+rogerthemailman25 Thank you! We love empowering our customers and showing how to perform DIY auto repairs with our high-quality auto parts. 1aau.to/m/Shop-TRQ
Man... That was Very Descriptive. I cut wood for a living (aka) Carpenter. I can build a house but absolutely envy you of your technical/professional knowledge. Thank you so much for showing how a real mechanic/technician does it right! 👍
+Chris Barnett Thank you! We love empowering our customers and showing how to perform DIY auto repairs with our high-quality auto parts. 1aau.to/m/Shop-TRQ
Very professional video. Thorough and well-paced. Great camera angles and the mechanic speaks very well and gave great additional information that many mechanics would gloss over.
One of the best tutorials on here. Great detailed information without the nonsense and watching someone remove bolts for half the video and wasting time. Sub'd
I really appreciate all the great advice in these videos. Especially the heads up on not turning the drive shaft after removing the pin, or else all of the spider gears will fall out. Oh wait! HE DIDN'T 😢
Great video! I had my left rear axle seal replaced about 6 months ago and after it was done shortly after I started hearing a grinding sound. I changed my pads, rotors, and calipers because it was time for them to be changed but shortly after that it started grinding even more. I guy I know said it sounds like my bearings were bad and it's possible but it's amazing that I had no grinding before I took it to the repair shop. They didn't replace the bearings and I believe they were old and probably damaged during reinstallation. I'm going to inspect them myself and this video was the perfect tutorial. Thank you!
+speedshiftr88 Thank you! We love empowering our customers and showing how to perform DIY auto repairs with our high-quality auto parts. 1aau.to/m/Shop-TRQ
How did that bearing come out so easy. I have a 2015 silverado 1500 4x4 and the rear wheel bearing will not budge. I broke the puller trying to get it out and damaged the reluctor ring as well. Im to the point of cutting the bearing out. Any advice would be helpful so I do not do anymore damage ha.
Dude, you rock..! You absolutely rock!. Well spoken, very explicit, detail information.. you are one awesome mechanic, I mean that dude. Thank you so much, been having problems with my 2012 Chevrolet Silverado 1500.. going to change the front wheel bearing and the rear right wheel bearing.. thanks so much dude
Nice job, clear and concise. 2 things, you didn't prelude the seal and, really, RTV around the seal? I see no point in that except to make the seal harder to remove next time.
WOW...what a process...well explained and excellent video I might add. Watching this I am not sure who to take my truck to and make sure its done right.
great video, i was able to do everything myself for the first time changing bearings on a rear end. only problem is the a1 auto bearings trq was to small. still working with customer care to resolve the issue. what sucks is, if they get me the correct bearings i will have to buy new gasket seals and oil all over again also.
Some tips on very rusty vehicles. The differential bolts m8 x 1.25 x 25mm long were so rusty a few almost didnt have enough flats left to grip with a socket. I found pounding on them with a big hammer to mash the top a bit gave me enough to get the bolts to crack loose. Only had to use the torch on one of them. The driver side bearing was beyond stuck. Had to use the torch to get it extremely hot before my slide hammer would get it to finally come out. Getting the new bearing back in on the side it didn't want to come out is going to be a pain until it's started real good. Wood is likely only going to dent as you pound on it. A pc of aluminum works better to start it. When turning the gears, use the driveshaft as mentioned, do not turn the axle shafts without the pin in since it will make everything misaligned. If it does turn a bit you can cautiously turn it the other way till it aligns. I found I could leave the pin in for most of the turning you just have to keep a finger on it incase it wants to slide out than you can slide it out upwards then remove the c clips and small bolt. Use a socket for the bolt, it grips better than my wrench. Check your break lines on the axle and be prepared to replace them. Make sure you can get the axle shaft seals if you are going to a parts store for them, none of the chain stores in my area had any and I finally found a small store 25 minutes away that had some. Claw side of a claw hammer works better than a pry bar to remove the seal.
Messed up using that brand of oil. It has friction additive. Must use 75w-90 full synthetic gear oil, no friction additive for Eaton lockers. It is a mechanical locker. The additive is for LS locks w friction discs.
Great video, well explained!. What about the ABS tone ring? If your rear axle has this, will this puller and adapter fit between them or do you need to remove the tone ring also if you don't have the special GM tool?
When installing the bearing, you can put it in the freezer before. Will make it go in even easier. Also, with the seal, I've heard some people say that rtv isn't needed with rubber seals, but I have always put it on as an extra insurance. Just seems odd to not add that extra little insurance.
Interesting that you used Red threadlocker on the caliper mounting bolts. Isn't that too strong? After all, someday you'll want to pull off that caliper again. Or, is it okay because those are big bolts and you will be using big wrenches with big leverage to get them off?
You can't really use that bearing tool on newer (2010+) because there is a ABS reluctor ring behind the bearing preventing the tool from opening to use it. (There is about 1/4" gap.) The smaller bearing tool will open, but it is not wide enough to catch the entire bearing race wall so it fails.
Mann.. I got this 2003 Silverado. And my passenger rear brake started grinding metal to metal. (I did a brake job less than a year ago) also noticed mid tread wear on both my rear tires. And they’re not over inflated. Now I’m noticing that my passenger rear wheel is getting real hot, so now I’m here. Could this cause all this wreckage? 😢
+@Kuebix We wouldn't be able to diagnose an issue like that here, you may want to have a local mechanic take a look at it. Thanks for checking us out! 1aau.to/m/Shop-1AAuto-c
good video but what happens when you can't get bearing out all that happen for me is bearing blew apart and still in. Been at it for 2 days with puller and slide hammer no results
Im getting a grinding rumbling noise from the driver side rear axle , arcadia fl. I got the hoist and tools ,except that slide hammer attachment , just aint never done one yet ..you wanta a vacation and come help me ..😂 I got boats and fish ....lol Let me know how much a flight is ..😂 That's how much i hate working on them alone ..better to have help ..
+cesar caro felix We wouldn't be able to diagnose an issue like that here, you may want to have a local mechanic take a look at it. Thanks for checking us out! 1aau.to/m/Shop-1AAuto-c
I just did this job because I was having a leak on my drivers side rear wheel where it's leaking gear oil onto the rotor making a nasty smell... I replaced the seal and put everything back together. I made sure the spring was still on the seal and that the axle looked ok. It is still leaking though. What else could causing it. The leak really looked like it was from that seal. Could I have missed something? if so, what?
The actual metal the seal goes into can rust or get worn out over time causing a bad seal therefore it leaks take the seal off and take some sand paper very light sand paper and sand just the end where the seal sits wipe it clean with brake cleaner and the put a new seal in and that should fix your problem permanently
During the slide hammer phase ended up off center a bit 😮 and have score marks on the inside portion of the axle and on the bearing race 😢. Flippin’ idiot!! Hoping the RTV on the seal will keep it sealed up!
I followed the steps and after replacing the pin and bolt, the axles move when the transmission is in park. Can anybody tell me what I may have done wrong?
+Nesto Martinez Thank you! We love empowering our customers and showing how to perform DIY auto repairs with our high-quality auto parts. 1aau.to/m/Shop-TRQ
My dude. I know you must get shit for this ALL the time, but what on Earth is the deal with how you say "vehicle"? There is not a single other issue with the way you pronounce any other word. You have crystal clear diction for the entire video besides this one single word. I am just baffled. No hate, just curiosity.
√ *Watch the Video*
√ *Buy The Part at 1A Auto* 1aau.to/m/Shop-TRQ-Parts
√ *Do it Yourself*
√ *Save Money*
30 minute video saved me from a $400 repair bill. $85 in parts and a few hours of my time and it's as good as new! Thanks guys, always good videos.
I like that you work on vehicles that are as rusty as the ones I work on. It's helpful to see tips on handling corrosion.
I'm 73,,, you did a very very professional job of showing us "How to do the job correctly"!! Thankyou.
+rogerthemailman25 Thank you! We love empowering our customers and showing how to perform DIY auto repairs with our high-quality auto parts. 1aau.to/m/Shop-TRQ
Man...
That was Very Descriptive.
I cut wood for a living (aka) Carpenter. I can build a house but absolutely envy you of your technical/professional knowledge.
Thank you so much for showing how a real mechanic/technician does it right! 👍
+Chris Barnett Thank you! We love empowering our customers and showing how to perform DIY auto repairs with our high-quality auto parts. 1aau.to/m/Shop-TRQ
Very professional video. Thorough and well-paced. Great camera angles and the mechanic speaks very well and gave great additional information that many mechanics would gloss over.
One of the best tutorials on here. Great detailed information without the nonsense and watching someone remove bolts for half the video and wasting time. Sub'd
I really appreciate all the great advice in these videos. Especially the heads up on not turning the drive shaft after removing the pin, or else all of the spider gears will fall out. Oh wait! HE DIDN'T 😢
Great video! I had my left rear axle seal replaced about 6 months ago and after it was done shortly after I started hearing a grinding sound. I changed my pads, rotors, and calipers because it was time for them to be changed but shortly after that it started grinding even more. I guy I know said it sounds like my bearings were bad and it's possible but it's amazing that I had no grinding before I took it to the repair shop. They didn't replace the bearings and I believe they were old and probably damaged during reinstallation. I'm going to inspect them myself and this video was the perfect tutorial. Thank you!
Random...I came across your channel..I was frustrated working on a car..but your tone mellowed me out and got car running..thanks
+speedshiftr88 Thank you! We love empowering our customers and showing how to perform DIY auto repairs with our high-quality auto parts. 1aau.to/m/Shop-TRQ
How did that bearing come out so easy. I have a 2015 silverado 1500 4x4 and the rear wheel bearing will not budge. I broke the puller trying to get it out and damaged the reluctor ring as well. Im to the point of cutting the bearing out. Any advice would be helpful so I do not do anymore damage ha.
Dude, you rock..! You absolutely rock!. Well spoken, very explicit, detail information.. you are one awesome mechanic, I mean that dude. Thank you so much, been having problems with my 2012 Chevrolet Silverado 1500.. going to change the front wheel bearing and the rear right wheel bearing.. thanks so much dude
This is one of the most informative DIY vids I've watched. I wish all were like this. Very well done.
No LS additive is spec'd for g80 rear diff. It is a locking diff, not a limited a limited-slip diff. Just synthetic 75W-90 gear oil is all you need.
By Far the best most descriptive video. I can't find Anything you didn't cover to the T...
+Brandon Construction Thanks for watching our video! 1aau.to/m/Shop-TRQ
Ls diff fluid on these non-clutch type diffs isn't required as there are no clutches in the mechanism.
Nice job, clear and concise. 2 things, you didn't prelude the seal and, really, RTV around the seal? I see no point in that except to make the seal harder to remove next time.
WOW...what a process...well explained and excellent video I might add. Watching this I am not sure who to take my truck to and make sure its done right.
great video, i was able to do everything myself for the first time changing bearings on a rear end. only problem is the a1 auto bearings trq was to small. still working with customer care to resolve the issue. what sucks is, if they get me the correct bearings i will have to buy new gasket seals and oil all over again also.
This is a great video. Clear and concise. Thank you for making it.
Some tips on very rusty vehicles. The differential bolts m8 x 1.25 x 25mm long were so rusty a few almost didnt have enough flats left to grip with a socket. I found pounding on them with a big hammer to mash the top a bit gave me enough to get the bolts to crack loose. Only had to use the torch on one of them. The driver side bearing was beyond stuck. Had to use the torch to get it extremely hot before my slide hammer would get it to finally come out. Getting the new bearing back in on the side it didn't want to come out is going to be a pain until it's started real good. Wood is likely only going to dent as you pound on it. A pc of aluminum works better to start it. When turning the gears, use the driveshaft as mentioned, do not turn the axle shafts without the pin in since it will make everything misaligned. If it does turn a bit you can cautiously turn it the other way till it aligns. I found I could leave the pin in for most of the turning you just have to keep a finger on it incase it wants to slide out than you can slide it out upwards then remove the c clips and small bolt. Use a socket for the bolt, it grips better than my wrench. Check your break lines on the axle and be prepared to replace them. Make sure you can get the axle shaft seals if you are going to a parts store for them, none of the chain stores in my area had any and I finally found a small store 25 minutes away that had some. Claw side of a claw hammer works better than a pry bar to remove the seal.
Messed up using that brand of oil. It has friction additive. Must use 75w-90 full synthetic gear oil, no friction additive for Eaton lockers.
It is a mechanical locker. The additive is for LS locks w friction discs.
What about the other drivers side axle?
I’m wondering the same thing
Ya.. i wonder why 2nd video i seen that does not show the Drivers side... wonder whats different.
3:01 “needs to be recycled” by this he means use the oil as raw material for coating lumber, fire starter, insect repellant, and other great ideas.
Great vid ,man my issue is cannot get the driver side axle to go into the diff to remove C clamp,what's going on with this?anybody out there😤
Will this fix excessive in/out play?
My rear wheel hub moves in and out a good bit is that just because the axle has room to move or is that a bad bearing?
I have a question even for the driver side do i have to do the same procedure? Bcuz every video i see they always changing the passenger side bearings
+@djsodhkwjdhsj4298 The install should be the same or similar for the driver side. Buy this part on 1AAuto.com: 1aau.to/m/Shop-TRQ
Will this be the same for a 2014 Silverado LT 4wd 1500
17:40 when you tug can there be little play or is it supposed to be stiff ??
Is there a reason you didn't do both sides?
Great video, well explained!.
What about the ABS tone ring? If your rear axle has this, will this puller and adapter fit between them or do you need to remove the tone ring also if you don't have the special GM tool?
hello and thank you for the info. does this procedure works the same for 2011 GMC yukonn denali xl 1500 ? thanks
How much play should be on the gears or drive shaft to be ok? I mean when moving it back and forth? To know if something is worn out.
Truly an artist at work.. quality content👍🏼
+Kaise Paulson Thanks for watching our video! 1aau.to/m/Shop-TRQ
When installing the bearing, you can put it in the freezer before. Will make it go in even easier.
Also, with the seal, I've heard some people say that rtv isn't needed with rubber seals, but I have always put it on as an extra insurance. Just seems odd to not add that extra little insurance.
Would this cause a ABS sensor stable track light come on? Replaced speed sensor but still have lights
Can I use high temperature grease for the bearing instead of gear oil ??
No, use correct oil, same as you refill with, its all in the same cavity.
Great, pro and very well explained video, thank you very much 👍
So about the bonking and the "BINK". Does it actually bonk n bink??
This is a great video, but what they don't show is the fact you have to beat the axles in, and out to do this job.
Interesting that you used Red threadlocker on the caliper mounting bolts. Isn't that too strong? After all, someday you'll want to pull off that caliper again. Or, is it okay because those are big bolts and you will be using big wrenches with big leverage to get them off?
Yes, but a torch to warm them up breaks down the red. I would use blue or really don’t need any.
You can't really use that bearing tool on newer (2010+) because there is a ABS reluctor ring behind the bearing preventing the tool from opening to use it. (There is about 1/4" gap.) The smaller bearing tool will open, but it is not wide enough to catch the entire bearing race wall so it fails.
Mann.. I got this 2003 Silverado. And my passenger rear brake started grinding metal to metal. (I did a brake job less than a year ago) also noticed mid tread wear on both my rear tires. And they’re not over inflated. Now I’m noticing that my passenger rear wheel is getting real hot, so now I’m here. Could this cause all this wreckage? 😢
+@Kuebix We wouldn't be able to diagnose an issue like that here, you may want to have a local mechanic take a look at it. Thanks for checking us out! 1aau.to/m/Shop-1AAuto-c
FYI interference fit generally causes enough of a seal to not need any extra sealant
good video but what happens when you can't get bearing out all that happen for me is bearing blew apart and still in. Been at it for 2 days with puller and slide hammer no results
My wheel bearing won't go in straight. Y'all make everything look so easy 😂
Good video tho
Anyone know if there's anywhere to rent the bearing driver and the slide hammer?
Im getting a grinding rumbling noise from the driver side rear axle , arcadia fl. I got the hoist and tools ,except that slide hammer attachment , just aint never done one yet ..you wanta a vacation and come help me ..😂
I got boats and fish ....lol
Let me know how much a flight is ..😂
That's how much i hate working on them alone ..better to have help ..
My 13 suburban has the limited slip I don't see how to get the c clips out
How do i know its the axle bearings and not the differential? What’s making a grinding noise?
+cesar caro felix We wouldn't be able to diagnose an issue like that here, you may want to have a local mechanic take a look at it. Thanks for checking us out! 1aau.to/m/Shop-1AAuto-c
Is this the same for 2016 Colorado?
Good job my man
Is this the same for a 2008 suburban?
+@freddcast3465 The installation process should be very similar.
I just did this job because I was having a leak on my drivers side rear wheel where it's leaking gear oil onto the rotor making a nasty smell... I replaced the seal and put everything back together. I made sure the spring was still on the seal and that the axle looked ok. It is still leaking though. What else could causing it. The leak really looked like it was from that seal. Could I have missed something? if so, what?
The actual metal the seal goes into can rust or get worn out over time causing a bad seal therefore it leaks take the seal off and take some sand paper very light sand paper and sand just the end where the seal sits wipe it clean with brake cleaner and the put a new seal in and that should fix your problem permanently
What would you have done if the bearing had blown apart like you expected it to do? That would have been more complicated I assume.
*rear wheel bearings* begins taking apart the differential… 😒
Why do you have to go super with the differential in order to replace the bearing?
Great video. Details were awesome.
Never add brake fluid. If it’s low, that’s because either the pads are worn, or there is a leak in the system that needs to be fixed.
What does brake fluid have to do with changing axle bearings
During the slide hammer phase ended up off center a bit 😮 and have score marks on the inside portion of the axle and on the bearing race 😢. Flippin’ idiot!!
Hoping the RTV on the seal will keep it sealed up!
Down here on the gulf of Mexico, trucks that are that rusted out usually belong to shrimpers and sportsman who launch frequently in salt water.
i had that same bearing, except when i tried to install all the bearings fell out the race
Did you gather up all the pieces and pack it with grease or did you get a new bearing assembly?
Is it it the same process for either the driver or passenger side with the U clip??
+Alfred Casias Yes, it is the same process for both driver and passenger sides.
@@TRQ so there’s two u clips and rods for each side ?????
How you know the bearing needs to be replace?
I'm sure every mechanic has a jar of Vaseline in his toolbox just in case he runs out of Red & Tacky.
Hey buddy! You keep that finger full of petroleum jelly away from my rear end!!!
Good video aside from adding brake fluid. Those pads look like they were pretty low
I followed the steps and after replacing the pin and bolt, the axles move when the transmission is in park. Can anybody tell me what I may have done wrong?
Did you possibly forget the c clip
What does the word expecially mean?
What if the pin is stuck and the bolt is already out?
What about the drivers side procedure ???
+Vito Tamarazzo The procedure for the driver side should be the same.
@@TRQ iwheres the cross shaft and clip in the rear diff ?? They aren't symmetrical.
It's way easier
Thanks!!!! That’s a real “how to “ video !
+Nesto Martinez Thank you! We love empowering our customers and showing how to perform DIY auto repairs with our high-quality auto parts. 1aau.to/m/Shop-TRQ
Why would you just use wheel bearing grease in the bearings and seal?
Did I miss the left side?
Thank you
Need to link the seal as well guys.
What about the other side
“Pan”, “U-Clip” well on the plus side there won’t be a copyright problem.
Good vedio. But I check they do sell the hub and bearing as one unit why you have to pull the shaft out to replace bearing?
I legit could never picture a male Karen, until hearing this guy speak. Just need to hear him say “YOU NEED TO LEAVE” in his squeaky voice to be sure.
N what about the driver side? Axle bearing
2014?
Didn't hear the Bink
I never heard it go "bing"
My dude. I know you must get shit for this ALL the time, but what on Earth is the deal with how you say "vehicle"? There is not a single other issue with the way you pronounce any other word. You have crystal clear diction for the entire video besides this one single word. I am just baffled. No hate, just curiosity.