I only had that thin zip tie, but a slightly thicker zip tie will work better and you can simply push every tab, with one filed edge of course to go underneath the plastic tabs. I learned my lesson and I am not a "cowboy" anymore ;-)
Hello! I just wanted to thank you for all these videos on 1.6 hdi maintenence I'm soon to inherit a volvo c30 1.6d for my first car with the same engine and your channel is helping me get ready to take the best possible care of my car. I really apreciate the videos
I've been maintaining my own cars for 40+ years. I've owned a 1.6hdi Citroën for 8 years. This channel is my main reference for engine work. You're off to a head start knowing about this channel before you've even got the car. Well done. My advice, for this engine, is to keep checking for diesel injector leaks every couple of months. Never let a leak go undetected for too long or it will contaminate you engine oil, leading to turbo bearing failure. (Been there, done that 3 years ago). It's not a deal breaker, just keep an eye on it to avoid more work than is necessary.
Hi, Right now I have a volvo c30 with the same engine. What I am experiencing now is blowback from the valve. Dont know if its diesel or oil, or both. But its getting sucked in by the turbo and its slowly corroding my intake hoses (already changed once). Do you think its the membrane or other underying issues? Thinking of opening it and taking a look Hope you see this, Thanks in advance! PS: Have changed oil 2 times, during that I did an engine flush and also injector cleaning solution through the fuel as just a temporary fix.
Yes, most likely a torn membrane, but could also be something else, pison blow-by or something else. Definitely open it and see if the membrane is intact and in any case replace it to be certain. Most of the membrane kits come with a sping and membrane. If I were you if the spring is intact, I would not replace it as it is supposed to be calibrated.
@@Brian-rs2lt Have you seen if there is excessive crankcase pressure? A bit subjective, but while the engine is running (idle), with opened oil filler cap, see if the blow-by pressure, or the force of the gasses coming out is quite a lot or kind of normal. Be careful not to scald yourself. Normally an A4 piece of paper should do with that, should be lifted a little bit, but not too much. As I said, it is a bit subjective.
@@moremolecules Hi, so I did the test. Warm engine and I dont think it's looking good. At idle, its basically like placing the paper at the exhaust or worse. Heavy blowing and spitting oil everywhere. So im assuming its internal problem.
Personally I have not heard of the P2002, but it seem that it is related to low DPF pressure. It seems that the DPF hoses perish and one needs to replace them. I cannot advise on how it can be done, but quite a few forum pictures around the web, seems fairly easy to do. Good luck. My car does not have a DPF, so difficult to tell how to do it.
شكراً على هذه المعلومة القيمة . لدي سؤال هل سبب خروج الزيت من فتحة التي بجنب الغطاء هذا يعود إلي إنسداد المحفز (catalyseur). تحياتي لك من الجزائر. Thanks for this valuable information. I have a question, is the reason for the oil coming out of the hole in the side of the cover? This is due to the catalysteur being clogged. Greetings to you from Algeria.
Difficult to test the PCV valve. As long as the spring and the rubber membranes are intact it should work. It is a very simple PCV system in the 1.6HDi, the spring pushes the membrane opened, when the turbo kicks in and sucks air from the crankcase, the rubber membrane closes. That's that, it is not very sophisticated.
Thank you. Is there any way to test if the PCV valve is working correctly before you open it, as shown or can you test it after you have opened it. Do owners normally order the full plastic housing unit, including the Oil filler cap and PCV valve as a full replacement?
The way it is designed there is no way to test it before opening unfortunately. I normally order the cap + the membrane and spring (links in the description of video). It is just safer in case you break some of the plastic pins. Previously I bought the whole thing, but recently there have been ebay sellers that sell just the cap and membrane. It is cheaper and less hassle than replacing and sealing the whole crankcase cover.
hi! ı just wonder why you removed oil catch can in your car. I have followed you about 1 year and whole videos are very useful , thanks a lot .I decided to add oil catch can my car .(which peugeot 307 1.6hdi) but when ı saw your new video with no oil cacht can, a little bit confused about catch can installation, am ı on correct path or not about setup catchcan :)
Very simple reason. Every year I have to do an annual inspection for roadworthiness of my car and they do not like any modification of the car. In addition, this is a modification to the emissions and they will fail my car. So every year I remove it, fit the standard stuff so to pass and then it takes some time to put it on. I do film a few videos in between, hence I do not have the oil catch can. Sometimes, I remove it in order to film a particular video where it is important to show the original setup.
Yeah, first time I tried with screwdrivers and ended up breaking all of them. With the zip tie it seemed to work without a problem, but I suspect they can still be broken. I think the trick is to have the engine really hot and do it straight away, plastic is more pliable and less prone to breakage.
excellent video, I managed to open de pcv cap and bought 2 from aliexpress, but the quality its very low, I dont thik its doing its job, its a red rubber, and all the rocker cover is very expensive.
Good evening. Instead of just changing the valve, I replaced the entire valved top. With the new part, the car smokes excessively. A lot of pressure builds up inside the engine and as soon as I open the oil cap, it expands. I put the old part back in and after a while it stopped. With the new part, it is difficult to suck in the air, with the old one, there is no resistance. (Where the part is connected to the turbo intake pipe) what is normal??? To have suction resistance or not??? As far as I know it should be open at idle and close when the engine revs up. Do I know something wrong??
If it is smoking with the new valve top, then something with the spring/rubber membrane that is integral to the valve cover is not right. Probably too tight, you may want to extend the spring a little bit. Difficult to say how little. Say 1-2mm and see if that helps. There is simply excessive crankcase pressure and nowhere to go.
@@moremolecules Good morning, thanks for the reply. That's what I thought too. The company I bought it from will send me a new one. I'll put the new one in and see. Is there a surefire way to test it before I put it up?? How exactly does the valve work?? As far as I know at idle it is almost open and as soon as it starts revving the engine closes a bit so that the turbo does not suck from the engine. Do I know something wrong??
@@EfthimiouTheodoro I do not think there is a way to test the new membrane/spring combination. Only thing you can probably do is compare the strength and size of the two springs. You are correct that it keeps it open and when the turbo starts sucking air it closes slightly and on full blast it completely closes, although there is still a bit of opening otherwise you would get a lot of pressure in the engine.
Hi man ! I’m from Italy. I want to ask you if this PVC valve is the reason why my Peugeot 307( with the same engine) smoke when the cold engine starts. A little bit of irregular revs and then after 5 minutes nothing… thank you for your answer and for your videos ! 🥰
I cannot say for certain, but it could be. Mine does the same and I have not yet found the reason. I will try some other things in the next month or so and will post the results. It is to do with the cold startup smoke. Depends on what the smoke is of course and the temperature of the weather.
@@moremolecules Did cleaning out the inlet tract and intercooler not fix the smoke issue? I need to get around to fitting the clone oil catch can soon. Did you do a video of the parts you used to plumb yours in, I could find it if you have done one?
@@DevinderAthwal306 Yes fixed for a short while and then started smoking at cold startup again. Yes, I have two videos with detailed description and the parts how to fit an oil catch can: ua-cam.com/video/QdxyAHP1DVM/v-deo.html That is the new design and I have a video for the slightly older design. All the components and measurements are in there. I have a few videos about the oil catch can, on my main channel page under oil catch cans.
I just got a plastic milk carton and cut some thin strips. I then pulled back the bottom part of the clip slightly and pushed the plastic strip down from the top on each tab - came off easily. I am still wanting to do the timing belt on my 2012 Citroen C3 Picasso 1.6HDi so an 11 year old timing belt with 70,000 miles. It just scares me a little bit and only having the one car if I get half way through and then find I need a part/tool I don't have then I am stuck with no car to go and buy it. I have to do it this summer though.
pass string through a piece of plastic tube with length equal to the width of a clip. Then pass ends of the string behind each corresponding sides of a clip, exiting outwards at center, accordigly. Pulling equally on both ends will pull tube upwards under the clip,, forcing it to open without damage. Then tying a knot/bow on the string, will keep the tube in place. Repeat on all remaining clips. I have not performed this method. But however, as i am a genius, i know it will work perfectly. trust ?
I only had that thin zip tie, but a slightly thicker zip tie will work better and you can simply push every tab, with one filed edge of course to go underneath the plastic tabs. I learned my lesson and I am not a "cowboy" anymore ;-)
Hello! I just wanted to thank you for all these videos on 1.6 hdi maintenence I'm soon to inherit a volvo c30 1.6d for my first car with the same engine and your channel is helping me get ready to take the best possible care of my car. I really apreciate the videos
Decent car the c30, hope it serves you well 🙂
I've been maintaining my own cars for 40+ years. I've owned a 1.6hdi Citroën for 8 years. This channel is my main reference for engine work. You're off to a head start knowing about this channel before you've even got the car. Well done.
My advice, for this engine, is to keep checking for diesel injector leaks every couple of months. Never let a leak go undetected for too long or it will contaminate you engine oil, leading to turbo bearing failure. (Been there, done that 3 years ago). It's not a deal breaker, just keep an eye on it to avoid more work than is necessary.
I just used boiled linseed oil on my plastics outside and inside it’s shining lovely
Love it.
Such a great idea. Thank you for sharing.
A cotton swab under each tab will work. You can use the cotton swab ends to lift the cap. Works really well.
Good suggestion!
Genius! Thank you for sharing! Very Helpful!
Hi, Right now I have a volvo c30 with the same engine. What I am experiencing now is blowback from the valve. Dont know if its diesel or oil, or both. But its getting sucked in by the turbo and its slowly corroding my intake hoses (already changed once). Do you think its the membrane or other underying issues? Thinking of opening it and taking a look
Hope you see this, Thanks in advance!
PS: Have changed oil 2 times, during that I did an engine flush and also injector cleaning solution through the fuel as just a temporary fix.
Yes, most likely a torn membrane, but could also be something else, pison blow-by or something else. Definitely open it and see if the membrane is intact and in any case replace it to be certain. Most of the membrane kits come with a sping and membrane. If I were you if the spring is intact, I would not replace it as it is supposed to be calibrated.
@@moremolecules Alright, I see. Will try and do that. Thank you for your time and advice!
Have a goodnight!
@@Brian-rs2lt Have you seen if there is excessive crankcase pressure? A bit subjective, but while the engine is running (idle), with opened oil filler cap, see if the blow-by pressure, or the force of the gasses coming out is quite a lot or kind of normal. Be careful not to scald yourself. Normally an A4 piece of paper should do with that, should be lifted a little bit, but not too much. As I said, it is a bit subjective.
@@moremolecules Hi, so I did the test. Warm engine and I dont think it's looking good. At idle, its basically like placing the paper at the exhaust or worse. Heavy blowing and spitting oil everywhere.
So im assuming its internal problem.
Great tip! It worked, also do you know what could cause a P2002 code on a ford focus 1.6tdci 109ps from 2009?
Personally I have not heard of the P2002, but it seem that it is related to low DPF pressure. It seems that the DPF hoses perish and one needs to replace them. I cannot advise on how it can be done, but quite a few forum pictures around the web, seems fairly easy to do. Good luck. My car does not have a DPF, so difficult to tell how to do it.
@@moremolecules Thank you!
شكراً على هذه المعلومة القيمة .
لدي سؤال هل سبب خروج الزيت من فتحة التي بجنب الغطاء هذا يعود إلي إنسداد المحفز (catalyseur).
تحياتي لك من الجزائر.
Thanks for this valuable information.
I have a question, is the reason for the oil coming out of the hole in the side of the cover? This is due to the catalysteur being clogged. Greetings to you from Algeria.
Hi there Can you tell how to test the PCV valve in this type of car?
Difficult to test the PCV valve. As long as the spring and the rubber membranes are intact it should work. It is a very simple PCV system in the 1.6HDi, the spring pushes the membrane opened, when the turbo kicks in and sucks air from the crankcase, the rubber membrane closes. That's that, it is not very sophisticated.
@@moremolecules Thank you
Many thanks.
Bravo , a good life Hack
Great job, thanks a lot - Zibi from Poland C4GrandPicasso
Thank you. Is there any way to test if the PCV valve is working correctly before you open it, as shown or can you test it after you have opened it. Do owners normally order the full plastic housing unit, including the Oil filler cap and PCV valve as a full replacement?
The way it is designed there is no way to test it before opening unfortunately. I normally order the cap + the membrane and spring (links in the description of video). It is just safer in case you break some of the plastic pins.
Previously I bought the whole thing, but recently there have been ebay sellers that sell just the cap and membrane. It is cheaper and less hassle than replacing and sealing the whole crankcase cover.
türkiyeden selamlar iyi ki varsın..
hi! ı just wonder why you removed oil catch can in your car. I have followed you about 1 year and whole videos are very useful , thanks a lot .I decided to add oil catch can my car .(which peugeot 307 1.6hdi) but when ı saw your new video with no oil cacht can, a little bit confused about catch can installation, am ı on correct path or not about setup catchcan :)
Very simple reason. Every year I have to do an annual inspection for roadworthiness of my car and they do not like any modification of the car. In addition, this is a modification to the emissions and they will fail my car. So every year I remove it, fit the standard stuff so to pass and then it takes some time to put it on. I do film a few videos in between, hence I do not have the oil catch can. Sometimes, I remove it in order to film a particular video where it is important to show the original setup.
I tried with a ziptie, maybe mine was too thin, but I ended up breaking all the tabs anyway :) Used the new cap that came with the membrane.
Yeah, first time I tried with screwdrivers and ended up breaking all of them. With the zip tie it seemed to work without a problem, but I suspect they can still be broken. I think the trick is to have the engine really hot and do it straight away, plastic is more pliable and less prone to breakage.
Exactly if you get a cap with it then might as well snap it off?
excellent video, I managed to open de pcv cap and bought 2 from aliexpress, but the quality its very low, I dont thik its doing its job, its a red rubber, and all the rocker cover is very expensive.
Whenever I bought these rubber and the cap, they have always been a good quality, but you never know what comes from aliexpress.
Good evening. Instead of just changing the valve, I replaced the entire valved top. With the new part, the car smokes excessively. A lot of pressure builds up inside the engine and as soon as I open the oil cap, it expands. I put the old part back in and after a while it stopped. With the new part, it is difficult to suck in the air, with the old one, there is no resistance. (Where the part is connected to the turbo intake pipe) what is normal??? To have suction resistance or not??? As far as I know it should be open at idle and close when the engine revs up. Do I know something wrong??
If it is smoking with the new valve top, then something with the spring/rubber membrane that is integral to the valve cover is not right. Probably too tight, you may want to extend the spring a little bit. Difficult to say how little. Say 1-2mm and see if that helps. There is simply excessive crankcase pressure and nowhere to go.
@@moremolecules Good morning, thanks for the reply. That's what I thought too. The company I bought it from will send me a new one. I'll put the new one in and see. Is there a surefire way to test it before I put it up?? How exactly does the valve work?? As far as I know at idle it is almost open and as soon as it starts revving the engine closes a bit so that the turbo does not suck from the engine. Do I know something wrong??
@@EfthimiouTheodoro I do not think there is a way to test the new membrane/spring combination. Only thing you can probably do is compare the strength and size of the two springs.
You are correct that it keeps it open and when the turbo starts sucking air it closes slightly and on full blast it completely closes, although there is still a bit of opening otherwise you would get a lot of pressure in the engine.
Hi man ! I’m from Italy. I want to ask you if this PVC valve is the reason why my Peugeot 307( with the same engine) smoke when the cold engine starts. A little bit of irregular revs and then after 5 minutes nothing… thank you for your answer and for your videos ! 🥰
I cannot say for certain, but it could be. Mine does the same and I have not yet found the reason. I will try some other things in the next month or so and will post the results. It is to do with the cold startup smoke. Depends on what the smoke is of course and the temperature of the weather.
@@moremolecules Did cleaning out the inlet tract and intercooler not fix the smoke issue?
I need to get around to fitting the clone oil catch can soon. Did you do a video of the parts you used to plumb yours in, I could find it if you have done one?
@@DevinderAthwal306 Yes fixed for a short while and then started smoking at cold startup again. Yes, I have two videos with detailed description and the parts how to fit an oil catch can: ua-cam.com/video/QdxyAHP1DVM/v-deo.html
That is the new design and I have a video for the slightly older design. All the components and measurements are in there. I have a few videos about the oil catch can, on my main channel page under oil catch cans.
@@moremolecules Awesome, thank you. I must have missed that one.
Super!!!!
I just got a plastic milk carton and cut some thin strips. I then pulled back the bottom part of the clip slightly and pushed the plastic strip down from the top on each tab - came off easily.
I am still wanting to do the timing belt on my 2012 Citroen C3 Picasso 1.6HDi so an 11 year old timing belt with 70,000 miles. It just scares me a little bit and only having the one car if I get half way through and then find I need a part/tool I don't have then I am stuck with no car to go and buy it. I have to do it this summer though.
get an old gezzer to lend u his bus-pass. Wear a mask and bend forward at the waist. HAHA !
thin plastic strips ! Yep ! Nice !
I am usin cable tie for that. Activate cable tie and pull it even and flat. Thats it.
Do you mean, wrap it around with the closed/activated cable tie and do it that way, instead of like me? Yeah, probably it would work better.
@@moremolecules Yes, I mean that. My bad english 😂😂😂
@@tehnoelektronikloznica7119 No worries at all, mine is not that good either 🙂. I guess that technique would be better than mine.
@@moremolecules thanks a lot!
How about using a guitar string or something. Or maybe just having a hook like in the video is enough.
Could be, I thought that with a zip tie would work best. I think a guitar string will be too thin to wedge in between the plastic tabs.
@@moremolecules There are many gauge strings, i am sure the right one exists.
I used little nails on each latch preventing to go back and voila.
I tried all sort of things and none of them worked. Found that with the thing in the video it works.
Tpo😮
pass string through a piece of plastic tube with length equal to the width of a clip. Then pass ends of the string behind each corresponding sides of a clip, exiting outwards at center, accordigly. Pulling equally on both ends will pull tube upwards under the clip,, forcing it to open without damage. Then tying a knot/bow on the string, will keep the tube in place. Repeat on all remaining clips. I have not performed this method. But however, as i am a genius, i know it will work perfectly. trust ?