No-Fuss Finishing for Wood.
Вставка
- Опубліковано 23 лип 2024
- More video and exclusive content: / rexkrueger
Get the FREE Tip Sheet: www.rexkrueger.com/articles/2...
Finishing Supplies in This Video (affiliate) || Shellac: amzn.to/2N10o27
Denatured Alcohol: amzn.to/2zYaQyZ
(For thinning Shallac and cleanup.)
Oil-Based Satin Poly: amzn.to/34EDuDw
(I used Varthane in the video, but I usually use Minwax. I don't see a difference between them.)
Mineral Spirits: amzn.to/315soFc
(They call this "odorless," but it's not.)
Boiled Linseed Oil: amzn.to/31f0pTu
Paste Wax: amzn.to/2HSlL1w
Steel Wool (0000/Super-fine): amzn.to/2A0Cf3c
Micro-Fiber Cloths: amzn.to/2HSFxKm
(My favorite for buffing out final finishes and wax)
Foam Brushes: amzn.to/2UCb9Jp
(For poly/linseed oil ONLY. DO NOT USE with Shellac).
Nylon Brush: amzn.to/2zVWgIp
(Not the one I used but looks the same. Rated for all finishes.)
See the Woodwork for Humans Series: • Make a rustic bench wi...
Woodwork for Humans Tool List (Affiliate):
Stanley 12-404 Handplane: amzn.to/2TjW5mo
Honing Guide: amzn.to/2TaJEZM
Green buffing compound: amzn.to/2XuUBE2
Cheap metal/plastic hammer for plane adjusting: amzn.to/2XyE7Ln
Spade Bits: amzn.to/2U5kvML
Metal File: amzn.to/2CM985y (I don't own this one, but it looks good and gets good reviews. DOESN'T NEED A HANDLE)
My favorite file handles: amzn.to/2TPNPpr
Block Plane Iron (if you can't find a used one): amzn.to/2I6V1vh
Vaughn Bear Saw: amzn.to/2WoIzLP
Dewalt Handsaw: amzn.to/2IAHX1Z
Stanley Marking Knife: amzn.to/2Ewrxo3
Mini-Hacksaw: amzn.to/2QlJR85
T-shirts, Hoodies and Plans: www.rexkrueger.com/store
Get my woodturning book: www.rexkrueger.com/book
Follow me on Instagram: @rexkrueger - Навчання та стиль
I love shellac!
Quick tip for steel wool: wrap a strong magnet in the steel wool before use. All the wool dust will stay put.
That one of the best tips ever! Cheers!
genius.
If I bought shellac from Finland, would that be considered Finnish finish?
I'll see myself out.
(Polite applause).
ConflictedSwitch
A Finnish finish is more likely to be beeswax or linseed oil, because shellac beetles need a much warmer climate than they have in Finland.
Hell yes! 'Cause that was FUNNY!
don't leave. try another one.
If someone from Finland empties the can, is it a case of Finnish finished Finnish finish?
this is an old video but my story fits here best.
So I went to carpentry school and finished last summer. Around the middle of the third year some first graders accidentally left those rags in something that could catch on fire. We where doing out doing those monthly work visits and it was out last. So when we came back our teacher said we had a fire. Now the fire was in the glue area, anyone who works with glue knows you have metal clamps. Every single small clamp melted. It melted the glass windows and destroyed our metal everything on the wall. and it destroyed our floor. So when someone says be careful, take it to heart because it will be lethal.
So happy that you noted how careful you need to be with the rags from anything combustible! As for the rest, thanks for the tips!
It’s been my pleasure, brother! I’ve told you on multiple occasions that I’m only doing it so that one day you’ll invite me on your super-yacht when you’re killing it on the DIY network
Could we title this video “Paul Figures It Out”? 🤔
Actually, Paul needs to get on with his own channel. He has a good idea.
Two things that might be worth adding to the conversation; Shellac is really great to work with once you learn to get over its shortcomings, mostly that it dries very quickly, however, it doesn't leave a great finish for things like trim and doors where you really need a long-lasting finish that is cleanable, no matter how long it dries, it will still always dissolve in alcohol, which is a problem for anything that needs to be cleaned or sees heavy use. these days I like combining shellac as a first coat with polyurethane as a top coat. You get the speed of the shellac you also get the durability of the polyurethane and shellac is very compatible with basically any finish. I haven't best much with BLO or wax type finishes, but I hope to get into that a bit more. Most of my experience as a contractor is trim, doors, cabinets, etc. And that kind of finish just isn't really durable enough. Lacquer is great if you got the place to spray it, but most hobbyists certainly don't.
but as part of your cleaning you can hit it with a rag of shellac and ass some more protection.
I have spent an inordinate amount of time researching finishes and I always seem to end up more confused than when I started. But I now feel like I have a much better understanding. This video was tremendously helpful! You have a gift for teaching Rex, thank you!
Totally my pleasure!
I have recently discovered that BLO should be applied with glove for those who are concerned with heavy metal poisoning. It contains heavy metal driers and solvents. I have switched to raw linseed oil as of late, its a little more expensive but is better for your health.
A note to anyone taking Isaiah's advice in switching to raw linseed oil--your dry times will also be longer! You're going to have to give it longer than Rex does in this video to dry up.
Thank you Rex for the informative video. And thank you Paul, for helping Rex figure it out 😉
Congratulations on the 100 video landmark Rex. Thank ≠you≠ so much for all the great videos!
Thank you Rex. That was a very informative and thoroughly enjoyable tutorial. Thankyou so much!
Best video I've ever seen on how to fold a fitted sheet. Thanks!
I like to thin my boiled linseed oil to a 50/50 mixture with turpentine. Takes longer to dry but I love the finish it gives.
Perfect tutorial. Very thorough, yet clear and straightforward.
Rex, thanks for the videos you do. I can't tell you how much I've learned just from watching your content. It's given me a well defined foundation to start practicing things I've never done and reaching outside my comfort zones. I cant even describe how much joinery scared me when I first started learning from your content.
I've watched a few of your videos now and I have to say, you do an excellent job. I have really enjoyed your work. Not only are you an exceptional woodworker, you also do an amazing job at video production. Well done mate!
Great vid', Rex!
I do have a couple minor pointers regarding Linseed Oil, though... Nothing too serious, but for the record, there are some benefits in more than "a single heavy coat and wiping off the excess in ten minutes"...
It's a bit more intensive, but you can greatly increase the benefits of linseed by fully submerging a tool handle in the stuff (use PVC, not a bucket... btw) for about three days... or until the bubbles stop, whatever takes longer.
Here's the thing... In most common applications, from cabinets to piano frames, just coating the wood is generally "good enough" for the job. Certain things like high impact or intensively abused tool handles or threaded wood-works that take a moderate to high amount of "action", you want maximum penetration of the oil for it to work. What linseed does is rather like the resin and hardener in Bond-o. It soaks into the microscopic spaces between wood fibers and traps them in liquid filler that then "Polymerizes" to thicken and harden up into something like a mediocre hard rubber.
It's the exothermic reaction that heats rags up (worries of spontaneous combustion) AND it's why linseed oil causes a rag to dry "stiff" like a brick, even though it's still the same cloth (technically) that you started with... That rubberized filler INSIDE the wood-grains is what give the wood it's maximum payoff for even bothering. SO most of the time, you are correct in use and purpose, even on things like that saw handle, it's not so important to soak in...
Certain aspects, however, like hammers, chisel handles, and mallets or the like where there's either a LOT of friction or a LOT of impact, the wood will become distinctly more durable years down the road after the submersion and soaking...
It's also worth note, somewhere... That over time (yeah, it takes years to notice) Linseed oil WILL darken. Any wood that was coated or soaked in it will eventually turn almost black. It's actually a very VERY dark ruddy brown color, but you'll usually need a spotlight from hell in broad daylight to tell. (lolz)
I was kind of wondering what your thoughts might be on Laquer... whether sprayed on or brushed on, and I know you work 90% with the products mentioned, but you might consider checking out a couple modestly priced (even secondhand) lacquer products and see what you think... ;o)
Thats excelent idea! If I understand it correctly - by submerging it, the oil has significantly more time to penetrate the wood before the polymerization occurs. Is that right?
@@vecernik87 Yeah, you've got it...
There are a few channels on YT (can't recall them all just now) that talk at length about "Threading" wooden dowels like we normally do stock-round steel for bolts and screws... They recommend submersion in mineral oil until the bubbles stop as their first step... AND they suggested 3 days as a "basic start time" for rules of thumb, in case you don't have a water-tight tubing that you can view into easily...
AT any rate, yes... You have the idea. By submerging it completely and leaving it the 3 days or so, the oil can just about completely saturate the wood... Then your polymerization process eventually sets throughout the wood... rendering something akin to modern fiberglass with ancient technology... ;o)
If another finish, like shellac in the vid, is used over it, does it still darken as much over time?
@@stopabusingstatistics6291 As I understand it, eventually. Even without the extra coating, this darkening takes a long time, as in decades to quite reach "near blackness", and it's a pretty good way to tell "real" antique tool handles... and the inexperience of someone who just jams a decent wood handle into a tool and then paints it black. They've obviously never seen the real deal or they'd know paint isn't anything like what linseed does as it ages.
Theoretically, some of the darkening is probably due to oxidation... AND if that's the case, you can make it take even longer to darken with a coat of clear poly or even the shellac like in the vid'... I've never worried about it personally... There is a certain attractiveness to the nature of those nearly blackened old handles and projects, too. You can still see the grain, just like with stain, and without the cost of "real ebony", you've got something almost as dark. ;o)
@@gnarthdarkanen7464 Very interesting, thanks!
Omg this video is the best video I've found about finishing. This will save me so much time! Thank you!
Totally my pleasure!
THIS video (as usual) was informative, useful, entertaining, and excellent. Thank you.
Shellac is a great finish. I made a basement stair rail out of construction lumber and put multiple coats of shellac on it. After paste wax it’s the prettiest 2x3 you’ve ever seen.
THANK YOU SO MUCH. I think this is the only wood finishing video I needed to watch.
Thank you for your videos. I used to think you were long winded. Now I appreciate, and value, your verbalized attention to detail.
What a fantastic basic finishing video! You made something that’s complex and intimidating seem easy and doable. Thank you for this! 👍🏼
Glad it worked for you!
what wax did he use?
but yeah im new to this, and i cant figure out why to not use those three.
Awesome formula for finishing! Thanks for sharing.
Awesome video. I have focused most of my time on trying to actually make the thing, and not so much on how to finish it. Thanks for a nice simple breakdown on some great options. Will be giving it a go soon.
It's easy to get focused on the building and give little thought to the finish. I've done it.
Very well explained and information. I'm just starting out with woodworking and this video really helps. Thanks.
I needed this, thanks. Buuuuuut i would love the same video but focused on exterior finishes! Please
Oh, that's easy; paint it. Video over!
@@RexKrueger boooooo.
Booooooooooooooo
If you dont want to paint. Mix equal parts linseed oil and pine tar. Heat up carefully or dilute with turpentine. Protects the wood but is sligthly "tacky" to the touch and of course is dark brown. Think viking ship.
@@borjesvensson8661 thanks for the tip
Congratulations on the 100th video 👊😎🤙🍻
4:15
Learning new stuff everyday.
You saved my house. Thanks!
My brother, in high school, was finishing a wood project outside with linseed oil and got some on his clothes. Went to bedroom, changed clothes so we could go out somewhere, and left clothes on his bed. We came back later to find fire department had dragged his burning mattress into the yard. Lucky didn’t burn down house.
Love that tool box. Right to the top of my to do list. Thanks
Excellent video and advice! What stood out for me were the wonderful finished pieces , and the commonsense advice around the coating-product layout and steps. From laying protective sheets down, thinking about possible dust in the surrounds and adjusting the piece as the painting was done. Four coats. Three finishing products discussed. Thank you.
Lest we forget food grade mineral oil for wood projects that will handle food (like a cutting board I'm working on)
I do use that a lot for turning.
@@RexKrueger a rolling pin perhaps?
What might be considered a decorative bowl as a gift might later be used to store food. Mineral oil would be much better than boiled linseed oil, top with beeswax instead of past wax.
Hi Rex. Another great video, very clearly explained and much appreciated. Thank you.
So many great woodworking videos out there! But dude, I think yours edge out all the rest to be the best!
Boiled linseed oil doesn’t dry; it oxidises. The rags you’ve left out overnight (spread flat, obviously, to keep it cool as it reacts) become oilcloth.
Teak oil dries hard quickly and leaves a lovely finish.
@@alangknowles How does teak oil compare to tung oil? Have you used tung oil, too? You have made me very curious about teak oil.
I love the way you simplify things!👍👍👍😎🇨🇱
Thank you!
Good point: Your hand is a better judge than your eyes of whether something is sanded well or not.
I too love using shellac. I very often use it as an undercoat on s/p/f as somewhat of a filler before applying the topcoat finish. I do use rattle can nitrocellulose when touching up older solid body guitars. Mostly it's shellac of various hues or violin varnish.
Greetings from No. VT - David, I agree that shellac is a super undercoat regardless of what your final finish ends up being. Its a natural product that bonds with virtually any wood to form a consistent and uniform base.
Greetings from No. VT - Rex, I totally agree with your choices of basic finishes and the types of uses for each. The boiled linseed oil in particular is really incredibly versatile. As you pointed out in the video you can also thin it down with alcohol (or turpentine or mineral spirits) if you need as little more penetration and less visibility. The one other option that is similar to linseed, but slightly more durable is to use in applications which get a lot of handling, is a Danish oil which can be pigmented a little better than linseed oil. I now use Danish oil on tool handles quite a bit (rather than linseed) and am not seeing as much discoloration with oils and grime from my hand over time. Another benefit I noticed is it cleans up from dirt and grime just a little better than what I saw with linseed oil. Just something to consider for particularly high touch (like tool handles) situations.
Thank you for mentioning the exothermic property of linseed oil! I see so many people recommend it for other uses (e.g. minipainting) and they never mention it!
Another pretty quick and VERY durable finish I have used is either paste wax on it's own or a first pass of urethane that gets wiped down so it's just a bit of a sealer and then wax over that. In both cases I put the wax on heavy and then hit it with a heat gun or hair dryer to liquify the wax and the wood just soaks it up. Anywhere that looks "dry" I had some more wax. Once it doesn't really want to soak any more up I wipe it down. You end up with a soft luster surface that is waterproof, no water rings etc.
This was very enlightening. Thank you!
Thanks Rex! I will have to start using that poly thining concept in my finishing as well. Looks like a great idea! :)
Thanks very much!
Thanks for this! For pine, I've generally used beeswax and olive oil mix (20-25% beeswax to 75-80% oil), but it needs heating up, and a long while (days maybe) before it's properly dry and hard. Haven;t tried with linseed oil before, so that'll be a test for my next project!
Excellent video and process. Thank you for sharing. I have been experimenting with finishes and I agree with you. I am using BLO as my quick go to finish for tools, camp projects for the children, and restoring working tool handles. I am improving my French Polishing application. Highline Guitars, Brad Grove, and many of the guitar builder on UA-cam variations of the Poly+BLO+Mineral Spirits that I tried and adjusted to what works for me on guitar finishes. I just want to thank you for all your advise and suggestions. Your are a great inspiration. Keep up the excellent work.
You're very welcome!
Good video. A couple of minor points, though:
It’s not exactly right to say oil finishes have “no drying time.” I get your point, which is that you can handle the piece much sooner after applying the oil than you could with, say, most varnishes. But what oil does over time is form a polymer (a sort of plastic) on the wood fibers that protects them. This isn’t really drying; it’s curing, but it does take time (days) for the full process. The reason linseed oil is applied in “boiled” form (these days, generally achieved not by cooking but by adding chemicals) is that it speeds up the curing time significantly.
It’s also inaccurate that linseed oil “literally hydrates” wood. Hydration refers to water content, and water is what wood loses when it becomes dry, twisted, checked, etc. Oil is, of course, not water. It can replace water in the wood fibers, but this replacement usually doesn’t penetrate the wood very deeply (which the original moisture did).
Great video and sound advice. I'd add that oil based poly will yellow over time and also add dewaxed shellac is better for seal coats under finishes.
I like wipe on polyurethane an also Tung oil too. My favorite finishing is all the Minwax products. Thanks for the knowledge Rex !!!!!!
second that on the wipe on poly, works well. Also for pine if you wet it and then sand the fuzzies , you will not have to worry as much on the fuzzies after the poly is applied.
Thanks for the tip Sir !!!!!!!
I've seen tests that say there are better brands than Minwax. I use Minwax and always get good results.
Thanks, for your time and your information.
So simple and practical. Thank you!
Great information! Thanks for posting this.
I did not know, that I know more than I thought I knew, now I know.
Thanks for that, and the great videos.
Thanks Rex, great advices there !
I learnt so much from your video
I like my water based matte poly for my projects. One heavy first coat, 220 light sanding, 2 more light coats and sand if needed. It doesnt smell, held up to abuse on our coffee table that is used everyday, you can use a foam brush, and personally i don't like the yellow/amber tint. I even shake the can to mix it, which people say don't do. With finishing i find its about paying attention to small details, but some people can be overly insane about it or be snobs. Sometimes, one quick rubbing session with wax is all that i need.
Often, a quick rubbing session is just what I need.
Here in Scotland we call anything that’s pale in colour “peely wally “ where Wally rhymes with alley. It’s perfect for unfinished wood!
Best explanation ever. Thanks a lot!!
My pleasure!
An East German painter I worked for used shellac cut with 1/3rd denatured alcohol over oil based varnish stain for trim work.
Another great finish - French polish - combines shellac and boiled linseed oil, about 50/50. Wipe on with a cloth pad, let dry and use 0000 steel wool; and then repeat until satisfied with depth of finish. For extra fine finish, after 0000 steel wool, rub with a pad dipped in a mixture of BLO and pumice. All this is easy, drip proof, rather quick and gives a great finish.
I've never once seen French polishing done this way but it sounds interesting.
This is hilarious. The guy does a video about quick, easy, simple wood finishes, and you're like:
"Great video! You know ANOTHER finish you can do is...." (proceeds to describe 2 different kinds of highly involved, complicated finishes full of complex steps and hard to find ingredients!
Lol
Good job rex, we love you!
And i love you all right back!
"I'm kinda quick when I finish"
You may want to change the wording on that XD
Eh, I'm married.
@Factual Fox I think his reply could still apply. ;)
Awesome Rex
In case you didn’t know you can thin the poly 50/50 and use it as a wipe on poly. It's a lot more forgiving than brushing it on but you also have to put more on to get the same results. Another option that I like is to start with full strength poly, sand it, then thin it progressively for the next coats. It lets you get the 1 raised grain coat out of the way and as you thin it you don't have to worry about runs as much
Thanks for the tip! I’ll make sure to take some thinned poly with me the next time I hit up the local taco shack. I’m always worried about the runs there.
Excellent usage of a Tolenti gelato container!
The only thing better is it's original contents!
If you have a local household hazardous waste facility, they may have finishing supplies available for free/cheap at a reuse center.
Great video. Suggestions to consider for the future, perhaps? Making a using a strop. Choosing and using chisels (bevel and mortice). Keep up the work :-)
2:00
A beautiful bowl to use for shaving soap.
This helped me decide...thanks
My go to finish for anything that stays indoors is a good quality Danish oil. I've heard some Americans complain that Danish oil isn't hard wearing, but I think either they've used a poor quality oil, or maybe the Danish oil you get in the US is a different formula to what we get here in UK (Rustin's here is by far the best). I damp the surface with a moist cloth, allow it to dry to raise the grain. Sand with 120 grit, then apply first oil coat with a fine sponge. 4-6 hours to dry, sand with 120 again, then second slightly heavier coat. 8 - 10 hours or overnight to dry. Sand with 240 grit, wipe over carefully with a tack cloth (important) before applying a third coat. Next day usually all I need to do is scrub over the surface with a screwed up brown paper bag which knocks off any fine dust particles that might have settled on the surface. The result is a smooth satin finish that is surprisingly hard wearing.
Love Shellac! Good stuff!
Me too!
Greetings from No. VT - My late dad was a wood worker/furniture refinisher for 40+ years and swore by it. I am coming up on 40+ years in wood myself but find that now I use it somewhat less than he did in his day because the range of options for finishes is so wide now that I can tailor the finish to the setting a little more exactly; but shellac is still the old reliable standby!
You should have a real TV show. Really enjoy your channel!
also easy is the danish (?) method of applying shellack for a very nice hard and shiny finish, dilute it and then apply very lightly multiple times with a buffing cloth
I need to try that.
Thank you, this was very informative
I always use laquer. Its so easy to use and dries quick. Just sand the very first coat and its smooth. Then the more coats you put on the glassier it gets, each layer melts into the previous. Smell is really srtrong tho so do it out in the garage...i have never had luck with poly it never brushes as nicely and flat. Laquer is self settling and doesnt bubble as easily.
Another easy, cheap, and often overlooked finish is paint. Paint seems to be fairly unpopular with amateur woodworkers, maybe because we like to show off the wood grain, but paint is as old and as commonly used as just about any other wood finish. It’s easy to apply, dries quickly (for most kinds of paint), looks good, and it can cover a lot of flaws in the wood and mistakes by the woodworker.
Can't argue with much of this. Also, not mentioned but worth discussing is brush technique, which is perfectly illustrated from 10:23 - the brush should be laid on away from the edge and come off the other side, then do the same in the opposite direction, to avoid squeezing out excess and causing runs on the edges. My only argument would be on brush choice. For applying shellac, I strongly recommend spending the money on a dedicated squirrel mop which can be drawn to a point and set aside after use. Any shellac which hardens the bristles is softened by the spirit in the shellac the next time you're applying finish. For larger surfaces, make a rubber from cotton cloth and wadding, and store it in an airtight container between uses.
Hi Rex
I know this video is two years old but I have a few thoughts.
One thing I would recommend is good ventilation, especially with shellac ( ewww, bug doo), since it is cut with ETOH the fumes can be a little strong.
Since I live in an area where there are some sawmills I usually buy green lumber and let it set for a few years ( i have stacks that are literally 12 to 15 years old!) Knots in air dried wood never really seem to "dry" so I always use shellac under an either urethane or painted finish or after awhile the knots will "bleed through"
when I use urethane on a panel I also try to make sure it is horizontal. I don't have good tempature control in my shop so drying times will vary, I take some panels that i made, or either plywood or hardboard, and support them, usually with 2 X 4s so there are an inch or two above the project and cover the project completely. These act as a dust shields so if it takes a day or two to dry the debris isn't too bad
Another viewer asked about lacquer . I have used before, dries quickly, best if sprayed but respirator and ventilation ae a must!
One of my favorite finishes, especially hardwood but not pine, is a natural colored oil with a combination bees wax/carnuba wax on top
I don't use much stain at all, but perhaps I could persuade you to make a video on how to finish pine without splotching
thanks!!
Good guy Paul.
Shellac out of the can is about a 3 lb cut (3 lbs of shellac solids to 1 gallon of denatured alcohol). A great way to make it really easy to use is to mix it out of the can with equal parts denatured alcohol. Dries in about 15 minutes & ready for another coat. The reason oil based poly works better when thinned is because manufacturers are using less mineral spirits to meet the low Volatile Organic Compound statutes on tbe books. You're returning it to older formula adding thinner and it really improves the flow of the product.
Thanks Paul! Oh and you too Rex.
Ha!
This is my time, Rex!!!
I'd love to see your take on french polish
I use my old gelato containers for mixing finish too.
I've already got about a million of them.
“I do all my finishing in the kitchen - when my wife is out at the store and I pack everything away before she gets back”
Wife: Rex, what’s that smell in the kitchen and why are the windows open? Have you been doing woodwork in the kitchen again?!
Rex: 🤫 No ?
Actually, she comes in a says: "Hmm, smells like money."
I thought this comment was going in another direction 😂
Super informative, thank you very much
My pleasure!
One of the best videos on finishing on the Tube. There is so much hype about whatever is the latest craze in yet another combination of something or other. No one seems to know what they are reviewing, just spew out a couple of good sounding marketing jingos and everyone wants to buy this snake oil they hope. I have spent over 200 bucks in the last couple of months trying out various finishes. I would probably add General Finishes Arm-R-Seal and one of the Hard Wax Oils for ease of application and durability. To me, shellac is somewhat finicky compared to Arm-R-Seal and I just like the feel afterwards. I have some Osmo Polyx coming next week so I will see how that does. However all of the oil based Poly's take forever to dry and have really high VOCs. Nice video, Thanks!!
linseed oill beneath orange shellac is one of my favorites
I find that I have to let the oil really harden for a few days before applying the shellac.
I also find that I have to thin the shellac. It's too thick directly from the can.
Orange shellac is much more difficult to apply nicely than clear shellac
The most convenient thing in my shop is to have the grill nearby, the shop towels soaked in BLO end up being burnt right after I finish using them
Greetings from No. VT - Similar comment - I have a wood stove in my shop, so when I finish with a rag that has a flammable substance, I throw it in the stove. In the winter it is in use and the materials burn off, but in warmer weather it insures that if it does spontaneously combust it does so in a safe location. Every once in a while in warmer weather I will toss a match in and burn off any flammables (which includes paper towels) which can also combust like a rag.
Hey Rex, new to the channel and loving it! Planning my first project as I watch this series!
Question on this video: What is the purpose of the wax coat at the end of each finish? I feel you explained the 3 finishes very well, but I didn't understand if/why it needed the additional wax coat at the end?
Thanks in advance!
The wax helps lubricate the steel wool for the final polish. It also adds another layer of protection.
You (or me i guess) deserve the Bell icon
Straight to the point explanation, followed by convincing practical demonstration. Rex is a craftsman and skilled educator. I learned a lot.
thank you!
Okay, so ONE thing I wanted to use with woodworking can start fires, that is good to know.
Thank you.
No trouble!
but wood is flammable.
Would BLO with with an epoxy, say, for a live edge table?
Also for those who don't thin out their polyurethane, do not play with it too long because you'll introduce streaks into the finish that you'll have to sand out.
Thanks for delving into the topic. You did a nice job keeping a topic which has more options about it, fairly simple.
"hey kids you wanna try some linseed oil?"
BLO challenge FTW!
BLO is great, and dries enough to not be tacky quickly. It doesn't care in that time, though, and won't really provide nearly as much protection before it's fully cured.
I use melted beeswax. Put the work piece into the oven on warm for ten minutes before hand so the wax stays melted long enough to absorb. Once all the wood is coated put it back in the oven for 5 minutes, take it out and quickly wipe away all the excess beeswax before it solidifies other wise it hard to wipe off. Then when cool it can be buffed to a gemstone like shine. Paste wax every year or so as the wax is slowly fading will keep it looking nice
The painter I worked for would use a screen funnel for the poly and thin just the 1st coat of poly.
dust is the reason why old timey japanese craftsmen would sometimes finished their products on a boat, far away from any plants spreading pollen and other pollutants in the air.
my father on the other hand just simply doesn't do anything dusty when he's finishing.
Really excellent video! Many Thanks! What type of finish would you use for woodworking workbench tops?
@Rex Have you tried a combination of boiled linseed oil and melted beeswax? It seems pretty simple as well, and I've seen it used for tool handles.
Yo, how come no respectable woodworking UA-camr has ever spoken about keyhole saws? Cause you're the first. I've never seen anyone use them, or recommend them, or even acknowledge their existence. I use them pretty often. Do they just suck and no one told me?
I think it's that back in the day, food was more valuable and more likely to get stolen, so many cabinets were make with locks to keep sticky fingers away from the grub. These days, we rarely put locks on cabinets.