How to use Boiled Linseed Oil and Paste Wax for a Wood Finish BLO and Pastwax
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- Опубліковано 30 тра 2024
- When I grab a tool I want to feel it not the finish. this is one of the big reasons I use a Boiled Linseed Oil and Paste Wax finish.
for More BLO Info: • Info on BLO, Boiled Li...
that being said BLO and Pastwax are not for every project. the finish is not that durable and it requires regular upkeep, but nothing can beat the feel in the hand.
I use Homemade BLO as I do not like getting the chemicals of the store bought stuff on your hands,b ut that being said I do not recommend making your own as it can be very dangerous.
For the past wax I like the cheap store bought stuff but there are times I would like to make my one, but that is a project for another day.
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You can buy my Paste Wax Here: for More BLO Info: ua-cam.com/video/9OO_niUTm1k/v-deo.html
for More BLO Info: ua-cam.com/video/9OO_niUTm1k/v-deo.html
I'm not a wood working junkie I was looking for a little paste wax info. After watching this video I wanted to make a career change then I woke up and remembered I'm 59. That ship has long sailed away.
It's never too late!!! Follow your heart, everything else will follow! Good luck
Well I'm 58...slowly switching over..
I work in the insurance/assessment and demolition industry, and I want to thank you for mentioning the rags and spontaneous combustion.
Many of the big fires my company works with are caused by spontaneous combustion.
oh ya. I actually have 2 videos showing it happening. I regularly get comments from people that do not believe it can happen. It takes very specific circumstances, but unfortunately those specific circumstances are a wadded up rag in a can.
Thanks for the info!! Finishing woodworking projects is one of the most satisfying and confusing parts, lol, there are so many options!
glad I could help. there are a lot of choices out there.
nothing beats the warm glo from a linseed oil finish; true classic finish.
Enjoy your videos, straight to the point, informative and no bs.
Thanks foor the video. Glad to see someone else likes that raw wood feel in your hands. Been using BLO and Paste Wax for about 40 years now. Great wood finish for tools.
Me too. I add burnt umber oil base artist tint to the mix and the colour is pleasing on most woods.
I was shown how to make a linspeed finish when I was a teen in the 60s by an old gunsmith. I add turps and artist tint (oil based of course) burnt umber for a gunstock that had plastic finish that had lifted. A traditional hand rubbed oil finish and it came out well enough that at a range a fellow shooter refused to believe that I had done this myself. This is a lot less work and I will play with this very soon. Thank you.
I love a well hand rubbed BLO finish on a gun stock. It feels so good.
Downright sensuous. A hand rubbed finish is a lot of work but its near bulletproof and easy to care for. Serious eye candy no doubt.
James! Loving this and completely agree!!
My favourite woodworking channel, great work
Thanks Jack.
nicely done on this video sir. i love it.
love the idea of home brew linseed oil with out all the chemicals, thanks for the reminder it can burst into flames. I've sat my trash can in the middle of the yard at times un the past heheheheh,
thanks again, we let all the commercials roll, big thumbs up
dale
Great video. BTW, 10 minute mark: "rubbing it out." LOL.
A truly “hand rubbed” finish! Great video!!
lol yup.
Thanks a lot for this video. Really, really useful info!
nicely presented ....and LOVE the workshop utility apron..
I'm working to make an Elm dining room table ..straight from the tree (after 4 yrs seasoning) so this was invaluable to obtain a lustrous finish
thanks again
Thanks! I have 3 elm sabs on my shop floor that will become the dining table soon too. looking forward to what you make!
For years I have used a handmade mixture of raw BLO, turps and beeswax. smells wonderful!!
A great mix. There are so many recipes out there and everyone has their family.
Here's a tip that I've learned recently. Use Teflon thread tape on any place like your jar threads to help seal them, but at same time make it easier to remove the lids. Also enjoyed your video, as I'm still trying to learn about wood finishes. Thanks db
interesting. I have had good success with petroleum jelly too
maybe some saran wrap would work well also
My man. The real gems are always in the comments.
I've been using the paste wax alone here lately but I'm going to try BLO. Thanks for the tips!
+Stuart Arts I love how it brings out the color.
Oh my god, the pickle jar is actually kinda clean.
I remembered that i used blo without gloves and had an uh oh moment. Then remembered I'm a mechanic that gets everything from gas to oil to brake fluid and brake clean on my hands daily.. great video and great advice! Thank you!
Cheap in the US... plus $68 postage to Australia... :( Happens every time... You guys have so much variety of quality products but the postage makes it prohibitive to buy here.
I watch several woodworkers as I am just starting out. From the UK I found Paul Sellers and now in the US I've discovered you. I love the honest down-to-earth sensible, easy to understand, professional approach you have. Thanks Again.
+Michael Morris thanks that means a lot. I wish I could help you.
One of my favourite finishes too. I have made up my own BLO/Bees wax blend which is nice too, and a paste wax/3 in 1 oil blend for my iron and steel tools.
nice. I just like yo apply the BLO separately so it can soak in more but that is just me being weird. I like the 3n1 mix idea. I am going to have to try that.
I like your blo and paste wax finish I used that on a diston saw restoration. I followed your saw restoration instructions in your other video.
I experimented with it on a lathe project and used blo and coconut oil in lieu of paste wax turned out well.
Sweet! Coconut oil is another good one. it will not harden like a Bee's wax base but leaves a great feel.
Hey that Feed and wax really helped the table i made pop thanks for the info
Great. I love the smell of that stuff.
Great video! Thanks for talking about the combustion properties. I've seen a few videos and they say to be careful with this product. I myself tend to throw old oil rags with mild oil in the wash to reuse, then hang them to dry. I threw one of these rags in the wash and ran it through 3 times, then my wife accidently threw the load in the dryer and we almost burned our house down. RIP New Dryer :/. I like the finish of linseed oil. I like using it on wine barrel projects.
WOW! that sounds like a fun day. I have another video where I put them in a box and watch the box catch on fire. not the day you want to have.
Thank you for the advice
Thank you for the good information! I understand wanting to be able to feel the grain of the wood.
SO true. There are lots of great finishes out there this is just one.
I will have to try this on my carving mallet I made. I hope it makes the color of the handle pop. Thank you for showing this
that is one of the things I love about the oil. it really makes the wood grain come to life with out giving it a gloss.
I have used mineral oil and carnuba wax I LOVE the FEEL of it on my tool handles
+ken taylor very similar finish. Feels great in the hand.
Well done video. Easy to understand. Would like to see other types of finishes.
Thanks. I have a few other videos on some of my more common finishes.
Wright..........love the tutorial my man!
Great work!
+SWEATY PITS thanks. That means a lot!
Wood By Wright
i have tried polyurethane.looks good at first but after a while, it breaks down,with linseed oil ,it's durable and dependable and leave a natural look and feel which is very important to the customers!
Thanks for a really good video James!
Thanks Man. love playing with this stuff.
Great video, thanks! Looks like the perfect finish for a wood gun stock either rifle or pistol, as of course you are feeling the wood.
Exactly. Traditionally they will use 8-16 coats of BLO and build it up.
Another excellent video. Love it. I too love the scent of linseed oil. Wish I had access to the raw stuff, like you have, as I'd love to rub it in without gloves.
Thanks. I do have a video on how to make it.
another great video James another thing you can use for buffing out that wax is soft burlap
nice. it seems like everyone has their favorite. also heard paper bags, shoe shining brush, 1000 grit sandpaper, and my new favorite, Human hair.
Thanks! Exactly what I needed. I was doing some quick Walnut wall brackets to hold an oooold wood slalom waterski of my mom’s and I knew I’d never get to it if I didn’t do it quick. This was exactly what I needed. Thanks!
About 5 years ago I watched this video to learn more about finishing techniques in restoring old gun stocks. Today, I have restored over 200 stocks using this method and made almost 100k doing so as a side hobby to save money for my sons college! This is an incredible video!
Thanks man. Sounds like you've been having fun.
I've been using a blended oil finish with for years then apply a carnauba/beeswax hard paste wax on top. Lots of effort but brings the best out of any timber grain. If you want the same effect but don't want to blend your own then Liberon Finishing Oil is one of the best commercial blends and is one of my go-to blends. For wax, I use either Alfie Shine hard paste carnauba or Liberon Black Bison wax and build up 3 to 5 coats over the oil finish once oxidised. There's no better way of finishing projects imho. For better water resistance or wear resistance then hard wax oils are the things to use. You can apply these over finishing oil finishes but not over wax.
I have been working with the Bees Wax and Caruba Wax and oil finish......its the only finish Ive used on my handles other than a light weight shellac.....always loved Howards and now I have Pita's.
could not agree more! I am going to have to try Pita's some time!
Good video and happy I've found this channel. I'm a big fan of the Feed & Wax, too. Use it on my bench and other work surfaces for maintenance. For hand tools, I prefer shellac and wax.
Right on. it is great how it feels in the hand!
Hey James, good info. I've used blo as a base, sealer, " grain popper " Then after its had time to dry, I've put a oil based poly finish ( 3 to 4 coats) . Worked out pretty good.
that is what I think I will do on my wife's dresser. I like the color it gives the wood before the poly.
oh yeah. That Howard's feed n wax is great. refreshing smell too.
+RockYouVideos sure is. Love working with it.
Good finish, linseed oil, turpentine and varnish in equal quantities is a finish I have used for nearly 40 years but I will give this a go, thanks!
Got to love a good home mix. there are more recipes out there then woodworkers. so many great ways of doing it.
This is content that I do like 🤗
Good tips. I use paste wax all the time. I use it on my tools too!
sweet. Thanks!
Thanks James! So you really like oil finishes. 😃😃😃
LOL what would make you think that!
JESUS!!! Gives a whole new meaning to hand finished..
the best kind. LOL
I use this process on old wood cabinets - and type cases in my print shop. Most of them were unfinished when they were made - some as much as 100 years ago. I don't want to "refinish" them, but I do like to give them some protection and make them look a bit nicer than the old, dry wood I start with.... The linseed oil does put life back into old, dry wood. I also use the feed 'n' wax to refresh the finish now and then. It makes the old wood look good and helps me to keep it clean. Thanks for letting me know I have been doing the right thing...
Nice. Sounds like a lot of love to me!
After an extended period of time (years) BLO will eventually give a good smooth finish as it polymerizes and self levels. It's the sort of "human finish" that really old tools have. it's sort of like seasoning a cast iron pan, but with wood.
You season cast iron with wood? That's a new one...lol
@@MikeJ-pw7ig No, but both an aged linseed oil coating and the coating on your cast iron pans are polymerized oils. That's what makes them water resistant, and in some cases even waterproof. Aside from aesthetics, water resistance is a major reason why wood is finished with oil to begin with.
Great video! I always trying to use natural chemicals, like Linen seed oil in the first place, after about 10-15 years it's a huge different seen to how it affect the wood compared to syntetic stuff.
so true. love using it on most of my projects.
James great video sir you give pl lots information sir
Dad always liked these two but he liked adding Danish oil to mix!
Did this today already had one coat of linseed oil on the day before. I applied another coat of store bought linseed oil let it soak and this took a while . Then I wiped off the oil that didn't soak in. Then I waited a few hours and applied a coat of pastes wax and waited ten minutes and went over the wood with a torch flame for a few seconds an watched it soften up an then let it sit for fifteen minutes. Then I hand buffed it then repeated the application and torch softening. I buffed after waiting again and it came out great.
Sounds like a fun day! I always enjoy the finishing part!
Was thinking of this JUST TODAY!!!! Incredible...thanks...rr
thanks! glad you like it!
Wow! and an INSTANT RESPONSE....cheers...rr from Normandy, France
Looks good will try that today
I just love how simple it is. You really cant mess it up
Great video, cheers fella.
In the days before the advent of Loctite, old timers used BLO as a thread-locker too.
I've been using it for decades on my machine and tool surfaces, here in Florida the humidity is legendary, but it holds up very well.
Interesting! I will have to play with that! it sure does hold the lid to the jar on! LOL
Hi, I just found you channel and have subscribed . I enjoyed your information and appreciate your easy going manner, nothing pretentious like some of the "celebrity" wood workers who are so full of themselves.
Thanks Bob. I just like having fun in the shop!
These are very good tips my friend,I love it awesome video bro :)
thank you! this is my favorite part of the work.
No problem good one bro :)
That was a delightfully quick answer. My husband and I are pouring our life savings into an old farmhouse and have wood questions in several areas. For example, we have patched the old maple floor. Once it's sanded, then what? And what about the Ash stair treads and risers. And the ash ceiling in the stairwell? Especially the ceiling--we don't want to do any maintenance once it's installed. Thank you for referencing Rubio monocote. That is apparently a good floor product.
Rubio monocote is actually originally made as a floor finish. incredibly easy to put down and nice flat finish. if you want more gloss and a bit more durable then I would go with Waterlox. Here is a video of me putting it down. ua-cam.com/video/MopMGkqaiPM/v-deo.html
Completely off the topic: I went to an antique store today that specializes in woodworking tools. I started talking to another customer about just starting out woodworking. He said, "you should look at James Wright's videos". I told him that you have been helping me with woodworking for a couple of months. We started talking about your different videos. I just thought you'd like to know that your videos get out there. It was fun.
LOL sounds like a good store. Where is it? not Philadelphia by chance?
Ludwig's Antiques in Glenside, PA (just outside of Philadelphia). It was about a 35 minute drive from my house. Well worth it. No Router Planes. They fly out of there. I got a Distri Saw, a wood jack plane and a moving fillister plane. (that one needs a ton of work). He has two gigantic rooms of wood working tools plus the basement.
+Bruce Brachman yup. Love that shop. Swing by whenever I can.
Wow. You actually get to Pennsylvania? We don't seem to have a large, organized group of woodworkers that I can find. At this point though, I only need one more tool. A route plane. One like the Stanley that you use. I will get the Veritas router plane when they are back in stock. After that, it is just practicing and doing. The tools I bought yesterday are just 'wanted' tools. Not really needed. Have to sharpen everything.
New subscriber. Saw you on Matt's channel & and glad I found you. Thanks for making the videos
Thanks! love hanging out with Matt. just a lot of fun! thanks for the sub!
I had no idea the paper towels might combust, thanks for that tip.
it needs the right circumstances but they can!
Your dad told me you had gone "hand tool". Glad to find your site. Linda will be excited to see what happened to the little kid who used to make faces at people in church when you were 2 or 3. Nice video. My shop is a 24 X 48 with 24" Delta planer, 24" double drum sander, a 60" stroke sander, 2 RAS, 2 drill presses, two table saw, two 12" chop saws, 2 shapers, and most of the common power tools. Having said that I am finding I can do some things faster and better with hand tools. Keep up the good work.
Great to see you on here! I have so many great memories in your shop. It makes it's way into my videos often as the place where I made my first woodworking project. A Cub Scout Pine Wood Derby car. Are you still at the same place?
Oooops, Linda told me I had you mixed up with your little brother. We built a new House next to where we used to live and 9 years ago added a two story 24 X 48 shop with 10 foot ceilings. Designed it with external ship house so everything from the machines on the second floor goes down under the floor and out to the chip house. First floor is metal working, welders, torches, abrasive chop saw etc. The shop is on a hillside so the top floor is level with my driveway and the lower floor is at ground level on the other side.
WOW! that seems like quite the shop! now you are making me really jealous!
@@WoodByWright you should go visit and make us a vid lol
Thanks man, great info.
Glad you like it! thanks for watching!
Thanks for the advice I will defiantly use this finish. Congrats on the subscription increase.
thank you and thank you!
Great information thanks 👍
+Michael Kerwin my pleasure.
Maybe you could do a video watching the guy who makes your oil at his facility? Very nice video buddy.
+BearKat Wood I asked him but he does not want the liability. Why I am not using his name. Maybe sometime.
Fair enough appreciate the fast response i was thinking it Coul make him Money but with todays world the way it is he is probably doing a smart business move the market is probably too small to compete with the big box stores. Like so many other things in our world It wont be long untill there are no incentives for the little guy to have a good. Product and be able to find a market to support it ? People like Walmart and Home Depot have so much buying power no one can compete other than Amazon these days its quickly going to become a boring world if everything. Continues on that path i just had that conversation with my 31 year old daughter and she agreed that her generation Thought that one kind of wrong and the internet may have moved too fast but it is what it is
Looking to certain & sell a beehive, therefore natural/ nontoxic. Unfortunately doing is more than I can do as a new beek.
I've seen things like BLO-Turpenine- beeswax (old recipe that Boy Scouts use?) , and am wondering a blending of techniques for my needs.
Something like using Tung Oil-Wax (maybe use the microcrystaline &/or parafin?) Also, treating with Eco Wood, then vinegar- steel wool stain?
Good info.
thanks!
Nice way to finish wood. I'd also suggest trying to combine (via a warm mixture) the BLO & PW, then using high grit sand paper (like 1000 grit) to work it into the wood, letting it soak & wiping it off. Do that 2 to 3 times, then buff it up. Great work................Steve
Thanks. I have tried similar methods but I prefer to apply the Blo separately that just seems to soak in further. but everyone has their favorite. I think there are more ways of doing it then there are people. LOL
Great video!
thanks!
This sort of approach is great for food safe finishes as well, on turned items like bowls & platters (although, obviously make sure your BLO & wax is food safe / chemical free).
definitely!
James, a good video as usual.
I would like to offer some insight into the use of any of the drying oils.
And you made a good point NOT to instruct people on how old fashioned "Boiled" linseed oil is made. Today there is a version called "Polymerized" where the oil is heated in what is more or less a vacuum or at least oxygen free chamber. This is not for the DIY community.
Thin coats I have found is much better than soaking or applying 2-3 or more coats the same day.
The chemistry is simple, if the oil is applied too thick or to much at once, it will almost never dry and cure.
My Motto for 45 years has been: Oil once a day for a week, once a week for a month, once a month for a year and then... Once a year there after.
Yes, some of my work is actually not ready to go out the door for a year but, if the customer is willing to do the monthly and yearly oiling... then it can go out the door the second month after the first coat of oil is applied.
In regards to Paste Wax though... read the ingredients... there is little to no oil in it. What makes the Was a paste is solvents like Mineral Spirits.
So, gloves are somewhat a requirement these days.
I make my own Paste wax and it is a slower drying one because I use Pure Turps as the solvent and a drying oil as part of my personal blend.
Keep up the great work, I hope you do not mind a veteran of 45 years of woodworking chiming in.
Walter
aka Dusty Splinters
thanks for the great info!
I have a ton of experience with linseed oil and wax. Bottom line, it works well enough inside, but outside in the sun/wind/rain fuggetaboutit. I live down in Mexico, in just a few months it looks like bare unfinished wood. The best exterior finish we have found is a Canadian product, Permachink... zero VOC, non toxic, developed to finish and seal log cabins... Canadian winter, Baja summer, Permachink takes a lickin and keeps on tickin.
Yep that's good stuff I've used it a few times.
I have been experimenting with melted wax finishes lately. Using a heat gun and a rag, it applies easy and soaks in deep takes a bit more time but only needs one application. I am trying it on allot of my laser etched pictures because it is easy to re-flow and buff and it isn't picking up as much laser dust.
right on that works fantasticly!
I really loved this video...feels like home to me...even though I live in miami..ha..thanks for sharing dude!!!
LOL thanks!
believe it or not lol...great work on things like the lighting and audio too..I notice it all..rock on..
thank you. I still have a lot more I want to improve but all good things in time.
Good video! Very helpful! Thanks James!
thanks! glad you like it!
I finished a walnut coffee table with 6+ coats of tung oil 20 years ago and it still looks great! IMHO, poly is difficult to apply without it looking like plastic.
Very true.
I love your videos man 🙌🏻
Thanks. If there is ever something you want to see. Let me know.
@@WoodByWright really appreciate it thank u so much I'm Kyle I'm from Ireland
@@WoodByWright I'm going to be a carpentar too as a job after I leave school I'm 15 at the moment
@@mcdonkey6617 sounds like fun!
@@WoodByWright I love your videos and I'm very grateful for your reply to me thank you very much 💙
I would like you to try something a little different with your paste wax...
I have been using BLO and topping with commercial paste wax, I have found that adding Kiwi shoe polish in a brown/oxblood or black, helps the drying, adds a tone to the finish, applies smoother and buffs higher... I melt the paste wax in boiling water and add the can of shoe polish, no mixing necessary, blends completely on its own, I am very pleased with this concoction.
interesting. I might have to try that some time!
I have a vintage Boelter metal -clad wood Carpenters box that I am restoring and I was thinking of just sanding and shellacking it but after this video I’m thinking more like I should use your boiled linseed oil/wax for the interior instead. Wish I could send you pictures of it.
great stuff James! i like using a mix of BLO and beeswax (sounds like I just might be making homemade paste wax)
right on. I just like to let the BLO soak in more before sealing it with the wax, but that is my own oddity
Thanks for sharing!! 👍
any time. thanks for watching.
I once tried applying boiled linseed oil with gloves on. My wife went mad saying I’d absolutely ruined her best pair of woollen mits.
I make my own wax paste with bees wax, carnauba wax, genuine gum turpentine and linseed oil, you haven’t to use turpentine substitute but I don’t know why not. You also call turpentine something different in the states, it might be white spirit. The wax I mix together at a ratio of two parts bees wax to one part carnauba. Then my mixture is 1 part wax, 1 part terps and 2 parts linseed oil. I’ve jiggled these ratios from a recipe I found online, but they had one part bees wax to one part carnauba. I prefer the smell with more bees wax and at 1:1 I found the finished product too hard to use efficiently.
However, the above cannot be used on utensils or bowls to be used with food, there I just use pure tung oil. They say you can also use Danish oil but I’m a little trepidatious as it has lots of additives in it, much like the bought BLO.
Another brilliant and very useful video, thank you.
Thanks man. Yup there more mixes out there then there are woodworkers.
this is good to know
Good info! Thanks
thanks. any time
Great video James ! Another good way to buff it out, try a shoe shine brush.
ya I have tried it. I have a friend that likes to use a paper bag.
Ha, that's my Dad....he always uses a paper bag.
there are so many great ideas. I think there are more methods then people to use them.
Internet’s a weird place. Last week end I watched your screw clamp segment. During the week I was moving stuff around and I came across some roughed out maple table legs that I never used and in the way now. Had better idea for the table. What was I going to do with them. Screw Clamps! Need more! ( not really but I had a set of Lee Valley kits kicking around as well).
This weekend I picked up some BLO, from HD as you had used in your video. Wow that maple was drinking in that stuff. Then I saw this video to day.
One thing I noticed. I had coated the clamp parts with the oil and noticed that one of the angled faces looked a little nasty. I used my low angled smother on the the oiled face and it cut a beautiful surface Easily. Later tried it with a shouting board on end grain. Dipped it in BLO wiping it of, planed the end! Fantastic.
Nie. fot yo love what a bit of oil or wax can do for a plane!
Wood By Wright I always wax the plane, never thought of “oiling the Wood”
James, very informative video! Thanks for the time to make it. I have a question on the paste wax. I practice aikido and we use wooden weapons made of various types of hardwood (red or white oak is most common). Our bokken (wooden sword)and jo (wooden staff) occasionally need to be resurfaced and after sanding we use boiled linseed oil. But we've never used the paste wax. The BLO gives it a great looking finish and really makes the wood grain pop, but as these are used in contact with other wooden weapons in training they can take a bit of abuse. Do you think that applying a coating of paste wax would be a benefit at all?
the paste wax seals the wood pores so they do not dry out too fast. it is not very protective though.
I use BLO on my wood gun stocks. About 60-70 hand rubbed coats. Comes out like glass in the end with a very good, hard protective surface.
hats off to you. that is dedication right there. but what a nice finish it is.
It is. Once I found out you were also a big fan of BLO, you topped my "favorite" list! HAHA. Glad to follow you. My wife loves her little box from firewood I made, which came from your idea. Was some fun chisel work !
Sweet! thanks. your wife has great taste!
You should emphasise on the combustible properties of the store bought linseed oils and product with linseed oils in them. As you stated, store bought products have other chemicals added to them, that in the right environment can produce a lot of heat! All rags, whether paper or fabric should dipped in water and laid out to dry before discarding.
Very important. There are many a story of shop fires from poorly handled finish rags! May not be as prevalent in small shops, but in older and larger production shops, safety wasn't always implied!
Nice video!
I actually have a video showing it bursting into flames. I've done it a few times for demonstration sake. Surprisingly this can happen with pretty much any oil. Even vegetable oil soaked rags can combust. Any oil that can polymerize can also heat up.
Hey Buddy. I understand the. Risk of making the Lindseed oil. On your own and all but as. A retired Commercial Woodworker. Who still is passionate about. Wood and enjoys it as a hobby now how about doing a tour. With your guy. That makes it that may give him the ability. To plug his product and possibly boost sales if he wants. As well as giving many others the ability to get and use the non commercially. Available stuff in the big. Box stores these days many years ago in Florida I used to buy pure boiled lindseed oil in a local hardware store. And we. Added our own. Drying chemicals We. Used laquer thinner as we used it on outdoor patios Where the VOCs. Where not much of a issue in the Florida sun and heat it was dry By the next day ! They were usually Terra-cotta tile. Patios and we applied with a standard commercial mop head and handle as it was used many times on large commercial properties like hotel pool decks and patios
I actually have another video on making it by your self. My friend does not sell it. he made a vacuum boiler so that he could make it for himself and make his natural paints.
There. are. correct and incorrect. ways to. use. punctuation. Makes it. hard. to read. when used. improperly.
A good coating for wood. Like!
sure is. Thanks!
Hi one of the things I have found that works well for me is blo plus bees wax 60/40 I rub this in to my hand planes and wood surfaces. I took Paul Sellers oil rag in can and modified this to 40/60 and I wipe it on the planes soul as required. This works for me, and he'll I just a weekend warrior.
Right on. I do the same thing. I have a couple videos on that too. love the mix for lubricating tools!
I use Howard's Feed 'N' Wax on my guitars. It seems to keep the nitrocellulose laquer from becoming brittle. My "homemade" guitars get Violin Varnish but all my tool get BLO/Paste Wax. My paste wax is a mixture of beewax, carnuba wax, orange oil, raw tung oil. The recipe is a consistency thing for me but guessing I would say 75% beeswax, 15% carnuba wax, 2% orange oil, 3% raw tung oil. I use the orange oil to soften the carnuba wax. I do it by "feel."
Thanks a lot!
my plesure
Hey sorry for the thumb down, my 1 year old was button mashing! We are both big fans though, best wishes from the UK
+Lee Youens lol been there done that.
Thanks for taking your time to read my comment/inquiry. I've purchased two Douglas Fir anorak chairs. The manual recommended using BLO to protect the unsealed stained finish. The chairs will be used regularly outdoors in the warm Southern California weather. Should I use the BLO with paste? If no, you suggested a poly if heavily used. Sorry, I'm a newbie so I'm not familiar with various terms. Did you mean polyurethane as poly? If yes, any poly recommendations if BLO with paste doesn't work for Douglas Fir anorak chairs?
I would not use Poly (polyurethane) outside as most do not do well in sun light. the most durable finish for out doors is a marine varnish. like this one. amzn.to/2w1Obnc that will look great for a year to 5 years depending on use but will need to be refinished from time to time. BLO and paste wax is the old way of doing it. it does not last long but it is SO MUCH easier to repair and re coat. you do not have to scrape off the old stuff to refinish it you just re apply it. but you need to do it more. 6 months - 1 year apart depending on use. Just once the finish starts looking poor. and yes you would do it just like this pore on the BLO let it soak in then rub in the wax to fill the poors. hope that helps. if you have more questions send me an email as I do not see reply.
This is a great video and helped me progress past a single or double coat of Danish Oil and calling it done. It's all very new to me so I'm watching a number of your videos.
One question, I have made a couple of outdoor projects I've left mostly unfinished, however I have a swing seat that I'm keen to protect. I've personalised the top and would like to protect it but as it will be a gift, apply a finish that will be long lasting but still allow the wood grain and personalised lettering burnt in to show through. Any recommendations as I guess BLO won't last..... thanks again!
Thanks Rob that means a lot. for an outdoor finish, I generally suggest getting a decking sealer that will last you a cople years before it needs to be redone. other than that a marine varnish or an epoxy might buy you another year or two, but then it costs 3 times as much.
Thanks for the video! I'm looking for something to use on a rifle stock. I'm thinking of trying this versus poly or varnish.
There is a reason that is the traditional method.