1996 RL Rear Wheel Bearing Replacement -EricTheCarGuy
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- Опубліковано 30 вер 2012
- Visit me at: www.ericthecarguy.com/
I get lots of requests to just do straight up repair videos like this all the time and I'm always happy when I can oblige. This wheel bearing replacement is fairly typical for a FWD vehicle so much of what you see here can be applied to other FWD vehicles. There are variations in the way the bearing attaches to the hub however the principals are pretty much the same. You should not need a press to do this, just some basic hand tools and sockets will do, air tools make it easier but you don't need them to get this done. As you can see in the video I ran into trouble but the method I employed can be used if you find yourself in a similar situation.
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ETCG
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The pre-lift, pre-beard Eric days, videos still helping people 8+ years later.
Videos like these are what I like about watching Ericthecarguy. He doesn't just show best case scenarios, if things don't go perfectly, he takes us along on the adventure.
I wasn't even going to watch this past 3 minutes but now you got me. The plot thickens and I had to see how it turned out :D
Love the line as he puts on the hub nut "there is a torque spec for this, but I have never used it"!
Eric is back in his groove.. not that he ever lost it..
Just a word of thanks for keeping this video up. Might have to do a similar job on a '92 Vigor in the future. I was specifically looking for a video that dealt with handling the inner bearing race staying on the spindle when the hub/bearing was removed. So...sorry that you had to deal with that, but happy that you showed it was not an insurmountable problem.
i am currently going to auto tech school at my high school and your videos have helped me more that you would think i just wanted to take the time to thank you for taking the time to make your videos and teach us something new.
I lived with that sound for more than 5 years on the back wheels of my Mitsubishi Mirage! Sold it few months ago, but nobody (mechanics) knew where that sound came from... Now I know, but it's too late! Thank you Eric! Great video!
"there's a torque spec,....... I've never used it" hahaha love the brutal honesty
These videos are just getting better and better Eric! Keep up the good work and thanks for providing so much help for everyone that needs it out there!
You're definitely my role model. Lol. I watch your videos literally every night, sometimes even re-watching some. You've taught me more then any of my auto teachers. Keep it up!!! :)
"theres a torque spec for this but i never used it" *brrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrt*
oh eric that made my day.
Eric, I have to say thank you for clarifying the "airplane noise" condition. I, a humble DIYer, once got into an argument with an ASE certified tech about this particular problem. He swore up and down that it was coming from the inside of my transaxle differential because he too did not feel any looseness in my RF hub assembly. I eventually told him thanks but no thanks, brought my car home, replaced the assembly, and the car was fine after that. (Twas a 97 Ford Taurus R.I.P.))
Thank you for the video Eric, I now feel comfortable to do my own bearing replacement on my 96 RL! It's been humming for about 3 months now.
I really miss the old videos :( takes me back to 2012 when i started wrenching in my old cars. Takes me back in time :(
Straight up repair videos are the best sort of videos. May they long continue. Peace!
It's been a while since you posted a vintage style Eric video. Thanks for coming home.
love your videos mate :) Am a new mechanic, and looking at some of your videos are really helpful for getting some tips! Thanks!
Glad to finally see a new repair video! Great vid!
Great short repair video! These are a lot of fun to watch and always informative.
Favorite phrase 'now it should come right off' don't know how many times I followed that with a long string of expletives.
Great start to this, as soon as you asked if we can hear an airplane sound a damn f-16 took off. Now back to the video...
Still loving your videos!! thanks
I like how convinent this video is, i just got this problem myself on my Volvo 960 -95 on the left rear side. It was abit harder for me to get it off though, because i have the Multi-Link setup. but fairly straight forward in general, thanks for the video!
I watch all of Eric and scotty's videos as they simplify things for the home mechanic and are great to see before you do yourself and you can pick up some handy tips from these pro's. I just add something really important. Every DIY basic tool kit should include Tools, Torque Wrench and feeler gauges plus for suspension, ball joint remover and for wheel bearings, a bearing slitter/pull kit ($30)ebay saves cutting and damaging spindles and you can reuse the outer part of bearing in the case of Hub bearing repack. Also Full Bearing puller kit ($75) for full hub bearing removal and replace. All these videos are great except they just tighten critical nut and drop the jack, It so important to torque all critical parts for couple reasons. First so part not undo or over tighten and strip off. Next for correct pressure like head gaskets, If manual says dry thread- DO that . If you lube it may apply more torque and over squish gasket or head and could lead to leaks/problems as head gasket is over compressed. Also bearings need to be seated and torqued while turning then usually a final small torques to provide pre load is used and pin put in and final check for play and free spin. Another important eg is CV joint outer nut. This is usually torqued to 200-300 NM to seat and provide long life to bearing in hub so guessing that is really bad idea. I have quality Torque wrenches but bought cheap Chinese one $14 that goes to 300 NM so i use only for CV nut as it has range so i can allow for slight inaccuracy of wrench and still stay within specs. All other smaller precise settings i use good wrench to get it exact. With pullers, ball joint splitters ect you want to lube threads as they are trying to pull something apart and kits are ruined by not lubing main pull bolt and nut used and pivots ect.. In all my years of servicing bearings and cars, i never had to readjust except when i repacking after eg 50-60K so going "by the books specs" is really the only safe way to go and assure long life and no failure from critical parts. Use the service manual and you never go wrong.
Bros ur awesome like straight up. Every detail every positive and negative side to things of what to and not to do.😎
Good video, very educational. Will be watching more if I have a problem. Thanks
A word on the parking brake shoe setup like this Acura. It's a really good design, as mentioned it prevents warping of the disc. I used to work on a Nissan that used a circular ratcheting mechanism for the parking brake (had rear discs) and the discs were constantly warping. The discs never even lasted as long as the pads.
Very good video. I have a 96 Accord and this will be very helpful. Thanks.
when ever you hear an airplane in your car, that means your wheel bearing is bad....lol
good to see you practice your problem solving skills many times they only show the easy clean parts version i never have that good luck
thanks for enabling this video internationally
I’m gonna have to do mine here soon! I plan on using those vise grips that have a chain attached!! Hope it works!
you should do a rwd axle bearing video sometime soon. I just r&r'd mine. Pain in the butt, but, when it's all done, no more noise or grinding feeling.
Eric is right about the wheel bearing noise. Mine was so bad, that the wheel could be tilted 5mm. If you measured it on the wheels outer diameter. But it was silent. Also interesting that I also had the problem with my right rear. The left rear is still fine. Still the original. 19 years old. Probably the right side gone bad because usually the right side of the road is bumpier and is more wet after rain. At least that's the case where I live.
Thank you, always was curious about doing these.
Nice vid man !!!
Thank you for making this video! I have a 97 Acura rl.
Sweet video man!
how do you feel about using an oven to head the drum and freezing the bearing to avoid using a press. it works very well except it seams like there would be damage to the lubricant in the bearing?
Thanks for this vid I have a 98 TL with the same problem I will be doing my own work now thanks again.
Great Video Eric!! Thanks!!
Thanks for your explanation; I was wondering that too!
Great vid !
I have an issue on a 97 Camaro. There is a high pitched metal on metal sound that emits from the driver side rear wheel area. I ONLY hear this sound when turning left. I have no ebrake pads on that side and brand new rotors/brakes on all 4 corners. This squeal was happening before and after the rotor/brake change. Could this be a bad bearing or hub?
I would like to see this done to an accord 90-97. This will deff help when I go to put 5 lug on my accord. Thanks eric!!!
I just work just on go-karts but i always got that problem that the inner ring of the bearing wont come off. And always do the same as you, give it a little cute and hit it whit a hammer. they always break. Nice video!
Hi Eric, Is there another way to get off the bearing without cutting it? Regards from Mexico
great vid!!
I have always just used a dremel cut off wheel to cut a groove in the race then use a cold chisel and whack it to cause it to crack on said groove. Works every time and no need to remove ebrake stuff.
Another great one, hey Eric if the inner race won't come off can you use a large pipe wrench? Thanks from Queens NY👍🏻
I always use the heat, as long as there is nothing too sensitive near the area, like brake hoses or abs sensors, but Erics way is directed at home mechanics who probably dont have oxy-acetylene torches at hand.
That's what I usually run into, in these "simple" jobs. And it's usually when I have to do both sides, one side always gives me trouble. And it's usually the last side I have to do.
Eric i watched your video and noticed it was an acura im needing to change my rear wheel bearings on a 1995 Ford areostar is the change similar or do you have a video for a Ford. thanks Eric
Is there a reason that he just put it on there dry without coating the axle with some grease or anti-seize to prevent the race from getting stuck next time?
Hey Eric, how can you distinguish the difference between a noisy transfer case and a wheel bearing? Any suggestions?
The Disk Brakes are normal brakes to stop the car. The other drum brake assembly on this car is for the emergency brake or parking brake only. Another car that uses this same setup is the newer Dodge Chargers and some others. I think they use that setup because the disc brakes with the emergency assembly typically would freeze up from rust lock and lock the wheel when they are used. Mainly like the GM rear disc brakes from 1989 to 2000+ were famous for that.
this video is helpful too me,thank you
I did this myself on a '99 Accord V6. The bearing was humming, and I thought it was the tires... Anyway, the bearing race, even though it was much thinner than on RL, stayed on the spindle after i removed the hub/bearing. I just used a bit of pulling to pull the hub off, and I used a chisel and a flathead screwdriver to mess the race so it would slide off the spindle.
The outer part of the disc is for the main braking system. It works exactly like you would expect a disc brake to function. The drum portion is for the parking brake, which uses a mini shoe setup, essentially the same design as a full drum brake system but smaller and usually missing a self adjuster.
I believe I may be having a wheel bearing issue. currently hear a noise (sounds kinda of like a humming sound) when slowing down to a stop, do not hear it when accelerating. my dad is a mechanic, we jacked it up on both sides in the rear & couldn't find a noise. it is a 2020 toyota yaris i assume its still under warranty should i just keep an eye on it or take it to dealer?
What about changing front wheel bearing? similar method?
ok so i have a 2000 Acura RL and something metal is scraping on the drivers rear side as i drive, it goes away as i speed up but as a let the car coast you hear it and when i apply the brakes its sounds away worse. i am aware i need pads on the back but i noticed the other rear wheel brake pads isnt as worn as this one. im not sure if its the wheel bearing or something is up with the pads or rotor
for the races, tried something simple lastly with brazing torch, propane, whatever......heat up a few...and take a channel lock...pulls right off...gave enough expansion to pull by the thickess part of the race
Very helpful thank you!
The Disc Brake is for stopping the car in motion. The Drum brake assembly here on this car is for the Emergency Brake or Parking Brake which is only used when the E-brake/ Parking brake is pushed and locked down into place. The newer Dodge Chargers and other cars use this setup. The E-Brake should last the useful lifetime of this car unless someone drives on it while engaged.
ive been having really loud whining at highway speeds in my accord, right rear wheel. and occasionally i will here a rattle/popping sound. no growling at low speed (that i can tell, i have an exhaust). but the major issue is when it rains, it makes this popping sound nonstop while im moving. when i slow the popping slows. would this be my bearing? the bushing looked good when i changed my suspension.
The drum brake is for the parking brake.
Some rear disc brakes include a way to actuate the caliper, some use drums inside the discs for the parking brake.
would it be a good or bad idea to use anti seize on the shaft?
I have a 04 Lincoln LS I am trying to change my rear hub bearings. I have a hub removal with slide hammer but the Hub still won't come off. Any suggestions
nice one! hardly find some one to work on acur hope u container it
Eric, I have a 2006 Chevy Colorado that's a 5 cyndiler. The truck has a anti theft system that keeps engaging from time to time. When this occurs,I have to wait ten minutes to restart. It is starting to be a hassle. Is there a way to override the anti theft system to prevent this issue from happening again?
These drum brakes are part of the mechanical parking/emergency brake system. The purpose is two-fold: Emergency brakes in the event of total brake failure, and to prevent hot brakes from seizing to the rotor after driving stop & go, then applying the parking/emergency brake. Calling it crappy eng. just because your cars don't have it is silly as it's a better, safer design.
This rotor can take off with slice hammer also?
I unstaked the nut with a flathead screwdriver, and used a long cheaterbar to tighten it until the stakemark lined up with the cutout in the spindle, and it worked great. I think I achieved the required 150 ft/lb... I only had one bearing fail after 145k miles. Now if only I could do my timing belt which is 45k miles overdue... :DD
here is a nice challenge for you eric. do one on a 2000-2012 ford escape and video tape that and let every one kno how that goes. (coming from a Ford tech) I enjoy your vids by the way
What are them brakes for when it had rear disc brakes?
Are they for the hand brake?
just did one of these on my dads car last week. had a simular problem too, part of the wheel speed sensor broke and stayed on. We just used a punch and pushed it in until it was bent enough to pull out with pliers
hi, this may be a stupid uestion but when you stake the nut into place on the spindel, how would you get the nut off again as it will not turn?
Hi there, is anyway you can help me please, where to find a rear wheel bearing with Abs for 95 Labaron GTC? I been looking everywhere with no luck.
Thank you very much!
hey whats up with having breaks inside when its a disk break? ive never took off a rotor and had drum breaks behind it... thnaks for video tho... still have a question at the end of the vid lol
eric , at about what milage do wheel bearings usually start going bad?
When u did the brakes u over tighting that nut what cause the bearing to failed
Any real difference for rear disk? My bearings are shot. Best before winter, right?
Hey Eric I have a 00 Ford Mustang rear right bearing gone bad .. Since I don't know much about cars I was wondering if I could buy it as an assembly or does the bearing have a different name because I can't seem to find it online.. Only the front wheel hub assembly shows up
Aren't things like bearings replaced in pairs as in both right and left wheels?
Eric , you don't need to lube the new bearing before you install it?
why did you not torque the caliper bolts or wheel bearing bolts?
If you have the propper tolls then id say use a gear puller. Thats what this set up is designed for. Saves ya alot of bangining. In some cases that center race will be a prblem especially if the hub is that worn.
Thanks!
Aren't you conerned that you might be overtightening the axel nut? If it's too tight, won't that just burn out the bearings again?
Get ericthecarguy I have a 00 honda civic dx and I don't have access to a hydrolic press what is another method to remove a front bearing? Thanks.
Thanks bro that's news to me.
another tip, if you feel the vibrations excessively in your steering wheel, its likely a front rotor. but if you just feel it generally throughout the entire vehicle, more likely a rear.
Just Simply take a chisel and or a heavy duty flat head screw driver to pry or hammer the dented section away from the notch on the spindle to unbolt it in the future. This is to prevent it from it loosing it up while driving on it. Its the cotter pin replacement pretty much.
That race got hot
Thanks Eric I Like It Its Same I Did It On 01 Civic .... Try This On BMW Any BMW Rear Bearing HA HA HA HA Lots Of Fun Good Luck SD...
You are OK, do you think I have the same with a 1990 se mercedes
dang you have a lot of RL's coming in the shop.... 1st this 96 RL than the 99 RL!
Also where do you buy your bearings