I was getting ready to buy the puller I saw on a video you were in for Marine Tech Tools. Do you still work with them? Do you recommend this puller over that one? Thanks for sharing your knowledge and experiences.
Happy New Year! I left Marine Tech Tools a few years ago, in 2017, and created Outboard Specialty a few months later. After starting Outboard Specialty, I went back to the drawing board to create new designs and new tools. I designed this puller to have the versatility to work with any outboard gearcase manufacturer with any horse power from 9.9 to 450. The idea being that I thought professional shops, and outboard enthusiasts in general, would be better served using one puller for all outboards as opposed to a pricy mix of pullers, couplers, slide hammers etc to cover the same application. I needed a puller that was extremely strong and balanced, and that maximized mechanical advantage. Also, I don't like the idea of using hooks to pull on the bearing carrier housing itself while pressing on the end of the prop shaft. To me, creating more mechanical advantage, balance etc for this type of work translates into less time, less torque and less torch increasing safety and savings/profit.
@@outboardst.comoutboardspec8631 Thanks...the one you used in this video definitely looks strong, although when I heard that pop, I was expecting the worst. Could I use this puller for the bearing carrier and the bearing housing under the water pump. If, so, I'm buying it. ;-) Thanks again.
The audible pop in the video was the sound of the thrust washer and O-ring shattering and removing a solid ring of scale and other material deposited in the interior casing/exhaust bore on the forward side of the bearing carrier housing between the carrier and reverse gear. This puller can be used to remove upper/drive shaft carriers as well, but we are in the process of smoothing out the procedure so as to make it fast, easy and reliable enough for professional use, especially considering the level of corrosion and seized metal that is found on the older super corroded salt water cases. Originally I didn't design 0024 to remove uppers, but discovered it was pretty easy to do (for uppers that arent badly siezed) by using the base plate with a couple of bolts. I'll post a video as soon as possible showing what we have.
Just purchased this tool, had multiple different pullers fail on a Yamaha F250 gear case carrier removal, this tool made quick work of the seized carrier, we broke the carrier during removal but were able to save the case , thanks OST !
Recently ordered one to use on my 1976 Mercury Mariner. 45 years old I would imagine it's going to be a tough one to get out so this solid tool should do the trick.
the good thing about working with mechanic in the usa is that you find tools for eveything.. as well as spare parts, especially after market.. I'm back in brazil after working as a mechanic in the usa for 3 years and it's a nightmare to find good tools and spare parts here for whatever application.
this was an ox66 lower, when carrier came out, it brought prop shaft with it....it this always the case ? I need to access the detent balls as the f/n/r has no noticeable clicking/stops, between I think previous owner smashed lower shift shaft
When used on a counter revolution gearbox, are there different procedures? Do you sell a tool to remove the pressed gears on a counter revolution gearbox (2007 F250TXR)
Great channel and products! Question-Does the gear selector shaft need to be in N, F, R or removed all together before you pull the prop shaft bearing? I made a fatal error on my 1st engine and trying to avoid it on it's twin. Your tools rock!
Kelly, Glad our tools are helpful, and thanks. The shift rod definitely has to come out. These models have a rotating shift rod that has a pin in the bottom of it which is seated in a linkage at the end of the prop shaft and will need to be lifted out to avoid interference and possible damage.
I need a a shaft puller for my yamaha 40hp to replace my reverse gear due to grinding noise and not wanting to rotate fast enough,but im not sure what puller is good for the shaft pull.any suggestion?
Hi, sorry for late reply. There are several pullers to choose from. For smaller units, many technicians will work with a slide hammer assembly. In my shop we use OST-0024 for everything.
Your tool removed the bearing carrier and prop shaft together. Why? was that necessary? can we just removed the bearing carrier to replace the prop shaft oil seal? Thank you
Yes, that is correct, OST-0024 will pull the entire assembly from the prop shaft back, because that's how I designed it. There are some pullers that will pull only the carrier, but we do not make or sell them.
It will be necessary to unbolt and drop the lower because the shift rod has to be removed on any motor with a ratcheting shift rod, because ratcheting shift rods are normally seated/linked into the shift linkage which is connected to the prop shaft. So, normally the shift cover and shift rod is removed, along with any other hardware that is connected to either the bearing housing or the prop shaft before removing. The drive shaft, pinion gear and forward gear bearings etc all remain inside the casing unless they are being removed for inspection or replacement
Hi Francisco, I recommend never. It is exceptionally rare for the lower, or upper, carrier o-rings to fail, at least on Yamaha. Normally every other seal in the gear case will fail before the fat one goes. The most important thing to look at is your gear oil. Drain the gear oil into a clean drain pan and examine for any trace of water or any chunks of metal. If gear oil looks milky or discolored, there is almost always a blown oil seal(s) and there is some level of water intrusion. If gear oil is black as midnight and sludgy, it is usually heavy wear, and simply needs to be replaced. A small amount of fine metal shavings, usually stuck to the magnetized lower drain screw, is normal. If you find milky gear oil (or running water, which would have replaced your gear oil), or if you find chunks of metal, not shavings, there is an issue. Normally a pressure test, with some soapy water sprayed on the external oil seals: drive shaft, shift rod, and prop seals and into the bore of the lower casing will tell you very quickly where the leak is. Pressurize to about 8 PSI and look for bubbles. If the fat one is damaged, you will see bubbles forming at the forward section of the lower carrier, just forward of the main exhaust housing in the lower casing. Bubbles and leaks up high on the upper carrier and shift cover shift rod are easier to deal with. Chunks of metal, bubbles and leaks on the lower carrier either at the prop shaft or the main lower carrier o-ring, or a bent prop shaft and the lower carrier needs to come out.
I'm a mobile guy in Florida, and I'm always looking for ways to make it easier to get those damn carriers out to replace the seals. Just ordered one, excited to try it out. like the fact that it doesnt crack & chip the carriers inner lip.
Awesome tool! I received mine in a few days and had shaft out in less than 30 minutes. The motor sat for over 3 years and is very crusty. 2007 Yamaha F150TXR
Hi Chris, the gear case rack is from Kerr's Marine (Bob Kerr Marine Tool Co.) Central Florida. We've put that fixture to the test many times over and it has been awesome.
How does it pull it off? Would tsis work on a 125hp mercury sorry if this is a silly question, im having a night mare trying to remove the baring carrier on my 125hp mercury and your vid makes this look simple. I need simple right now haha!
Fitting all gear cases was one of the goals with the design, but an additional selling point would be rarely if ever having to use a torch, eliminating a safety and time concern in most shops. Also, the puller offers a more efficient alignment and stays aligned, parallel to prop shaft and perpendicular to pulling surface, so force goes where it needs to go, creating a cleaner, easier extraction. We haven't had any casing damage yet and most of the gear cases we've tested on have been units that showed up in my shop for re-seal/rebuild in addition to the completely seized units that were pulled out of the scrap pile. There is potential to cause some casing damage, so we are looking at some bells and whistles to add to the kit so that any risk of damage to the casing is minimized.
I’ve work in a saltwater environment for over 20 years and have used this method, different tool setup with a lot of success. However I did have one that broke the leading side of the gear case. Still a good method because the other pullers usually damage the bearing carrier.
Lol, I would not know. I own zero Snap On, but one day I will have some of their stuff for the shop. As a rule most of my hand tools that travel in the truck, have to be functional but inexpensive enough to be lost at the bottom of the river at the marina, or elsewhere and I lose no sleep.
I was getting ready to buy the puller I saw on a video you were in for Marine Tech Tools. Do you still work with them? Do you recommend this puller over that one? Thanks for sharing your knowledge and experiences.
Happy New Year! I left Marine Tech Tools a few years ago, in 2017, and created Outboard Specialty a few months later. After starting Outboard Specialty, I went back to the drawing board to create new designs and new tools. I designed this puller to have the versatility to work with any outboard gearcase manufacturer with any horse power from 9.9 to 450. The idea being that I thought professional shops, and outboard enthusiasts in general, would be better served using one puller for all outboards as opposed to a pricy mix of pullers, couplers, slide hammers etc to cover the same application. I needed a puller that was extremely strong and balanced, and that maximized mechanical advantage. Also, I don't like the idea of using hooks to pull on the bearing carrier housing itself while pressing on the end of the prop shaft. To me, creating more mechanical advantage, balance etc for this type of work translates into less time, less torque and less torch increasing safety and savings/profit.
@@outboardst.comoutboardspec8631 Thanks...the one you used in this video definitely looks strong, although when I heard that pop, I was expecting the worst. Could I use this puller for the bearing carrier and the bearing housing under the water pump. If, so, I'm buying it. ;-) Thanks again.
The audible pop in the video was the sound of the thrust washer and O-ring shattering and removing a solid ring of scale and other material deposited in the interior casing/exhaust bore on the forward side of the bearing carrier housing between the carrier and reverse gear. This puller can be used to remove upper/drive shaft carriers as well, but we are in the process of smoothing out the procedure so as to make it fast, easy and reliable enough for professional use, especially considering the level of corrosion and seized metal that is found on the older super corroded salt water cases. Originally I didn't design 0024 to remove uppers, but discovered it was pretty easy to do (for uppers that arent badly siezed) by using the base plate with a couple of bolts. I'll post a video as soon as possible showing what we have.
Just purchased this tool, had multiple different pullers fail on a Yamaha F250 gear case carrier removal, this tool made quick work of the seized carrier, we broke the carrier during removal but were able to save the case , thanks OST !
Great to see what’s inside and how it works
Recently ordered one to use on my 1976 Mercury Mariner. 45 years old I would imagine it's going to be a tough one to get out so this solid tool should do the trick.
Great tools, great video. Thank you for continuing to post great content.
awesome tool, looks well built, and its not snap on expensive either- a huge plus
Seems like a lot of force is being applied to the thin lip of the housing, is there danger of breaking the case?
What tool do yo use to get the prop shaft out of the bearing carrier?
the good thing about working with mechanic in the usa is that you find tools for eveything.. as well as spare parts, especially after market.. I'm back in brazil after working as a mechanic in the usa for 3 years and it's a nightmare to find good tools and spare parts here for whatever application.
this was an ox66 lower, when carrier came out, it brought prop shaft with it....it this always the case ?
I need to access the detent balls as the f/n/r has no noticeable clicking/stops, between
I think previous owner smashed lower shift shaft
Did you ever make a video of the re-install stepa?
When used on a counter revolution gearbox, are there different procedures? Do you sell a tool to remove the pressed gears on a counter revolution gearbox (2007 F250TXR)
For Yamaha the Procedure is the same. A bearing splitter is usually my choice for the gear pressed into the bearing carrier.
Great channel and products! Question-Does the gear selector shaft need to be in N, F, R or removed all together before you pull the prop shaft bearing? I made a fatal error on my 1st engine and trying to avoid it on it's twin. Your tools rock!
Kelly, Glad our tools are helpful, and thanks. The shift rod definitely has to come out. These models have a rotating shift rod that has a pin in the bottom of it which is seated in a linkage at the end of the prop shaft and will need to be lifted out to avoid interference and possible damage.
hi sir long time and good to see your excellent videos keep it up.
I need a a shaft puller for my yamaha 40hp to replace my reverse gear due to grinding noise and not wanting to rotate fast enough,but im not sure what puller is good for the shaft pull.any suggestion?
Hi, sorry for late reply. There are several pullers to choose from. For smaller units, many technicians will work with a slide hammer assembly. In my shop we use OST-0024 for everything.
Your tool removed the bearing carrier and prop shaft together. Why? was that necessary? can we just removed the bearing carrier to replace the prop shaft oil seal? Thank you
Yes, that is correct, OST-0024 will pull the entire assembly from the prop shaft back, because that's how I designed it. There are some pullers that will pull only the carrier, but we do not make or sell them.
Is it necessary to remove the lower unit of the motor and remove the gear shaft in order to remove the propeller shaft?
It will be necessary to unbolt and drop the lower because the shift rod has to be removed on any motor with a ratcheting shift rod, because ratcheting shift rods are normally seated/linked into the shift linkage which is connected to the prop shaft. So, normally the shift cover and shift rod is removed, along with any other hardware that is connected to either the bearing housing or the prop shaft before removing. The drive shaft, pinion gear and forward gear bearings etc all remain inside the casing unless they are being removed for inspection or replacement
Great video! When is it recommended to change the oversized o ring on the lower carrier bearing? I have a 2001 200 hpdi and never changed it. Thanks
Hi Francisco, I recommend never. It is exceptionally rare for the lower, or upper, carrier o-rings to fail, at least on Yamaha. Normally every other seal in the gear case will fail before the fat one goes. The most important thing to look at is your gear oil. Drain the gear oil into a clean drain pan and examine for any trace of water or any chunks of metal. If gear oil looks milky or discolored, there is almost always a blown oil seal(s) and there is some level of water intrusion. If gear oil is black as midnight and sludgy, it is usually heavy wear, and simply needs to be replaced. A small amount of fine metal shavings, usually stuck to the magnetized lower drain screw, is normal. If you find milky gear oil (or running water, which would have replaced your gear oil), or if you find chunks of metal, not shavings, there is an issue. Normally a pressure test, with some soapy water sprayed on the external oil seals: drive shaft, shift rod, and prop seals and into the bore of the lower casing will tell you very quickly where the leak is. Pressurize to about 8 PSI and look for bubbles. If the fat one is damaged, you will see bubbles forming at the forward section of the lower carrier, just forward of the main exhaust housing in the lower casing. Bubbles and leaks up high on the upper carrier and shift cover shift rod are easier to deal with. Chunks of metal, bubbles and leaks on the lower carrier either at the prop shaft or the main lower carrier o-ring, or a bent prop shaft and the lower carrier needs to come out.
@@outboardst.comoutboardspec8631 thank you! Your videos are awesome!
I'm a mobile guy in Florida, and I'm always looking for ways to make it easier to get those damn carriers out to replace the seals. Just ordered one, excited to try it out. like the fact that it doesnt crack & chip the carriers inner lip.
Thanks very much for your order, and we have had excellent results in our shop as well as with customers with this puller.
Awesome tool! I received mine in a few days and had shaft out in less than 30 minutes. The motor sat for over 3 years and is very crusty.
2007 Yamaha F150TXR
Vic, glad to hear our tools helped with your repairs. Thanks
Hi when you buy the bearing carrier does it come as an assembly ? Or do you need to buy every part individually?
OST-0024 Ships assembled, all parts included as well as additional hardware for working with bolt fastened carriers like on some Suzuki and Mercury
Where did you the lower unit holder its in?
Hi Chris, the gear case rack is from Kerr's Marine (Bob Kerr Marine Tool Co.) Central Florida. We've put that fixture to the test many times over and it has been awesome.
www.kerrsmarine.com/
How does it pull it off? Would tsis work on a 125hp mercury sorry if this is a silly question, im having a night mare trying to remove the baring carrier on my 125hp mercury and your vid makes this look simple. I need simple right now haha!
Our puller should be a fit for Merc. You can email me a photo of the lower at tyler@outboardst.com and I can verify if needed.
Very Interesting. Biggest selling point is that it fits all gearcases. Have you ever damaged a gear casing?
Fitting all gear cases was one of the goals with the design, but an additional selling point would be rarely if ever having to use a torch, eliminating a safety and time concern in most shops. Also, the puller offers a more efficient alignment and stays aligned, parallel to prop shaft and perpendicular to pulling surface, so force goes where it needs to go, creating a cleaner, easier extraction. We haven't had any casing damage yet and most of the gear cases we've tested on have been units that showed up in my shop for re-seal/rebuild in addition to the completely seized units that were pulled out of the scrap pile. There is potential to cause some casing damage, so we are looking at some bells and whistles to add to the kit so that any risk of damage to the casing is minimized.
I’ve work in a saltwater environment for over 20 years and have used this method, different tool setup with a lot of success. However I did have one that broke the leading side of the gear case. Still a good method because the other pullers usually damage the bearing carrier.
É um sacrifício sair
Mas é bem interessante essa ferramenta
You should have move 180 so you would be using your weight instead of pulling up on that wrench.
Thanks and appreciated, probably a great idea for most but for me its awkward. I do alot of things exactly backwards!
$270 bucks, like Snap on eh
Lol, I would not know. I own zero Snap On, but one day I will have some of their stuff for the shop. As a rule most of my hand tools that travel in the truck, have to be functional but inexpensive enough to be lost at the bottom of the river at the marina, or elsewhere and I lose no sleep.