So I recently rebuilt someone else’s “performance” 4L60e. The customer stated that after the truck the unit was installed in sat for a few days it would not go into reverse. Let it warm up to near operating temperature and it would then engage as well as engage every time after as long as it didn’t sit for more than a few days. I took it apart and found damage to the reverse input drum that was causing a sealing issue w the Teflon seals. I put a new AC Delco reverse input drum and a new stator shaft (it and the bushings for the RI were all beat up). Aaaaaanyway the transmission was set up pretty much as the one you have outlined. I would say 95% so, but I found something interesting that I had not seen before. The input shaft and the stator shaft were from a later model meaning an exciter on the input shaft and a pocket on the stator for an ISS even though it was not wired or otherwise utilized. Finally to my point…..there was a very fat plastic bushing between the reverse input drum and the back of the stator! Probably twice or even close to three times as thick as a factory piece. I have read that there can be upwards of 0.225 clearance between the two in a factory setting and that it is normal and shouldn’t be a cause for concern. It does however seem that tightening that clearance up (if it is in fact that much) might be beneficial in a high RPM situation. I don’t know who makes it but I have been on the lookout.
Interesting find! Perhaps you can do a video on it if you still have the part and upload to UA-cam...I'd be curious to see what it is/looks like and how it works.
I’m in love with your vocabulary. You’re so articulate. Your my therapy when I sit on my porch piece by piece going through my high performance 700r4 build.
Another great video from this knowledgeable kid Can’t wait for the rest of the videos Nick on this High Performance transmission Build 110% satisfied with this video
I have also seen availability of a reverse input drum that is machined to accommodate a bushing that protrudes slightly to center and accept a Torrington bearing between the drum and stator! Thereby FULLY rollerizing the internals
Hi Ross, yep you can rollerize the front thrust using a machined reverse input drum or you can use a bushing from a 200-4R that protrudes slightly above the surface of the direct drum, which will allow you to add a bearing there as well. I believe it's a TH350 pump thrust bearing and you orientate it so the black side of the bearing faces the pump to avoid exposing the bushing to the part of the bearing that rotates with the drum.
Nick, awesome job on the videos ! Not only this one but ALL videos that you do . A very meticulous and descriptive narration on the most correct way to do it ! . An off topic question, In some of your videos you can hear airplanes in the background . May I ask what airport you are near ? I have an extensive aviation background and always curious about airplanes and airports in general.
Another great video. I like your no nonsense approach to this type of work. I have a quick question. I know you have said before to leave the 3-4 clutch springs out if not doing a performance build. Is it okay to leave them out if not doing a performance build and using the Transgo 7-CS spring kit?
Thanks, Jay...It's up to you if you want to include or leave them out but my general guidance is that if you set the clutch clearance down below .035", keep them in. Otherwise you can leave them out. That applies to any type of build when it comes to the 700R4 or 4L60E.
Hey Nick, its been awhile, i never got a chance to install the Built 70E that i have, I was telling you about it last spring, anyway its built with the Smart Tech input housing kit, 4L60 Red eagle clutches , 3-4 clutch pack ith Alto G3 wide pand and new drum , Input pistons , A new 2007 AC Delco pump, 300mm Billet output shaft, intermed iate servo release check valve and a bunch of Molded pistons the invoice sais, and some pinless accumulators , Im not a Transmission mechanic or builder but i have installed a few Valve body shift improver kits in 700's and 60's over the years, anyway i bought the transmission from a friend years ago and i need to swap the stocker to this one because the car makes 700 , LS2 with Novi supercharger system, I would really like to pull it apart and make sure that it has a sonnax sunshell and that billet piston and wide bushing that you noted, But again i never been inside a Transmision,, So i might just run it as is, But i want to go threw the valve body and possibly uggrade the Pumps internals, Make sure that the 4 accumulator is blocked off etc, What do you think ?
Hi Walter, sounds like that LS2 is a beast! If you've never been inside a transmission I'd recommend taking it to someone you trust or have someone with you who has experience on these units as a heavily modified transmission like the one you're describing may or may not have things done that you won't find in any manual. Additionally, you'll definitely need tools like a transmission holding fixture (either bench or engine stand mounted) and other things if you determine more work needs to be done or you accidentally tear/break something. At very minimum, I'd have the ATSG manual handy once you have the fixture set up. You'll also need pump half alignment tool to put the pump back together after you have upgraded its internals (or you can use the case itself if you know what you're doing).
Yeah im not going to break it down because i really dont have any experience, The Pump is a brand new AC delco but i dont believe any upgrades were done to it besides a boost valve etc, I would like to examine the valve body and make sure it has everything, What would you do for 4th accumulator knowing that shes a 700HP car?
@@nickstransmissions Hi Nick, i been doing some more digging on the 4L70 i have, OK i reached out to the builder hes a friend of a friend , and i lost contact with that friend and so did the builder LOL, But anyway The guy who built the transmission said that he built it with knowing a lot of abuse was going to be thrown at it, it was going in a Trail Blazer SS 6.0L with 200 shot of nitrous and the owner was very hard on parts which i already knew, The builder said he installed the Smart Tech input housing kit and Billet 300mm output shaft, Performance clutches and Steels, He believes hes used a Beast Sunshell, and everything needed to handle the power, He said something happened to the transmission during the time it was in the truck and being beat on, The converter snout broke damaging the pump, The Pump was replaced and the converter (FTI) was replaced with a new one, He said he went threw the whole transmission and replaced whatever it needed, He said at that time he told the owner to build a 4L80 , he said the 70 can handle the Trial blazers 4,500 pounds of the Nitrous but not both because they were up to a 300 shot at that point, He said Knowing that i was eventually going to need to swap out the stock transmission out of my buick to sell me the built 4L70, he said it built well and in a 3,500 street car with 2,800 converter and supercharger it will do the job he said nitrous is just hard on parts especially transmissions, Keeping me in Mind he said he told the owner Why destroy a really good transmission He said this would be perfect for Walters Car, and that why he went threw the whole transmission again and replaced all the clutches , the Band, input pistons and of course the Pump, So knowing all of this and i do trust the guy im pretty confident that the 70 will be strong, "But" i still want to check the valve body , make sure that the PWM circuit is addressed and 4th accumulator, The builder said to put it in the car and run it , He told me Not to pull it apart so i didnt want to ask him anything about the valve body and i know all transmission builders have different tricks and what they do to the valve body, So that why im bothering you , LOL Sorry , but im definitely going to pull the pan and the body and go threw it, If you can help me with what is absolutely necessary to make it all work the best it can, I really appreciate it, Walter
Nick thanks for another video great job! If you were building a GM street/strip transmission 350/400/700 would you choose Raybestos Red frictions over Alto Reds?
Thank you, Bee Gee...I would as I generally don't use alto reds too often. Borg Warner or Alto high energy frictions are also a good choice for street/strip.
Thanks, Kevin! The Sonnax planet set is worth it if drag racing, especially if you're having trouble getting all the power to the ground at take off and/or seeing the engine fall flat on its face on the 1-2 upshift.
Very informative ( I mainly do engine stuffs). Would you or how much would you beef up a transmission for a 2010 5.3 with an LS6 cam with a TBSS intake? No other major mods. Also 4x4.
Thanks for watching, Corey! For case improvements I'd install a an 903 Corvette servo, Sonnax smart shell, max pack in the 3-4 clutch and perhaps a front and rear 5-pinion 4L65E planetary carriers set. For hydraulic improvements, pretty much the same stuff I do for most of these units, but exactly what I would do would largely depend on how the vehicle was going to be used (i.e. just daily driver, street strip, racing, heavy duty towing/hauling, etc) and converter stall.
@@nickstransmissions it's a factory 4x4 V8 truck. According to a local trusted mechanic, it has the same converter as the trailblazer ss which he says is 1600 to 1800 higher than the 2x4.
The trailblazers had a TC stall of around 2000-2200 or so. I'd download Transgo's instructions for their HD2 shift kit off their website and follow their guidance for separator plate feed hole sizes however DO NOT drill the AFL balance or TCC regulator feed holes at the bottom left area of the spacer plate unless you actually install their shift kit, including the white inner AFL spring and blue TCC regulator spring in the valve body...If you're not planning to install their kit, drill the feed holes for the 1-2 shift .076-.080 if using a corvette servo, 2-3 shift, 2-3 accumulator (aka band release) and 3-4 shift to .093. If you want firmer apply in manual low and reverse, drill the L/R feed to .080-.086 and remove the low reverse check ball. Otherwise, keep it in and leave the feed hole alone. If the 4th gear shift is too soft, simply block off the 4th accumulator feed in the case using a cup plug and leave the spring, piston and pin out of the 4th gear accumulator bore. You can watch my 4L60E valve body tips and tricks for more details, if you haven't already: ua-cam.com/video/cQSdi_VhFwY/v-deo.html
Actually tore down 700r4 last year that had bad low revers it had mircofracturing in the area where out put shaft goes thru transmission was gm reman unit it has suffered from overheating and lubrication failure
Thank you for sharing and watching, Corbett! Good call checking the rear of the case...Anytime I have low reverse failures, I'll closely inspect that area once the case comes out of the jet wash.
I caught failure on mild rebuild customer that transmission had sat for about 7 years wanted transmission gone thru they were rebuilding a 86 pontiac transam firebird I normally don't do carry outs for obvious reasons but since it was a close friend I done that one
Hi Steve, I actually haven't been into Allisons just yet but may in the fall...Those transmissions are generally very resilient and don't need overhaul all that often and when they do, most will seek a good used unit for 1-2 grand vs shelling out the 5k+ for an overhaul...There's a video on YT called something like 'The best Allison 1000 Rebuild on UA-cam'...I haven't watched it but the thumbnail looks neat, haha. That's the only one I'm aware of off the top of my head.
Not sure if anyone's asked you yet but your information to contact you to do a transmission rebuild. Also would like to know about cost so we know what we're looking into .
Hi Frank, thank you for watching. You can reach out to me on Facebook (send me a friend request and direct message) if you'd like me to rebuild your transmission...Here's my FB page: facebook.com/profile.php?id=61565989906020
Got a dumb question....I have a machined empty front cover. Turned mine in to a machine shop as a core a month ago. What's the best way to find out what boost valve length is needed?
You can purchase a 2nd design boost valve/sleeve kit along with the accompanying spacer that Sonnax sells that allows you to install that 2nd design kit into an earlier pump cover that otherwise came with a first design boost valve/sleeve from the factory. I believe the change over was in either mid-2006 or 2007...
Hi Tyler, Not sure if you're referring to the transmission's electrical harness or the one going from the PCM/TCM to the transmission but check this video out if you haven't already as it addresses interchangeability between the different years of 4L60E: ua-cam.com/video/4kEzgffqi7w/v-deo.html
Hey Nick, I installed the 4l65e back in to my H2 Hummer! Runs great expect at 45 to 50 MPH the needle on the tachometer studders like jumps up and down. I have to give it some more gas to power through. Why do you think that is happening? Thx!
Erratic speedometer behavior at those speeds is likely vehicle speed sensor/wiring to the speed sensor - check the wiring; if good, install a new VSS. If your engine itself is stumbling or hesitating at those speeds and beyond, check fuel delivery systems for weakness (pump, FP regulator, etc). Honestly, could be any number of things with or beyond the transmission. Plug a scan tool capable of rendering live data and bring up engine and transmission data streams and make note of what you see in the data when you hit those speeds...Perhaps have a helper watch the scanner while you drive or vise versa.
@@nickstransmissions hey Nick follow up. There was an vacuum leak in the engine. 1 for sure but maybe 2. I replaced both PCV valves. Ill take it for test ride once inspected. Thinking that may have something to do with it.
Hey Nick update, I installed new PCV valve hoses and that increased the vacuum seal. I found the main leak. Was the fuel injector o ring. I used the smoke machine through the solenoid hole above throttle bottle. Not sure how long its been leaking. I think for a while. $10 pack of Felpro o rings. Ill let you know how it affects tranny once I install it later. Right now needle jumps 40-50 mph.
Sounds good, man - it's critical to resolve all engine control, management issues prior to diagnosing the transmission as they can directly affect it how behaves and performs. I'll remove your comment on that other video and we can continue to go back and forth in this thread.
@@nickstransmissions latest update, The felpro o ring is working but not as think as OEM ac delco. Did get a check engine light for knocking. Been chasing that for last year. I did install new serp belt and replaced ideler and tension pulley. Tranny running even smoothier. At 40-50 MPH the needle will still bounce but its not as dramatic as before. Soon as I hit gas its fine. I did install sonnax 3/4 input drum. I remember there was a big broken red spring from a the transgo shift kit i didnt reinstall. Not sure if that caused it. Ill keep you posted with updates. Cheers.
No, it would be fine and the vehicle mentioned in the video is making 650hp at the crank. If that was 650 hp at the wheels, I'd opt for a Sonnax billet steel front planetary gear set as well.
Ill do a video this week on drilling that out but you go until you hit the opposite side interior wall and stop. Then turn the pump face up and drill out the short axis.
Computer will definitely need to be tuned for the engine; depending upon how the vehicle is being used, it may be prudent (or even necessary) to apply some tuning to the transmission as well.
Avoid the Zpack, it's not my favorite for anything high performance as the individual plates are too thin and don't withstand heat very well from what I've seen...Run an Alto or Raybestos Max pack using Alto Reds or Kevlar-impregnated HEs, Raybestos Blues, GPZ or Stage Ones w/Kolene coated steels or Borg Warner 4L65E clutch pack with lindered steels (same as Kolene) instead. Six pinion planets are great for racing as they narrow the stupidly wide ratio between 1st and 2nd gear but if you're not racing (or the primary use is street driving) they're not mandatory. Please give a thumbs up if my info is helpful; if not, please let me know what can be done differently. TIA
@@nickstransmissions The info is invaluable! Really thanks a lot. I used to watch Richard's Precision Transmissions, and they treated all their units with the Z-pack and wide band. Alas, that channel went dormant (I think they had some family feud that closed the business...). If you get a chance to do some of the old stuff, like the FMX - that would be great!
So I recently rebuilt someone else’s “performance” 4L60e. The customer stated that after the truck the unit was installed in sat for a few days it would not go into reverse. Let it warm up to near operating temperature and it would then engage as well as engage every time after as long as it didn’t sit for more than a few days. I took it apart and found damage to the reverse input drum that was causing a sealing issue w the Teflon seals. I put a new AC Delco reverse input drum and a new stator shaft (it and the bushings for the RI were all beat up). Aaaaaanyway the transmission was set up pretty much as the one you have outlined. I would say 95% so, but I found something interesting that I had not seen before. The input shaft and the stator shaft were from a later model meaning an exciter on the input shaft and a pocket on the stator for an ISS even though it was not wired or otherwise utilized. Finally to my point…..there was a very fat plastic bushing between the reverse input drum and the back of the stator! Probably twice or even close to three times as thick as a factory piece. I have read that there can be upwards of 0.225 clearance between the two in a factory setting and that it is normal and shouldn’t be a cause for concern. It does however seem that tightening that clearance up (if it is in fact that much) might be beneficial in a high RPM situation. I don’t know who makes it but I have been on the lookout.
Interesting find! Perhaps you can do a video on it if you still have the part and upload to UA-cam...I'd be curious to see what it is/looks like and how it works.
I’m in love with your vocabulary. You’re so articulate. Your my therapy when I sit on my porch piece by piece going through my high performance 700r4 build.
Thanks, man. Appreciate the kind words.
Very nice, Nick. Almost exactly the same recipe I use. You're doing great with these videos.
Thank you, Kevin!
Another great video from this knowledgeable kid
Can’t wait for the rest of the videos Nick on this High Performance transmission Build
110% satisfied with this video
Thank you, Adolfo!
Well presented and explained as always thanks for the transmissions you rock !
Thanks, Doc!
I have also seen availability of a reverse input drum that is machined to accommodate a bushing that protrudes slightly to center and accept a Torrington bearing between the drum and stator! Thereby FULLY rollerizing the internals
Hi Ross, yep you can rollerize the front thrust using a machined reverse input drum or you can use a bushing from a 200-4R that protrudes slightly above the surface of the direct drum, which will allow you to add a bearing there as well. I believe it's a TH350 pump thrust bearing and you orientate it so the black side of the bearing faces the pump to avoid exposing the bushing to the part of the bearing that rotates with the drum.
Nick, awesome job on the videos ! Not only this one but ALL videos that you do . A very meticulous and descriptive narration on the most correct way to do it ! . An off topic question, In some of your videos you can hear airplanes in the background . May I ask what airport you are near ? I have an extensive aviation background and always curious about airplanes and airports in general.
Thanks, Edward - I appreciate the kind words!
In the future can you do a thorough inspection video on 4l60e and 4l80e? That’ll be so dope!!!🔥🔥🔥
Here you go (4L60e): ua-cam.com/video/WuTX8n8RVEE/v-deo.html
I'll film the next 4L80E that comes in for tear down and inspection.
@@nickstransmissions thank you🔥🔥🔥
Another great video. I like your no nonsense approach to this type of work. I have a quick question. I know you have said before to leave the 3-4 clutch springs out if not doing a performance build. Is it okay to leave them out if not doing a performance build and using the Transgo 7-CS spring kit?
Thanks, Jay...It's up to you if you want to include or leave them out but my general guidance is that if you set the clutch clearance down below .035", keep them in. Otherwise you can leave them out. That applies to any type of build when it comes to the 700R4 or 4L60E.
@@nickstransmissions Thank you for the information. Keep up the great work.
Hey Nick, its been awhile, i never got a chance to install the Built 70E that i have, I was telling you about it last spring, anyway its built with the Smart Tech input housing kit, 4L60 Red eagle clutches , 3-4 clutch pack ith Alto G3 wide pand and new drum , Input pistons , A new 2007 AC Delco pump, 300mm Billet output shaft, intermed iate servo release check valve and a bunch of Molded pistons the invoice sais, and some pinless accumulators , Im not a Transmission mechanic or builder but i have installed a few Valve body shift improver kits in 700's and 60's over the years, anyway i bought the transmission from a friend years ago and i need to swap the stocker to this one because the car makes 700 , LS2 with Novi supercharger system, I would really like to pull it apart and make sure that it has a sonnax sunshell and that billet piston and wide bushing that you noted, But again i never been inside a Transmision,, So i might just run it as is, But i want to go threw the valve body and possibly uggrade the Pumps internals, Make sure that the 4 accumulator is blocked off etc, What do you think ?
Hi Walter, sounds like that LS2 is a beast!
If you've never been inside a transmission I'd recommend taking it to someone you trust or have someone with you who has experience on these units as a heavily modified transmission like the one you're describing may or may not have things done that you won't find in any manual.
Additionally, you'll definitely need tools like a transmission holding fixture (either bench or engine stand mounted) and other things if you determine more work needs to be done or you accidentally tear/break something. At very minimum, I'd have the ATSG manual handy once you have the fixture set up. You'll also need pump half alignment tool to put the pump back together after you have upgraded its internals (or you can use the case itself if you know what you're doing).
Yeah im not going to break it down because i really dont have any experience, The Pump is a brand new AC delco but i dont believe any upgrades were done to it besides a boost valve etc, I would like to examine the valve body and make sure it has everything, What would you do for 4th accumulator knowing that shes a 700HP car?
@@nickstransmissions Hi Nick, i been doing some more digging on the 4L70 i have, OK i reached out to the builder hes a friend of a friend , and i lost contact with that friend and so did the builder LOL, But anyway The guy who built the transmission said that he built it with knowing a lot of abuse was going to be thrown at it, it was going in a Trail Blazer SS 6.0L with 200 shot of nitrous and the owner was very hard on parts which i already knew, The builder said he installed the Smart Tech input housing kit and Billet 300mm output shaft, Performance clutches and Steels, He believes hes used a Beast Sunshell, and everything needed to handle the power, He said something happened to the transmission during the time it was in the truck and being beat on, The converter snout broke damaging the pump, The Pump was replaced and the converter (FTI) was replaced with a new one, He said he went threw the whole transmission and replaced whatever it needed, He said at that time he told the owner to build a 4L80 , he said the 70 can handle the Trial blazers 4,500 pounds of the Nitrous but not both because they were up to a 300 shot at that point, He said Knowing that i was eventually going to need to swap out the stock transmission out of my buick to sell me the built 4L70, he said it built well and in a 3,500 street car with 2,800 converter and supercharger it will do the job he said nitrous is just hard on parts especially transmissions, Keeping me in Mind he said he told the owner Why destroy a really good transmission He said this would be perfect for Walters Car, and that why he went threw the whole transmission again and replaced all the clutches , the Band, input pistons and of course the Pump, So knowing all of this and i do trust the guy im pretty confident that the 70 will be strong, "But" i still want to check the valve body , make sure that the PWM circuit is addressed and 4th accumulator, The builder said to put it in the car and run it , He told me Not to pull it apart so i didnt want to ask him anything about the valve body and i know all transmission builders have different tricks and what they do to the valve body, So that why im bothering you , LOL Sorry , but im definitely going to pull the pan and the body and go threw it, If you can help me with what is absolutely necessary to make it all work the best it can, I really appreciate it, Walter
Nick thanks for another video great job! If you were building a GM street/strip transmission 350/400/700 would you choose Raybestos Red frictions over Alto Reds?
Thank you, Bee Gee...I would as I generally don't use alto reds too often. Borg Warner or Alto high energy frictions are also a good choice for street/strip.
Awesome. Thanks for the video!
Thanks, HMG!
Great video!! My transmission just went out in my camed Chevy. How much would this build cost ?
Thanks, Harrisonjbo! Builds like this with billet shafts and specialized drums are often north of $4k.
great video, just curious what you think of the sonnax 2.84 ratio input carrier? Is it worth the money to do this?
Thanks, Kevin! The Sonnax planet set is worth it if drag racing, especially if you're having trouble getting all the power to the ground at take off and/or seeing the engine fall flat on its face on the 1-2 upshift.
Very informative ( I mainly do engine stuffs). Would you or how much would you beef up a transmission for a 2010 5.3 with an LS6 cam with a TBSS intake? No other major mods. Also 4x4.
Thanks for watching, Corey! For case improvements I'd install a an 903 Corvette servo, Sonnax smart shell, max pack in the 3-4 clutch and perhaps a front and rear 5-pinion 4L65E planetary carriers set. For hydraulic improvements, pretty much the same stuff I do for most of these units, but exactly what I would do would largely depend on how the vehicle was going to be used (i.e. just daily driver, street strip, racing, heavy duty towing/hauling, etc) and converter stall.
@@nickstransmissions very grateful for such a quick reply. Daily Driver/rare fun.
You're welcome (I happen to be sitting in front of my computer today and see the alerts pop up on the screen). What stall speed is your converter?
@@nickstransmissions it's a factory 4x4 V8 truck. According to a local trusted mechanic, it has the same converter as the trailblazer ss which he says is 1600 to 1800 higher than the 2x4.
The trailblazers had a TC stall of around 2000-2200 or so. I'd download Transgo's instructions for their HD2 shift kit off their website and follow their guidance for separator plate feed hole sizes however DO NOT drill the AFL balance or TCC regulator feed holes at the bottom left area of the spacer plate unless you actually install their shift kit, including the white inner AFL spring and blue TCC regulator spring in the valve body...If you're not planning to install their kit, drill the feed holes for the 1-2 shift .076-.080 if using a corvette servo, 2-3 shift, 2-3 accumulator (aka band release) and 3-4 shift to .093. If you want firmer apply in manual low and reverse, drill the L/R feed to .080-.086 and remove the low reverse check ball. Otherwise, keep it in and leave the feed hole alone.
If the 4th gear shift is too soft, simply block off the 4th accumulator feed in the case using a cup plug and leave the spring, piston and pin out of the 4th gear accumulator bore.
You can watch my 4L60E valve body tips and tricks for more details, if you haven't already: ua-cam.com/video/cQSdi_VhFwY/v-deo.html
Actually tore down 700r4 last year that had bad low revers it had mircofracturing in the area where out put shaft goes thru transmission was gm reman unit it has suffered from overheating and lubrication failure
Thank you for sharing and watching, Corbett! Good call checking the rear of the case...Anytime I have low reverse failures, I'll closely inspect that area once the case comes out of the jet wash.
I caught failure on mild rebuild customer that transmission had sat for about 7 years wanted transmission gone thru they were rebuilding a 86 pontiac transam firebird I normally don't do carry outs for obvious reasons but since it was a close friend I done that one
Yep, good catch for sure. You never know what you might find when you open up one of these things.
Nick, do you do Allison's? Video(s) suggestion?
Hi Steve, I actually haven't been into Allisons just yet but may in the fall...Those transmissions are generally very resilient and don't need overhaul all that often and when they do, most will seek a good used unit for 1-2 grand vs shelling out the 5k+ for an overhaul...There's a video on YT called something like 'The best Allison 1000 Rebuild on UA-cam'...I haven't watched it but the thumbnail looks neat, haha. That's the only one I'm aware of off the top of my head.
Not sure if anyone's asked you yet but your information to contact you to do a transmission rebuild. Also would like to know about cost so we know what we're looking into .
Hi Frank, thank you for watching. You can reach out to me on Facebook (send me a friend request and direct message) if you'd like me to rebuild your transmission...Here's my FB page: facebook.com/profile.php?id=61565989906020
Got a dumb question....I have a machined empty front cover. Turned mine in to a machine shop as a core a month ago. What's the best way to find out what boost valve length is needed?
You can purchase a 2nd design boost valve/sleeve kit along with the accompanying spacer that Sonnax sells that allows you to install that 2nd design kit into an earlier pump cover that otherwise came with a first design boost valve/sleeve from the factory.
I believe the change over was in either mid-2006 or 2007...
What do you recommend for a beginner to start on building a transmission ?
Got it all fixed, looking for vid to give you final update, do you know which one it is?
Sounds good, man - glad it's all repaired and good to go!
If i have the electrical harness from a silverado 09 doner truck can i swap my transmission? My trucks a 08.
Hi Tyler,
Not sure if you're referring to the transmission's electrical harness or the one going from the PCM/TCM to the transmission but check this video out if you haven't already as it addresses interchangeability between the different years of 4L60E: ua-cam.com/video/4kEzgffqi7w/v-deo.html
Hey Nick, I installed the 4l65e back in to my H2 Hummer! Runs great expect at 45 to 50 MPH the needle on the tachometer studders like jumps up and down. I have to give it some more gas to power through. Why do you think that is happening? Thx!
Erratic speedometer behavior at those speeds is likely vehicle speed sensor/wiring to the speed sensor - check the wiring; if good, install a new VSS.
If your engine itself is stumbling or hesitating at those speeds and beyond, check fuel delivery systems for weakness (pump, FP regulator, etc). Honestly, could be any number of things with or beyond the transmission.
Plug a scan tool capable of rendering live data and bring up engine and transmission data streams and make note of what you see in the data when you hit those speeds...Perhaps have a helper watch the scanner while you drive or vise versa.
@@nickstransmissions hey Nick follow up. There was an vacuum leak in the engine. 1 for sure but maybe 2. I replaced both PCV valves. Ill take it for test ride once inspected. Thinking that may have something to do with it.
Hey Nick update, I installed new PCV valve hoses and that increased the vacuum seal. I found the main leak. Was the fuel injector o ring. I used the smoke machine through the solenoid hole above throttle bottle. Not sure how long its been leaking. I think for a while. $10 pack of Felpro o rings. Ill let you know how it affects tranny once I install it later. Right now needle jumps 40-50 mph.
Sounds good, man - it's critical to resolve all engine control, management issues prior to diagnosing the transmission as they can directly affect it how behaves and performs.
I'll remove your comment on that other video and we can continue to go back and forth in this thread.
@@nickstransmissions latest update, The felpro o ring is working but not as think as OEM ac delco. Did get a check engine light for knocking. Been chasing that for last year. I did install new serp belt and replaced ideler and tension pulley. Tranny running even smoothier. At 40-50 MPH the needle will still bounce but its not as dramatic as before. Soon as I hit gas its fine. I did install sonnax 3/4 input drum. I remember there was a big broken red spring from a the transgo shift kit i didnt reinstall. Not sure if that caused it. Ill keep you posted with updates. Cheers.
Would this transmission be over kill for 500 hp at the crankshaft I'm assuming you were referring to 650 hp at the wheels in the video
No, it would be fine and the vehicle mentioned in the video is making 650hp at the crank. If that was 650 hp at the wheels, I'd opt for a Sonnax billet steel front planetary gear set as well.
How far do you drill with 5/16 drill bit?
Ill do a video this week on drilling that out but you go until you hit the opposite side interior wall and stop. Then turn the pump face up and drill out the short axis.
@@nickstransmissions thanks Nick
@@nickstransmissions could you please tag me in the video or send it to me some how. That would be so much appreciated.
When you install a built transmission like this what needs to be done to the computer. Does it need to be tuned?
Computer will definitely need to be tuned for the engine; depending upon how the vehicle is being used, it may be prudent (or even necessary) to apply some tuning to the transmission as well.
Sonnax six-pinion front planet? 3-4 Z-pack?
Avoid the Zpack, it's not my favorite for anything high performance as the individual plates are too thin and don't withstand heat very well from what I've seen...Run an Alto or Raybestos Max pack using Alto Reds or Kevlar-impregnated HEs, Raybestos Blues, GPZ or Stage Ones w/Kolene coated steels or Borg Warner 4L65E clutch pack with lindered steels (same as Kolene) instead. Six pinion planets are great for racing as they narrow the stupidly wide ratio between 1st and 2nd gear but if you're not racing (or the primary use is street driving) they're not mandatory.
Please give a thumbs up if my info is helpful; if not, please let me know what can be done differently.
TIA
@@nickstransmissions The info is invaluable! Really thanks a lot. I used to watch Richard's Precision Transmissions, and they treated all their units with the Z-pack and wide band. Alas, that channel went dormant (I think they had some family feud that closed the business...).
If you get a chance to do some of the old stuff, like the FMX - that would be great!
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