Відео

What do you think is the the highest 1098cc MPG A-Series (Morris Minor). possible?

Followed lots of rally’s around Ireland in a mates GT in the early 80’s. Great car!

Is the regular cooling affected by the fan being so close to the radiator? I just purchased a mini with the fan inside the wheel arch, i think your mounting spot is better for electric cooling, but I'm worried about impeding air flow when the fan is not activated. Thanks!

Only just found you on this engine build series. You had me at episode 2 and then we got to split carbs! Ooooo. It's a boy thing.

Very interesting and well done video. Have owned a 998cc Cooper and two 1275cc 'S' types (one I bored +0.020" to 1293cc). On one of those cars, it had oil pressure at idle but as the engine was revved up, the pressure went down! In the end I stripped the engine down and found that the bolts holding the oil pump in place were only finger tight, from the factory. As the engine was revved, the pump started sucking air. I did this out on the street with the engine in situ. The biggest problem was breaking the flywheel from the crankshaft taper. I did everything shown in the video (made my own heavy duty puller) and the flywheel only broke free when I added a bit of heat and then hit it with a hammer with the puller fully tightened. It came free with quite a bang. Loved my Mini's though, and still do😃

If you install adjustable suspension is a must to use 4 scales, one for each wheel, to make a perfect tuning. You can check each corner height but you need a perfect distribution of corner weight.

Cool

The rub marks on your shaft is caused by the slop in the swivel housing and its rubbing on the inside of the stub axle/spindle. I have the same issue with the swivel hub moving so much that it started to bind the half shaft against the stub axle/spindle and it heated up so much that it welded it to the inside of the stub axle/spindle and broke off. I still haven't figured out the reason for this movement since the alignment of the swivel housing relative to the axle shaft is fixed...not adjustable. The shims in the top swivel housing pin only set the amount of force required to move the swivel housing from right to left. Great video and was great for me to see another series III swivel housing video to help me continue my effort to understand why my swivel housing is not aligned properly with the half shaft coming out after being bolted in and seated in the lower swivel bearing.

HI , Can you help, I have good oil pressure when it cold, once its hot the oil pressure drops right off, I have checked the the sleeve and the spring in the block and all works at it should, I'm now considering to pull the engine out and change the oil pump. Any advice greatly recieved. Thank you.

3:23 i have a PTSD to that clicking sound 😂

Bro the mounting brackets are genius 😢 I'll go cardboard aided design and get them made ❤ so simple, my mind is in less of a mist about the plan for my suspension... thanks mate

Too much talk

Very very informative and interesting

Memory lane I hated those one flat at a time UJ bolts Only thing worse was the Effing Brass bushings on the drive shafts Rather than actual Differential Ball Bearings. British engineering at it's Best. Forgot ?? the wee rubber boot on that sliding axle Save the S engines for posterity !??? Geeeesus... Only in Museum England.. mercifully.. Erm No power tools or even rachets/sockets in the UK ?? Hmm a ~100 hp (maybe) Race engine While the prepubescent down the street has ~137 hp in his stock clapped out Civic and actual brakes.

Can you do me a favour? I found episode 3 of this list and obviously wanted to start from episode 1. When you make a new video in a series, could you put a link to the previous video in the description. Itll make life a lot easier to find the earlier ones. Ta much 😊

Just found this one and started it. Now im going to have to go and find the first in the series. Wish you didn't make such good content (the last bits a lie btw, keep it up).

With the spring now with more tension, will it slip with less wear on the clutch. Does it make a difference in that way?

Love your videos bud. Number 2 if this one came up as a recommended and i went hunting to find the start as I really enjoy your content (subscribed last week).

The look on your face when you were emptying that boot! I’m pretty sure I pulled the same face when I did mine 😂

Awesome☺

Love it thanks heaps from Australia

Brilliant explanation thanks so much for sharing your expertise and thinking.

Enjoying the series. Thanks.

Simple and very well explained explanations. Thank you.

Its s good video, but quit switching the camera angles so quickly please. It makes it really hard to track what you're doing. Ta

For those reaming by hand, don’t forget that you must never turn the reamer anti clockwise. When withdrawing the reamer, keep it turning in a clockwise direction. Thank you for such a great video series

Incredible how many so called mini experts are unaware of this and just concentrate on the straps levelling. I am currently busy doing this on my clutch and boy what a difference to the clutch pedal pressure.

Thank you so so much for these videos!!

These videos are fantastic. Very well explained with plenty of detail. You are a natural

"It's in said the bishop to the actress"

Best rebuilt i have ever seen. Precise explaination and great video with great explaination.

Love the "chuck" method for removing studs - great tip! I have been doing the "2 nut" method for years 😀

So all the forces at the rear suspension for now go through the wheel arch and not the subframe. Cant see that lasting long. Itll rip the inner arch out in no time.

Amazing content! Your little tips and gotchas make for a very detailed video.

Magic watch realistic viewing in fact front row seating, fantastic and very engaging entertaining and a great insight into strip down of an S3 Synchro gearbox. Keep up the great work it’s a big 👍s up from me…..😀.

Very good and very informative, thank you.

So I like the idea of optimising the clutch operation by flattening the diaphragm and reducing the horn height so it becomes parallel. However this surely means that the thrust release bearing ends up with much further to travel before it actually contacts the clutch release plate/spring (using the standard clutch arm) to the point where you run out of travel. Because of how far the arm is pushed out the clutch slave cylinder will then overthrow and blow the hydraulic seals. Can you explain how this can work or have I missed something? Thanks

Excellent and genuine procedure. Thank you for sharing

Bom dia , a mangueira que liga a parte posterior da cabeça com o novo bucal extra do radiador , não pode ligar por um T , ao bucal já existente ?? Obg !

This just came up in my feed and I was so excited, and then realised this was from some time ago😢😢

Just came across your channel. I just recently, last week, got my little dream car. Been one for the last 11ish years already. It is a Mini 1275E, which was made in South Africa only. I will be watching much more of your videos as they are amazing. Cannot wait to start mending and fixing up my little unit. First thing is the shifter, as 2nd and revers slips out, need to still figure that out. Other fixes I want new balljoints and bushings on the front😁😁😁

Hello Paul, What is happening with the workshop videos, are you keeping okay. So many of us are missing seeing and hearing about your projects. Let us know that you are in good health at least.

Thank you!!! I am a newbie to this platform Just what I needed

Peagent blue

Installs the camshaft horizontally -er, no - installs it vertically.

Can you mix and match, i would want to run coilovers at the front but keep the rubber cones at the back. Reason being i have a tow bar on my mini so the weigh on the rear end changes depending on whether im towing or not so need that progressive rate the cones give on the back but i want the coilovers on the front for that ease of maintenance plus theybseem so much more advanced as a suspension system over the conventional mini setup. Thanks for the great video!

The reason they moved the location screw, was because the unsupported END of the shaft would break off. If you were 75 years old like me, you would have had it happen to YOU.

G'day guys, I've only started watching you in Oct 23. I bought a mini moke and watching you work on engines etc is amazing. I've been watching your videos from oldest to newest and had to check this one out to see where you are at. Any content, even shorts of the garage build would be great to see and any longer ones as well (that fit into your hectic schedule that you just explained). Congratulations on the new garage and your new outlook, you've inspired me to look at what I am doing also. Hope to see anything soon. Cheers.

Effing tight

Great again👍🏻👊🏻