Modifying Rear Swing Arm For Classic Race Mini
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- Опубліковано 20 лют 2021
- Join us in the workshop today as we modify a rear swing arm for a Classic Race Mini.
Links to Keith and Coles Channels
Classic Mini Workshop: / milla1078
Classic Mini DIY : / somethingnew71
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I made a wash tank using a screen wash pump into a cut down old brush,running into an old sink with parrafin as the cleaner. 👍😎
Love it, really clever out of the box thinking 👍👍
Skint thinking...My 1425 was built on a very tight budget!!🚗😎😎
The most professional mini related post I’ve ever seen.
Excellent and genuine procedure. Thank you for sharing
The best video so far excellent mate
It’s also the first video I’ve watched since I got back from the states using the I phone previously used the laptop
it made me laugh when it came up with subtitles
Don’t worry we understand our fellow celts
Top work I got lots to catch up on
Bushes are great load bearing surfaces and absorb impact loads without deterioration at low speeds better then any other bearing. Where the needle bearing needs plenty of rotation to maintain lubricity and even wear, the bush bearing is happy to remain almost motionless. Quo-dos for the bush removal method and effort in locating the bush center axis.
Which is why they put a bush in outer end. The Metro got rollers at both ends because it was engineered to reduce production & maintenance costs. Having to ream a bush after fitting will increase the production costs by more than difference in cost between buying a bush or a bearing.
Loved the video, that bushing removal was genius !!!
Thanks Patrick glad you enjoyed
Another great video, thanks for the shout-out. Nice work, I've never seen radius arms line bored 👍
Thanks buddy you know me always trying to bring you guys something a little different :)
Super video Paul. Thanks for taking the time to explain everything.
You are most welcome Conor thank for watching 👍👍
Sir that was a fantastic video -very very informative and super well presented. well done to your camera person as well - I know how difficult that job can be :) - keep up the good work.
Thanks for the lovely comment and positivity. Our camera is a very awesome person and has the patience of a saint for putting up with me in the workshop and managing to make my mumblings look interesting
Thanks for the shoutout! :-) You're ideas and suggestions are awesome. I will be using them on the next set I do. I love the idea of tapping the old bushing to remove it. Genius!
Most welcome Cole, Im delighted you enjoyed the video. Some times the simple ideas are the best :)
Cole, if you want a set of arms to do a similar video, I’m near Chicago and would be more than happy to send you mine…
Love it !!!!
Another great video, fantastic work 👍
Thanks buddy 👍
Very good video, and process well explained.
Thanks buddy 👍
Brilliant video amazing 👏
Thanks Friend
Very fine. 👍👍👍
Thanks buddy 👍👍
Excellent video
Thanks Philip 👍
I´ll not go for this modification, but I really like the view from another perspective
Thanks
Very clever...top man
Thank you! Cheers!
Good vid, buuut - I'm not sure I understand how you align the new needle bearing to the old one?
It's obvious aligning the boring head to the stub axle for the new bearing, but cannot see how this is lining up with the original needle roller or more correctly how you checked that the old needle roller is in fact correctly aligned to the new one and the stub axle?
Deadly 🤗👌
Thanks for the visit
many thnks for this tip ,, going to invest in a borer now lol ,,,,
Make sure you make a video of how it goes 👍👍
@@HREIRL this is going to be used on a mini 7s we are racing next season ,,, not sure about vids lol
Beautiful work may have to send my arms over to get sorted 😆
Thanks Friend, you're more than welcome to send them our way we will look after them for you 👍👍
Great video. Meticulous.
Hi Paul
I’m confused: we’re talking about a reciprocating movement here, not a rotating part. Surely a needle roller race will simply see the needles wear grooves in the swing arm pin? Shouldn’t it a be a bush in both ends?
Cheers, Will
I reckon you're right, here. Constant shocks from the road will not mark a smooth bush as much as it would, the multi ribbed surface of a roller bearing. There's a Land Rover mod which replaces the front axle top roller king pin bearing with a phenolic bush to remedy just that kind of pounding wear. Crowded rollers work best on high speed rotating shafts, with a constant feed of lubricant.
All the Mini arms I've had have a fair bit of positive camber which is by design isn't it? You now have your new outer bearing at a different angle than the inner bush don't you? I'd have thought you'd also need to bore and shim it to match your new outer. Or are all the Mini radius arms I have are different than the ones you see.
Very good Point Friend. and you are right there is some positive camber is some arms. this however is built in at the wheel stub axel, and varies hugely between arms the factor tolerance was supposed to be 0.5 - 1 deg of inclination but in reality it can be negative -1 deg or as much as -2. you are correct about the bore near the suspension. How I get around this is by using a self aligning needle roller bearing at that end.
Like the little boy who wasn't fooled, you spotted "The Emperor's New Clothes", that the two needle rollers are unlikely to line up and because the outer end of the arm is bored concentrically with the old bush, any errors in alignment are retained, so all the careful effort getting the stub axle vertical is ineffectual.
This "improvement" is akin to replacing the rubber suspension with a steel spring, it is a diminishment. Self aligning bearings are designed to allow for the minor inaccuracy when mounting a shaft; they are not made to be used where the mounting is constantly moving because there is no way of getting lubrication between the self aligning cage and the outer case.
The video shows how simple it is to remove a bush. Far better to replace the bush, ream it with Tool 18G 588 (it only takes 5 minutes) and, GREASE IT EVERY 1,000 MILES.
I always wondered why they used a bearing at one end and a bush at the other. Now i know, brilliant. I presume this can be done on the very early 1959-61 welded arms?
unfortunately not Paul as there is not enough meat on the bearing end to take the slightly larger angler miss alignment bearing that is needed. I is possible however to modify these arms by welding a larger sleeve over the outside of the arm to allow me to fit the bigger bearing 👍
@@HREIRL That then defeats the object of the early look arm, thats a shame. Thanks for replying my friend.
interesting bit of tec
Thanks friend
I like these videos but really wish the focus was better. Keeps making me think I need glasses 🤣
Really glad you are liking the videos and thanks for watching. Sorry about the focus we have a broken focus motor at the moment and we are waiting on parts we order before Christmas to arrive. We are in manual mode at the moment 😩
How much do you charge to do a pair
Hi bro great videos. I was wondering if you take the distributor out to clean it and you've moved the car but want to put the distributor back in how to set it up that the timing a correct.
get the rockers on number 4 cylinder rocking ie one going down and one going up, check the pully for TDC insert dizy so the rotor is pointing at number 1 on the cap and fit it. that will give you a basic setting you then need to check your timing with a timing light and set it to book figures 👍👍
Just out of curiosity..what solutions do you use in the parts washer? And where can it be got..
Great video..
Thanks man, The solution I use is called Bio.X By a compan called Denios. its reliably available from any motor provider 👍
Just curious, if you’re replacing the swing arm PIN why go through all this before installing the new pin? I would assume installing the new pin would change your measurements. Great video. Thanks
the pin is constant only the bearings can change the geo 👍
Would you be able to suggest a way to measure how out of alignment the pins are to each other? I had reconditioned radius arms on my car and I'm suspicious that they could be part of the reason the tracking is way off
let me have a think on that one Friend, it can certainly have an effect. I have see these arms out as much a 2-3 degs.
@@HREIRL yeah well I'm making a video on taking my subframe out and getting to the bottom of my tracking issue so I'm hoping there's a way I can check the alignment of each arm while they're off
Could you do this modification to a alloy radius arm?
Hi Sure James cant see why not :)