Outboard seal replacement - propeller - drive shaft - shift
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- Опубліковано 23 кві 2023
- This is a video on rebuilding an outboard lower unit.
Thought it may help if you are wanting to replace your seals in your lower unit.
Although it’s a gear case from a small Hp outboard, the principals are the same for bigger lower units so this video will be useful to get familiar with the process.
You can of course use bearing pullers for the bearing in the rear bearing carrier but I decided to just use very simple tools to show it is not hard.
Cheers,
Aussie Boat Guy 😎 - Авто та транспорт
Another quality video.
Cheers mate.
Bit if a long one but I hope it helps someone
cheers
Aussie Boat Guy 😎
@The Aussie boat guy. can't wait for modified gearcase video. Planning to do similar mods to my sons raceboat.
Top vid. Top tips. Thanks
Hi champion 👋
Thanks for your encouragement, sorry for the delay in reply.
All the best,
Aussie Boat Guy 😎
good you mate. Thanks for sharing
Thanks mate 👌
hope it helps someone.
cheers
Aussie Boat Guy 😎
Thanks Sir nice and clear
Hi Champion,
Thanks and your welcome
All the best,
Aussie Boat Guy 😎
Great videos, I have a couple of 5hp Mercury's I'm playing with as a little project. Any tips on getting the outer bearing carrier out?
I have one that is frozen in!
Hi Mate,
Unfortunately they can get very stuck if your talking about the lower unit rear bearing carrier.
I find that if you put the motor on its back (prop shaft to the ground) place the skeg on a block of timber and use a slide hammer on the prop shaft it normally pops out.
make sure to keep the power head higher than the lower unit if there is any drops of water in the leg as they can run into the exhaust ports and cause rust very quickly.
cheers 🍻
Aussie Boat Guy 😎
Here a small update on my bearing matter. I ordered an aftermarket 6002 one just to test for my 5hp Merc. They sent an "Parsun" bearing....doh.... At first glance it appeared good, rolling smooth and very little play. It had the markings 6002 P5 and C&U. I was about to install it but then tested rolling it with som axial load.....no good. There was som small "resistance" every now and then, not much but still easy to notice. It would maybe smooth out during use, but wont take the risk. Next test: Purchased a SKF 6002, mad in italy, marking 00 089W. According to specs P5 grade. This was smooth what ever load. Maybe a fraction more play than the Parsun, but otherwise better. Just for fun, when ordering other Tohatsu spare parts( from BoatsNet/USA), had also a OEM Tohatsu bearing. This one is marked 6002 NACHI JAPAN. Technically feels identical to the SKF, can not tell any difference other than the marking, price was also about the same, 10 euros. Tohatsu ones are cheaper than Mercury, probably same part though. For this application would use SKF as a replacement in case don't hav the time to wait for OEM part shipment. Parsun...no, don't do it!
Hi mate,
Thanks for the update, very interesting 🤔
I normally buy from Tohatsu for my Japan built Mercury motors (most of the time the Mercury parts fit those motors are from Japan anyway) and my Tohatsu parts supplier is lovely 😊
One of the reasons why I don’t like the non genuine bearings is even if they feel good they are unproven to me in a motor install situation.
Also if used on a crank the standard bearings don’t have the anti spin pin.
Good research though and totally agree with no Parson.
Cheers 🍻
Aussie Boat Guy 😎
I have learned a lot from you! Thanks for taking the time to respond to everyone's questions! Here is another question- On a 5 HP Two Stroke Mercury, does it make any difference what grade or octane gas I should be running?
Thanks Again!
Hi mate,
Thanks for your comments, I really appreciate it 👌
The fuel really doesn’t make much of a difference, I personally run 98 octane but that is me 😂
I run 50 to 1 fuel to oil In my two strokes so every 5 liters it’s 100ml of two stroke outboard oil.
Cheers 🍻
Aussie Boat Guy 😎
Thanks! Keep those videos coming! Two stroke Outboards rule!@@25hpboatracerman
Was going to say you created a little nose cone, looked smart too,,,,
Yeah, I’m hoping to make some more cones soon 👍
cheers 🍻
Aussie Boat Guy 😎
Great video, thanks! Extremely helpful! Did this on my old merc 5hp. Toughest thing was to get out the bearing carrier in one piece...One question about the shaft bearing(6002). Pending where You live, can take a while to get the original mercury or Tohatsu brand bearing. What do You think, would a SKF or som good Japanese 6002 type bearing work? Not sure about the tolerance, maybe C3 in this application? On the Parsun ones(straight copy) reads 6002 P5, not sure how that is compared to C3 or C2 specs?
Hi mate,
Thanks for your encouragement 😊
I always use the factory bearings, they also have a factory locator pin on the factory bearings. I reckon that you could use an aftermarket bearing but I would remove the dust caps as per the original but I do not recommend, just order the factory bearings.
Cheers 🍻
Aussie Boat Guy 😎
@@25hpboatracerman I fully agree regarding the engine bearings. Regarding the gear case, I am pretty sure the OEM ones are just standard good quality open bearings, the problem is that we don't know the specification( Internal clearance) so yeah, better use tohatsu or mercury bearings anyway.
@@XSAILOR65
Hi mate,
Yeah, it’s just easier to get the original for sure.
It’s annoying that they take a while to arrive for you, I’m very lucky, I normally have my parts within a week 😁.
Cheers 🍻
Aussie Boat Guy 😎
Thank you
Hi Mate,
My pleasure 😊
Thanks for your encouragement
cheers 🍻
Aussie Boat Guy 😎
I'm currently rebuilding my lower unit on a Tohatsu M5B 5hp two stroke. Firstly, thank you very much for many of your videos. Secondly, I have a question... dry fitting the drive shaft to the pinion gear, I've noticed when engaging forward, there's little lash between the gears when turning the drive shaft by hand (feels normal). However, when reverse is selected, there's a full rotation of the drive shaft before lash it taken up on the prop shaft. Does this seem normal? Thank you again
Hi Mate,
thanks for your comments 👍
The lash your talking about could actually be the rod clutch and not the lash between gears. Yes I is often normal to have a turn until you see the prop spin after being in forward gear. the gear cases are often around a 2 to 1 ratio and with the play in the fog clutch gears that sit into the reverse or forwards gears it will take about a turn of the driveshaft for the prop shaft to engage.
Cheers 🍻
Aussie Boat Guy 😎
@@25hpboatracerman Appreciate the speedy reply mate. I reassembled the unit today, thanks to your video. Put oil in it and spun the drive shaft by hand. I can't help feel there's an issue. Turning either by drive shaft or prop shaft, the gears have have a mild resistance to them. You can also feel them meshing when turning the prop shaft. It's not smooth like it was before I disassembled. I have changed the water pump impeller and the drive shaft and gear selector shaft seals. I noticed when I removed the drive shaft, the small pinion gear seem to float around on the transmission gears... but it still lined up and I was able to reinstall the drive shaft. No problem with the gear selector mechanism... pop, straight in and works fine. I can't help but think something is not aligned properly with the pinion gear. Is it possible to upset this gearing by removing the drive shaft, but keeping the propellor shaft installed? Apologies for the long-winded reply :(
Great video and well done! I have a question- My gear oil is leaking out of the top of the shift shaft bushing. Can I replace the "O" rings without dismantling the gear box? You did not show us how to remove the shift shaft. Thanks, keep the videos coming!
Hi mate,
Cheers, appreciate your comments 👌
Yes on that case you can just replace the o rings with disassembling the whole lower unit.
If it’s the same as that gearcase just undo the one bolt that holds the shift seal down and pull the whole shift shaft out.
Some other lower units are different and you need to be carful to keep your lower unit upright and still (it may have a shifter inside that the shift shaft slides into that you do not want to fall off its seat in the lower unit)
Normally the twist shift lower units are harder with that shifter inside with the shift shaft that slides into splines in the shifter.
Some of the old OMC units had to come apart completely to remove the shifter as well.
What is your lower unit from??
All the best.
Aussie boat Guy 😎
Thanks!!! My lower end is from a Mercury 1994 5 HP Two Stroke. It is exactly the same as the one you rebuilt in this video. So all I need to do is pull it up and out? Then replace the"O" rings and slide it back in?
Thanks in advance!
@@gregkobylarz8648
Hi mate,
Yep, that’s the go 👌👌
Just make sure you slide the shift shaft back in with the shifter end facing the same way, you will see what I’m talking about when you slide it out. It has a three level end on the shaft that needs to face the rear of the case.
Cheers 🍻
Aussie Boat Guy 😎
Thanks! You have been more than helpful!!
hi, i have a 1987 STRAIGHT 6 115 HP merc. The leg was stuck in forward.. When i pulled it apart i found 3 ball bearings rolling around . Are they what holds the shifter shaft in gear.. I noticed the gear shift shaft rotated but didn't click or lock into gear.. is it possible to phone you. Do you also do parts ?
Hi Mate,
It does sound like a dog clutch issue, I would probably call my local outboard wreckers to see if they had a box I could purchase, especially if there has been some free bearings in there while running.
Cheers 🍻
Aussie Boat Guy 😎
Vielen Dank
Das ist in Ordnung
Aussie Boat Guy 😎
Hi great video just a question i have a 210 Quintrex legend center console boat with a 60 hp Mercury engine i think its a bigfoot its hard to shift in to gear i have taken control cables off and it shifts smoothly so must be at the engine end any ideas i can do to make it change smoother thank you
Hi mate,
It could be a number of issues unfortunately.
I would remove the gearcase and see how the shift system works without the box on. I would then check the gearbox shift while it’s off and hopefully it’s an easy fix. It could be a bit of salt buildup somewhere.
Cheers 🍻
Aussie Boat Guy 😎
@@25hpboatracerman Thank you much appreciated
My prop doesn’t move at all is this the way to fix that or could it be something else
Hi Mate,
It could be many things like -
Spun prop shaft, broken prop shaft, broken drive shaft, gear selector issues etc etc.
I would remove the prop and see if prop shaft spins when motor is in gear motor running to start.
Cheers 🍻
Aussie Boat Guy 😎
I have a Mercury 110- 9.8 hp. Was going to replace the shift shat seal and O ring. The retainer looks to be aluminum with a set screw you remove and then remove the retainer. Removed the screw but the retainer is really tight. Tried putting Vice grips around top edge with moderate pressure and leveraging it up but it did not budge. I was informed that the shift shaft cam does not have a pin to hold it to the shaft so you have to hold down on the shift shaft while taking the retainer out, so it does not come up out of the cam splines. It it comes out of the splines the whole gearcase has to be disassembled to line it back up. Any suggestions on how to extract this retainer as it is round and nowhere, I see to pry on it. Not sure it is leaking and may leave it alone unless it gets water in the gearcase. The single driveshaft oil seal comes already installed in the lower half of the new water pump housing that just pries up with an outer O ring sealing it in the bore.
Hi Mate,
Sounds pretty normal for the older motors, I go through stuck stuff all the time. I would possibly leave it and do the other seals like you said because of the risk of damaging the seal carrier.
Keep an eye on if water is penetrating your oil and commit to changing if needed.
Cheers 🍻
Aussie Boat Guy 😎
@@25hpboatracerman Yeah resigned to that path. Thanks for the response.
What do you recommend replacing when my gear oil is leaking out at the bottom in between my gear case and my propeller?
Hi Mate,
I would firstly make sure it’s gear oil and not just un- burnt two stroke oil or if it’s a four stroke engine oil.
If it’s gear oil you will be able to smell it, it’s very pungent. it is pretty normal for a two stroke to have a black oil seeping out on occasion which is un- burnt two stroke.
if it is however gear oil, it could be your rear prop shaft seal or even your dive shaft seal.
you can pressure test your gearcase to see where it’s leaking unless you can pull your prop off and see a leak.
cheers 🍻
Aussie Boat Guy 😎
@@25hpboatracerman I have a 2 stroke Mercury. I mix the oil in with the gas and it doesn’t smell like gas so I assume it’s gear oil. I will check to see how low my gear oil is when I get another quart. Just wanted to get your thoughts..
I bought a motor already taken apart for the prop shaft got a new prop shaft and can’t get it figured out. I thought I did but it wouldn’t engage reverse
Hi Champion,
That’s super annoying 🤦♂️
It’s most likely missing the one of the little spacers in the end of the prop shaft that push the dog clutch. There is normally supposed to be two on that model, I think I cover that in the video.
One spacer with rounded ends and one shorter one with square ends on the round spacer.
Without the correct spacers, it won’t select gears properly.
On a good note, easy fix if it’s that.
Cheers 🍻
Aussie Boat Guy 😎
do you have a link to this seal kit?
Hi mate,
I just order my parts directly from Tohatsu. I ordered them all separate but I do think you can get a lower unit rebuild kit.
Just get in touch with Tohatsu or search online.
Cheers 🍻
Aussie Boat Guy 😎
can anyone tell me the dimensions of the semmering and the bearing for mercury 4hp 2 stork 1990
Hi mate,
not sure what a semmering is?
cheers 🍻
Aussie Boat Guy 😎
it's a rubber😀