Wow, what a great educational video on aligning all the panels on a car/truck not just a door or a fender. The experience Dave has in doing this work just flows out of the video. No BS here. Tips and tricks galore BTW, great use of the hand hammer
Thanx for taking the time for such an informative video. I would like to add one tip for door alignment. After the final fitting and alignment of the door, I drill a 1/8 in hole somewhere near the alignment bolts in the hinge, on both the pillar and door side. These holes will then take a 1/8 drill bit or a nail and when the doors are reassembled back on the truck , they provide a quick alignment and help prevent paint chips if the doors are painted separately. The doors may still have to be moved around but are close enough to get started. Thanx again.
i’m so glad to have found Brother’s Truck. They’ve got all the parts that are impossible to find. Just bought about every single part you can for a ‘72 C20 Custom Camper. Thanks Brothers
We all know that have worked on these old trucks, that they absolutely were not perfect from the factory. Dave does a good job of describing what to do to finesse your gaps and alignment.
Just a great place to start and excellent information. I agree completely with Rons Re-Creations below as this was a perfect tutorial! I will only add to Dave’s video as he is doing it correct, but you have to start somewhere. Now, I don’t have a proper shop and just a home garage, but use tape to mark the tires, same size just for testing, spend the good money later. So, tape on floor at each tire. Check air pressure on all, roll out and clean the floor. Now, string or what U got, check the floors for level. In a house, contractors will taper or slope the concrete away from internal structure, same in a 3 car (Lucky Dog) but commercial shops have a center drain. Check for level and write it on the tape. Use a scrap pallet to find a thickness the width of the tire. Place the tire on top as to level the frame. Measure points on suspension front and rear as 51 years ago, uncle Jake torched a coil spring, replace what is needed. Then door hinges and hood. These hinges wear a rivets wear or oblong holes, replace. Now with good hinges, a level work spot, start with beginning of Dave’s video. It is best to re-use OEM sheet metal, but even new 60 years ago these trucks were built on worn holding fixtures with stamping worn from hand-craftsman using grinders to files, designed by no computers, just rooms of engineers with slide rules and pocket protectors. No CNC, no high polished fixtures and built for the working man who settled down after WW-II who needed a tractor with a cab on it, heat in the winter was nice. Think straight Six cylinder and granny low to pull the stuck tractor or a tree stump. A/C was some invented 40+ years earlier by a guy named Carrier. And not many trucks had A/C as an option, but you could order one with a white top paint, a two-tone that reflected heat. Now 60+ years later, it is up to you to find, fix and follow best practices Dave is showing to have a great looking truck. Stop to fill the tank someday, and a crowd gathers with 20 questions and a story of their dad, grandpa or uncle, guaranteed. You will be proud, you did this! Thanks Dave! + Brothers…
32:02 I like what u did to that 62 Chevy truck door makes very straight I've seen few times when there's a gap between fender & door causing to be not even.
Hi David, I am very impressed with your tutorial. It will come in handy on my 1st Gen cummins crew cab longbed conversion. Just finished up on my frame mod and getting things done. Thanks for sharing your insight tips and tricks & "What to watch out for" Thanks !
Yeah, but then you get to say "Better then Factory"...lol What are you building right now? I am working on a 1974 CJ5 with a full fiberglass body. I plan on selling it to get a CJ7, and all metal.
Super great video mate. One problem adjusting fenders/doors without engine trans weight is that the alignment goes off when eng trans interior all goes in later. I always end up readjusting the doors and sometimes fenders when the completed project is sitting on its wheels on the ground.
That's a good point especially on vehicles that have a unitized body like Camaro's, Nova's etc... it's not nearly as critical on a truck or passenger car with a complete chassis front to rear.
Great video, all the old truck owners should be subscribe to this channel, I’ve shared it around, I myself is working on a 86 Stepside that will be for show I hope by 2023 😎..(the one in profile pic) look forward to many more of your videos.. thx for sharing
Great video, im almost to this point with my truck. Is it best to have your door frame weatherstripping installed before or after you get the doors aligned? Thanks!
Enjoy watching these for sure. If door is too deep on the latch side will you sometimes need to elongate latch bolt holes to the cab? I have adjustments all the way out and it is still too deep.
The edge of the door is further in towards the cab of the truck vs the edge of the cab. This is on the latch side. I have the striker adjusted all the way out on the cab.
Question: On a 85 chevy c10, putting fenders back on and the cage nut for the front fender (located just above the upper door hinge) disappeared. Probably fell down into the lower part of the cowl. Cant find it and can not get to the spot where this nut goes from the inside of the truck under the dash. Only holes there are to high or too low, any ideas???
Dave; I have a 59 Chevy 3100. The door pockets are welded at the bolts. You know how they cracked out. I'm guessing it is best to remove the spot welds on the pocket and replace it and the hinge, if I can't save them. Your thoughts would be much appreciated. Thanks
Its all just metal, you can save it. My suggestion as always is just to take as little as possible, bit by bit until you get to the point that you have the solid structure repaired. Also, take your time and don't get carried away
Dave, I'm trying to get more / better information on your 51-55 Chevy one piece door glass conversion kit, the issue is with installing the front window channel, your video doesn't detail how you modify the included channel to come up with the tab that starts the beginning point. So far I just have some badly printed pics, any timely help would be appreciated, thanks Steve in Arizona
@@shawnlawrence4840 yeah, depending on what equipment you're welding with the lens would be different. We use an automatic one here and it's great. They can be purchased at Harbor Freight at a fair price.
Note: Always try to use the longest level possible. We all should have that small level and can't work with out it, but the longer the level the more accurate it is. As I use mine almost daily I spent way to much money on a great set but that is not required and you can get good levels at your budget tool place (HF) that I have and work just as well.
Great tip! I also check mine for accuracy when I get new ones, and occasionally to make sure they stay that way. I have had them twist, or warp before. I have been told it was over kill, but I am sure of the accuracy. I spent too much on these things to be "Close Enough".
Timely for me. I'm ready to put the chicken coop back on the frame. Is it better to break it down or put it back as a unit since it had a pretty good alignment when I removed it as one unit? In case you're not sure, chicken coop is front clip.
If you put it back on as a whole then you're likely to struggle with the fender to door alignment on both sides. Obviously it can be done that way, but we recommend talking it apart. If it lined up good before, then it should be easy to make it line up good again even if you blast it into pieces.
Don't know what the problem is. Shims by the dozen and huge washers. Cars and trucks weren't built with precision . I started doing body work 50 years ago and made a good living till retirement and sold my tools. I hate plastic.
Wow, what a great educational video on aligning all the panels on a car/truck not just a door or a fender. The experience Dave has in doing this work just flows out of the video. No BS here. Tips and tricks galore
BTW, great use of the hand hammer
I always learn something new every time I watch . glad I subed like a year or two ago.
Thanks for watching man!
@@BROTHERSTruckPartsTV you're welcome.
One of the best vids on YT for setting gaps.
Thanks for the feedback!
Thanx for taking the time for such an informative video. I would like to add one tip for door alignment. After the final fitting and alignment of the door, I drill a 1/8 in hole somewhere near the alignment bolts in the hinge, on both the pillar and door side. These holes will then take a 1/8 drill bit or a nail and when the doors are reassembled back on the truck , they provide a quick alignment and help prevent paint chips if the doors are painted separately. The doors may still have to be moved around but are close enough to get started. Thanx again.
I had to watch this one again because there is just so much good info here.
Thanks for watching x2!
Love watching these videos, if you ever need another C-10 for your how to videos…. I’ve got one I’ll let you borrow!!!!
Do you live in SoCal?
i’m so glad to have found Brother’s Truck. They’ve got all the parts that are impossible to find. Just bought about every single part you can for a ‘72 C20 Custom Camper. Thanks Brothers
Our pleasure, thanks for the business!
best video so far I've seen
Thanks for watching!
One of the best videos of yours! Great! And remember: heat is your enemy, your nemesis...
Thanks as always RMD
We all know that have worked on these old trucks, that they absolutely were not perfect from the factory. Dave does a good job of describing what to do to finesse your gaps and alignment.
So true, these were trucks and never meant to be perfect and coveted.
This video is pure gold !
Thanks Richard! Appreciate the feedback!
I have learned quite a bit from these videos. This one gave me plenty of great ideas. Many thanks!!!
Thanks!
I'm aligning doors and strikers on my 69 GMC this weekend. Thank you!
Excellent, we hope this video helps with your project!
Just a great place to start and excellent information. I agree completely with Rons Re-Creations below as this was a perfect tutorial! I will only add to Dave’s video as he is doing it correct, but you have to start somewhere. Now, I don’t have a proper shop and just a home garage, but use tape to mark the tires, same size just for testing, spend the good money later. So, tape on floor at each tire. Check air pressure on all, roll out and clean the floor. Now, string or what U got, check the floors for level. In a house, contractors will taper or slope the concrete away from internal structure, same in a 3 car (Lucky Dog) but commercial shops have a center drain. Check for level and write it on the tape. Use a scrap pallet to find a thickness the width of the tire. Place the tire on top as to level the frame. Measure points on suspension front and rear as 51 years ago, uncle Jake torched a coil spring, replace what is needed. Then door hinges and hood. These hinges wear a rivets wear or oblong holes, replace. Now with good hinges, a level work spot, start with beginning of Dave’s video. It is best to re-use OEM sheet metal, but even new 60 years ago these trucks were built on worn holding fixtures with stamping worn from hand-craftsman using grinders to files, designed by no computers, just rooms of engineers with slide rules and pocket protectors. No CNC, no high polished fixtures and built for the working man who settled down after WW-II who needed a tractor with a cab on it, heat in the winter was nice. Think straight Six cylinder and granny low to pull the stuck tractor or a tree stump. A/C was some invented 40+ years earlier by a guy named Carrier. And not many trucks had A/C as an option, but you could order one with a white top paint, a two-tone that reflected heat. Now 60+ years later, it is up to you to find, fix and follow best practices Dave is showing to have a great looking truck. Stop to fill the tank someday, and a crowd gathers with 20 questions and a story of their dad, grandpa or uncle, guaranteed. You will be proud, you did this! Thanks Dave! + Brothers…
Thanks for your comments Dean!
I’m doing a frame off on my 79 F150. This is what I got to look for next year. Ugh!!! Great Video.
Thanks Dave, real handy tips once more.
Cheers & stay safe
Thanks!
Thanks Dave ! You are a true master on these old trucks !!
Thanks man!
Awesome 👍 finally video of this
By request!
Hi Dave , I found Your video very helpful , using Your tips and techniques, My 1981 Camper special moving along nice , Thank You !
That's great to hear, thanks for watching!
32:02 I like what u did to that 62 Chevy truck door makes very straight I've seen few times when there's a gap between fender & door causing to be not even.
Sometimes you just have to work a little harder to get perfection, and Dave is all about that!
Thanks good stuff
I have seen most of your videos. Best one by far.
Thanks for watching!
Thanks for sharing info and making this vid! This is exactly what I’m doing to my 71 c10. Now I know exactly what I need to get everything lined up!
Our pleasure man, good luck with the project!
@@BROTHERSTruckPartsTV thank you!
Absolutely excellent video, thanks for sharing 👍 I learn something new from you every time!
Thanks for the feedback!
Great video very useful in restoring these truck thanks brothers
Our pleasure!
You're the man! I appreciate your videos
Thanks man!
Thanks for explaining the principles of things. I'm doing a frame off 53 Chevy 1/2 ton pickup.
Have fun with your project!
Thank you guys so much!
I love this guys tutorials. Great instructor.
Great masterclass.
Thanks for watching!
Hi David, I am very impressed with your tutorial. It will come in handy on my 1st Gen cummins crew cab longbed conversion. Just finished up on my frame mod and getting things done. Thanks for sharing your insight tips and tricks & "What to watch out for" Thanks !
Our pleasure! Have fun with that project!
what a great video Dave, so many tips and great instruction!!
Glad you enjoyed it
Great tips.
Thanks!
Great video. Thank you
Thank you for watching!
I just say mine are crooked because of factory tolerances :D BTW great video and very pertinent to where I am in my project. Thanks!
LOL, our pleasure!
Yeah, but then you get to say "Better then Factory"...lol
What are you building right now? I am working on a 1974 CJ5 with a full fiberglass body. I plan on selling it to get a CJ7, and all metal.
Great video!
Thanks Robert!
Definitely needed!!! That’s the part I’m STRUGGLING with is body alignment!!! Too frustrating!!!!!!
Super great video mate. One problem adjusting fenders/doors without engine trans weight is that the alignment goes off when eng trans interior all goes in later. I always end up readjusting the doors and sometimes fenders when the completed project is sitting on its wheels on the ground.
That's a good point especially on vehicles that have a unitized body like Camaro's, Nova's etc... it's not nearly as critical on a truck or passenger car with a complete chassis front to rear.
Thanks, you explained that well !!!!!
Glad it was helpful!
Great video, all the old truck owners should be subscribe to this channel, I’ve shared it around, I myself is working on a 86 Stepside that will be for show I hope by 2023 😎..(the one in profile pic) look forward to many more of your videos.. thx for sharing
Good luck with your project! Hope to see it in person some day.
Great video, im almost to this point with my truck. Is it best to have your door frame weatherstripping installed before or after you get the doors aligned? Thanks!
Enjoy watching these for sure. If door is too deep on the latch side will you sometimes need to elongate latch bolt holes to the cab? I have adjustments all the way out and it is still too deep.
What do you mean by too deep? You should never have to elongate the holes.
The edge of the door is further in towards the cab of the truck vs the edge of the cab. This is on the latch side. I have the striker adjusted all the way out on the cab.
Question: On a 85 chevy c10, putting fenders back on and the cage nut for the front fender (located just above the upper door hinge) disappeared. Probably fell down into the lower part of the cowl. Cant find it and can not get to the spot where this nut goes from the inside of the truck under the dash. Only holes there are to high or too low, any ideas???
Dave; I have a 59 Chevy 3100. The door pockets are welded at the bolts. You know how they cracked out. I'm guessing it is best to remove the spot welds on the pocket and replace it and the hinge, if I can't save them. Your thoughts would be much appreciated. Thanks
Its all just metal, you can save it. My suggestion as always is just to take as little as possible, bit by bit until you get to the point that you have the solid structure repaired. Also, take your time and don't get carried away
Dave, I'm trying to get more / better information on your 51-55 Chevy one piece door glass conversion kit, the issue is with installing the front window channel, your video doesn't detail how you modify the included channel to come up with the tab that starts the beginning point. So far I just have some badly printed pics, any timely help would be appreciated, thanks Steve in Arizona
Steve, call our office and ask for Jamie. He's the on-hand expert with that kit. He'll walk you through it. 800-977-2767
David it looks like ur using Harbor freight measuring tape thin as paper lol
Yeah, things get lost quick around the studio, so the backup equipment is mostly inexpensive Harbor Freight stuff. Thanks for watching!
What guage sheet metal is used on the square body rocker panel from you guys? I love the ones i purchase from you.
Most of our metal is 18g which is similar to OEM.
I have a flux core welder, which upon arrival of the other panels I will use but I cant see through my face sheild, is it because I'm outdoors?
@@shawnlawrence4840 Is your face shield automatic? Maybe the Flux isn't creating enough Blue Light? Maybe you need a different lens?
@@BROTHERSTruckPartsTV no it's not automatic, so does the lense have different level of transition? Or I'll just get an automatic.
@@shawnlawrence4840 yeah, depending on what equipment you're welding with the lens would be different. We use an automatic one here and it's great. They can be purchased at Harbor Freight at a fair price.
Aren’t the 56’s - 55’s much harder to bolt on and align the hinges?
Note: Always try to use the longest level possible. We all should have that small level and can't work with out it, but the longer the level the more accurate it is. As I use mine almost daily I spent way to much money on a great set but that is not required and you can get good levels at your budget tool place (HF) that I have and work just as well.
Good tip!
Great tip! I also check mine for accuracy when I get new ones, and occasionally to make sure they stay that way. I have had them twist, or warp before. I have been told it was over kill, but I am sure of the accuracy. I spent too much on these things to be "Close Enough".
@@myconight Agreed, top levels are crazy expensive and expect to be perfect.
Timely for me. I'm ready to put the chicken coop back on the frame. Is it better to break it down or put it back as a unit since it had a pretty good alignment when I removed it as one unit? In case you're not sure, chicken coop is front clip.
If you put it back on as a whole then you're likely to struggle with the fender to door alignment on both sides. Obviously it can be done that way, but we recommend talking it apart. If it lined up good before, then it should be easy to make it line up good again even if you blast it into pieces.
@@BROTHERSTruckPartsTV OK. Thanks.
Faz vídeos da Chevrolet 1950 👍👍👍
How many of you do this for a living and already know these things but still watch anyways?? Lol.
Thanks for watching!
@@BROTHERSTruckPartsTV No problem. Enjoy the show & I’ve had nothin but a positive experience when ordering parts.
I would like to see a frame straighten video, let me know if you need a truck frame to straighten....
You guys should start a real show, like the old TRUCKS series from 20 years ago.
I agreed
That's basically what we're doing here. New videos come out every Tuesday morning at 9am just like your favorite TV series.
Whats your UA-cam channel??
BROTHERS Truck Parts
Yes but, I heard Dave Welch has or will have his own personal UA-cam channel!
I was wondering whats his channel name.
@@calinick86 Dave had had his own channel all along. You can find it @ Automotive Restoration and Training
@@BROTHERSTruckPartsTV found it!!! Thanks a lot
Don't know what the problem is. Shims by the dozen and huge washers. Cars and trucks weren't built with precision . I started doing body work 50 years ago and made a good living till retirement and sold my tools. I hate plastic.
Wait till you have to put a Corvette back together LOL
Did Holley discontinue this channel? If so, that’s pretty fucking lame