Is Linseed Oil The Best Wood Finish? Applying and Testing Durability
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- Опубліковано 8 січ 2023
- I display my tips and tricks to applying Boiled Linseed Oil to a cedar board. After applying the oil I used a 3000 grit sandpaper to polish the surface and concluded with a durability test. I tested everyday household products on a newly finished surface to display its durability.
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Like to add something here as a tip. If you are using boiled linseed oil as you did here, make sure the rags and towels you used are NOT thrown in the trash until 100% completely dry. I mean like, lay them out on ground, single layered, after immediate use. They do have the power to generate enough heat due to the metal salts added to combust on their own. Dangerous stuff if not taken care of properly.
Wonderful information
My son just lost his garage, two cars, an apartment above the garage and of course everything inside the building due to spilled linseed oil that was cleaned up with rags that were put in the trash container. 2 1/2 hours later They combusted and caught on fire 🔥 Thank you for your caution statement, because many of these videos that talk about linseed oil to not include that danger of what to do with the rugs when finished
My friend lost his whole house from a pile of Linseed soaked rags.
@jeanroeder5534 why just on rags though? Why doesn't it combust in the container?
@@timsolomon8352Vapour/oxygen mix. Things that burn have a combustible range of vapour pressure and temperature.
Linseed oil forms into a crystal by combining with oxygen. It forms a transparent lattice structure at the molecular level and has the refractive qualities similar to amber of fir pitch.
This crystallization takes time. Within a month it will be well on its way.
So it is important to let the oil crystallize with oxygen so that a maximum of light(photons) penetrate the wood.(luster).
Applying wax so soon will seal the oil from O2 and stop this crystallization which causes a loss in the crystallization potential.
Applying wax after a few weeks would allow the oil time to crystallize and be more impervious toliquids,and look better.
Thank you 🙏
I am looking to eradicate strong mould/mildew smell from an old wooden chest of drawers. I was going to use boiled linseed first. I'll use your method i think and leave for some months before adding a seal
Add some damar varnish or any turpentine dissolve varnish to the oil. This will set and hold the oil in place to do its crystallisation without coming off with touch.
Thanks v much@@stewartbrands
I just found you while researching linseed oil and its uses. Super good quality video man thanks for the content
You’re awesome, thanks for noticing the video work. 🙏🙏🙏
Thanks for the tips.
Thanks for the support 🙏
Great info dude, this whas the Exact video i whas looking for. ❤
Made my day! Thank you for the support 🙏
Have used it on wooden handles of garden tools works good can easily re apply from time to time. Works on the metal parts of it too.
I actually did this summer. Great price and helps slow drying out. Great tip!
Beautiful piece of wood 🪵
Thank you very much!
I just purchased an old fashioned bread box from an estate sale for 50 cents! After sanding off the light varnish it had and years of crud, I've decided this will be my experimental Linseed oil project. Not a table top so it won't be exposed to harsh influences. I'm hoping for the best to protect my homemade bread. Thanks for your instruction.
Sounds like you got a winner. Perfect choice. Very forgiving finish (easy to work with). Good luck 🍀
@@TexasArtCompany thanks for responding it means a lot for a beginner. Your example was well above my level.
In my experice, applying oil-based (do not use water-based) varnish on top of boiled liseed oil will provide a complete, long lasting barrier for daily-used kitchen tables, etc. Wax can then be used as the last polishing coating, and repolished every year, etc.
Great Tip, Thank you
I'm considering doing this. Would you recommend oil based polyurethane? Should I sand the oiled surface before applying the poly?
Great video thanks
Thank you 🙏
I made my first cutting board and after some research decided to treat it with linseed oil 😊 great video!
Thank you for sharing. Good all natural choice. Great product to keep adding as needed.
Love this video I know what I am going to be doing this weekend on some wooden unfinished photo frames I have
Thank you for the support, I look forward to making the next few videos.
Kia Ora & Good Evening from Auckland, New Zealand …great video bro …
Thank you 🙏
Thanks!
Thank you for the support!
I am in, liked and subscribed..
Next Stop 1k! Thank you.
3000 grit wow... haven't heard of that. I bought a cedar chest off of craigslist. I sanded it with 80, 120, 180 grit. I bought this Cedar Oil - Giles and Kendall at home depot. Can I dilute it? I'm not versed enough to know whether to use water or like mineral spirits and what would the ratio be? I'm curious because the stuff is expensive lol. It is a very potent oil. Thanks for the vid!!
Oil and water don’t mix very well. If you’re looking to dilute an oil based product mineral spirits would be the way to go. 3000 can be found at your local automotive store. A grit that high doesn’t change the look drastically but does give you a much smoother texture
If you’re looking to dilute start small and work your way up. Each product is different and diluting just means it could take longer.
Hi. I’ve got an oak gate that’s maybe 40-50 years old. It’s certainly weathered. I would like to protect it for a few more years; ideally I’d like to maintain the natural color if at all possible. Any tips or suggestions? Thanks in advance!
Linseed oil might be a good budget option. It certainly won’t add years of protection or resistance against the weather but oil and water typically don’t mix. For the price point and ease of application it’s worth a shot. It shouldn’t change the appearance very much but it does have a yellowish tint that would just make it look warm and “wet”. The only downside is how fast does that dry out?
If you want all-natural, is this good? I recently did a super fast sanding of my desk and applied bees wax to it and the rings are completely gone and it looks way better. But I guess the wax won't lsat long. I want to try linseed oil (raw) on it and then bees wax. I wonder how often you need to maintain wood this way supposing you eat off of it. (I don't eat off my desk, but wondering about my dinign room table.)
For something indoors reapplying every 6 months to a year should work well.
For one thing, it depends on what your definition of 'all natural' is. This finish does help show off the natural traits of the wood, but most commercially available 'boiled linseed oil' is not just "boiled" linseed oil but rather there are metallic catalysts added which aid in the drying process and can remain in trace amounts. If food safety is a concern, always check what you're buying to see if it's certified as food grade. A nice simple finish I learned about (not very durable but easy to reapply) is melting some (food grade) beeswax and mineral oil to make a paste, which I keep in a glass jar and has stored well for years, then buffing that paste on the surface
That is a beautiful piece of wood. Can you use that oil for redwoods?
Certainly
Admittedly I only use it for tool and axe handles, but I get my best results as follows.
One part boiled linseed oil to one part turpentine substitute.
I brush it on until the wood has stopped soaking it up.
I repeat this process every day for a week.
I give it plenty of time to dry out, then wipe with a dry cloth.
I am fairly reserved with how much I use. Enough to thoroughly wet the wood, but not so much its dripping or literally pooling.
Just brush on enough to soak into the wood, with extra at the end grain as this tracks in fast. Repeat the process either for 7 days or until the wood literally doesnt absorb any more.
Its actually a fantastic wood treatment because it kind of "plasticises" and adds strength to the wood fibre.
Thank you for sharing. I also enjoy using it on outdoor tool handles. I find it’s similar to “lotion” for wood. You can keep adding it over time as the wood drys out. It hydrates and moisturizes the wood preventing splitting and rotting. Thank you again for the tips.
Is it worth applying a light coat of lacquer over this to use as a table top finish?
Depending the product. I would test first. Oil and water based products can react differently with each other.
What is your suggestion to clean and finish a cedar shingle sided shed?
That would depend on the budget and time you’re looking to invest. Oil finishes are budget friendly and are easy to apply but can dry out over time. A poly urethane will last longer but cost more and takes more time to apply.
Great video. I read that boiled linseed oil is better for indoor furniture and raw for outdoor. Do you agree? Is it important to put a coat of diluted linseed oil with mineral oil before putting on 100% linseed oil on the wood? Thank yo u.
Diluting the product could certainly help with the penetration but I have found linseed oil penetrates pretty well as is. With that in mind outdoor furniture would certainly need touchups and re-coating as it continues to dry out. I would think it’s a much better indoor product rather than outdoor. But if you don’t mind touchups seasonally linseed oil is the cheapest easiest finish to apply. It’s also very forgiving, if scratches do occur there’s not much on the surface that you have to repair, rather sand and reapply
@@TexasArtCompany Thank you so much for your reply. Do you have an opinon using boiled or raw linseed oil on outdoor furniture? Great video and great thread.
Can i use pre stain before BLO? I have a maple desk.
It’s a much “lighter finish” for a desk but if you plan to reapply in the future this product should work well.
Trying to treat the 2x4s I used as the framework to my chicken coop. I should have bought treated...I know. Is linseed oil a good way to preserve the 2x4s?
It would certainly be the cheapest but will require a few coats and may need a few more down the line depending the weather conditions. Spar or polyurethane might hold up better but will cost a bit more. An oil based product in general will always be more resistant against weather and water.
Hey man, nice video. However, I'm having a hard time hearing what you're saying even with my volume on max. You might want to do something about it for further videos. Keep it up
Awesome feedback! Thank you. I’m looking into a wireless mic.
@@TexasArtCompany No problem man, in the mean time you can also boost the source audio using a free software like audacity, or directly in your video editing software (which is probably the easiest way to do it)
Hello not my native language what is the elbow grease and where do I buy it from store? Many thanks
Term for a “little hard work”. I wish they sold it 😂
Hi. Can you polyurethane afterwards? Thanks.
I would not mix them. If you’re looking to add a warmer look to the wood look into an oil based poly. That should give you the best of both.
Would this work on rough sawn cedar?
It should be good to seal the wood depending the desired use.
Throw in a bit of oil poly and it will really strengthen it up.
Nice tip 👍
Is Linseed Oil good for Cedar decks?
I wouldn’t recommend it for something outdoors with that much traffic.
Hi, what would you recommend for an outdoor acacia tiles deck? @@TexasArtCompany
I really like polyurethane for table tops
I agree. Linseed oil would not be my choice for something that gets a lot of traffic. Although it is a lot easier to fix scratches with an oil finish.
Interesting to see cultural differences across the world. In Nordic countries we would most likely stick to raw linseed oil for kitchen counters and similar. And give it a bit of coating every six months or so.
Good to add some Mineral Turps even 50/50 and it will get deep into the grain
Thanks for the tip
What about Tru-Oil gun stock finish?
I haven’t used it myself but a quick search and it looks like a solid stock finish. Easy wipe on, Easy Clean up
Tru oil is good stuff
I may have missed it, but it needs about a month to fully cure before it reaches its "Maximum" durability. Still not that durable. I use dewaxed shellac from flakes when I want a fast finish that looks good. It's much more durable than linseed oil.
I agree. The test really showed the lack of durability, but on the other hand it’s super easy to apply and cheap.
Pity about the smell from linseed oil, though it disappears eventually.
I don’t seem to mind it
comment (cos u asked nicely)
You rock 🪨
cant hear you
Thank you. I have since purchased a wireless and wired mic. I hope to correct this going forward. Thank you for alerting me.
Can't hear you....
Thank you for the feedback. I have made changes hopefully fix this going forward.
Sorry i couldnt hear anything !
Ooo no, thank you. I’ll check it out
Audio is super low, barely audible even with my volume turned up to 100%
Thank you. I will make sure to adjust it
Sounds fine to me.
Oil that wood, baby.
🪵 🪵 🪵
Stay closer to your Microphone 🎤 plz
Thank you.
Excellent instructions.