Hi Keith, The math is bothering me slightly. Now I understand the 3,4,5 method, but I'm not sure you can just add, multiple and then add to the result in the way you did. I'll repeat what you did using Pythagoras a² + b² = c² We want to know c, therefore c = sqrt(a² + b²) 1) 3²+4²=25 Sqrt(25) = 5 2) you doubled the values 6²+8²=100 Sqrt(100) = 10 3) You multiplied by 100 600²+800² = 1,000,000 Sqrt(1,000,000) = 1000 At this point everything is correct, however simply adding 100 to those values does not work... 700²+900² = 1,300,000 Sqrt(1,300,000) = 1,140.1754 Not 1100 After watching the video back several times, adding 100 is not required as the datum point (x100,y100) can be whatever value you want. As long as you measure from this datum point 600mm in one direction and 800mm perpendicular to it, the 2 points will have a distance of 1000mm (not 1100) if the sides are at 90°. I still can't figure out how you got 1100. Hopefully, I've missed something and I'd appreciate if someone could point it out, but I'd hate for someone to make a mistake on something that is intended to be very accurate. I love your videos, keep up the good work!
Hello, I'm a metal worker but same principles apply. I find using dividers to lay out equidistant holes is extremely accurate. In this case absolute accuracy of the holes is not as important as relative accuracy. If the holes are all at 100.01 mm centres it doesn't matter as long as they are all 100.01 mm to achieve square/ straight when jigging/ fixturing. Dividers ensure completely consistent centres. Hope this helps someone. Great build cheers.
Good Tip, I was a carpenter for many years and began using dividers to lay out the pickets on a stairway on flat runs, especially if the rail had a radius.
I want to thank you for making this video. I followed your instructions and tested it out on an old sheet of underlayment I'm using for clamping/assembly to see if it was any good. I'm quite impressed by the accuracy of this method and I've made multiple test cuts and every time the tolerance is within 0.05 - 0.10 mm and this is really more then enough for my woodworking projects. Thanks again and keep up the good work !
This is a really excellent video. What came into my mind about the jig for the holes of the mft. If it would be cut a bit wider - e.g. 250 mm instead of 200 mm and you drill two lines of holes (seperated by exactly 100 mm, and the first line 100 mm from the side) you can use it to drill it line by line. But the idea of this jig is really good.
Hi Keith, I keep coming back to your Chanel/Video's for inspiration. I also am a Newbee and this is only a hobby for me, I started up during to Covid period, I needed some sort of hobby to take my mind off the stresses of work.... well here I am several thousand euros later with a small workshop with a few tools. I love the way you manage to turn an expensive idea, like Peters Festool Table, into something I can play with and not have to spend more money on. Keep up the good work and thanks for inspiring me and keeping me occupied over the past 3 to 4 months.
As a Festool rep told me, the 96mm on centers was decided on because of the 32mm cabinet frame less metric that is used in Germany and everywhere as a whole.Loved the math lesson and the marking of the top.Seems your jig was spot on.
This is the way 😂 . Most of european cabinets are designed with this rule of 32mm. Hinges fit perfect on this 32mm space. Common handle has a 96cm space between pins...
96 mm is a good universal "unit" if I may say. If you divide 96 / 3 = 32 mm, then you can divide 32 mm in half up to 1 mm: 32, 16, 8, 4, 2, 1. Also 96 / 2 = 48, 24, 12, 6, 3. With 100 mm you stop at 100, 50, 25 mm.
Looks to me like it's to maintain compatibility with imperial units. 3mm ~ 1/8" 6mm ~ 1/4" and so on. I don't use imperial units so like the simplicity of 100mm centres. All the best, Rob in Switzerland
@@RobWhittlestone I don’t think it’s very compatible. It’s exactly 25.4mm per inch. Dividing out 96 gives 3.7795 inches. 89mm would be closer at 3.5039 inches and 127mm is exactly 5 inches, but these aren’t very ergonomic to use as both are prime numbers. If I were choosing a width, I’d go with 108mm which has a lot of great factors: 1, 2, 3, 4, 6, 9, 12, 18, 27, 36, 54, 108 or 120mm which has even better factors: 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 8, 10, 12, 15, 20, 24, 30, 40, 60 and 120
I made a perfectly serviceable MFT following your clear and concise your instructions. Thanks! I did center the 20mm holes to 96mm only because I thought there might be jigs out there that are tailored to Festool's specs. Sidenote: I made bench dogs of various heights and purpose on the lathe.
As wood is becoming very expensive and scarce here in Mexico, I'm thinking on using heavy gauge perforated steel angle (such as used for racks and shelves) that, with enough cross bracing, and bolting it to the floor with anchor bolts, could provide great rigidity at the lower base, but the substructure for the top still needs some thinking. Thanks for a great video on how to make the top, and kudos for your 100 mm spacing! What people preferring to buy instead of DIY, is losing, is a great-great-great opportunity to Learn by thinking and designing yourself the project, like you did. One humble suggestion taken from aeromodellers that use Balsawood (that is quite soft): once you drill every hole and before coating with varnish, you can harden the wall of the holes by wetting them with thin (fast curing) Cyano -acrilate glue. The thin glue is absorbed by the MDF (and most woods) and the glue hardens the surface of the wood. Aeromodellers use that trick to harden the threaded holes in Balsa wood that will receive screws, so that the thread in the wood is more resistant. Same here, to better withstand the push of the dogs. Liked, Subscribed and "Belled".
Very nice job Keith, and thanks so much for the shout-out and linky-links! One thing I do find the MFT useful for that isn't immediately obvious, is to use the back of the rail as a straight-edge when you're using the Domino for 'inboard' mortices - I talk about the technique a bit in video #182 - and it's a real time-saver, especially when you add in stops and flags on the rail, or even just pencil marks. 👍
Great video. Can I offer a possible refinement to the process when locating the layout of the holes. The initial row is drilled, then the first hole is used to pivot the guide 90 deg to locate the continued row spacing. This could be repeated on the opposing edge and then you just locate each row by top and bottom hole and drill all those inbetween.
It's also a multiple of the most common 16mm MDF and chipboard that in EU en the rest of the world from which cabinets are made. Thus the 96mm works towards the spacing for stacking multi layers of the 16mm stuff
Thanks for clearly describing all of the steps you used to make your MFT style top. Great results. Other makers claim that a spade bit works better, but your auger bit seemed to do the job nicely. I’m also new to using MFT style tops, but I like the flexibility they offer to hold components during cutting & assembly.
You could pivot the guide on both sides, once each, that way you can use 2 locator pins and stay accurate without measuring. Doubling the thickness of the guide will also improve the squareness of your drill.
Meme Plex. I had that thought too. Once you have a jig, it reduces errors from having to make more measurements - especially if measuring in 100mm increments, rather than absolute 0-(100,200,300,etc)... Incremental errors add up. John Coloe: Getting all the rows parallel with this method requires very accurate measuring of the free end for every row (absolute measurements is better than incremental), using the Jig to simply spot-drill the 2 long edge rows would remove the need for further measurement. (NB, In favour of your "argument"; even 1mm error at ~800mm (whatever the overall width is) is not significant as far as angle is concerned (asin(1/800) =0.072degrees). Though it will make it more difficult to get fixed dimension fixture "dogs" into the holes (are there any fixtures without adjustable dog spacings??).
96 mathematically is a dozen related number. Dozens are nice because they are divisible by 2, 3, 4 and 6 unlike decimals. I’d say that is why Festool selected 96mm. Thanks for the great video!
Economical option to the commercial expensive alternatives. I almost ordered one from you know where, but this video changed my mind and saved me money for other necessary tools. Thanks!
there is a company called cnc design, never used them as yet but I am thinking of doing, anyway they make the mft tops but only the one size to fit the crazy price "F......tool.
you can buy templates to use with a router for around £30 now and they are very accurate and means you can make many tops at whatever size you need, if I was making an MFT top I would want it to be more accurate than this version.
You've made quite a daunting task seem more achievable with clear instructions, tips and tricks! I've not found another video explaining this build as good as you. Thanks for sharing!
Great stuff! i've been watching for a few years now and this video is one of the best you've done! Fantastic idea, explained very well! I was put off the bought systems (mainly because of price) but also because the instructions made it out to be a very complicated process and for those who stuggle with maths, it seemed a little overwelming. This however is as simple as drilling some very accurate holes in a bit of wood. Keeping it simple is always the best! Keep up the good work, you've helped a lot of guys who would never have been able to afford a festool MFT or drilling guide system!
I've tried doing repeated cuts like this and never been successful. I've always ended up frustrated and giving up. Thanks for sharing this, I'll try your way next time. Keep the videos coming, Keith, I really enjoy your honesty, skill and sense of humour. To my mind you've yet to do a dud and, looking back to the early ones, it's interesting to see how you've developed as a presenter/director as well as a woodworker. Cheers mate.
Excellent solution to something that I'm facing as I write this. Thank you. Someone may have already brought this up but the thought struck me that after you drill the first row of holes and pivot the jig 90 degrees to drill the first perpendicular column to it, one could return the jig to its original position, pin the jig on its other end, then rotate the jig 90 degrees and you can drill a third column of holes parallel to the second batch. You now can move the jig parallel to the first row of holes, pin each end to the two parallel columns, It seems to me this method would reduce the potential error of measuring each subsequent row. Am I missing anything??
I have been looking to see how I could add dog holes to a workbench I have just built. This is a great video showing how it can be done without spending a lot of money. Thank you.
I used your method to make an MFT top. Thank you so much for this clear and concise video. The top didn't turn out perfectly (maybe half a millimeter off in some places, but no compounding errors), even though I used a drill press and measured carefully -- but it's close enough for all the work I do, and a huge improvement to the workshop. Thanks again!
I might be 4 years late to the party but wanted to thank you for this! While I am a total Peter of Brit Workshop fanboy and really admire the thinking behind and engineering involved in the parf guide system, I just can't justify the financial outlay for it and have been looking for a viable alternative approach. I really like yours 👍 The only comment I would make to yours is that I would have liked to have seen some more rigorous accuracy testing and maybe in various positions over the table. Maybe even a 5-cut torture test LOL ;) Thank you again!
I've researched the spacing as well and it may not matter, but 100mm math gives 100/50/25/fractions. 96mm gives 96/48/24/12/6/3/fractions. The MFT table is new to me, but I can already see some real advantages. Nice video!
Keith, your set square that is no longer square can be adjusted, if you remove the ruler, there will be 2 small pieces of metal that the ruler rests against. A little bit of filling on the back one (looking at you test lines) should bring it back into square
I would if I had a file small enough. John Heisz actually used the ruler itself to adjust his! Something I've been meaning to try : ua-cam.com/video/cxrCZd7r6qE/v-deo.html
Excellent! I've been looking for a DIY method for making an MFT top that didn't involve buying a ridiculously expensive jig. Thank you for sharing such detailed instructions!
EXCELLENT VIDEO. Good explanation of purpose at the begining so everyone knows what it is you're making and how it works. All good teachers do this, yet do many UA-camrs don't bother or don't seem to appreciate how important it is. Good crisp presentational style with tightly coupled and relevant video. Follow up videos of vice and other table furniture would be well received. Subscribed and 'belled'.
Looks like it worked. I would like to see a method using a plunge router though. One could use an edge guide and/or the track attachment for the router. Clean perpendicular holes.
To finish MDF I’ve found that stain (if you want a color other than smashed up wood), followed by 3 coats of shellac is perfect. I lightly sand coats 1 & 2 of the shellac. The great thing about using shellac is that your dry time is super fast. Also, I like the smell of shellac which I’m sure is not healthy?
Very interesting and useful video. Thanks for sharing. The way you made your MFT top is awesome. Some time ago, I wanted to make a small MFT top as well. I did (I used another method) but it was not very exact. It is usable for some things but not for cutting straight or 45 degrees corners. For some time I have another system in my mind which should be far more exact. I did not have time for making it till now. Maybe the upcoming winter.
That top looks great Kieth. The new shop is looking smart,. I have two squares identical to your combination square. Mine are not true either ! They looked such good quality at the merchants, and were a good well known brand that i thought id buy two. Never mind.
Cheers Oliver. I haven't tried this yet, but I've been meaning to for a long time so may be worth checking out if you haven't seen it ua-cam.com/video/cxrCZd7r6qE/v-deo.html
I really like this method. My only concern is how you ensured the vertically of the augured 20mm holes? I would think if you were slightly off vertical the dogs either wouldn't fit or they also wouldn't be vertical either. Great video and channel
The pilot hole is square, and will drag the auger bit down - i.e the auger bit will follow the pilot hole. Also, he drills halfway from one side and halfway from the other side, hence reducing the out of square, if any, by half.
I was really looking forward to seeing this video as I've just recently cut a mft style worktop with the parf guide. Aside from your additional setup, the time you need to drill and then bore out the holes is the same. The accuracy seems no less precise in your approach so I think you've proved a guide is not necessary. That said it's important that everyone realises that the accuracy of.the jig is crucial and you explained well the need to check and check again as you go. Anyway thanks for sharing an inlook forward to what you do next with it.
13:14 you can use a wedgem9f wood as a jig to show you the angle. Procede as you do, stop twisting over when the angles match I have a sled on my tablesaw, it's just a few seconds to cut crookedly. a SCMS works too.
Great tutorial! I have been looking for a good tutorial for drill holes in a grid pattern that is accurate that I can do with existing materials as opposed to expensive fabricated jigs, or shop tools that are very expensive to purchase for a singular project.
I've tried doing some looking, and it looks like the 96mm spacing comes from Festool basing a lot of their systems on 32mm, which apparently comes from European cabinet making using 32mm spacing as a base for shelf pins, if not most measurements of cabinets. Apparently this comes from the post-WW2 move from adjustable rails for shelving to pins for shelving, due to scarcity of steel at the time and moving to dowel pins, which also took multiple style variations and condensed it into a singular, standardized system; which also made production easier to handle, as you only need a single type of production line in factories, thus making factories more productive by design. 32mm happened to be what most readily available helical gears, that could also handle the torque needed without breaking, had between centers, which were used in a multi-spindle drilling setup. Very economical solution that used tooling that was already available, if history was different and had used larger or smaller gear spacing, we wouldn't be using 32mm as a base spacing today.
I believe it's also because 96 is nicely divisible by more numbers than 100, so for example if you want to use offset holes, you can divide by 2 (48), 3 (32), 4 (24) etc very easily. 100 divides by 2 easily but not by 3 so well. Just a thought.
Another project finished and looking great. The hole drilling method was a super tip and so thanks for sharing that. Always a pleasure to see that you have released a new video. Have a great week and best wishes.
Thank you for this. I am planning my man cave and didn’t think I could justify a work station like this now I have a project 😀 Looks great and enjoy the honest and real vids. Cheers.
Nicely done video ... it seems no matter how many videos I view of a given woodworking subject, I learn something new. Your video is no exception. I really like your approach to solving your design challenges, common sense tends to serve you well. I had to laugh when you realized that you spaced your supports evenly and not how you had originally designed, I did the exact same thing with my bench. I'm sure we shared some common explanatives at the realization of what we had just done. Cheers ...
Hi Keith, currently planning a new workbench & want to put an MFT top on. A few weeks away from the build but just had a dry run/proof of concept on some scrap. Worked perfectly! Looking forward to cracking on now.
96 mm is based on the 32 mm hole spacing for multi spindle drill jigs (32 mm having been the smallest space available at the time of designing the system).
Very simple idea well done. If you had either offset the line of 4mm holes to one side instead of cantering them you could have drilled an extra pair at each end 100mm away from the main line so that you could then index the next line of holes off the previous one and avoid introducing any error in measuring the distance for the edge of the board.
I was thinking the same thing, then it occurred to me that accurately place those two holes perpendicular to the jig full row could be difficult since your offset would only be 100mm. Over multiple rows getting laid out you could easily introduce a significant skew even though each of the rows would still be in parallel. I think creating a perpendicular row off each end hole of the first row, and then using those two parallel rows to span with the jig for proper alignment would work better
This is a valuable addition to my woodwork collection ua-cam.com/users/postUgkxbnOKZBE4evMO5V2vroHeCjq6d_MV6wJO I still will rate this woodwork plan as the best in my reference library. It always seem to stand out from the rest whenever you go through the library. This is a masterpiece.
Great detail, very informative and easier to understand as compared to others. 4 mm distance would maybe give you 1 to 2 extra hols in the width or long run of your table top. I like the 100mm as it’s even, less math on ruler. I also like that you used MDF and made it waterproof too. You are very good in the instructions of the how to. Thank you for your time. I did get that drill set too.
He could have got more holes by insetting by 50mm rather than 100mm from each edge. He didn't waterproof the top because he left the inside edges of all the holes unsealed. Also, that water-based sealer is really "sticky" if you leave something clamped up too long. You will have a hell of a time unsticking your work from it if you leave it clamped (or even resting on it) for more than a few days.
The screw-holes in the Bench Dogs brand rail Square attach dogs to it in such a manner that it holds square to your table if you stuff them into your 96 mm holes. That's the only attachment I know of which requires the 96mm spacing, but it does exist.
I do daily work with an MFT lookalike table. It isn't really a problem if a hole is blocked. If those wooden pieces beneath the table shift 5cm so they won't block the holes, it's hard to use clamps underneath. Now you just shift a hole, but you can still use the holes for inserts. In my opinion it doesn't really matter, you gotta give some or take some in either situation basically. I don't use my table to cut wood on, I only use it for building, assembling stuff. I made a couple of jiggs specifically for the work I do. Just get some 19 or 20mm wooden plugs. Works like a charm. Enjoy your table!
Couldnt you have used the awl on one end of the jig and the drill bit on the other as locator pins . Drill down one long side then the other..no measurements needed?
Is there any advantage in using an auger bit, rather than a forstner bit, when drilling the dog holes? For mere mortals this video makes so much more sense than the expensive ( though excellent) Parf system. Many thanks.
Thank you for posting this video. My experience with the table that I built is that the 90 degree accuracy was not that great as time went by. A better system than festool MFT table is to switch to a completely xy linear system. It is super accurate as you will be using the same components as real CNC but the z axix will never be as accurate as CNC because the top is not accurate. Frankly, I got tired of replacing the edge on festool guides and sometines the edge is not as good as I expected to be. Festool said this is caused by untuned saw and that I am pusging the saw from wrong angle.
I have never used an MFT table either, but now you show off those accessories, I can see some real benefits. More research needed, I think! Thanks, Craig
I have been wanting one of these for ages but just couldn't justify the cost. This is a great option and I have all the bits lying around so very nearly free. Also, easy to custom size to suit the room. Thanks for posting.
I see you used a jig to ensure that the pilot holes were vertical. Did you take any special steps to ensure the 20mm holes were vertical too? I would think this is more important to ensure the dogs fit and sit vertical. I'm looking for tips to avoid buying the parf guide system. Thanks
Thanks for this video. Have seen other ways to make these but they required expensive kits which make it not affordable for me. This looks affordable to do it this way.
@Rag 'n' Bone Brown, seems to be a good idea in theory, but I'm curious about one thing. The jig you have done was made from a MDF board which isn't particularly hard. Without any steel drill bushings weren't those holes getting a bit bigger every time you drill a hole? I just imagine that with very sharp drill and drilling it by hand it is difficult to drill it absolutely dead straight 90 angle and any kind of slight change of position of the drill takes of a bit of material meaning that after couple of dozens of holes the might not be circular anymore nor the same diameter, leaving it for some play which means lost accuracy. Wasn't it the case for you?
YES, it would have been very sloppy at the end. The jig should have been hardwood. There was absolutely no need for it to be 200mm wide. Also, he should have used a 20mm hole saw (with drill arbor) and not an auger. That would have resulted in perfect accuracy and no tearout.
Very nicely done Keith 😁👍. Just an idea for you if you want an extra function. I made some tool box roller cabinets with a pretend MFT style top (smaller than yours), but because the underside was enclosed (torsion box style) I found that by poking the shop vac in one of the holes.... you have an instant vacume table... ideal for holding flat work.. and it works. Just thought I would let you know 😁. You can see them briefly in my shop tour. Keep up the great vids there great 😁👍.
Excellent video! This could easily be converted to imperial measurements I am sure, which is what we use here in the U.S. I love the accuracy of the table. Here in the U.S. there is a system called the Micro Jig System which uses dovetail clamps and a dovetail router bit. I was looking for a way to make the dovetail cuts accurately and dead on square, and this may just be the answer, so thank you.
I myself use bit expensive way of making MFT tops. (a beloved and notorious about its price, parf guide system!) But this way is much cheaper and also reasonably accurate. (it seems) One way to be sure that is accurate is so called "5 cut method". You should definitely do that. (Unless you don't want to bother about accuracy)
I recently built a new workbench and have been saving up for the UK Parf Guide system jig... No more! Thanks Keith, I'll be doing this myself now 👏. Also thanks for doing the research into 96mm vs 100mm spacing, I was coming to the same conclusion but thought I must be missing something. I too have never actually used an MFT so I'm going with 100mm and crossing any 96mm bridges when I get there 👍
Use 96mm! If you do not, should you ever want any 3rd party accessories, like the triangles from TSO, they use 96mm spacing to attach to an MFT-style top with bench dogs. I CNC’d a huge workbench top about 10 years ago ,and put my 20mm holes on 4” centers. Ten years ago it wasn’t real obvious that 96mm centers would make a difference.
hi rag n bone brown you could cut a notch out of the cross bracing and at leat it would allow you to use some of the accessories that you might need the jig and the mft top is a great job regards
If it is a gang drill, it's 32mm apart because of the 32mm cabinet standard, not because of a machine standard. They are used for drilling hinge and shelf pin holes in cabinet sides and whatnot.
@@xbrem19 Right, but only for the european 32mm standard. Gladly, that is seeing wider adoption, but there are still imperial hole drilling machines that use different spacing at different shops. Just saying that it is *a* standard, not *the* drill machine standard.
made quite a few of these over the years. use a sheet of pegboard to set out your holes push a 5mm spur bit through to mark the holes, so much easier and if you can use a forstner bit in your router at slow speed to cut the holes alternatively buy a cheap drill press to do it. The 96mm is 3 x 32mm which is an industry standard many handles and cabinet dowels/pin outs are set to this. Its a left over from post WW2 utility furniture for some reason they picked 1 1/4" (32mm) for the multi head drilling machines of the time
Another great video Keith, i recently made a mft slab which i first seen on you tube its the same as the top of your work bench but i fit it on saw horses as i dont have a large work area and use it outside.I found the mft slab to be excellent fantastic for cutting and assembly applications i also spaced the holes at 100mm centers and it worked out great.I bought 4 makita tracksaw clamps which screw tight from Amazon as i found them to be the cheapest option, also l put handles on the outer edge of the slab which also double up as clamping holes for larger clamps.I do think that you will find your bracing pieces on your table may get in the way of the festool clomps which like mine hook into position and like you when my slab wears out ill make improvements to my next one
Thanks for the great idea and plans. Downloaded your plans from Etsy and will be making a table maybe even two. Going to add the casters but might adjust the height of the top or maybe not. Going to add some guide rails. But first a heater for the garage, as that mofo is really cold LOL.
Nice simple jig. I would like to share this other little trick if you have the CAD model anyway. Paper templates. I have had success with setting out of the hole positions using a 1:1 scale paper plot, drawn in fusion 360. Print on a large format plotter fairly inexpensive or free when you know an architect. You can just tape or lightly spray glue the paper very precisely to the surface and use pins to mark all of the centers. Basically, you are free from doing any measuring as the centers are computer generated and you can print to a very high level of accuracy. Then it just depends on your drilling method as to how to maintain a vertical pilot hole. It is like having a really basic CNC without actually having the machine. You can then also change the pattern to another layout if needed. Have a great weekend.
I Like that idea a lot my thought would be to print out the array of holes on an A3 sheet. drill the 20mm (+ router collar) holes in that as a template then route out the holes in the work top. you can then reuse the template over the whole area of the work surface and on subsequent work surfaces using the dowels to hold the template in place.
still you have to be so accurate when making the holes, our guy using a drill , he must be the only one in the world who can drill at 90 degrees perfect. I know I am not so the dogs wont be quite right and hence cuts wont be at right angles
Just a thought your choice of moisture resistant mdf could be improved by using Velchromat as its much more resistant to surface damage and it's much more dense. Also the ujk parf system will give you a more accurate grid.
![3 MFT Tops, 3 MFT jigs [Video 498]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/9DhLQPrjnik/mqdefault.jpg)
Hi Keith,
The math is bothering me slightly. Now I understand the 3,4,5 method, but I'm not sure you can just add, multiple and then add to the result in the way you did. I'll repeat what you did using Pythagoras
a² + b² = c²
We want to know c, therefore
c = sqrt(a² + b²)
1) 3²+4²=25
Sqrt(25) = 5
2) you doubled the values
6²+8²=100
Sqrt(100) = 10
3) You multiplied by 100
600²+800² = 1,000,000
Sqrt(1,000,000) = 1000
At this point everything is correct, however simply adding 100 to those values does not work...
700²+900² = 1,300,000
Sqrt(1,300,000) = 1,140.1754
Not 1100
After watching the video back several times, adding 100 is not required as the datum point (x100,y100) can be whatever value you want. As long as you measure from this datum point 600mm in one direction and 800mm perpendicular to it, the 2 points will have a distance of 1000mm (not 1100) if the sides are at 90°.
I still can't figure out how you got 1100.
Hopefully, I've missed something and I'd appreciate if someone could point it out, but I'd hate for someone to make a mistake on something that is intended to be very accurate.
I love your videos, keep up the good work!
He's measuring from the 100mm mark on his tape measure. So 1100 is 1000.
@@JoelPrice253 Yes! I knew I missed something. It was late haha
Yes sorry if I didn't explain it so well 👍
@Stuart Purdue: I had the same doubt, but what he did was not add, but offset by 100mm. Damn, someone already said that...
@@RagnBoneBrown You explained it superbly. Just a miss on Stuart's part.
Hello, I'm a metal worker but same principles apply. I find using dividers to lay out equidistant holes is extremely accurate. In this case absolute accuracy of the holes is not as important as relative accuracy. If the holes are all at 100.01 mm centres it doesn't matter as long as they are all 100.01 mm to achieve square/ straight when jigging/ fixturing. Dividers ensure completely consistent centres. Hope this helps someone. Great build cheers.
Great tip.have dividers but it never occurred to use them before!at least now I'll keep it in my mind!
Good Tip, I was a carpenter for many years and began using dividers to lay out the pickets on a stairway on flat runs, especially if the rail had a radius.
I want to thank you for making this video. I followed your instructions and tested it out on an old sheet of underlayment I'm using for clamping/assembly to see if it was any good. I'm quite impressed by the accuracy of this method and I've made multiple test cuts and every time the tolerance is within 0.05 - 0.10 mm and this is really more then enough for my woodworking projects. Thanks again and keep up the good work !
This is a really excellent video. What came into my mind about the jig for the holes of the mft. If it would be cut a bit wider - e.g. 250 mm instead of 200 mm and you drill two lines of holes (seperated by exactly 100 mm, and the first line 100 mm from the side) you can use it to drill it line by line. But the idea of this jig is really good.
Some great sounds of Ska and Two Tone in the background, which always makes for a great day in the workshop.
Hi Keith,
I keep coming back to your Chanel/Video's for inspiration.
I also am a Newbee and this is only a hobby for me, I started up during to Covid period, I needed some sort of hobby to take my mind off the stresses of work.... well here I am several thousand euros later with a small workshop with a few tools. I love the way you manage to turn an expensive idea, like Peters Festool Table, into something I can play with and not have to spend more money on.
Keep up the good work and thanks for inspiring me and keeping me occupied over the past 3 to 4 months.
As a Festool rep told me, the 96mm on centers was decided on because of the 32mm cabinet frame less metric that is used in Germany and everywhere as a whole.Loved the math lesson and the marking of the top.Seems your jig was spot on.
This is the way 😂
. Most of european cabinets are designed with this rule of 32mm. Hinges fit perfect on this 32mm space. Common handle has a 96cm space between pins...
96 mm is a good universal "unit" if I may say. If you divide 96 / 3 = 32 mm, then you can divide 32 mm in half up to 1 mm: 32, 16, 8, 4, 2, 1. Also 96 / 2 = 48, 24, 12, 6, 3. With 100 mm you stop at 100, 50, 25 mm.
Thank you.
Looks to me like it's to maintain compatibility with imperial units. 3mm ~ 1/8" 6mm ~ 1/4" and so on. I don't use imperial units so like the simplicity of 100mm centres. All the best, Rob in Switzerland
@@RobWhittlestone I don’t think it’s very compatible. It’s exactly 25.4mm per inch. Dividing out 96 gives 3.7795 inches. 89mm would be closer at 3.5039 inches and 127mm is exactly 5 inches, but these aren’t very ergonomic to use as both are prime numbers.
If I were choosing a width, I’d go with 108mm which has a lot of great factors: 1, 2, 3, 4, 6, 9, 12, 18, 27, 36, 54, 108 or 120mm which has even better factors: 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 8, 10, 12, 15, 20, 24, 30, 40, 60 and 120
96 mm is used because it’s based on the 32mm increment used in cabinet building.
@@andrewschultz2504 and 32 mm increment is based on...?
I made a perfectly serviceable MFT following your clear and concise your instructions. Thanks! I did center the 20mm holes to 96mm only because I thought there might be jigs out there that are tailored to Festool's specs. Sidenote: I made bench dogs of various heights and purpose on the lathe.
As wood is becoming very expensive and scarce here in Mexico, I'm thinking on using heavy gauge perforated steel angle (such as used for racks and shelves) that, with enough cross bracing, and bolting it to the floor with anchor bolts, could provide great rigidity at the lower base, but the substructure for the top still needs some thinking. Thanks for a great video on how to make the top, and kudos for your 100 mm spacing! What people preferring to buy instead of DIY, is losing, is a great-great-great opportunity to Learn by thinking and designing yourself the project, like you did. One humble suggestion taken from aeromodellers that use Balsawood (that is quite soft): once you drill every hole and before coating with varnish, you can harden the wall of the holes by wetting them with thin (fast curing) Cyano -acrilate glue. The thin glue is absorbed by the MDF (and most woods) and the glue hardens the surface of the wood. Aeromodellers use that trick to harden the threaded holes in Balsa wood that will receive screws, so that the thread in the wood is more resistant. Same here, to better withstand the push of the dogs. Liked, Subscribed and "Belled".
Very nice job Keith, and thanks so much for the shout-out and linky-links! One thing I do find the MFT useful for that isn't immediately obvious, is to use the back of the rail as a straight-edge when you're using the Domino for 'inboard' mortices - I talk about the technique a bit in video #182 - and it's a real time-saver, especially when you add in stops and flags on the rail, or even just pencil marks. 👍
Yeah I've seen you do that, will try to bear that in mind as looks really useful 👍
Great video. Can I offer a possible refinement to the process when locating the layout of the holes. The initial row is drilled, then the first hole is used to pivot the guide 90 deg to locate the continued row spacing. This could be repeated on the opposing edge and then you just locate each row by top and bottom hole and drill all those inbetween.
The Festool spacing of 96 is 3 x 32. 32mm is the standard spacing in line boreing machines
It's also a multiple of the most common 16mm MDF and chipboard that in EU en the rest of the world from which cabinets are made. Thus the 96mm works towards the spacing for stacking multi layers of the 16mm stuff
I like the way you spell out the reasoning as to why you take any step in the build as you go along!
Thanks for clearly describing all of the steps you used to make your MFT style top. Great results. Other makers claim that a spade bit works better, but your auger bit seemed to do the job nicely. I’m also new to using MFT style tops, but I like the flexibility they offer to hold components during cutting & assembly.
You could pivot the guide on both sides, once each, that way you can use 2 locator pins and stay accurate without measuring.
Doubling the thickness of the guide will also improve the squareness of your drill.
You're correct on both points. However, plumb resulting from the use of this jig is adequate.
Meme Plex. I had that thought too. Once you have a jig, it reduces errors from having to make more measurements - especially if measuring in 100mm increments, rather than absolute 0-(100,200,300,etc)... Incremental errors add up.
John Coloe: Getting all the rows parallel with this method requires very accurate measuring of the free end for every row (absolute measurements is better than incremental), using the Jig to simply spot-drill the 2 long edge rows would remove the need for further measurement. (NB, In favour of your "argument"; even 1mm error at ~800mm (whatever the overall width is) is not significant as far as angle is concerned (asin(1/800) =0.072degrees). Though it will make it more difficult to get fixed dimension fixture "dogs" into the holes (are there any fixtures without adjustable dog spacings??).
96 mathematically is a dozen related number. Dozens are nice because they are divisible by 2, 3, 4 and 6 unlike decimals. I’d say that is why Festool selected 96mm. Thanks for the great video!
Kind of fascinating because its a way of using the metric system to behave functionally like the much-lampooned imperial system.
Festool didn’t come up with that. Post WW2 set the 32mm standard when they started mass rebuilding. 96 is just divisible by 32.
Economical option to the commercial expensive alternatives. I almost ordered one from you know where, but this video changed my mind and saved me money for other necessary tools. Thanks!
there is a company called cnc design, never used them as yet but I am thinking of doing, anyway they make the mft tops but only the one size to fit the crazy price "F......tool.
you can buy templates to use with a router for around £30 now and they are very accurate and means you can make many tops at whatever size you need, if I was making an MFT top I would want it to be more accurate than this version.
Probably the best video on making a workbench top I've seen. Thanks!
This is an extremely creative way to make an MFT table on a budget. Brilliant!
You've made quite a daunting task seem more achievable with clear instructions, tips and tricks! I've not found another video explaining this build as good as you. Thanks for sharing!
Great stuff! i've been watching for a few years now and this video is one of the best you've done! Fantastic idea, explained very well! I was put off the bought systems (mainly because of price) but also because the instructions made it out to be a very complicated process and for those who stuggle with maths, it seemed a little overwelming. This however is as simple as drilling some very accurate holes in a bit of wood. Keeping it simple is always the best! Keep up the good work, you've helped a lot of guys who would never have been able to afford a festool MFT or drilling guide system!
I've tried doing repeated cuts like this and never been successful. I've always ended up frustrated and giving up. Thanks for sharing this, I'll try your way next time. Keep the videos coming, Keith, I really enjoy your honesty, skill and sense of humour. To my mind you've yet to do a dud and, looking back to the early ones, it's interesting to see how you've developed as a presenter/director as well as a woodworker. Cheers mate.
Thank you!
Excellent solution to something that I'm facing as I write this. Thank you.
Someone may have already brought this up but the thought struck me that after you drill the first row of holes and pivot the jig 90 degrees to drill the first perpendicular column to it, one could return the jig to its original position, pin the jig on its other end, then rotate the jig 90 degrees and you can drill a third column of holes parallel to the second batch. You now can move the jig parallel to the first row of holes, pin each end to the two parallel columns, It seems to me this method would reduce the potential error of measuring each subsequent row.
Am I missing anything??
I am about to build my own workshop and your video has helped me very much. Thank you 👍
Your square testing methods for both the mirror equipment and the 3 4 5 method have me subscribing!!
I have been looking to see how I could add dog holes to a workbench I have just built. This is a great video showing how it can be done without spending a lot of money. Thank you.
I used your method to make an MFT top. Thank you so much for this clear and concise video. The top didn't turn out perfectly (maybe half a millimeter off in some places, but no compounding errors), even though I used a drill press and measured carefully -- but it's close enough for all the work I do, and a huge improvement to the workshop. Thanks again!
I might be 4 years late to the party but wanted to thank you for this!
While I am a total Peter of Brit Workshop fanboy and really admire the thinking behind and engineering involved in the parf guide system, I just can't justify the financial outlay for it and have been looking for a viable alternative approach. I really like yours 👍
The only comment I would make to yours is that I would have liked to have seen some more rigorous accuracy testing and maybe in various positions over the table. Maybe even a 5-cut torture test LOL ;)
Thank you again!
Great watch, really enjoyed it. Any rethinks 2 years on? Planning a work bench but can decide if this will work for me.
I've researched the spacing as well and it may not matter, but 100mm math gives 100/50/25/fractions. 96mm gives 96/48/24/12/6/3/fractions. The MFT table is new to me, but I can already see some real advantages. Nice video!
Keith, your set square that is no longer square can be adjusted, if you remove the ruler, there will be 2 small pieces of metal that the ruler rests against. A little bit of filling on the back one (looking at you test lines) should bring it back into square
I would if I had a file small enough. John Heisz actually used the ruler itself to adjust his! Something I've been meaning to try : ua-cam.com/video/cxrCZd7r6qE/v-deo.html
@@RagnBoneBrown excellent idea, and ideal opportunity for you know!
I've just 3d printed a jig that I'm going to use to create mine later next week. Have to see if it works!
Excellent! I've been looking for a DIY method for making an MFT top that didn't involve buying a ridiculously expensive jig. Thank you for sharing such detailed instructions!
EXCELLENT VIDEO.
Good explanation of purpose at the begining so everyone knows what it is you're making and how it works.
All good teachers do this, yet do many UA-camrs don't bother or don't seem to appreciate how important it is.
Good crisp presentational style with tightly coupled and relevant video.
Follow up videos of vice and other table furniture would be well received.
Subscribed and 'belled'.
Looks like it worked. I would like to see a method using a plunge router though. One could use an edge guide and/or the track attachment for the router. Clean perpendicular holes.
Rather than measuring it all out could you use a sheet of peg board to mark where the holes need to be?
Tak!
Thank you so much!
Very well done and worth anyone’s time.
To finish MDF I’ve found that stain (if you want a color other than smashed up wood), followed by 3 coats of shellac is perfect. I lightly sand coats 1 & 2 of the shellac.
The great thing about using shellac is that your dry time is super fast. Also, I like the smell of shellac which I’m sure is not healthy?
Very interesting and useful video. Thanks for sharing. The way you made your MFT top is awesome. Some time ago, I wanted to make a small MFT top as well.
I did (I used another method) but it was not very exact. It is usable for some things but not for cutting straight or 45 degrees corners.
For some time I have another system in my mind which should be far more exact. I did not have time for making it till now. Maybe the upcoming winter.
96 mm spacing is because it's 3 x 32 mm, which is the grid for cabinets, shelving and hinges but that's the only reason I can think of.
It allows you to use the Festool LR32 Hole Drilling System and rails to drill the MFT top holes.
@@dsdragoon Also true.
Glenn Storey That’s the reason for the 96 mm spacing which is also the reason the LR32 size as well, it’s all based on 32 mm cabinet system!
That awl-pivot was masterful
That top looks great Kieth. The new shop is looking smart,. I have two squares identical to your combination square. Mine are not true either ! They looked such good quality at the merchants, and were a good well known brand that i thought id buy two. Never mind.
Cheers Oliver. I haven't tried this yet, but I've been meaning to for a long time so may be worth checking out if you haven't seen it ua-cam.com/video/cxrCZd7r6qE/v-deo.html
I really like this method. My only concern is how you ensured the vertically of the augured 20mm holes? I would think if you were slightly off vertical the dogs either wouldn't fit or they also wouldn't be vertical either. Great video and channel
I had the same concern. If dogs are being used to square up a workpiece, off-plumb holes will result in off square cuts.
The pilot hole is square, and will drag the auger bit down - i.e the auger bit will follow the pilot hole. Also, he drills halfway from one side and halfway from the other side, hence reducing the out of square, if any, by half.
He also mentioned the holes in the jig were made on the drill press to make sure they were vertical.
I was really looking forward to seeing this video as I've just recently cut a mft style worktop with the parf guide. Aside from your additional setup, the time you need to drill and then bore out the holes is the same. The accuracy seems no less precise in your approach so I think you've proved a guide is not necessary. That said it's important that everyone realises that the accuracy of.the jig is crucial and you explained well the need to check and check again as you go. Anyway thanks for sharing an inlook forward to what you do next with it.
Thanks Karl, good to get some feedback on this one as I was a little bit unsure as to how it'd go down! Thanks
@@RagnBoneBrown Would a pair of 'large' dividers help with the 100mm layout?
13:14 you can use a wedgem9f wood as a jig to show you the angle. Procede as you do, stop twisting over when the angles match I have a sled on my tablesaw, it's just a few seconds to cut crookedly. a SCMS works too.
Great tutorial! I have been looking for a good tutorial for drill holes in a grid pattern that is accurate that I can do with existing materials as opposed to expensive fabricated jigs, or shop tools that are very expensive to purchase for a singular project.
I've tried doing some looking, and it looks like the 96mm spacing comes from Festool basing a lot of their systems on 32mm, which apparently comes from European cabinet making using 32mm spacing as a base for shelf pins, if not most measurements of cabinets.
Apparently this comes from the post-WW2 move from adjustable rails for shelving to pins for shelving, due to scarcity of steel at the time and moving to dowel pins, which also took multiple style variations and condensed it into a singular, standardized system; which also made production easier to handle, as you only need a single type of production line in factories, thus making factories more productive by design. 32mm happened to be what most readily available helical gears, that could also handle the torque needed without breaking, had between centers, which were used in a multi-spindle drilling setup. Very economical solution that used tooling that was already available, if history was different and had used larger or smaller gear spacing, we wouldn't be using 32mm as a base spacing today.
I believe it's also because 96 is nicely divisible by more numbers than 100, so for example if you want to use offset holes, you can divide by 2 (48), 3 (32), 4 (24) etc very easily. 100 divides by 2 easily but not by 3 so well. Just a thought.
nice idea with the sideways parallel clamp I have never thought to do that before. I will have to try it on mine sometime.
Another project finished and looking great. The hole drilling method was a super tip and so thanks for sharing that. Always a pleasure to see that you have released a new video. Have a great week and best wishes.
Thank you for this. I am planning my man cave and didn’t think I could justify a work station like this now I have a project 😀 Looks great and enjoy the honest and real vids. Cheers.
Nicely done video ... it seems no matter how many videos I view of a given woodworking subject, I learn something new. Your video is no exception. I really like your approach to solving your design challenges, common sense tends to serve you well. I had to laugh when you realized that you spaced your supports evenly and not how you had originally designed, I did the exact same thing with my bench. I'm sure we shared some common explanatives at the realization of what we had just done. Cheers ...
Hi Keith, currently planning a new workbench & want to put an MFT top on. A few weeks away from the build but just had a dry run/proof of concept on some scrap. Worked perfectly! Looking forward to cracking on now.
96 mm is based on the 32 mm hole spacing for multi spindle drill jigs (32 mm having been the smallest space available at the time of designing the system).
Valeu!
thank you so much!
Great video Keith thanks for posting, love my Benchdogs kit, well made precise and made right here in England! Hope you're well keep 'em coming
Very simple idea well done. If you had either offset the line of 4mm holes to one side instead of cantering them you could have drilled an extra pair at each end 100mm away from the main line so that you could then index the next line of holes off the previous one and avoid introducing any error in measuring the distance for the edge of the board.
I was thinking the same thing, then it occurred to me that accurately place those two holes perpendicular to the jig full row could be difficult since your offset would only be 100mm. Over multiple rows getting laid out you could easily introduce a significant skew even though each of the rows would still be in parallel. I think creating a perpendicular row off each end hole of the first row, and then using those two parallel rows to span with the jig for proper alignment would work better
This is a valuable addition to my woodwork collection ua-cam.com/users/postUgkxbnOKZBE4evMO5V2vroHeCjq6d_MV6wJO I still will rate this woodwork plan as the best in my reference library. It always seem to stand out from the rest whenever you go through the library. This is a masterpiece.
Could you please give us a follow up video on this table build? Tell us how your method worked and what, if any, problems that you had...
Great detail, very informative and easier to understand as compared to others. 4 mm distance would maybe give you 1 to 2 extra hols in the width or long run of your table top. I like the 100mm as it’s even, less math on ruler. I also like that you used MDF and made it waterproof too. You are very good in the instructions of the how to. Thank you for your time. I did get that drill set too.
He could have got more holes by insetting by 50mm rather than 100mm from each edge.
He didn't waterproof the top because he left the inside edges of all the holes unsealed.
Also, that water-based sealer is really "sticky" if you leave something clamped up too long. You will have a hell of a time unsticking your work from it if you leave it clamped (or even resting on it) for more than a few days.
The screw-holes in the Bench Dogs brand rail Square attach dogs to it in such a manner that it holds square to your table if you stuff them into your 96 mm holes. That's the only attachment I know of which requires the 96mm spacing, but it does exist.
I do daily work with an MFT lookalike table. It isn't really a problem if a hole is blocked. If those wooden pieces beneath the table shift 5cm so they won't block the holes, it's hard to use clamps underneath. Now you just shift a hole, but you can still use the holes for inserts. In my opinion it doesn't really matter, you gotta give some or take some in either situation basically.
I don't use my table to cut wood on, I only use it for building, assembling stuff. I made a couple of jiggs specifically for the work I do. Just get some 19 or 20mm wooden plugs. Works like a charm.
Enjoy your table!
Couldnt you have used the awl on one end of the jig and the drill bit on the other as locator pins . Drill down one long side then the other..no measurements needed?
Is there any advantage in using an auger bit, rather than a forstner bit, when drilling the dog holes? For mere mortals this video makes so much more sense than the expensive ( though excellent) Parf system. Many thanks.
Thank you for posting this video. My experience with the table that I built is that the 90 degree accuracy was not that great as time went by.
A better system than festool MFT table is to switch to a completely xy linear system. It is super accurate as you will be using the same components as real CNC but the z axix will never be as accurate as CNC because the top is not accurate.
Frankly, I got tired of replacing the edge on festool guides and sometines the edge is not as good as I expected to be. Festool said this is caused by untuned saw and that I am pusging the saw from wrong angle.
I have never used an MFT table either, but now you show off those accessories, I can see some real benefits. More research needed, I think! Thanks, Craig
I have been wanting one of these for ages but just couldn't justify the cost. This is a great option and I have all the bits lying around so very nearly free. Also, easy to custom size to suit the room. Thanks for posting.
I was a bit bored until I really saw what you were doing with your jig. This is fucking brilliant and repeatable. Nice.
I see you used a jig to ensure that the pilot holes were vertical. Did you take any special steps to ensure the 20mm holes were vertical too? I would think this is more important to ensure the dogs fit and sit vertical. I'm looking for tips to avoid buying the parf guide system. Thanks
Wow, what a clear and precise explanation. A superb solution for us without deep pockets. Nice one Keith
Thanks Stephen - means a lot coming from you
Great video!! Very well explained and inexpensive for most people. It’s always disheartening when someone fires up the CNC to make their top lol.
Thanks for this video. Have seen other ways to make these but they required expensive kits which make it not affordable for me. This looks affordable to do it this way.
@Rag 'n' Bone Brown, seems to be a good idea in theory, but I'm curious about one thing. The jig you have done was made from a MDF board which isn't particularly hard. Without any steel drill bushings weren't those holes getting a bit bigger every time you drill a hole? I just imagine that with very sharp drill and drilling it by hand it is difficult to drill it absolutely dead straight 90 angle and any kind of slight change of position of the drill takes of a bit of material meaning that after couple of dozens of holes the might not be circular anymore nor the same diameter, leaving it for some play which means lost accuracy. Wasn't it the case for you?
YES, it would have been very sloppy at the end. The jig should have been hardwood. There was absolutely no need for it to be 200mm wide.
Also, he should have used a 20mm hole saw (with drill arbor) and not an auger. That would have resulted in perfect accuracy and no tearout.
Your videos are always paso easy to follow and full of detail. Great ideas in this build. Thanks for sharing. Andy UK
I really enjoy your thorough yet understandable explanations and admire your work methods.
Enjoyable video Keith and fair play to anyone who can admit to a mistake well done mate
Nice video. You’ve got me intrigued with the table.
Nice background music in the workshop. Very Special
Very nicely done Keith 😁👍. Just an idea for you if you want an extra function. I made some tool box roller cabinets with a pretend MFT style top (smaller than yours), but because the underside was enclosed (torsion box style) I found that by poking the shop vac in one of the holes.... you have an instant vacume table... ideal for holding flat work.. and it works. Just thought I would let you know 😁. You can see them briefly in my shop tour. Keep up the great vids there great 😁👍.
Excellent video! This could easily be converted to imperial measurements I am sure, which is what we use here in the U.S. I love the accuracy of the table. Here in the U.S. there is a system called the Micro Jig System which uses dovetail clamps and a dovetail router bit. I was looking for a way to make the dovetail cuts accurately and dead on square, and this may just be the answer, so thank you.
Great stuff, appreciate your sharing and the alternative to something like the BIG DOLLAR: PARF guide.
I myself use bit expensive way of making MFT tops. (a beloved and notorious about its price, parf guide system!) But this way is much cheaper and also reasonably accurate. (it seems)
One way to be sure that is accurate is so called "5 cut method". You should definitely do that. (Unless you don't want to bother about accuracy)
8:00 Adding would mess up the ratio, wouldn't it? A 4/5/6 triangle is not the same as a 3/4/5 triangle for e.g.
See pinned comment
@@RagnBoneBrown Ok good, thought I was going crazy there!
A job well done , a nice project and well exicuted Keith.
I recently built a new workbench and have been saving up for the UK Parf Guide system jig... No more! Thanks Keith, I'll be doing this myself now 👏. Also thanks for doing the research into 96mm vs 100mm spacing, I was coming to the same conclusion but thought I must be missing something. I too have never actually used an MFT so I'm going with 100mm and crossing any 96mm bridges when I get there 👍
Use 96mm! If you do not, should you ever want any 3rd party accessories, like the triangles from TSO, they use 96mm spacing to attach to an MFT-style top with bench dogs. I CNC’d a huge workbench top about 10 years ago ,and put my 20mm holes on 4” centers. Ten years ago it wasn’t real obvious that 96mm centers would make a difference.
Thank you for the videos! In case you're not aware, you can probably adjust your combination square using a needle file.
hi rag n bone brown
you could cut a notch out of the cross bracing and at leat it would allow you to use some of the accessories
that you might need the jig and the mft top is a great job
regards
96mm is 3x32mm which is industry standard for drills spacing. I work with CNC machines and all drills are 32mm apart
If it is a gang drill, it's 32mm apart because of the 32mm cabinet standard, not because of a machine standard. They are used for drilling hinge and shelf pin holes in cabinet sides and whatnot.
@@Psychlist1972 yes, due to cabinet standard it is machine standard :)
@@xbrem19 Right, but only for the european 32mm standard. Gladly, that is seeing wider adoption, but there are still imperial hole drilling machines that use different spacing at different shops. Just saying that it is *a* standard, not *the* drill machine standard.
@@Psychlist1972 Apart from custom built machines, what is other holes spacing widely used, other then 32mm? What is it in imperial? An inch?
@@xbrem19 1" and a quarter
made quite a few of these over the years. use a sheet of pegboard to set out your holes push a 5mm spur bit through to mark the holes, so much easier and if you can use a forstner bit in your router at slow speed to cut the holes alternatively buy a cheap drill press to do it. The 96mm is 3 x 32mm which is an industry standard many handles and cabinet dowels/pin outs are set to this. Its a left over from post WW2 utility furniture for some reason they picked 1 1/4" (32mm) for the multi head drilling machines of the time
Hi Avery useful video and well explained. I shall look forward to making my own MFT. Many thanks, Phil
Another great video Keith, i recently made a mft slab which i first seen on you tube its the same as the top of your work bench but i fit it on saw horses as i dont have a large work area and use it outside.I found the mft slab to be excellent fantastic for cutting and assembly applications i also spaced the holes at 100mm centers and it worked out great.I bought 4 makita tracksaw clamps which screw tight from Amazon as i found them to be the cheapest option, also l put handles on the outer edge of the slab which also double up as clamping holes for larger clamps.I do think that you will find your bracing pieces on your table may get in the way of the festool clomps which like mine hook into position and like you when my slab wears out ill make improvements to my next one
Good work Keith. You've created a lot of capability there for minimal cost.
Thanks for the great idea and plans. Downloaded your plans from Etsy and will be making a table maybe even two. Going to add the casters but might adjust the height of the top or maybe not. Going to add some guide rails. But first a heater for the garage, as that mofo is really cold LOL.
Nice simple jig. I would like to share this other little trick if you have the CAD model anyway. Paper templates. I have had success with setting out of the hole positions using a 1:1 scale paper plot, drawn in fusion 360. Print on a large format plotter fairly inexpensive or free when you know an architect. You can just tape or lightly spray glue the paper very precisely to the surface and use pins to mark all of the centers. Basically, you are free from doing any measuring as the centers are computer generated and you can print to a very high level of accuracy. Then it just depends on your drilling method as to how to maintain a vertical pilot hole. It is like having a really basic CNC without actually having the machine. You can then also change the pattern to another layout if needed. Have a great weekend.
I Like that idea a lot my thought would be to print out the array of holes on an A3 sheet. drill the 20mm (+ router collar) holes in that as a template then route out the holes in the work top. you can then reuse the template over the whole area of the work surface and on subsequent work surfaces using the dowels to hold the template in place.
still you have to be so accurate when making the holes, our guy using a drill , he must be the only one in the world who can drill at 90 degrees perfect. I know I am not so the dogs wont be quite right and hence cuts wont be at right angles
Just a thought your choice of moisture resistant mdf could be improved by using Velchromat as its much more resistant to surface damage and it's much more dense. Also the ujk parf system will give you a more accurate grid.
And you build your own Parf System... using a piece of wood... 😀!
Very nice!.... lovely!.... great lesson!
Thxs!
5 years later.. Have you tried the Matchfit system? Still liking your Dog holes, and can you compare to the Matchfit Dovetail system?
Great work. I would suggest that you could use a couple of 4mm drill bits to locate in the jig holes.
Dogs with collars! I love it!