Hi Keith, The math is bothering me slightly. Now I understand the 3,4,5 method, but I'm not sure you can just add, multiple and then add to the result in the way you did. I'll repeat what you did using Pythagoras a² + b² = c² We want to know c, therefore c = sqrt(a² + b²) 1) 3²+4²=25 Sqrt(25) = 5 2) you doubled the values 6²+8²=100 Sqrt(100) = 10 3) You multiplied by 100 600²+800² = 1,000,000 Sqrt(1,000,000) = 1000 At this point everything is correct, however simply adding 100 to those values does not work... 700²+900² = 1,300,000 Sqrt(1,300,000) = 1,140.1754 Not 1100 After watching the video back several times, adding 100 is not required as the datum point (x100,y100) can be whatever value you want. As long as you measure from this datum point 600mm in one direction and 800mm perpendicular to it, the 2 points will have a distance of 1000mm (not 1100) if the sides are at 90°. I still can't figure out how you got 1100. Hopefully, I've missed something and I'd appreciate if someone could point it out, but I'd hate for someone to make a mistake on something that is intended to be very accurate. I love your videos, keep up the good work!
Hello, I'm a metal worker but same principles apply. I find using dividers to lay out equidistant holes is extremely accurate. In this case absolute accuracy of the holes is not as important as relative accuracy. If the holes are all at 100.01 mm centres it doesn't matter as long as they are all 100.01 mm to achieve square/ straight when jigging/ fixturing. Dividers ensure completely consistent centres. Hope this helps someone. Great build cheers.
Good Tip, I was a carpenter for many years and began using dividers to lay out the pickets on a stairway on flat runs, especially if the rail had a radius.
This is a valuable addition to my woodwork collection ua-cam.com/users/postUgkxbnOKZBE4evMO5V2vroHeCjq6d_MV6wJO I still will rate this woodwork plan as the best in my reference library. It always seem to stand out from the rest whenever you go through the library. This is a masterpiece.
As a Festool rep told me, the 96mm on centers was decided on because of the 32mm cabinet frame less metric that is used in Germany and everywhere as a whole.Loved the math lesson and the marking of the top.Seems your jig was spot on.
This is the way 😂 . Most of european cabinets are designed with this rule of 32mm. Hinges fit perfect on this 32mm space. Common handle has a 96cm space between pins...
This is a really excellent video. What came into my mind about the jig for the holes of the mft. If it would be cut a bit wider - e.g. 250 mm instead of 200 mm and you drill two lines of holes (seperated by exactly 100 mm, and the first line 100 mm from the side) you can use it to drill it line by line. But the idea of this jig is really good.
96 mm is a good universal "unit" if I may say. If you divide 96 / 3 = 32 mm, then you can divide 32 mm in half up to 1 mm: 32, 16, 8, 4, 2, 1. Also 96 / 2 = 48, 24, 12, 6, 3. With 100 mm you stop at 100, 50, 25 mm.
Looks to me like it's to maintain compatibility with imperial units. 3mm ~ 1/8" 6mm ~ 1/4" and so on. I don't use imperial units so like the simplicity of 100mm centres. All the best, Rob in Switzerland
@@RobWhittlestone I don’t think it’s very compatible. It’s exactly 25.4mm per inch. Dividing out 96 gives 3.7795 inches. 89mm would be closer at 3.5039 inches and 127mm is exactly 5 inches, but these aren’t very ergonomic to use as both are prime numbers. If I were choosing a width, I’d go with 108mm which has a lot of great factors: 1, 2, 3, 4, 6, 9, 12, 18, 27, 36, 54, 108 or 120mm which has even better factors: 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 8, 10, 12, 15, 20, 24, 30, 40, 60 and 120
I want to thank you for making this video. I followed your instructions and tested it out on an old sheet of underlayment I'm using for clamping/assembly to see if it was any good. I'm quite impressed by the accuracy of this method and I've made multiple test cuts and every time the tolerance is within 0.05 - 0.10 mm and this is really more then enough for my woodworking projects. Thanks again and keep up the good work !
I made a perfectly serviceable MFT following your clear and concise your instructions. Thanks! I did center the 20mm holes to 96mm only because I thought there might be jigs out there that are tailored to Festool's specs. Sidenote: I made bench dogs of various heights and purpose on the lathe.
As wood is becoming very expensive and scarce here in Mexico, I'm thinking on using heavy gauge perforated steel angle (such as used for racks and shelves) that, with enough cross bracing, and bolting it to the floor with anchor bolts, could provide great rigidity at the lower base, but the substructure for the top still needs some thinking. Thanks for a great video on how to make the top, and kudos for your 100 mm spacing! What people preferring to buy instead of DIY, is losing, is a great-great-great opportunity to Learn by thinking and designing yourself the project, like you did. One humble suggestion taken from aeromodellers that use Balsawood (that is quite soft): once you drill every hole and before coating with varnish, you can harden the wall of the holes by wetting them with thin (fast curing) Cyano -acrilate glue. The thin glue is absorbed by the MDF (and most woods) and the glue hardens the surface of the wood. Aeromodellers use that trick to harden the threaded holes in Balsa wood that will receive screws, so that the thread in the wood is more resistant. Same here, to better withstand the push of the dogs. Liked, Subscribed and "Belled".
Thanks for clearly describing all of the steps you used to make your MFT style top. Great results. Other makers claim that a spade bit works better, but your auger bit seemed to do the job nicely. I’m also new to using MFT style tops, but I like the flexibility they offer to hold components during cutting & assembly.
96 mathematically is a dozen related number. Dozens are nice because they are divisible by 2, 3, 4 and 6 unlike decimals. I’d say that is why Festool selected 96mm. Thanks for the great video!
Very nice job Keith, and thanks so much for the shout-out and linky-links! One thing I do find the MFT useful for that isn't immediately obvious, is to use the back of the rail as a straight-edge when you're using the Domino for 'inboard' mortices - I talk about the technique a bit in video #182 - and it's a real time-saver, especially when you add in stops and flags on the rail, or even just pencil marks. 👍
Great video. Can I offer a possible refinement to the process when locating the layout of the holes. The initial row is drilled, then the first hole is used to pivot the guide 90 deg to locate the continued row spacing. This could be repeated on the opposing edge and then you just locate each row by top and bottom hole and drill all those inbetween.
You could pivot the guide on both sides, once each, that way you can use 2 locator pins and stay accurate without measuring. Doubling the thickness of the guide will also improve the squareness of your drill.
Meme Plex. I had that thought too. Once you have a jig, it reduces errors from having to make more measurements - especially if measuring in 100mm increments, rather than absolute 0-(100,200,300,etc)... Incremental errors add up. John Coloe: Getting all the rows parallel with this method requires very accurate measuring of the free end for every row (absolute measurements is better than incremental), using the Jig to simply spot-drill the 2 long edge rows would remove the need for further measurement. (NB, In favour of your "argument"; even 1mm error at ~800mm (whatever the overall width is) is not significant as far as angle is concerned (asin(1/800) =0.072degrees). Though it will make it more difficult to get fixed dimension fixture "dogs" into the holes (are there any fixtures without adjustable dog spacings??).
Hi Keith, I keep coming back to your Chanel/Video's for inspiration. I also am a Newbee and this is only a hobby for me, I started up during to Covid period, I needed some sort of hobby to take my mind off the stresses of work.... well here I am several thousand euros later with a small workshop with a few tools. I love the way you manage to turn an expensive idea, like Peters Festool Table, into something I can play with and not have to spend more money on. Keep up the good work and thanks for inspiring me and keeping me occupied over the past 3 to 4 months.
It's also a multiple of the most common 16mm MDF and chipboard that in EU en the rest of the world from which cabinets are made. Thus the 96mm works towards the spacing for stacking multi layers of the 16mm stuff
Economical option to the commercial expensive alternatives. I almost ordered one from you know where, but this video changed my mind and saved me money for other necessary tools. Thanks!
there is a company called cnc design, never used them as yet but I am thinking of doing, anyway they make the mft tops but only the one size to fit the crazy price "F......tool.
you can buy templates to use with a router for around £30 now and they are very accurate and means you can make many tops at whatever size you need, if I was making an MFT top I would want it to be more accurate than this version.
I used your method to make an MFT top. Thank you so much for this clear and concise video. The top didn't turn out perfectly (maybe half a millimeter off in some places, but no compounding errors), even though I used a drill press and measured carefully -- but it's close enough for all the work I do, and a huge improvement to the workshop. Thanks again!
You've made quite a daunting task seem more achievable with clear instructions, tips and tricks! I've not found another video explaining this build as good as you. Thanks for sharing!
I have been looking to see how I could add dog holes to a workbench I have just built. This is a great video showing how it can be done without spending a lot of money. Thank you.
I've tried doing some looking, and it looks like the 96mm spacing comes from Festool basing a lot of their systems on 32mm, which apparently comes from European cabinet making using 32mm spacing as a base for shelf pins, if not most measurements of cabinets. Apparently this comes from the post-WW2 move from adjustable rails for shelving to pins for shelving, due to scarcity of steel at the time and moving to dowel pins, which also took multiple style variations and condensed it into a singular, standardized system; which also made production easier to handle, as you only need a single type of production line in factories, thus making factories more productive by design. 32mm happened to be what most readily available helical gears, that could also handle the torque needed without breaking, had between centers, which were used in a multi-spindle drilling setup. Very economical solution that used tooling that was already available, if history was different and had used larger or smaller gear spacing, we wouldn't be using 32mm as a base spacing today.
I believe it's also because 96 is nicely divisible by more numbers than 100, so for example if you want to use offset holes, you can divide by 2 (48), 3 (32), 4 (24) etc very easily. 100 divides by 2 easily but not by 3 so well. Just a thought.
I've tried doing repeated cuts like this and never been successful. I've always ended up frustrated and giving up. Thanks for sharing this, I'll try your way next time. Keep the videos coming, Keith, I really enjoy your honesty, skill and sense of humour. To my mind you've yet to do a dud and, looking back to the early ones, it's interesting to see how you've developed as a presenter/director as well as a woodworker. Cheers mate.
I might be 4 years late to the party but wanted to thank you for this! While I am a total Peter of Brit Workshop fanboy and really admire the thinking behind and engineering involved in the parf guide system, I just can't justify the financial outlay for it and have been looking for a viable alternative approach. I really like yours 👍 The only comment I would make to yours is that I would have liked to have seen some more rigorous accuracy testing and maybe in various positions over the table. Maybe even a 5-cut torture test LOL ;) Thank you again!
I've researched the spacing as well and it may not matter, but 100mm math gives 100/50/25/fractions. 96mm gives 96/48/24/12/6/3/fractions. The MFT table is new to me, but I can already see some real advantages. Nice video!
I do daily work with an MFT lookalike table. It isn't really a problem if a hole is blocked. If those wooden pieces beneath the table shift 5cm so they won't block the holes, it's hard to use clamps underneath. Now you just shift a hole, but you can still use the holes for inserts. In my opinion it doesn't really matter, you gotta give some or take some in either situation basically. I don't use my table to cut wood on, I only use it for building, assembling stuff. I made a couple of jiggs specifically for the work I do. Just get some 19 or 20mm wooden plugs. Works like a charm. Enjoy your table!
Keith, your set square that is no longer square can be adjusted, if you remove the ruler, there will be 2 small pieces of metal that the ruler rests against. A little bit of filling on the back one (looking at you test lines) should bring it back into square
I would if I had a file small enough. John Heisz actually used the ruler itself to adjust his! Something I've been meaning to try : ua-cam.com/video/cxrCZd7r6qE/v-deo.html
Looks like it worked. I would like to see a method using a plunge router though. One could use an edge guide and/or the track attachment for the router. Clean perpendicular holes.
The screw-holes in the Bench Dogs brand rail Square attach dogs to it in such a manner that it holds square to your table if you stuff them into your 96 mm holes. That's the only attachment I know of which requires the 96mm spacing, but it does exist.
Very simple idea well done. If you had either offset the line of 4mm holes to one side instead of cantering them you could have drilled an extra pair at each end 100mm away from the main line so that you could then index the next line of holes off the previous one and avoid introducing any error in measuring the distance for the edge of the board.
I was thinking the same thing, then it occurred to me that accurately place those two holes perpendicular to the jig full row could be difficult since your offset would only be 100mm. Over multiple rows getting laid out you could easily introduce a significant skew even though each of the rows would still be in parallel. I think creating a perpendicular row off each end hole of the first row, and then using those two parallel rows to span with the jig for proper alignment would work better
Thank you for posting this video. My experience with the table that I built is that the 90 degree accuracy was not that great as time went by. A better system than festool MFT table is to switch to a completely xy linear system. It is super accurate as you will be using the same components as real CNC but the z axix will never be as accurate as CNC because the top is not accurate. Frankly, I got tired of replacing the edge on festool guides and sometines the edge is not as good as I expected to be. Festool said this is caused by untuned saw and that I am pusging the saw from wrong angle.
Excellent! I've been looking for a DIY method for making an MFT top that didn't involve buying a ridiculously expensive jig. Thank you for sharing such detailed instructions!
I was really looking forward to seeing this video as I've just recently cut a mft style worktop with the parf guide. Aside from your additional setup, the time you need to drill and then bore out the holes is the same. The accuracy seems no less precise in your approach so I think you've proved a guide is not necessary. That said it's important that everyone realises that the accuracy of.the jig is crucial and you explained well the need to check and check again as you go. Anyway thanks for sharing an inlook forward to what you do next with it.
Great stuff! i've been watching for a few years now and this video is one of the best you've done! Fantastic idea, explained very well! I was put off the bought systems (mainly because of price) but also because the instructions made it out to be a very complicated process and for those who stuggle with maths, it seemed a little overwelming. This however is as simple as drilling some very accurate holes in a bit of wood. Keeping it simple is always the best! Keep up the good work, you've helped a lot of guys who would never have been able to afford a festool MFT or drilling guide system!
Nice simple jig. I would like to share this other little trick if you have the CAD model anyway. Paper templates. I have had success with setting out of the hole positions using a 1:1 scale paper plot, drawn in fusion 360. Print on a large format plotter fairly inexpensive or free when you know an architect. You can just tape or lightly spray glue the paper very precisely to the surface and use pins to mark all of the centers. Basically, you are free from doing any measuring as the centers are computer generated and you can print to a very high level of accuracy. Then it just depends on your drilling method as to how to maintain a vertical pilot hole. It is like having a really basic CNC without actually having the machine. You can then also change the pattern to another layout if needed. Have a great weekend.
I Like that idea a lot my thought would be to print out the array of holes on an A3 sheet. drill the 20mm (+ router collar) holes in that as a template then route out the holes in the work top. you can then reuse the template over the whole area of the work surface and on subsequent work surfaces using the dowels to hold the template in place.
still you have to be so accurate when making the holes, our guy using a drill , he must be the only one in the world who can drill at 90 degrees perfect. I know I am not so the dogs wont be quite right and hence cuts wont be at right angles
96 mm is based on the 32 mm hole spacing for multi spindle drill jigs (32 mm having been the smallest space available at the time of designing the system).
Excellent solution to something that I'm facing as I write this. Thank you. Someone may have already brought this up but the thought struck me that after you drill the first row of holes and pivot the jig 90 degrees to drill the first perpendicular column to it, one could return the jig to its original position, pin the jig on its other end, then rotate the jig 90 degrees and you can drill a third column of holes parallel to the second batch. You now can move the jig parallel to the first row of holes, pin each end to the two parallel columns, It seems to me this method would reduce the potential error of measuring each subsequent row. Am I missing anything??
made quite a few of these over the years. use a sheet of pegboard to set out your holes push a 5mm spur bit through to mark the holes, so much easier and if you can use a forstner bit in your router at slow speed to cut the holes alternatively buy a cheap drill press to do it. The 96mm is 3 x 32mm which is an industry standard many handles and cabinet dowels/pin outs are set to this. Its a left over from post WW2 utility furniture for some reason they picked 1 1/4" (32mm) for the multi head drilling machines of the time
I have been wanting one of these for ages but just couldn't justify the cost. This is a great option and I have all the bits lying around so very nearly free. Also, easy to custom size to suit the room. Thanks for posting.
I recently built a new workbench and have been saving up for the UK Parf Guide system jig... No more! Thanks Keith, I'll be doing this myself now 👏. Also thanks for doing the research into 96mm vs 100mm spacing, I was coming to the same conclusion but thought I must be missing something. I too have never actually used an MFT so I'm going with 100mm and crossing any 96mm bridges when I get there 👍
Use 96mm! If you do not, should you ever want any 3rd party accessories, like the triangles from TSO, they use 96mm spacing to attach to an MFT-style top with bench dogs. I CNC’d a huge workbench top about 10 years ago ,and put my 20mm holes on 4” centers. Ten years ago it wasn’t real obvious that 96mm centers would make a difference.
To finish MDF I’ve found that stain (if you want a color other than smashed up wood), followed by 3 coats of shellac is perfect. I lightly sand coats 1 & 2 of the shellac. The great thing about using shellac is that your dry time is super fast. Also, I like the smell of shellac which I’m sure is not healthy?
EXCELLENT VIDEO. Good explanation of purpose at the begining so everyone knows what it is you're making and how it works. All good teachers do this, yet do many UA-camrs don't bother or don't seem to appreciate how important it is. Good crisp presentational style with tightly coupled and relevant video. Follow up videos of vice and other table furniture would be well received. Subscribed and 'belled'.
Very nicely done Keith 😁👍. Just an idea for you if you want an extra function. I made some tool box roller cabinets with a pretend MFT style top (smaller than yours), but because the underside was enclosed (torsion box style) I found that by poking the shop vac in one of the holes.... you have an instant vacume table... ideal for holding flat work.. and it works. Just thought I would let you know 😁. You can see them briefly in my shop tour. Keep up the great vids there great 😁👍.
I myself use bit expensive way of making MFT tops. (a beloved and notorious about its price, parf guide system!) But this way is much cheaper and also reasonably accurate. (it seems) One way to be sure that is accurate is so called "5 cut method". You should definitely do that. (Unless you don't want to bother about accuracy)
The only thing I would change is starting the first row at 3" (76mm) on center from the edge. For what I do, this is extremely useful. After that I use 6" OC for the holes.
Thank you for this. I am planning my man cave and didn’t think I could justify a work station like this now I have a project 😀 Looks great and enjoy the honest and real vids. Cheers.
I have never used an MFT table either, but now you show off those accessories, I can see some real benefits. More research needed, I think! Thanks, Craig
Thanks for this video. Have seen other ways to make these but they required expensive kits which make it not affordable for me. This looks affordable to do it this way.
Great tutorial! I have been looking for a good tutorial for drill holes in a grid pattern that is accurate that I can do with existing materials as opposed to expensive fabricated jigs, or shop tools that are very expensive to purchase for a singular project.
Hi Keith, currently planning a new workbench & want to put an MFT top on. A few weeks away from the build but just had a dry run/proof of concept on some scrap. Worked perfectly! Looking forward to cracking on now.
Great detail, very informative and easier to understand as compared to others. 4 mm distance would maybe give you 1 to 2 extra hols in the width or long run of your table top. I like the 100mm as it’s even, less math on ruler. I also like that you used MDF and made it waterproof too. You are very good in the instructions of the how to. Thank you for your time. I did get that drill set too.
He could have got more holes by insetting by 50mm rather than 100mm from each edge. He didn't waterproof the top because he left the inside edges of all the holes unsealed. Also, that water-based sealer is really "sticky" if you leave something clamped up too long. You will have a hell of a time unsticking your work from it if you leave it clamped (or even resting on it) for more than a few days.
That top looks great Kieth. The new shop is looking smart,. I have two squares identical to your combination square. Mine are not true either ! They looked such good quality at the merchants, and were a good well known brand that i thought id buy two. Never mind.
Cheers Oliver. I haven't tried this yet, but I've been meaning to for a long time so may be worth checking out if you haven't seen it ua-cam.com/video/cxrCZd7r6qE/v-deo.html
MDF workbenches are fine. I like it since I just drill and cut straight through it and don’t care. If it gets to bad I’ll replace it. Cheap. It’s also quite flat.
hi rag n bone brown you could cut a notch out of the cross bracing and at leat it would allow you to use some of the accessories that you might need the jig and the mft top is a great job regards
The 96mm distance between holes is designed so the edge of the rail lands between the hole spacing regardless of wether the dogs are anchored under or abutted against the rail.
Very interesting and useful video. Thanks for sharing. The way you made your MFT top is awesome. Some time ago, I wanted to make a small MFT top as well. I did (I used another method) but it was not very exact. It is usable for some things but not for cutting straight or 45 degrees corners. For some time I have another system in my mind which should be far more exact. I did not have time for making it till now. Maybe the upcoming winter.
This is a nice idea and using 100mm spacings is making it far easier. iMAGINE HAVING TO KEEP WORKING ON 96MM PLUS 96MM AND SO ON. It would give a headache to an asprin..
Another project finished and looking great. The hole drilling method was a super tip and so thanks for sharing that. Always a pleasure to see that you have released a new video. Have a great week and best wishes.
Nicely done video ... it seems no matter how many videos I view of a given woodworking subject, I learn something new. Your video is no exception. I really like your approach to solving your design challenges, common sense tends to serve you well. I had to laugh when you realized that you spaced your supports evenly and not how you had originally designed, I did the exact same thing with my bench. I'm sure we shared some common explanatives at the realization of what we had just done. Cheers ...
Excellent video! This could easily be converted to imperial measurements I am sure, which is what we use here in the U.S. I love the accuracy of the table. Here in the U.S. there is a system called the Micro Jig System which uses dovetail clamps and a dovetail router bit. I was looking for a way to make the dovetail cuts accurately and dead on square, and this may just be the answer, so thank you.
Think I would make jig wider then make two holes either end and use them to align jig to top, less measuring and speeds up process. Your method has saved me near two hundred pounds. Could have borrowed Matts parf guide, but he is always drunk now he is living in a tent by the coast 😁. Buying plans for bench as a thanks for all your hard work.
"And that was stupid!"......I cannot begin to count how many times I have said that while in the shop. I think that when we are drawing up our plans in Sketch Up we are very calm and thoughtful...but...when we get out into the shop we are excited and wanting to see progress and less thoughtful. I know this happens to me a lot. Looking forward to seeing what you do with this Keith.
As a lifelong engineer I always check the diagonals as well, it's far more accurate for bigger items. I do have a three foot by four foot steel welded square that is super accurate but took a lot of making.
Agreed - providing the opposing sides of the rectangle are accurately equal, then measuring diagonals is by far the most accurate way of checking for square. Woodworking accuracy is ummm... +/- 1/16" or 1mm, right?
13:14 you can use a wedgem9f wood as a jig to show you the angle. Procede as you do, stop twisting over when the angles match I have a sled on my tablesaw, it's just a few seconds to cut crookedly. a SCMS works too.
I really like this method. My only concern is how you ensured the vertically of the augured 20mm holes? I would think if you were slightly off vertical the dogs either wouldn't fit or they also wouldn't be vertical either. Great video and channel
The pilot hole is square, and will drag the auger bit down - i.e the auger bit will follow the pilot hole. Also, he drills halfway from one side and halfway from the other side, hence reducing the out of square, if any, by half.
@@adrianmack3 Not really what I meant. I know the 5 cut method I would like to see how accurate the table turned out when using it for 90s and 45s with the new accessories.
I think you could use the jigg more when drilling in the work bench? Drill the first row, use the al to locate the second row, then go back and do the same for the third. Now you can use the 2 holes on the top and the bottom, this way you eliminate the risk of measuring wrong between the rowes.
![3 MFT Tops, 3 MFT jigs [Video 498]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/9DhLQPrjnik/mqdefault.jpg)
Hi Keith,
The math is bothering me slightly. Now I understand the 3,4,5 method, but I'm not sure you can just add, multiple and then add to the result in the way you did. I'll repeat what you did using Pythagoras
a² + b² = c²
We want to know c, therefore
c = sqrt(a² + b²)
1) 3²+4²=25
Sqrt(25) = 5
2) you doubled the values
6²+8²=100
Sqrt(100) = 10
3) You multiplied by 100
600²+800² = 1,000,000
Sqrt(1,000,000) = 1000
At this point everything is correct, however simply adding 100 to those values does not work...
700²+900² = 1,300,000
Sqrt(1,300,000) = 1,140.1754
Not 1100
After watching the video back several times, adding 100 is not required as the datum point (x100,y100) can be whatever value you want. As long as you measure from this datum point 600mm in one direction and 800mm perpendicular to it, the 2 points will have a distance of 1000mm (not 1100) if the sides are at 90°.
I still can't figure out how you got 1100.
Hopefully, I've missed something and I'd appreciate if someone could point it out, but I'd hate for someone to make a mistake on something that is intended to be very accurate.
I love your videos, keep up the good work!
He's measuring from the 100mm mark on his tape measure. So 1100 is 1000.
@@JoelPrice253 Yes! I knew I missed something. It was late haha
Yes sorry if I didn't explain it so well 👍
@Stuart Purdue: I had the same doubt, but what he did was not add, but offset by 100mm. Damn, someone already said that...
@@RagnBoneBrown You explained it superbly. Just a miss on Stuart's part.
Hello, I'm a metal worker but same principles apply. I find using dividers to lay out equidistant holes is extremely accurate. In this case absolute accuracy of the holes is not as important as relative accuracy. If the holes are all at 100.01 mm centres it doesn't matter as long as they are all 100.01 mm to achieve square/ straight when jigging/ fixturing. Dividers ensure completely consistent centres. Hope this helps someone. Great build cheers.
Great tip.have dividers but it never occurred to use them before!at least now I'll keep it in my mind!
Good Tip, I was a carpenter for many years and began using dividers to lay out the pickets on a stairway on flat runs, especially if the rail had a radius.
This is a valuable addition to my woodwork collection ua-cam.com/users/postUgkxbnOKZBE4evMO5V2vroHeCjq6d_MV6wJO I still will rate this woodwork plan as the best in my reference library. It always seem to stand out from the rest whenever you go through the library. This is a masterpiece.
As a Festool rep told me, the 96mm on centers was decided on because of the 32mm cabinet frame less metric that is used in Germany and everywhere as a whole.Loved the math lesson and the marking of the top.Seems your jig was spot on.
This is the way 😂
. Most of european cabinets are designed with this rule of 32mm. Hinges fit perfect on this 32mm space. Common handle has a 96cm space between pins...
This is a really excellent video. What came into my mind about the jig for the holes of the mft. If it would be cut a bit wider - e.g. 250 mm instead of 200 mm and you drill two lines of holes (seperated by exactly 100 mm, and the first line 100 mm from the side) you can use it to drill it line by line. But the idea of this jig is really good.
96 mm is a good universal "unit" if I may say. If you divide 96 / 3 = 32 mm, then you can divide 32 mm in half up to 1 mm: 32, 16, 8, 4, 2, 1. Also 96 / 2 = 48, 24, 12, 6, 3. With 100 mm you stop at 100, 50, 25 mm.
Thank you.
Looks to me like it's to maintain compatibility with imperial units. 3mm ~ 1/8" 6mm ~ 1/4" and so on. I don't use imperial units so like the simplicity of 100mm centres. All the best, Rob in Switzerland
@@RobWhittlestone I don’t think it’s very compatible. It’s exactly 25.4mm per inch. Dividing out 96 gives 3.7795 inches. 89mm would be closer at 3.5039 inches and 127mm is exactly 5 inches, but these aren’t very ergonomic to use as both are prime numbers.
If I were choosing a width, I’d go with 108mm which has a lot of great factors: 1, 2, 3, 4, 6, 9, 12, 18, 27, 36, 54, 108 or 120mm which has even better factors: 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 8, 10, 12, 15, 20, 24, 30, 40, 60 and 120
96 mm is used because it’s based on the 32mm increment used in cabinet building.
@@andrewschultz2504 and 32 mm increment is based on...?
I want to thank you for making this video. I followed your instructions and tested it out on an old sheet of underlayment I'm using for clamping/assembly to see if it was any good. I'm quite impressed by the accuracy of this method and I've made multiple test cuts and every time the tolerance is within 0.05 - 0.10 mm and this is really more then enough for my woodworking projects. Thanks again and keep up the good work !
Some great sounds of Ska and Two Tone in the background, which always makes for a great day in the workshop.
I made a perfectly serviceable MFT following your clear and concise your instructions. Thanks! I did center the 20mm holes to 96mm only because I thought there might be jigs out there that are tailored to Festool's specs. Sidenote: I made bench dogs of various heights and purpose on the lathe.
As wood is becoming very expensive and scarce here in Mexico, I'm thinking on using heavy gauge perforated steel angle (such as used for racks and shelves) that, with enough cross bracing, and bolting it to the floor with anchor bolts, could provide great rigidity at the lower base, but the substructure for the top still needs some thinking. Thanks for a great video on how to make the top, and kudos for your 100 mm spacing! What people preferring to buy instead of DIY, is losing, is a great-great-great opportunity to Learn by thinking and designing yourself the project, like you did. One humble suggestion taken from aeromodellers that use Balsawood (that is quite soft): once you drill every hole and before coating with varnish, you can harden the wall of the holes by wetting them with thin (fast curing) Cyano -acrilate glue. The thin glue is absorbed by the MDF (and most woods) and the glue hardens the surface of the wood. Aeromodellers use that trick to harden the threaded holes in Balsa wood that will receive screws, so that the thread in the wood is more resistant. Same here, to better withstand the push of the dogs. Liked, Subscribed and "Belled".
Thanks for clearly describing all of the steps you used to make your MFT style top. Great results. Other makers claim that a spade bit works better, but your auger bit seemed to do the job nicely. I’m also new to using MFT style tops, but I like the flexibility they offer to hold components during cutting & assembly.
I like the way you spell out the reasoning as to why you take any step in the build as you go along!
96 mathematically is a dozen related number. Dozens are nice because they are divisible by 2, 3, 4 and 6 unlike decimals. I’d say that is why Festool selected 96mm. Thanks for the great video!
Kind of fascinating because its a way of using the metric system to behave functionally like the much-lampooned imperial system.
Festool didn’t come up with that. Post WW2 set the 32mm standard when they started mass rebuilding. 96 is just divisible by 32.
Very nice job Keith, and thanks so much for the shout-out and linky-links! One thing I do find the MFT useful for that isn't immediately obvious, is to use the back of the rail as a straight-edge when you're using the Domino for 'inboard' mortices - I talk about the technique a bit in video #182 - and it's a real time-saver, especially when you add in stops and flags on the rail, or even just pencil marks. 👍
Yeah I've seen you do that, will try to bear that in mind as looks really useful 👍
Great video. Can I offer a possible refinement to the process when locating the layout of the holes. The initial row is drilled, then the first hole is used to pivot the guide 90 deg to locate the continued row spacing. This could be repeated on the opposing edge and then you just locate each row by top and bottom hole and drill all those inbetween.
You could pivot the guide on both sides, once each, that way you can use 2 locator pins and stay accurate without measuring.
Doubling the thickness of the guide will also improve the squareness of your drill.
You're correct on both points. However, plumb resulting from the use of this jig is adequate.
Meme Plex. I had that thought too. Once you have a jig, it reduces errors from having to make more measurements - especially if measuring in 100mm increments, rather than absolute 0-(100,200,300,etc)... Incremental errors add up.
John Coloe: Getting all the rows parallel with this method requires very accurate measuring of the free end for every row (absolute measurements is better than incremental), using the Jig to simply spot-drill the 2 long edge rows would remove the need for further measurement. (NB, In favour of your "argument"; even 1mm error at ~800mm (whatever the overall width is) is not significant as far as angle is concerned (asin(1/800) =0.072degrees). Though it will make it more difficult to get fixed dimension fixture "dogs" into the holes (are there any fixtures without adjustable dog spacings??).
Hi Keith,
I keep coming back to your Chanel/Video's for inspiration.
I also am a Newbee and this is only a hobby for me, I started up during to Covid period, I needed some sort of hobby to take my mind off the stresses of work.... well here I am several thousand euros later with a small workshop with a few tools. I love the way you manage to turn an expensive idea, like Peters Festool Table, into something I can play with and not have to spend more money on.
Keep up the good work and thanks for inspiring me and keeping me occupied over the past 3 to 4 months.
The Festool spacing of 96 is 3 x 32. 32mm is the standard spacing in line boreing machines
It's also a multiple of the most common 16mm MDF and chipboard that in EU en the rest of the world from which cabinets are made. Thus the 96mm works towards the spacing for stacking multi layers of the 16mm stuff
Economical option to the commercial expensive alternatives. I almost ordered one from you know where, but this video changed my mind and saved me money for other necessary tools. Thanks!
there is a company called cnc design, never used them as yet but I am thinking of doing, anyway they make the mft tops but only the one size to fit the crazy price "F......tool.
you can buy templates to use with a router for around £30 now and they are very accurate and means you can make many tops at whatever size you need, if I was making an MFT top I would want it to be more accurate than this version.
I used your method to make an MFT top. Thank you so much for this clear and concise video. The top didn't turn out perfectly (maybe half a millimeter off in some places, but no compounding errors), even though I used a drill press and measured carefully -- but it's close enough for all the work I do, and a huge improvement to the workshop. Thanks again!
You've made quite a daunting task seem more achievable with clear instructions, tips and tricks! I've not found another video explaining this build as good as you. Thanks for sharing!
Probably the best video on making a workbench top I've seen. Thanks!
I have been looking to see how I could add dog holes to a workbench I have just built. This is a great video showing how it can be done without spending a lot of money. Thank you.
This is an extremely creative way to make an MFT table on a budget. Brilliant!
I've tried doing some looking, and it looks like the 96mm spacing comes from Festool basing a lot of their systems on 32mm, which apparently comes from European cabinet making using 32mm spacing as a base for shelf pins, if not most measurements of cabinets.
Apparently this comes from the post-WW2 move from adjustable rails for shelving to pins for shelving, due to scarcity of steel at the time and moving to dowel pins, which also took multiple style variations and condensed it into a singular, standardized system; which also made production easier to handle, as you only need a single type of production line in factories, thus making factories more productive by design. 32mm happened to be what most readily available helical gears, that could also handle the torque needed without breaking, had between centers, which were used in a multi-spindle drilling setup. Very economical solution that used tooling that was already available, if history was different and had used larger or smaller gear spacing, we wouldn't be using 32mm as a base spacing today.
I believe it's also because 96 is nicely divisible by more numbers than 100, so for example if you want to use offset holes, you can divide by 2 (48), 3 (32), 4 (24) etc very easily. 100 divides by 2 easily but not by 3 so well. Just a thought.
I've tried doing repeated cuts like this and never been successful. I've always ended up frustrated and giving up. Thanks for sharing this, I'll try your way next time. Keep the videos coming, Keith, I really enjoy your honesty, skill and sense of humour. To my mind you've yet to do a dud and, looking back to the early ones, it's interesting to see how you've developed as a presenter/director as well as a woodworker. Cheers mate.
Thank you!
I am about to build my own workshop and your video has helped me very much. Thank you 👍
I might be 4 years late to the party but wanted to thank you for this!
While I am a total Peter of Brit Workshop fanboy and really admire the thinking behind and engineering involved in the parf guide system, I just can't justify the financial outlay for it and have been looking for a viable alternative approach. I really like yours 👍
The only comment I would make to yours is that I would have liked to have seen some more rigorous accuracy testing and maybe in various positions over the table. Maybe even a 5-cut torture test LOL ;)
Thank you again!
I've researched the spacing as well and it may not matter, but 100mm math gives 100/50/25/fractions. 96mm gives 96/48/24/12/6/3/fractions. The MFT table is new to me, but I can already see some real advantages. Nice video!
I do daily work with an MFT lookalike table. It isn't really a problem if a hole is blocked. If those wooden pieces beneath the table shift 5cm so they won't block the holes, it's hard to use clamps underneath. Now you just shift a hole, but you can still use the holes for inserts. In my opinion it doesn't really matter, you gotta give some or take some in either situation basically.
I don't use my table to cut wood on, I only use it for building, assembling stuff. I made a couple of jiggs specifically for the work I do. Just get some 19 or 20mm wooden plugs. Works like a charm.
Enjoy your table!
Your square testing methods for both the mirror equipment and the 3 4 5 method have me subscribing!!
Keith, your set square that is no longer square can be adjusted, if you remove the ruler, there will be 2 small pieces of metal that the ruler rests against. A little bit of filling on the back one (looking at you test lines) should bring it back into square
I would if I had a file small enough. John Heisz actually used the ruler itself to adjust his! Something I've been meaning to try : ua-cam.com/video/cxrCZd7r6qE/v-deo.html
@@RagnBoneBrown excellent idea, and ideal opportunity for you know!
I've just 3d printed a jig that I'm going to use to create mine later next week. Have to see if it works!
Looks like it worked. I would like to see a method using a plunge router though. One could use an edge guide and/or the track attachment for the router. Clean perpendicular holes.
The screw-holes in the Bench Dogs brand rail Square attach dogs to it in such a manner that it holds square to your table if you stuff them into your 96 mm holes. That's the only attachment I know of which requires the 96mm spacing, but it does exist.
That awl-pivot was masterful
nice idea with the sideways parallel clamp I have never thought to do that before. I will have to try it on mine sometime.
Very simple idea well done. If you had either offset the line of 4mm holes to one side instead of cantering them you could have drilled an extra pair at each end 100mm away from the main line so that you could then index the next line of holes off the previous one and avoid introducing any error in measuring the distance for the edge of the board.
I was thinking the same thing, then it occurred to me that accurately place those two holes perpendicular to the jig full row could be difficult since your offset would only be 100mm. Over multiple rows getting laid out you could easily introduce a significant skew even though each of the rows would still be in parallel. I think creating a perpendicular row off each end hole of the first row, and then using those two parallel rows to span with the jig for proper alignment would work better
Thank you for posting this video. My experience with the table that I built is that the 90 degree accuracy was not that great as time went by.
A better system than festool MFT table is to switch to a completely xy linear system. It is super accurate as you will be using the same components as real CNC but the z axix will never be as accurate as CNC because the top is not accurate.
Frankly, I got tired of replacing the edge on festool guides and sometines the edge is not as good as I expected to be. Festool said this is caused by untuned saw and that I am pusging the saw from wrong angle.
Excellent! I've been looking for a DIY method for making an MFT top that didn't involve buying a ridiculously expensive jig. Thank you for sharing such detailed instructions!
I was really looking forward to seeing this video as I've just recently cut a mft style worktop with the parf guide. Aside from your additional setup, the time you need to drill and then bore out the holes is the same. The accuracy seems no less precise in your approach so I think you've proved a guide is not necessary. That said it's important that everyone realises that the accuracy of.the jig is crucial and you explained well the need to check and check again as you go. Anyway thanks for sharing an inlook forward to what you do next with it.
Thanks Karl, good to get some feedback on this one as I was a little bit unsure as to how it'd go down! Thanks
@@RagnBoneBrown Would a pair of 'large' dividers help with the 100mm layout?
Great stuff! i've been watching for a few years now and this video is one of the best you've done! Fantastic idea, explained very well! I was put off the bought systems (mainly because of price) but also because the instructions made it out to be a very complicated process and for those who stuggle with maths, it seemed a little overwelming. This however is as simple as drilling some very accurate holes in a bit of wood. Keeping it simple is always the best! Keep up the good work, you've helped a lot of guys who would never have been able to afford a festool MFT or drilling guide system!
Nice simple jig. I would like to share this other little trick if you have the CAD model anyway. Paper templates. I have had success with setting out of the hole positions using a 1:1 scale paper plot, drawn in fusion 360. Print on a large format plotter fairly inexpensive or free when you know an architect. You can just tape or lightly spray glue the paper very precisely to the surface and use pins to mark all of the centers. Basically, you are free from doing any measuring as the centers are computer generated and you can print to a very high level of accuracy. Then it just depends on your drilling method as to how to maintain a vertical pilot hole. It is like having a really basic CNC without actually having the machine. You can then also change the pattern to another layout if needed. Have a great weekend.
I Like that idea a lot my thought would be to print out the array of holes on an A3 sheet. drill the 20mm (+ router collar) holes in that as a template then route out the holes in the work top. you can then reuse the template over the whole area of the work surface and on subsequent work surfaces using the dowels to hold the template in place.
still you have to be so accurate when making the holes, our guy using a drill , he must be the only one in the world who can drill at 90 degrees perfect. I know I am not so the dogs wont be quite right and hence cuts wont be at right angles
Thank you for the videos! In case you're not aware, you can probably adjust your combination square using a needle file.
96 mm is based on the 32 mm hole spacing for multi spindle drill jigs (32 mm having been the smallest space available at the time of designing the system).
Excellent solution to something that I'm facing as I write this. Thank you.
Someone may have already brought this up but the thought struck me that after you drill the first row of holes and pivot the jig 90 degrees to drill the first perpendicular column to it, one could return the jig to its original position, pin the jig on its other end, then rotate the jig 90 degrees and you can drill a third column of holes parallel to the second batch. You now can move the jig parallel to the first row of holes, pin each end to the two parallel columns, It seems to me this method would reduce the potential error of measuring each subsequent row.
Am I missing anything??
made quite a few of these over the years. use a sheet of pegboard to set out your holes push a 5mm spur bit through to mark the holes, so much easier and if you can use a forstner bit in your router at slow speed to cut the holes alternatively buy a cheap drill press to do it. The 96mm is 3 x 32mm which is an industry standard many handles and cabinet dowels/pin outs are set to this. Its a left over from post WW2 utility furniture for some reason they picked 1 1/4" (32mm) for the multi head drilling machines of the time
96 mm spacing is because it's 3 x 32 mm, which is the grid for cabinets, shelving and hinges but that's the only reason I can think of.
It allows you to use the Festool LR32 Hole Drilling System and rails to drill the MFT top holes.
@@dsdragoon Also true.
Glenn Storey That’s the reason for the 96 mm spacing which is also the reason the LR32 size as well, it’s all based on 32 mm cabinet system!
I have been wanting one of these for ages but just couldn't justify the cost. This is a great option and I have all the bits lying around so very nearly free. Also, easy to custom size to suit the room. Thanks for posting.
I recently built a new workbench and have been saving up for the UK Parf Guide system jig... No more! Thanks Keith, I'll be doing this myself now 👏. Also thanks for doing the research into 96mm vs 100mm spacing, I was coming to the same conclusion but thought I must be missing something. I too have never actually used an MFT so I'm going with 100mm and crossing any 96mm bridges when I get there 👍
Use 96mm! If you do not, should you ever want any 3rd party accessories, like the triangles from TSO, they use 96mm spacing to attach to an MFT-style top with bench dogs. I CNC’d a huge workbench top about 10 years ago ,and put my 20mm holes on 4” centers. Ten years ago it wasn’t real obvious that 96mm centers would make a difference.
To finish MDF I’ve found that stain (if you want a color other than smashed up wood), followed by 3 coats of shellac is perfect. I lightly sand coats 1 & 2 of the shellac.
The great thing about using shellac is that your dry time is super fast. Also, I like the smell of shellac which I’m sure is not healthy?
Nice background music in the workshop. Very Special
EXCELLENT VIDEO.
Good explanation of purpose at the begining so everyone knows what it is you're making and how it works.
All good teachers do this, yet do many UA-camrs don't bother or don't seem to appreciate how important it is.
Good crisp presentational style with tightly coupled and relevant video.
Follow up videos of vice and other table furniture would be well received.
Subscribed and 'belled'.
Very nicely done Keith 😁👍. Just an idea for you if you want an extra function. I made some tool box roller cabinets with a pretend MFT style top (smaller than yours), but because the underside was enclosed (torsion box style) I found that by poking the shop vac in one of the holes.... you have an instant vacume table... ideal for holding flat work.. and it works. Just thought I would let you know 😁. You can see them briefly in my shop tour. Keep up the great vids there great 😁👍.
I myself use bit expensive way of making MFT tops. (a beloved and notorious about its price, parf guide system!) But this way is much cheaper and also reasonably accurate. (it seems)
One way to be sure that is accurate is so called "5 cut method". You should definitely do that. (Unless you don't want to bother about accuracy)
The only thing I would change is starting the first row at 3" (76mm) on center from the edge. For what I do, this is extremely useful. After that I use 6" OC for the holes.
Thank you for this. I am planning my man cave and didn’t think I could justify a work station like this now I have a project 😀 Looks great and enjoy the honest and real vids. Cheers.
Great watch, really enjoyed it. Any rethinks 2 years on? Planning a work bench but can decide if this will work for me.
I have never used an MFT table either, but now you show off those accessories, I can see some real benefits. More research needed, I think! Thanks, Craig
Thanks for this video. Have seen other ways to make these but they required expensive kits which make it not affordable for me. This looks affordable to do it this way.
Great tutorial! I have been looking for a good tutorial for drill holes in a grid pattern that is accurate that I can do with existing materials as opposed to expensive fabricated jigs, or shop tools that are very expensive to purchase for a singular project.
Hi Keith, currently planning a new workbench & want to put an MFT top on. A few weeks away from the build but just had a dry run/proof of concept on some scrap. Worked perfectly! Looking forward to cracking on now.
Great detail, very informative and easier to understand as compared to others. 4 mm distance would maybe give you 1 to 2 extra hols in the width or long run of your table top. I like the 100mm as it’s even, less math on ruler. I also like that you used MDF and made it waterproof too. You are very good in the instructions of the how to. Thank you for your time. I did get that drill set too.
He could have got more holes by insetting by 50mm rather than 100mm from each edge.
He didn't waterproof the top because he left the inside edges of all the holes unsealed.
Also, that water-based sealer is really "sticky" if you leave something clamped up too long. You will have a hell of a time unsticking your work from it if you leave it clamped (or even resting on it) for more than a few days.
Great video Keith thanks for posting, love my Benchdogs kit, well made precise and made right here in England! Hope you're well keep 'em coming
I really enjoy your thorough yet understandable explanations and admire your work methods.
That top looks great Kieth. The new shop is looking smart,. I have two squares identical to your combination square. Mine are not true either ! They looked such good quality at the merchants, and were a good well known brand that i thought id buy two. Never mind.
Cheers Oliver. I haven't tried this yet, but I've been meaning to for a long time so may be worth checking out if you haven't seen it ua-cam.com/video/cxrCZd7r6qE/v-deo.html
Great stuff, appreciate your sharing and the alternative to something like the BIG DOLLAR: PARF guide.
The 96 mm centers is based on the 32mm rule Sedge talks about in some of his videos.
A job well done , a nice project and well exicuted Keith.
MDF workbenches are fine. I like it since I just drill and cut straight through it and don’t care. If it gets to bad I’ll replace it. Cheap. It’s also quite flat.
I was a bit bored until I really saw what you were doing with your jig. This is fucking brilliant and repeatable. Nice.
hi rag n bone brown
you could cut a notch out of the cross bracing and at leat it would allow you to use some of the accessories
that you might need the jig and the mft top is a great job
regards
The 96mm distance between holes is designed so the edge of the rail lands between the hole spacing regardless of wether the dogs are anchored under or abutted against the rail.
Very interesting and useful video. Thanks for sharing. The way you made your MFT top is awesome. Some time ago, I wanted to make a small MFT top as well.
I did (I used another method) but it was not very exact. It is usable for some things but not for cutting straight or 45 degrees corners.
For some time I have another system in my mind which should be far more exact. I did not have time for making it till now. Maybe the upcoming winter.
Could you please give us a follow up video on this table build? Tell us how your method worked and what, if any, problems that you had...
This is a nice idea and using 100mm spacings is making it far easier. iMAGINE HAVING TO KEEP WORKING ON 96MM PLUS 96MM AND SO ON.
It would give a headache to an asprin..
Another project finished and looking great. The hole drilling method was a super tip and so thanks for sharing that. Always a pleasure to see that you have released a new video. Have a great week and best wishes.
Nicely done video ... it seems no matter how many videos I view of a given woodworking subject, I learn something new. Your video is no exception. I really like your approach to solving your design challenges, common sense tends to serve you well. I had to laugh when you realized that you spaced your supports evenly and not how you had originally designed, I did the exact same thing with my bench. I'm sure we shared some common explanatives at the realization of what we had just done. Cheers ...
And you build your own Parf System... using a piece of wood... 😀!
Very nice!.... lovely!.... great lesson!
Thxs!
Excellent video! This could easily be converted to imperial measurements I am sure, which is what we use here in the U.S. I love the accuracy of the table. Here in the U.S. there is a system called the Micro Jig System which uses dovetail clamps and a dovetail router bit. I was looking for a way to make the dovetail cuts accurately and dead on square, and this may just be the answer, so thank you.
Your videos are always paso easy to follow and full of detail. Great ideas in this build. Thanks for sharing. Andy UK
Wow, what a clear and precise explanation. A superb solution for us without deep pockets. Nice one Keith
Thanks Stephen - means a lot coming from you
Nice video. You’ve got me intrigued with the table.
Joining to pieces of wood lengthwise like that is called a scarf joint, not a miter. A miter is only the corner joint.
Good work Keith. You've created a lot of capability there for minimal cost.
Great work. I would suggest that you could use a couple of 4mm drill bits to locate in the jig holes.
Think I would make jig wider then make two holes either end and use them to align jig to top, less measuring and speeds up process. Your method has saved me near two hundred pounds. Could have borrowed Matts parf guide, but he is always drunk now he is living in a tent by the coast 😁. Buying plans for bench as a thanks for all your hard work.
Thank you!!
Hi Avery useful video and well explained. I shall look forward to making my own MFT. Many thanks, Phil
Enjoyable video Keith and fair play to anyone who can admit to a mistake well done mate
Honestly never knew the 3 4 5 rule worked on metric as well. Thanks. Knowledge is power.
Great video!! Very well explained and inexpensive for most people. It’s always disheartening when someone fires up the CNC to make their top lol.
Great work! I need to build an MFT table. I'll make this a winter project.
"And that was stupid!"......I cannot begin to count how many times I have said that while in the shop. I think that when we are drawing up our plans in Sketch Up we are very calm and thoughtful...but...when we get out into the shop we are excited and wanting to see progress and less thoughtful. I know this happens to me a lot. Looking forward to seeing what you do with this Keith.
Thank you!
Really helpful video. Clear instructions that do not require a huge spend. THANKS!!!
As a lifelong engineer I always check the diagonals as well, it's far more accurate for bigger items. I do have a three foot by four foot steel welded square that is super accurate but took a lot of making.
Agreed - providing the opposing sides of the rectangle are accurately equal, then measuring diagonals is by far the most accurate way of checking for square.
Woodworking accuracy is ummm... +/- 1/16" or 1mm, right?
13:14 you can use a wedgem9f wood as a jig to show you the angle. Procede as you do, stop twisting over when the angles match I have a sled on my tablesaw, it's just a few seconds to cut crookedly. a SCMS works too.
I really like this method. My only concern is how you ensured the vertically of the augured 20mm holes? I would think if you were slightly off vertical the dogs either wouldn't fit or they also wouldn't be vertical either. Great video and channel
I had the same concern. If dogs are being used to square up a workpiece, off-plumb holes will result in off square cuts.
The pilot hole is square, and will drag the auger bit down - i.e the auger bit will follow the pilot hole. Also, he drills halfway from one side and halfway from the other side, hence reducing the out of square, if any, by half.
He also mentioned the holes in the jig were made on the drill press to make sure they were vertical.
Would love to accuracy tests in the next vid. You took great care in your measurements and it would be great to see the results
I'm not sure how I would test it. I do like the idea of testing it, but to be honest I'm satisfied that it's accurate enough for my liking anyway.
Watch one of Peters video where he does a 5 cut test to show accuracy, repeat that process and you can see how well you did in comparison.
@@adrianmack3 Not really what I meant. I know the 5 cut method I would like to see how accurate the table turned out when using it for 90s and 45s with the new accessories.
I think you could use the jigg more when drilling in the work bench? Drill the first row, use the al to locate the second row, then go back and do the same for the third. Now you can use the 2 holes on the top and the bottom, this way you eliminate the risk of measuring wrong between the rowes.
Excellent accuracy and attention to detail in all your work.