Outboard Lower Unit Tear Down: Seals and Prop Shaft Repair Yamaha F90
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- Опубліковано 8 вер 2024
- Tyler Holland, Outboard Specialty Tools, showing methods and tools used to repair and replace leaking oil seals and prop shaft on a Yamaha F90 lower unit. Complete removal, inspection and re-seal on gear case. This video covers other topics along the way such as water pump replacement, pressure testing for leaks etc.
For Tools seen in this video and more information, please check out our website:
www.outboardst.com
Tools Used in this video:
OST-0024 Bearing Housing Puller
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OST-0001 Shift Wrench for Yamaha, Suzuki and Mercury
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Masterpiece repair & vry fruitful explaining of a text book case of burnt oil jamming yamaha's outboard gear vry terrific fix
Thanks!
FINALLY someone takes out the dang carrier!! thank you!
You are the goat. I have a f200xb 2015. You’ve taught me a lot. Where I need work or not.
Best video of this process yet. TY !
Thanks very Much!
Loved. No very much loved the video. Maybe just for me. Please just more info on things like tools, sealants, flushing items like mineral spirits but what are the various others. The lower unit workbench holder. Loved that. So just a tad more time on those. You may not think important. But a lot of people want the whole list. Like Me. I just now will spend more time looking for the items you discussed.
The work rack is fabricated by Kerr Marine Tools, Florida. They are awesome. Usually the primary sealant that I use for this type of work is Permatex Anaerobic. In most cases using a sealant is not necessary, but on older units with advanced corrosion on the outer casing, the sealant helps. As for tools, the tools we used in this video we a range of tools from specialized tools that we make in house to commonly used automotive and everyday tools off the hardware store shelf. The solvents I'd recommend for this type of work would include mineral spirits, but also acetone as well as either Corrosion-X or Kimball Midwest penetrating oils. Kimball is great for lighter duty work. With all of the chemicals used, I strongly recommend some level of PPE/gloves/eye protection etc. along with working in a very well ventilated space. I kept the fans off for most for some or all of the video to keep background noise to a minimum, but normally I keep the air moving in any enclosed work space.
@@outboardst.comoutboardspec8631 Sweet. Thank you for taking the time.
That was extremely well done and helpful! One thing I didn't see is how you got the 2 seals out with the seal puller. Where can a guy get a puller? Thank you for this great video!
Thank you for this very informative video ❤
All Good and thanks for watching!
WOW, what an excellent video!!! Would like to see the trick to remove the propshaft seals?
Brilliant. Thank you.
Thanks for checking us out!
Where are you located? I need some work done on my 1993 Yamaha 200
great video, thanks ! do you know anybone in the tri-state area who can swap out a bent propshaft on a vmax250 for me ?
Can you tell me the name of the product you're using to clean these parts (the red spray can)?
Red can would be Corrosion-X.
I'm having trouble breaking the retaining ring out any suggestions?
why did you have to remove the water pump ? why not just the shift shaft and bearing carrier ? also at 40:30 did you bend the tab in the wrong direction ? how does bending it forward stop the ring from coming loose, shouldnt it be bend over one of the slots in the carrier nut ?
Mostly a habit. Usually if we are resealing a lower in my shop, all the seals and o-rings are getting replaced. Shift cover seal, drive shaft seals and lower. Bending the tab in the wrong direction would be accidental.
may be confused but thats the dirties rebuild ive ever seen grit rust tarnish ?
You'd be correct, all of the above. I recommended new bearings etc, but gear set, pinion, was ok, shift good, minimal wear on clutch dog.
All bearings were definitely suspect. Owner said keep it cheap, bare minimum, which is what I did. At the time he was going to sell the boat, but decided to keep. 100+ hrs later, still good.
I have a lower water housing that is stuck and the repair facility unfortunately cracked it and still is not able to get it out. Any thoughts on how to get it out?
FYI, motor is a Yamaha 2005 90 2stroke
The lower housing on the 90 can be a challenge. can you send any available photos to tyler@outboardst.com. I want to see what the remnants look like.
@@outboardst.comoutboardspec8631
Thanks Tyler, I anticipate picking the lower unit up from the shop this week and will send photos. Appreciate the help
You make these type of tools in-house?
We do all of our design and concept/prototype in house. Nearly all of our assembly and prep is completed and inspected in house. About 80% of our steel tools are machined in the United States with the remaining 20% coming from our machinists outside the States.
There is a tool for removing the retaining ring, just saying, a little risky drilling….
Oh for sure there are many tools for the retainers, and I have to use a retainer wrench to reinstall the new retainer during re-assembly. The reason I usually always drill the retainers out is that once the salt water builds up some corrosion on the bottom/skeg side of the retaining ring, it will often deform the ring out of round to the point that most retaining ring tools won't even fit the ring and the scale deposit itself isnt going away peacefully. We go into some detail on this at the 3:18 mark. If the retaining ring goes out of round with a wedge of scale between the inner bore of the casing and the outer threads of the ring, it only comes out one way: in pieces.