I found this video inexpressiblely helpful as a poor guy in this industry. I believe I can build up my van injectors by watching this video. I made a subscription to your channel forever as a gratitude for your efforts to make such a wonderful videos for tomorrow . Thanks a billions.
Thanks for another great video, Stephen. This guy makes the best instructional videos of this type on UA-cam. I would like to thank him for the time and patience he has extended to me.
Who is ready to check their diesel fuel injectors for good operation, and then give them a nozzle clean? This is the new version of this video, and I’ve included some great extras that were suggested to me by you guys! If you do the leak-off test, and you find that the amount of diesel in each vial is vastly different, or if the amounts are a lot different to what you see in the video - then you should remove your injector/s and send them off for a professional rebuild using genuine Bosch parts, and a re-calibration (you will need to re-code your injectors after). If the leak-off test shows that there are no issues with the injector's high pressure ball valve then you may want to go on to clean the injector nozzles, to make sure that no blocked holes are causing a bad spray pattern. Your engine will continue to run reasonably ok with one, two, or even three blocked nozzle holes, but the resulting bad spray pattern will eventually cause wear on your engine's cylinder walls. It is the slow death of your engine. By doing this service every 100,000 miles, you can help your engine last much longer! Here is a breakdown of the chapters in this video: 0:38 Corrected Subtitles are now available for all Steven B Tuner videos 1:02 BMW Bosch Diesel Injector Servicing - Vehicle Preparation 1:47 BMW Bosch Diesel Injector Servicing Leak-off Test - Get to the Injectors 2:31 BMW Bosch Diesel Injector Servicing Leak-off Test - Remove Injector Connections 3:55 BMW Bosch Diesel Injector Servicing Leak-off Test - Connect Test Equipment 5:41 BMW Bosch Diesel Injector Servicing Leak-off Test - Run Leak Off Test 7:13 BMW Bosch Diesel Injector Servicing Leak-off Test - Are the Injectors Good? 7:46 BMW Bosch Diesel Injector Removal Tips 10:02 BMW Bosch Diesel Injector Nozzle Cleaning - Disassemble Injectors 13:36 BMW Bosch Diesel Injector Nozzle Cleaning - Inspect Dirty Nozzle 14:09 BMW Bosch Diesel Injector Nozzle Cleaning - Ultrasonic Clean the Nozzles 15:06 BMW Bosch Diesel Injector Nozzle Cleaning - Inspect the Ultrasonic Cleaned Nozzle 15:44 BMW Bosch Diesel Injector Nozzle Cleaning - Pressure Washer Clean the Nozzles 16:34 BMW Bosch Diesel Injector Nozzle Cleaning - Re-assemble the Injectors 19:01 BMW Bosch Diesel Injector Nozzle Cleaning - Injector Installation Tips, Reaming and Cleaning 20:56 BMW Bosch Diesel Injector Nozzle Cleaning - Febi Bilstein Special High Temperature Ceramic Grease
Hello again Steven . Picture says 1000 words. During this video @ 10:20 , with your left hand you touch the injector, this is the part of the injector I mean when I say sleeve/shaft with the O-Ring on it too, this shaft can slide up and down(no side to side movement) 10-15mm on 2 of my injectors but other 2 soild. Any help appreciated thanks from Leon.
@@ay7pre Hi, the nozzle cleaning has just brought the injectors back to how they were when they were calibrated, so there is no coding as long as you put them back in the same cylinder, and keep the parts for each injector together throughout the whole process.
Thank you for your help in making this video. I removed my 4 bosh injectors from my opel corsa diesel and cleaned the nozzles using an ultrasonic cleaner like you did. The car is running much smoother now. The acceleration is very smooth. My car has 290k km. Thanks again
@@StevenBTuner Hello, i have a n57 engine with 105k miles, it runs perfect no rough idling, no smoke nothing runs like new, but there is only one and only one issue, when i take the engine cover off i can see wetness around 3 out of my 6 injectors. Does this indicate bad seal o rings(copper ones)or is it something more serious ? Thank you in advance your answer would help me a lot !!
@@Flatwaterkayakpm yes, you have a small leak around the injectors. You will need to remove them and replace all copper washers. First I would recommend cleaning the area and observe it for a week just to make sure that it is not a spillage of oil before you start.
Hi, Steven! The video was really good! I would like to add some tips from my own experience: 1. After the disassemble of the fuel injectors, I recommend to put them vertically in a jar with concentrated drain cleaner and leave them in the jar for 2 hours but be careful, the level of the drain cleaner needs to not exceed the middle of the injectors (this will help with the opening of the thread and it helps clean the deposit much easier). 2. As the solution that I use in the ultrasonic cleaner device is concentrated drain cleaner and for the rinsing I use isopropyl alcohol. 3. After you assemble the components of the injector, before you thread it, put a small amount of thread blocker (this is going to help with possible future loses of fuel). Keep going with the awesome videos!
Hi Lenard, what do you mean "drain cleaner"? Any specific type of it? (Hungarian is OK as well). Thread blocker you mean a thread locker, like Loctite? What exact type do you use? Thank you your answer in advance!
@@mihalym.6876 Hi Mihaly , drain cleaner = pure liquid sodium or potasium hidroxide . (lugos oldat amit a Lidl lehet kapni,amit a viz lefolyok kidugaszolasahoz hasznalnak.Ami fontos hogy fojekony oldat legyen. Loctite is ok. (A menetett jo egy csep Loctite-al leblokolni, de ha lehet elote zsiroldo szerel letakaritani,peldaul fekrendszer takarito spray-el )
As many others have already mentioned these are great videos, well done. Cleaned my N47 BMW DPF after viewing a few of your videos and great results. I did used a pressure washer as well which appears to get some extra ash out. Checked DPF with camera after and no damage. Now very low back pressure and performance restored to like new. Many thanks.
Steven, you're amazing. I have a 2010 BMW 316d LCI and at least 1 injector is dodgy, putting the yellow "drive slowly" light on. I saw white smoke, smelling of diesel, from the exhaust. I was frightened of the injectors at £1200 ($1600) the set. Not any more, thanks to you. I owe you, mate. Brilliant.
@@StevenBTuner I've just removed 1 injector (twice). I bought a used replacement for £25 and I'll see how it goes now. I had to remove the replacement because I was too tight to buy a new copper washer. Once annealed, it's OK now. You've been a massive help to me and I'm grateful.
@@StevenBTuner Update later. I did still have a problem. Fuel starvation on high loads. Bought a leak-off kit and a second hand injector. The test showed the "new" injector (cheap ebay buy) hardly leaked back whereas the old ones filled 30ml in a minute at tickover. Off to ebay for more. So much fuel leaking back that the high pressure rail pressure was low. My old injectors did 137,000 miles / 220,000km. Very grateful for your help.
An easy test you can do if u experience hard starting is to just simply remove the connectors and return line from the injectors and crank the engine, there should be NO leakage coming from the injectors, any diesel leaking from an injector doing this test is a bad injector and needs to be checked. Great vid :D Edit: this test is obviously only viable if the high pressure pump and rail is generating pressure to the injectors
Hi, your videos are well presented and easy to follow and understand. They encourage DIY mechanics like me to have a go at doing our own refurbs and repairs, etc, and also save ££££’s. Thank you!
I watched your video and finally did the leakoff test after putting it off for months.🤭 tnx😉 Major! leak on 1 injector. Thats probably why it has low rail pressure during crank & long crank in cold weather. Ordered a replacement.🙂
Wow! After watching this video now I want to refurbish my injectors too. Wish i own an ultrasound cleaner. I know that device make miraculous cleaning. Thanks for the good tips
@@StevenBTuner your more than welcome, when ever I need in depth proper tutorial video's, this is where i come, I have learnt a great deal of information from you, so thank you for your time and effort i am a huge fan
I used a 1/4 drive socket fitted backwards on the extension to clean the injector hole. Find one that’s a good fit. Ideally measure do it’s same diameter as the injector end. I stock on some self adhesive abrasive to clean the metal and lubricated it with WD40. Helps the filings to stick. Vacuum the hole clean, check and redo if necessary.
10:45... I always thought that these had to be as tight as could as the tension of the spring inside was regulated by the thickness of the shims... you know the shims, usely 2 per while calibrating the tension of the spring. 20:34 I insert a sharp wooden dowel in there to block the chamber hole and blow compressed air around to get the carbon out holding the dowel. and I glue th washer with some grease to keep it from falling down.
Nice video, done this few times... Exact, good, and right procedure. Just one very very important note: Never ever ever never under no circumstance EVER REUSE!!!!!!! copper washer!!!!! Always buy NEW and ORiGINAL washers before this procedure. And don't forget to clean injector hole like shown in this video. Especially bottom part where your Cooper washer sits... Good joob man, liked, subscribed. I am glad you got rid of, mouth sounds from your earlier videos... Good job jebeno mljackanje :)
Man that's a great video 👌👌👌 I've learned alot today I've got the BMW m57 engine in my range rover and I think she's got a bad injector or 2 !! At least I have a great know how to guide on how to test them
Hi, a full health check would start with error codes and then move on to a quick check of everything from the turbo (shaft movement/excess oil) to the intercooler (leaking hoses), and if you are removing the EGR then it could be the right time to make sure that the intake manifold starts of nice and clean, so that it can stay that way going forward.
Hi, the washers you get direct from Bosch are ready to use as far as I know, but if you were handling a lot of injector rebuilds then it would definitely be cost effective to buy bulk washers and treat them yourself.
Excellent video once again mate I wish my teachers at school could of explained things as good as you do and I may have learned a lot more. Great chanel thankyou.
One thing to say about cleaning injector holes in the head. DO NOT REAM if not necessary! PLUG THE HOLE while cleaning! So there is injector plugs ( a bronze/copper tip shaped like the injector tip with a threaded hole in the back). You push the plug deep in the hole and un-thread the rod leaving the plug in the injector hole. Then there is a fine brass wirebrush with a sleeve. Yo insert the wirebrush with the sleeve covering the bristles, then retract part of the sleeve to expose the bristles inside the injector hole on the flat surface and give it some twists to wirebrush the hole. Then with compressed air an a long tip you blow out all the gunk from the wirebrushing (the brass plug will still be seated and prevent any gunk entering the engine). Remove the plug by threading the rod on the back of the plug and pull the plug. Repeat for every cylinder. Reaming is needed if after wirebrushing there is pitting and score marks that could not be sealed by the copper washer. Reaming is quite bad, but as last resort may work. By reaming the injector will seat deeper in the chamber and can create a LOT of side effects. One of the worst side effects will be cracking the piston head because the diesel spray may wet the top of the piston causing a sharp cooling before ignition because the injector tip is much closer to the piston. I have a whole set of iveco truck pistons all of them have 5 cracks in the omega chamber of the piston aligning with the 5hole injection pattern. That truck head was reamed several times and the injector was sitting 3mm deeper than intended. those 3mm made this cracking possible. And by cracking i mean deep cracks and in several pistons even blown chunks of the omega chamber with huge loss of pressure under the piston creating major problems in the oiling system and PCV leading to runaway diesel engines and may blow up the turbo from improper oiling with contaminated oil and aerated oil from the huge crank pressure. All of this for 3mm of ream in a 120mm bore engine for a truck. In a passenger car tolerances are much higher (for the much smaller bore and stroke) and 1mm might create similar problems. So do not ream! and if you do, compensate with a thicker copper washer to sit the injector tip at precisely the right height!
@@StevenBTuner you're welcome. Congrats on all the content you do. I will actually clean my dpf based on your content. I actually am very close to the field of automotive beeing phd automotive enginer working at a prestigious automotive engineering university with many colaboration including Bosch diesel injection training center, zf, castrol and plenty others. I say this not to boast myself, but just to have a bit of perspective about my background as it do matters sometimes where the information is coming from.
Bookmarked this after I got a 004B10 code, the glow plug controller had been faulty before so I'm guessing it's had a knock on effect to one or more injectors. I now know how to run the leak off test, thank you!
Hi, they aren't directly related, but if the glow plugs aren't operating then there could certainly be a bit more black soot clogging up the combustion chamber every time you do a cold start, which might end up in the fuel injector tips.
The sleeve nut on the bottom of the engine can be EXTREMELY tight. I used an 15mm AF deep six-point socket and 600mm breaker bar. The extra length gives better control but it was glad of it.
good stuff just pulled mine i have about 6mm of carbon on the tips.. might be why it was smoking (12v cummins ppump mechanical injectors) , you must moonlight as a radio DJ with that voice hahah
Hi, thanks for watching, and glad you appreciate the detail :-) There is no need to re-code as this job takes the injectors back to match the calibration that is written on them. If the top end is disassembled then they will need to be re-calibrated. Clearing any fuel trim adaptations isn't a bad idea though.
Pinch off leak line rather than running the line open into a containsr. The fuel is coming from the pressure relief valve and with the leak line pinched the PRV spill-off will find its proper way back to the fuel tank.
Oh no! I haven't seen one - could be worth buying an old injector on ebay or personally visiting a Bosch service center to see if they might take pity on you and have some parts knocking around in the back of a drawer...
Hi, there is a definite downside to using any kind of normal grease/Vaseline etc, and that is that you then have to get rid of all of it out of there too. I find that vacuuming it up is a lot quicker than fiddling around with more paper towel and solvents trying to get the grease out, and there will always be something that falls in to the hole regardless. Any leftover normal grease or Vaseline will carbonize with the extreme heat, and you risk permanently sticking your injector in place.
@@StevenBTuner but you don't really want carbon going down the bore either and you could even use the white heat resident paste instead of Vaseline if your that worried.
Well spotted! I had a close look at that, and it turned out to be small insect - it must have crawled into the tube before I connected it up. They are annoying little things that get everywhere for a week or so every year, and I have another one that has made its way into my computer monitor between the outside surface and the LCD, so it looks like a dead pixel.
Hi Steven, Thanks for this great video. I've just ultrasonic cleaned the nozzles for Bosch 110 injectors for Iveco 2.3 engine. It has helped significantly reduce the smoke during higher loads, but it's still not 100% and fumes still smell unburnt diesel. Would you recommend replacing the nozzle and needle at the bottom. I can see that it's possible to get the aftermarket ones for ~20$. There is torque/angle provided somewhere. I guess it's cheap enough I would be stupid not to try, but I've just thought you might have some idea about it.
Hi, it's hard to know for sure, but if you didn't see any visible scoring after the cleaning then the issue might also be with the top end of the injector. A leak-off test can help determine what you do next. Other factors are the value of the vehicle, and how long you intend to keep it. If you are going to keep it for 10 years then brand new injectors will be worth it, but if you are intending on keeping it only a few years then doing the top ends and the nozzles/tips could be perfect.
Great video! If the leak off test shows excessive amounts coming out of 1 or more injectors can the top of the injector be stuck open? I ask because after running bad fuel with sediment I only get good fuel pressure when I cap off the injectors. Thanks
Great video although I have a question. You started off with a leak test and then serviced the injectors. What happens if an injector failed you initial testing - would your servicing demonstrated here have rectified the failed injector and put back into service?
Hi, if the leak off test fails then the top end will need new parts and the calibration values will have to be re-created. I should mention that having perfect calibration values is not always essential for good running and that there are many folk who have re-built the top end themselves. Be aware that it is a risk, and make your choice :-)
Hi, you can get top end parts too. It will change the calibration, but many folk have done it and found that the engine ECU will compensate enough to provide smooth running.
The copper washer should be heated up with a propane torch and inserted into the water. The washer softened in this way and will lie nicely and seal the injector.
Hi, thanks for watching! I suspect that if you make some scribed lines when taking everything apart and then use them to re-assemble things then calibration shouldn't be effected. Putting in new parts is likely to change things though. How much things change is not something I've tested yet, and there are many folk that have claimed that their cars run fine without the correct calibration values, which could well be the case as older types of injectors never had such a thing.
Superb video, very clear. Thanks. I do have a couple of questions... I thought this leak off pipe was a one way thing for recycling"unused" fuel back to the pump. If that's the case why is there so much fuel coming back down that line and into your white canister.
Short version: the low pressure fuel tank pump is pushing fuel out of the disconnected fuel bleed off lines. Long version: There's a low pressure fuel pump in the fuel tank that sends fuel to the engine bay. This pump moves more fuel than the engine needs even at full throttle, and most goes in a loop back to the tank. There is a T piece that sends a line off this loop to the high pressure fuel pump, so that it has a little positive inlet pressure and doesn't have to suck fuel from the tank. The injector bleed lines go back to the loop and bled fuel returns to the fuel tank. The bleed off pressure easily overcomes the low pressure in the fuel tank to engine loop and returns to the fuel tank. However when the bleed lines are entirely disconnected there is nothing to stop the low pressure pump pushing fuel out of the open lines, this is why his catch tank filled up so much.
Great video! It would have been good to see the ISTA+ smoooth running correction values before and after this procedure. I have a 2013 330d that has a rattle between 1500-2000rpm under light load and two cylinders are showing as significantly worse (but still within spec) than the other four on the smooth running test. I'll be doing this procedure and reporting back with my results. Way less room with a 6 cylinder...
Thanks alot for a easily understandable DIY video about these injectors. I've some Bosch injectors for a PSA DV6 engine, I belive they are pretty identical, who need a cleanup after 16 years and 292.000KM :-)
@@StevenBTuner Hehe, yes I guess you're right. Still I've used some diesel booster last couple of years, so it runs pretty clean. I just did the job with new copper gaskets and sealings on this car. Unfortunately the ones who did this job before me has done a left-hand job, so I had quite some struggles to do it properly. Now one injector are not working properly at low rpm / low load, ok at load, so I'll do the cleanup on all 4 and see if it helps..
@@StevenBTuner Feedback: All 4 had perfect spread. Surprise! No blocking, not even a slight hint of anything but a nice spray! I guess that diesel-booster I always use is doing the job. These injectors have been sat for at least 150.000KMs since a local Ford garage had the job with cleaning and replacing the copper shims... I'm quite sure they did not do anything but that job, no cleaning like you showed in video here. But... One of the injectors has been beaten quite alot, both by Ford garage (who gave up extracting that one) and now me when I after hours with heat, solvents and force finally managed to pull it out. I also found broken treads in one of the clamp bolts for that specific injector, so now Im starting the fun job with Time-Sert and see if that works fine. Hmm... Another reason never leave the job to "proffesionals", hehe.
Hello! Wonderful to find a good video for such a specific car. My N47 has 225,000 miles or 362k Kilometer. I’m getting ready to do a lot of major servicing including this. However I’m lacking a good set of tools for proper cleaning. I see that a completely new set of injectors OEM is fairly expensive but actually cheaper and easier to get than all of the equipment needed to properly clean. Would it be worth it to go ahead and replace all the injectors?
Hi, thanks for watching! There is absolutely nothing wrong with putting in new injectors, especially if you are planning to keep the car for a long time. Your biggest challenge might be getting them to come out - so definitely get the engine really warm before you start the job.
@@StevenBTuner I've used water, a few cups vinegar, and squirts of washing up liquid on the advice of ...maybe Steve's Small Engines. To economise you can put pieces in glass and filled with carb cleaner (apparently; personally, I know nothing).
@@StevenBTuner je vais acheter la meme machine ultrason que toi est-ce une 40w ou 100w ? Faut il acheter son liquide aussi ? Enfin dois je reprogrammer mes injecteurs ? Merci d'avance
yes thank you. seems though allot of the products are out of stock. Do you have a link for your video on injector coding ? did you have to code after the cleaning ?
Hi, cleaning the injectors should bring them back closer to their original calibration values. It seems it is time for me to go through and correct those Amazon links!
@StevenBTuner lol you pulling my leg ..... a top end rebuild for excess leak off on the return lines . Or do you mean top of the injectors need building up with new parts pilot valve ect thanks for reply
When I did a leak of test from cold start for 2 minutes I got a volume of 85ml cylinder 1 73ml cylinder 2 62ml cylinder 3 64 ml cylinder 4 The car was just at idle the whole time . Car starts fine and runs fine I just expected to see around 20/30 ml in each cup relatively evenly. Car is a Corsa d 1.3cdti 2012 engine A13DTC . Thanks you if you can provide insight
Thank you so much, this video is great. I'm thinking of cleaning my BMW injectors myself thanks to you. I have one question tho, my 330D E46 has around 335 000 km and I know one of my injector is not great. I got the DDE warning sometime and I fix it with injector cleaning stuff poured in the fuel tank and it's working for some time but I feel that my engine isn't happy at low RPM. So my question is, do I have to test out the injectors if I plan to clean them all ? I don't have a lot of money otherwise I would buy new ones but I figured that the all cleaning kit (Injector removal kit + the ultrasonic cleaner) would be way way cheaper (around 120 euro). Do you think it's a good idea ? Thanks
Hi, thanks for watching! The leak-off test is mainly to test the top end of the injectors and the ultrasonic/pressure cleaning is to sort out the nozzle end. If you have over 100,000kms on the car then there is a good chance that there are one or more nozzle holes that are blocked and if your injectors have never been removed in 335,000kms then there are going to be lots of blocked holes. My thinking is that if there is a failure in the leak off test then there is no point doing any cleaning as the best course of action is to send the whole lot off for professional rebuilding or replacement. A small ultrasonic cleaner is great, as injector parts aren't very big.
Very useful video. If you can't avoid removing the top off the injector in order to pull it out, how do you calibrate it? I had to do it and my engine doesn't idle nicely now.
Just finished my first DIY cleaning of fuel injectors for a Volvo S60 2.4d. Result? The leek back test cam out with I:1, I:2, I3 having the same level of fuel in the return pipe, I:4 and I:5 are ~35% lower than the previous three injectors. I also have white smoke comming out of the exhaust and the engine doenst run smothly on idling, there is also a lot of shaking in the car and engine itself. Would you recommend on going back and re-cleaning them using a ultrasonic cleaner? I should also add I only managed to clean injectors 2 and 5. I wasn't able to unscrew the other three.. Note: The reason I was cleaning them was because the cam cover gasket was leaking and I had to take them out either way. Noticed a lot of soot in the ports so I went with the flow and cleaned them together with the EGR etc. Thanks in advance! :)
Hi, having different levels in the leak-off test is a strong indication that things aren't too good with the injectors. The car likes having the injectors closely matched, so it is always going to be best to clean them all the same amount. Also, double check all electrical connections to make sure all injectoers are firing.
Hi. Fantastic video 😊 Do you have a video on dismantling the top? I had to take the top off to loosen a stuck injector. No i dont get fuel out of HP pump. I am thinking this injector is not correct, so the system does not get pressurized.
I found this video inexpressiblely helpful as a poor guy in this industry. I believe I can build up my van injectors by watching this video. I made a subscription to your channel forever as a gratitude for your efforts to make such a wonderful videos for tomorrow . Thanks a billions.
I'm glad it can help you out!
Thanks for another great video, Stephen. This guy makes the best instructional videos of this type on UA-cam. I would like to thank him for the time and patience he has extended to me.
:-) :-)
Who is ready to check their diesel fuel injectors for good operation, and then give them a nozzle clean? This is the new version of this video, and I’ve included some great extras that were suggested to me by you guys!
If you do the leak-off test, and you find that the amount of diesel in each vial is vastly different, or if the amounts are a lot different to what you see in the video - then you should remove your injector/s and send them off for a professional rebuild using genuine Bosch parts, and a re-calibration (you will need to re-code your injectors after). If the leak-off test shows that there are no issues with the injector's high pressure ball valve then you may want to go on to clean the injector nozzles, to make sure that no blocked holes are causing a bad spray pattern. Your engine will continue to run reasonably ok with one, two, or even three blocked nozzle holes, but the resulting bad spray pattern will eventually cause wear on your engine's cylinder walls. It is the slow death of your engine. By doing this service every 100,000 miles, you can help your engine last much longer!
Here is a breakdown of the chapters in this video:
0:38 Corrected Subtitles are now available for all Steven B Tuner videos
1:02 BMW Bosch Diesel Injector Servicing - Vehicle Preparation
1:47 BMW Bosch Diesel Injector Servicing Leak-off Test - Get to the Injectors
2:31 BMW Bosch Diesel Injector Servicing Leak-off Test - Remove Injector Connections
3:55 BMW Bosch Diesel Injector Servicing Leak-off Test - Connect Test Equipment
5:41 BMW Bosch Diesel Injector Servicing Leak-off Test - Run Leak Off Test
7:13 BMW Bosch Diesel Injector Servicing Leak-off Test - Are the Injectors Good?
7:46 BMW Bosch Diesel Injector Removal Tips
10:02 BMW Bosch Diesel Injector Nozzle Cleaning - Disassemble Injectors
13:36 BMW Bosch Diesel Injector Nozzle Cleaning - Inspect Dirty Nozzle
14:09 BMW Bosch Diesel Injector Nozzle Cleaning - Ultrasonic Clean the Nozzles
15:06 BMW Bosch Diesel Injector Nozzle Cleaning - Inspect the Ultrasonic Cleaned Nozzle
15:44 BMW Bosch Diesel Injector Nozzle Cleaning - Pressure Washer Clean the Nozzles
16:34 BMW Bosch Diesel Injector Nozzle Cleaning - Re-assemble the Injectors
19:01 BMW Bosch Diesel Injector Nozzle Cleaning - Injector Installation Tips, Reaming and Cleaning
20:56 BMW Bosch Diesel Injector Nozzle Cleaning - Febi Bilstein Special High Temperature Ceramic Grease
Hello again Steven . Picture says 1000 words.
During this video @ 10:20 , with your left hand you touch the injector,
this is the part of the injector I mean when I say sleeve/shaft with the O-Ring on it too, this shaft can slide up and down(no side to side movement) 10-15mm on 2 of my injectors but other 2 soild.
Any help appreciated thanks from Leon.
thank you for the time you take to put all this details in here, it really makes a difference
@@ay7pre You're most welcome!
I wanted to know, after you clean the injectors, do you have to code them so that the engine will start again? or it just starts and runs as before?
@@ay7pre Hi, the nozzle cleaning has just brought the injectors back to how they were when they were calibrated, so there is no coding as long as you put them back in the same cylinder, and keep the parts for each injector together throughout the whole process.
Thank you for your help in making this video. I removed my 4 bosh injectors from my opel corsa diesel and cleaned the nozzles using an ultrasonic cleaner like you did. The car is running much smoother now. The acceleration is very smooth. My car has 290k km. Thanks again
Great job!
@@StevenBTuner Hello, i have a n57 engine with 105k miles, it runs perfect no rough idling, no smoke nothing runs like new, but there is only one and only one issue, when i take the engine cover off i can see wetness around 3 out of my 6 injectors. Does this indicate bad seal o rings(copper ones)or is it something more serious ? Thank you in advance your answer would help me a lot !!
@@Flatwaterkayakpm yes, you have a small leak around the injectors. You will need to remove them and replace all copper washers. First I would recommend cleaning the area and observe it for a week just to make sure that it is not a spillage of oil before you start.
Hi, Steven!
The video was really good! I would like to add some tips from my own experience:
1. After the disassemble of the fuel injectors, I recommend to put them vertically in a jar with concentrated drain cleaner and leave them in the jar for 2 hours but be careful, the level of the drain cleaner needs to not exceed the middle of the injectors (this will help with the opening of the thread and it helps clean the deposit much easier).
2. As the solution that I use in the ultrasonic cleaner device is concentrated drain cleaner and for the rinsing I use isopropyl alcohol.
3. After you assemble the components of the injector, before you thread it, put a small amount of thread blocker (this is going to help with possible future loses of fuel).
Keep going with the awesome videos!
Hi, thanks for sharing that great information!
Hi Lenard, what do you mean "drain cleaner"? Any specific type of it? (Hungarian is OK as well). Thread blocker you mean a thread locker, like Loctite? What exact type do you use? Thank you your answer in advance!
@@mihalym.6876
Hi Mihaly , drain cleaner = pure liquid sodium or potasium hidroxide . (lugos oldat amit a Lidl lehet kapni,amit a viz lefolyok kidugaszolasahoz hasznalnak.Ami fontos hogy fojekony oldat legyen. Loctite is ok.
(A menetett jo egy csep Loctite-al leblokolni, de ha lehet elote zsiroldo szerel letakaritani,peldaul fekrendszer takarito spray-el )
As many others have already mentioned these are great videos, well done.
Cleaned my N47 BMW DPF after viewing a few of your videos and great results. I did used a pressure washer as well which appears to get some extra ash out. Checked DPF with camera after and no damage. Now very low back pressure and performance restored to like new.
Many thanks.
Thanks, and great to hear that your DIY DPF clean worked well!
the DPF video was gold
Steven, you're amazing. I have a 2010 BMW 316d LCI and at least 1 injector is dodgy, putting the yellow "drive slowly" light on. I saw white smoke, smelling of diesel, from the exhaust. I was frightened of the injectors at £1200 ($1600) the set. Not any more, thanks to you. I owe you, mate. Brilliant.
Hi, there still might be something terminal with your injectors - but it is good to have the knowledge to check and correct everything you can.
@@StevenBTuner I've just removed 1 injector (twice). I bought a used replacement for £25 and I'll see how it goes now. I had to remove the replacement because I was too tight to buy a new copper washer. Once annealed, it's OK now. You've been a massive help to me and I'm grateful.
@@seankirby2580 Great to hear that it all worked out - well done!
@@StevenBTuner Update later. I did still have a problem. Fuel starvation on high loads. Bought a leak-off kit and a second hand injector. The test showed the "new" injector (cheap ebay buy) hardly leaked back whereas the old ones filled 30ml in a minute at tickover. Off to ebay for more. So much fuel leaking back that the high pressure rail pressure was low. My old injectors did 137,000 miles / 220,000km. Very grateful for your help.
@@seankirby2580 Hi, sounds like you are on the right track!
An easy test you can do if u experience hard starting is to just simply remove the connectors and return line from the injectors and crank the engine, there should be NO leakage coming from the injectors, any diesel leaking from an injector doing this test is a bad injector and needs to be checked. Great vid :D
Edit: this test is obviously only viable if the high pressure pump and rail is generating pressure to the injectors
I have to replace my cylinder head cover gasket tomorrow (B47 engine), and came across this video ( thank you) to clean the injectors too!
You are most welcome, and all the best with the job!
Hi, your videos are well presented and easy to follow and understand.
They encourage DIY mechanics like me to have a go at doing our own refurbs and repairs, etc,
and also save ££££’s.
Thank you!
Glad to help!
Great video. Easy to understand and many tips for people who doing this the first time. Great job. Thank you.
Welcome!
this is almost the best video I have seen to this theme - thank you. Very helpful also for an Merc W163 270 cdi
I'm glad to hear that it helps you out!
I watched your video and finally did the leakoff test after putting it off for months.🤭 tnx😉
Major! leak on 1 injector. Thats probably why it has low rail pressure during crank & long crank in cold weather.
Ordered a replacement.🙂
Good to know before it gets bad enough to cause major damage!
Changed the injector, cold starts immediately again 😊
Thanks!
You are most welcome!
This is just my cup of tea.
Excellent work.
I tried using injector cleaner directly on the nozzles but it is not effective.
The only way is your dismantling method 👍👍
They are stubborn little carbon deposits for sure!
Thanks Steven, I found your videos amazing - it gives a little confidence to do it yourself. Bless you.
I'm glad they help you out!
Wow! After watching this video now I want to refurbish my injectors too. Wish i own an ultrasound cleaner. I know that device make miraculous cleaning. Thanks for the good tips
:-) They will all need doing eventually! I'm glad you liked the tips.
It's not a miracle, but it works quite well. You also need good chemicals for good cleaning.
Best mechanic on youtube hands down
Thanks!
@@StevenBTuner your more than welcome, when ever I need in depth proper tutorial video's, this is where i come, I have learnt a great deal of information from you, so thank you for your time and effort i am a huge fan
20:15 a bertter way is to block the inside hole with a plastic/wood with the correct size and blow some compressed air to remove everithing outside.
A great idea!
Yes, or a long tapered punch!
That was really kind of you to make this video. Thanks!
I hope it helps you out!
I used a 1/4 drive socket fitted backwards on the extension to clean the injector hole. Find one that’s a good fit. Ideally measure do it’s same diameter as the injector end. I stock on some self adhesive abrasive to clean the metal and lubricated it with WD40. Helps the filings to stick. Vacuum the hole clean, check and redo if necessary.
Excellent tip!
10:45... I always thought that these had to be as tight as could as the tension of the spring inside was regulated by the thickness of the shims... you know the shims, usely 2 per while calibrating the tension of the spring. 20:34 I insert a sharp wooden dowel in there to block the chamber hole and blow compressed air around to get the carbon out holding the dowel. and I glue th washer with some grease to keep it from falling down.
Hi, thanks for sharing those great tips to make the job a bit easier!
Nice video, done this few times... Exact, good, and right procedure. Just one very very important note:
Never ever ever never under no circumstance EVER REUSE!!!!!!! copper washer!!!!! Always buy NEW and ORiGINAL washers before this procedure. And don't forget to clean injector hole like shown in this video. Especially bottom part where your Cooper washer sits... Good joob man, liked, subscribed.
I am glad you got rid of, mouth sounds from your earlier videos... Good job
jebeno mljackanje :)
Thanks for watching, and for noticing the improvements!
Excellent detailed procedure with easy to follow narrative. A++++
Glad you enjoyed it!
I must compliment you on an excellent video and clear instructions. Just did this today on my opel corsa 1.3l diesel and all is well. Thank you.
Awesome to hear! Those Corsa injectors are almost identical to the BMW injectors in the vid. Well done on a DIY success!
Did it run smoother John??
@@SalimKhan-gk1fh Hi, the most noticeable difference is usually quicker starting.
@@SalimKhan-gk1fh yes, acceleration is much smoother. Car engine is also quiter. My car has 290k km.
Hi just noticed, the part of the injector with the o-ring, is this shaft/ sleeve suppose to move/slide 10-15mm up or down thanks much appreciate
Really clear and informative video, took away a lot of the mystique about what can and can't be done to injectors.
Glad you got some good information!
Man that's a great video 👌👌👌 I've learned alot today I've got the BMW m57 engine in my range rover and I think she's got a bad injector or 2 !! At least I have a great know how to guide on how to test them
I hope it helps you get your Range Rover back to full health!
@@StevenBTuner me too I'm not sure if it's a turbo issue or an injector issue or both ?? 😂😂
...or as it usually goes: both of those plus a couple of more things!
@@StevenBTuner I'm Gona check the EGR valve aswell but I'm Gona do away with it to be honest !! Is there anything else you would recommend checking ??
Hi, a full health check would start with error codes and then move on to a quick check of everything from the turbo (shaft movement/excess oil) to the intercooler (leaking hoses), and if you are removing the EGR then it could be the right time to make sure that the intake manifold starts of nice and clean, so that it can stay that way going forward.
Very good demonstration Steven well done
:-)
The copper washers must be annealed before installation, otherwise there is a risk of exhaust fumes around the injector. Good job sir!
Hi, the washers you get direct from Bosch are ready to use as far as I know, but if you were handling a lot of injector rebuilds then it would definitely be cost effective to buy bulk washers and treat them yourself.
Excellent video once again mate I wish my teachers at school could of explained things as good as you do and I may have learned a lot more. Great chanel thankyou.
I'm glad you liked it! :-)
One thing to say about cleaning injector holes in the head.
DO NOT REAM if not necessary!
PLUG THE HOLE while cleaning!
So there is injector plugs ( a bronze/copper tip shaped like the injector tip with a threaded hole in the back). You push the plug deep in the hole and un-thread the rod leaving the plug in the injector hole. Then there is a fine brass wirebrush with a sleeve. Yo insert the wirebrush with the sleeve covering the bristles, then retract part of the sleeve to expose the bristles inside the injector hole on the flat surface and give it some twists to wirebrush the hole. Then with compressed air an a long tip you blow out all the gunk from the wirebrushing (the brass plug will still be seated and prevent any gunk entering the engine). Remove the plug by threading the rod on the back of the plug and pull the plug. Repeat for every cylinder.
Reaming is needed if after wirebrushing there is pitting and score marks that could not be sealed by the copper washer. Reaming is quite bad, but as last resort may work. By reaming the injector will seat deeper in the chamber and can create a LOT of side effects. One of the worst side effects will be cracking the piston head because the diesel spray may wet the top of the piston causing a sharp cooling before ignition because the injector tip is much closer to the piston. I have a whole set of iveco truck pistons all of them have 5 cracks in the omega chamber of the piston aligning with the 5hole injection pattern. That truck head was reamed several times and the injector was sitting 3mm deeper than intended. those 3mm made this cracking possible. And by cracking i mean deep cracks and in several pistons even blown chunks of the omega chamber with huge loss of pressure under the piston creating major problems in the oiling system and PCV leading to runaway diesel engines and may blow up the turbo from improper oiling with contaminated oil and aerated oil from the huge crank pressure. All of this for 3mm of ream in a 120mm bore engine for a truck. In a passenger car tolerances are much higher (for the much smaller bore and stroke) and 1mm might create similar problems.
So do not ream! and if you do, compensate with a thicker copper washer to sit the injector tip at precisely the right height!
Excellent points - thankyou for taking the time to write such a detailed comment!
@@StevenBTuner you're welcome. Congrats on all the content you do. I will actually clean my dpf based on your content. I actually am very close to the field of automotive beeing phd automotive enginer working at a prestigious automotive engineering university with many colaboration including Bosch diesel injection training center, zf, castrol and plenty others.
I say this not to boast myself, but just to have a bit of perspective about my background as it do matters sometimes where the information is coming from.
Great information
Bookmarked this after I got a 004B10 code, the glow plug controller had been faulty before so I'm guessing it's had a knock on effect to one or more injectors. I now know how to run the leak off test, thank you!
Hi, they aren't directly related, but if the glow plugs aren't operating then there could certainly be a bit more black soot clogging up the combustion chamber every time you do a cold start, which might end up in the fuel injector tips.
Seems a bit more complicated than spark plugs replacement. Thanks for the great video.
An outstanding video Steven. Thank you for sharing the benefit of your hard earned experience in meticulous detail.
Welcome!
The sleeve nut on the bottom of the engine can be EXTREMELY tight. I used an 15mm AF deep six-point socket and 600mm breaker bar. The extra length gives better control but it was glad of it.
Certainly is!
Excellent! A clear articulate explanation.
Welcome!
This has given me confidence to try this myself.
I hope you'll report back how it all goes!
The injector is tightened with a torque wrench to 50 LB and you can put a thread lock . Just a bit ... Great job !
Great information!
Lots of knowledge shared there good video.
Thanks 👍
You made that look easy! Well done sir.
Thanks 👍
good stuff just pulled mine i have about 6mm of carbon on the tips.. might be why it was smoking (12v cummins ppump mechanical injectors) , you must moonlight as a radio DJ with that voice hahah
Hi, good work! It could be a good idea to check the rest of the intake system for nasty buildups too.
Great video Steven. Well explained and easy to watch / listen to.
Thanks!
best assembly video, thank u very much
You are most welcome!
Thank You Steven i report back to You of my progress with my Skoda Superb 2011
All the best with the job!
Wow what a perfectly detailed job !!! Do you need to recode it? They definitely going to spray more than before...or at least clear adaptations?
Hi, thanks for watching, and glad you appreciate the detail :-) There is no need to re-code as this job takes the injectors back to match the calibration that is written on them. If the top end is disassembled then they will need to be re-calibrated. Clearing any fuel trim adaptations isn't a bad idea though.
Pinch off leak line rather than running the line open into a containsr. The fuel is coming from the pressure relief valve and with the leak line pinched the PRV spill-off will find its proper way back to the fuel tank.
Great idea!
Hey man I lost one of the very small spacers(@12:14) any way I can get a part number for the internal pieces to reorder?
Oh no! I haven't seen one - could be worth buying an old injector on ebay or personally visiting a Bosch service center to see if they might take pity on you and have some parts knocking around in the back of a drawer...
@@StevenBTuner had a feeling so thanks alot for the help brother
thanks for so much detailed video !
You're welcome!
Great educational videos!
Sir, You are a car hero!
:-) Thank you for watching!
Do you have to use new o rings when you re-install , as well as silicone grease ?
Can you please add in description what SIZE reamer you used?
Just found your channel. Really great videos. You are an true educator!
Welcome! :-)
Thanks a lot. Keep up what you doing.
Thanks, will do!
Tip of the day! If you put some Vaseline on the seat cutting tool the carbon stick to the Vaseline and a lot less if any will drop in side.
Hi, there is a definite downside to using any kind of normal grease/Vaseline etc, and that is that you then have to get rid of all of it out of there too. I find that vacuuming it up is a lot quicker than fiddling around with more paper towel and solvents trying to get the grease out, and there will always be something that falls in to the hole regardless. Any leftover normal grease or Vaseline will carbonize with the extreme heat, and you risk permanently sticking your injector in place.
@@StevenBTuner but you don't really want carbon going down the bore either and you could even use the white heat resident paste instead of Vaseline if your that worried.
Good job. Really helpful video. Tnx Steven
Hi, glad you like it!
6:11 isn't that a black moving debris in the lower tube, fuel filter is not working correctly, illuminate for me if I am wrong?
Well spotted! I had a close look at that, and it turned out to be small insect - it must have crawled into the tube before I connected it up. They are annoying little things that get everywhere for a week or so every year, and I have another one that has made its way into my computer monitor between the outside surface and the LCD, so it looks like a dead pixel.
@@StevenBTuner it's ok, the priority is for the dead pixel ^o^, but great video, good continuation
I very much enjoyed your video, one of the best & I was totally glued all through the process, can't wait to see the next video. ❤❤❤😊
Glad you liked it!
that was a stunning vid pal what great content
Thanks!
Hi Steven, Thanks for this great video. I've just ultrasonic cleaned the nozzles for Bosch 110 injectors for Iveco 2.3 engine. It has helped significantly reduce the smoke during higher loads, but it's still not 100% and fumes still smell unburnt diesel. Would you recommend replacing the nozzle and needle at the bottom.
I can see that it's possible to get the aftermarket ones for ~20$. There is torque/angle provided somewhere. I guess it's cheap enough I would be stupid not to try, but I've just thought you might have some idea about it.
Hi, it's hard to know for sure, but if you didn't see any visible scoring after the cleaning then the issue might also be with the top end of the injector. A leak-off test can help determine what you do next. Other factors are the value of the vehicle, and how long you intend to keep it. If you are going to keep it for 10 years then brand new injectors will be worth it, but if you are intending on keeping it only a few years then doing the top ends and the nozzles/tips could be perfect.
Wow, one of the best I've seen
Glad you got something out of it!
You are a Legend Steve
Thanks once more
Thanks!
Hi can you tell me what cleaning fluid did you use in the ultrasonic cleaner please
Hi, thanks for watching! It is carburettor cleaner.
Tnx watching your videos from baguio city philippines
Thanks for watching! :-)
Hi there
Can you help and show me where EGR valve location on 2015 ml 250 Bluetec
Thank you so much
So helpfull vedio thank you
Most welcome 😊
Great video! If the leak off test shows excessive amounts coming out of 1 or more injectors can the top of the injector be stuck open? I ask because after running bad fuel with sediment I only get good fuel pressure when I cap off the injectors. Thanks
Hi, it could certainly have something jammed in there causing the issue.
Great video although I have a question. You started off with a leak test and then serviced the injectors. What happens if an injector failed you initial testing - would your servicing demonstrated here have rectified the failed injector and put back into service?
Hi, if the leak off test fails then the top end will need new parts and the calibration values will have to be re-created. I should mention that having perfect calibration values is not always essential for good running and that there are many folk who have re-built the top end themselves. Be aware that it is a risk, and make your choice :-)
@@StevenBTuner can top end be serviced or that means needs new injector ?
Hi, you can get top end parts too. It will change the calibration, but many folk have done it and found that the engine ECU will compensate enough to provide smooth running.
Great video!!One of the best I have seen!!Thanks man!Keep up!!
I'm glad you like it!
The copper washer should be heated up with a propane torch and inserted into the water. The washer softened in this way and will lie nicely and seal the injector.
Hi, if the mating location is clean and smooth then there should be no issue with the washers provided from Bosch.
Only if you want to reuse them. Nowadays its not necessary.
Very therapeutic tutorial
Therapy for the injectors too :-)
@@StevenBTuner - lol, everyone's happy
Really glad i found your channel. Thx for great help!! Keep it up
Welcome to the channel! :-) It's really good to hear that it is helping you out!
Hi Steve, 8:52 can you please explain why/how the precise calibration is affected when removing the solenoid? Thanks
Hi, thanks for watching! I suspect that if you make some scribed lines when taking everything apart and then use them to re-assemble things then calibration shouldn't be effected. Putting in new parts is likely to change things though. How much things change is not something I've tested yet, and there are many folk that have claimed that their cars run fine without the correct calibration values, which could well be the case as older types of injectors never had such a thing.
The best vidéo on youtube. Thank you.
Thankyou for watching!
best video,thank you,the ultrasonic in video is 3-10-30L?
Hi, in the vid it is a 10.
Superb video, very clear. Thanks. I do have a couple of questions... I thought this leak off pipe was a one way thing for recycling"unused" fuel back to the pump. If that's the case why is there so much fuel coming back down that line and into your white canister.
Hi, the leak off fuel is used to cool the injectors.
Short version: the low pressure fuel tank pump is pushing fuel out of the disconnected fuel bleed off lines.
Long version: There's a low pressure fuel pump in the fuel tank that sends fuel to the engine bay. This pump moves more fuel than the engine needs even at full throttle, and most goes in a loop back to the tank.
There is a T piece that sends a line off this loop to the high pressure fuel pump, so that it has a little positive inlet pressure and doesn't have to suck fuel from the tank.
The injector bleed lines go back to the loop and bled fuel returns to the fuel tank. The bleed off pressure easily overcomes the low pressure in the fuel tank to engine loop and returns to the fuel tank. However when the bleed lines are entirely disconnected there is nothing to stop the low pressure pump pushing fuel out of the open lines, this is why his catch tank filled up so much.
@@jack504 Thanks....
It will be similar operation on a mk7 golf?
Great video.
Hi, you will have to look up the part numbers for your car to see if the injectors are of a similar type.
Great video! It would have been good to see the ISTA+ smoooth running correction values before and after this procedure. I have a 2013 330d that has a rattle between 1500-2000rpm under light load and two cylinders are showing as significantly worse (but still within spec) than the other four on the smooth running test. I'll be doing this procedure and reporting back with my results. Way less room with a 6 cylinder...
Hi, thanks for watching, and it will great to hear about your results!
Have you done the job? What are the results?
@@mihalym.6876 Hmm. The results.... 2 bent conrods, rust in bores, full bottom end rebuild. Look like it has drunk some water.
Super!! 👍👍 Vielen Dank aus Deutschland. Eine wirklich gute Anleitung. Top!
Thanks alot for a easily understandable DIY video about these injectors. I've some Bosch injectors for a PSA DV6 engine, I belive they are pretty identical, who need a cleanup after 16 years and 292.000KM :-)
Hi, at those kms there is guaranteed to be a few blocked holes!
@@StevenBTuner Hehe, yes I guess you're right. Still I've used some diesel booster last couple of years, so it runs pretty clean. I just did the job with new copper gaskets and sealings on this car. Unfortunately the ones who did this job before me has done a left-hand job, so I had quite some struggles to do it properly. Now one injector are not working properly at low rpm / low load, ok at load, so I'll do the cleanup on all 4 and see if it helps..
@@StevenBTuner Feedback: All 4 had perfect spread. Surprise! No blocking, not even a slight hint of anything but a nice spray! I guess that diesel-booster I always use is doing the job. These injectors have been sat for at least 150.000KMs since a local Ford garage had the job with cleaning and replacing the copper shims... I'm quite sure they did not do anything but that job, no cleaning like you showed in video here.
But... One of the injectors has been beaten quite alot, both by Ford garage (who gave up extracting that one) and now me when I after hours with heat, solvents and force finally managed to pull it out. I also found broken treads in one of the clamp bolts for that specific injector, so now Im starting the fun job with Time-Sert and see if that works fine. Hmm...
Another reason never leave the job to "proffesionals", hehe.
@@fiksefant All the best with the job!
Hello! Wonderful to find a good video for such a specific car. My N47 has 225,000 miles or 362k Kilometer.
I’m getting ready to do a lot of major servicing including this. However I’m lacking a good set of tools for proper cleaning. I see that a completely new set of injectors OEM is fairly expensive but actually cheaper and easier to get than all of the equipment needed to properly clean. Would it be worth it to go ahead and replace all the injectors?
Hi, thanks for watching! There is absolutely nothing wrong with putting in new injectors, especially if you are planning to keep the car for a long time. Your biggest challenge might be getting them to come out - so definitely get the engine really warm before you start the job.
Thanks so much for the video. It’s so helpful. Could you advise on what chemicals to use in the ultra sonic bath?
Hi, I used carburettor cleaner, but water on its own might work well enough too.
@@StevenBTuner thank you so much !!
@@anp9054 Most welcome!
@@StevenBTuner I've used water, a few cups vinegar, and squirts of washing up liquid on the advice of ...maybe Steve's Small Engines. To economise you can put pieces in glass and filled with carb cleaner (apparently; personally, I know nothing).
Amazing video, loved it.
Glad you enjoyed it!
You need this!!!
Thank you! Very instructive. But I don't think I will be refurbishing my injectors myself.
I understand, it's not for everyone...
Thank you very useful 😊
A very clear informative video. 👌
:-)
Tesekkur ederim Steven , ellerine saglik , guzel bir calisma olmus
Rica ederim!
@@StevenBTuner je vais acheter la meme machine ultrason que toi est-ce une 40w ou 100w ? Faut il acheter son liquide aussi ? Enfin dois je reprogrammer mes injecteurs ? Merci d'avance
Great Video! I have a X5 2009 M57 engine. Do you have links for the tools ?
Hi, there are Amazon links in the description.
yes thank you. seems though allot of the products are out of stock. Do you have a link for your video on injector coding ? did you have to code after the cleaning ?
Hi, cleaning the injectors should bring them back closer to their original calibration values. It seems it is time for me to go through and correct those Amazon links!
Fantastisk video
Glad it helped you out!
Great Video! Very helpful
Glad you liked it!
Hi great video would this this solve excess leak off thanks
Hi, if you have excess leak off then a top end rebuild is needed.
@StevenBTuner lol you pulling my leg ..... a top end rebuild for excess leak off on the return lines . Or do you mean top of the injectors need building up with new parts pilot valve ect thanks for reply
When I did a leak of test from cold start for 2 minutes I got a volume of
85ml cylinder 1
73ml cylinder 2
62ml cylinder 3
64 ml cylinder 4
The car was just at idle the whole time .
Car starts fine and runs fine I just expected to see around 20/30 ml in each cup relatively evenly.
Car is a Corsa d 1.3cdti 2012 engine A13DTC . Thanks you if you can provide insight
Good work 👍
Thank you so much, this video is great. I'm thinking of cleaning my BMW injectors myself thanks to you.
I have one question tho, my 330D E46 has around 335 000 km and I know one of my injector is not great. I got the DDE warning sometime and I fix it with injector cleaning stuff poured in the fuel tank and it's working for some time but I feel that my engine isn't happy at low RPM.
So my question is, do I have to test out the injectors if I plan to clean them all ? I don't have a lot of money otherwise I would buy new ones but I figured that the all cleaning kit (Injector removal kit + the ultrasonic cleaner) would be way way cheaper (around 120 euro). Do you think it's a good idea ?
Thanks
also, can I buy the small 3L ultrasonic cleaner ? or do I need a bigger one ?
or I can use my pressure washer
Hi, thanks for watching! The leak-off test is mainly to test the top end of the injectors and the ultrasonic/pressure cleaning is to sort out the nozzle end. If you have over 100,000kms on the car then there is a good chance that there are one or more nozzle holes that are blocked and if your injectors have never been removed in 335,000kms then there are going to be lots of blocked holes. My thinking is that if there is a failure in the leak off test then there is no point doing any cleaning as the best course of action is to send the whole lot off for professional rebuilding or replacement. A small ultrasonic cleaner is great, as injector parts aren't very big.
Very useful video. If you can't avoid removing the top off the injector in order to pull it out, how do you calibrate it? I had to do it and my engine doesn't idle nicely now.
Hi, getting the calibration numbers is something that needs specialist equipment, so is not a DIY job unfortunately.
Just finished my first DIY cleaning of fuel injectors for a Volvo S60 2.4d. Result? The leek back test cam out with I:1, I:2, I3 having the same level of fuel in the return pipe, I:4 and I:5 are ~35% lower than the previous three injectors. I also have white smoke comming out of the exhaust and the engine doenst run smothly on idling, there is also a lot of shaking in the car and engine itself. Would you recommend on going back and re-cleaning them using a ultrasonic cleaner?
I should also add I only managed to clean injectors 2 and 5. I wasn't able to unscrew the other three..
Note: The reason I was cleaning them was because the cam cover gasket was leaking and I had to take them out either way. Noticed a lot of soot in the ports so I went with the flow and cleaned them together with the EGR etc.
Thanks in advance! :)
Hi, having different levels in the leak-off test is a strong indication that things aren't too good with the injectors. The car likes having the injectors closely matched, so it is always going to be best to clean them all the same amount. Also, double check all electrical connections to make sure all injectoers are firing.
Hi. Fantastic video 😊 Do you have a video on dismantling the top? I had to take the top off to loosen a stuck injector. No i dont get fuel out of HP pump. I am thinking this injector is not correct, so the system does not get pressurized.
Not yet! All the best in getting to the bottom of the issue!