How To Insulate A Metal Building Tear Proof Foam & Foil Insulation - Easy Vapor Barrier - NO Bubbles
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- Опубліковано 25 чер 2024
- Note: This is the OLD INSTALL METHOD. We NOW have 62" wide products to run up/down on the face of the framing for a much easier installation. See NEW Install Video Here: • Metal Building Condens...
www.BlueTexInsulation.com - How to install insulation into your metal building. Cool down and control moisture, condensation, sweating. #DIY #Insulation #MetalBuilding #VaporBarrier
Our most popular application for www.BlueTexInsulation.com is how to install in existing metal buildings. In this video we show step by step how to do it right. When complete, it will be like a GIANT TREE INSTANTLY COVERED THE BUILDING (that's the radiant barrier working). And, make a vapor barrier and air barrier. The building will be warmer in the winter AND the BlueTex™ Insulation will reduce or eliminate condensation inside the building. Let us send you some FREE Samples of BlueTex™ Insulation today. bluetexinsulation.com/pages/r...
Link to short version of this video: • Insulation And Vapor B...
Chapters:
0:00 How To Install Insulation In Existing Tubular Steel Buildings
1:20 Expectations - Cooler / Warmer And Control Condensation
2:30 Challenging Areas - How To Attach In Corner And Gable End
4:40 Attaching Wood Strips In Corners And Gable Ends
8:42 Installing The First Piece
10:00 How To Attach In Corners
10:25 Second Piece / Overlap / Tape Tab
11:08 Corner Bracing
13:37 Finishing Up
13.53 Splices - When You Come To The End Of A Roll
14:28 Send Us YOUR Pictures and Video - Навчання та стиль
Ask your www.BlueTexInsulation.com questions here! Or, offer advice on how to improve the install method.
Nice video very informative. I'd like to know how this product compares to Prodex total insulation. They're claiming an R value of around 17 I think. I don't see how such a thin product could provide that great of an r value. Snake oil or what?
@@allforwheelsgarage Uh, common sense tells you NO product that is 1/4" has and R-Value of 17. Here is our info and the truth about R-Value: bluetexinsulation.com/pages/r-value-of-bluetex-insulation
Hey there, I have been watching a few of your videos and been on your website. My metal billing was just built and now I need to insulate it. Any interest in possibly doing a UA-cam collaboration? Thank you
Sincerely,
Nathan Porter
Thanks for the detailed info ....
Outstanding video
Best video I’ve seen of how to do this!
Great Video
great and very thorough video! thank you!
Thanks. This is actually an older video. Now we have 50" and 62" wide product which works better running vertically and all the seams are on the metal framing. Check it out here: bluetexinsulation.com/pages/existing-construction-metal-framed-buildings-installation
My husband is an insulator by trade. He brought a roll home from a job that ended and was going to be scrapped. Very versatile stuff. I made a coozy for his coffee flask with it (lol), and we've used it in our shop and covered our ductwork with it. It's helped a lot.
Thanks for the comment. We constantly hear from customers about all the "other" uses. Send us a picture to the support email address and we will share it!
Thank you for not claiming unrealistic R-values
Appreciate the comment.
Great
Thanks for the great video Ed, it made the job simple. We are very happy with the 2mm pro in our new garage but the screws were a pain and about a third would not go into the metal and one of our rolls had half the tape missing. We got shorted screws on our order and waited another week to get them but it is installed and after a bit of aggravation with screws and taping every seam it works perfectly 😊 we are very happy with how it came out and how much cooler our metal garage is 😁 ambient temp at noon yesterday was 80, outside wall was 103 and inside wall was 82 the product works great
Thanks for the comment. First, I did a search for Deborah Sharp and could not find an order. So, hopefully we "made it right". If not, PLEASE email the support email and we will take care of you. And, I'd like more info please. Was this a standard tubular steel building or something else? Normally the screws work fine. Some older buildings the steel is thicker and can cause the screws to burn out/dull when installing. Also, you don't want to use an impact drill/screw gun. Like I said, please tell us more. As for the tape? UGH. This is frustrating, since there is no way to check on this while they are rolled up. And, during production, the tape sometimes breaks or the rolls run out and sections get missed. We are working with our processor on getting this better. Thanks again for your business and comment!
I am glad I am getting my insulation with my building install. It’s worth the $2400 extra I am paying
I agree. If at all possible, you want to install www.BlueTexInsulation.com DURING the build. But, this is the best option for existing buildings.
Just watched a video installing a similar product vertically between studs using firring strips. I think I like your method better as it covers the studs, creating a complete vapor seal, and leaves a larger air gap.
Thanks, Yes this method creates a complete envelope. Did you see our new 62" wide products to run up/down on 60" wide framing? Much easier installation. bluetexinsulation.com/collections/frontpage/products/bluetex-pro-2mm-super-wide-62-inch
I have order this and will be installing once the electrical is finished. Thanks for the video, picked up what I hope will be good tips. You mentioned unscrewing the bottom end of the angled supports, cutting the slits and reattaching. I'm assuming you do the same thing for the top end as well as the horizontal supports in the center? Thanks!
It's your choice whether you go below or behind the supports. Some people like the look of the corner/top supports showing, others don't.
Considering purchasing your product for my newly built all metal garage. My question is, can I finish the walls with say lumber, 1inch board planks over top the bluetex? my plan was to take 1 in x 10 in planks and run them vertical all the way down the walls. Great instructional video by the way. answered lots of my questions
Yes, after you install www.BlueTexInsulation.com you can put any type of "interior cladding" against it you want. We have many customers use OSB, drywall, sheetrock or TNG. Be sure to check out the newer videos with the 50" and 62" running vertically on the sidewalls. It's a much easier and better install method.
Hello, good video, I live in South Florida and I have a metal workshop, it is very hot here, what do you recommend to lower the temperature inside the workshop. Thank you
A couple of options: If you JUST want to reflect heat (like a tree over the building) the Foil/White product is great and the lowest cost: bluetexinsulation.com/products/single-sided-radiant-barrier-foil If you want a "cleaner" look the BlueTex 2mm Product is the way to go: bluetexinsulation.com/products/bluetex-pro-2mm-super-wide-62-inch Feel free to call the office to discuss further. There are more variables. Also, be sure to get free sample kit from www.BlueTexInsulation.com
Great video,,, except you skipped any details about the only part of my building I want to do this,,,, the ceiling. Lol.
I am only concerned with stopping condensation dripping on my equipment, have no plans at this time to heat/cool.
Should I leave a gap at the peak of the ceiling for ventilation? How do you recommend securing it where it meets the wall if I do ceiling only?
Great question. If you ONLY want to do the roof, you would do the same install except tie it into the sidewalls to try to prevent any warm-moist air from INSIDE the building from getting to the cold metal roof. You do not want to open the ridge. You still should have some air coming from the drip edge to the ridge vent between the www.BlueTexInsulation.com insulation and the metal roof.
Is it important to seal all openings to the outside (like at side wall corners) or should these be left open to allow any condensation between the insulation and wall to evaporate?
Great Question! For this application, you WANT airflow between the BlueTex and the metal. This is what's called a "Back Ventilated Cladding". Airflow between the metal and the foil side will help remove heat and any moisture. It's the same concept that we use to put a ventilated space behind, brick, stone, siding etc.
Planning on ordering this stuff soon. Is it best to install this product before the electric is up or is best to wait till after. What yields the best looking results?
Generally best to install electric first and run all the conduit next to or behind the face of the framing. Then only boxes are seen. If you call/email the office got some great pics from a customer to share and will be making new video in next couple days.
Need a instructional comment with example of bluetex around windows
Details on windows here: ua-cam.com/video/EslctRk2fYo/v-deo.html
I see your description says " not bubble foil " looks similar, is there a substantial difference?
Huge difference in quality. Go to www.BlueTexInsulation.com and get a free sample kit.
Great video
After the install will there be still condensation in between the metal and the bluetex? If yes then all the wood used at the edges will grow mold.
Or there won't be any condensation at all?
Could you please clarify? Thanks in advance
Great question. It's all about the volume of air. Typically in a bare metal building you have the potential for ALL the moisture in the air inside the building to come in contact with the cold metal and condense. This can literally make it rain in the building. However, in the space between the foam and the metal the air is cooler and much less volume and is probably ventilated. So, just like a tree leaf, there is some potential for some condensation, but not near the volume as inside the building. And, when the sun comes out, this space is going to heat up/cook/dry really fast. Wood can get wet and dry a thousand times just like a towel. It's when it STAYS wet for an extended period of time we have mold, rot etc. So, the short answer is "No, this should not be an issue".
@@BlueTexInsulation thank you
Insulation is connected pretty tight. However, seems like moisture in the air will get behind and without any ventilation, doesn't this create a perfect environment for mold?
I've also been wondering about ventilation for the insulation under a mobile home.
Normally, you "ventilate" the space between the metal and the www.BlueTexInsulation.com These buildings are usually pretty "leaky" with gaps on the ribs, gap between the wall and the roof and at the ridge.
Wouldnt you get moisture build up between the walls and the insulation? Im trying to figure out how to insulate my steel building.. i will have a small furnace in it for the winter and nothing for the summer(in michigan). Wont the walls sweat behind the insulation?
Typically the moisture is caused from the warm-moist air INSIDE the building coming in contact with the cold metal. When you install www.BlueTexInsulation.com this prevents this air from getting to the colder metal. Under the right conditions you may still get a LITTLE condensation between the BlueTex and the metal panels. But, this is no big deal. The sun combined with airflow between the BlueTex and the metal quickly drys out any moisture. Things get wet and then dry all the time. This is OK. Problems occur when things STAY WET without drying out.
In this video above which one of your Insulation did you use Pro 2mm 62" OR was it 6mm 50" ?
This is actually the OLD style 6mm 50" with the tabs. We have eliminated the tabs and moved the double sided tape to the foil side and are only using 3" white tape to seal the seams. It's a cleaner and more secure seam. www.BlueTexInsulation.com
Could you then add any type of walling like drywall on top of the Blue Tex Insulation?
Sure, drywall, plywood, OSB, TnG whatever want to the interior to look like. We have even had a couple customers actually paint the white side of the www.BlueTexInsulation.com
Wouldn’t the screw heads from the insulation effect a good smooth fit with using osb or drywall over them? Especially where the seems would likely be where all the screw are?
Not really. The screws/washers will compress the www.BlueTexInsulation.com a little making it pretty flush. Will it be perfect?? Maybe/maybe not. Usually it's for barns, sheds, garages, airplane hangars etc. where it's not a big deal.
Does the foil side face the inside of the building or toward the wall?
To keep the building cooler and reflect heat, install facing out with the white side facing in. www.BlueTexInsulation.com
Does this type of insulation help with both heating and cooling the inside of the building?
www.BlueTexInsulation.com definitely helps. It's really made for buildings that are either non-conditioned or semi-conditioned. Meaning you are never heating/cooling them or maybe heating/cooling occasionally as needed. Think of it as a LIGHT JACKET. For most barns, sheds, garages, airplane hangars, warehouses etc. it's all you need.
How about the condensation on the wood used inbetween the metal and insulation?
If installed this way there should be minimal condensation on the wood. But, that's ok. Wood can get wet and dry a thousand times and be fine. When the sun comes up it will dry out any moisture in the wood. It's when wood STAYS wet you have issues.
Can you glue the wood strip to the tubes instead of adding a bunch of holes where moisture can get though and into the tubes?
You are overthinking this. These buildings are never going to be 100% tight. The amount of air getting into the holes from drilling is not even measurable. If so, just put some caulk on before drilling to seal it up.
@@BlueTexInsulation That I maybe and you are 97% correct. But if I was to spray foam the building it would be 98% sealed up. May I ask how putting caulk on before I drill it is going to seal it up? Would the drilling process just remove the caulk
Nope, you just put a glob between the wood and the metal then screw through it. It's the same process we use when installing exterior sheathing to make an airtight wall.
Do you guys have any distributors in France?
Sorry, we do not have any distributors for www.BlueTexInsulation.com in France.
Can this product be used in a wood pole barn?
Yes, in fact this is pretty popular application for www.BlueTexInsulation.com either existing buildings here: bluetexinsulation.com/pages/existing-construction-wood-framed-buildings-installation or new construction.
I see some companies put the insulation over the framing then screw on the exterior metal panels? Is this method ok? Just curious 🙂
Yes, this works great. If you want the benefit of the radiant barrier, you need to create a small airspace between the foil and the metal. Here are the instructions: bluetexinsulation.com/pages/new-construction-metal-framed-buildings-installation
Would this product work for a metal roofed pergola in Arizona?
Yes, www.BlueTexInsulation.com would work great in a pergola. We recently had customer use it for this application and spray painted the white side with great results.
any videos on how to secure? We have monsoons here and the wind can be an issue, we have on of those ceder pergolas with the metal roof standard A frame all metal @@BlueTexInsulation
The www.BlueTexInsulation.com is super durable. I think using the screws and washers will work great. We cover and secure a bunch of wood crates with this material and it works great. bluetexinsulation.com/products/screw-washer-set-100-pieces
I weld in my garage. I'm sure weld spatter would melt it and make it ugly, but would I have to worry about it catching on fire?
Great question. You may consider installing like this video here: ua-cam.com/video/2UxPx9rPVpE/v-deo.html with the foil side facing INSIDE. The foil is PURE aluminum so it can handle SOME sparks. Not flying hot metal shards. We have had a couple customers install the foil facing IN in the spark risk areas and the foil facing OUT in the rest of the building. Call us at www.BlueTexInsulation.com to discuss further.
Good point,,, I installed Blue-Tex and then I went up 8 foot with 1/2 inch plywood over the bottom portion, I didn’t want a jack handle or bike falling over and putting a dent in the bldg,,,also it give you something to hang stuff on
Ho.We'd like to insulate a metal shed for a tiny guest house near Valdosta, GA Would you recommend this product or something else? (High humidity in summer time). Thx in advance.
Tough call. Really depends on how often you are cooling it and what your capacity (AC) is. Feel free to email us more info. www.BlueTexInsulation.com If you are only occasionally cooling, it may be perfect. If cooling 24/7 probably not.
my walls are 9 ft how much of a problem would it be to leave the last 1 foot undone
Really depends on your goal. If you primary goal is to reflect heat, then the more coverage the better. So, leaving 1 ft will reduce the effectiveness some but not much. If you are trying to control moisture/condensation, I assume you would leave the gap at the bottom. It really depends on your location, use etc.
Wonder how well this Blue Tex works on a shipping container.
How well does it work? It really depends on what your goal is to determine. If making a home, probably not. Storage, workshop, hunting cabin, etc. Probably will work great. Take a look here: bluetexinsulation.com/pages/insulating-non-conditioned-buildings-vs-conditioned-buildings
@@BlueTexInsulation yea ok, will then probably use rock wool for my container house and blue Tex for garage! Do you guy's ship to Indiana?
We offer FREE shipping to all of USA. www.BlueTexInsulation.com
What’s the R value
bluetexinsulation.com/pages/r-value-of-bluetex-insulation
At the end of the video-splicing two pieces: Couldn't you just cut them To meet in the middle of the stud and then run the screw in between them and the attached washer would suck them both down? also, the tape, can someone not buy a roll of that and just tape the seam and then screw them down-that would make a good clean seam. Is this not a solution?
You can definitely do it your way. I think unless you use some double sided tape on the metal and figure out a way to pull tight from both directions at the same time it's going to be tricky. Yes, you can buy the tape only. We sell a bunch in both 3" and 6" wide. bluetexinsulation.com/products/white-tape
You said in the intro, that you have solutions on your website if I want to insulate for R value (like to air condition a work shop). After watching the excellent video to the end, I went to the website and found no such solution (if it's there, it's not easy to find). RU sure?
You are right. Here is some info: bluetexinsulation.com/pages/insulating-non-conditioned-buildings-vs-conditioned-buildings The big stuff is still in process. Send us an email and ask for info on combing foil with foam and other insulation products for fully conditioned buildings. We are in the process of moving to a larger location so we are behind on the content.
@@BlueTexInsulation Requested the free sample(s?) on your website. Is the move going to delay that process? Thanks for the link.
@@OnHoldAt50 No delay. You should have received confirmation email sample request was received.
The 1x4 running just below where the roof and walls meet in the computer graphic appears to be connected to the face of the metal square tubing. Wouldn't that cause an uneven surface for the insulation to mount since it also attaches to the same tubing surface? Or how is that 1x4 mounted?
Yes, mounted on front. It will make a small bump in the corner you will barely notice.
@@BlueTexInsulation use metal 2x4s with the 2s cut at the posts to make flush?
R value?
bluetexinsulation.com/pages/r-value-of-bluetex-insulation
looks so thin, the R value mustbe very low, not some thing id use herein our 40 below
Thanks for the comment. Yes, it's pretty thin (about 1/4") and really designed for either non-conditioned or semi-conditioned buildings. If you are fully heating a building, it's not the right product. If you are just trying to keep above freezing, usually works great, but 40 below is way out of range. More info on R-Value here: bluetexinsulation.com/pages/r-value-of-bluetex-insulation
@@BlueTexInsulation i didnt think so as the insulation for my steel building came in 200 foot rolls in an R20 and 4 feet wide, 16" of insulation and heavy duty woven foil, that you used these plastic pin to push though and snap om to the ends of the bolts the bolts the whole building together, , a 40x60 with 18 foot high walls cost $8000 cnd for the insulation