Great vid that really nails some of the important points about setup - I have 2018 Cafe with Razor R. Too stiff on the front does indeed make the bike pitch back, forcing the back end down, it's harsh, uncomfortable and unsettling at the rear. You also need enough sag at the rear to ensure the suspension can work both ways, bumps and dips, and under braking as described. I found that out by lots of trial and error, good that you got there easier with great advice! Listen to this advice and don't go too hard on springing _or_ damping guys and gals, it doesn't make for better handling... chrs..
I personally adjusted my OEM 2023 Cafe suspension properly for my weight, and I can say it’s about perfect as is…I’ll share my settings on the factory equipment, 200lb veteran quick street/track day rider… Rear: 1.6” rear sag, rebound 1 1/4 turns out Front: 1.4” sag, rebound 2 clicks out compression 2 clicks out. Good bud and thanks for sharing…I’m considering lowering my front end to tighten up rake and trail just a tad and get a little more weight over front…has anyone played with this on this particular bike? I may end up needing a steering damper but in my opinion as hard as I ride I should have one anyways.
Remembering the number of clicks is useless, because it changes while the oil degrades in the suspension. For each bike the number of clicks will be different. And stiffening the rebound more than needed is dangerous, because wheels have less traction while the bike is leaning. It makes the suspension to rebound slowly which causes the tire to be in the air for a longer time after it hits a bump. Basically in the turn instead of your tire extends and regain traction your whole front end dives under the centrifugal force.
@@Daves_Man_Cave By the way, you've said "5 clicks out" for rebound, does that mean 5 clicks counter clockwise from the fully stiffened position? If so the oil is probably less viscouse than it ideally should be, or you've already ridden around 10k kilometers with that oil. Ideal oil viscosity would be if after you put a new oil the rebound was on first clicks, because while riding the oil degrades and looses viscocity, so overtime you will be rotating the rebound clockwise to compensate for that. If you already have only 5 clicks left it probably means that in several thouthand kilometers the susmension will become underdamped. But underdamped suspension is not so bad it's still safe to ride, the overdamped suspension is dangerous.
@@Ringer1982 Yeah, I added one more click of Compression, so now the forks are 4 on Rebound and 4 on Compression... And yes, those are clicks out from fully seated... so turn all the way in clockwise, and then click out. That's with brand new Belray 15W fork oil.
I like my bikes to ride like a Cadillac, nice & soft yet composed enough for daily riding. I've never really set my suspension settings for sportiness but would eventually like to tune the settings more effectively for my riding purposes. I'm always at a loss though and just finagle w/them from time to time- a twist here, a screw there. Is that the correct method? I dunno, seems to work for me and so far, I haven't adjusted my Z900RS's setting at all. I'm no racer rick. Maybe one of these days...
Honestly, if you haven't done it before, the best way is to find a reputable race shop, and pay a tech to help you set the bike up for you. In my case, I am too big and heavy for the stock components no matter how much I adjusted them. The shock was never gonna be good for me for anything other than just putting around. Once I upped the pace, the shock went from poor to worse. If you are in the 165lbs range, the stock parts might work fine for you, once you get the preload and damping dialed in. You want the suspension to be smooth, fluid and responsive to absorb all the normal bumps and things in the road. But you don't want it too soft where it has the bike wallowing all over in the turns. You need the right preload to make sure that the springs are supporting the weight of you and the bike in such a way that it is firm, yet compliant. Suspension works in both directions, remember... It needs room to travel both up and down...
This is an old video but I’m hoping your still around to answer a question. What is the stock preload setting? I bought mine used and want a good starting point it dives hard on braking and they had the compression turned to the max. Rides like a log truck
Stock preload on the forks is 3 turns in, from fully OUT. So turn it all the way out till it tops out(don't force it past that) and then turn it clockwise 3 turns. That's the stock position. But it's probably not enough. Stock settings are here: pws.ktivs.net/dispeBook?file=99805-0028&mark=ZR900CLF&manual_kind=OM&lang_code=EN&model_year=2020&nickname=Z900RS&dist_cd=207&country_cd=--&manual_filenm=99805-0028-o6zr900clf-eu-en-tws.pdf&first_referrer=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.kawasaki.co.uk%2F
@@Daves_Man_Cave defiantly isn’t enough I just need to even them up the guy that had it had stuff twisted in all directions. None of the adjusters were the same number if turns in or out. I wasn’t Shure if the pre load bottomed out at some point I didn’t wanna just start cranking it in and out. But thanks you very much. Just wanted a good point to start from so they’d be even.
@@poker8193 It will bottom out at some point. That link work for you? Has all the stock settings. Start there, and then firm things up, At some point it will get too firm and harsh, and at that point, back it up a bit. I want to say that one of my videos discusses what settings I found, that worked for me.
Factory weight was 5W, but here is the thing... Fork oil weights are not standardized, the way that motor oil is. So 5W from one brand, could be 2.5W from another, and even 10W by yet another brand. There is no real standard viscosity standard, so you have to find a chart that shows how they all compare to each other, to decide what weight and brand to go with... If you can't find it on Google, I will see if I can track it down, let me know.
My 2019 Cafe is still set up stock suspension wise I love the way it corners. I'm 6ft 1in so I'm a little shorter than you and 200 lbs so stock feels good to me. I have a Delkevik header that I need to install. Where did you get the ECU flashed?
If it feels good now you’ll be blown away by adjusting it for your weight and getting the damping fine tuned, it’s on another level, Kawasaki made it easy to adjust almost every circuit, which is killer, and their damping setting ranges give you about everything you need to work with
Squire, are you still running the stock fork springs? I just pulled the Wilbers 640 rear shock and returned it to EPM, they'll install the compression damping reservoir upgrade kit with hi/lo adjusters. Should've spec’ed that on Day 1.
Thanks - they do feel satisfactory for sporting street use. I haven't changed the fork oil yet, but now is a good time while the Wilbers is being worked on...3 long weeks.
was trying to achieve the same results up front by softening compression (for bumps) and making rebound stiffer (for grip) you softened it compared with initial but was that way harder than stock ? also the cafe vs RS setting difference confuses me 2 clicks softer on compression and 4 clicks harder on rebound ? whaddaya think ?
@@Daves_Man_Cave I just had the same problem you did, I've run out of usable length and almost no static sag still not quite down to the 35-40mm target i guess thats why you went to the razor :D
So I have a '21 Z900 (Non RS), I took mine late this past summer to a shop to have the suspension adjusted for my size/weight. After getting it back I'm not happy with it but I didn't get enough ride time to really decide. Once the weather gets better I planned on taking it back to have them either put it back to stock or adjust it with me there. But I'm not having to tip toe at standing on it, (5'11" 32" inseam, 240lbs) but the biggest issue is it feels really squirrely in the front end at times now. I didn't have the fork oil changed, or any parts replaced. So with that would you recommend anything I could do before taking it back to them?
Is the front adjustable on the non RS model? From what I remember, the front forks on the Z900 are not as good as the RS forks. Mine has full adjustments, but my friends Z900 I don't think are. What shop set it up? So many folks think that stiff=good and that simply isn't true. Firm but compliant can be good, depending on your weight and how you ride... Where do you live?
I don’t know how adjustable the regular Zs forks are but you probably have a bit too much rebound dampening in right now. Literally one click out can make it go from headshake city to smith as glass and stable, I would turn it out until it feels settled again
Great vid that really nails some of the important points about setup - I have 2018 Cafe with Razor R. Too stiff on the front does indeed make the bike pitch back, forcing the back end down, it's harsh, uncomfortable and unsettling at the rear. You also need enough sag at the rear to ensure the suspension can work both ways, bumps and dips, and under braking as described. I found that out by lots of trial and error, good that you got there easier with great advice! Listen to this advice and don't go too hard on springing _or_ damping guys and gals, it doesn't make for better handling... chrs..
Thanks for passing along some real nice info 😉
I personally adjusted my OEM 2023 Cafe suspension properly for my weight, and I can say it’s about perfect as is…I’ll share my settings on the factory equipment, 200lb veteran quick street/track day rider…
Rear: 1.6” rear sag, rebound 1 1/4 turns out
Front: 1.4” sag, rebound 2 clicks out compression 2 clicks out.
Good bud and thanks for sharing…I’m considering lowering my front end to tighten up rake and trail just a tad and get a little more weight over front…has anyone played with this on this particular bike? I may end up needing a steering damper but in my opinion as hard as I ride I should have one anyways.
Remembering the number of clicks is useless, because it changes while the oil degrades in the suspension. For each bike the number of clicks will be different. And stiffening the rebound more than needed is dangerous, because wheels have less traction while the bike is leaning. It makes the suspension to rebound slowly which causes the tire to be in the air for a longer time after it hits a bump. Basically in the turn instead of your tire extends and regain traction your whole front end dives under the centrifugal force.
Yeah, we ended up taking out both compression and rebound on the front, for those reasons...
@@Daves_Man_Cave By the way, you've said "5 clicks out" for rebound, does that mean 5 clicks counter clockwise from the fully stiffened position? If so the oil is probably less viscouse than it ideally should be, or you've already ridden around 10k kilometers with that oil. Ideal oil viscosity would be if after you put a new oil the rebound was on first clicks, because while riding the oil degrades and looses viscocity, so overtime you will be rotating the rebound clockwise to compensate for that. If you already have only 5 clicks left it probably means that in several thouthand kilometers the susmension will become underdamped. But underdamped suspension is not so bad it's still safe to ride, the overdamped suspension is dangerous.
@@Ringer1982 Yeah, I added one more click of Compression, so now the forks are 4 on Rebound and 4 on Compression... And yes, those are clicks out from fully seated... so turn all the way in clockwise, and then click out. That's with brand new Belray 15W fork oil.
I like my bikes to ride like a Cadillac, nice & soft yet composed enough for daily riding. I've never really set my suspension settings for sportiness but would eventually like to tune the settings more effectively for my riding purposes. I'm always at a loss though and just finagle w/them from time to time- a twist here, a screw there. Is that the correct method? I dunno, seems to work for me and so far, I haven't adjusted my Z900RS's setting at all. I'm no racer rick. Maybe one of these days...
Honestly, if you haven't done it before, the best way is to find a reputable race shop, and pay a tech to help you set the bike up for you. In my case, I am too big and heavy for the stock components no matter how much I adjusted them. The shock was never gonna be good for me for anything other than just putting around. Once I upped the pace, the shock went from poor to worse.
If you are in the 165lbs range, the stock parts might work fine for you, once you get the preload and damping dialed in. You want the suspension to be smooth, fluid and responsive to absorb all the normal bumps and things in the road. But you don't want it too soft where it has the bike wallowing all over in the turns. You need the right preload to make sure that the springs are supporting the weight of you and the bike in such a way that it is firm, yet compliant. Suspension works in both directions, remember... It needs room to travel both up and down...
This is an old video but I’m hoping your still around to answer a question. What is the stock preload setting? I bought mine used and want a good starting point it dives hard on braking and they had the compression turned to the max. Rides like a log truck
Stock preload on the forks is 3 turns in, from fully OUT. So turn it all the way out till it tops out(don't force it past that) and then turn it clockwise 3 turns. That's the stock position. But it's probably not enough.
Stock settings are here:
pws.ktivs.net/dispeBook?file=99805-0028&mark=ZR900CLF&manual_kind=OM&lang_code=EN&model_year=2020&nickname=Z900RS&dist_cd=207&country_cd=--&manual_filenm=99805-0028-o6zr900clf-eu-en-tws.pdf&first_referrer=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.kawasaki.co.uk%2F
@@Daves_Man_Cave defiantly isn’t enough I just need to even them up the guy that had it had stuff twisted in all directions. None of the adjusters were the same number if turns in or out. I wasn’t Shure if the pre load bottomed out at some point I didn’t wanna just start cranking it in and out. But thanks you very much. Just wanted a good point to start from so they’d be even.
@@poker8193 It will bottom out at some point. That link work for you? Has all the stock settings. Start there, and then firm things up, At some point it will get too firm and harsh, and at that point, back it up a bit. I want to say that one of my videos discusses what settings I found, that worked for me.
@@Daves_Man_Cave yes sir thank you very much
Great video! Do you know what's the factory fork oil weight? Thanks!
Factory weight was 5W, but here is the thing... Fork oil weights are not standardized, the way that motor oil is. So 5W from one brand, could be 2.5W from another, and even 10W by yet another brand. There is no real standard viscosity standard, so you have to find a chart that shows how they all compare to each other, to decide what weight and brand to go with... If you can't find it on Google, I will see if I can track it down, let me know.
@@Daves_Man_Cave Thanks! The 7W you replaced now is heavier then the factory was ?
It was.
My 2019 Cafe is still set up stock suspension wise I love the way it corners. I'm 6ft 1in so I'm a little shorter than you and 200 lbs so stock feels good to me. I have a Delkevik header that I need to install. Where did you get the ECU flashed?
If it feels good now you’ll be blown away by adjusting it for your weight and getting the damping fine tuned, it’s on another level, Kawasaki made it easy to adjust almost every circuit, which is killer, and their damping setting ranges give you about everything you need to work with
Squire, are you still running the stock fork springs?
I just pulled the Wilbers 640 rear shock and returned it to EPM, they'll install the compression damping reservoir upgrade kit with hi/lo adjusters. Should've spec’ed that on Day 1.
Yeah, the stock fork springs are actually fine for my weight. It was the shock that was woefully undersprung
Thanks - they do feel satisfactory for sporting street use. I haven't changed the fork oil yet, but now is a good time while the Wilbers is being worked on...3 long weeks.
was trying to achieve the same results up front by softening compression (for bumps) and making rebound stiffer (for grip) you softened it compared with initial but was that way harder than stock ? also the cafe vs RS setting difference confuses me
2 clicks softer on compression and 4 clicks harder on rebound ? whaddaya think ?
in the end, I went to a famous suspension guru here in the southeast and I paid for a proper setup from a pro...
@@Daves_Man_Cave I just had the same problem you did, I've run out of usable length and almost no static sag still not quite down to the 35-40mm target
i guess thats why you went to the razor :D
So I have a '21 Z900 (Non RS), I took mine late this past summer to a shop to have the suspension adjusted for my size/weight. After getting it back I'm not happy with it but I didn't get enough ride time to really decide. Once the weather gets better I planned on taking it back to have them either put it back to stock or adjust it with me there. But I'm not having to tip toe at standing on it, (5'11" 32" inseam, 240lbs) but the biggest issue is it feels really squirrely in the front end at times now. I didn't have the fork oil changed, or any parts replaced. So with that would you recommend anything I could do before taking it back to them?
Is the front adjustable on the non RS model? From what I remember, the front forks on the Z900 are not as good as the RS forks. Mine has full adjustments, but my friends Z900 I don't think are.
What shop set it up? So many folks think that stiff=good and that simply isn't true. Firm but compliant can be good, depending on your weight and how you ride...
Where do you live?
I don’t know how adjustable the regular Zs forks are but you probably have a bit too much rebound dampening in right now. Literally one click out can make it go from headshake city to smith as glass and stable, I would turn it out until it feels settled again
The rear shock….you said 3 clicks out, is that from 32 clicks clockwise in…then back out 3 clicks. !
Correct. :-)
Thank you
So stock suspension is not too bad for 245lb guy? I mean you can set sag properly or stiffer springs are needed?
I got the forks sorted with the stock springs, but the stock shock is crap.
@@Daves_Man_Cave thanks, I've seen version of this bike with ohlins suspension, much more expensive though.
Do u know what the measurement is from bottom of the fork for bottom out?
Unfortunately, I do not have that measurement.