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Helpful comment, I hope - For hogging out those mortises for the dowel, you should pilot hole all the way through with a small bit (3/16 or less), then pre drill out the first 1/4 inch or so from both sides with your final bit size using the small drill hole as a reference. Then drill out the center, removing the middle last, rather than one side that blows out as the bit shoots through the last layers of plywood and destroys the veneer.
I'd like to add "*Modern woodworking". Old styles of joinery and fine carving etc. used to make for some really great organic form furniture, but now everything I see online is perfectly square, made using 20 different machines and has unnecessary biscuit joins to make up for a woodworker that doesn't know how to properly join angles together.
My garage came with the common “used to be the kitchen cabinets” and I hate them. I thought this was a clever project and in the conclusion it dawned on me that I could just make insert for my existing cabinets. It is “shop” furniture after all. Thank you for the inspiration!
I have the same thing (but it was my fault they ended up in the garage). Such a useless consumption of good space - they're just full of long-forgotten or seldom used things. So I'm going to do the same thing you are. (It is a good idea and certainly less work.) Just gonna build the drawerbinettes, take off the doors' hinges, and use them as the face plates. Think it should be possible to build them in place without having to take the cabinettes down at all. (Good luck on your project!)
Same but I'm making inserts of this type for some of my kitchen cabinets as well. No point in building from scratch when existing boxes still do the job.
I literally got a concussion last week, because I stored some 12" cast-iron C- clamps on a rack about 2 feet above my eye level, & they fell down on my head. I now have to do occupational therapy, & have a 4-6 wk recovery time. Im just sharing this so other woodworkers wont do the same stupid thing I did.
yikes. so lesson is no heavy stuff above your head. at least without some modification to preventing it from toppling out of there... but "rack" vs cabinet sounds different
@@TreggLiebler😂😂😂 same, I should probably learn from others mistakes but when I'm doing them I just can't seem to remember them. Still, the warning is nice because not everyone is the same as I am.
Don’t feel so bad. I use a wheelchair and a frozen chicken fell from the freezer. Giving a concussion and other issues. Explain that one without a lifetime of teasing!
Storing full 4x8 sheets of plywood on the short edge so they’re up high is also something I won’t ever do again. I moved a small item that was next to the thing the plywood was leaning against. That was enough to tip the whole thing. Knocked over a cart with my Ridgid sander and sent that flying. All good after resetting the gravity switch inside it. And ordering the rear dust collection plastic piece. Even against a wall I hate storing 4x8 plywood up the long way.
OMG. I came for the drawbinets but stayed for the set up and the tips. I am a beginner DIY. But I believe in myself. And have purchased some decent tools over the years. And now I’m in a new house with an attached garage plus. So I’m getting ready to start my setup. And your awesomeness point is valid so I won’t be getting in over my head. But I’ll be starting with my closet transformation and then moving on to a bench and my setup. And then I’m getting on two boxes after that to rip off a floating entertainment centre for my bedroom!! You have a viewer and subscriber. It was Jan 12 yesterday 🙄The algorithm failed us both 😜 loving all the rest
100% agree with you on this. Not only do I build my wood shop storage like this…I also built my kitchen storage like this AND my firewood storage the same. My neighbor thought I was nuts regarding the firewood storage until he saw it in action.
As a carpenter. Nice job BUT. I RESPECTFULLY suggest on your dowels for tape rolls . You have them back to front. Rolls hang over each other. I say set dowels rods left to right , ( as you look into the box) two bottom two top. The tape rolls can sit on the dials like dishes on a rack. You can then double the number of rolls and never have to move one to get to another.
It took me two readings (and I've even built a similar thing) but once I pictured what you were describing, I LOVE it. This is why we need a drawing feature in the UA-cam comments section (joking not joking).
@@MRSketch09 In @adgieem1's comment he has the tape rolls resting on a pair of dowels running side to side rather than being skewered by them running front to back.
Was going to say this, I have a small one for spices, a bigger one for flower, rice, pasta etc and then a middle one for cooking pots and pans in the kitchen...
Yeah, I work at a cabinet hardware distributor and there are plenty of inserts for this application. Not sure how they would compare on price vs the materials used here, plus the advantage of building to the exact space. If you have the ability and means I'd say it's a worthwhile project. Plus these are built like a brick s#!thouse.
To be honest, I skipped to the end because I do not know wood working. But as a 4'9 tiny woman, I love this idea, I'll keep it in mind for my kitchen remodel.
So many great, common sense tips about cutting and fabrication that I have used for years for most all functional projects. The one tip I would give you is to rip a 45 degree on the rear streatcher/nailer on the bottom as a simple French Cleat. Then rip another board as the mounting cleat for later when you want to hang the cabinet. That way you can hang them by yourself as the cleat will hold the cabinet so you can screw the cabinet to the wall. No more having to catch a cabinet to the face.
There was a moment there, where I swear you said "Cuddle the parts prior to assembly." I guess this explains why my projects have been so problematic lately, I'm just not giving enough attention to the material's needs!
One con is that now I need these over my washer and dryer because I always have to work my way through all the cans and supplies to see what’s in there. I like the idea.
Idea for the far end ones, in case someone hasn’t mentioned this. You could install small hooks on either side of the drawbinet and stretch a thin bungee cord across the gap. Would keep things from falling on you but would be easy to get tall things in and out.
I love you style. Instructive without being condescending. You missed your calling as a shop teacher. I am building my forever home with a 90 yo woman in mind (because someday there will be one) and in the kitchen, I only want drawers on the bottom for easy access. Now you have me rethinking the top cabinets too. 🤔
I watched you build your drawerbinets today. It was so much fun. I have no experience in building cabinets but o grew up watching family members do it. I loved your laid back approach to it all which was very practical and understandable, not to mention hilarious at times. I will follow your projects
10 years ago I built a couple "drawer-binettes" for my bathroom. I was struggling with what to do with an extra 9 inches of space between the end of my 5 foot bathtub, and the 5 ft. 9 in. opening I was putting it in, as my bathroom is not the standard 5 foot width. I first planned to build a ledge at the far end of the tub but then I thought of the vertical drawer to provide ample storage of toiletries and other bath items. My "drawer-binette" goes floor to ceiling. It is divided into two drawers that glide on roller drawer glides, one at the top and one on the bottom of each. I can even access them while in the shower! Ten years on and I still marvel at their effective use of space.
There are a lot of takeaways here John. And I appreciate that even though you said it's not a "how to" video on building drawerbinets, you proceeded to do an entire video on how to build drawerbinets. 🎉 Yay!
Did something similar a few years back, but rather than have a plain flat front panel and needing to pull open the "drawerbinet" for everything, I have an open-faced set of 4" deep shelving facing the front to hold the more commonly accessed things I use, while less commonly used items are kept in side facing enclosures behind the front shelves. I made the assembly 96" wide with four slide outs. While you made short work of mounting the drawer slides I struggled with them no end, so thank you for the slide mounting descriptive!!
I think you're first woodworking guy on internet that actually seems to look at the tablesaw and actively avoid coming close to it, many people seem to rush and just do quite unsafe things but as they havent had an accident yet they dont realise it
I kept planning to build upper cabinets for my shop storage, and even considered a pull-out design like your drawerbinets. I bought a DVD video showcasing a similar design back in the days before UA-cam became ubiquitous. Anyway, that project was always put off as I faced higher priority projects. Meanwhile, I had a hodgepodge of shelves with stuff jammed on them. Things were disorganized, hard to locate, prone to falling, and covered with dust. As an interim solution, I bought a bunch of plastic lidded bins in three standard sizes. These are the clear (frosty) bins sold in big box stores and I bought them on sale. I also bought a bunch of heavy duty shelf brackets and standards from the same big box store. I replaced my previous rickety shelves with three horizontal rows of these heavy duty shelves, spaced just right to hold the bins. I filled each bin with like items and labeled them with masking tape. What I intended as a quick-and-dirty temporary solution worked way better than any of my more complicated and expensive ideas would have. When I want wood putty, for example, I just pull down the wood putty bin, get what I need and put the bin back. The putty cans and tubes stay together, dust free. The bins and their contents don't inadvertently fall. Things are effortlessly organized, and the organization is easy to maintain. If I buy more putty, for example, it just goes in the same bin. If the bin is full, I just shift putty to a bigger bin or add a second bin. As a bonus, if a liquid like glue or oil drips or spills a bit, the mess is confined to the bin. Easy peasy.
I use bins the same way. I does work great. When dust builds up, it's just on the lids and some sides - easy peasy to vacuum clean once in a while. However, as I got older, I realized that the largest bins would become too heavy ... well, ok, they didn't change weight, I got weaker. LOL. So I built shelf bottoms that are essentially drawers with no sides - a sliding rack which the bins sit on. The sides are just 1x2 oak slats the drawer sliders are attached to. Same with the front and back. (To have something to grab and to keep the bin from potentially sliding backwards... Essentially very shallow drawers. So now I just pull the sliding shelf out, the bin coming along with it, then open the bin lid ... etc. Works great. Now If I could just finish my anti-gravity lifter, life would be really easy peasy. :))
Not bad at all. You did an amazing job describing everything and even showing some mistakes. We all learn from mistakes so that's great to see you not hiding them. When I worked for a custom cabinet shop 20years ago, we went to the wood workers show in Vegas. The shop ended up getting a really nice beam saw and cnc machine. While there, we looked at some of the cool designs people were doing in cabinetry. We saw this and the owners had us build them for the showroom and they absolutely took off with every customer wanting at least 2 or 3 wall cabinet pull outs in the kitchen.
I had very very deep pantry cabinets so I added Reva shelves and made them the same thing you have and I didn't have to build them all. I just used the pullouts that they give you and attach the doors to that
Finally! No nonsense case construction and what I consider proper pocket hole screw use. I worked in a commercial cabinet shop for years and built thousands of cabinets that way. Bravo
They have newer versions of kitchen cabinets where the shelves can be pulled out and drop down for easier access. They address the issue brought up early on about the top shelves being mostly inaccessible and forgotten, though less on the 'forgotten' part since you can still easily forget things are up there
fastcap third hand. issue with french cleats either you have to recess them or your cabinet sticks out by the width of the cleat. Using Fastcap third hand tools make it easy.
There is metal hardware available that allows you to just hook them on. However, it has further advantages- - it mounts on the side panel, meaning the back (if any) can be thin and non structural. -it has vertical screw adjustment, for perfect alignment to the cabinet next to it -it can then be adjusted backwards, to sit tight to the wall- or adjust for depth difference between cabinets (uneven wall). Once you have used them, you will never go back.
Reminded me of pull out bedroom closets we had in a house when I was a teen. The pull out closet was about five feet wide. It included a top and bottom shelf so that nothing was very hidden or lost in the back. It also had closet rods on each side. You could make one side for winter clothes and one for summer wear. I had not thought about those closets in a long time. We were only in that house two or so years. That's the Army life.
Great video! Two comments; 1) I have been thinking about something similar for my shop for quite a while. Your video gave me a great idea. 2) thank you for saying that you drilled pilot holes, not “pre-drill.” That term never made sense to me. I think “wait a minute, you didn’t pre drill, you drilled a hole. I just watched you!”
Pre-drilling refers to drilling a similar sized hole for the fastener. Pilot drilling refers to using a smaller drill bit first before drilling a larger bit. Especially when using hardwoods.
@@UniqueMDF so the difference between drill and pre-drill is the size of the hole in relation to the size of the fastener?? In the days before nail guns we would drill a hole in the hardwood trim for the nails. Usually we would use a nail of the same size. I wonder, were we drilling or pre-drilling??
Nice work. Some UK kitchen companies do units built along these lines. The problems with normal base cabinets ( =wide ) rather than wall cabinets ( =narrower ) is that when you fill them with tins and biscuits etc you just can't see what you have in there. Another good plan is to have storage space on the rear of the door, like the smaller fridges we have in the UK rather than the huge walk-in ones that seem to show up in your part of the world. I got the same Ryobi nailer as you which I find very good to use. Rob.
"Walk-in [fridges]" You must be talking about Texas (where everything is bigger)? I think they store entire butchered steers in theirs, plus some milk, beer, and barbeque sauce...
Many kitchen companies here in Norway also do the pullout units, but usually for narrow base cabinets only. There are some that do full-height pantry pullout solutions, and companies like Häfele make hardware for those - we have one of them (the "Tandem Chef's Pantry") in ours, and while it does "steal" some space, we gain a lot of accessibility.
Made this myself years ago, however, I hung my frames from "barn door tracks" which allowed me to stack everything side-by-side in very compact form. When I need something, I pull the entire frame out from the row of cabinets and open the proper drawer.i
I guess it all depends on what you find yourself building or doing in your shop. I use scraps of plywood ALL the time. They make clamping cauls, sanding blocks, inserts to turn an old low sided filing cabinet into one with higher sides that will hold hanging files, shims, spacers, doll houses, shelves and a million other things!
I have a few cardboard boxes that I throw my small cutoffs into. I use them when i can and when the box gets full I will burn the smallest stuff first in my wood stove. I end up burning most of it but it saves a little material, takes minimal space, provides some heat in the winter and it makes me feel better when I do finally burn it
I like it. It is nice seeing guys do something a little different (especially on UA-cam where so much of the content is similar!) For their shops. I've kept plans, articles and pictures over the years of things like these pull out cabinets, folding cabinets, pull down cabinets that hang on the ceiling. The only limit on shop storage is the one you put on yourself. Making something unique like this is far more satisfying. Great video man, props to you for always being yourself and showing the woodworking world that you don't have to be identical to everyone else to be a good craftsman
You beat me to it, this is a great build and continued to be impressed with the content. But I agree, a French cleat here would make install easier and in my case they can be moved as needed as my tools and space changes over time. Really fantastic, keep up the great videos! @Lincolnstww
Just wanted to quickly add something if making the cut in the cabinet for the lights, make sure that you are avoiding the screws that to me would be the step some people would overlook when making this cut
That is some kind of high level storage right here. Awesome man. I already built my upper cabinets on my workstation like 2-3 years ago, so I won't redo it, and frankly, it's working, but yours are quite nice, and I'm totally sure that the next time I have to build something for storage I'll do that. I think it is also good for lower cabinets because you always end up crouching to reach the back, and don't see it often. When talking to my wife about a freezer, she didn't want to get a horizontal one because items on the bottom always end up lost because you put shit up it. I though that it would be smart to design a freezer with vertical drawers to get access to full size, but you basically just did it horizontally, proving that sliding is far superior to just a box. Nice once !
Had a trash can cabinet in my kitchen like this. In about 2 years, the weight at the end had bent the under-engineered rails enough that it would slowly slide open. Replacing the rails is required buying a whole new kit. Expensive.
I'm with you. I want the storage but I don't like the idea of not being able to reach clear into the cabinet only to find I'm hiding something that I need and have to go buy a new one every time I need that tool. I'm definitely going to look into getting some of these plans.
Using standard rails mounted in the middle instead of using those (rather expensive) bottom-top rails is clever. Solves a conceptual problem of my own that I've had with (a dream of) a boardgame drawbinet. Thanks!
I don't know the first thing about woodworking but my dream cabinet improvement for my kitchen would be a set of inner shelf/racks that hold everything secure within a box/frame and then it all can be pulled forward and down by a handle at the bottom to reach the contents, and then back up and into the cabinet.
I like this style of video a lot! Your other cabinet videos were great, but I like when you strictly speak about each step you're doing, while doing it. If that makes any sense. A great video and deserves a million views. Just don't buy any bot views, lol. If you know, you know.
40 years ago I purchased an oak doctor's apothecary cabinet that was built as 3 sections measuring 3' x 5' that I installed in my log cabin as a pantry under a stairway. Comprised of 36 pull out "drawers" it has performed flawlessly. It came with brackets to hold labels, so I assigned titles for general items like "SOUPS, CANNED VEGETABLES, COFFEE, SUGARS, etc. It's been a wonderful pantry. I don't loose my inventory, and the drawers pull out 100% but safely lock in place when fully extended, just as your upper cabinets do in this video. I can vouch that this style of cabinet is well worth installing! Thank you for your video!
This is great for the same reasons: (1) I stole an idea from K-Mart, which is, the swinging racks on which they displayed posters. I used the concept to have all my layout tools both on display and easy to access. The difference is, my racks are an inch thicker to allow my to screw things into 3/8" dunnage plywood, or to pound nails into the sides to mount try-squares, angle gauges, thickness gauges, calipers, protractors, compasses and so on. (2) I made ALL our lower cabinets into drawers (100-150 # slides) to hold pots, pans, graters, glass storage vessels and so on that could all be accessed without emptying the shelf to get to the things in back. (3) I made pull-outs under the sink to hold cleaning supplies and things.
My last 3 homes I built floor to ceiling sideways sliding drawers to get to both sides. This house had nice Kitchen door cabinets so I have not ripped them out. I buy a few boxes of Chomps a year. They pack well for a motorcycle ride where I need a quick protein snack to balance my Carbs due to diabetics. No added sugar, CHECK. Taco and Jalapeno, sometimes the Turkey too.
Great video and easy to understand how you made the drawer-binates. As someone from UK, I hate to burst your bubble on the invention. Shortly after we moved into our house 30 years ago, we took out an old kitchen unit that had a tall version of the Drawer-binets - almost 8ft tall and 12 inches wide, with 2 small drawers at the bottom, a 5ft Drawer-binet in the middle and a final cubby with a horizontal-opening flap door at the top. I fitted it in my garage where it's given another 30 years of further service. Fitted kitchens in Europe are really quite advanced compared with the US with lots of cunning solutions on how to fit lots of storage into small spaces (we tend to have smaller rooms in UK and Europe). Irregardless of that, it was great to see how you tackled making them and I really like your presentation. Keep it up!! Thanks.
I don’t know if other people relate to how you present your thoughts and processes…. But it totally resonates with me and I felt like you were talking directly to me and I was really picking up what you were putting down!! Excellent work and I love your drawerbinets !!
I love space saving ideas. Anything which you can spread out to remind me whats inside is always a plus - I spend 90% of the time trying to find stuff I vaguely know is in that back corner of storage cabinets and inside stacked boxes somewhere
Would love to see you making a pull-down/drop-down shelf - the ones where, as you pull on the handle, they move out and down. With that type we would hopefully be able to make better use of space that we can't comfortably reach without climbing up on tables and wobbly chairs. It also seems like a fun design and build challenge.
This solution hits close to home. I live in my Grandparents' house and I'm going through their belongings as time goes on. I've found so many duplicate copies of the exact same hardware and tools that I'm sure resulted from Grandpa just not knowing he already had one tucked at the back of a cabinet.
I don't do much (hardly any) woodworking since I live in a small apartment, but I enjoy it when I do. I love your clear, concise instructions, not-too-fancy approach to the process, and your humor is just my style. Well done! Oh, and congratulations on the Nobel Peace Prize.
Very nice, I've seen similar things as pullout pantries before. My favorite cabinet variation is for kitchens though, so years ago my parents were renting an apartment where the counter with the sink in it was stone and sloped into the sink, the cabinets for dish storage were above it not very deep and it had no bottoms and the shelves were all drain racks pegged into the sides of the cabinets. This meant that you could just wash a dish, put it away, and then it would drip down onto the counter and all the water would just roll into the sink.
Absolutely love the drawerbinets. Now it's time to solve that last problem you stated, which was cabinets being to high. If there was a way to pull the drawers out then down....that would solve the issue. Food for thought. Loved the video and idea. Gonna make some of my own in the future.
I’ve stumbled upon your videos and I’ve been binge watching. I really like how you explain things and dumb it down for us dummies. Also you show your mistakes and throw some humor in there too. Excellent work, I have subscribed.
This is exactly what I've pictured in my ideal kitchen. I'd also add a couple drawbinets that go from the floor to the top of the cabinet height that just have a big sheet of pegboard inside.
Great tutorial. Fairly straightforward. And I now know my style of measuring - referential. I happen to be framing a room in the basement today and was explaining to my helper (daughter) that I find it easier and more accurate to place the pieces where it will be installed, draw a good line and cut -,as my friend Tommy Yox always said “leave the line”.
I actually did this in my kitchen. I made the cabinets myself. I was a cabinet maker. And I thought I can't see what's at the back of the cabinet so I made him pull out so you could see everything that was in the cabinet. I think it's a brilliant idea.
29:50 Tip to hang cabinets easier. Before attaching the rear stretchers rip them in half with a 45 degree bevel. Attach the top half to the box with the long edge towards the outside, then attach the bottom half to the wall with the short edge to the wall. Now you can hang your box.
As a method of making upper cabinet storage accessible I think this is a great idea . I like my upper kitchen cabinets go right up to the ceiling, but that makes the upper sections difficult ot access or even see what you have stored up there. This looks like a nice way to make these spaces more practical. I must have another look at your kitchen cabinet videos and see if you applied the idea in that space as well.
When using a forstner bit, if you stop drilling the moment the pilot pokes out the other side, flip the piece over and use the pilot poke hole to center the bit and start drilling from the other side, you’ll avoid the unsightly blow out. If you can’t get to the other side, you can prevent blow out by clamping a sacrificial piece of wood under your intended hole and then keep drilling until you are into the sacrificial piece.
I have never heard of iron on edge banding before. I have been trying to figure out how I can redo my wardrobe and make it look nice without spending hundreds on fancy wood for way too long. I can now actually do that project - thank you! Also, I'm gonna be making drawerbinets in my shed for sure
Have been making cabinets and furniture for a living over fifty years. Excellent video. Well done. Note: I have never, and will never, use pocket screws. speaking only for myself, I cannot stand them. Other than that, you did a first class job. Be safe, enjoy your "drawerbinets". Oh and by the way, I made the mistake of showing the video to my wife. Mistake.
Love the concept. We have a drawerbinet for the trash & recycle bins. It doesn't seem to last very well. But I'm guessing that's because it was quickly put together. So I hope that yours last longer than the 4-6ish months ours did before it didn't go in and out very smoothly. Good thing for warranties.
I did something like this for my mother a few years ago. It was for a dead space under the stairs which was quite deep. She wanted somewhere to store her shoe collection. I basically built basic boxes with shelves like a bookcase) out of plywood without any backing, at reducing heights, and put them on some 2x3 framing timber, used heavy duty slides on the bottom. I didnt need to build any outer boxes since it was under the stairs, but I built a frame using framing timber and screwed that all into the walls and stairs. I made the fronts out of MDF and used a 1/8 roundover and painted them the same colour as the walls. The fronts have the same slope as the stairs to match and fit. I did it all using only a mitre drop saw, circular saw, Drill, impact driver and a trim router.
An idea for you. Your right most drawbinet that is against the wall, if the slides can be mounted top and bottom you could have it swivel to the left giving you access to the side that is otherwise against the wall.
We install alot of inserts like this in cabinets. Mostly lowers, but a few uppers here and there. Ironically, my boss, the owner of a cabinets company, has a small kitchen. His pantry cabinets have multiple roll-outs for this very reason. My only concern with what you've done here is your slide placement. I think you'll have trouble with sagging later on. A second set of accurides at the top would probably help a lot with this. Typically, our rollouts use undermount slide on the bottom and accurides on top for stability. Really like your organization.👌🏻
I had a similar idea maybe 10 years ago, and I know that these vertical storage systems existed before that. I think that there's another way to build these with the extension hardware on the top and bottom, one sheet of plywood in the middle, kind of an I-Beam construction and you can build your shelves, hangers, etc. on either side. I also considered the edge mounting like you did in your build. One exception, I was thinking of something more for under cabinets, or drawer-bin-ettes as you call them, and yes the ends would need to be addressed differently, like pullout drawers. I'm happy to see someone else realize that the depth of cabinets is wasted space and that you can increase accessibility using this method. In the end, I ended up not making them in favor of slide out bins on shelves, but I like your design here, very cool.
Stud finding tip, use a small nail and insert multiple times to find bothEDGES of the stud so you can hit at center on each subsequent at 16”. It’s going to be behind your board/cabinet so don’t worry about holes in the drywall.
One thing I love about your videos is that even if I don't learn anything (which hasn't happened yet) I'll always be entertained by the witty commentary! Keep up the great work & good luck on that Nobel Prize!!!
2/64ths is what I was trained as a tolerance for aviation structures. This means that your guidance on off square is a pretty high standard. I concur that this shouldn’t put you far off in the long run. Just always shoot for perfect so it doesn’t domino down the line.
Wow! I just watched The third or fourth video of yours. I didn't think it was possible. You have even more to be humble about now! Not to mention your delivery is appealing to large corporations and they are clamoring to have space in between your quips, Construction, and complementary Coercion to those who are doubting their ability to do such things.So part of that's a good thing.
Drawerbinets is a fantastic word and I had no idea I was getting a message channeled from you in the future when I did this in my kitchen. Thank past future you! Your innovation has been great!
Iron-on edging can be "firmed down" by pressing down with a wood or plastic wallpaper edging roller. Used just after the iron it helps press down the edging glue into the board. Especially useful if used on chipboard (ugh!) or MDF.
I wanted something close to this in my old house. The washer and dryer had cabinets over them, but they were so big none of the short people in my house could reach them. I thought it'd be neat to pull them out and replace them with slightly narrower cabinets on slides so you could pull the whole unit forward to reach the cabinets, then push it back so you had access to the top of the washer and dryer. Nobody builds for us slightly shorter than average people.
French cleats for cabinets. That way the cleats can be securely attached to wall studs. The cabinets can be securely hung on the french cleats until you get them all into place and attached to each other. Then you can use one or two screws per cabinet through the back of the cabinets and through the french cleats to hold them into place while the french cleats hold their weight across the entire width of the cabinets and wall.
These are great. No Nobel prize, however as many people already do this. Very nice looking design for the most part. Liked how you solved most of the issues. Minor changes- Outer box top and bottoms could be reduced to 1/2 or even 3/8 ply, as they don't carry much if any load. Use a clear sealer on the outer faces so finger prints can be easily cleaned off in the future. Major change - should have 2 sets of sliders on each one. The caseing alone is effetively eating 50% of their capacity if it has denser shelving, and it is very easy to overload these. For example if you store all your manuals in one, or boxes of screws/nails/hardware the slides will have to hold 100-150 lbs of material plus 30-50 lbs of drawer. Most slides at a reno store are only rated for 100 lbs or so. If your really slick you can integrate aluminium bracing for holding the slides which also acts as the "handrail" so you can see the bottom of the shelf. Same concept applies if doing this for a kitchen. Spices are light, but pots/pans or bags of flour and surgar are heavy and should be in drawers with extra rails, or suppor from below.
This is a really cool innovation, Jon~! I've been hemming & hawing on getting my miter station & other cabinets built for some time now. I've resolved the lowers by getting a pair of mobile toolbox/workbenches to add a spanning piece for the chop saw, but for the uppers I think I may tackle what you've thrown down here. I love the functionality~! Thanks for sharing this~!
I designed and built pull out spice racks for the kitchen. It is way better than the shelf design. Just pull out and its stacked 2 high so I fit way more spices in a small space. I have 5 pull outs on the first shelf just for this purpose
Id highly recommend you buy yourself a paint knife for spreading glue. Little tip i picked up from an old guy on site, brushes end up getting ruined and if you use your fingers everything gets covered in glue. A paint knife is perfect for spreading glue and is easily cleaned when the glue is wet or dry. I recommend a No.8 Another tip, when fixing cabinets together put your screw behind the hinge, that way you have a good fixing and the screw head wont get seen
Judges Score: 9.5 Minus half point for far right drawrbinet 😊 I’m using a parts cabinet with drawerbinets as the base to my welding bench. Works great. 👍
What a great idea. I can certainly see an advantage for accessible kitchens as well. I am also a huge fan of soft close drawer guides. Costly, yes. Cool factor, priceless.
*_You have gained 50-75% more storage space._* *_I tried to make floor-to-ceiling rolling bookshelves....but I was too much of a novice to pull it off---now THAT would have been an immense spacesaver._*
The Best Beginner Woodworking Course...Period Sign Up - www.bestbeginnerwoodworking.com/
Get the plans to build your own Drawerbinets - www.lincolnstwoodworks.com/store/p/upper-drawerbinet
Helpful comment, I hope - For hogging out those mortises for the dowel, you should pilot hole all the way through with a small bit (3/16 or less), then pre drill out the first 1/4 inch or so from both sides with your final bit size using the small drill hole as a reference. Then drill out the center, removing the middle last, rather than one side that blows out as the bit shoots through the last layers of plywood and destroys the veneer.
5’10” ha ha. You’re 5’8” max…
Currently in an apartment with no knowledge of the current city I'm in. Otherwise I'd definitely purchase this course.
If I purchase the course, do I have to follow along starting in January, or will it be available to download when I have time to view?
@@valcourisland1776 nope. Lifetime access whenever you want it!
woodworking is about making boxes and naming it something else
In fact, a huge part of UA-cam is making a box as part of another project.
I want that on a shirt.
Wait, you’re right
I'd like to add "*Modern woodworking". Old styles of joinery and fine carving etc. used to make for some really great organic form furniture, but now everything I see online is perfectly square, made using 20 different machines and has unnecessary biscuit joins to make up for a woodworker that doesn't know how to properly join angles together.
@@Handles_AreStupidYes now woodworking is only assembling veneered particule board with Lamellos into rectangles
My garage came with the common “used to be the kitchen cabinets” and I hate them. I thought this was a clever project and in the conclusion it dawned on me that I could just make insert for my existing cabinets. It is “shop” furniture after all. Thank you for the inspiration!
I have the same thing (but it was my fault they ended up in the garage). Such a useless consumption of good space - they're just full of long-forgotten or seldom used things. So I'm going to do the same thing you are. (It is a good idea and certainly less work.) Just gonna build the drawerbinettes, take off the doors' hinges, and use them as the face plates. Think it should be possible to build them in place without having to take the cabinettes down at all. (Good luck on your project!)
@@ArchetypalCatmake sure they're extraordinarily well anchored into the wall!!! that looks like a lot of weight.
Good luck and have a good day
@@ashleysanford8645 That's a good point.
Same but I'm making inserts of this type for some of my kitchen cabinets as well. No point in building from scratch when existing boxes still do the job.
I love the idea! Thanks for sharing
I literally got a concussion last week, because I stored some 12" cast-iron C- clamps on a rack about 2 feet above my eye level, & they fell down on my head. I now have to do occupational therapy, & have a 4-6 wk recovery time. Im just sharing this so other woodworkers wont do the same stupid thing I did.
Thanks...but odds are, I STILL will.
yikes. so lesson is no heavy stuff above your head. at least without some modification to preventing it from toppling out of there... but "rack" vs cabinet sounds different
@@TreggLiebler😂😂😂 same, I should probably learn from others mistakes but when I'm doing them I just can't seem to remember them. Still, the warning is nice because not everyone is the same as I am.
Don’t feel so bad. I use a wheelchair and a frozen chicken fell from the freezer. Giving a concussion and other issues. Explain that one without a lifetime of teasing!
Storing full 4x8 sheets of plywood on the short edge so they’re up high is also something I won’t ever do again. I moved a small item that was next to the thing the plywood was leaning against. That was enough to tip the whole thing. Knocked over a cart with my Ridgid sander and sent that flying. All good after resetting the gravity switch inside it. And ordering the rear dust collection plastic piece. Even against a wall I hate storing 4x8 plywood up the long way.
OMG. I came for the drawbinets but stayed for the set up and the tips. I am a beginner DIY. But I believe in myself. And have purchased some decent tools over the years. And now I’m in a new house with an attached garage plus. So I’m getting ready to start my setup. And your awesomeness point is valid so I won’t be getting in over my head. But I’ll be starting with my closet transformation and then moving on to a bench and my setup. And then I’m getting on two boxes after that to rip off a floating entertainment centre for my bedroom!! You have a viewer and subscriber. It was Jan 12 yesterday 🙄The algorithm failed us both 😜 loving all the rest
100% agree with you on this. Not only do I build my wood shop storage like this…I also built my kitchen storage like this AND my firewood storage the same. My neighbor thought I was nuts regarding the firewood storage until he saw it in action.
I wish this was reddit so we could see!
I would like to request pictures!
@@scottyb4260 Ooft! Pics on UA-cam? Seems impossible.
@@KetchupKidKyle Roger that. UA-cam hates pics…and links.
That’s awesome
As a carpenter. Nice job BUT. I RESPECTFULLY suggest on your dowels for tape rolls . You have them back to front. Rolls hang over each other. I say set dowels rods left to right , ( as you look into the box) two bottom two top. The tape rolls can sit on the dials like dishes on a rack. You can then double the number of rolls and never have to move one to get to another.
Damn that’s a good idea
It took me two readings (and I've even built a similar thing) but once I pictured what you were describing, I LOVE it. This is why we need a drawing feature in the UA-cam comments section (joking not joking).
Kinda wish I had a visual so I could understand better...
@@MRSketch09 In @adgieem1's comment he has the tape rolls resting on a pair of dowels running side to side rather than being skewered by them running front to back.
@@MRSketch09 Google "Tire Rack" and any of the images shown is the storage approach they're talking about.
Dude rediscovers the kitchen spice rack drawer, including the use of the dowel midway. 😂
Was going to say this, I have a small one for spices, a bigger one for flower, rice, pasta etc and then a middle one for cooking pots and pans in the kitchen...
We call them "pharmacist's cabinet" in german
Yeah, I work at a cabinet hardware distributor and there are plenty of inserts for this application. Not sure how they would compare on price vs the materials used here, plus the advantage of building to the exact space. If you have the ability and means I'd say it's a worthwhile project. Plus these are built like a brick s#!thouse.
Truth
@@guitargas1894 flour
To be honest, I skipped to the end because I do not know wood working. But as a 4'9 tiny woman, I love this idea, I'll keep it in mind for my kitchen remodel.
Small frame big brain, I did to 🤣
When you buy new cabinets, get drop-down hinges.
Wow! I'm 5' 1", and I would love your drawer-binets in my kitchen, sewing room and garage! Nobel Peace Prize to you! Thank you!
This!
So many great, common sense tips about cutting and fabrication that I have used for years for most all functional projects. The one tip I would give you is to rip a 45 degree on the rear streatcher/nailer on the bottom as a simple French Cleat. Then rip another board as the mounting cleat for later when you want to hang the cabinet. That way you can hang them by yourself as the cleat will hold the cabinet so you can screw the cabinet to the wall. No more having to catch a cabinet to the face.
There was a moment there, where I swear you said "Cuddle the parts prior to assembly." I guess this explains why my projects have been so problematic lately, I'm just not giving enough attention to the material's needs!
Cuddling is Caring
Tell them they're pretty.
Or, you're distracted by the allure of cuddling.
Tree hugging ruined lumber. It's too needy nowadays
😂
one of the best of the (probably 1,000) woodworking videos i've seen. practical. innovative. humble. funny.
Bravo, sir.
One con is that now I need these over my washer and dryer because I always have to work my way through all the cans and supplies to see what’s in there. I like the idea.
Idea for the far end ones, in case someone hasn’t mentioned this. You could install small hooks on either side of the drawbinet and stretch a thin bungee cord across the gap. Would keep things from falling on you but would be easy to get tall things in and out.
I love you style. Instructive without being condescending. You missed your calling as a shop teacher. I am building my forever home with a 90 yo woman in mind (because someday there will be one) and in the kitchen, I only want drawers on the bottom for easy access. Now you have me rethinking the top cabinets too. 🤔
Thank you so much! And good luck
@@Lincolnstww Even better than good luck: _good skill!_
I watched you build your drawerbinets today. It was so much fun. I have no experience in building cabinets but o grew up watching family members do it. I loved your laid back approach to it all which was very practical and understandable, not to mention hilarious at times. I will follow your projects
10 years ago I built a couple "drawer-binettes" for my bathroom. I was struggling with what to do with an extra 9 inches of space between the end of my 5 foot bathtub, and the 5 ft. 9 in. opening I was putting it in, as my bathroom is not the standard 5 foot width. I first planned to build a ledge at the far end of the tub but then I thought of the vertical drawer to provide ample storage of toiletries and other bath items. My "drawer-binette" goes floor to ceiling. It is divided into two drawers that glide on roller drawer glides, one at the top and one on the bottom of each. I can even access them while in the shower! Ten years on and I still marvel at their effective use of space.
There are a lot of takeaways here John. And I appreciate that even though you said it's not a "how to" video on building drawerbinets, you proceeded to do an entire video on how to build drawerbinets. 🎉
Yay!
Did something similar a few years back, but rather than have a plain flat front panel and needing to pull open the "drawerbinet" for everything, I have an open-faced set of 4" deep shelving facing the front to hold the more commonly accessed things I use, while less commonly used items are kept in side facing enclosures behind the front shelves. I made the assembly 96" wide with four slide outs. While you made short work of mounting the drawer slides I struggled with them no end, so thank you for the slide mounting descriptive!!
I think you're first woodworking guy on internet that actually seems to look at the tablesaw and actively avoid coming close to it, many people seem to rush and just do quite unsafe things but as they havent had an accident yet they dont realise it
I kept planning to build upper cabinets for my shop storage, and even considered a pull-out design like your drawerbinets. I bought a DVD video showcasing a similar design back in the days before UA-cam became ubiquitous. Anyway, that project was always put off as I faced higher priority projects. Meanwhile, I had a hodgepodge of shelves with stuff jammed on them. Things were disorganized, hard to locate, prone to falling, and covered with dust. As an interim solution, I bought a bunch of plastic lidded bins in three standard sizes. These are the clear (frosty) bins sold in big box stores and I bought them on sale. I also bought a bunch of heavy duty shelf brackets and standards from the same big box store. I replaced my previous rickety shelves with three horizontal rows of these heavy duty shelves, spaced just right to hold the bins. I filled each bin with like items and labeled them with masking tape. What I intended as a quick-and-dirty temporary solution worked way better than any of my more complicated and expensive ideas would have. When I want wood putty, for example, I just pull down the wood putty bin, get what I need and put the bin back. The putty cans and tubes stay together, dust free. The bins and their contents don't inadvertently fall. Things are effortlessly organized, and the organization is easy to maintain. If I buy more putty, for example, it just goes in the same bin. If the bin is full, I just shift putty to a bigger bin or add a second bin. As a bonus, if a liquid like glue or oil drips or spills a bit, the mess is confined to the bin. Easy peasy.
I use bins the same way. I does work great. When dust builds up, it's just on the lids and some sides - easy peasy to vacuum clean once in a while. However, as I got older, I realized that the largest bins would become too heavy ... well, ok, they didn't change weight, I got weaker. LOL. So I built shelf bottoms that are essentially drawers with no sides - a sliding rack which the bins sit on. The sides are just 1x2 oak slats the drawer sliders are attached to. Same with the front and back. (To have something to grab and to keep the bin from potentially sliding backwards... Essentially very shallow drawers. So now I just pull the sliding shelf out, the bin coming along with it, then open the bin lid ... etc. Works great. Now If I could just finish my anti-gravity lifter, life would be really easy peasy. :))
Not bad at all. You did an amazing job describing everything and even showing some mistakes. We all learn from mistakes so that's great to see you not hiding them. When I worked for a custom cabinet shop 20years ago, we went to the wood workers show in Vegas. The shop ended up getting a really nice beam saw and cnc machine. While there, we looked at some of the cool designs people were doing in cabinetry. We saw this and the owners had us build them for the showroom and they absolutely took off with every customer wanting at least 2 or 3 wall cabinet pull outs in the kitchen.
As a novice who has built much yet I was thinking why isn’t he sliding the miter saw and he answered as I asked. This is a top channel imo
I had very very deep pantry cabinets so I added Reva shelves and made them the same thing you have and I didn't have to build them all. I just used the pullouts that they give you and attach the doors to that
Finally! No nonsense case construction and what I consider proper pocket hole screw use.
I worked in a commercial cabinet shop for years and built thousands of cabinets that way. Bravo
They have newer versions of kitchen cabinets where the shelves can be pulled out and drop down for easier access. They address the issue brought up early on about the top shelves being mostly inaccessible and forgotten, though less on the 'forgotten' part since you can still easily forget things are up there
Doing a single french cleat strip makes hanging cabinets a lot easier for one person
I hang cabinets professionally and I use the FastCap cabinet jacks. A little expensive up front, but cheaper than hiring a helper.
Third hand
fastcap third hand. issue with french cleats either you have to recess them or your cabinet sticks out by the width of the cleat. Using Fastcap third hand tools make it easy.
@@guytech7310not if you make your back of the cabinet same as bottom of a drawer, it goes inside
There is metal hardware available that allows you to just hook them on. However, it has further advantages-
- it mounts on the side panel, meaning the back (if any) can be thin and non structural.
-it has vertical screw adjustment, for perfect alignment to the cabinet next to it
-it can then be adjusted backwards, to sit tight to the wall- or adjust for depth difference between cabinets (uneven wall).
Once you have used them, you will never go back.
Reminded me of pull out bedroom closets we had in a house when I was a teen. The pull out closet was about five feet wide. It included a top and bottom shelf so that nothing was very hidden or lost in the back. It also had closet rods on each side. You could make one side for winter clothes and one for summer wear. I had not thought about those closets in a long time. We were only in that house two or so years. That's the Army life.
Great video! Two comments;
1) I have been thinking about something similar for my shop for quite a while. Your video gave me a great idea.
2) thank you for saying that you drilled pilot holes, not “pre-drill.” That term never made sense to me. I think “wait a minute, you didn’t pre drill, you drilled a hole. I just watched you!”
Pre-drilling refers to drilling a similar sized hole for the fastener. Pilot drilling refers to using a smaller drill bit first before drilling a larger bit. Especially when using hardwoods.
@@UniqueMDF so the difference between drill and pre-drill is the size of the hole in relation to the size of the fastener?? In the days before nail guns we would drill a hole in the hardwood trim for the nails. Usually we would use a nail of the same size. I wonder, were we drilling or pre-drilling??
Nice work. Some UK kitchen companies do units built along these lines. The problems with normal base cabinets ( =wide ) rather than wall cabinets ( =narrower ) is that when you fill them with tins and biscuits etc you just can't see what you have in there. Another good plan is to have storage space on the rear of the door, like the smaller fridges we have in the UK rather than the huge walk-in ones that seem to show up in your part of the world. I got the same Ryobi nailer as you which I find very good to use. Rob.
Yeah its a good one
"Walk-in [fridges]" You must be talking about Texas (where everything is bigger)? I think they store entire butchered steers in theirs, plus some milk, beer, and barbeque sauce...
Many kitchen companies here in Norway also do the pullout units, but usually for narrow base cabinets only. There are some that do full-height pantry pullout solutions, and companies like Häfele make hardware for those - we have one of them (the "Tandem Chef's Pantry") in ours, and while it does "steal" some space, we gain a lot of accessibility.
Perfect application for over-the-fridge storage.
Made this myself years ago, however, I hung my frames from "barn door tracks" which allowed me to stack everything side-by-side in very compact form. When I need something, I pull the entire frame out from the row of cabinets and open the proper drawer.i
I guess it all depends on what you find yourself building or doing in your shop. I use scraps of plywood ALL the time. They make clamping cauls, sanding blocks, inserts to turn an old low sided filing cabinet into one with higher sides that will hold hanging files, shims, spacers, doll houses, shelves and a million other things!
I have a few cardboard boxes that I throw my small cutoffs into. I use them when i can and when the box gets full I will burn the smallest stuff first in my wood stove. I end up burning most of it but it saves a little material, takes minimal space, provides some heat in the winter and it makes me feel better when I do finally burn it
I like it. It is nice seeing guys do something a little different (especially on UA-cam where so much of the content is similar!) For their shops. I've kept plans, articles and pictures over the years of things like these pull out cabinets, folding cabinets, pull down cabinets that hang on the ceiling. The only limit on shop storage is the one you put on yourself. Making something unique like this is far more satisfying.
Great video man, props to you for always being yourself and showing the woodworking world that you don't have to be identical to everyone else to be a good craftsman
There is also the French cleat, which makes mounting boxes to walls a breeze.
You beat me to it, this is a great build and continued to be impressed with the content. But I agree, a French cleat here would make install easier and in my case they can be moved as needed as my tools and space changes over time. Really fantastic, keep up the great videos! @Lincolnstww
fastcap third hand tools makes it even easier.
Just wanted to quickly add something if making the cut in the cabinet for the lights, make sure that you are avoiding the screws that to me would be the step some people would overlook when making this cut
That is some kind of high level storage right here. Awesome man. I already built my upper cabinets on my workstation like 2-3 years ago, so I won't redo it, and frankly, it's working, but yours are quite nice, and I'm totally sure that the next time I have to build something for storage I'll do that.
I think it is also good for lower cabinets because you always end up crouching to reach the back, and don't see it often. When talking to my wife about a freezer, she didn't want to get a horizontal one because items on the bottom always end up lost because you put shit up it. I though that it would be smart to design a freezer with vertical drawers to get access to full size, but you basically just did it horizontally, proving that sliding is far superior to just a box.
Nice once !
Appreciate it. Thanks
Had a trash can cabinet in my kitchen like this. In about 2 years, the weight at the end had bent the under-engineered rails enough that it would slowly slide open. Replacing the rails is required buying a whole new kit. Expensive.
My son takes all my scrap wood, that becomes his project materials. Its fun watching him learn to use tools and his creativity.
Good idea 👍🏽
Or Use it right away and still don't store it?
I'm with you. I want the storage but I don't like the idea of not being able to reach clear into the cabinet only to find I'm hiding something that I need and have to go buy a new one every time I need that tool. I'm definitely going to look into getting some of these plans.
Using standard rails mounted in the middle instead of using those (rather expensive) bottom-top rails is clever. Solves a conceptual problem of my own that I've had with (a dream of) a boardgame drawbinet. Thanks!
yeah those are so expensive. I looked at them and decided no way
I don't know the first thing about woodworking but my dream cabinet improvement for my kitchen would be a set of inner shelf/racks that hold everything secure within a box/frame and then it all can be pulled forward and down by a handle at the bottom to reach the contents, and then back up and into the cabinet.
I like this style of video a lot! Your other cabinet videos were great, but I like when you strictly speak about each step you're doing, while doing it. If that makes any sense. A great video and deserves a million views. Just don't buy any bot views, lol. If you know, you know.
lol - got the bots lined up for this one. And thanks for noticing the video style. Its my favorite for sure.
40 years ago I purchased an oak doctor's apothecary cabinet that was built as 3 sections measuring 3' x 5' that I installed in my log cabin as a pantry under a stairway. Comprised of 36 pull out "drawers" it has performed flawlessly. It came with brackets to hold labels, so I assigned titles for general items like "SOUPS, CANNED VEGETABLES, COFFEE, SUGARS, etc. It's been a wonderful pantry. I don't loose my inventory, and the drawers pull out 100% but safely lock in place when fully extended, just as your upper cabinets do in this video. I can vouch that this style of cabinet is well worth installing! Thank you for your video!
This is great for the same reasons:
(1) I stole an idea from K-Mart, which is, the swinging racks on which they displayed posters. I used the concept to have all my layout tools both on display and easy to access. The difference is, my racks are an inch thicker to allow my to screw things into 3/8" dunnage plywood, or to pound nails into the sides to mount try-squares, angle gauges, thickness gauges, calipers, protractors, compasses and so on.
(2) I made ALL our lower cabinets into drawers (100-150 # slides) to hold pots, pans, graters, glass storage vessels and so on that could all be accessed without emptying the shelf to get to the things in back.
(3) I made pull-outs under the sink to hold cleaning supplies and things.
My last 3 homes I built floor to ceiling sideways sliding drawers to get to both sides. This house had nice Kitchen door cabinets so I have not ripped them out.
I buy a few boxes of Chomps a year. They pack well for a motorcycle ride where I need a quick protein snack to balance my Carbs due to diabetics. No added sugar, CHECK. Taco and Jalapeno, sometimes the Turkey too.
Pull out functionality is a must!
Great video and easy to understand how you made the drawer-binates. As someone from UK, I hate to burst your bubble on the invention. Shortly after we moved into our house 30 years ago, we took out an old kitchen unit that had a tall version of the Drawer-binets - almost 8ft tall and 12 inches wide, with 2 small drawers at the bottom, a 5ft Drawer-binet in the middle and a final cubby with a horizontal-opening flap door at the top. I fitted it in my garage where it's given another 30 years of further service. Fitted kitchens in Europe are really quite advanced compared with the US with lots of cunning solutions on how to fit lots of storage into small spaces (we tend to have smaller rooms in UK and Europe).
Irregardless of that, it was great to see how you tackled making them and I really like your presentation. Keep it up!! Thanks.
30:14 i like the french cleat whenever I'm working alone for garage boxes for exactly this situation.
I don’t know if other people relate to how you present your thoughts and processes…. But it totally resonates with me and I felt like you were talking directly to me and I was really picking up what you were putting down!! Excellent work and I love your drawerbinets !!
thaks so much, glad you found it easy to follow
This is why im subbed to this channel. "Drawerbinets"
Laugh out loud. Especially the head tilt. I appreciate the extra work on setting up the joke, really great to add humor into the whole thing.
Thank you bongface!
I love space saving ideas. Anything which you can spread out to remind me whats inside is always a plus - I spend 90% of the time trying to find stuff I vaguely know is in that back corner of storage cabinets and inside stacked boxes somewhere
Would love to see you making a pull-down/drop-down shelf - the ones where, as you pull on the handle, they move out and down. With that type we would hopefully be able to make better use of space that we can't comfortably reach without climbing up on tables and wobbly chairs. It also seems like a fun design and build challenge.
I saw somewhere they have drawer slide/ hinges for that now (or I just noticed them). Can't remember where, though.
easier to build a solid little step stool
@@PrinceCbass But where's the fun in that? 😃
These are also handy in kitchens for people who can't climb or balance (older or handicapped, for instance).
I’m retiring in two days…a garage redux is at the top of my projects, perfect timing and your ‘drawerbinets’ are under very serious consideration.
I built these type of uppers years ago after watching John Heisz pioneer the idea. They work great, thanks John!
Every time I invent something in my shop, I then discover John invented it first
Drawerbinet needs to be a T-shirt 😂
Agree
All the best of the season to you and your family. Happy and safe New Year.
0:23 that beep didn't help with censoring lol
This solution hits close to home. I live in my Grandparents' house and I'm going through their belongings as time goes on. I've found so many duplicate copies of the exact same hardware and tools that I'm sure resulted from Grandpa just not knowing he already had one tucked at the back of a cabinet.
Longest advertisement for Chomps I’ve ever watched.
I don't do much (hardly any) woodworking since I live in a small apartment, but I enjoy it when I do.
I love your clear, concise instructions, not-too-fancy approach to the process, and your humor is just my style. Well done!
Oh, and congratulations on the Nobel Peace Prize.
Very nice, I've seen similar things as pullout pantries before. My favorite cabinet variation is for kitchens though, so years ago my parents were renting an apartment where the counter with the sink in it was stone and sloped into the sink, the cabinets for dish storage were above it not very deep and it had no bottoms and the shelves were all drain racks pegged into the sides of the cabinets. This meant that you could just wash a dish, put it away, and then it would drip down onto the counter and all the water would just roll into the sink.
Absolutely love the drawerbinets. Now it's time to solve that last problem you stated, which was cabinets being to high. If there was a way to pull the drawers out then down....that would solve the issue. Food for thought. Loved the video and idea. Gonna make some of my own in the future.
I’ve stumbled upon your videos and I’ve been binge watching. I really like how you explain things and dumb it down for us dummies. Also you show your mistakes and throw some humor in there too. Excellent work, I have subscribed.
I made exactly this for my upper pantry cabinet. Works great in the kitchen too. No more stuff lost up high on a 22 inches deep shelf
I made something similar over my fridge that I store mason jars with food consumables only I put a pair of draw rails top and bottom
Love them! My grandpa, God rest his soul, made several huge drawerbinets. They were about 7 feet tall, free standing on caster wheels. So cool!
This is exactly what I've pictured in my ideal kitchen.
I'd also add a couple drawbinets that go from the floor to the top of the cabinet height that just have a big sheet of pegboard inside.
Great tutorial. Fairly straightforward. And I now know my style of measuring - referential. I happen to be framing a room in the basement today and was explaining to my helper (daughter) that I find it easier and more accurate to place the pieces where it will be installed, draw a good line and cut -,as my friend Tommy Yox always said “leave the line”.
I actually did this in my kitchen. I made the cabinets myself. I was a cabinet maker. And I thought I can't see what's at the back of the cabinet so I made him pull out so you could see everything that was in the cabinet. I think it's a brilliant idea.
29:50 Tip to hang cabinets easier. Before attaching the rear stretchers rip them in half with a 45 degree bevel. Attach the top half to the box with the long edge towards the outside, then attach the bottom half to the wall with the short edge to the wall. Now you can hang your box.
As a method of making upper cabinet storage accessible I think this is a great idea . I like my upper kitchen cabinets go right up to the ceiling, but that makes the upper sections difficult ot access or even see what you have stored up there. This looks like a nice way to make these spaces more practical. I must have another look at your kitchen cabinet videos and see if you applied the idea in that space as well.
When using a forstner bit, if you stop drilling the moment the pilot pokes out the other side, flip the piece over and use the pilot poke hole to center the bit and start drilling from the other side, you’ll avoid the unsightly blow out.
If you can’t get to the other side, you can prevent blow out by clamping a sacrificial piece of wood under your intended hole and then keep drilling until you are into the sacrificial piece.
I have never heard of iron on edge banding before. I have been trying to figure out how I can redo my wardrobe and make it look nice without spending hundreds on fancy wood for way too long. I can now actually do that project - thank you!
Also, I'm gonna be making drawerbinets in my shed for sure
Have been making cabinets and furniture for a living over fifty years. Excellent video. Well done.
Note: I have never, and will never, use pocket screws. speaking only for myself, I cannot stand them.
Other than that, you did a first class job. Be safe, enjoy your "drawerbinets".
Oh and by the way, I made the mistake of showing the video to my wife. Mistake.
Love the concept. We have a drawerbinet for the trash & recycle bins. It doesn't seem to last very well. But I'm guessing that's because it was quickly put together. So I hope that yours last longer than the 4-6ish months ours did before it didn't go in and out very smoothly. Good thing for warranties.
Very innovative indeed. I am using some basic cabinets out of scrap and what was handed down to me so I cannot wait to upgrade to something like this!
I did something like this for my mother a few years ago. It was for a dead space under the stairs which was quite deep. She wanted somewhere to store her shoe collection. I basically built basic boxes with shelves like a bookcase) out of plywood without any backing, at reducing heights, and put them on some 2x3 framing timber, used heavy duty slides on the bottom. I didnt need to build any outer boxes since it was under the stairs, but I built a frame using framing timber and screwed that all into the walls and stairs. I made the fronts out of MDF and used a 1/8 roundover and painted them the same colour as the walls. The fronts have the same slope as the stairs to match and fit. I did it all using only a mitre drop saw, circular saw, Drill, impact driver and a trim router.
An idea for you. Your right most drawbinet that is against the wall, if the slides can be mounted top and bottom you could have it swivel to the left giving you access to the side that is otherwise against the wall.
When applying iron on edge banding, I like to use a block to rub over as it cools. It makes it easier to get it to stick down tight.
We install alot of inserts like this in cabinets. Mostly lowers, but a few uppers here and there.
Ironically, my boss, the owner of a cabinets company, has a small kitchen. His pantry cabinets have multiple roll-outs for this very reason.
My only concern with what you've done here is your slide placement. I think you'll have trouble with sagging later on. A second set of accurides at the top would probably help a lot with this. Typically, our rollouts use undermount slide on the bottom and accurides on top for stability.
Really like your organization.👌🏻
I had a similar idea maybe 10 years ago, and I know that these vertical storage systems existed before that. I think that there's another way to build these with the extension hardware on the top and bottom, one sheet of plywood in the middle, kind of an I-Beam construction and you can build your shelves, hangers, etc. on either side. I also considered the edge mounting like you did in your build. One exception, I was thinking of something more for under cabinets, or drawer-bin-ettes as you call them, and yes the ends would need to be addressed differently, like pullout drawers. I'm happy to see someone else realize that the depth of cabinets is wasted space and that you can increase accessibility using this method. In the end, I ended up not making them in favor of slide out bins on shelves, but I like your design here, very cool.
I’m designing a kitchen at the moment and I’m seriously considering these for all the cupboards top and bottom. Thank you.
Stud finding tip, use a small nail and insert multiple times to find bothEDGES of the stud so you can hit at center on each subsequent at 16”. It’s going to be behind your board/cabinet so don’t worry about holes in the drywall.
One thing I love about your videos is that even if I don't learn anything (which hasn't happened yet) I'll always be entertained by the witty commentary! Keep up the great work & good luck on that Nobel Prize!!!
2/64ths is what I was trained as a tolerance for aviation structures. This means that your guidance on off square is a pretty high standard. I concur that this shouldn’t put you far off in the long run. Just always shoot for perfect so it doesn’t domino down the line.
Wow! I just watched The third or fourth video of yours. I didn't think it was possible. You have even more to be humble about now! Not to mention your delivery is appealing to large corporations and they are clamoring to have space in between your quips, Construction, and complementary Coercion to those who are doubting their ability to do such things.So part of that's a good thing.
Drawerbinets is a fantastic word and I had no idea I was getting a message channeled from you in the future when I did this in my kitchen. Thank past future you! Your innovation has been great!
Iron-on edging can be "firmed down" by pressing down with a wood or plastic wallpaper edging roller. Used just after the iron it helps press down the edging glue into the board. Especially useful if used on chipboard (ugh!) or MDF.
I wanted something close to this in my old house. The washer and dryer had cabinets over them, but they were so big none of the short people in my house could reach them. I thought it'd be neat to pull them out and replace them with slightly narrower cabinets on slides so you could pull the whole unit forward to reach the cabinets, then push it back so you had access to the top of the washer and dryer.
Nobody builds for us slightly shorter than average people.
French cleats for cabinets. That way the cleats can be securely attached to wall studs. The cabinets can be securely hung on the french cleats until you get them all into place and attached to each other. Then you can use one or two screws per cabinet through the back of the cabinets and through the french cleats to hold them into place while the french cleats hold their weight across the entire width of the cabinets and wall.
These are great. No Nobel prize, however as many people already do this.
Very nice looking design for the most part. Liked how you solved most of the issues.
Minor changes- Outer box top and bottoms could be reduced to 1/2 or even 3/8 ply, as they don't carry much if any load. Use a clear sealer on the outer faces so finger prints can be easily cleaned off in the future.
Major change - should have 2 sets of sliders on each one. The caseing alone is effetively eating 50% of their capacity if it has denser shelving, and it is very easy to overload these. For example if you store all your manuals in one, or boxes of screws/nails/hardware the slides will have to hold 100-150 lbs of material plus 30-50 lbs of drawer. Most slides at a reno store are only rated for 100 lbs or so.
If your really slick you can integrate aluminium bracing for holding the slides which also acts as the "handrail" so you can see the bottom of the shelf.
Same concept applies if doing this for a kitchen. Spices are light, but pots/pans or bags of flour and surgar are heavy and should be in drawers with extra rails, or suppor from below.
Dude writes an essay for a comment and still doesn't use "your" "you're" correctly...
Damn you people, this is UA-cam not a rock concert.
This is a really cool innovation, Jon~! I've been hemming & hawing on getting my miter station & other cabinets built for some time now. I've resolved the lowers by getting a pair of mobile toolbox/workbenches to add a spanning piece for the chop saw, but for the uppers I think I may tackle what you've thrown down here. I love the functionality~! Thanks for sharing this~!
I designed and built pull out spice racks for the kitchen. It is way better than the shelf design. Just pull out and its stacked 2 high so I fit way more spices in a small space. I have 5 pull outs on the first shelf just for this purpose
Nice solution. Looks great. I just through a bunch of large clear Akro bins on the wall and called it a day.
Id highly recommend you buy yourself a paint knife for spreading glue. Little tip i picked up from an old guy on site, brushes end up getting ruined and if you use your fingers everything gets covered in glue. A paint knife is perfect for spreading glue and is easily cleaned when the glue is wet or dry. I recommend a No.8
Another tip, when fixing cabinets together put your screw behind the hinge, that way you have a good fixing and the screw head wont get seen
Judges Score: 9.5
Minus half point for far right drawrbinet 😊 I’m using a parts cabinet with drawerbinets as the base to my welding bench. Works great. 👍
What a great idea. I can certainly see an advantage for accessible kitchens as well. I am also a huge fan of soft close drawer guides. Costly, yes. Cool factor, priceless.
*_You have gained 50-75% more storage space._*
*_I tried to make floor-to-ceiling rolling bookshelves....but I was too much of a novice to pull it off---now THAT would have been an immense spacesaver._*