You even got the bug proofing right. Spray foam is a highly preferred solution but so dang expensive. Plus the added strength it adds but alas, big bucks. I also plan an “interior stud wall” that will sit between the vertical posts and will likely go with regular old fiberglass insulation (ease/cost). An alternative is the blown in insulation that is sprayed through a screen and will fill the void better. Great video of an alternative lower cost method.
Thank you!
as i insulate our metal pole shed i have been writing the measurments on the walls or posts in sharpie markers for easy reference. i just picked up a bunch of harbor freight led shop lites for it at 17 $ each is pretty good buy lights have been in a year now (shop work in progress) no problems with them so far. the little plastic hacksaw handles might work good for the trimming up easier on hands maybe ?? fun vid dont get buried to deep in foam board:)
Great video, Kyle. This is a video I'm going to remember for when I have saved enough $$ to insulate my garage and my big 40x60. I never would have thought about that Great Stuff gun. That's genius.
Thanks buddy. Im sure im not the first one to do it but it works great. You’ll have quite the project with that barn… pretty big.
Good to know. I was told to keep foam board on the inside of the girts. I have typical steel siding.
when I built my 48x72 shop two years ago by myself pretty much it too me 6 months with concrete over 88 yards....anyway all the authority people that did not know said spray foam and nothing else. Got a price 6000 grand even how does that even happen an even number estimate. Looked a the foam board and at the time the spray was a third of the spray. That's what i am using, I paint the panels with house paint white and cut them to fit using 2x2 and screws to hold them up, you don't see the wood its under the foam. I have scissor truss and did not want the mess on my trusses, so this works so much cleaner and cheaper and still warm. I just priced the board you use and 2 inch is a third of the foam board. Heading out to try you way on some other area's the walls we will see if paint sticks just have to be careful, but it should be great thanks
Ya spray foam is pricey. Sounds like you had quite the project. Good luck with the rest of your insulating.
I did the same method with 2” x4’x8’ factory seconds foil faced polyiso for $20 ea. & 3” x4’x8’ for 30 ea.
One could have laid the eps over the beams and sealed it with foam, and left an 1.5 inch sealed air gap would have given you some more r value.
Talstar needs to be applied regularly. pesticides are designed to break down over time. Diatomaceous eatmrrh in the wall will kill bugs for a long time.
OSB on wall s for sure, but I would use Delta rib metal on the ceilings. Do the math, its cheapest, most durable, and maintenence free.
FYI I like to use a really dull multi tool blade or even a scraper blade on the multi tool itself for trimming the spray foam.
Pole barns and houses, it's more about eliminating air infiltration than 'R' values. Framing lunber has an 'R' value of '1' per inch, so every 8' of your perimeter walls have the approximate equivalentvof 16 square feet of area that has an 'R' value of 1.5, plus about another R for the air film. Thermal energy moves like water and electricity, via the path of least resistance, so when your done, get a FLIR survey (you'll be able to coubt every framing member through the energy transfer). The poisoning of your space with pseticides is absolute genius. I hear RoundUp is really good for kids too.
Goldblat makes some wicked insulation knives.
Curious what you did about that giant heat sinknthat you're standing on. Most pole buildings that have a SOG also have bare edge concrete w/ no thermal break or under slab insulation, so lots of heat to warm that slab and about a foot of earth under it.
You are entertaining. 🙂
Thinking about doing this in my shop just to get it tightened up the rest of the way. That foam gun is amazing as I've wasted good product before due to only needing about half the can at one time. Thanks for the tips! Dude, that foam unloading sequence had me dying! I appreciated the humor. Liked and subbed.
Thanks buddy! The foam gun is awesome. I try to keep things somewhat entertaining on the channel. Some people dont think its funny and they always make a point to let me know. Glad you like it.
Just a safety concern, specific to flammability... EPS is flammable and toxic when it burns. Being careful with flame and ignition, of course...good idea to also have fire control devices within easy reach
Also more air and moisture permeable.
What a nut-case, just like me!! Same temperament too. I like your ideas.
Hah! Thank you.
Hell Yeah! I love the way you pay attention to detail.
Thanks buddy! I try
Thanks for the hacksaw blade tip, that should work way easier than the long extendable "click" knifes. I have used this method with the XPS and polyiso foam boards quite a bit, it works great. I have found, especially with the thicker foam sheets, that I like to have at least 1/4 inch to 3/8" gap around the foam board to easily get the tip of the insulation gun into, that way the foam fills the whole void and you aren't trying to follow a thin gap that is easy to spray the foam onto the surface of the panels instead. Just what i have found, others mileage may vary. Enjoy your videos as always, have a good one!!👍
Thanks for the suggestions
GINZU style cheap knives are great too - holes - posts - wire etc.
For some reason the cussing had me in tears 😂😂😂😂😂
Good video and liked your presentations, especially you telling us the cost of materials. Your humor definitely made me subscribe! Good luck, look forward to your next video.
Thanks for the sub and feedback.
Kyle, also wanted to mention, at the 11:06 mark, your reference to the spray foam.. You gotta 'stutch' it in first to get 'stickage' before it 'splooges' out!....
"Come- on Man" ...splane yerself!
Nice job tho. Happy Wife, happy...? ...You know the thing!
Your a good source of info to advise a guy like me (I could have been the guy that did the first construction) to get help insulating my finished 3 car garage. Thanks so much for helping with my anger management at the thought of doing this job. Oh and the facula tick went away.
Haha! I hope it was somewhat helpful. Good luck with your projects.
I see you did this a while back. Wondering if there's anything you'd change about it? I'm in process of same thing, shop makeover. Planning same 1.5" foam board, metal barn panels walls and ceiling to brighten it up. Same 1.5" in ceiling. It feels like a good plan, good to find others doing the same thing. 27 years with nothing but the 3/4 exactly like yours, needs a facelift for some new equipment :)
@@radamus210 i havent heated the barn yet but for what i use that barn for its perfect and cost effective.
a fined toothed hand trowel makes a nice flush cut saw.
excellent episode. I'll be using it myself
Some of this stuff I knew and other tricks I didnt. I'm very detail oriented as well so your detail work looks great. I immediately subscribed because of the times you got upset, (because it reminds me of me), or had mishaps that really made me laugh! Again, because everyone has them, including me, and man did I laugh! So Thank You for that!
Thanks for the sub and glad you got some laughs out of it. I try to keep things entertaining. Ill have the framing video coming soon. Should be pretty funny
Talstar P is an excellent and safe product.
sounds like the Amish barns built back home, they never had a consistent spacing, even the houses wouldn't. But as an electrician I doubt you've seen too many on the job.. =) only other suggestion I would have said, too late now, is to "glue" the poly boards together with the good stuff, as they sit behind the vertical beams, there is still some thermal bridging in that small gap between the poly boards and the inside face of the vertical beams.
I'm actually doing a similar style install. 1.5" between the gerts and adding a 2" layer over top with offsetting the seams. Then putting .5" osb over that. I'm not looking to hide the posts. I just want the wall space to mount things and get stuff off the floor. My barn is a 48'x64' with 16' walls. I'm not looking forward to getting insulation up on the trusses.
Thats a big project
Dry air gap has an R-value of 3.6 per inch of air so include that in cal of insulation
Thanks for sharing, I didn't know that.
You had me in tears when you unloaded the foam from your truck 😂
Been doing this in Canada for years. Now do this in New Hampshire
Only issue is polystyrene effectiveness r values drop as the cold surface drops.
love your staged? accident unloading the foam!!
Handyman comedy: this is great!
😂
Nice work, I like the fact that the lack of glove ware does not bother you. I appreciate your dedication. Those &*^%in splinters hurt! I have had more success with foam board in flat wall assemblies. 2 14in of board will be great. You took a soso building and made it great. Recycling buildings is the way to go.
Thank you! Its definitely looking a lot better.
you sound like me working on my barn. It's amazing how many inanimate objects are Mother effers!
spray foam would insulate the bare cross members that allow heat and cold indoors.
I like this guy. Don’t ask me what EPS stands for cause I really don’t give a shit. I just subscribed to this channel
Thanks Hammer time! I like to keep it light here. Hope your enjoy our content and thanks for the sub.
That's how I like my foam insulation and my woman........Cheap and Effective........
Have a detached garage and i am looking at options to insulate. I want to insulate the ceiling first and i do not plan on putting sheetrock. Plan on painting the trusses and everything black to have an industrial look. Can this foam board be painted? Do you think it would be a good option to keep the garage from getting so hot in the summer? Looking at spray foaming this spring but open to foam board.
Not sure if it can be painted. I dont see why not. Any kind of insulation is definitely going to help keep it cool.
What would you do if the walls were bare metal with no previous insulation between the wall and wood??? We moved into a place with bare interior walls.
You can do the same thing. Its really better that way. I have somewhat of a double vapor barrier which isnt ideal.
The joist hangers over the wires was meant for a future heater.
The hacksaw blade action close up - I get it.
Katt Williams approved
SPLOOGE !! LOL
Great video as usual man!
Cheers from Canada 🇨🇦
Where were the building inspectors?? Good thing there hasnt been a severe wind storm before you bought it!!
Been standing for 20 years and survived tornados. If your referring to the truss span, snow load is more of a factor than the wind. We barely get snow in Southern IN.
that's hilarious. good call starting over.
Great to see another tradie with the common sense to unplug their stuff to make sure kids dont accidentally turn it on. 👌
Thanks! You never know. Kids love buttons
Pin nailer... I'll have to try that sometime...never! LOL!!
In the spirit of buster keaton....vgg gone wild..! Lol
I enjoyed this video.....Thanks
AMVIC makes EPS Silverboard in many thicknesses and it comes as 4'x8' or 9' at R5 per inch. 1.5" costs $0.94 per sq ft CDN
EPS is expanded (by steam) poly styrene which is less costly than XPS (extruded) as you mentioned but EPS also retains its R value over the years and XPS does not..... XPS can take on water which would be a problem on the exterior PACIFIC ICF
I use a long handle razor scrapper remove the “spluge” from spray foam 😂
Videos like these keep osha up at night
How this dude is still alive is a miracle
Im the only one that gets notified when you leave a comment. Ive worked construction my whole life. Ive got everything under control.
We live in the “Age Of The Drywall Screw”… Everybody seems to think they are a structural connector. Cracks me up every time I see them used improperly. Most people don’t understand the issue of the hardness of steel and how if the hardness is too high, it can’t be used structurally because it can’t handle any sheer impact or load. I have seen tico nails that have been under excessive strain in a hanger application for many years, and when they are pulled out, they have bent over time but not sheered off. And that’s what you want, my friends!
Simpson strong tie sells screws for use with their products. Actual drywall screws, probably not a good idea. But there are screws made for every application and have much higher holding capacity than nails.
@@Basketofdeplorables173yup. I use those screws all the time anymore. And they are purpose designed screws that are the proper hardness for the job. I was just saying that steel hardness is often not understood by many people, and it really needs to be.
Yeah same with screws. They are tight and don't pull put but have garbage sheer strength. They don't bend very well. They snap/break under sheer pressure. I only use screws (ESPECIALLY drywall screws) under almost zero load or something somewhat temporary.
Drywall screws are cheap for a reason...
EPS = expanded foam - basically Styrofoam same as packing material that you get when you break it apart those white balls that stick to everything.
Thanks
COOP
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Good work, that's really some ..Great Stuff😄 it will be nice once its finished.
use the medal on the bottom up 36in hight because then you can spry the floor with out worry about getting your walls wet and it work best if you do car work in so o you can spry the floor and the dirt and s tuff wont stick to the walls i have enven done in a resuraunt because the ower was getting tire of fixing the wall were kiods kik the walls and it made a lot easyer for his worker to cleand the walls too
You sound like me when I'm working in the garage. "You blonkin rattle feet sturcklefrat smick melly womp walker drop dumb fratten house snickle fifen" ....
Haha. You dont even realize your saying it either