That was extremely well done and helpful! One thing I didn't see is how you got the 2 seals out with the seal puller. Where can a guy get a puller? Thank you for this great video!
Sorry late reply. The specs can vary depending on model and hp. Allowable tolerances are listed in Yamaha's shop manuals, which are pricy and hard to find. Are you still working on this? If so send me a model/hp/year and I'll see what I can dig up
Loved. No very much loved the video. Maybe just for me. Please just more info on things like tools, sealants, flushing items like mineral spirits but what are the various others. The lower unit workbench holder. Loved that. So just a tad more time on those. You may not think important. But a lot of people want the whole list. Like Me. I just now will spend more time looking for the items you discussed.
The work rack is fabricated by Kerr Marine Tools, Florida. They are awesome. Usually the primary sealant that I use for this type of work is Permatex Anaerobic. In most cases using a sealant is not necessary, but on older units with advanced corrosion on the outer casing, the sealant helps. As for tools, the tools we used in this video we a range of tools from specialized tools that we make in house to commonly used automotive and everyday tools off the hardware store shelf. The solvents I'd recommend for this type of work would include mineral spirits, but also acetone as well as either Corrosion-X or Kimball Midwest penetrating oils. Kimball is great for lighter duty work. With all of the chemicals used, I strongly recommend some level of PPE/gloves/eye protection etc. along with working in a very well ventilated space. I kept the fans off for most for some or all of the video to keep background noise to a minimum, but normally I keep the air moving in any enclosed work space.
Just did my yamaha 150 hp replacing all of the lower unit oil seals. Used a puller and pulled out the prop bearing Carrier. Pressure tested and all looked good. Shifting seemed fine until I put the lower unit back on the motor. I took off in neutral and put back on in neutral, but there's now a grinding sound when shifting from neutral to in gear. The clutch dog seems go slipping in slowly and some time not engaging entirely. I'm not sure if it's an issue from the lower unit or if I need to adjust my cable linkages. Seems that if it came all together the same that the cable linkages shouldn't need to be touched. Not sure what to do.
If you are still working on this issue, I'd disconnect the control cables, check shift position at the linkage and run through the gear forward/neutral/reverse actuating the linkage by hand. There should be zero grinding or gear chatter. Align the shift linkage to its spec alignment and adjust shift cable to the aligned linkage. The sound you described while the motor is running is normally associated with a lower that has heavy wear on the clutch dog and forward/reverse gear set teeth where they mesh together. If there was no chatter in the lower when running pre tear down, and suddenly started chattering after re-assembly, there almost has to be an alignment issue somewhere or an issue with the control cables or control box.
I am replacing the water pump on my 225 hp Yamaha two-stroke. I noticed that when I spin the driveshaft by hand I can feel/hear the gears meshing together. Is this normal? I guess I was expecting it to be smooth like the prop shaft
If you are spinning the prop shaft in neutral by hand with engine not running, the gears and pinion are actually not moving, the clutch dog is in neutral position and doesn't touch the forward or reverse gears until shifted, the prop shaft and bearings are the only things moving. When you spin the drive shaft by hand in the same scenario, the pinion and gear set are in constant motion. Assuming the prop shaft and gear set bearings are in good shape, you shouldnt feel vibration coming from them. If you are spinning the drive shaft with the water pump off there may be noticeable play and vibration but this vibration is usually weight of the drive shaft flange pushing down on a thrust bearing near the upper part of the gear case/casing, it can rattle a bit especially if the gear oil has been drained from the lower. One of the important diagnostic checks I run during impeller replacement is, always with the water pump impeller off, go through the shift sequence, forward neutral reverse, spinning the prop shaft and drive shaft by hand along the way. One hand on drive shaft and the other on prop shaft, lifting up slightly on the drive shaft, the bearing chatter should disappear. When in gear spinning the prop shaft, the drive shaft should spin and the motion should be smooth with relatively little vibration in forward and reverse and the shafts should be able to spin freely of each other in neutral. The motion of the shift rod should be relatively smooth, but its normal to need to spin the drive shaft clockwise to rotate the shift rod through the full extent of its range.
@@outboardst.comoutboardspec8631 thanks. I wouldn’t describe the feeling as chatter or vibration/rattle necessarily, but I’m just “feeling” the gears meshing together. Like I can feel a slight bump as each tooth engages. Every 1.75 turns I pass a slight rough spot where it takes a little more effort. Maybe a bad tooth. But oil looked good so I’m going to run it for now I guess
why did you have to remove the water pump ? why not just the shift shaft and bearing carrier ? also at 40:30 did you bend the tab in the wrong direction ? how does bending it forward stop the ring from coming loose, shouldnt it be bend over one of the slots in the carrier nut ?
Mostly a habit. Usually if we are resealing a lower in my shop, all the seals and o-rings are getting replaced. Shift cover seal, drive shaft seals and lower. Bending the tab in the wrong direction would be accidental.
I have a lower water housing that is stuck and the repair facility unfortunately cracked it and still is not able to get it out. Any thoughts on how to get it out?
@@outboardst.comoutboardspec8631 Thanks Tyler, I anticipate picking the lower unit up from the shop this week and will send photos. Appreciate the help
We do all of our design and concept/prototype in house. Nearly all of our assembly and prep is completed and inspected in house. About 80% of our steel tools are machined in the United States with the remaining 20% coming from our machinists outside the States.
If you mix gear oil and water, the gear oil is not affected, it will just sit right on top of the water unless it is mixed vigorously, like inside a gear set at 3,000+ rpm, then it emulsifies, which alters with the viscosity for he worse. After the emulsion sits for a while, the water and oil separate back into layers. Add a bit of air into the gear case, which is very common in lowers with damaged seals, let the air and water do their dance, and any non-stainless steel not submerged in oil is on borrowed time.
You'd be correct, all of the above. I recommended new bearings etc, but gear set, pinion, was ok, shift good, minimal wear on clutch dog. All bearings were definitely suspect. Owner said keep it cheap, bare minimum, which is what I did. At the time he was going to sell the boat, but decided to keep. 100+ hrs later, still good.
Oh for sure there are many tools for the retainers, and I have to use a retainer wrench to reinstall the new retainer during re-assembly. The reason I usually always drill the retainers out is that once the salt water builds up some corrosion on the bottom/skeg side of the retaining ring, it will often deform the ring out of round to the point that most retaining ring tools won't even fit the ring and the scale deposit itself isnt going away peacefully. We go into some detail on this at the 3:18 mark. If the retaining ring goes out of round with a wedge of scale between the inner bore of the casing and the outer threads of the ring, it only comes out one way: in pieces.
FINALLY someone takes out the dang carrier!! thank you!
You are the goat. I have a f200xb 2015. You’ve taught me a lot. Where I need work or not.
Masterpiece repair & vry fruitful explaining of a text book case of burnt oil jamming yamaha's outboard gear vry terrific fix
Thanks!
Best video of this process yet. TY !
Thanks very Much!
Thank you for this very informative video ❤
All Good and thanks for watching!
thank you so much for every detail. For an amazing video.😅
That was extremely well done and helpful! One thing I didn't see is how you got the 2 seals out with the seal puller. Where can a guy get a puller? Thank you for this great video!
WOW, what an excellent video!!! Would like to see the trick to remove the propshaft seals?
What are the maximum end play and runout measurements on the propeller shaft after a rebuild? Thanks for the informative video.
Sorry late reply. The specs can vary depending on model and hp. Allowable tolerances are listed in Yamaha's shop manuals, which are pricy and hard to find. Are you still working on this? If so send me a model/hp/year and I'll see what I can dig up
Loved. No very much loved the video. Maybe just for me. Please just more info on things like tools, sealants, flushing items like mineral spirits but what are the various others. The lower unit workbench holder. Loved that. So just a tad more time on those. You may not think important. But a lot of people want the whole list. Like Me. I just now will spend more time looking for the items you discussed.
The work rack is fabricated by Kerr Marine Tools, Florida. They are awesome. Usually the primary sealant that I use for this type of work is Permatex Anaerobic. In most cases using a sealant is not necessary, but on older units with advanced corrosion on the outer casing, the sealant helps. As for tools, the tools we used in this video we a range of tools from specialized tools that we make in house to commonly used automotive and everyday tools off the hardware store shelf. The solvents I'd recommend for this type of work would include mineral spirits, but also acetone as well as either Corrosion-X or Kimball Midwest penetrating oils. Kimball is great for lighter duty work. With all of the chemicals used, I strongly recommend some level of PPE/gloves/eye protection etc. along with working in a very well ventilated space. I kept the fans off for most for some or all of the video to keep background noise to a minimum, but normally I keep the air moving in any enclosed work space.
@@outboardst.comoutboardspec8631 Sweet. Thank you for taking the time.
Just did my yamaha 150 hp replacing all of the lower unit oil seals. Used a puller and pulled out the prop bearing Carrier. Pressure tested and all looked good. Shifting seemed fine until I put the lower unit back on the motor. I took off in neutral and put back on in neutral, but there's now a grinding sound when shifting from neutral to in gear. The clutch dog seems go slipping in slowly and some time not engaging entirely. I'm not sure if it's an issue from the lower unit or if I need to adjust my cable linkages. Seems that if it came all together the same that the cable linkages shouldn't need to be touched. Not sure what to do.
Sorry late reply, did you resolve this issue?
If you are still working on this issue, I'd disconnect the control cables, check shift position at the linkage and run through the gear forward/neutral/reverse actuating the linkage by hand. There should be zero grinding or gear chatter. Align the shift linkage to its spec alignment and adjust shift cable to the aligned linkage. The sound you described while the motor is running is normally associated with a lower that has heavy wear on the clutch dog and forward/reverse gear set teeth where they mesh together. If there was no chatter in the lower when running pre tear down, and suddenly started chattering after re-assembly, there almost has to be an alignment issue somewhere or an issue with the control cables or control box.
great video, thanks ! do you know anybone in the tri-state area who can swap out a bent propshaft on a vmax250 for me ?
I am replacing the water pump on my 225 hp Yamaha two-stroke. I noticed that when I spin the driveshaft by hand I can feel/hear the gears meshing together. Is this normal? I guess I was expecting it to be smooth like the prop shaft
If you are spinning the prop shaft in neutral by hand with engine not running, the gears and pinion are actually not moving, the clutch dog is in neutral position and doesn't touch the forward or reverse gears until shifted, the prop shaft and bearings are the only things moving. When you spin the drive shaft by hand in the same scenario, the pinion and gear set are in constant motion. Assuming the prop shaft and gear set bearings are in good shape, you shouldnt feel vibration coming from them. If you are spinning the drive shaft with the water pump off there may be noticeable play and vibration but this vibration is usually weight of the drive shaft flange pushing down on a thrust bearing near the upper part of the gear case/casing, it can rattle a bit especially if the gear oil has been drained from the lower. One of the important diagnostic checks I run during impeller replacement is, always with the water pump impeller off, go through the shift sequence, forward neutral reverse, spinning the prop shaft and drive shaft by hand along the way. One hand on drive shaft and the other on prop shaft, lifting up slightly on the drive shaft, the bearing chatter should disappear. When in gear spinning the prop shaft, the drive shaft should spin and the motion should be smooth with relatively little vibration in forward and reverse and the shafts should be able to spin freely of each other in neutral. The motion of the shift rod should be relatively smooth, but its normal to need to spin the drive shaft clockwise to rotate the shift rod through the full extent of its range.
@@outboardst.comoutboardspec8631 thanks. I wouldn’t describe the feeling as chatter or vibration/rattle necessarily, but I’m just “feeling” the gears meshing together. Like I can feel a slight bump as each tooth engages. Every 1.75 turns I pass a slight rough spot where it takes a little more effort. Maybe a bad tooth. But oil looked good so I’m going to run it for now I guess
I'm having trouble breaking the retaining ring out any suggestions?
why did you have to remove the water pump ? why not just the shift shaft and bearing carrier ? also at 40:30 did you bend the tab in the wrong direction ? how does bending it forward stop the ring from coming loose, shouldnt it be bend over one of the slots in the carrier nut ?
Mostly a habit. Usually if we are resealing a lower in my shop, all the seals and o-rings are getting replaced. Shift cover seal, drive shaft seals and lower. Bending the tab in the wrong direction would be accidental.
Brilliant. Thank you.
Thanks for checking us out!
Where are you located? I need some work done on my 1993 Yamaha 200
I have a lower water housing that is stuck and the repair facility unfortunately cracked it and still is not able to get it out. Any thoughts on how to get it out?
FYI, motor is a Yamaha 2005 90 2stroke
The lower housing on the 90 can be a challenge. can you send any available photos to tyler@outboardst.com. I want to see what the remnants look like.
@@outboardst.comoutboardspec8631
Thanks Tyler, I anticipate picking the lower unit up from the shop this week and will send photos. Appreciate the help
You make these type of tools in-house?
We do all of our design and concept/prototype in house. Nearly all of our assembly and prep is completed and inspected in house. About 80% of our steel tools are machined in the United States with the remaining 20% coming from our machinists outside the States.
Can you tell me the name of the product you're using to clean these parts (the red spray can)?
Red can would be Corrosion-X.
السلام عليكم عندي الدفع الى الخلف لا تعمل وكل شىء ممتاز تجبد كثرا بش تفوت
Shouldn't there be a gear oil that is not affected by water? I'd think by now that would already be a thing.
If you mix gear oil and water, the gear oil is not affected, it will just sit right on top of the water unless it is mixed vigorously, like inside a gear set at 3,000+ rpm, then it emulsifies, which alters with the viscosity for he worse. After the emulsion sits for a while, the water and oil separate back into layers. Add a bit of air into the gear case, which is very common in lowers with damaged seals, let the air and water do their dance, and any non-stainless steel not submerged in oil is on borrowed time.
may be confused but thats the dirties rebuild ive ever seen grit rust tarnish ?
You'd be correct, all of the above. I recommended new bearings etc, but gear set, pinion, was ok, shift good, minimal wear on clutch dog.
All bearings were definitely suspect. Owner said keep it cheap, bare minimum, which is what I did. At the time he was going to sell the boat, but decided to keep. 100+ hrs later, still good.
There is a tool for removing the retaining ring, just saying, a little risky drilling….
Oh for sure there are many tools for the retainers, and I have to use a retainer wrench to reinstall the new retainer during re-assembly. The reason I usually always drill the retainers out is that once the salt water builds up some corrosion on the bottom/skeg side of the retaining ring, it will often deform the ring out of round to the point that most retaining ring tools won't even fit the ring and the scale deposit itself isnt going away peacefully. We go into some detail on this at the 3:18 mark. If the retaining ring goes out of round with a wedge of scale between the inner bore of the casing and the outer threads of the ring, it only comes out one way: in pieces.