Changing Prop Shaft Seals - Safe Tips & Tricks
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- Опубліковано 22 лип 2019
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Enjoyed the video. Now have confidence in a having a go myself.
Mercury Verado 4.8 process.
How about repacking a prop shaft on an inboard boat ?
My favorite method, is the one where I bring it to you, and you do it 😂
Nice job again, to keep Murphy’s from entering, I believe I will use the small flat head screw driver instead of the drywall screw method. Thank you for all you do to help people like myself, that has more time than money. You are awesome my friend, Thanks Robert
This channel is so well done and perfectly articulated! Great Job BAB!
Thank you!
I might have a blown seal but I have a 2020 75hp mercury. How can you tell which ones this doesn’t work for?
I am not a Marine Technician, but I really enjoy your classes.
That's awesome! Thank you so much! :)
being in the business for over 30 years
one of my favorite sayings is
" you can have it FAST or you can have it RIGHT "
Or,, we do it fast, good, and cheap. You can have any two. :)
I used the drywall screw method ,, I used painters tape around the shaft to protect it and it worked like a champ .. I opted to throw and o ring between the seals just for added piece of mind .. this is an easy driveway fix but ridiculous price at a shop .. thanks man
painters tape ain't going to stop a screw. If you are too close to the shaft the painters tape ain't going to do anything
Nicely done video. Tried method one, could not get the drywall screws to seat into the bearing, even after trying to drill a pilot hole. After over an hour, ended up using a dremel tool to cut into the seal (away from the shaft) and basically tear and pry the seal with a seal puller. Took couple hours and lots of patience, especially the inner seal, but finally prevailed. This job is not for the faint of heart or impatient!
I'll be replacing the seals on my 80 Evinrude 15. After watching this video I'm confident I can do it correctly. I think I'll try the drywall screw method first. And, thankyou for stressing how important it is not to scratch the prop shaft!
All I can say: Your videos are awesome! Thanks for doing them.
Wow, thank you!
Awesome idea with oring in between seals! I never heard that one.
There was quite a bend in that shaft 😉
The O-ring acts as a spacer hopefully relocating the seal to a spot on the shaft without any scratches or nicks!
Clear and concise, very well done
Thank you so much for this video!!!!! I used the flat screw driver technique and it worked like a charm!!! Thank you again!!!!!
Awesome!
Excellent video thank you - i have a Honda BF15A circa 1995 and will certainly need these tips to change water seal ...thanks
You are welcome!
Awesome video. How big is the PVC pipe used to install the seals?
Thanks, drywall screw trick worked great.
Thanks for a great video. My first time changing all the seals. I used the screwdriver and the seal puller. I just took my time, the first one took more time than the second one. Do you have a video of changing the upper shaft seals?
Last night I gave this a go. I love to analyze the work that I’m going to do. HUGE TIP for everyone that wants to remove everything. I know there’s a proper tool on removing the whole assembly. So I got this idea and it work amazing !. After removing the propeller and the 4 screws or whatever you have. I decided to run a ratchet strap and feed it through the holes. I came back up and tide a knot. I made sure I had a great loop because in between I used a small jack that comes in your vehicles. I jacked it up where I created tension with the loop I created with the ratchet strap. That thing work perfectly and I was able to get the whole assembly. There’s many ways to go about it. Best thing is to not be afraid and do it right.
Nice . I need photos or a sketch to understand though.
I’ve been swapping new oil into my leaking lower unit every couple of months….but now I will change them….thanks for visual courage
Thank u for all ur videos thy had taught me alot just got me a pair of Johnson 150 outboards
On a Yamaha F50 I have used 3 6mm high propshaft seals, instead of 2 factory fitted seals. The inner seal remained intact even if outer two were severely damaged by fishing line or braid. worked great.
The flathead screw driver is good. Less harmful to the prop shaft. Great job.
What o ring tool kit did you have there in that red box. Thanks for the video.
Dude!... excellent job on the video. The drywall screw trick was amazing. I understand the risks, and will probably get a puller to help avoid them, but what an option to have when you can't get your hands on a specialized tool like a seal puller. I really enjoyed your thorough explanation of all of the processes. The clear instructions give me hope that I'll be able to replace the seals on a 2004 Honda 90hp that I recently came by. Wish me luck!
Good luck! :) take your time and be careful, you shouldn't have any trouble if you just go slow and pay attention :)
@@BornAgainBoating So I went ahead and pulled the whole bearing carrier. However, I still can't get the prop shaft to come out. What am I missing? Do I need to pull the shift shaft to get the prop shaft to come the rest of the way out? I want to check all the gears and replace the bearings/seals... so that I don't have to worry about this motor when I put it on the water.
Thanks bud, I’ll be heading to ALASKA next week, and need to do this! Cheers
Wow another great one thanks
Thank you!
Great content! Bought a fancy seal puller slide hammer to be safe and didn’t work so had to resort to the dry wall screw method. Stayed away from the inner shaft however when trying the flat head pry method I went a little to deep and damaged the outside of the carrier bearing lip that the seal sits on.. I believe it’s just there to make space between the seals so it doesn’t sit ontop of the bearing. Do you think I will be alright letting it ride or replace the carrier housing to be safe?
thank you for these videos. Has Saved me a ton of money and time!!
You are so welcome!
Really enjoy your informative videos! Going to be doing this to my 1955 15 hp Evinrude. Thanks for making this great video! Just yanked the prop shaft seal this evening. Good thing I did it before taking it out on the water. All the seals are shot.
Man great video i half to change my seals this video was a big help thank you
Another great, informative video... Thank you!
Thank you!
Really enjoy your videos. I like this type of work.
Thank you!
Thanks always for your hard work putting together the informative videos, great job very much appreciated. So you asked which method do I prefer, the easy answer is the one that works lol. I am working on my twin Mercury 3.0 225's replacing the seals. I started with the starboard OB which has the outer seal installed incorrectly. Attempting to drive a screw in the seal was a no go the screw did not even scratch the seal, so I attempted to drive a self tapping screw, and it just danced on the seal. Time for a pilot hole, not a chance and I do not have long tungsten bit too drill straight 90 deg. to the seal case. Adding a center punch proved to be unhelpful with out a long bit. So I moved to the method of taping along the edge no good. 3rd try is the destruction method yes the destruction method as the seal just was not cooperating. Not sure what was used to install the seal but it seems to be fused to the carrier, and the destruction is all that seems to be happening. HELP! How much heat can be applied safely to the carrier and seal case? Can the seals be pressed out if the carrier is removed, need your help.
" I do not have long tungsten bit too drill straight 90 deg" --> Just get 6mm (1/4") Bar and braze onto end of Drill Bit to make a custom extra long extension. Have done this successfully may times.
Many Thanks for this - just tried the screw driver technique. Wasn't very difficult to just slowly work around and deform the old oil seals in by wedging a small flat head screw driver in between the casing and the oil seal. As Aaron says just be careful not to go anywhere near the prop shaft and orient the screw driver as much as possible so it is not angled towards the outer casing either. Only took about 10 minutes and once the seal is deformed enough it will come out pretty easily (you'll see it start to move).
Problem was though I went a little too deep in places when deforming the lower oil seal. So the screw driver came into contact with the steel bearing housing behind the lower oil seal. So this has left a couple of little nicks in that bearing housing. This potentially opens a gap between it and the new oil seals which I guess will reduce the seal efficiency?
I just removed any sharp edges on those nicks and pressed any deformation out with the screw driver as best I could but just though I'd warn people about this. Particularly as you can actually feel when the screw driver makes contact with that bearing housing. When hitting the screw driver with a hammer it should sound a little dull and soft when you are between the oil seal and the outer casing. When the screw driver makes contact with the steel bearing housing it will feel and sound rock hard. At that point don't give it another couple of taps like I did and you'll be fine.
If you do just make sure you use some gasket sealer as in Aaron advises as even more important and also if there are scratches from the screw driver on the inside of the outer casing.
Good tips I will let you know how it goes. For the seal installation would you clarify the direction of the seals. One side of the seal is open, which way should they face on a mercury 97 225 with a 4.75 housing.
Brilliant no nonsense video, very helpful, thanks 👍
Glad you liked it!
great video showing different techniques to do this. what size pvc pipe was that you used to press down the seals?
Awesome knowledge!!!
Carrier would NOT come off; I don’t have a puller. Drywall screw method ROCKED! Your video is so well done, I was confident enough to pull it off. Thanks tons!
You're welcome
Just did my upper and lower seals. The lower seals I used the dry wall screw trick, worked great! Question tho, in the video it says you can try to flip the seals....why would that work if you just drilled a hole through them?
Here it is! Technician’s Tuesday!
Yeah buddy!
Looking at the closeup of seal, I noticed the grease fitting. How often do you grease the shaft?
Great video!!! Really helpful!!! I was wondering, I have 2000 Honda bf30. Does Honda use both the seals facing out? Thanks!!!
Like the screwdriver method with the seal puller
Excellent instruction!! Do you believe this job can be done without removing the lower unit from the outboard (1985 Yamaha 40hp)? The outboard would also be mounted to the transom. Or maybe it is a big advantage removing the lower unit that I'm not seeing...
I noticed a grease fitting which I’m thinking is for the shaft. How often do you grease it?
New to outboards from a straight inboard.
Thanks Aaron! Gonna do this on my 8 hp Yammie. Just pulled water pump housing and bearing plate off of it, had milky gear oil. Glad I looked at it, you should've seen the salt buildup! 😳
Lol yeah they can get bad :)
Is it the 2 stroke one I might have to do this
Exactly the video I needed. I see that you've attracted a few hater comments, but I thought you did a decent job of explaining the risks of this DYI method.
I appreciate that!
Great job made simple thanks w.a.
Glad you liked it!
your videos are always top-notch knowledge thanks hopefully this will save me a few hundred bucks
Thanks Man.
I do the flat screwdriver and use 2 picks . Easy Peasy . just be mindful of the shaft and install seals with the first ones spring pointing in and the second with the spring pointing out back to back with springs opposite each other .
That is not as per Yamaha manual. Both seals should be facing outwards with the spring towards the prop.
Great video. Thanks.
Like the drywall screws. Did that on my front cam shaft seal on a Toyota van .
I have used the screw method on my alpha one lower unit. Worked great!
can this be done on a alpha 1 gen 2 ? can i pull out seals without removing the carrier ?
@@TheOne4Wisdom Yes.
Do you have any videos of complete lower unit repairs bearings ect on Johnson’s.
When you clean the shaft at 5:35 to 5:40 it looks as if the prop shaft is bent
If the shaft is damaged, Speedi-sleeves work well. I've used them in hydraulic pump applications. Good video.
Is there a Speedi sleeve for the Yamaha prop shaft?
Oh my oh my what happens when it gives up 20 miles off the coast and blows your gears up? Leaving you bobbing in the water like a cork ? Lol don’t listen to these butchers! This is nothing to play with. People die from mistakes like this!
thank you sir!!!,,very helpful,,
No worries, thank you!
Well done. I was afraid I would need to do this, however water in my lower unit was caused by a missing washer on one of the drain screws.
That'll do it 4 sure
Ohh... I may love you. I have water in my lower. I did notice one of the plugs didn’t have a washer. I guess it didn’t click. I ordered seal anyways. May just do them for preventative maintenance
Great info guys
Glad it was helpful!
I love watching your videos! I am looking forward to tackling my 300 hour service on my Verado when the time comes. Any ideas for a lower unit stand ?
Thank you! Lol they are super easy :) actually, we just wrote about that lower unit stand lol www.bornagainboating.com/lower-unit-stand/
My F150 yamaha fits perfectly in a 20qt yeti (on the diagonal) :-)
At beginning of video you used a pressure test to check lower unit. What kind of tester do you use???
Working on a 03 150 saltwater xl, the seals for this mercury needs to be place back to back correct?
I prefer as I already have a few months ago, paid a ''technician'' like yourself to do it for me. All of them, every seal possible. I only know how to really wreck stuff, versus change them. (Don't slam your prop into rocks folks...your seals will eventually leak)
Hahhaha that is a great method ;) and advise! lol
Can this method work on replacing the drive shaft oil seals under the water pump?
You must do motor repair full time. Best videos. So is the driveshaft seal done the same way? I have Etec 40HP 2011. Im going to tear into the lower unit and want to replace everything where water may intrude as oil is milky. Bought it used and apparently they changed the oil before I bought and snuck this by me. Next time I will know that you take the boat out then check the oil.
Hi, the screw method will works on mercury seals that the seals are in aluminum? Thanks !
Great video
It amazes me how he never gets any stains on his clothes. That were me, I'd have to throw that shirt away.
My seal bore is all nicked up and the seals wont go in smooth. What would you use to clean that surface up? I tried to push new seals in but i couldnt get them to sit straight because of the burrs in the bore so now I'm trying to get those seals out again
What size pvc pipe do you use?
Always great videos, Always very interesting. What is the theory on facing the lip seals out. The Yamaha LU's are prone to lose oil and to getting water in them? I think that's why someone had installed the inner seal with the lip facing the oil and the outer facing the water. Do Mercury's both face out? Just curious what you've seen to work best. I have a VMAX 250 07 I'm getting close to changing seals on.
One lower you show has a grease fitting, how often should you grease it and how many shots?
Thanks for your insight.....
Great Question. Why the difference in how manufactures approach sealing the prop shaft. The demonstration video the Yamaha method has the seals facing each other. For the Mercury 2 Strokes the seals lips oppose one another with the lip facing inward for the first seal and outward for the outer seal.
Love the channel man!! I’m a Yamaha tech up in New York been doing this for 3 years love seeing different ways for doing jobs and how others go about it. I’ve learned for a lot of things that their is no right way to do a job but some ways are easier and quicker just gotta find the the best one. Keep the vids going man best of luck to you👍
That's awesome! You totally right, sometimes you just have to make it work lol Thank you!
I just drained the engine oil on my 2021 Suzuki df70 and saw a very faint white in with the oil color. I did hit a rock with the prop. Guessing this might be my issue. Question is, I used the engine for about an hour or two in low RPMS after since noticing this. The white was so light, do you think my engine is safe? Took it to the dealer where they are going to charge me my soul to find out what it is and fix. Any help here would be nice…. Thank you! 💪🏼
What did you do about the bent propshaft ?
Nice video 👍🏽🇺🇸
What's best, 2 factory seals with O-ring in the middle; or 3 factory seals ? Can you do both? Just asking.
Will this method work on an old 2000 optimax ?
I have a mercury 115 EFI 4 stroke what propeller do you recommend
I need y'all to do a Stator and the voltage regulator soon.
That will be a great video, not sure when we will get a chance to though :/ things like that sort of go by the job. Plus it's hard because of all of the different stator's and regulators out there that the readings and procedures are different :(
On my yamaha f150 from 2005. there was only one oil seal originaly. First time I noticed water in oil on 2000 hours now it is 17 years old. Is it correct that it has only one rubber seal on prop shaft? Should I put in two seals like in service manual diagram? Thanks
Great job showing us these tips. I'd like to try this on my 75 Opti sometime this fall, but can you tell me why this might not work on Mercury lower units? By the way, 2 observations...1. you really need to get yourself a new hammer! 2. I think that prop shaft had a little excessive run-out :) Great video, thanks again!
Thank you! This might work on your Opti, but a lot of Mercs have the prop shaft seals inside and protected by the bearing carrier. ua-cam.com/video/YtivxsdwEqY/v-deo.html fast forward to 3:30 for the seals :) Hahaha everybody hates my hammer lol yeah, that gear case was trashed, just used it for an example lol Thank you!
@@BornAgainBoating good
to hear I was gonna say the propshaft is bent
First off: I really appreciate your videos and demonstrating various projects. Super! Secondly I had heard that permatex aviation gasket sealer was identical to and a substitute for the omc one. Do you know if that is true?
Thank you! I'm not really sure about the gasket sealing compound comparison. I could see it being true, since Bombardier owns OMC and they are huge in the aviation world. So if it's an aviation gasket sealer, then it might be similar. For this application you should be fine with using the permatex if that's what you have :)
Yes its a good recommended substitute. Get a little tub of it at advance auto! I did fir my Evinrude!
Do you know if the screw method works on a '95 Mercury 175xri? Or if it won't work, which bearing carrier removal tool I need for this lower unit?
Best to replace prop shaft seal every so many years or wait for failure?
Will this method work on old Mercury Two strokes? Elpto 90?
hi i have a 2007 etec 250, would u mind telling me what size Oring will be good for it?
Great Job
Thank you!
Hi! Nice video. Will this be possible on a Volvo Penta 290 SP?
Thank you for your question! Please post it in our Born Again Boating Community! Go here and scroll down to access - it’s free: www.bornagainboating.com/
Very useful videos.
Thank you!
I have a 200 hpdi and I noticed water in the lower unit when I was changing the oil. Watched your awesome videos on how to remove the seals. Looks like the shaft seals were leaking, the spring was corroded. I could not remove the carrier with two screwdrivers but used a seal puller from harbor freight which worked great. I placed the hook end under the carrier and tapped it upward with a hammer, alternating sides. The carrier came out with no issues. Do I have to replace the prop shaft seals if I replace the shaft seals? Thank you.
You'll want to run a pressure test and see if the prop shaft seals are leaking, if they aren't then you don't have to mess with them :)
What is the blue grease applied at the end?
what type of grease do you use
I use the screw method. I notice you said both seals with spring facing up, toward the prop. The manual I bought for my Yamaha shows and says first seal in spring to oil and second seal in spring towards the prop. Is my book wrong? I havnt had any issues but if your way comes from yamaha I'll start doing it that way. I have a 150 and twin 200s and do all my own work.
Excellent channel BTW. Especially like the fiberglass vids
No your book is not wrong. You should always have first seal facing in to hold oil in and second out holding water out.
To repair a damaged seal area on the shaft I have used a speedy sleeve with success to restore the shaft where the seal runs.
Are you located in south Florida. Fort Lauderdale area???
Wish I'd seen this video before I changed my leaking seals. I fabbed up a 2 jaw pulled with chains and hooks to pull the carrier, after buying the special spanner socket. I will probably try the drywall screw method next time. Thanks so much for the videos and info. I went over my trailer today after being inspired by your trailer video last night
Awesome! Just be careful of the props haft with the screws! If you're not that comfortable with it, predrill the holes for the screws :)
I have the DPSM VP. Thought about all these methods but finally invested in the special tools. I was just too concerned about ruining two very expensive prop shafts(Duo prop has both inner and outer and have to be replaced in matched sets with pinion bearing-very expensive!). The tools are sometimes available on ebay and are usually scarfed up pretty quickly if you decide to sell after using. Makes the job super ez!
Can this be done on a 05 mercury 2 stroke 50 hp?
I’m a rookie at this but I’m really impressed by these videos!
can this be done on a 1997 mariner 150 efi magnum??
Will these techniques work on a mercury xr6 150?