I use the Parf guide system with plywood all the time. Once the 3mm holes are drilled I flip it upside down & drill about 1/16” with the 20mm so there is zero blowout. Works like a charm & only take a few more minutes.
Isn't drilling from both sides the standard blow out reduction method for any hole through any material anytime? I've been using it to drill through block walls for decades.
My thoughts for Baltic Birch Plywood. Set depth stop on the 20mm forstner bit to leave 1/16" (1.55mm) bottom, bore 20mm pocket hole. Flip work piece over after all holes are drilled. Use a 5/8" brad point drill bit to enlarge the 3mm hole, then use a 1/4" or 1/2" Spiral flush cut pattern bit to finish up the bottom side holes with a router.
Dude, I'm pretty sure if he just used a backer board instead of the foam, most of it would be eliminated. Just set it on 2 or 3 2x4 scraps and use one as a sacrificial backer board. It might not be showroom perfect but it'll be good enough!
I work for a cabinet company here in the states and we exclusively use metric. Before I started working there I had never used it in my life. It's much easier to measure with accuracy, and the math is much easier. Now when I'm working on projects in my home shop I mostly use metric. I think imperial is much better in normal construction like framing etc, but for smaller things that need to be more accurate, metric is much easier.
🥲 I love to hear of Americans converting! But to offer my counterpoint; as someone who grew up metric, but from watching so much high quality video content coming from USA, there's much to like about imperial too. If I wanna build a furniture piece that doesn't need to fit into an exact place, I opt for imperial. Simpler numbers that allow me to visualise the end result more easily. 6" x 3" vs 6" x 4" I can imagine better than metric, unless I'm using round numbers. Also, 8by4 vs 2440 mm x 1220 mm for a sheet of plywood. Much less syllables when talking to lumber guys 😂
If material supply is in metric, then there is not problem in using it in construction. Fx we do not have 2 x 4. We have 50 x 100 mm instead. There is really no difference in strength. And our entire building system is based on metric. We would find it silly to use Imperial.
I used the Parf system to build the Ron Paulk Bench and what he recommended was to use the forstner bit (no jig) on the underside to score the plywood and then drill out the holes from the top side using the jig. It works perfectly. Great project.
I love the way you explain things. I’m a 63 year old woodworker. And my daughter, who is a fine carpenter. I tell her when you think you know everything you don’t. You’re never too old or too. Good to listen to somebody else that knows what they’re talking about. Even if you get one tip out of 10 videos, it was worth it. Quick story. I had the same job for almost 40 years with the same company. One day one of the owners walked by me and asked, how are you? I replied with I’m done I quit at 60 years old I started my own remodeling business. Now I did this when most guys are retiring. I did it because of my love of woodwork, and I always promised myself I would have my own business. Thanks for your inspiration, and look forward to watching your videos.
I hope you succeed. After working for others since I was 10, I decided at 50 I'd had enough abuse from terrible employers and trying to start my own woodworking business. As a woman I've had very little support for my endeavour. I have health issues. My biggest stumbling block is people don't believe a woman can do it. I've literally been told I'm too old!
I love the metric measurements !!! GREAT for us in Europe !! The children ( and adults) with dyscalculus must be struggeling a LOT with the imperial system .... And I like your project a lot also !
i have the ujk parf guide and i used it on plywood... i drill the bottom half way first , and then flip it back to the top and finish,. It wont have tear out out that.
welcome to the power of decimal....I live in the UK I couldn't possibly be working with 900 64ths - although we do still measure height weight and distance travelled in imperial.... the world is confusing at times.
When I want to prevent bottom side blowout when using a Forstner bit I simply drill halfway from one side and then turn the board over and drill from the other side. You already have the locator holes drilled completely through on this project.
Really enjoy your videos! Thanks for getting me back in the mindset of actually doing something with all my equipment! CNC,LASER,And etc,etc,etc Get frustrated with the constant what do i build to make any income with all this equipment i bought and tend to walk away and say the heck with it all! But I’ll keep digging and hopefully eventually it will all pay off. Thanks again!
Ive done this with plywood, just have to drill on top or a sacrificial sheet of plywood or MDF. Adds a lot of cost, but completely eliminated the blowout.
Great Vid . . .well designed build, love the storage end draws and under track saw hustler, just questioning leg stability. Not Bashing just suggesting, the track storage is a +++ and is a must in this build, my thoughts would be to use folding metal legs from a venue table for their stability and quick deployment. To make them work you'd need a spacer to elevate them above the stored track when legs were collapsed for transport. Just my thoughts. . . . Stay safe, Stay happy
Thanks for the idea! In my experience folding legs of any kind tend to introduce way more slop and wobble. Hinges have way too much play in them. Fixed legs, like on a table, are more rigid and stable.
I really like the top. Has a torsion box rigidity with great storage options. I’m a big fan of throwing my single ply diy mft on a bora centipede on the jobsite but its a little low and slides around on the multiple points of contact. My future rebuild will be closer to your top with pockets to drop onto the centipede I think. Optionally could use the sawhorses I usually have onsite.
Greta project. Have been considering one, and I like yours. They actually have a tool, that puts a slight chamfer on the holes, and this should take of most of the blowout.
I used the Parf Guide system to make a 4'x8' workbench. Half the table is dead nuts accurate, the other half is a bit off. Obviously user error. One thing though for a big workbench, it takes quite a while to make. I've considered having a template made with 30mm holes 96 on center and also some offset holes. Seems like it'd be much faster to clamp down a template and with a 20mm router bit and 30mm bushing just route hole after hole. The Parf Guide system is nice but a bit finicky.
Watching this again. I’m getting the Parf Guide System this week. Can’t wait to build my workbench. How do you like the Benchdogs fence? I think I want it instead of the UJK one. But I did notice it’s more expensive because of the shipping.
You know your going to replace that top when none of us are looking. Lol I’ve seen and watched enough of your work to know that tear out will keep you up at night.
12:09 It's probably a good bit more work, but having the legs splayed a bit (ideally both front to back and side to side) would make the table way more stable
To prevent blowout 100%, you would have to partially drill the holes on one side and finish them on the other side. Effectively going through the entire process with the drilling jig twice.
I used the parf guide to make a portable work bench from MDF several years ago. It has been good, but yours has some smart advantages! I’m going to re-do mine using some of your ideas. Nice job!
Hi - can you tell us about your dust collection attachment on your table saw? I've never seen a hose laid on the saw like that before. How is it attached? Pros/Cons? Thanks!
Nice work - I may use a little differnt way of measureing an assembley (sice I dont have those nifty sponsors 😊), but a nice bench, witch I can use in my tiny workshop, where everything by the way is metric - no problem in that (werent you guys invited to join a couple of times😅😊)
After I drilled my guide holes I flipped the plywood around and just drilled in the 20mm holes a few mm deep without the guide. then went to the top and drilled through with the guide. Eliminates the blowout. The bit they supply is pretty crappy. They had to send me another one after it chipped after a dozen holes.
Not that I have tried. The Parf Guide is the best option IMO or a CNC. If you already have an MFT top you could use that as your guide to produce more such tops.
Awesome video! Been waiting for you to put a new vid out and this one did not disappoint! Hope you and your family are well and had a Happy Thanksgiving!
I'm conflicted, I love the elegance of a mesuring system that divides perfectly by 4 and 3, but hate the convoluted fractions required for smaller measurements. What we need is duodecimal meter!
1:02 I find I'm using metric more and more. I removed my Imperial-only tape on my table saw and replaced it with a dual Metric/Imperial one just so I didn't need to fiddle with measuring metric cuts.
Hey I got one thing to say well maybe 3 or 4. Man you got to keep family first. They are your happiness and faith. Second we on the web are here and not going anywhere. I can’t do the Patreon cause I’m on a fixed income but I’ll be here to keep hitting the thumbs up button till I don’t have one. Is this 3 or 4 um not sure anyway keep on making videos and teaching is mere mortals a thing or two. Tell the family you have another family on UA-cam and they are welcome to join in on the videos ( truthfully we need to see the better half and kids to see why they put up with you 🤣🤓) if I’ve paid the power bill I’ll be here keeping on making. Your friend TY
Or you can drill out about 2 mm on each hole on the bottom and turn it over and drill out the rest of the holes from the top. Then you will not get the blowouts.
Throw a scrap piece of plywood under it before drilling the holes. Problem meet solution I know you don't want the pocket holes on the outside but is pocket holes with very minimal structural integrity benefiting the build? One of the very few rules of pocket holes is don't screw from the inside out, so I don't understand the reasoning to do them that way
Castle pocket holes are at a much shallower angle than typical drill pocket holes. I think it's 7 degrees vs 15. It's not straight in but it's not far off. The bench is very strong as is.
Next time flip your table top over and use the system to pre-drill the back about 1/4 way through. Then when you work from the front, you won't have any blow out at all.
forstner bit 95% through till just the tip is coming out. Then flip and drill from other side, but for this project... I'd have a whole lot of "who cares"
To prevent blowout on the back of your plywood, first drill part way through with your Forstner bit, flip the sheet over, then drill the rest of the way through from the opposite side.
I started on the underside and just made a scoring cut…you don’t need the parf guide, just locate the centre pin and cut through the surface ply. Flip the top right side up and complete the dog hole drilling.
5:31 The recommendation for no blowout is to use MDF? Yikes! With all those Festools, I thought there would be a better recommendation. How about shallow drilling from the backside first then finish the hole from the top? Cool bench design though.
so you're saying you had to suffer metric for the aprons, while it's only relevant to the doghole spacing, only if you want to match the MFT system and for which you had a jig system anyhow? 🙃 seems legit 😁
Just multiply your inch dimension by 25.4 - Cannot understand why Americans find metric so hard - I was borne in England (Imperial) and moved to South Africa when Metric was launched - no problem. Adding 273 to 285 is easy but adding 2.15/32' to 18.7/8" is a nightmare?
5:36 I used HDF (Valchromat) and still got blowout. If there is a next time I'll buy a sheet of MDF to use as a backer board and sacrifice it to the MFT gods.
To a European it is really funny that you even have to mention using the metric system. We really do not understand why Americans continue to insist on using the Imperial system, when the metric system is so much easier to use.
So hardware/lumber stores in USA don't offer cutting down sheet material? In The Netherlands and Germany - Gamma/Obi/Hornbach/etc all have huge vertical saws that literally only cut down sheets per your specification in both dimensions (height and width since sheet material is placed vertical). And unless you are asking for more than 15-20 cuts per sheet - they also do it for free. Meanwhile even in Eastern Europe/Balkans - you can order sheet material cut, and in case of melamine panels even ABS edge-banded. Well you can do that in the Western Europe too - but at that price point I might as well just hire an actual wood working contractor that also installs it.
Very nice! Thank you for your efforts. I want to point out however that while the voice-over mentioned "6th and 8th holes", I believe you meant to say "8th and 10th". (verified by Pythagoras and also actually counting the holes in the video LOL)
You made me sweat for a minute but it's actually 6 and 8 🤣 the "10" is represented by the diagonal. 6th hole past the stick along the front and the #8 hole along the perpendicular.
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I use the Parf guide system with plywood all the time. Once the 3mm holes are drilled I flip it upside down & drill about 1/16” with the 20mm so there is zero blowout. Works like a charm & only take a few more minutes.
Happy to see this comment -- this was my first thought when I saw the tear out on the back.
Isn't drilling from both sides the standard blow out reduction method for any hole through any material anytime? I've been using it to drill through block walls for decades.
My thoughts for Baltic Birch Plywood. Set depth stop on the 20mm forstner bit to leave 1/16" (1.55mm) bottom, bore 20mm pocket hole. Flip work piece over after all holes are drilled. Use a 5/8" brad point drill bit to enlarge the 3mm hole, then use a 1/4" or 1/2" Spiral flush cut pattern bit to finish up the bottom side holes with a router.
Dude, I'm pretty sure if he just used a backer board instead of the foam, most of it would be eliminated. Just set it on 2 or 3 2x4 scraps and use one as a sacrificial backer board. It might not be showroom perfect but it'll be good enough!
I work for a cabinet company here in the states and we exclusively use metric. Before I started working there I had never used it in my life. It's much easier to measure with accuracy, and the math is much easier. Now when I'm working on projects in my home shop I mostly use metric. I think imperial is much better in normal construction like framing etc, but for smaller things that need to be more accurate, metric is much easier.
Yep most cabinet shops around the world use metric. They build cabinets on the 32mm standard
I just started using metric myself and love it. Much easier and more accurate. The problem is trying to reprogram my 66 year old brain.
Welcome to the world, fellow ‘Murkins
🥲 I love to hear of Americans converting!
But to offer my counterpoint; as someone who grew up metric, but from watching so much high quality video content coming from USA, there's much to like about imperial too.
If I wanna build a furniture piece that doesn't need to fit into an exact place, I opt for imperial. Simpler numbers that allow me to visualise the end result more easily. 6" x 3" vs 6" x 4" I can imagine better than metric, unless I'm using round numbers.
Also, 8by4 vs 2440 mm x 1220 mm for a sheet of plywood. Much less syllables when talking to lumber guys 😂
If material supply is in metric, then there is not problem in using it in construction. Fx we do not have 2 x 4. We have 50 x 100 mm instead. There is really no difference in strength. And our entire building system is based on metric. We would find it silly to use Imperial.
I used the Parf system to build the Ron Paulk Bench and what he recommended was to use the forstner bit (no jig) on the underside to score the plywood and then drill out the holes from the top side using the jig. It works perfectly. Great project.
I read that when I was researching afterward. I will remember that for next time!
yeah, scoring the underside seems like no brainer after the fact... also - tape? on the underside? really? 😅
I love the way you explain things. I’m a 63 year old woodworker. And my daughter, who is a fine carpenter. I tell her when you think you know everything you don’t. You’re never too old or too. Good to listen to somebody else that knows what they’re talking about. Even if you get one tip out of 10 videos, it was worth it. Quick story. I had the same job for almost 40 years with the same company. One day one of the owners walked by me and asked, how are you? I replied with I’m done I quit at 60 years old I started my own remodeling business. Now I did this when most guys are retiring. I did it because of my love of woodwork, and I always promised myself I would have my own business. Thanks for your inspiration, and look forward to watching your videos.
Interesting, what made you choose that moment or was it more the opposite, you stopped choosing to be there?
@@stankolodin5586 …The last part of my life is for my passion.
You quit because they asked you how you were? Or was that a typo and you really meant "Who are you?"
I hope you succeed. After working for others since I was 10, I decided at 50 I'd had enough abuse from terrible employers and trying to start my own woodworking business. As a woman I've had very little support for my endeavour. I have health issues. My biggest stumbling block is people don't believe a woman can do it. I've literally been told I'm too old!
Greetings from the USA. I really like the design. I'm a cabinet maker here in the USA. You did a great job. Well done.
I love the metric measurements !!! GREAT for us in Europe !! The children ( and adults) with dyscalculus must be struggeling a LOT with the imperial system .... And I like your project a lot also !
The Woodpeckers system uses a router bushing and bit. No blowout at all. Then use the PARF reamer/chamfer drill bit to clean up the edges. Perfect.
i have the ujk parf guide and i used it on plywood... i drill the bottom half way first , and then flip it back to the top and finish,. It wont have tear out out that.
When I retired I committed myself to use the metric system, it took me a few months but I’ll admit I find it more accurate to use and easier.
Awesome!
welcome to the power of decimal....I live in the UK I couldn't possibly be working with 900 64ths - although we do still measure height weight and distance travelled in imperial.... the world is confusing at times.
When I want to prevent bottom side blowout when using a Forstner bit I simply drill halfway from one side and then turn the board over and drill from the other side. You already have the locator holes drilled completely through on this project.
Really enjoy your videos!
Thanks for getting me back in the mindset of actually doing something with all my equipment!
CNC,LASER,And etc,etc,etc
Get frustrated with the constant what do i build to make any income with all this equipment i bought and tend to walk away and say the heck with it all!
But I’ll keep digging and hopefully eventually it will all pay off.
Thanks again!
I admire your courage for using metrics bro. Welcome to the rest of the world.
Ive done this with plywood, just have to drill on top or a sacrificial sheet of plywood or MDF. Adds a lot of cost, but completely eliminated the blowout.
Scalloped edge (Precision Shear/ Wave Cutter(freud, fisch, etc)) forstner bits help with getting cleaner cuts on plywood and soft woods.
What a great idea Thanks for sharing
Great Vid . . .well designed build, love the storage end draws and under track saw hustler, just questioning leg stability.
Not Bashing just suggesting, the track storage is a +++ and is a must in this build, my thoughts would be to use folding metal legs from a venue table for their stability and quick deployment. To make them work you'd need a spacer to elevate them above the stored track when legs were collapsed for transport. Just my thoughts. . . . Stay safe, Stay happy
Thanks for the idea! In my experience folding legs of any kind tend to introduce way more slop and wobble. Hinges have way too much play in them. Fixed legs, like on a table, are more rigid and stable.
I really like the top. Has a torsion box rigidity with great storage options. I’m a big fan of throwing my single ply diy mft on a bora centipede on the jobsite but its a little low and slides around on the multiple points of contact. My future rebuild will be closer to your top with pockets to drop onto the centipede I think. Optionally could use the sawhorses I usually have onsite.
The adhesive in some or many plywoods can dull planer blades quickly.
Greta project. Have been considering one, and I like yours. They actually have a tool, that puts a slight chamfer on the holes, and this should take of most of the blowout.
You can do that chamfer with a router, that's what I've seen other makers use to finish their dog holes.
Beautifully done. Nice work!
man this thing is sweet! love the portability and the onboard storage.
Ya I love it 😄
Nice work, love the fence.
Thank you! I love it as well. Also love the rail square.
Those are some nice looking pocket holes.
I used the Parf Guide system to make a 4'x8' workbench. Half the table is dead nuts accurate, the other half is a bit off. Obviously user error. One thing though for a big workbench, it takes quite a while to make. I've considered having a template made with 30mm holes 96 on center and also some offset holes. Seems like it'd be much faster to clamp down a template and with a 20mm router bit and 30mm bushing just route hole after hole. The Parf Guide system is nice but a bit finicky.
Looks great. How heavy is it?
That was one of the first questions I asked, too. I think, as I am a small woman, I would have to add wheels or some such thing to carry it with me.
Sweet! Love all the onboard storage.
Ya it's super convenient
Great video. What are those dogs that are attached underneath your Festool track, near the end of the video?
Watching this again. I’m getting the Parf Guide System this week. Can’t wait to build my workbench. How do you like the Benchdogs fence? I think I want it instead of the UJK one. But I did notice it’s more expensive because of the shipping.
I love the fence I've had one on my MFT for a few years now. They make a great product.
You know your going to replace that top when none of us are looking. Lol I’ve seen and watched enough of your work to know that tear out will keep you up at night.
🤣🤣🤣 I already cut a replacement top on the CNC! However I will hold myself back and use this top until I wear it out. I just won't look underneath 😭
Beautiful work, really useful portable workbench with great features.
I had planned to point to a video demonstrating the bottom pre-drill method on the underside, but it seems others beat me to it. Tape No bueno.
Yep. Found that out.
I saw this on instagram before seeing it here......great build. Thank you for posting it.
Thanks Rick!
Looks promising. Would love to see a video of it in action in the field. Showing it’s usefulness
Maybe I'll do some content on Instagram showing it when I use it!
12:09 It's probably a good bit more work, but having the legs splayed a bit (ideally both front to back and side to side) would make the table way more stable
yeah, splayed legs is more than my brain wants to deal with on a shop project! 😂
To prevent blowout 100%, you would have to partially drill the holes on one side and finish them on the other side. Effectively going through the entire process with the drilling jig twice.
I used the parf guide to make a portable work bench from MDF several years ago. It has been good, but yours has some smart advantages! I’m going to re-do mine using some of your ideas. Nice job!
👍
Great portable workbench. How will you address replacing the top when needed?
The top is fastened with pocket screws so I just need to cut a new top and pop it on.
Excellent!
Cool bench man!
blow out on the bottom was caused because the depth stop was not set so that the 20mm bit just went through just a small amount good first try though
As usual awesome build ! Thanks again.
It was a fun build and a quick weekend project!
Nice bench. Thanks for sharing. 😊😊😊
Thank you Gary!
Hi - can you tell us about your dust collection attachment on your table saw? I've never seen a hose laid on the saw like that before. How is it attached? Pros/Cons? Thanks!
That's the standard dust collection that comes with SawStop table saws
hi just use a standard/metric tape and tranfer to what your use to?
I do!
You could also put a sacrificial backing board under your nice piece.
Nice work - I may use a little differnt way of measureing an assembley (sice I dont have those nifty sponsors 😊), but a nice bench, witch I can use in my tiny workshop, where everything by the way is metric - no problem in that (werent you guys invited to join a couple of times😅😊)
Out of curiosity, how much does the bench, with all items stored, weigh?
Around 60 lbs which is about the same as an MFT3
I would like to see the workbench "in action"! 😁
Hi, what is the gloss plywood called? Is it veneer, as that’s all I can seem to find here in the uk 😄
After I drilled my guide holes I flipped the plywood around and just drilled in the 20mm holes a few mm deep without the guide. then went to the top and drilled through with the guide. Eliminates the blowout. The bit they supply is pretty crappy. They had to send me another one after it chipped after a dozen holes.
Yep that's a great idea
Love this. Very well thought out. I might make one :)
🙌 I can't wait to use it in the field
hey i was wondering, is there any way to make such precise dog holes without the fancy expensive eqiupment?
Not that I have tried. The Parf Guide is the best option IMO or a CNC. If you already have an MFT top you could use that as your guide to produce more such tops.
Very nice! What is that benchdog fence? That think looks slick
It's sold by Bench dog UK you can use it on any MFT style worktop
very nice 👍, what plywood do you use?
Believe it or not I found BALTIC BIRCH! It was like catching Bigfoot I felt so proud🤣
Awesome video! Been waiting for you to put a new vid out and this one did not disappoint! Hope you and your family are well and had a Happy Thanksgiving!
Thanks, brother!
I'm conflicted, I love the elegance of a mesuring system that divides perfectly by 4 and 3, but hate the convoluted fractions required for smaller measurements. What we need is duodecimal meter!
Nice setup.
I use the centipede 2x4 with an HDF 2x4 with dog holes. The top also folds in half for easy portability
I have a centipede as well that I use for cutting plywood
Any chance you can tell us how much it weighs?!!
You could just put a thin spoil board or a batton of wood under the row of holes you are drilling to prevent the blowout
Too Rad, thanks for the great content.
Drill the top half of the holes and then flip the sheet over?
Very smart design. How much does it weigh with all those tools in it?
I haven't officially weighted it but I'd say 60 lbs
I’ve just signed up on your channel and would love to know where you got the plastic container to your upper right hand side.thanks
If you mean my organizer bins then check out my last video published before this one 👍
Checked in out but there 86 dollars to get them to Germany. But thanks anyway 👍
What's your problem with milimetres ?
But how heavy is it with all the stuff in it? I wanted to see you walk around with it by yourself haha
1:02 I find I'm using metric more and more. I removed my Imperial-only tape on my table saw and replaced it with a dual Metric/Imperial one just so I didn't need to fiddle with measuring metric cuts.
What is the pocket hole station you use at 6:40? Looks awesome
Castle tsm-12. Not cheap.
Geoff Shepard’s offer pretty compelling evidence in his book and podcast.
Awesome , that looks great.. great job , that’s probably better than the cheap plastic ones you buy in stores….
Oh yeah much sturdier and full of features.
Very beatyfull, pro skills.
Thank you! Cheers!
In the first seconds of the video you can see a pink base to cut. What material is?
Foam insulation
Hey I got one thing to say well maybe 3 or 4. Man you got to keep family first. They are your happiness and faith. Second we on the web are here and not going anywhere. I can’t do the Patreon cause I’m on a fixed income but I’ll be here to keep hitting the thumbs up button till I don’t have one. Is this 3 or 4 um not sure anyway keep on making videos and teaching is mere mortals a thing or two. Tell the family you have another family on UA-cam and they are welcome to join in on the videos ( truthfully we need to see the better half and kids to see why they put up with you 🤣🤓) if I’ve paid the power bill I’ll be here keeping on making. Your friend TY
Was this designed in metric measurements or imperial and converted to metric?
It was designed in both metric and imperial separately. The one I built for myself was in metric.
"And what this bench needs is some legs" Man, I had to rewind here because I thought you said something else. 😂
I found that pretty funny at 5:08
How much does it weigh?
Good Stuff
👍
Or you can drill out about 2 mm on each hole on the bottom and turn it over and drill out the rest of the holes from the top. Then you will not get the blowouts.
Franklin TN, the world capital of “stuff made from old barnwood”
We do have a lot of old barns 🤷
Throw a scrap piece of plywood under it before drilling the holes. Problem meet solution
I know you don't want the pocket holes on the outside but is pocket holes with very minimal structural integrity benefiting the build? One of the very few rules of pocket holes is don't screw from the inside out, so I don't understand the reasoning to do them that way
Castle pocket holes are at a much shallower angle than typical drill pocket holes. I think it's 7 degrees vs 15. It's not straight in but it's not far off. The bench is very strong as is.
If the MFT layout is metric, why would it be 96mm? Seems suspiciously like 4” 🤔
its based on the 32mm standard for cabinetry. 96 is just 32 x 3
Next time flip your table top over and use the system to pre-drill the back about 1/4 way through. Then when you work from the front, you won't have any blow out at all.
forstner bit 95% through till just the tip is coming out. Then flip and drill from other side, but for this project... I'd have a whole lot of "who cares"
To prevent blowout on the back of your plywood, first drill part way through with your Forstner bit, flip the sheet over, then drill the rest of the way through from the opposite side.
Yep great tip! Thanks for watching! 🙌
I started on the underside and just made a scoring cut…you don’t need the parf guide, just locate the centre pin and cut through the surface ply. Flip the top right side up and complete the dog hole drilling.
I also had a similar issue and found that clamping another piece of plywood tightly under that piece stops the blowout also
5:31 The recommendation for no blowout is to use MDF? Yikes! With all those Festools, I thought there would be a better recommendation. How about shallow drilling from the backside first then finish the hole from the top? Cool bench design though.
Yep you can do that if you want to double the entire process time. I found that MDF works much better. MFTs are made of MDF anyway so it makes sense.
so you're saying you had to suffer metric for the aprons, while it's only relevant to the doghole spacing, only if you want to match the MFT system and for which you had a jig system anyhow? 🙃 seems legit 😁
When you build in CAD software you can only use one system of measurement at a time.
I find myself reaching for my metric tape measure more and more often.
Welcome to the metric side 🏴
Just multiply your inch dimension by 25.4 - Cannot understand why Americans find metric so hard - I was borne in England (Imperial) and moved to South Africa when Metric was launched - no problem. Adding 273 to 285 is easy but adding 2.15/32' to 18.7/8" is a nightmare?
It doesn't matter when none of your equipment is in metric
5:36 I used HDF (Valchromat) and still got blowout. If there is a next time I'll buy a sheet of MDF to use as a backer board and sacrifice it to the MFT gods.
So what was your cost?
For the workbench? The price of a sheet of plywood plus some threaded inserts and knobs. Didnt add it all up myself.
To a European it is really funny that you even have to mention using the metric system. We really do not understand why Americans continue to insist on using the Imperial system, when the metric system is so much easier to use.
So hardware/lumber stores in USA don't offer cutting down sheet material?
In The Netherlands and Germany - Gamma/Obi/Hornbach/etc all have huge vertical saws that literally only cut down sheets per your specification in both dimensions (height and width since sheet material is placed vertical). And unless you are asking for more than 15-20 cuts per sheet - they also do it for free.
Meanwhile even in Eastern Europe/Balkans - you can order sheet material cut, and in case of melamine panels even ABS edge-banded. Well you can do that in the Western Europe too - but at that price point I might as well just hire an actual wood working contractor that also installs it.
Nice build. Needs wheels. I mean how heavy is it, 60 to 80lbs
Adding a set of wheels would be sweet! Ya it was a little over 60 lbs.
Neat.
What is the total weight of your portable workbench?
US converts to the metric system inch by inch
Very nice! Thank you for your efforts.
I want to point out however that while the voice-over mentioned "6th and 8th holes", I believe you meant to say "8th and 10th". (verified by Pythagoras and also actually counting the holes in the video LOL)
You made me sweat for a minute but it's actually 6 and 8 🤣 the "10" is represented by the diagonal. 6th hole past the stick along the front and the #8 hole along the perpendicular.
metric is so much easier, everything just revolves around divisions of 10.