I have been in the coatings & finishing trades all my life. Even ran several sections for the Government as my main career for close to 20 yrs. Simply put, this was one of the best & easy to follow demonstrations out there. Very good job at not over complicating the process Fabian.
Hi, that’s a really encouraging and nice a comment as you could wish for. Just a quick question on the oil and fine sandpaper segment. I have an American Black Walnut gun stock that I would like to improve if I could. I’ve noticed on close inspection that there are small pockets in the natural grain and areas that, maybe, by using the oil and sandpaper method, might work by filling in and smoothing out those areas. I’m presuming that the oil and sandpaper combination creates a kind of paste. Kind regards Mick.
All these years I never understood the intricacies of boiled linseed oil and waxing - I made the mistake years ago of thinking BLO was oil and not a lacquer type finish and I left a visible layer of oil on an oak dresser and it set hard, bad news.But now I know how! Many thanks Fabian.
Hi Fabian, I watched your Vid and it was very informative, after reading through the comments and seeing how you responded to to almost everyone who asked a question I decided to Sub, this is the way to grow your channel by taking the time to interact with your subscribers, Great Job!!
Just finding this video and your channel now. Thank you for the very clear and excellent explanation of the process. I am about to finish the top of my workbench with this linseed oil and see what it looks like 👍
I have done as you explained on a kitchen countertop table. After the last application, I buffed the oil to a pretty shine. I waited 3 weeks and there are several moisture spots despite attempts to dry any water that comes in contact with the wood. I have only been able to remove these spots with baking soda but this also completely removes all the shine away. I would like to avoid wax and would love to hear any explanation as to why the shine apparently disappears and why these differences in shine/ matte areas appear.
BLO is just not the right finish for a kitchen countertop table. BLO is not a surface finish and therefore will not protect as well from water and stains. You want a finish that completely seals the surface.
Looks very nice to me. I just finished a small one cubic foot chest made out of 100+ year old cedar and will put a linseed oil finish in it. Should look nice with the solid brass hardware in addition to brass corners.
WOW -- why is this method not used more often?? It permits the natural beauty of the wood to be displayed....So satisfying!...... Those somber, shoe-polish stains get so tiresome.
This is very good. I use a lot of BLO but only on wooden tool handles. I never thought to apply it as a finish with wax. Thanks you. Best Wishes, Brendan.
Hi there Fabian, that piece of wood looked beautiful when you finished it. I'm inspired to do the same. it was easy and not expensive to do. Excellent video. Thanks.
I was shown to put it just like shelac. in thin coats. it takes for ever. basically one week to put it and another one till you can use it. but it absolutely worth the time. it has the nicest shine and touch .
Most informative tutorial on this subject. Your technique thoroughly helped me to finish my wooden chair with less time and effort. Thanks for sharing such an excellent method.
just make from gloss finish to a matte and natural finish on my bass guitar neck using boiled linseed oil.. its feel perfect n smooth.. thanks for the video..
Very nice video, thank you for making it. The end product is beautiful. After you have applied wax to the BLO finish, can you ever apply more BLO over the wax, or do you have to sand back to bare wood? Thank you.
Fabians channel is just silly good. It seems to be almost like youtubes best kept secret as he does a great job here! Hope he gets more subscribers as we wiewers would benefit of the most 💪
I like to work with wood, but used to avoid it many times because I hate dealing with varnish. It's not only expensive, but it's also toxic, and I don't want to get close to my newborn stinking of it. But then I started using linseed oil and it changed everything. It's not only easier to use, but it also smells much better.
Very nice video. One question - is there a difference between finishing a single piece of wood that you can lay flat and a fully assembled piece of furniture? In an assembled piece of furniture, not all of the surfaces will be horizontal. So do I have to worry about the oil running down the side of any vertical pieces?
Very well explained. So many times procedures lack necessary information, but you have done a commendable job explaining how to apply BOL and very importantly why. Well done indeed!
Very helpful video. I love the matte finish and feel of the wood. I will use this process for a teak dining table. If I use paste wax to finish should I just lightly sand when I reapply to BLO annually? Also, can I use 0000 steel wool instead of sand paper? Thank you.
Thanks so much for this video! I bought a 2nd hand pine dining set that is really sturdy, but the wood seems like it was never finished beyond staining. I used Murphy's cleaner and then BLO (using your tutorial) and the pieces already look great. I am waiting for the 1st 24-48 hours before I do the 2nd coat. In your video, it looked like you sanded for a long time. Will a quick sanding be better than no sanding at all or should I skip the sanding if I'm not willing to take as much time as you did. There is a table, bench, and four chairs, so it would require a lot of sanding. Thanks so much!!
@@FabiansTinyWorkshop Thanks for your super fast response! I think I'll sand the table top and a few places where the wood is not really smooth, but I like the kind of rustic look. Thank you again!
Hi Fabian, looking at the workshop tool drawers behind you and would love to produce something similar for my machine shop. Have you by any chance made a video of when you made these drawers?
Thank you very much for this video. I was almost scared off using boiled linseed oil because other articles said it takes 1 week to dry and needs 10-20 coats! This made it very clear and approachable for a beginner like me. Many articles combine the boiled linseed oil with turpentine (I have gum turpentine). Is there any reason I should do this, or is it best to always just use straight boiled linseed oil? I have sanded back the surface of an old desk and now need to oil it. Also, I don't have a workshop. Will it be a problem if I just do this outdoors? Will the moisture overnight cause any problem? It is summer and the climate is quite dry, not humid, but can be between 17-37 degrees C. Also will dust be an issue?
I don't see any reason to thin the BLO with turpentine. As long as it's dry outdoors should be fine. Dust can be an issue and should be lightly sanded for the last application.
Ideally antique furniture should be restored with the original kind of finish. If your furniture had a gloss finish (laquer/shellac...)BLO is not the right finish. If it had a wax/oils finish you can use BLO. Be aware that it will not remove scratches. On the contrary it might highlight those scratches.
I wish you did part of the wood with stain and BLO I have an axe handle that I hung and sanded, applied 3 coats of BLO and it is smooth. Feels nice in the hand. Someone said for BLO apply each day for a week, each week for a month and each month for a year to get a solid finish.
If I apply boiled linseed oil and allow it to totally dry, can I then apply a coat or two of clear varnish on top of it? I have almost finished making a coffee table and want to bring out the grain, but ALSO have harder wearing surface. Many thanks for your videos they are super informative.
I depends on the varnish you are using. You can't put water based varnish over boiled linseed oil. But you can put oil based varnish over boiled linseed oil.
Fabian, love your videos. Wonderful information. Question: can a shellac be put ontop of BLO, then a water based product? Clients huge piece is over 150 yrs old and needs hydration before minimal whitewash effect to lighten the wood tones and highlight all the hand carvings. Thanks in advance
Great video, can you please explain the benifit of using wax, does this offer more protection from dirty hands.. I have young kids and worried the doors will still get marked.
No it will not be hard like shellac it reminds me more of the consistency of dried jam. That's the reason why it's not a finish you put "on" the wood but it's a finish that's "in" the wood. You have to wipe it off before it gets sticky.
It's not toxic, much better than a varnish. But it's highly flammable, so put any rags you use to apply it on water afterwards. Apparently it can combust spontaneously, but I never saw that happening. Also, don't drink it, in this case it would be toxic. If it's linseed, it needs to be boiled, otherwise it's just a common oil.
Would the surface continue to get more and more glossy if one continued to apply more and more coats in this fashion? Also, would you know, if one used artist oil paint (which is linseed oil-based) in the same fashion would it perform in a similar fashion as BLO? Once the BLO is fully dry does buffing increase gloss at all?
BLO is too soft (rubbery, gummy) to be used as a glossy top coat. It's meant to penetrate the wood. If you want a glossy oil finish you have to use an oil resin blend like danish oil or tru oil.
I'm an artist and just bought a wood paint pallet for oil paints, it's not thick like your plank of wood but someone suggested to use boiled linseed oil for preparing it before using it, I also just read that Tung oil is better and doesn't mold- what do you think?
If it is for indoor use it will not mold. Just put it on, let it soak in for a few moments and take off the excess. Same goes with tung oil. Only difference is that pure tung oil (not the so called "tung oil finish") taks several weeks to cure.
@@FabiansTinyWorkshop Yes, I totally agree,. I was just curious. BTW, great videos, and you picked up a new subscriber. I initially left the following comment thinking your answer was from the question I posted to a video about Japanning, but i left it there for you, in the event you decide you want to refinish some tools. : however the coating is being baked, and when one seasons an iron skillet, an unsaturated oil adheres better to the iron, and forms a stronger polymer than an oxidized oil (Boiled linseed is oxidized, double bonds are very fragile and oxidize very quickly).
Very quick and simple video. Thanks so much, I got what I needed. One suggestion, for future video like this (obviously not on projects, but on scrap wood like this video). If you could leave a small space toward the end of the piece showing the difference between oiled and non-oiled and also a another small space next to that wax and unwaxed. Just to see a difference between all them.
Probably too old to expect a response but im doing a larger piece of wood and when you are applying the BLO with the fine sand paper, can you do that with any sort of machine? Im looking to apply this type of finish to a large dining table and a pair of end tables. Doing the large table like you did just this small piece looks like it would be insanely exhausting LOL... Thanks for the video.
You can but I would not recommend it because it takes very long to cure (up to weeks) and might stay sticky if it's not cleaned from mucilage to make it suitable for wood finishing.
If you wanted to have a deep shine take the palm of your hand and rub it in not a quick process but the results were pretty Spectacular from my point of view
Hi Fabian. Question from a new subscriber here too. Thanks for this video by the way. I'm finishing an oak table. I bought it intentionally unfinished because I wanted to make it look and feel as natural as possible. I like that it is so light and not yellow-ish as you often see with oak furniture. I tried to apply a water repellant coating, but unfortunately the table feels too rough for me. It makes it a bit uncomfortable. The table has been sanded, but you feel the grain and there are these little 'hairs' and splinters standing up and coming off the wood. What would be a good way of finishing this table, so that it retains as closely as possible its natural light oak color, while being protected, and also being soft to the touch? Sorry for the long question and thank you for your answer.
The first coat of a finish can sometimes raise the grain (the little 'hairs' and splinters standing up). Lightly sand with fine grit sandpaper and repeat the application. Since most oil finishes tend to yellow over time I guess an oil finish might be the wrong choice for you. A whipe on poly is durable but it can look artificial. And since oak is an open grain wood you might have to think about filling the grain. I am not an expert on finishing other than with oil or shellac so I'm afraid I can't give you any good advice.
Hey there,Gents! I use for sanding, a angle grinder, speed dial, whit a velcrou sand paper attachment. I think becouse of the rotative speed, the resoult's are so much bether, becouse i for a harry piece of wood in to a fine work of art. U could fight the hairy grains by chaising it up- ords, changing the position of rotation. Wood is a Gift of Good for Humanity, that transforms the Time in to Wondefull abjects whit fyu skilfully hands from...Just a Seed, imagine😲👉🤔w(°ｏ°)w
@@FabiansTinyWorkshop Would a white wax keep the yellowing toned down? Or does the wax have any penetrative effect at all, over the Boiled Linseed Oil?
Hi Fabian , i have a small problem with my wardrobe ; i have been absent for many months and when i cameback i have found mold in my wardrobe and i tried many times to clean it but it doesn't work ! So i think that i will use this oil then i will paint it with white lacquer ! so what do you think please ? Thank you and sorry for my english
Hi, Fabian, can I use this boiled linseed oil technique to protect the interior and exterior of a raised-bed vegetable garden? Will it be a food-safe technique? Thank you so much for the great video. I subscribed.
Hi Fabian, I have a live edge dining table. We want to refinish the top. Should I do this process but with Mineral oil? What would you use and would you seal it?
Definitely not mineral oil. Mineral oil is a non drying oil so the surface will stay oily. If you like a natural finish that appears to have no visible finish on the surface I would recommend boiled linseed oil or pure tung oil. Those will pop the grain and those are two oils that will polimarise (cure). If you like to protect the wood from spilled liqueds and/or want a glossy or semie glossy finish a surface finish like dahish oil, polyurethane or laquer will be the finish of choice. I probably would finish it with danish oil.
Dear Fabian, I love the smell, touch, and feel of un-finished wood. What is a good preservative for indoor furniture that maintains wood's properties as much as possible?
There is no finish that maintains the look and feel of unfinished wood and offers sufficient protection. If you want protection you have to make a compromise. A renaissance wax finish or boiled linseed oil combined with wax might be a good compromise but a spilled glas of red wine for exampe might still stain the wood. The more finish on the wood surface the better the protection. Maybe take some scrap wood and do a test with wax, boiled linseed oil, danish oil (or any other finishing oil) laquer etc.. to find out what might be the best compromise for your project.
The wax will make it more shiny and provides a little protection against water but it can also make it more slippery. On outdoor stairs I would not bother with the wax. You decide.
Over water based stains immediately after it has dried. On oil-based stains only after the oil has fully hardened and even then, there's the possibility the linseed oil will remove some of the color of the stain.
I found that one coat of boiled linseed oil was sufficient. Adding more coats did not seem to achieve anything or improve the appearance. Am I doing something wrong ? I wipe off after 10 minutes and I wait 24 hours between coats .
It depends on how much oil is absorbed by the wood. Sometimes applying only one coat leaves dry spots on the surface. For dense wood, a single application may be sufficient.
I just purchased a double boiled linseed oil and the smell is a little too strong for me. Do you have any recommendations on reducing the smell or a natural alternative for DBLO? I purchased it for kitchenware and don’t think I want it on my cutting boards with its current smell.
Hallo Fabian, do you think I could use this process on the red oak plywood I am putting on the walls of my house? Or do you think it would be too yellow? What would you recommend? Danke!
Thanks for sharing. I’ve got a Maple/Walnut shop cabinet and am undecided on how to finish. I’ll have to test some Maple and Walnut with BLO. That said, can you finish over the top so you never have to oil again? Perhaps a sanding sealer and then clear?
If you put a piece of white paper on the wood and write with pen on paper, will there be oil stains on the paper back? Will linseed oil protect the wood from water stains? (e.g. putting a cold cup and a round water stain appear on wood) Thanks.
This will only happen as long the oil is still liquid. Once the oil is cured (dryed, polymerize) it's hard and not oily anymore. Oils like boiled linseed oil, tung oil, walnut oil will polymerize. Oils like baby oil, mineral oil or olive oil will stray oily thats why you should not use them as a finish. An oil finish does not protect as efficient as a Polyurethane or Lacquer.
... and what do I do with my bench? Leave big greasy areas. Guess I will have to wipe them away with some turps. Otherwise, it does wonders in bringing out the colour.
can you apply the BLO when the workpiece is standing and it will cure and give a thick enough coat? or must you apply it one side at a time with it pooling with gravity with the face side up one face at a time? I have applied it to a pair or bench legs with them standing and I dont know if its enough cured on the wood... I have gave two coats so far. thanks
It does not matter if the workpiece is standing or not since linseed oil ist not meant to form a thick layer on the surface. It's too soft for that. BLO has to penetrate the wood and the excess needs to be wiped off before it starts to get tacky.
@@FabiansTinyWorkshop thanks whats the maximum amount of coats to add to a wooden workbench and for what reason you would add that amount of coats. thanks
@@ukguitaryogi2888 Two maybe three coats. Just so that the oil will impregnate the wood. The oil will polymerize in the wood and the wood will not be able to absorb any additional coats of oil.
It depends if you are looking for a durable and waterproof finish. Boiled linseed oil will make the wood only somewhat water resistant. So if for example some red wine is spilled. It will still penetrate the wood.
What do you do if you put too much on and there is a buildup and its not being absorbed or drying? Its just stick and collecting dirt. Must you use thinners or something like that?
![Lp. Сердце Вселенной #30 ДВА В ОДНОМ [Один человек]• Майнкрафт](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/nrXy15orKhY/mqdefault.jpg)
I have been in the coatings & finishing trades all my life. Even ran several sections for the Government as my main career for close to 20 yrs. Simply put, this was one of the best & easy to follow demonstrations out there. Very good job at not over complicating the process Fabian.
Thank you! I really appreciate that :)
Hi, that’s a really encouraging and nice a comment as you could wish for. Just a quick question on the oil and fine sandpaper segment. I have an American Black Walnut gun stock that I would like to improve if I could. I’ve noticed on close inspection that there are small pockets in the natural grain and areas that, maybe, by using the oil and sandpaper method, might work by filling in and smoothing out those areas. I’m presuming that the oil and sandpaper combination creates a kind of paste. Kind regards Mick.
This one glows
Gets my vote too. By far the most expert instruction and expertly relayed information video ......and I did look through an awful lot of them...
Rag Tie can this be lacquered over with a clear varnish,thank you.
Thank you for this very clear demonstration. Can’t wait to try this on my freshly stripped antique solid walnut woodwork!
I remember my father using linseed oil on walnut gunstocks. The depth and beauty that it brought out in the grain of wood was amazing.
Thank your for this amazing video, I'm new to this wood working world and this is so simple I don't think I can mess it up.
All these years I never understood the intricacies of boiled linseed oil and waxing - I made the mistake years ago of thinking BLO was oil and not a lacquer type finish and I left a visible layer of oil on an oak dresser and it set hard, bad news.But now I know how! Many thanks Fabian.
You are welcome :)
Hi Fabian, I watched your Vid and it was very informative, after reading through the comments and seeing how you responded to to almost everyone who asked a question I decided to Sub, this is the way to grow your channel by taking the time to interact with your subscribers, Great Job!!
Thank you Jeff! I truly appreciate that! :)
Thank you so much! I am oiling a piece tomorrow and I was very nervous that i was going to mess it up.
Just finding this video and your channel now. Thank you for the very clear and excellent explanation of the process. I am about to finish the top of my workbench with this linseed oil and see what it looks like 👍
Thanks for the video. I heat the BLO before applying it to tool handles and it soaks in better.
Thankyou Fabian this video has been a tremendous help in my current project, I look forward to watching many more of your videos
I have done as you explained on a kitchen countertop table. After the last application, I buffed the oil to a pretty shine. I waited 3 weeks and there are several moisture spots despite attempts to dry any water that comes in contact with the wood. I have only been able to remove these spots with baking soda but this also completely removes all the shine away. I would like to avoid wax and would love to hear any explanation as to why the shine apparently disappears and why these differences in shine/ matte areas appear.
BLO is just not the right finish for a kitchen countertop table. BLO is not a surface finish and therefore will not protect as well from water and stains. You want a finish that completely seals the surface.
I’m doing this on front poles on porch southern yellow pine 5 of them I’m using 1 part turpentine 3 parts linseed oil looks awesome.
Looks very nice to me. I just finished a small one cubic foot chest made out of 100+ year old cedar and will put a linseed oil finish in it. Should look nice with the solid brass hardware in addition to brass corners.
Thank you for this video. I’m wanting to coat a maple slingshot in linseed oil and this was very helpful
WOW -- why is this method not used more often?? It permits the natural beauty of the wood to be displayed....So satisfying!...... Those somber, shoe-polish stains get so tiresome.
Wow!!
Simple, easy and beautiful!!
Thank you for sharing!
Thanks Fabian. I never leave it soak in but will follow your advice and try that next. Good video.
Very nice project Fabian I always did like the oil finish better than poly
Thank you Opa :)
This is very good. I use a lot of BLO but only on wooden tool handles. I never thought to apply it as a finish with wax. Thanks you.
Best Wishes, Brendan.
Thank you.
Take care, Fabian
OMG. Thank you! Love your accent and your demonstration. I will be referencing this video for a long time. Very helpful.
Hi there Fabian, that piece of wood looked beautiful when you finished it. I'm inspired to do the same. it was easy and not expensive to do. Excellent video. Thanks.
I was shown to put it just like shelac. in thin coats. it takes for ever. basically one week to put it and another one till you can use it. but it absolutely worth the time. it has the nicest shine and touch .
Most informative tutorial on this subject. Your technique thoroughly helped me to finish my wooden chair with less time and effort. Thanks for sharing such an excellent method.
Thank you! I really appreciate that!
just make from gloss finish to a matte and natural finish on my bass guitar neck using boiled linseed oil.. its feel perfect n smooth.. thanks for the video..
Very nice video, thank you for making it. The end product is beautiful. After you have applied wax to the BLO finish, can you ever apply more BLO over the wax, or do you have to sand back to bare wood? Thank you.
You have to remove the wax first.
Fabians channel is just silly good. It seems to be almost like youtubes best kept secret as he does a great job here! Hope he gets more subscribers as we wiewers would benefit of the most 💪
Thank you! I truly appreciate that! :)
Fabian's Tiny Workshop Youre a star! 💪
Holy cow! With the wax at the end there, I can almost feel the pressure you put on it slipping right off. Awesome job.
I like to work with wood, but used to avoid it many times because I hate dealing with varnish. It's not only expensive, but it's also toxic, and I don't want to get close to my newborn stinking of it. But then I started using linseed oil and it changed everything. It's not only easier to use, but it also smells much better.
Very nice video. One question - is there a difference between finishing a single piece of wood that you can lay flat and a fully assembled piece of furniture? In an assembled piece of furniture, not all of the surfaces will be horizontal. So do I have to worry about the oil running down the side of any vertical pieces?
If it's running you can simply wipe off the oil. Unlike lacquer it will not cure instantly.
Very well explained. So many times procedures lack necessary information, but you have done a commendable job explaining how to apply BOL and very importantly why. Well done indeed!
Thank you! Appreciate it!
Excellent!
Very helpful video. I love the matte finish and feel of the wood. I will use this process for a teak dining table. If I use paste wax to finish should I just lightly sand when I reapply to BLO annually? Also, can I use 0000 steel wool instead of sand paper? Thank you.
Sorry that my reply took so long. Yes you can use steel wool
Thanks so much for this video! I bought a 2nd hand pine dining set that is really sturdy, but the wood seems like it was never finished beyond staining. I used Murphy's cleaner and then BLO (using your tutorial) and the pieces already look great. I am waiting for the 1st 24-48 hours before I do the 2nd coat. In your video, it looked like you sanded for a long time. Will a quick sanding be better than no sanding at all or should I skip the sanding if I'm not willing to take as much time as you did. There is a table, bench, and four chairs, so it would require a lot of sanding. Thanks so much!!
If you're not willing to take as much time you answered your own question. ;-)
@@FabiansTinyWorkshop Thanks for your super fast response! I think I'll sand the table top and a few places where the wood is not really smooth, but I like the kind of rustic look. Thank you again!
Hi Fabian, looking at the workshop tool drawers behind you and would love to produce something similar for my machine shop.
Have you by any chance made a video of when you made these drawers?
I did not build them. I bought those a long time ago.
Thank you very much for this video. I was almost scared off using boiled linseed oil because other articles said it takes 1 week to dry and needs 10-20 coats! This made it very clear and approachable for a beginner like me.
Many articles combine the boiled linseed oil with turpentine (I have gum turpentine). Is there any reason I should do this, or is it best to always just use straight boiled linseed oil? I have sanded back the surface of an old desk and now need to oil it.
Also, I don't have a workshop. Will it be a problem if I just do this outdoors? Will the moisture overnight cause any problem? It is summer and the climate is quite dry, not humid, but can be between 17-37 degrees C. Also will dust be an issue?
I don't see any reason to thin the BLO with turpentine. As long as it's dry outdoors should be fine. Dust can be an issue and should be lightly sanded for the last application.
Fabian's Tiny Workshop
Looks beautiful! Can this be used to restore antique furniture with a few scratches?
Ideally antique furniture should be restored with the original kind of finish. If your furniture had a gloss finish (laquer/shellac...)BLO is not the right finish. If it had a wax/oils finish you can use BLO. Be aware that it will not remove scratches. On the contrary it might highlight those scratches.
Excellent demonstration thank you
Thanks, easy to follow and apply to my waiting cedar plank project.
I love your video Fabian! I like your style.
Great video. This is how I'll rub my wood in order to finish from now on!
Wow 😆
I have a large piece of wood I need to rub too. But I need help.
🤣🤣🤣
I wish you did part of the wood with stain and BLO
I have an axe handle that I hung and sanded, applied 3 coats of BLO and it is smooth. Feels nice in the hand.
Someone said for BLO apply each day for a week, each week for a month and each month for a year to get a solid finish.
What the hell?
If I apply boiled linseed oil and allow it to totally dry, can I then apply a coat or two of clear varnish on top of it? I have almost finished making a coffee table and want to bring out the grain, but ALSO have harder wearing surface. Many thanks for your videos they are super informative.
I depends on the varnish you are using. You can't put water based varnish over boiled linseed oil. But you can put oil based varnish over boiled linseed oil.
@@FabiansTinyWorkshop Thank you for your reply. Yes, I was thinking of an oil based varnish. Many thanks!
Now I know what to do with linseed oil thanks for posting, was not sure how many coats I could put on planter frame I made for the boss,
Fabian, love your videos. Wonderful information.
Question: can a shellac be put ontop of BLO, then a water based product? Clients huge piece is over 150 yrs old and needs hydration before minimal whitewash effect to lighten the wood tones and highlight all the hand carvings. Thanks in advance
Hello, shellac ontop of fully cured BLO works fine. If it works with other products I do not konw.
Thanks Fabian! Useful information.
Glad you like it :)
Cool tip Fabian. I really like the Linseed oil. I used it to my last video for a reclaimed wood and gives the it a very beautiful surface!
Thank you! Glad you like it :)
Great information, Fabian. That finish looks silky smooth. I remember my father using BLO to preserve his wooden ladders.
Thank you Dave! Glad you like it!
I put this boiled linseed on the wash line props and it keeps the bees' of the props.I didn't know it would bring up the wood like that thanks Fabian.
Thank you!
Great video, can you please explain the benifit of using wax, does this offer more protection from dirty hands.. I have young kids and worried the doors will still get marked.
It offers slightly more protection but mainly it provides a satin sheen.
Beautiful. Does this dry hard like shellac or it dry soft? When you say it dries a little tacky, you mean sticky?
No it will not be hard like shellac it reminds me more of the consistency of dried jam. That's the reason why it's not a finish you put "on" the wood but it's a finish that's "in" the wood. You have to wipe it off before it gets sticky.
@@FabiansTinyWorkshop ahhh ok. That makes sense. Thank you so much for sharing your knowledge with those of us trying to learn!
Is it poisonous because I keep getting mixed reviews. And does it need to be boiled linseed?
It's not toxic, much better than a varnish. But it's highly flammable, so put any rags you use to apply it on water afterwards. Apparently it can combust spontaneously, but I never saw that happening. Also, don't drink it, in this case it would be toxic. If it's linseed, it needs to be boiled, otherwise it's just a common oil.
@@DeyvsonMoutinhoCaliman top man been shitting my self using it incase something goes wrong and I end up looking like a novichok victim 🤣🤦🏼
Would the surface continue to get more and more glossy if one continued to apply more and more coats in this fashion? Also, would you know, if one used artist oil paint (which is linseed oil-based) in the same fashion would it perform in a similar fashion as BLO? Once the BLO is fully dry does buffing increase gloss at all?
BLO is too soft (rubbery, gummy) to be used as a glossy top coat. It's meant to penetrate the wood. If you want a glossy oil finish you have to use an oil resin blend like danish oil or tru oil.
@@FabiansTinyWorkshop Thank you.
I'm an artist and just bought a wood paint pallet for oil paints, it's not thick like your plank of wood but someone suggested to use boiled linseed oil for preparing it before using it, I also just read that Tung oil is better and doesn't mold- what do you think?
If it is for indoor use it will not mold. Just put it on, let it soak in for a few moments and take off the excess. Same goes with tung oil. Only difference is that pure tung oil (not the so called "tung oil finish") taks several weeks to cure.
Thank you very much. Is there a reason why you prefer boiled linseed oil, instead of raw. ?
The polymerization process is significantly faster. Raw linseed oil can take weeks to cure, boiled linseed oil about 24h.
@@FabiansTinyWorkshop Yes, I totally agree,. I was just curious. BTW, great videos, and you picked up a new subscriber. I initially left the following comment thinking your answer was from the question I posted to a video about Japanning, but i left it there for you, in the event you decide you want to refinish some tools. : however the coating is being baked, and when one seasons an iron skillet, an unsaturated oil adheres better to the iron, and forms a stronger polymer than an oxidized oil (Boiled linseed is oxidized, double bonds are very fragile and oxidize very quickly).
Very quick and simple video. Thanks so much, I got what I needed.
One suggestion, for future video like this (obviously not on projects, but on scrap wood like this video). If you could leave a small space toward the end of the piece showing the difference between oiled and non-oiled and also a another small space next to that wax and unwaxed. Just to see a difference between all them.
Thank you, these are good suggestions ;-)
I finally found it, the most wholesome comment section
xBMPR I can ruin that with one adjective. But I won’t. Wonderful video
@Heywood Jablome great
I heard that linseed oil is highly flammable. After the wax is applied over the oiled wood is it no longer flammable?
Wood, Oil and Wax are flammable. Keep the wood (with or without finish) away from open flames ;-)
Probably too old to expect a response but im doing a larger piece of wood and when you are applying the BLO with the fine sand paper, can you do that with any sort of machine? Im looking to apply this type of finish to a large dining table and a pair of end tables. Doing the large table like you did just this small piece looks like it would be insanely exhausting LOL... Thanks for the video.
I never used a machine for this but I think it might be too aggressive and messy.
Thanks a lot, very helpful information, can you please tell if raw linseed oil or cold pressed linseed oil can be used on wood. Many thanks
You can but I would not recommend it because it takes very long to cure (up to weeks) and might stay sticky if it's not cleaned from mucilage to make it suitable for wood finishing.
A brilliant video once again. Clear and informative.
If you wanted to have a deep shine take the palm of your hand and rub it in not a quick process but the results were pretty Spectacular from my point of view
Absolutely. High quality gunstock finishes are hand-rubbed. Looks like glass and easily repaired if wet.
The oil I have says it may combust and I need to wash the rags how did you dispose of the paper towels
Just lay it out flat to dry before you dispose them.
Hi Fabian. Question from a new subscriber here too. Thanks for this video by the way. I'm finishing an oak table. I bought it intentionally unfinished because I wanted to make it look and feel as natural as possible. I like that it is so light and not yellow-ish as you often see with oak furniture. I tried to apply a water repellant coating, but unfortunately the table feels too rough for me. It makes it a bit uncomfortable. The table has been sanded, but you feel the grain and there are these little 'hairs' and splinters standing up and coming off the wood. What would be a good way of finishing this table, so that it retains as closely as possible its natural light oak color, while being protected, and also being soft to the touch? Sorry for the long question and thank you for your answer.
The first coat of a finish can sometimes raise the grain (the little 'hairs' and splinters standing up). Lightly sand with fine grit sandpaper and repeat the application.
Since most oil finishes tend to yellow over time I guess an oil finish might be the wrong choice for you. A whipe on poly is durable but it can look artificial. And since oak is an open grain wood you might have to think about filling the grain. I am not an expert on finishing other than with oil or shellac so I'm afraid I can't give you any good advice.
Hey there,Gents!
I use for sanding, a angle grinder, speed dial, whit a velcrou sand paper attachment.
I think becouse of the rotative speed, the resoult's are so much bether, becouse i for a harry piece of wood in to a fine work of art.
U could fight the hairy grains by chaising it up- ords, changing the position of rotation.
Wood is a Gift of Good for Humanity, that transforms the Time in to Wondefull abjects whit fyu skilfully hands from...Just a Seed, imagine😲👉🤔w(°ｏ°)w
@@FabiansTinyWorkshop
Would a white wax keep the yellowing toned down?
Or does the wax have any penetrative effect at all, over the Boiled Linseed Oil?
Hi Fabian , i have a small problem with my wardrobe ; i have been absent for many months and when i cameback i have found mold in my wardrobe and i tried many times to clean it but it doesn't work !
So i think that i will use this oil then i will paint it with white lacquer ! so what do you think please ?
Thank you and sorry for my english
I don't think linseed oil will help against mold. On the contrary.
How long before it dries out and needs a new application? It looks great but I am afraid I would have to redo the finish every year.
It does not dry out because it does not stay oily. BLO is a drying oil. It hardens (polymerizes).
Hi, Fabian, can I use this boiled linseed oil technique to protect the interior and exterior of a raised-bed vegetable garden? Will it be a food-safe technique? Thank you so much for the great video. I subscribed.
Boiled linseed oil contains metallic dryers I do not know if it's food safe.
Can the paste wax be used on wood that is for outdoor use? Great video thanks.
I don't know.
woooooooo wow yes i can i see it i see it that is a work of art and that look is warm ,clean, and exciting.
Kia Ora & Good Evening from Auckland, New Zealand …great video bro …
Hi Fabian, I have a live edge dining table. We want to refinish the top. Should I do this process but with Mineral oil? What would you use and would you seal it?
Definitely not mineral oil. Mineral oil is a non drying oil so the surface will stay oily. If you like a natural finish that appears to have no visible finish on the surface I would recommend boiled linseed oil or pure tung oil. Those will pop the grain and those are two oils that will polimarise (cure). If you like to protect the wood from spilled liqueds and/or want a glossy or semie glossy finish a surface finish like dahish oil, polyurethane or laquer will be the finish of choice.
I probably would finish it with danish oil.
@@FabiansTinyWorkshop our table is suar wood and only ever had an oil finish of some sort. I'd like to attach a pic, but don't see where I can add it
Dear Fabian, I love the smell, touch, and feel of un-finished wood. What is a good preservative for indoor furniture that maintains wood's properties as much as possible?
There is no finish that maintains the look and feel of unfinished wood and offers sufficient protection. If you want protection you have to make a compromise. A renaissance wax finish or boiled linseed oil combined with wax might be a good compromise but a spilled glas of red wine for exampe might still stain the wood. The more finish on the wood surface the better the protection. Maybe take some scrap wood and do a test with wax, boiled linseed oil, danish oil (or any other finishing oil) laquer etc.. to find out what might be the best compromise for your project.
Hi Fabian, I’m going to use linseed oil for external hard wood stairs. Can I apply the wax on it? Will it be slippery? What does the wax do?
The wax will make it more shiny and provides a little protection against water but it can also make it more slippery. On outdoor stairs I would not bother with the wax. You decide.
@@FabiansTinyWorkshop thank you Fabian for confirming. I was thinking that.
Can you use the linseed oil over a stain? If so how long does the stain have to dry before applying the linseed?
Over water based stains immediately after it has dried. On oil-based stains only after the oil has fully hardened and even then, there's the possibility the linseed oil will remove some of the color of the stain.
I found that one coat of boiled linseed oil was sufficient. Adding more coats did not seem to achieve anything or improve the appearance. Am I doing something wrong ? I wipe off after 10 minutes and I wait 24 hours between coats .
It depends on how much oil is absorbed by the wood. Sometimes applying only one coat leaves dry spots on the surface. For dense wood, a single application may be sufficient.
Thank you for explaining this. Will this make the wood water-sealed? Or can it be applied over top of a water-sealer? Thanks!
No and no
@@FabiansTinyWorkshop Thank you
is it necessary to sand the wood before applying?
Depends on the condition of the surface. If the wood is rough sawn, I would definitely sand it ;-)
If you have to choose between BLO vs Danish Oil which one you get? which gets more darker?
Danish Oil is harder but BLO get's darker over time.
I just purchased a double boiled linseed oil and the smell is a little too strong for me. Do you have any recommendations on reducing the smell or a natural alternative for DBLO? I purchased it for kitchenware and don’t think I want it on my cutting boards with its current smell.
After it cured completely the smell should disappear. You can by a dedicated food safe finish or use a non drying mineral oil.
Are you using lint free paper towels to apply the linseed oil and the wax?
Standard paper towels. Since I wipe off the excess completely, no lint remains.
Hi Fabian, Quick question for you, Can I apply a coat of Polyurethane over boiled linseed oil? Thx.
Yes you can.
@@FabiansTinyWorkshop oil or water based or any ?
Hallo Fabian, do you think I could use this process on the red oak plywood I am putting on the walls of my house? Or do you think it would be too yellow? What would you recommend? Danke!
Oh sorry but I don't know if you'd like the color. It will definitely get a honey tone over time.
Thanks for sharing. I’ve got a Maple/Walnut shop cabinet and am undecided on how to finish. I’ll have to test some Maple and Walnut with BLO. That said, can you finish over the top so you never have to oil again? Perhaps a sanding sealer and then clear?
If you never what to refresh the finish an oil might not be the way to go. As you said. Use a protective clear coat like for example a polyurethane.
After doing this (I'm using Hickory), can you then do a oil-based Poly top coat finish to protect it? I'm making some shelves that might take abuse.
Yes you can. Just don't use wax.
I also found that a final rub with fine steel wool makes it like velvet
If you put a piece of white paper on the wood and write with pen on paper, will there be oil stains on the paper back? Will linseed oil protect the wood from water stains? (e.g. putting a cold cup and a round water stain appear on wood) Thanks.
This will only happen as long the oil is still liquid. Once the oil is cured (dryed, polymerize) it's hard and not oily anymore. Oils like boiled linseed oil, tung oil, walnut oil will polymerize. Oils like baby oil, mineral oil or olive oil will stray oily thats why you should not use them as a finish. An oil finish does not protect as efficient as a Polyurethane or Lacquer.
Beautiful. What brand of wax did you use? Looks really nice.
www.pnz-shop.de/blog/Antikwachs/b-16/
@@FabiansTinyWorkshop Thank you for the link. Where do you buy it?
@@Gold-oj8do I bought it at a local hardware store here in Germany.
@@Gold-oj8do Any kind renaissance wax will do.
... and what do I do with my bench? Leave big greasy areas. Guess I will have to wipe them away with some turps. Otherwise, it does wonders in bringing out the colour.
Great video Fabian, what’s the name of the wax your using. Cheers
Thank you. It's called PNZ Antikwachs. It's a renaissance wax.
for all the steps are you just using kitchen paper?
Jep, works fine for me.
Thanks Fabian for posting this excellent tutorial.
You're welcome :)
Is it necessary to mix with mineral spirits first? Or thinner?
no
Hello. Can you apply this finish over stained wood? Instead of polyurethane?
Yes you can
i want to paint wax and add linseed oil. How should i do this? And does it matter if i paint or wax first before I add oil?
i also want to sand. Should i sand after i add in the oil?
i have an old table with cracks everywhere
First sanding, than oiling, than waxing.
Follow the sequence of steps as shown in this video
can you apply the BLO when the workpiece is standing and it will cure and give a thick enough coat? or must you apply it one side at a time with it pooling with gravity with the face side up one face at a time?
I have applied it to a pair or bench legs with them standing and I dont know if its enough cured on the wood... I have gave two coats so far.
thanks
It does not matter if the workpiece is standing or not since linseed oil ist not meant to form a thick layer on the surface. It's too soft for that. BLO has to penetrate the wood and the excess needs to be wiped off before it starts to get tacky.
@@FabiansTinyWorkshop thanks whats the maximum amount of coats to add to a wooden workbench and for what reason you would add that amount of coats. thanks
made of pine!
@@ukguitaryogi2888 Two maybe three coats. Just so that the oil will impregnate the wood. The oil will polymerize in the wood and the wood will not be able to absorb any additional coats of oil.
Lovely finish on that piece of timber thank you :)
What paste wax did you use?
Amazing finish x
It's called PNZ Antikwachs.
Would this type of finish be okay for a dining table?
It depends if you are looking for a durable and waterproof finish. Boiled linseed oil will make the wood only somewhat water resistant. So if for example some red wine is spilled. It will still penetrate the wood.
What do you do if you put too much on and there is a buildup and its not being absorbed or drying? Its just stick and collecting dirt. Must you use thinners or something like that?
Whip of the excess before it gets sticky.
If it's already dry you can wet-sand with orange oil or turpentine to remove the residue.
Hey! That looks terrific! I'll have to give that a try. What was that wax brand?
Thank you! It's PNZ Antikwachs, nothing special just a paste wax.
Excellent coverage, will have to try. Like!
Thank you! Glad you like it!
Great job Fabian, Best wishes Harry
Cheers :)