A follow up on this: ua-cam.com/video/zKzCqUeVqv0/v-deo.html How to remove the fuel return pipe from the kit without spilling any fuel and how to effectively block the main return and not to have fuel spilling around.
I am fighting with rough idling from time to time which i can't really solve. I never had an ECU update in my 207sw 1.6HDi so it still idles at 833 1/min. I'd love to increase the idle revs but this is not done without really expensive equipment. After seeing your video i now ordered a leak-off kit from Amazon and will check that. Thank you for making these great to understand videos, theis is invaluable.
Befor removing your injector kit transparrent lines clamp each one near the injector befor removing this will reduce the amount of spillage, Great video just having to do this to my ford focus today
@@Norgesbeste1 To be honest after breaking my ankle then having a op I was not able to get to it until several months, by then the fungi and mold had taken its toll , I scrapped it as getting professional cleaners in would of cost to much and then you still have spores sitting in places, like behind air vents,and in the seat foam etc , then I would still have to spend money sorting the issue out, Anyway`s replaced for a Suzuki sport 1.6 non turbo, so less things to go wrong with this engine , just suffer from rust underneath being japan make,just a little extra on fuel being non turbo .but sounds nice out the exhaust using its natural flow of air intake giving that resonance note, So all turned out good in the end,😉
Those brittle tubes remind me so much of Intel stock cooler's pushpins... :) also thank you so much for the videos, I have the same engine, your videos are a perfect reference
you need to put a hole in the caps (white ones) so the air can get out because I found that the transparent tube are sealing quite well on the caps and air is trapped inside. before piercing the caps I got inconsistent results due to air trap resistance
Many thanks for the very good advice. I should have done it at least 2 times and I would have probably seen this. I will try to see if it was sealing well.
Hi there, I liked very much your tutorial and just want to say thanks and send a congratulation for this video. I subscribed your channel and I will continue to follow your work know.
why is there a clicking and whistling sound after turning off the engine, because that exact sound i have at my peugeot as well 😆 how much time it needed to fill the tubes until half... thanks
Hi there, well there are multiple solenoids and other things that close at shut off, e.g. EGR valve, turbo wastegate. When vacuum cannot hold them they close. A good injector should return
Excellent and detailed. Only one question. I did not understand why you unplug the injectors and then plug it again. It is not possible to do the test without unplugging them at all;
Do you know what adapters will fit the 1.5 bluehdi injectors as they are slightly different and the kit i buy none of the adapters fit even tho injectors are Bosch 😬
I have a Ford fiesta 1.6 TCDi basically this exact engine… I have an issue with it cutting out… i prime the fuel again and it starts up and runs an drives… if left for a few days it won’t start? Any idea what this could be? I have replaced Fuel lines that run across the top of the engine but not the leak off line Fuel rail pressure sensor Fuel pump sucker solenoid Crank sensor EGR valve Any help would be much appreciated thanks 🙏
Most likely you have a small puncture in the fuel lines somewhere. You can replace the fuel line that goes to the priming bulb, temporarily, with clear tubing and see if bubbles are forming when it does not start. It is likely that some of the fuel lines are leaking somewhere, it could be the quick release connectors or the fuel filer somewhere. When you prime it, it is a one-way valve, so you are basically purging the system of air until it is left and air goes inside.
More molecules ,, i have a last question i hope is not gone sound stupid because of my lack experience with cars when you remove the return leak hose pipe ,I noticed you pushed in the the injector nozzle to prevent air going in so when you turn the car on so no fuel comes out from that pipe ?
It's a good question! Basically yes, this is the return hose to the fuel tank. Any fuel that is "leaked-off" will be returned to the fuel tank. The injectors are under immense pressure and not all fuel is used, there will always be stuff that is "returned". The whole system is closed system, I blocked this, so air does not get sucked back in the fuel tank, but it is not entirely crucial. It is easier to pressurize the system afterwards, although probably does not matter that much, but is a good practice to not have fuel spilled everywhere.
Hi more molecules , I really enjoy watching you're videos well dune and thank you for explaining in details. I have a question for I would like to do the same test in my Peugeot partner blue hdi 1.6 I have a Sealey vs 2048 diesel injection leak back master kit. but mine return leak hose pipe doesn't have the clip when you remove the pipe it has in the top to a plastic when you remove and by refitting just push down the plastic and it clicks in so how is gone effect me by using the tool test because of different design of my leak hose returner. much appreciated if you can give me some advise .
@@moremolecules thank you for replying to me just worried is not gone leak when I do the test because of no clip connection in mine . thank you once a again for the reply.
@@Alex34417 Ahh, I got it, mine is with a metal clip, yours is just push-fit type thing. As long as the push fit thing is the original it should be OK. If you see it leaking, just stop the engine. It is diesel, so much more difficult to start a fire, so not that much of a problem. When I was making the video I had not secured one very well (had to re-film again) and I simply stopped the engine and then secured it correctly.
Hi got slight misfire only in neutral? .. AA man said faulty fuel pump so I have renewed at new one but the issue remains ? I was thinking my next port of call would be the Fuel filter? ..
Not too sure about the fuel filter, unless it is really old and clogged. Of course, if you have changed the fuel pump the filter should be changed as well, but doubt it will help you much. Leak off the injectors to see if you have other problems
Do you know reasonable correction values? I've got one cylinder that's +1.5 at idle and -2 at 2000 rpm, then drops to 0.26 at 3200 rpm... Engine is idling horribly and wobbles at low rpm, almost feels like a misfire.
So i have replaced my injection seals on my 1.6hdi 3 attempts on cylinder 3 and 3 seals waisted.... i heve a leak on top of the injection clamp....16nm and it's still leaking from the clamp .....what is your thoughts on the problem. I have replaced the return line washer ring also!
Hi Catharina, did you use a reamer tool to clean the seat of the injector? If the injector seat is not completely flat it will leak as the seal will not seal that well. You do not need to completely resurface the injector seat (where seal falls on), but just a few micro meters to be flat.
No i don't have that toolkit but i may scratch the international and external wall when removing the black injection seal with the small dentist picking set. nr3 was very difficult to remove. Do you have a link to that toolkit . Thanks for your fast reply. ;-)
@@catharinacarroll7908 No worries. E-bay has plenty of these, but I cannot give you much info on quality, as I have not tested them. See here for example: www.ebay.co.uk/itm/282649652157 The wall is not that a problem, the seat needs to be flat for the washer to seal against. It depends on how clean it was to begin with, but if you are applying 16Nm and still leaking you need to clean it well. These are copper washers and will distort to cover indentations, but up to a degree. Have a try with one of these reamer tools and it should work. Do not use it to a degree where you would need 2 washers 🙂
Can u help me with cleaning them without taking them out? I saw someone cleans injectors with pure liquid molly additives by plugin the fuel lines into the additive and run it on pure additive. What lines to use for it?
Yes, I know what you mean and I have had it on my to do list. You need to disconnect the two pipes coming from the tank (on the left of the engine, push fit clips) and bypass the fuel filter. Basically the same push fits with a pipe straight connection, in other words you bypass the filter. You need to also make sure there is no air in the system with squeezing the bulb-type thing on top of the engine.
@@CarloLeonKolega Yes, certainly. There are a few people that already asked me to do it. I have it on my todo list, but just many other things. I should have it in a month or two.
Hi i changed my injector seal started the car worked few seconds fine but stopped dont want to start agane.i am esuming there could be air trapped but dont know what to do now anyone got idea what is happening thankyou
Yes, you probably have air trapped in the fuel lines. Try pumping the rubber bulb/pump until you hear no air going through or until hard. Basically, you want to get through a large amount of fuel from the fuel tank through the fuel system until you have cleared it from air. See if that helps.
ΠΕΙΤΕ ΜΟΥ ΜΟΥ ΝΑ ΒΡΩ ΣΤΗΝ ΕΛΛΑΔΑ ΕΝΑΝ ΜΗΧΑΝΙΚΟ ΣΑΝ ΑΥΤΟΝ ΕΔΩ ΣΕ ΑΥΤΟ ΤΟ ΒΙΝΤΕΟ ? NΑ ΑΓΑΠΑΕΙ ΤΟ ΑΥΤΟΚΙΝΗΤΟ ΤΟΥ , ΤΟ PEUGEOT . Thank you my friend for your lesson.
Yes, if the injectors are new they need to be coded in the ECU. If you are just replacing the washer, then there is no need to program if they are put in the same place. There will be code on the injector itself that needs to be coded in the ECU with Diagbox (Lexia for Citroen, PP2000 for Peugeot).
@moremolecules he has the icarsoft professional multi system car diagnostic tool. Its the FR V2.0 designed for French and Italian vehicles. It does sas. Etc, epb, dpf, bms, abs bleeding, oil reset, injector codinging, so I'm hoping this would work if an injector needed to be reprogrammed.
injectors 2 and 4 need replaced there is nothing left to debate....then spill test again and compare the difference between the old ones and new ones and decide if all is good from there......
A follow up on this: ua-cam.com/video/zKzCqUeVqv0/v-deo.html
How to remove the fuel return pipe from the kit without spilling any fuel and how to effectively block the main return and not to have fuel spilling around.
I am fighting with rough idling from time to time which i can't really solve. I never had an ECU update in my 207sw 1.6HDi so it still idles at 833 1/min. I'd love to increase the idle revs but this is not done without really expensive equipment. After seeing your video i now ordered a leak-off kit from Amazon and will check that. Thank you for making these great to understand videos, theis is invaluable.
Befor removing your injector kit transparrent lines clamp each one near the injector befor removing this will reduce the amount of spillage,
Great video just having to do this to my ford focus today
Ahh, yes, thank you for the good suggestion. Clamping would make my life easier with spillage.
how did it go with your focus did it work out for you ?
@@Norgesbeste1 To be honest after breaking my ankle then having a op I was not able to get to it until several months, by then the fungi and mold had taken its toll , I scrapped it as getting professional cleaners in would of cost to much and then you still have spores sitting in places, like behind air vents,and in the seat foam etc , then I would still have to spend money sorting the issue out,
Anyway`s replaced for a Suzuki sport 1.6 non turbo, so less things to go wrong with this engine , just suffer from rust underneath being japan make,just a little extra on fuel being non turbo .but sounds nice out the exhaust using its natural flow of air intake giving that resonance note,
So all turned out good in the end,😉
Your videos are fantastic and very educational, thank you so much.
Hi Roland, many thanks for the good words.
Just wanted to say thanks for all the tutorials 👍👍
Many thanks indeed for the encouragement, much appreciated.
Fantastic how to. Clear and easy, spot on
I think injector order is actually 4-3-2-1 from left to right. Thanks for tutorials.
Absolutely right, it is 4321, I was just counting from left to right.
Those brittle tubes remind me so much of Intel stock cooler's pushpins... :) also thank you so much for the videos, I have the same engine, your videos are a perfect reference
you need to put a hole in the caps (white ones) so the air can get out because I found that the transparent tube are sealing quite well on the caps and air is trapped inside. before piercing the caps I got inconsistent results due to air trap resistance
Many thanks for the very good advice. I should have done it at least 2 times and I would have probably seen this. I will try to see if it was sealing well.
Did you have tray Tunap 989 injektorcleaner
Hi there,
I liked very much your tutorial and just want to say thanks and send a congratulation for this video. I subscribed your channel and I will continue to follow your work know.
Hi Eduardo, thank you very much indeed for the kind words. Hope I can keep the good videos :-)
I was wondering what and where the green plastic washers where for in the injector sealkit...the return lines!!! Thanks.
why is there a clicking and whistling sound after turning off the engine, because that exact sound i have at my peugeot as well 😆
how much time it needed to fill the tubes until half... thanks
Hi there, well there are multiple solenoids and other things that close at shut off, e.g. EGR valve, turbo wastegate. When vacuum cannot hold them they close.
A good injector should return
Can I ask why unplug the injector loom then put it back on again for the test
Because you cannot remove the leak-off pipe without removing the injector loom. It goes over the original leak-off piping.
Excellent and detailed. Only one question. I did not understand why you unplug the injectors and then plug it again. It is not possible to do the test without unplugging them at all;
Because the leak-off pipe is behind them. Rather difficult to remove with the injectors plugged in.
Good job my friend, this channel, all time imazing video..
Do you know what adapters will fit the 1.5 bluehdi injectors as they are slightly different and the kit i buy none of the adapters fit even tho injectors are Bosch 😬
Good tutorial thanks😊
I have a Ford fiesta 1.6 TCDi basically this exact engine… I have an issue with it cutting out… i prime the fuel again and it starts up and runs an drives… if left for a few days it won’t start? Any idea what this could be? I have replaced
Fuel lines that run across the top of the engine but not the leak off line
Fuel rail pressure sensor
Fuel pump sucker solenoid
Crank sensor
EGR valve
Any help would be much appreciated thanks 🙏
Most likely you have a small puncture in the fuel lines somewhere. You can replace the fuel line that goes to the priming bulb, temporarily, with clear tubing and see if bubbles are forming when it does not start. It is likely that some of the fuel lines are leaking somewhere, it could be the quick release connectors or the fuel filer somewhere.
When you prime it, it is a one-way valve, so you are basically purging the system of air until it is left and air goes inside.
Are you planning a follow up once you have added the cleaner to identify if this does indeed work.
Hi Lawrence, Yes indeed. I was thinking of adding injector cleaner and then do the same test to see if this has unblocked injector 2.
More molecules ,, i have a last question i hope is not gone sound stupid because of my lack experience with cars when you remove the return leak hose pipe ,I noticed you pushed in the the injector nozzle to prevent air going in so when you turn the car on so no fuel comes out from that pipe ?
It's a good question! Basically yes, this is the return hose to the fuel tank. Any fuel that is "leaked-off" will be returned to the fuel tank. The injectors are under immense pressure and not all fuel is used, there will always be stuff that is "returned". The whole system is closed system, I blocked this, so air does not get sucked back in the fuel tank, but it is not entirely crucial. It is easier to pressurize the system afterwards, although probably does not matter that much, but is a good practice to not have fuel spilled everywhere.
@@moremolecules thank you for the details , you're a star .
Plz can you told me what is the reason for blocked injector(retren all the diesel)I change injectors many times?
That is a bit extreme! New injectors need to be coded in the ECU. Did you do that?
Hi more molecules , I really enjoy watching you're videos well dune and thank you for explaining in details. I have a question for I would like to do the same test in my Peugeot partner blue hdi 1.6 I have a Sealey vs 2048 diesel injection leak back master kit. but mine return leak hose pipe doesn't have the clip when you remove the pipe it has in the top to a plastic when you remove and by refitting just push down the plastic and it clicks in so how is gone effect me by using the tool test because of different design of my leak hose returner. much appreciated if you can give me some advise .
Not too sure what the ends are, but the sealey VS2048 looks exactly the same as mine, it should be the same procedure.
@@moremolecules thank you for replying to me just worried is not gone leak when I do the test because of no clip connection in mine . thank you once a again for the reply.
@@Alex34417 Ahh, I got it, mine is with a metal clip, yours is just push-fit type thing. As long as the push fit thing is the original it should be OK. If you see it leaking, just stop the engine. It is diesel, so much more difficult to start a fire, so not that much of a problem. When I was making the video I had not secured one very well (had to re-film again) and I simply stopped the engine and then secured it correctly.
@@moremolecules thank you very much
Is this give same information as injectors deviation result with VCDS diagnostic tool ?
They would be different things. This is a physical measure. The injector deviation is a bit different and it would not give how much blocked they are.
Hi got slight misfire only in neutral? .. AA man said faulty fuel pump so I have renewed at new one but the issue remains ? I was thinking my next port of call would be the Fuel filter? ..
Not too sure about the fuel filter, unless it is really old and clogged. Of course, if you have changed the fuel pump the filter should be changed as well, but doubt it will help you much. Leak off the injectors to see if you have other problems
@@moremolecules put diesal cleaner any good ?
@@philipmaguire9209 Maybe, depends. Worth a try for little money basically. Chuck in a bottle in 20L of diesel left in the tank and drive with it.
Do you know reasonable correction values? I've got one cylinder that's +1.5 at idle and -2 at 2000 rpm, then drops to 0.26 at 3200 rpm... Engine is idling horribly and wobbles at low rpm, almost feels like a misfire.
Yeah, that is way too much. The sign does not matter, but in all circumstances it should be between +/- 1.
What is the scale on the bootles?
They are ~100ml each max.
So i have replaced my injection seals on my 1.6hdi 3 attempts on cylinder 3 and 3 seals waisted.... i heve a leak on top of the injection clamp....16nm and it's still leaking from the clamp .....what is your thoughts on the problem. I have replaced the return line washer ring also!
Hi Catharina, did you use a reamer tool to clean the seat of the injector? If the injector seat is not completely flat it will leak as the seal will not seal that well. You do not need to completely resurface the injector seat (where seal falls on), but just a few micro meters to be flat.
No i don't have that toolkit but i may scratch the international and external wall when removing the black injection seal with the small dentist picking set. nr3 was very difficult to remove. Do you have a link to that toolkit . Thanks for your fast reply. ;-)
@@catharinacarroll7908 No worries. E-bay has plenty of these, but I cannot give you much info on quality, as I have not tested them. See here for example: www.ebay.co.uk/itm/282649652157
The wall is not that a problem, the seat needs to be flat for the washer to seal against. It depends on how clean it was to begin with, but if you are applying 16Nm and still leaking you need to clean it well. These are copper washers and will distort to cover indentations, but up to a degree. Have a try with one of these reamer tools and it should work. Do not use it to a degree where you would need 2 washers 🙂
Thank you for your help i will order cutting kit and hope it works ... have your self a good start to 2022.☆
@@catharinacarroll7908 No worries at all. Happy New 2022 Year to you too. Hope it is better for all of us.
It will work with the reamer tool.
Can u help me with cleaning them without taking them out? I saw someone cleans injectors with pure liquid molly additives by plugin the fuel lines into the additive and run it on pure additive. What lines to use for it?
Yes, I know what you mean and I have had it on my to do list. You need to disconnect the two pipes coming from the tank (on the left of the engine, push fit clips) and bypass the fuel filter. Basically the same push fits with a pipe straight connection, in other words you bypass the filter. You need to also make sure there is no air in the system with squeezing the bulb-type thing on top of the engine.
@@moremolecules I really dont understand sorry. If you ever make a video please tag me haha Tnx. Have a good day
@@CarloLeonKolega Yes, certainly. There are a few people that already asked me to do it. I have it on my todo list, but just many other things. I should have it in a month or two.
@@moremolecules k brother good luck with your projects
Hi i changed my injector seal started the car worked few seconds fine but stopped dont want to start agane.i am esuming there could be air trapped but dont know what to do now anyone got idea what is happening thankyou
Yes, you probably have air trapped in the fuel lines. Try pumping the rubber bulb/pump until you hear no air going through or until hard. Basically, you want to get through a large amount of fuel from the fuel tank through the fuel system until you have cleared it from air. See if that helps.
@@moremolecules thankyou for your help all sorted now .life is much easy those days allways there is some one can give you right edvice
Hi what problems were you having that you changed the seals?
What mm these pipe?
The silicone tube/pipe or the plastic on the injectors?
@@moremoleculesplastic on the injector? Thanks a lot!
@@adanali0-01 I'll get back to you as I have to measure it, haha.
NICE VIDEO
ΠΕΙΤΕ ΜΟΥ ΜΟΥ ΝΑ ΒΡΩ ΣΤΗΝ ΕΛΛΑΔΑ ΕΝΑΝ ΜΗΧΑΝΙΚΟ ΣΑΝ ΑΥΤΟΝ ΕΔΩ ΣΕ ΑΥΤΟ ΤΟ ΒΙΝΤΕΟ ? NΑ ΑΓΑΠΑΕΙ ΤΟ ΑΥΤΟΚΙΝΗΤΟ ΤΟΥ , ΤΟ PEUGEOT . Thank you my friend for your lesson.
Have all new injectors need to be reprogramed?
Yes, if the injectors are new they need to be coded in the ECU. If you are just replacing the washer, then there is no need to program if they are put in the same place. There will be code on the injector itself that needs to be coded in the ECU with Diagbox (Lexia for Citroen, PP2000 for Peugeot).
@moremolecules he has the icarsoft professional multi system car diagnostic tool. Its the FR V2.0 designed for French and Italian vehicles. It does sas. Etc, epb, dpf, bms, abs bleeding, oil reset, injector codinging, so I'm hoping this would work if an injector needed to be reprogrammed.
Does need to do coding if replacing refurbished injectors? Thanks
injectors 2 and 4 need replaced there is nothing left to debate....then spill test again and compare the difference between the old ones and new ones and decide if all is good from there......