- We appreciate your Support and Purchases! Intake Manifold for VW/Audi CCTA/CBFA - Genuine VW/Audi www.shopdap.com/vw-2-0-t-intake-manifold-06j133201bd.html Intake Manifold for VW/Audi CCTA/CBFA - Vaico www.shopdap.com/06j133201bhvco-intake-manifold-for-2-0t-tsi.html Intake Manifold for Audi CAEB (Longitudinal) Engines www.shopdap.com/06h-133-201-at-vw-audi.html Intake Manifold Install Kit www.shopdap.com/intake-manifold-install-kit-for-2-0t-tsi-06j198201bhgrp.html Fuel Injector Seal Install Tool www.shopdap.com/wkz-t10133c.html This also would be the same procedure when replacing this 2.0T TSI Fuel Injector www.shopdap.com/vw-audi-20t-tsi-fuel-injector-06h906036ab-bosch.html
After doing this job (in preparation for decarbing the valves on a 2010 GTI) the car started throwing codes all over the place. I'm getting a P2008, a P2008 P, a P0341 P, and both the EPC dash light and the Oil Pressure warning that keep flashing on and off above 2,500 RPM. Driveability issues are present. Can't rev the engine up too much or it starts to hesitate. I removed all kinds of sensors (that perhaps shouldn't have been removed), such as the camshaft sensor and the air charge temp sensor. What is the likelihood I may have damaged them while cleaning them (if they even need cleaning)?
I just did the this job, took me about 4 hrs to do it, thanks a lot you help me and save $1000. It's what the dealer wants to do the same job, very helpful 👌
Yeah wish me luck I got to do it just for a damn regulator pressure sensor #2 that's under the manifold, fuel lines, hoses, etc. The only direct way to get to it is with a deep socket 27 mm wrench. But the oil dipsticks in the way. So then I get that out of the way and then the sockets too thick to fit in between the gap of the manifold 🤦🏾♂️....... They got to have a Gumby twisty elbow flexy type wrench to use for this..... Oh yes of course they do but none come in 27 mm
@@BirdFromYakiVegas lmao me today in my mk5 gti, that middle bracket omg, got to go back to it tomorrow spend hours toddy messing with they one bracket
Im trying to muster up the courage to do this. I cant afford to pay to get it done, plus i dont hve the extra money to do the carbon clean, which should be included in the repair price more affordably since the major work is taking this off
@@zachariahmetoyer6425 I just did it in a 6 or so hour time span , tricky bolts to get at but it’s off and can see the dirty carbon build up on the valves , it’s worth it if you got the time !!
⚠️ WARNING ⚠️ This is MUCH, much more difficult than our friendly seasoned veteran VW Master mechanic makes it look, especially if your EA888 is in a Golf R, and ESPECIALLY if that Golf R is RHD. The engine an accessory positions are similar to what’s shown in the video, but NOT the same, and often MUCH more involved to remove. (The throttle body absolutely 100% needs to be removed on a RHD Mk6 Golf R for example, and other parts need to be removed to get to the throttle body bolts. Expect to spend upward of half a day just to remove the intake manifold, and possibly multiple days removing it multiple times for fuel injector leaks. You can do it, but come in prepared to spend a considerable amount of time and effort, and needing many more tools than mentioned here. This great video (I mean that sincerely, thank you Charles) is just a general baseline for what you’ll have to do to get it done right. Good luck!
Just finished doing this job. Much more difficult and involved than expected. Took me a whole day of working on it to do it. It’s doable but it requires back support and good talking buddies.
I had to take off the manifold in order to reach the water pump. I found that it's a lot easier if you remove the throttle body. Taking off the throttle body allows easy access to that brace, which requires the triple square to remove. In the video, he doesn't remove it due to his experience, but it helps a lot.
@michaelw6277 is it at all possible to remove it by just removing the top 13 and then rotating the brace to the side or something or is it absolutely a must to remove that triple square
I have found that removing the brace is much easier if you remove the intake hose upstream of throttle body and then detach the two plastic coolant lines and unscrew the two T30s attaching it to the manifold. By doing this, you have a lot of space to see the 13mm nut and the TS10 bolts. Use a 3" extension on your TS10 and viola!
Performed this job as a non-mechanic expert on 2011 GTI. Here are notes that I hope might be helpful for others. OBDII error codes: p0301, p0300, p2293. My unique problem and the solution: Driving down freeway, lost power and had check engine light come on, car sputtered home. Checked out fuel pressure test kit at Autozone, which confirmed no fuel pressure into high pressure fuel pump, and changing out the low pressure fuel pump solved the fuel pressure problem and the p2293 error, but the misfires, smoke rings, and rough idle were still present. I believe my fuel pressure sensor was broken, and ran out of gas. Running out of gas, took air and particulate through the fuel system and messed up my fuel injectors, which I replaced thanks to this video after taking off the manifold and cleaning out the carbon. This removed the p0301 and p0300 errors and now my car runs better than before the problem! Notes on intake manifold removal: -Beforehand, I read through all the comments in this video and watched this video and How to Automotive's video: ua-cam.com/video/d6jkEyncdCA/v-deo.html multiple times. -An additional tool needed that is not mentioned at 0:30 is a 1/4 inch extension, which is necessary for removing the 2 t30 screws underneath the manifold (the 3/8 inch extension you might have for changing your spark plugs will not work for this purpose, as the diameter of the holes in the intake manifold is less than 3/8"). Charles says the long extension is for saving your back, but beyond that, it's actually necessary to complete this job. -Differing from Charles' advice at 9:25. I was able to disconnect the intake pipe by only taking off one t30 screw off the hard plastic pipe (I didn't see a second t30 screw), and the electrical cable had enough slack, so I didn't disconnect it. -I've had 3 manifold replacements, and on one of the replacements, a mechanic decided not to replace the hard-to-remove bracket referenced in the video, so I don't have any tips for this, except that the part number is 06H-129-723-K if you need to get one. -In contrast to Charles, I did not loosen the hard fuel line where it connects up to the intake manifold. It was too hard to get at, and it was unnecessary to do so. -The black plastic bracket which holds the wires that plug into the fuel injectors was attached to my intake manifold with a plastic expanding retainer clip. Before removing the manifold completely, I first disconnected this clip with needle nose pliers, but didn't end up reconnecting it, as it didn't seem necessary to do so. Notes on fuel injectors: -One of my fuel injectors was incredibly stuck and would not come out. I tried spraying WD-40 around the injector and letting it sit over night, but that didn't seem to help much. I tried using pliers to turn CW and CCW and wiggle back and forth, but that didn't work either and I eventually cracked the plastic doing that. What finally worked was grabbing the injector and rather than trying to pull it, just sitting back with my whole weight for a while, which eventually brought it to slowly slide out. Notes on carbon cleaning: -After nine years of driving, my carbon build up was very thick. -I do not have a blaster tool, so I did almost all of the carbon cleaning by hand. It took 2 cans of Autozone's carb cleaner, paper towels, and a pick, plus many hours and some elbow grease. I sprayed the carb cleaner on the valves, then crammed the paper towel into the valve, and pushed it around and retrieved it with the pick. I considered, but did not end up opening and closing the valves by turning the engine crankshaft pulley with a 24 mm socket (as I didn't have one), but the end result was still very clean valves. Connector/hose checklist: -I don't know the names/functions of all the connectors and hoses, but I wanted to keep a count of disconnected ones, and count down from these numbers as I plugged them in. Here is the count for my job: *10 connectors sitting directly under the manifold to replug: 6 on the fuel injector bracket (4 of which connect to the fuel injectors), then another 4 on another wire (3 of which are colored purple and orange). Since I didn't have the bracket, I didn't disconnect the coolant temperature sensor at 24:20, but that would make an 11th connector. *1 connector off to the right of the manifold near the vacuum hose (also, if you did as Charles and removed the plastic intake pipe connector at 9:25, you'll have 2 here) *So in sum, anywhere from 11-13 connectors to replug, depending on how you do the job. *I also counted 3 main hoses to replug, the small vacuum hose beginning at the right of the engine and plugging into the bottom right side of the manifold (no clamp), another one starting near the coolant tank and plugging in near the left front side of the manifold, and another one beginning from between the first two coils. Then, there's the 4th hose that you completely detach that connects from the PCV valve to the intake manifold. Intake manifold reassembly: -I removed the orange manifold gasket and rubbed dielectric grease over every part of it to minimize degradation to gasket and ensure an air-tight seal. I also very lightly greased the fuel injector seals and the place where they plug into the manifold. -I used a torque wrench to tighten the main nuts holding the manifold in place to 10 Nm (which I found somewhere online, and which was actually not as tight as I thought it would be). -There are two nuts to tighten when reconnecting the hard fuel line to the high pressure pump, a bottom one which is silver and tightens the compression fitting, and a top one which is gold and attached to the hpfp. I tightened only the bottom one, which caused a fuel leak. Tighten both (the top one first), to avoid this situation. -I was able to complete the whole job without getting underneath the car or disconnecting the throttle body (however, if you have the infamous bracket, you might need/want to.) Thank you Charles (HumbleMechanic) and Deutsche Auto Parts!
Worst part about this job is that bracket for the manifold. Taking the throttle body off seems necessary, but getting those screws back in for the throttle body is no easy task either. This is the second time I've used this video and it makes the job sooo much easier. Thank you for this.
Though it's a 6 year old video it's still helping me big time. I watched this vid in 2x speed twice. After getting everything off, I watched it again in normal speed. Thanks for the step by step on this! Few notes for people like myself working on a now older, typically higher mileage MK6: 1. Do the intake carbon cleaning. Mine was so caked with crud that stalagmites were being formed off the top of the valve. Scary to think I'm Stage 1+ tune and have these overhanging maintenance problems that the PO did not take care of. 2. When doing the intake cleaning you have 2 options: chemicals or walnut blasting. A walnut blasting setup is minimum $300 (compressor, hoses, media, and a small hopper gun). 3. I did the chemical route. Its COVID 19 quarantine season right now so I have plenty of time. What I discovered was: Start with manually scraping with a pick. Followed by CRC Valve Cleaning aerosol spray. From there, use B12 aerosol spray. Then, finish it with CLR (yea that cheap bottled stuff). CLR is the secret here..it brings the valves back down to clean metal. Use a pick and paper towels (rip them into 2"x2" pieces and use the pick to push them around). 4. Follow with vacuuming/compressed air spraying. Side notes: 1. you can open and close the valves by hand by spinning the belt off the alternator. Gloves help with grip, and avoid pinching your fingers. 2. That triple square #10? I used a #8 Allen, square (not ball end). No stripping.
Did you replace the intake manifold gasket? In all the videos I've seen no one mentions it but I feel like it should be replaced when you remove the intake manifold?
@@Eli9s I replaced the fuel rail and intake to the latest version (I believe its the 4th revision) because my version was failing - which came with fresh gaskets. If you're going to take the time to clean the carbon I would also go to the latest fuel rail and intake assembly. Regardless, I recommend a fresh gasket. Sure, the original is a polymer that will last for years, but it's an inexpensive maintenance item (~$25). Just make sure that the gasket aligns with your specific intake assembly because there are 4 versions with slight differences.
4 Month update: I also upgraded to an oil catch can. A plug-and-play setup is $300+. In my mind, any GDI engine should have a catch can. I went with ECS' one. The quality is good and everything bolted up well. It will help prolong the maintenance interval between carbon cleanings.
@@richiethompson2919 i have the 2014 gen3 GLI and now im scared to order the gasket because this car has a bastard motor and everything seems different on it. Thanks for the advice. Not sure on what version of fuel rail my car has either but considering its the ea888.3 ill probably just leave it be
This was not a fun task but the video was a great resource. I wish it only took four hours. Note to DIYers - take care of the fuel injectors while you have everything apart, and the Check Engine Light came on after I got everything back together but cleared and stayed off after about 50 miles of driving.
I used this video as a primary how-to along with other videos and forum posts for other angles and specifics about the job. I ended up stripping one lower manifold T-30 on re-installation and wanted to post my solution. Rather than uninstalling everything and re-tapping I found a 10mm M6 bolt at the hardware store that was 20mm longer than the factory bolt and needed to add a 1/2" nylon spacer to make it fit correctly into the block. No problems as a result of this rig. I also cleaned the injectors and got all new seals for those - if your valves are all crudded up your injectors will be too. Doing that added 2 hrs to the job including constructing a diy injector cleaning station and figuring out a way to re-seat the high pressure injector seals without special tools (best to buy the tool and re-sell to other vw owners).
Can’t thank you enough. DAP hooked it up, intake and injectors actually showed up in 2 days so I spent the Saturday tearing down and cleaning. Amazing tutorial and it’s not as hard as it seems. But finally fixed my wife CC and it runs better than new. Again much thanks to DAP and Charles for making this happen
I really appreciate you making this video from the perspective of someone without a lift. Very helpful for DIYers. Doing a valve decarb today. Wish me luck!
A few notes from my experience doing the decarb. Just replace it all while you're there - Intake manifold and injector seals. After doing a decarb and putting it all back together, I got a P2015 code for intake manifold performance. The code wasn't there before I started, but came about after reinstallation. I'm redoing the job today to replace this part - $150 shipped on Rock Auto. Other notes: 1) Make sure your T30 is a 1/4 drive, as his is. a 3/8 inch drive will make it hell accessing the lower manifold bolts. 2) Even if you don't have a lift, go ahead and remove the lower shield so you can access things from the bottom, it will make your life easier. You don't need to lift the vehicle. 3) I didn't bother removing the throttle body, because I found accessing the back T30's as hard as removing the 10 triple square on the brace. Accessing the brace is all about patience, finding the right angles. Pull the Main air pipe all the way down underneath the vehicle to give yourself plenty of space. 4) When reinstalling, I started the brace w/ the 13 mm nut and let it hang down. It made it easier to get it in place. 5) Finally, be very careful with the air ducting. The plastic tabs are quite easy to break and the piece will not stay in place without them. I had to order another piece for $20. Good luck!!!
I just want to first thank you sir for this video. I had the P2015 code and decided to do it myself when the dealer said 4200$. Fairly easy job just because everything is on top and easy to access. I work full time so this job took a couple weeks to complete. TAKE YOUR TIME AND BE PATIENT. Watch the video over and over and over until you memorize and it will make the job a lot smoother especially on the reinstall. THAT BRACKET IS A MOFO!!! LOL. Got it off though and it's a lot easier to put back on. I recommend removing the throttle body but those two back screws will tear up some flesh. And I also recommend watching a couple other videos from others who have done this job before just to get some more knowledge and different techniques are used especially with the bracket. This is by far the most difficult job I have ever done but it is doable. Don't be scared. Once again, thank you sir for this video. Now time to go collect my payment from the Mrs. 😜
my dealer charged me $600 to not figure out the issue with my brakes (200) that i needed new coils and plugs because apparently the ones i had in weren't "OEM" enough even though it was the same company that makes the branded oem sparks and coils, that cost another 200. then they said 200 for an issue i told them i figured out myself. A new cabin fan if you were curious. they wouldnt have known about the cabin fan being an issue unless i said "hey i figured it out its the cabin fan at low speeds that makes the noise, so i don't need it diagnosed anymore." oh wait i did say that! Valley Imports in Fargo ND incase you want to know where not to take your vehicle to get serviced.
Really appreciate the video. Replaced my partners inlet manifold for a VW Scirrocco TSI. First ever ‘big’ job I’ve done and the video has been super helpful. We were quoted £1,500 for this fix, so opted to DIY. That bracket was a massive pain and also had to remove the throttle body to access the triple square. I found going next to the alternator to reach the triple square was the easiest route but darn…. that took ages to get to. Car ran real rough as soon as I switched the car back on, but after a reset via VCDS, engine management light came off and is running smoothly. Great videos and thank you again for posting.
@@kylejesson1774damn, I’m based in South London so I guess prices are higher here than most places. Inlet manifold cost me £76 alone on Autodoc I also replaced all injectors which were £85 or so each. Dont even want to know how much VW would want for the OEM parts. Don’t see how anyone can get a 4x hour job done for £100 with/without parts anywhere in the country.
This may be the best auto repair video I’ve ever watch. The meticulous attention to detail and thorough explanation of every single step is superb. Getting the download from a master VW tech is very appreciated
Thank you for this tutorial, it is fantastic. I replaced my 50k miles '09 Passat manifold and also clean/decarb intake valves. Actually cleaning is the most time consuming part of the job, incredible how much carbonization sticks to intake valves. Now P2015 fault has gone. Some tips/comments: 1 - You really need a minimum 8 inch 1/4" extension. 3/8" does not reach lower T30s. 2 - That triple square nut extends the definition of inaccessible. Had to drain and disassemble the coolant line to get access. 3 - Did you say abyss when talking about the bottom of this engine? Perfect definition, have a lot of magnetic pick up tools. 4 - Lots of low pressure and misfire error codes due to empty high pressure fuel line when restarting. Just clear them after some miles. I also got low pressure alarm but noticed the fuel pressure sensor (below cylinder 2 intake) was misconnected. Thanks from Brazil!!
+kirkferentzrocks : I was trying to convert to british units but I really mean 200 mm long 1/4" square socket extension. www.tool-net.co.uk/p-398884/facom-r217-1-4-drive-200mm-extension.html. 3/8" drive sockets will not reach the lower T30 bolts, not enough clearance.
+kirkferentzrocks Look at the bolts he is removing at 14:45, they are difficult to access and my 3/8" drives are too big to fit the clearance. But before buying new tools just try yours, perhaps your tools can reach these bolts.
Just watched your video DAP Thank you for the tutorial if you are watching this and are about to do the labor , make sure you watch this video numerous times , take notes , and start in the morning This is a professional pace, DIYs you might finish in the evening Take your time. Make sure it doesn’t rain and don’t loose any parts. German cars is not the the type to work without the same screws and bolts you started with.
Just wanted to say thank you for publishing such an informative video on the intake removal procedure! I had to do an intake valve cleaning job on my mom’s 2010 Passat recently. I’m a VR6 guy and I had never really worked with the 2.0T engines, so this video was extremely helpful. I did end up taking the throttle body and bracket off though to avoid accidentally yanking those wires from the connector underneath. Used solvent, picks, toothbrush, and the zip tie drill method to remove the carbon deposits. Just took my time with it all and I’m happy to say the operation was successful. And my mom is super happy to have the cold start misfires gone! Thanks guys!!
Great Video! I am a former Mercedes Benz tech and shop owner and I have tremendous respect for you VW techs. I say it to all of the techs when I see them when I go into the VW/Audi dealer for parts. I have a customer with a leaking water pump or so it appears on a 2011 CC. I honestly don't want to do the job. I get beat up enough with Mercedes vehicles. I can't imagine that job being much less than $1,000. If I do it, I would like to address anything else while I am in there.
LOVE this video. Saved me tons and almost impressed my wife with my newly acquired mechanical skills. Did the work on a 2013 Tiguan with 120k miles and everything went freaking awesome, EXCEPT THAT FREAKING BRACKET. That took a few years off my life, I guarantee it. Mind you; I'm 6'1" and 260lbs. so fitting in spaces doesn't go very well with accessing things under the hood. But yeah, eff that bracket. One problem that I'm having now that the job's done; my temperature gauge is now going from bone cold to normal operating temperature within minutes of startup or within one mile traveled. The gauge doesn't go any higher though. The car does not overheat. I took it to the dealer and had them check it out. They cleared all the old codes and such, drove it around and no new codes. Nothing. Nada. But the friggin' temperature gauge still jumps to high noon before I can get my seatbelt on. Help?
Great video. Replaced the manifold and did a carbon clean on my MK5 GTI and it runs like new. Charles and Paul, thanks for the video. I started to make a video of the de-carb but what a nightmare. Do your homework and watch this thing a few times and you shouldn't have a problem. I recommend removing the throttle body to make dealing with the lower bracket easier. I also recommend removing the cool air intake pipe by lifting the car on jack stands and drop it out the bottom. The only thing I had to find elsewhere was how and where to install the new fresh air port on the new manifold design.
Great tutorial! I removed the alternator as well, this helped facilitate the removal and installation of the mounting bracket on a 2010 EOS. I also purchased a grit blaster and cleaned the intake valves with walnut shells while the manifold was removed. At 160 km it was surprising to see the amount of carbon build up.
I had the same problem with my 2010 VW CC, and I haven't done without seeing your video, it helps me a lot and I have a good result since I changed the entire manifold and cleaning injectors and new seals, thanks a million, I couldn't have done without you guys, thanks a lot.
Awesome mechanic. Aaron Kaufman lookalike! Without your video I wouldn’t have been able to do this job on a 2012 Jetta. Thanks for the awesome detail you go into. Regards Greg
Great video. Just finished an intake carbon cleaning on my 2012 Beetle TSI with 100k. Also resealed the injectors, replaced the PCV valve. Was surprised to see the manifold bracket was nowhere to be found; but was a good indicator that the previous owner had the manifold replaced - and maybe a carbon cleaning? I won’t say this job was easy (I’m a relative newbie), but it’s given me the confidence to do just about anything under the hood. Tip for newbies: be sure to check that the high pressure line is seated and snug on both sides. I had a fuel leak - initially I thought it was a bad injector seal - so I took the manifold and injectors off again - only to realize it was the fuel line.
drove my honda accord 09 v6 coupe from 77k to 135 k (until some idiot jumped in front of me)and never ANY issues. drove my 2013 jetta gli from 114k to 124k and already a clutch/intake manifold/HPFP/fuel sensor etc. Never will I purchase another and honestly, I may even skip Audi's but thanks guys, you do an amazing job with your tutorials.
@@deegleedee well, at least it isn't totalled lol. Yeah i went to vw dealer and it cost 1100 to get this part replaced. Ugh. Checked warranty as other have mentioned but it expired at 120k i think for this particular part. Like fucckkk
This video is the intake manifold Bible haha! I'm in the middle of doing this and have followed thIs video step by step. I decided to remove the throttlebody to make it easier to get under the manifold. I discovered my car did not have the wire harness ripping bracket. Hope it's not necessary. I got all the bolts off the manifold but it is being tough. Hope I don't break it lol. I'm can't wait to finally carbon clean! So thank you very much Humble! I love your channel and think you're a great dude! VW 💕
Great Video, not sure that i would have got this done without viewing it. That bracket is so buried that i thought someone had previously not replaced it. I had to remove the throttle body in situ to get access and even then it was restricted.👍
Great video! I had to remove the alternator on my 2009 CC to get at the lower bracket. It would have been nearly impossible to reach otherwise. Thanks for the amazing tutorial. Well done!
Thank you for this video. The dealership described this process to my wife and made it seem like it was incredibly difficult lol. I'm used to working on a LS but this isn't remotely difficult. You don't even want to know what they quoted this at.
I'm so annoyed that I am barely seeing this video. I just recently took out the water pump on my 2014 VW CC w/ 50K miles on it and replaced it with the metal one you guys sell. I left the bracket on the intake manifold this time thinking it wouldn't do anything. Tell me why literally pulled the wired out of the coolant temp sensor from the water pump just like you mentioned in this video 😅. Thats what I get for trying to cut corners and save time and effort. Thank for the videos, though the water pump video you did was not exactly the same as my CC it did help A WHOLE lot. Thanks again.
On my friend's VW 2009 EOS TSI, I needed to remove a short/sideways coolant hose on the midsection of the two plastic vertical coolant pipes, so that I could swing them out of the way. After doing this, I could then remove the hard to get at aluminum support bracket. Thank you so much for providing this essential video!
Thank you for posting this video. I have no idea how much money you saved me but I bet it was a lot more than the money I spent on the manifold. I was able to fix it myself with your video as guidance. I really appreciate it.
Thank you so much for that. Removing your intake manifold and cleaning your valves would likely cost around $500-700 depending on whos doing it. We are so glad we were able to help you save some money.
@@Deutscheautoparts Volkswagen Billings charged almost 1200 dollars for a "fuel induction service" on the last guy who owned my car. Not sure if that was strictly intake cleaning or what but my god this video is gonna save me from so much financial pain.
Thank you so much for your time and knowledge. Just did a intake manifold replacement on a 2010 va cc. I did things a little differently removing that bracket from the toddle body without a lift but thanks to your video I knew the part to look out for. FYI ...the toddle body bracket was removed from the top with out a lift from the top. Used a t30 along with a swivel and extension. Also a magnet is a great tool .thanks again you were a big help
Watching this makes me appreciate my LS motor so much more. I have to do this on my wife's car and hate it anytime I have to work on it. It always takes 4 times as long to don anything :(
I was on 3rd, yes 3rd intake manifold (yeah, tell me about that GREAT German engineering) when I decided to save myself 800 bucks and do it myself. I started doing some preplanning for the work when I decided to look a look at that dreaded lower bracket. Apparently my VW dealer felt it was unnecessary and left it off during the last installation. I studied this vid carefully and was able to do the job in about 3 hours. Even though I have a spare lower bracket laying around , I didn't install it either. Its not that bad of a job if you just take your time and VERY carefully tighten the manifold bolts (first tighten to 3 NM and then tighten to 9NM - per VW Factory repair manual) Good luck all!
@@mattvisk mostly getting access to the bolt by disconnecting some coolant hoses and the valve body was key for me, i have big hands. And dismounting the alternator didnt seem like the right bag of worms to open.
Haha I ripped my cts wires right off but found a connector at junkyard.but what's important is your video showed me where to splice yellow wire to!!!! THANK YOU!!!!
Well,I had to go through a few of the manifold removal.It wasn't something that was highlighted but more something I watched for and saw as he ( technician) was going through the steps.....I'm so sorry....but if I'm correct I think it was yellow wire on left.dont trust that though.
Thanks for the videos man. Very well made and articulated. I had two intake runner codes on mine that popped up about two months after I bought it. it was a little frustrating. I bought the ECS repair part and crossed my fingers. Didn't work. So then I bought a new Runner sensor and saw that the whole thing had to come out... so I loosened everything up just enough to access it behind the oil filter housing and put it back together. Oddly enough one of the runner error codes went away and the other one came back so I bought a whole new intake manifold and just finished the job. Referenced your video a few times! 👍🙂
A BIG thanks from Brazil, because of that vídeo i could do the job on my B7 2.0 Tsi Passat. You have now a follower from Rio de Janeiro. THANKS A LOT!!
I can't thank you enough for this tutorial, my CC has been in so many garages & cost me so much money chasing diagnosis & all along it was the dreaded carbon buildup. Cleaned it all today & now she's running like a new car. Thank you!!!!!!
This video has saved me so much hassle and money but what a pain in the arse job to do. Mk6 gti left me at work 2 days ago smoke everywhere, misfiring I thought it blew up. Injectors only I had to do, on the side of the street, tho it would of really helped if you had the support Bracket removal as that is a migraine. Thanks again and great vid as it saved me a week's wait.
Massive thank you for this video, helped me make sure I had all the right tools before I started! I was fortunate that my 2010 Skoda Octavia vRs didn't have the bracket.
i had to replace replace a fuel injector and said heck lets just change them all got them at shopdap and the price was one of the best thabk you guys while i was there i decided to clean the intakes (really time comsuming) a challenging diy all and all thanks for the tutorial it help me a lot
I had to remove the intake to replace the water pump on my Tiguan. The video was very helpful and like others the hardest part was removing the bracket that holsd the TB to the engine block. I suppose that this is needed to help support the TB in order to not put all the weight on the intake bolts and stress them due to vibration. I found that getting the bolt back in was the hardest part. I completely removed the boost pipe as I was able to get under the car since it is a Tiguan. Also, removing bracket nut on the TB was easier to get underneath the car. I could not find a 1/4" drive 10mm triple square anywhere, only a 3/8". It is probably easier to get to the lower bracket bolt with a 1/4 drive and extension. The problem is the solid coolant pipes that run right in front of the triple square bolt which basically gives you no room to work. When I have to remove the intake again to do the carbon cleaning I might try and remove the solid coolant pipe to give me more room. I did clean the intake partitions since they were easy to remove and it seems that these were worse than the valves themselves at 78K miles. It really is a stupid design engineering wise as the could have accomplished supporting the TB much more easily.
Thanks for the video. I'm a decent home wrench, but this took me far longer than the 4 hours suggested. A couple points: I had to remove the throttle body to get access and see the connections under the manifold. The triple square was very difficult. I finally succeeded with a short bit on a stubby ratchet with a folding handle. For the carbon, I picked it first, let the CRC soak overnight, which removed much of the gunk. The zip tie method didn't work for me as I couldn't keep the zipties in the chuck. I used small sections of red scotchbrite held with a long set of forceps to scrub the intake portion of the head and the front of the valve. Preinstall and then remove the throttle body screws to cut the threads prior to putting the intake on - this allows easier screw insertion later. Make sure the connector adjacent to the oil filter is connected before you place the intake into position - I had to redo the installation process. Have fun and savor beating the $1k labor bill.
Thank you guys, looks pretty straight forward. taking the GTi to the dealer on Monday for the extended warranty on the manifold for CEL. Watched it just incase they do not want to change it because of the oil catch can.
I have this done twice already. Once for the recall and wanted 500 to clean carbon. I said no. Then hit 80000 and got cold start codes and dealer wanted 1600 dollars. Said no and drove to independent and got decarb done for 490. I like you as a mechanic but I sometimes wonder where they come up with these numbers. 1600 dollars is a mortgage payment and then some. I was told that it was a ten eleven hour job. The independent had it off and decarb in four hours. Car runs great again shifts smoother better gas mileage. The key was over 1000 dollars cheaper.
Well, I have done this job several times and because of that experience, I can now replace the manifold in less than 90 minutes. But that's irrelevant! Speed does not make a mechanic any better than another who is detail oriented because he does a QUALITY job! Sure it may save you money, but cutting corners and rushing the job just to save some money doesn't make sense. Adding a Carbon/Valve job to this project (I use a custom made VAG walnut shell blaster - for VW-Audi & Porsche autos) can easily run it into a full day gig, (especially if unknown variables and snags occur). Remember, QUALITY is in the details.
Thank you Charles and Paul I have a 2010 Volkswagen CC and I had a bad injector and the carbon buildup I had no idea how to take out the intake so I watched your video and you guys explain how to remove it step-by-step I came at the carbon buildup I replaced the injector the car runs like if I just drove it off the dealer it went well no problems the tools and the directions you guys explain was on the money so once again thank you guys are from now on I watch all your videos Volkswagen yeah!!!!!
Thanks for the advice on how to remount that bracket. Its been such a bear that i thought i was doing something wrong. Ill try it again and stick withit.
Hi guys, I want to thank you for doing such awesome DIY. This one is particularly incredible. I like playing on my car but I'm a beginner. I was able to perform a super job by following this video. I want to point out the part when you mentionne to stay organized. I would like to share an idea I had that help me a lot. I used a dollarstore tableclothe on my work area and identified all the parts I'd removed with a sharpy directly on the clothe. Im not sure if I can add a picture here. Worth every dollars...actually , worth the 1$. 😊
Ik I’m late for this, your idea is good another great Idek for staying organized is little Dixie cups or solo cups, you can put all your hardware in those and then label them that’s how I do it usually!
Thank you guys for this tutorial, it took me about 8 hours, but I managed it in the end on my 09 Eos with 130km. The worst part was the support bracket which took me about 2 hours solid and the intake valve clean.
Really enjoy your engine video's. Your much more Zen like when your on the tools. That is a good sign. As an DIY mechanic I love to pick up tricks that you show and see which tools you favour. Thanks
Thanks for this video. I was very nervous doing this my 1st time on a direct injection removing the intake manifold. I was very nervous pulling it out and seeing a couple of the injectors stuck. I did not replace the whole manifold I just simply needed to pull it out about an inch to replace the runner manifold center on the side beside the oil filter one of the bolts you could not access without pulling it out.
Thanks for sharing brother Good video, I like that you take a couple of minutes to double check on your work...a mechanic that fix my VW, left the intake throttle connection loose my car shut off and wouldn’t run... I opened the hood and fixed myself... also he forgot a screwdriver in the engine very close to the belt... so dangerous that could blown up my engine... Anyway keep up the good work! Tip: it’s always a good idea to cover the air filter box big hose , so you don’t drop something in there by accident!
The dealership that replaced my manifold under warranty (under previous owner) didn't re-install the lower supporting bracket. Everything seems to work fine without that bracket installed.
I'm at a loss as to why the installation of the bracket was omitted. At 33:00 Charles says that was the most challenging part of the job, and yet it isn't included in the video....why would you want to omit the most challenging part of the job from the how-to video? Thank you for the great video nonetheless!
@@lenschulwitz1934 He shows the bracket farther down the video after he gets the manifold all the way off and mentions if you have never seen what it looks like you may want to advance to that section and then come back.
Thank you a lot for the instruction!!! This video is awesome!! I just replaced my manifold and water pump using it!! Also watched the fuel injector seal video and the work was really straightforward!!! It is not an easy task but with the details here it was totally error free!!! My biggest challenge was to put back the triple square 10mm bolt in the aluminum arm since the access with all the hoses in place is really tight and the Tiguan front grille is taller than the GTI ones!!! Keep up with the great work!!! Thank you again!!
Just managed to get that support bracket in place. I just removed the coolant hoses blocking access and threaded the topside nut first loosely onto the manifold body, then the bottom was relatively easy with the hoses out of the way.
Thanks for the vid. Another manifold replaced to clear 2015 code with your help. Some hints/approaches to that damned bracket is about all I would like to see added to this.
Thank you for the videos. I've been looking for good quality tutorial and how to replace VW parts for a long time. A much needed for VW owners. 2.0T TSI great engine!!. After seen your video I think that I will take my car to the dealer, it is a heck of a lot of work.
Thanks for the video! Helps with my 2009 VW Tiguan Check Engine Light with Code 08213; Intake Manifold Flap Position Sensor (Bank 1) Implausible Signal P2015 - and convinces me to NEVER buy a VW again, ever. All this plastic does not last. It's been a maintenance nightmare.
Thanks a ton, huge help with my DIY carbon cleaning. One correction, the bottom bolt for the lower bracket is NOT 10mm Triple Square, but 9mm triple square.
Many thanks for the video. Did my 2012 audi this weekend and wow was there a lot of carbon. Ended up doing the walnut blasting which worked well. I decided to put the throttle body on after installing the intake. That gave a lot more room for the bracket but that last throttle body bolt on the back side had me pulling out hair.
Excellent video. It gave me the knowledge and confidence to successfully replace the manifold on my '13 CC. That darn bracket had me flummoxed during disassembly. I removed the throttle body and the attached inlet pipe. This made everything about this job less frustrating even though it did add some time.
Great job with the change out .have just changed my mk 6 gti manifold and this video was invaluable . Great Job Charles and shout out to Paul for the idea .great channel and info ( I see what you mean with the support bracket .that was fun )
I have question regarding the Update Hose for New TSI Intake Manifold, where does it hook to? I am considering doing this to my sons 09 GTI, it just threw code P2015.
Thanks for this thorough and informative video! Just finished putting new injectors in tonight and startup and first run right after the job went flawless
I doubt I will be attempting this but at least now I know what the job entails. My Audi is around 35,000 miles now and still runs great so thinking ahead, adding a catch can asap
Hello, I'm swapping my intake manifold and the old fuel rail bracket isn't lining up nicely with the new manifold, I got the black t30 bolts in but the longer silver bolts I can barely get them in. What can I do to help it line up?
During opening tool description I wondered why mr humble left the tool before the screwdriver out of the equation. Also no mention of NEEDED T30 extension to remove T30 bolts underneath through very narrow indents underneath manifold.
At 31:40 the intake bolts use the 5mm Allen? Figured it would be a bigger size. Doing a de carb soon and definitely want all the help I can get. I've worked on a 03 gmc yukon replacing knock sensors that are under the intake. Main issue is ones american and other german.
Good Morning, you took off a pipe/hose time staped 5:07-5:09. Right after you took off the cam position sensor plug, what is that called? I bought a used 2010 VW Passat Komfort Wagen 2.0T and there is no hose/pipe. It just has a bigger hose with a bolt and zip tie at the end. I havent been able to figure out that hose/pipe name. Thanks
Hey guys, I recently did this repair using this video and everything went smoothly. I fixed my cold start misfire issue by getting out the carbon gunk. Car ran really well until I discovered I’m leaking gas pretty bad looks to be from under the manifold. The hard fuel line looks snug to me. What do you think most likely went wrong? Could it be that the bolts at the bottom of the intake are not tight enough?
picked up an autozone loaner tool to reseal the injectors, resealed them and re wired a new connector for the coolant temp sensor that I also screwed up during the job.. but only one way to learn.. , and hey this time only took maybe 30 mins to pull the intake off . @@EazyDuz18
Excellent video. I followed the steps and replaced my injectors. Quick question though, after reassembling everything back I noticed the car cranks but no start? Sometimes it wants to idle but it keeps cranking? Then the battery dies and the car won’t even crank any idea if I’m missing something? Or did my battery just went bad out of nowhere?
![Lp. Сердце Вселенной #60 РОЖДЕНИЕ ЛОЛОЛОШКИ [Финал] • Майнкрафт](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/YoR0pAV9FVQ/mqdefault.jpg)
- We appreciate your Support and Purchases!
Intake Manifold for VW/Audi CCTA/CBFA - Genuine VW/Audi
www.shopdap.com/vw-2-0-t-intake-manifold-06j133201bd.html
Intake Manifold for VW/Audi CCTA/CBFA - Vaico
www.shopdap.com/06j133201bhvco-intake-manifold-for-2-0t-tsi.html
Intake Manifold for Audi CAEB (Longitudinal) Engines
www.shopdap.com/06h-133-201-at-vw-audi.html
Intake Manifold Install Kit
www.shopdap.com/intake-manifold-install-kit-for-2-0t-tsi-06j198201bhgrp.html
Fuel Injector Seal Install Tool
www.shopdap.com/wkz-t10133c.html
This also would be the same procedure when replacing this 2.0T TSI Fuel Injector
www.shopdap.com/vw-audi-20t-tsi-fuel-injector-06h906036ab-bosch.html
After doing this job (in preparation for decarbing the valves on a 2010 GTI) the car started throwing codes all over the place. I'm getting a P2008, a P2008 P, a P0341 P, and both the EPC dash light and the Oil Pressure warning that keep flashing on and off above 2,500 RPM. Driveability issues are present. Can't rev the engine up too much or it starts to hesitate.
I removed all kinds of sensors (that perhaps shouldn't have been removed), such as the camshaft sensor and the air charge temp sensor. What is the likelihood I may have damaged them while cleaning them (if they even need cleaning)?
I just did the this job, took me about 4 hrs to do it, thanks a lot you help me and save $1000. It's what the dealer wants to do the same job, very helpful 👌
How did you take off the bracket on the body without lifting the car?
Yeah wish me luck I got to do it just for a damn regulator pressure sensor #2 that's under the manifold, fuel lines, hoses, etc.
The only direct way to get to it is with a deep socket 27 mm wrench. But the oil dipsticks in the way. So then I get that out of the way and then the sockets too thick to fit in between the gap of the manifold 🤦🏾♂️.......
They got to have a Gumby twisty elbow flexy type wrench to use for this..... Oh yes of course they do but none come in 27 mm
@@BirdFromYakiVegas lmao me today in my mk5 gti, that middle bracket omg, got to go back to it tomorrow spend hours toddy messing with they one bracket
Im trying to muster up the courage to do this. I cant afford to pay to get it done, plus i dont hve the extra money to do the carbon clean, which should be included in the repair price more affordably since the major work is taking this off
@@zachariahmetoyer6425 I just did it in a 6 or so hour time span , tricky bolts to get at but it’s off and can see the dirty carbon build up on the valves , it’s worth it if you got the time !!
⚠️ WARNING ⚠️
This is MUCH, much more difficult than our friendly seasoned veteran VW Master mechanic makes it look, especially if your EA888 is in a Golf R, and ESPECIALLY if that Golf R is RHD. The engine an accessory positions are similar to what’s shown in the video, but NOT the same, and often MUCH more involved to remove. (The throttle body absolutely 100% needs to be removed on a RHD Mk6 Golf R for example, and other parts need to be removed to get to the throttle body bolts.
Expect to spend upward of half a day just to remove the intake manifold, and possibly multiple days removing it multiple times for fuel injector leaks. You can do it, but come in prepared to spend a considerable amount of time and effort, and needing many more tools than mentioned here. This great video (I mean that sincerely, thank you Charles) is just a general baseline for what you’ll have to do to get it done right. Good luck!
Just finished doing this job. Much more difficult and involved than expected. Took me a whole day of working on it to do it. It’s doable but it requires back support and good talking buddies.
specialy the famous bracket that he didNt show!
7 yrs later and this vid is spot on and helped with carbon cleaning of my CC. Thankfully we don't have that support bracket
I had to take off the manifold in order to reach the water pump. I found that it's a lot easier if you remove the throttle body. Taking off the throttle body allows easy access to that brace, which requires the triple square to remove. In the video, he doesn't remove it due to his experience, but it helps a lot.
I wish I had read this comment before I did this the first time. That stupid brace took more time to remove than everything else combined.
Agreed!
Same here that stupid bolt is almost impossible to reach with out removing the throttle body
@michaelw6277 is it at all possible to remove it by just removing the top 13 and then rotating the brace to the side or something or is it absolutely a must to remove that triple square
I have found that removing the brace is much easier if you remove the intake hose upstream of throttle body and then detach the two plastic coolant lines and unscrew the two T30s attaching it to the manifold. By doing this, you have a lot of space to see the 13mm nut and the TS10 bolts. Use a 3" extension on your TS10 and viola!
Performed this job as a non-mechanic expert on 2011 GTI. Here are notes that I hope might be helpful for others.
OBDII error codes: p0301, p0300, p2293.
My unique problem and the solution:
Driving down freeway, lost power and had check engine light come on, car sputtered home. Checked out fuel pressure test kit at Autozone, which confirmed no fuel pressure into high pressure fuel pump, and changing out the low pressure fuel pump solved the fuel pressure problem and the p2293 error, but the misfires, smoke rings, and rough idle were still present. I believe my fuel pressure sensor was broken, and ran out of gas. Running out of gas, took air and particulate through the fuel system and messed up my fuel injectors, which I replaced thanks to this video after taking off the manifold and cleaning out the carbon. This removed the p0301 and p0300 errors and now my car runs better than before the problem!
Notes on intake manifold removal:
-Beforehand, I read through all the comments in this video and watched this video and How to Automotive's video: ua-cam.com/video/d6jkEyncdCA/v-deo.html multiple times.
-An additional tool needed that is not mentioned at 0:30 is a 1/4 inch extension, which is necessary for removing the 2 t30 screws underneath the manifold (the 3/8 inch extension you might have for changing your spark plugs will not work for this purpose, as the diameter of the holes in the intake manifold is less than 3/8"). Charles says the long extension is for saving your back, but beyond that, it's actually necessary to complete this job.
-Differing from Charles' advice at 9:25. I was able to disconnect the intake pipe by only taking off one t30 screw off the hard plastic pipe (I didn't see a second t30 screw), and the electrical cable had enough slack, so I didn't disconnect it.
-I've had 3 manifold replacements, and on one of the replacements, a mechanic decided not to replace the hard-to-remove bracket referenced in the video, so I don't have any tips for this, except that the part number is 06H-129-723-K if you need to get one.
-In contrast to Charles, I did not loosen the hard fuel line where it connects up to the intake manifold. It was too hard to get at, and it was unnecessary to do so.
-The black plastic bracket which holds the wires that plug into the fuel injectors was attached to my intake manifold with a plastic expanding retainer clip. Before removing the manifold completely, I first disconnected this clip with needle nose pliers, but didn't end up reconnecting it, as it didn't seem necessary to do so.
Notes on fuel injectors:
-One of my fuel injectors was incredibly stuck and would not come out. I tried spraying WD-40 around the injector and letting it sit over night, but that didn't seem to help much. I tried using pliers to turn CW and CCW and wiggle back and forth, but that didn't work either and I eventually cracked the plastic doing that. What finally worked was grabbing the injector and rather than trying to pull it, just sitting back with my whole weight for a while, which eventually brought it to slowly slide out.
Notes on carbon cleaning:
-After nine years of driving, my carbon build up was very thick.
-I do not have a blaster tool, so I did almost all of the carbon cleaning by hand. It took 2 cans of Autozone's carb cleaner, paper towels, and a pick, plus many hours and some elbow grease. I sprayed the carb cleaner on the valves, then crammed the paper towel into the valve, and pushed it around and retrieved it with the pick. I considered, but did not end up opening and closing the valves by turning the engine crankshaft pulley with a 24 mm socket (as I didn't have one), but the end result was still very clean valves.
Connector/hose checklist:
-I don't know the names/functions of all the connectors and hoses, but I wanted to keep a count of disconnected ones, and count down from these numbers as I plugged them in. Here is the count for my job:
*10 connectors sitting directly under the manifold to replug: 6 on the fuel injector bracket (4 of which connect to the fuel injectors), then another 4 on another wire (3 of which are colored purple and orange). Since I didn't have the bracket, I didn't disconnect the coolant temperature sensor at 24:20, but that would make an 11th connector.
*1 connector off to the right of the manifold near the vacuum hose (also, if you did as Charles and removed the plastic intake pipe connector at 9:25, you'll have 2 here)
*So in sum, anywhere from 11-13 connectors to replug, depending on how you do the job.
*I also counted 3 main hoses to replug, the small vacuum hose beginning at the right of the engine and plugging into the bottom right side of the manifold (no clamp), another one starting near the coolant tank and plugging in near the left front side of the manifold, and another one beginning from between the first two coils. Then, there's the 4th hose that you completely detach that connects from the PCV valve to the intake manifold.
Intake manifold reassembly:
-I removed the orange manifold gasket and rubbed dielectric grease over every part of it to minimize degradation to gasket and ensure an air-tight seal. I also very lightly greased the fuel injector seals and the place where they plug into the manifold.
-I used a torque wrench to tighten the main nuts holding the manifold in place to 10 Nm (which I found somewhere online, and which was actually not as tight as I thought it would be).
-There are two nuts to tighten when reconnecting the hard fuel line to the high pressure pump, a bottom one which is silver and tightens the compression fitting, and a top one which is gold and attached to the hpfp. I tightened only the bottom one, which caused a fuel leak. Tighten both (the top one first), to avoid this situation.
-I was able to complete the whole job without getting underneath the car or disconnecting the throttle body (however, if you have the infamous bracket, you might need/want to.)
Thank you Charles (HumbleMechanic) and Deutsche Auto Parts!
Thank you, I think this comment should be higher
Thanks!
This most be the top best comments in this video, thanks!!
Worst part about this job is that bracket for the manifold. Taking the throttle body off seems necessary, but getting those screws back in for the throttle body is no easy task either. This is the second time I've used this video and it makes the job sooo much easier. Thank you for this.
Though it's a 6 year old video it's still helping me big time. I watched this vid in 2x speed twice. After getting everything off, I watched it again in normal speed. Thanks for the step by step on this! Few notes for people like myself working on a now older, typically higher mileage MK6:
1. Do the intake carbon cleaning. Mine was so caked with crud that stalagmites were being formed off the top of the valve. Scary to think I'm Stage 1+ tune and have these overhanging maintenance problems that the PO did not take care of.
2. When doing the intake cleaning you have 2 options: chemicals or walnut blasting. A walnut blasting setup is minimum $300 (compressor, hoses, media, and a small hopper gun).
3. I did the chemical route. Its COVID 19 quarantine season right now so I have plenty of time. What I discovered was: Start with manually scraping with a pick. Followed by CRC Valve Cleaning aerosol spray. From there, use B12 aerosol spray. Then, finish it with CLR (yea that cheap bottled stuff). CLR is the secret here..it brings the valves back down to clean metal. Use a pick and paper towels (rip them into 2"x2" pieces and use the pick to push them around).
4. Follow with vacuuming/compressed air spraying.
Side notes:
1. you can open and close the valves by hand by spinning the belt off the alternator. Gloves help with grip, and avoid pinching your fingers.
2. That triple square #10? I used a #8 Allen, square (not ball end). No stripping.
Did you replace the intake manifold gasket? In all the videos I've seen no one mentions it but I feel like it should be replaced when you remove the intake manifold?
@@Eli9s I replaced the fuel rail and intake to the latest version (I believe its the 4th revision) because my version was failing - which came with fresh gaskets.
If you're going to take the time to clean the carbon I would also go to the latest fuel rail and intake assembly. Regardless, I recommend a fresh gasket. Sure, the original is a polymer that will last for years, but it's an inexpensive maintenance item (~$25). Just make sure that the gasket aligns with your specific intake assembly because there are 4 versions with slight differences.
4 Month update: I also upgraded to an oil catch can. A plug-and-play setup is $300+. In my mind, any GDI engine should have a catch can. I went with ECS' one. The quality is good and everything bolted up well. It will help prolong the maintenance interval between carbon cleanings.
@@richiethompson2919 thx for the reply.
@@richiethompson2919 i have the 2014 gen3 GLI and now im scared to order the gasket because this car has a bastard motor and everything seems different on it. Thanks for the advice. Not sure on what version of fuel rail my car has either but considering its the ea888.3 ill probably just leave it be
This was not a fun task but the video was a great resource. I wish it only took four hours. Note to DIYers - take care of the fuel injectors while you have everything apart, and the Check Engine Light came on after I got everything back together but cleared and stayed off after about 50 miles of driving.
I’m literally an hour into this job thanks man
I used this video as a primary how-to along with other videos and forum posts for other angles and specifics about the job. I ended up stripping one lower manifold T-30 on re-installation and wanted to post my solution. Rather than uninstalling everything and re-tapping I found a 10mm M6 bolt at the hardware store that was 20mm longer than the factory bolt and needed to add a 1/2" nylon spacer to make it fit correctly into the block. No problems as a result of this rig. I also cleaned the injectors and got all new seals for those - if your valves are all crudded up your injectors will be too. Doing that added 2 hrs to the job including constructing a diy injector cleaning station and figuring out a way to re-seat the high pressure injector seals without special tools (best to buy the tool and re-sell to other vw owners).
Can’t thank you enough. DAP hooked it up, intake and injectors actually showed up in 2 days so I spent the Saturday tearing down and cleaning. Amazing tutorial and it’s not as hard as it seems. But finally fixed my wife CC and it runs better than new. Again much thanks to DAP and Charles for making this happen
so im about to order a manifold and do this myself..love both DAP and Humble..it looks hard tho, how did u manage?
@@yannzter I was nervous to do it my first time but it really isn’t hard
I really appreciate you making this video from the perspective of someone without a lift. Very helpful for DIYers. Doing a valve decarb today. Wish me luck!
A few notes from my experience doing the decarb. Just replace it all while you're there - Intake manifold and injector seals. After doing a decarb and putting it all back together, I got a P2015 code for intake manifold performance. The code wasn't there before I started, but came about after reinstallation. I'm redoing the job today to replace this part - $150 shipped on Rock Auto.
Other notes:
1) Make sure your T30 is a 1/4 drive, as his is. a 3/8 inch drive will make it hell accessing the lower manifold bolts.
2) Even if you don't have a lift, go ahead and remove the lower shield so you can access things from the bottom, it will make your life easier. You don't need to lift the vehicle.
3) I didn't bother removing the throttle body, because I found accessing the back T30's as hard as removing the 10 triple square on the brace. Accessing the brace is all about patience, finding the right angles. Pull the Main air pipe all the way down underneath the vehicle to give yourself plenty of space.
4) When reinstalling, I started the brace w/ the 13 mm nut and let it hang down. It made it easier to get it in place.
5) Finally, be very careful with the air ducting. The plastic tabs are quite easy to break and the piece will not stay in place without them. I had to order another piece for $20.
Good luck!!!
I just want to first thank you sir for this video. I had the P2015 code and decided to do it myself when the dealer said 4200$. Fairly easy job just because everything is on top and easy to access. I work full time so this job took a couple weeks to complete. TAKE YOUR TIME AND BE PATIENT. Watch the video over and over and over until you memorize and it will make the job a lot smoother especially on the reinstall. THAT BRACKET IS A MOFO!!! LOL. Got it off though and it's a lot easier to put back on. I recommend removing the throttle body but those two back screws will tear up some flesh. And I also recommend watching a couple other videos from others who have done this job before just to get some more knowledge and different techniques are used especially with the bracket. This is by far the most difficult job I have ever done but it is doable. Don't be scared. Once again, thank you sir for this video. Now time to go collect my payment from the Mrs. 😜
my dealer charged me $600 to not figure out the issue with my brakes (200) that i needed new coils and plugs because apparently the ones i had in weren't "OEM" enough even though it was the same company that makes the branded oem sparks and coils, that cost another 200. then they said 200 for an issue i told them i figured out myself. A new cabin fan if you were curious. they wouldnt have known about the cabin fan being an issue unless i said "hey i figured it out its the cabin fan at low speeds that makes the noise, so i don't need it diagnosed anymore." oh wait i did say that! Valley Imports in Fargo ND incase you want to know where not to take your vehicle to get serviced.
Really appreciate the video. Replaced my partners inlet manifold for a VW Scirrocco TSI.
First ever ‘big’ job I’ve done and the video has been super helpful. We were quoted £1,500 for this fix, so opted to DIY.
That bracket was a massive pain and also had to remove the throttle body to access the triple square.
I found going next to the alternator to reach the triple square was the easiest route but darn…. that took ages to get to.
Car ran real rough as soon as I switched the car back on, but after a reset via VCDS, engine management light came off and is running smoothly.
Great videos and thank you again for posting.
I can get a manifold replaced and injector for £100 here uk in garage
Give me the garages number for that quote mate are put them straight money grabbing wankas lol
@@kylejesson1774damn, I’m based in South London so I guess prices are higher here than most places. Inlet manifold cost me £76 alone on Autodoc I also replaced all injectors which were £85 or so each. Dont even want to know how much VW would want for the OEM parts. Don’t see how anyone can get a 4x hour job done for £100 with/without parts anywhere in the country.
@@kylejesson1774 what place mate? I would book with them? Need mine done
This may be the best auto repair video I’ve ever watch. The meticulous attention to detail and thorough explanation of every single step is superb. Getting the download from a master VW tech is very appreciated
Thank you for this tutorial, it is fantastic. I replaced my 50k miles '09 Passat manifold and also clean/decarb intake valves. Actually cleaning is the most time consuming part of the job, incredible how much carbonization sticks to intake valves.
Now P2015 fault has gone.
Some tips/comments:
1 - You really need a minimum 8 inch 1/4" extension. 3/8" does not reach lower T30s.
2 - That triple square nut extends the definition of inaccessible. Had to drain and disassemble the coolant line to get access.
3 - Did you say abyss when talking about the bottom of this engine? Perfect definition, have a lot of magnetic pick up tools.
4 - Lots of low pressure and misfire error codes due to empty high pressure fuel line when restarting. Just clear them after some miles. I also got low pressure alarm but noticed the fuel pressure sensor (below cylinder 2 intake) was misconnected.
Thanks from Brazil!!
Clovis Tanganelli Thanks for the feedback. We appreciate it.
+Clovis Tanganelli , what is an 8' 1/4" extension, can you please show me a link, I don't know where to find one. thanks
+kirkferentzrocks : I was trying to convert to british units but I really mean 200 mm long 1/4" square socket extension. www.tool-net.co.uk/p-398884/facom-r217-1-4-drive-200mm-extension.html.
3/8" drive sockets will not reach the lower T30 bolts, not enough clearance.
hey, all my drives are 3/8" , why is the 1/4" better? thanks
+kirkferentzrocks Look at the bolts he is removing at 14:45, they are difficult to access and my 3/8" drives are too big to fit the clearance. But before buying new tools just try yours, perhaps your tools can reach these bolts.
Just watched your video DAP
Thank you for the tutorial if you are watching this and are about to do the labor , make sure you watch this video numerous times , take notes , and start in the morning
This is a professional pace, DIYs you might finish in the evening
Take your time.
Make sure it doesn’t rain and don’t loose any parts. German cars is not the the type to work without the same screws and bolts you started with.
Just wanted to say thank you for publishing such an informative video on the intake removal procedure! I had to do an intake valve cleaning job on my mom’s 2010 Passat recently. I’m a VR6 guy and I had never really worked with the 2.0T engines, so this video was extremely helpful. I did end up taking the throttle body and bracket off though to avoid accidentally yanking those wires from the connector underneath. Used solvent, picks, toothbrush, and the zip tie drill method to remove the carbon deposits. Just took my time with it all and I’m happy to say the operation was successful. And my mom is super happy to have the cold start misfires gone! Thanks guys!!
Great Video!
I am a former Mercedes Benz tech and shop owner and I have tremendous respect for you VW techs. I say it to all of the techs when I see them when I go into the VW/Audi dealer for parts.
I have a customer with a leaking water pump or so it appears on a 2011 CC. I honestly don't want to do the job. I get beat up enough with Mercedes vehicles. I can't imagine that job being much less than $1,000. If I do it, I would like to address anything else while I am in there.
LOVE this video. Saved me tons and almost impressed my wife with my newly acquired mechanical skills. Did the work on a 2013 Tiguan with 120k miles and everything went freaking awesome, EXCEPT THAT FREAKING BRACKET. That took a few years off my life, I guarantee it. Mind you; I'm 6'1" and 260lbs. so fitting in spaces doesn't go very well with accessing things under the hood. But yeah, eff that bracket.
One problem that I'm having now that the job's done; my temperature gauge is now going from bone cold to normal operating temperature within minutes of startup or within one mile traveled. The gauge doesn't go any higher though. The car does not overheat. I took it to the dealer and had them check it out. They cleared all the old codes and such, drove it around and no new codes. Nothing. Nada. But the friggin' temperature gauge still jumps to high noon before I can get my seatbelt on.
Help?
that's been the case for my 2012 tiguan since the day i bought it.
Great video. Replaced the manifold and did a carbon clean on my MK5 GTI and it runs like new. Charles and Paul, thanks for the video. I started to make a video of the de-carb but what a nightmare. Do your homework and watch this thing a few times and you shouldn't have a problem. I recommend removing the throttle body to make dealing with the lower bracket easier. I also recommend removing the cool air intake pipe by lifting the car on jack stands and drop it out the bottom. The only thing I had to find elsewhere was how and where to install the new fresh air port on the new manifold design.
Great tutorial! I removed the alternator as well, this helped facilitate the removal and installation of the mounting bracket on a 2010 EOS. I also purchased a grit blaster and cleaned the intake valves with walnut shells while the manifold was removed. At 160 km it was surprising to see the amount of carbon build up.
I had the same problem with my 2010 VW CC, and I haven't done without seeing your video, it helps me a lot and I have a good result since I changed the entire manifold and cleaning injectors and new seals, thanks a million, I couldn't have done without you guys, thanks a lot.
+Rudy Gomez glad we could help
Man you’re a great teacher. I can tell you’re a master mechanic, I’m not even an auto mechanic I’m an industrial mechanic.
Awesome mechanic. Aaron Kaufman lookalike! Without your video I wouldn’t have been able to do this job on a 2012 Jetta. Thanks for the awesome detail you go into. Regards Greg
Great video. Just finished an intake carbon cleaning on my 2012 Beetle TSI with 100k. Also resealed the injectors, replaced the PCV valve. Was surprised to see the manifold bracket was nowhere to be found; but was a good indicator that the previous owner had the manifold replaced - and maybe a carbon cleaning? I won’t say this job was easy (I’m a relative newbie), but it’s given me the confidence to do just about anything under the hood. Tip for newbies: be sure to check that the high pressure line is seated and snug on both sides. I had a fuel leak - initially I thought it was a bad injector seal - so I took the manifold and injectors off again - only to realize it was the fuel line.
Took me 7 hours but this video helped me a bunch, even did my own carbon cleaning! thanks you!!
drove my honda accord 09 v6 coupe from 77k to 135 k (until some idiot jumped in front of me)and never ANY issues. drove my 2013 jetta gli from 114k to 124k and already a clutch/intake manifold/HPFP/fuel sensor etc. Never will I purchase another and honestly, I may even skip Audi's but thanks guys, you do an amazing job with your tutorials.
In comparison, I drove my 2010 GTI from 77k to 135k (what are the odds) and this is the first issue I get.
@@deegleedee well, at least it isn't totalled lol. Yeah i went to vw dealer and it cost 1100 to get this part replaced. Ugh. Checked warranty as other have mentioned but it expired at 120k i think for this particular part. Like fucckkk
I still drive my 98 crv with 300k and never an issue ! Lol
This video is the intake manifold Bible haha! I'm in the middle of doing this and have followed thIs video step by step. I decided to remove the throttlebody to make it easier to get under the manifold. I discovered my car did not have the wire harness ripping bracket. Hope it's not necessary. I got all the bolts off the manifold but it is being tough. Hope I don't break it lol. I'm can't wait to finally carbon clean!
So thank you very much Humble! I love your channel and think you're a great dude!
VW 💕
Great Video, not sure that i would have got this done without viewing it. That bracket is so buried that i thought someone had previously not replaced it. I had to remove the throttle body in situ to get access and even then it was restricted.👍
Great video! I had to remove the alternator on my 2009 CC to get at the lower bracket. It would have been nearly impossible to reach otherwise. Thanks for the amazing tutorial. Well done!
Thank you for this video. The dealership described this process to my wife and made it seem like it was incredibly difficult lol. I'm used to working on a LS but this isn't remotely difficult. You don't even want to know what they quoted this at.
I want to know the quote 🙋🏻♂️ 😂?
Took me about 8 hours between 2 days but god damn it, its done
Definitely not easy but doable
Yeah he makes it look easy… it’s definitely not. I’ve done it once and I’ll probably just pay someone next time
me 10 hours to do this
I'm so annoyed that I am barely seeing this video. I just recently took out the water pump on my 2014 VW CC w/ 50K miles on it and replaced it with the metal one you guys sell. I left the bracket on the intake manifold this time thinking it wouldn't do anything. Tell me why literally pulled the wired out of the coolant temp sensor from the water pump just like you mentioned in this video 😅. Thats what I get for trying to cut corners and save time and effort. Thank for the videos, though the water pump video you did was not exactly the same as my CC it did help A WHOLE lot. Thanks again.
On my friend's VW 2009 EOS TSI, I needed to remove a short/sideways coolant hose on the midsection of the two plastic vertical coolant pipes, so that I could swing them out of the way. After doing this, I could then remove the hard to get at aluminum support bracket. Thank you so much for providing this essential video!
Thank you for posting this video but a bigger thank you to the humble mechanic for making the video and letting you post his video
Thank you for posting this video. I have no idea how much money you saved me but I bet it was a lot more than the money I spent on the manifold. I was able to fix it myself with your video as guidance. I really appreciate it.
Thank you so much for that. Removing your intake manifold and cleaning your valves would likely cost around $500-700 depending on whos doing it. We are so glad we were able to help you save some money.
@@Deutscheautoparts Volkswagen Billings charged almost 1200 dollars for a "fuel induction service" on the last guy who owned my car. Not sure if that was strictly intake cleaning or what but my god this video is gonna save me from so much financial pain.
Thank you for sharing your knowledge. Replaced injectors to my VW cc flawlessly following your video. Saved $550....
Thank you so much for your time and knowledge. Just did a intake manifold replacement on a 2010 va cc. I did things a little differently removing that bracket from the toddle body without a lift but thanks to your video I knew the part to look out for. FYI ...the toddle body bracket was removed from the top with out a lift from the top. Used a t30 along with a swivel and extension. Also a magnet is a great tool .thanks again you were a big help
Well done. I will have to do this when the weather warms up to replace my water pump. This makes me really miss my 1970 Chevy.
Many Thanks for posting this video and supporting us who still like working on their own vehicles!
Watching this makes me appreciate my LS motor so much more. I have to do this on my wife's car and hate it anytime I have to work on it. It always takes 4 times as long to don anything :(
I was on 3rd, yes 3rd intake manifold (yeah, tell me about that GREAT German engineering) when I decided to save myself 800 bucks and do it myself. I started doing some preplanning for the work when I decided to look a look at that dreaded lower bracket. Apparently my VW dealer felt it was unnecessary and left it off during the last installation. I studied this vid carefully and was able to do the job in about 3 hours. Even though I have a spare lower bracket laying around , I didn't install it either. Its not that bad of a job if you just take your time and VERY carefully tighten the manifold bolts (first tighten to 3 NM and then tighten to 9NM - per VW Factory repair manual) Good luck all!
soonerlon so you really don’t need that lower bracket?? I’m putting my intake back on currently and am really struggling with that bracket
I can't seem to get to the bracket what so ever. Any tips? Wish they included this in the video.
@@mattviskI cant figure the bracket install either
@@jaedman I managed to get it. I forget what it was but good luck!
@@mattvisk mostly getting access to the bolt by disconnecting some coolant hoses and the valve body was key for me, i have big hands. And dismounting the alternator didnt seem like the right bag of worms to open.
Awesome video, thank you! Took me appx 5 hours and saved hundreds. The worst part is that stupid bracket under the throttle body.
Haha I ripped my cts wires right off but found a connector at junkyard.but what's important is your video showed me where to splice yellow wire to!!!! THANK YOU!!!!
Which video shows you?
Well,I had to go through a few of the manifold removal.It wasn't something that was highlighted but more something I watched for and saw as he ( technician) was going through the steps.....I'm so sorry....but if I'm correct I think it was yellow wire on left.dont trust that though.
Thanks for the videos man. Very well made and articulated. I had two intake runner codes on mine that popped up about two months after I bought it. it was a little frustrating. I bought the ECS repair part and crossed my fingers. Didn't work. So then I bought a new Runner sensor and saw that the whole thing had to come out... so I loosened everything up just enough to access it behind the oil filter housing and put it back together. Oddly enough one of the runner error codes went away and the other one came back so I bought a whole new intake manifold and just finished the job. Referenced your video a few times! 👍🙂
A BIG thanks from Brazil, because of that vídeo i could do the job on my B7 2.0 Tsi Passat. You have now a follower from Rio de Janeiro. THANKS A LOT!!
I can't thank you enough for this tutorial, my CC has been in so many garages & cost me so much money chasing diagnosis & all along it was the dreaded carbon buildup.
Cleaned it all today & now she's running like a new car.
Thank you!!!!!!
This video has saved me so much hassle and money but what a pain in the arse job to do. Mk6 gti left me at work 2 days ago smoke everywhere, misfiring I thought it blew up. Injectors only I had to do, on the side of the street, tho it would of really helped if you had the support Bracket removal as that is a migraine. Thanks again and great vid as it saved me a week's wait.
Massive thank you for this video, helped me make sure I had all the right tools before I started! I was fortunate that my 2010 Skoda Octavia vRs didn't have the bracket.
i had to replace replace a fuel injector and said heck lets just change them all got them at shopdap and the price was one of the best thabk you guys while i was there i decided to clean the intakes (really time comsuming) a challenging diy all and all thanks for the tutorial it help me a lot
Manuel Huerta the cleaning of the valves is what is stoping me from doing this DIY , saw a video of a guy using walnut shell that was fast .
Non euro tech here, great vid, your confidence is contagious, made it easy afternoon for me. Thanks!
I had to remove the intake to replace the water pump on my Tiguan. The video was very helpful and like others the hardest part was removing the bracket that holsd the TB to the engine block. I suppose that this is needed to help support the TB in order to not put all the weight on the intake bolts and stress them due to vibration. I found that getting the bolt back in was the hardest part. I completely removed the boost pipe as I was able to get under the car since it is a Tiguan. Also, removing bracket nut on the TB was easier to get underneath the car. I could not find a 1/4" drive 10mm triple square anywhere, only a 3/8". It is probably easier to get to the lower bracket bolt with a 1/4 drive and extension. The problem is the solid coolant pipes that run right in front of the triple square bolt which basically gives you no room to work. When I have to remove the intake again to do the carbon cleaning I might try and remove the solid coolant pipe to give me more room. I did clean the intake partitions since they were easy to remove and it seems that these were worse than the valves themselves at 78K miles. It really is a stupid design engineering wise as the could have accomplished supporting the TB much more easily.
Thanks for the video. I'm a decent home wrench, but this took me far longer than the 4 hours suggested. A couple points: I had to remove the throttle body to get access and see the connections under the manifold. The triple square was very difficult. I finally succeeded with a short bit on a stubby ratchet with a folding handle. For the carbon, I picked it first, let the CRC soak overnight, which removed much of the gunk. The zip tie method didn't work for me as I couldn't keep the zipties in the chuck. I used small sections of red scotchbrite held with a long set of forceps to scrub the intake portion of the head and the front of the valve. Preinstall and then remove the throttle body screws to cut the threads prior to putting the intake on - this allows easier screw insertion later. Make sure the connector adjacent to the oil filter is connected before you place the intake into position - I had to redo the installation process. Have fun and savor beating the $1k labor bill.
Thank you guys, looks pretty straight forward. taking the GTi to the dealer on Monday for the extended warranty on the manifold for CEL. Watched it just incase they do not want to change it because of the oil catch can.
I have this done twice already. Once for the recall and wanted 500 to clean carbon. I said no. Then hit 80000 and got cold start codes and dealer wanted 1600 dollars. Said no and drove to independent and got decarb done for 490. I like you as a mechanic but I sometimes wonder where they come up with these numbers. 1600 dollars is a mortgage payment and then some. I was told that it was a ten eleven hour job. The independent had it off and decarb in four hours. Car runs great again shifts smoother better gas mileage. The key was over 1000 dollars cheaper.
11 hour job, DAMN!!!!!
11 hours is a little excessive for this job.
DAP has great vids keep it up.
Well, I have done this job several times and because of that experience, I can now replace the manifold in less than 90 minutes. But that's irrelevant! Speed does not make a mechanic any better than another who is detail oriented because he does a QUALITY job! Sure it may save you money, but cutting corners and rushing the job just to save some money doesn't make sense. Adding a Carbon/Valve job to this project (I use a custom made VAG walnut shell blaster - for VW-Audi & Porsche autos) can easily run it into a full day gig, (especially if unknown variables and snags occur). Remember, QUALITY is in the details.
Dale Fluegel Dd.
Love to hear good technician stories rock on !!!
Thank you Charles and Paul I have a 2010 Volkswagen CC and I had a bad injector and the carbon buildup I had no idea how to take out the intake so I watched your video and you guys explain how to remove it step-by-step I came at the carbon buildup I replaced the injector the car runs like if I just drove it off the dealer it went well no problems the tools and the directions you guys explain was on the money so once again thank you guys are from now on I watch all your videos Volkswagen yeah!!!!!
how do you clean the carbon buildup?
Just an info about the tools.where can i get them and how much
Thanks for the advice on how to remount that bracket. Its been such a bear that i thought i was doing something wrong. Ill try it again and stick withit.
Hi guys,
I want to thank you for doing such awesome DIY. This one is particularly incredible. I like playing on my car but I'm a beginner. I was able to perform a super job by following this video.
I want to point out the part when you mentionne to stay organized.
I would like to share an idea I had that help me a lot. I used a dollarstore tableclothe on my work area and identified all the parts I'd removed with a sharpy directly on the clothe.
Im not sure if I can add a picture here. Worth every dollars...actually , worth the 1$. 😊
Ik I’m late for this, your idea is good another great Idek for staying organized is little Dixie cups or solo cups, you can put all your hardware in those and then label them that’s how I do it usually!
That's genius.
Thank you guys for this tutorial, it took me about 8 hours, but I managed it in the end on my 09 Eos with 130km. The worst part was the support bracket which took me about 2 hours solid and the intake valve clean.
Really enjoy your engine video's. Your much more Zen like when your on the tools. That is a good sign.
As an DIY mechanic I love to pick up tricks that you show and see which tools you favour. Thanks
20:59 how did you get the spport of intake manifold out by just using your hand?
Thanks for this video. I was very nervous doing this my 1st time on a direct injection removing the intake manifold. I was very nervous pulling it out and seeing a couple of the injectors stuck. I did not replace the whole manifold I just simply needed to pull it out about an inch to replace the runner manifold center on the side beside the oil filter one of the bolts you could not access without pulling it out.
Thank you for this video. I followed this video in the garage for carbon removal job, and it was really valuable.
Thanks for sharing brother
Good video, I like that you take a couple of minutes to double check on your work...a mechanic that fix my VW, left the intake throttle connection loose my car shut off and wouldn’t run... I opened the hood and fixed myself... also he forgot a screwdriver in the engine very close to the belt... so dangerous that could blown up my engine...
Anyway keep up the good work!
Tip: it’s always a good idea to cover the air filter box big hose , so you don’t drop something in there by accident!
LOVE TO SEE A 2.0L TDI THERMOSTAT REPLACEMENT FELLAS
Well I did it. Updated intake and decarbon. That bracket under the intake is a real beauty.
But everyone WANTED to see the bracket put back underneath! ;-) And you left a ratchet in the cowl area... :D Good Job, Charles!
The dealership that replaced my manifold under warranty (under previous owner) didn't re-install the lower supporting bracket. Everything seems to work fine without that bracket installed.
I'm at a loss as to why the installation of the bracket was omitted. At 33:00 Charles says that was the most challenging part of the job, and yet it isn't included in the video....why would you want to omit the most challenging part of the job from the how-to video? Thank you for the great video nonetheless!
@@lenschulwitz1934 He shows the bracket farther down the video after he gets the manifold all the way off and mentions if you have never seen what it looks like you may want to advance to that section and then come back.
21:02....that magical moment when you pulled that bracket out from underneath the manifold. The Eos required a male spline socket to remove.
Andrew Tyndall do you know what it’s call my car Doesn’t have that
Amazing job explaining this quite complicated task
Thank you a lot for the instruction!!! This video is awesome!! I just replaced my manifold and water pump using it!! Also watched the fuel injector seal video and the work was really straightforward!!! It is not an easy task but with the details here it was totally error free!!! My biggest challenge was to put back the triple square 10mm bolt in the aluminum arm since the access with all the hoses in place is really tight and the Tiguan front grille is taller than the GTI ones!!! Keep up with the great work!!! Thank you again!!
Thank you again!. I started with a 1985 Golf that made it to 300K. I have an 2004 Jetta at 274K. And a 2015 Passat TDI that I kept despite the recall.
Just managed to get that support bracket in place. I just removed the coolant hoses blocking access and threaded the topside nut first loosely onto the manifold body, then the bottom was relatively easy with the hoses out of the way.
Thanks for the vid. Another manifold replaced to clear 2015 code with your help. Some hints/approaches to that damned bracket is about all I would like to see added to this.
after a year of watching this video I am finally trying this out, wish me luck!
12 hrs later and i’m done
@@michaelflops I am about to embark on this ordeal in the next week or so....
Thank you for the videos. I've been looking for good quality tutorial and how to replace VW parts for a long time. A much needed for VW owners. 2.0T TSI great engine!!. After seen your video I think that I will take my car to the dealer, it is a heck of a lot of work.
If you get a cold start error on log, it's COVERED under warranty to 120K miles for 2008-2010 my
Thanks for the video! Helps with my 2009 VW Tiguan Check Engine Light with Code 08213; Intake Manifold Flap Position Sensor (Bank 1) Implausible Signal P2015 - and convinces me to NEVER buy a VW again, ever. All this plastic does not last. It's been a maintenance nightmare.
You just did this and i need advice pls. On 5:17 he talks about disconnecting a hose. how did you disconnect yours? it’s being a pain.
You just saved me $800 that I didn't have. Thank you.
Props to you for being willing to work on these. I wouldn't touch that with a 10' pole, gonna stick with my GM LS engines, lol.
Excellent real time video. Wish the inserting and plugging in of injectors wasn't edited out but otherwise good to see a low edited video.
When did the injector clips go back on? Anybody?
Thanks a ton, huge help with my DIY carbon cleaning. One correction, the bottom bolt for the lower bracket is NOT 10mm Triple Square, but 9mm triple square.
Just took mine out on the 2013 Jetta turbo - 10mm.
Mine was a 10. Is it possible your squares were switched in the tool kit?
Many thanks for the video. Did my 2012 audi this weekend and wow was there a lot of carbon. Ended up doing the walnut blasting which worked well. I decided to put the throttle body on after installing the intake. That gave a lot more room for the bracket but that last throttle body bolt on the back side had me pulling out hair.
Nice job Charles, allways very informative and precise, we apreciate Thanks !
Excellent video. It gave me the knowledge and confidence to successfully replace the manifold on my '13 CC.
That darn bracket had me flummoxed during disassembly. I removed the throttle body and the attached inlet pipe. This made everything about this job less frustrating even though it did add some time.
Great job with the change out .have just changed my mk 6 gti manifold and this video was invaluable . Great Job Charles and shout out to Paul for the idea .great channel and info ( I see what you mean with the support bracket .that was fun )
Keep doing what you do 🙌🏽. Best video ever. You’re a Great teacher
Yes sir
Where can I get one of those awesome VW magnetic trays???
I have question regarding the Update Hose for New TSI Intake Manifold, where does it hook to? I am considering doing this to my sons 09 GTI, it just threw code P2015.
Thanks for this thorough and informative video! Just finished putting new injectors in tonight and startup and first run right after the job went flawless
How long did you take to do all job ?
I doubt I will be attempting this but at least now I know what the job entails. My Audi is around 35,000 miles now and still runs great so thinking ahead, adding a catch can asap
Hello, I'm swapping my intake manifold and the old fuel rail bracket isn't lining up nicely with the new manifold, I got the black t30 bolts in but the longer silver bolts I can barely get them in. What can I do to help it line up?
During opening tool description I wondered why mr humble left the tool before the screwdriver out of the equation. Also no mention of NEEDED T30 extension to remove T30 bolts underneath through very narrow indents underneath manifold.
At 31:40 the intake bolts use the 5mm Allen? Figured it would be a bigger size. Doing a de carb soon and definitely want all the help I can get. I've worked on a 03 gmc yukon replacing knock sensors that are under the intake. Main issue is ones american and other german.
Good Morning, you took off a pipe/hose time staped 5:07-5:09. Right after you took off the cam position sensor plug, what is that called? I bought a used 2010 VW Passat Komfort Wagen 2.0T and there is no hose/pipe. It just has a bigger hose with a bolt and zip tie at the end. I havent been able to figure out that hose/pipe name. Thanks
This video helped a lot it took me 6hrs from start to finish, but I had lost a socket and took me a while to find it.
Hey guys, I recently did this repair using this video and everything went smoothly. I fixed my cold start misfire issue by getting out the carbon gunk. Car ran really well until I discovered I’m leaking gas pretty bad looks to be from under the manifold. The hard fuel line looks snug to me. What do you think most likely went wrong? Could it be that the bolts at the bottom of the intake are not tight enough?
Hello same issue , did you find a fix… I’m also having no coolant temp
idiots working on cars never ends well, shouldve paid a shop
picked up an autozone loaner tool to reseal the injectors, resealed them and re wired a new connector for the coolant temp sensor that I also screwed up during the job.. but only one way to learn.. , and hey this time only took maybe 30 mins to pull the intake off . @@EazyDuz18
55 seconds in and I was already laughing... you need torx, allen, and triple square all to do ONE JOB. Love that German Engineering.
Excellent video. I followed the steps and replaced my injectors. Quick question though, after reassembling everything back I noticed the car cranks but no start? Sometimes it wants to idle but it keeps cranking? Then the battery dies and the car won’t even crank any idea if I’m missing something? Or did my battery just went bad out of nowhere?
Thank you for this video! Huge help on my 12' CC.