I have a Black Hunter that Shane did this process to and he put a perfect finish back on it; you can't tell it was modified. Shane's handiwork and attention to detail is awesome.
I have a Great Plains Traditional Bow Company - Great Plainsman Longbow. 52# at 28" and that's what I pull. It's a beautiful bow and a beast to pull. It says 1993 on the riser. I bought it and the wool sock it was in at a yard sale for $125 about 20 years ago. I wasn't sure what I was buying, but now I'm certain the people selling it had no idea what they were selling.
I watched this video yesterday evening and and thanks to you I finely got the courage and "know how" how to correct my PSE Mustang which wasn't center shot and I kept fighting with it. I just didn't want to remake something what was original. I've done step by step exactly how you showed it an now the bow is just perfect! Nobody would recognize that somebody was working on it with the rasp and fil. Thanks so much for sharing! Greetings from Sweden!
I want to compliment you on your videos. It is awesome to see a bowyer work on other bows and give instructions on how to make modifications. GP is an awesome bow company!
Shane Awesome upgrade on the Black Hunter. good craftsmanship …. Had to Subscribe , Im originally from DoDa / Wichita but live in Germany …. had to say Hallo , your vids are being watched in Europe ….. Go Chiefs 💪😎
Luv your videos. I have an older recurve that I wanted to hunt with. I never really shot it before. Now practicing with it , I realized the arrow porpoising that I could not fix with the nocking point. You showed us how to check tiller and then I measured to find this bow has a 5/16 reverse tiller...yikes. It has a belly decal makers mark and narrow limbs. Would you advise edge sanding to correct or belly sanding? Thanks
@@arrowdodgerluvsmarlins1758 I would try edge sanding first. You should be able to accomplish that with just edge sanding, and then you don't have to worry about decals and writing
The edges have much crown. I need to get more sandpaper because i am only sanding wood at this point of removing only a millimeter so far. So I will touch glass tomorrow likely. I do see the string center move as I work. As a sanity check, I need to weaken the limb that needs more tiller, right?
THANK YOU. bought a new BH recurve. After sitting aprox. 15 min. Bang. pop the string??? Became dangerous. Notice limbs were out of wack. It sat for almost 2 yrs. Didnt know it could be fixed. Thank you so much. BTW had to remove over 1/8 in. on lower limb to straighten it out. Yup- used a belt sander- finish by hand. great bow now. Thanks again liked and sub.
I shot many bows as a teen varying lbs and various types. In my 40s now wanted to get back into it so i got the black hunter recurve. So far i like it but i can feel its lacking. Im a bit out of touch on newer bows. What in your opinion is a good bow to move up to price range 300-500. Im interested in getting into tourneys if i can. Im a pretty good shot.
@@nicholasosborne1356 That's a good question and I'm not sure what would be the best bow in that range, but I'd say go for a bow company that isn't production line, but is a reputable company built by hand. The $300-$500 range might be tough as that range is still kinda from production line companies
Few questions, you don't think thinning the riser to center shot would put the riser at risk of breaking at higher draw weights? Also if you refinished the riser, what did you use?
Excellent questions, Jacob. Yes you do have to be careful not to take too much off of heavier bows. The black hunter bows are made with dymalux so usually you'll be just fine thinning it down with in reason. That being said, if this bow was a 70# bow I'd have left more material on. As far as the finish goes we will be showing that soon as we continue the series of reworking the black hunter all the way through. Thanks for watching!
Measure the widest part of the limb. Then measure the width of the bow riser directly above the shelf. Or tighten a string directly centered above both limb bolts and sight down over the shelf area
Very informative video, and presented very simply and clearly. As an amateur bowyer, it helped me greatly. I noticed you didn’t pull the bow at all after removing material from the limb. I’ve read that this allows the limb to adapt to the removal. Do you think this is helpful or not? Thanks.
Great videos buddy i am from South Africa need to know if i shoot three fingers under is the top limb still weaker and tiller more like one eight of inch or can i make tiller even for three finger under?
@@greatplainsbowDo i still have to make the bottom limb sorter as the top limb longer or can the be both same length with even tiller for three under? Sorry to ask these questions i am building a replica Black Hunter..
Thanks for the inspiration and tips, cleaning up riser to limbs per your instructions. Learning barebow starting with a Black Hunter modifying my grip to my likingalso, low grip closer to my Bear Alaskan and center shot. Not sure I fully understand center shot. With center shot the arrow isn’t bowing around the riser so parralax isn’t occurring but the arrow still bends, so if it bends toward the riser it is going to kick it out. If the initial bending is away from the riser all okay. My shooting now seems inconsistent and wondering if this is the cause. Do I need to spine index my arrows to bend away from riser. Probably overthinking or misunderstanding how this works for BB. With my compound with drop away rest this isn’t an issue. Appreciate any comment
I've found that on traditional bows that are NOT center shot, going to a softer spined arrow will do wonders for your shooting....either physically replacing them OR cutting your arrows longer OR going to a heavier field point or broadhead...
I have been following this series and plan to do some of the modifications you have shown. Thank you for sharing your knowledge and insights. I have recently purchased a Black Hunter through Amazon. The limbs on my bow are square where they attach to the riser, not angled like yours. I am wondering if I have a older or newer version or perhaps a knockoff. Can you shed any light on the difference? Thanks!
You have the Mk2 version, so the latest version. The Mk1 version has the angles at the riser. I personally prefer the look of the Mk1 but I believe they changed it to make production easier.
If you had a stronger, bottom, limb, could you not just swap it with the top limb or is there something specific delineating in the top from the bottom?
I had a bow custom built. Payed a lot for it. Then they went out of biz. I’d love to send it to you and have you look it over. I’d gladly pay for your oversight.
Very good info on tillering a bow and seeing how easy it is ... when the expert is doing it 😉 Almost makes me want to go and buy a black hunter recurve ... but I'd rather save up and get a Great Plains Swift
Great video - very intersting to hear your observations. This was my first bow and it got me into archery as my "covid" project. I own a couple now before buying a Bear Grizzly. I have a 31" draw, and when I started I didn't even know what stacking was but I guess I experienced it with that bow based on your expert review! All said, I still love my black hunter and I use it for stump shooting and just messing around. It was great value for the price and it started me on a path so it did it's job! Oh, my wife has one too and love shooting it.
@@jerrythompson9111 tiller always depends on how high the shelf is above the fulcrum of the bow. On the black hunters even tiller would work, but it wouldn't be the ideal tiller due to the shelf being a ways up from the fulcrum. 1/16"-1/8" is much better
Greetings. Firstly, I apologize for the Google translation into English) There is a strange story with my BH bow: the bow is 30 pounds, the arrows are 500 spine, when shooting with three fingers under the arrow, the arrows go to the right, despite the greater rigidity for such a poundage. When shooting with a Mediterranean grip, they move to the left. The lower the fingers are located under the arrow, the greater the displacement of the arrows to the right in the target. Several people shot with different techniques and the results were approximately the same. With what it can be connected? Shoulder tiller? Or, perhaps, due to the fact that the bow is still a little off-centre?
@@greatplainsbow Yes, immediately after buying the bow I used 600 spine arrows. When aiming at the center of the target, they went too far to the right, about the radius of a standard FITA target for 18 meters. Then I took 500 spine arrows and with them the hits shifted to the left - I managed to hit the center of the target more often. As I already wrote, this problem exists among several shooters who tried to shoot with this bow. So, if the problem is the tiller, what should I do? Increase or decrease the base of the lower arm?
@@greatplainsbow so the problem is insufficient centershot? To be honest, I thought so myself, because the arrow on the shelf protrudes too much to the left of the bowstring projection.
Hadn't shot in a few years and my favorite bow was a little heavy for me (50# Howatt Hunter), ordered a lighter weight Black Hunter to build muscles back up, opened the box and the riser was cracked....bummer
That looks like the recurve model's grip and limbs, the pattern is tapered instead of flat and flush like the longbow. Wouldn't it be easier to tune the arrows to bend around the center instead of trying to remanufacture it?
Thanks for another video. Have you guys ever messed around making other traditional shape bows from modern materials. A plains native style bow would be interesting it and would probably shoot little lightning bolts 😄
Very good craftsmanship here :) my man has some real good tips here to teach! The only thing i dont understand is why someone wants to make a 60" hunting recurve bow center shot when its clearly not made for it. The bow is way to short to be shot 3 under and especialy to string walk. The bow window is so curved on the shelf and the side because when you cant the bow by a few degrees its supposed to have minimal contact and clears the shelf + side flawless with the right arrows. Yes the bow is a cheap 80€ AliExpress bow and we cant expect a perfect product like a 600€ bow would be but it has its ideas and it shoots realy realy good for this price tag.
@@greatplainsbow cool thanks for the reply. Yes I’m getting good arrow flight. I just made it a center shot. Gonna test it out when I get off of work. Hopefully that fixes the aiming to the right to hit my target.
Yes chaps. Subscribed Ive started building yew self bows and im looking to elbow way into the scene and find me some archers. I would be honoured if y'all would come check em out
BLACK HUNTER is an amazing accurate and fun bow to shoot for the price. I don't know why people buy this inexpensive well-made bows and then bash them . go buy a thunderchild or Acadianwoods or caribow or something.
the hardest thing to do is to pick up the rasp or sandpaer for the 1st time and FIX your bow....you will be amazed at what simple adjustments will make in your shooting....slow and slow
Hi Chane Johan here I use my wife phone. Do you go 1/4 or 1/8 past center on riser? And how thick must the arrow rest calf hair must be so tiller won't be out? And how thick must the side plate leather be? Great rebuild there I am going to change my longbow also how you did it here it not centre shot.
I like your how to video, but just a comment (or two). It would be more accurate to use your bowyer's square to measure the string height for the positive tiller check. The square would keep your measurement perpendicular to the string more precisely. By the way, why is brace height measured from the grip rather than the back of the bow like draw length? Seems that would be more consistent what with all the different grip shapes out there.
Hi Robert, thanks for your comment and also for watching! The bow square is a good idea, but once you've done thousands of bows its really no more accurate and its twice as slow. On the brace height thought, I think thats a great idea I have thought of that myself many times, however all the bow companies do it from the deepest part of the handle and if we were to change it there would continuous confusion and constantly explaining that to our customers. I think everyone would need to get together and agree to change it to that way of measuring for that to work. Good thoughts. I like the way you're thinking
FYI a New bow will settle once broken in so that extra 3 lbs will go down more once the string and limbs are broken in even i know this and im just a shooter and now getting into hunting
@@greatplainsbow Thank you very much for your reply. I’m going to have to give this some thought. I’m thinking I might have it done. I’m sure I could refinish the riser. I have refinished gun stocks before. About what would your turn around time be?
I bought a Black Hunter, it shoots just fine as it is. Interesting video, but a waste of time on a Black Hunter, unless you just want to work on your woodworking skills.
I disagree. There are lots of people that want to up their game. Also the more you get into archery and understand bows the more you learn how to get more from your equipment.
OK this is a cheap China bow... But that's not comparable to a custom bow...you get really good stuff for the money. A chentershot is not necessary in my eyes. Also, in my opinion, a hybrid longbow does not need a tapper... But thanks for the honest assessment
Those are good thoughts. A taper is important because it allows the bowyer to strategically control when and where the limbs bend. This increases performance tremendously in traditional bows. Without a taper the bow is just subjected to the original form and the only way to increase performance is bow length and weight.
As far as the centershot you are correct it's not necessary to shoot the bow, but people are shooting bows for the fun of it and part of the fun is tweaking you're equipment to get optimum performance and enjoyment from the sport
When you draw the bow to figure out weight at 28" where do you measure the 28"? Front or back of riser? I see people doing it many ways, or assuming arrow lengths based on someone's assumed draw length and I don't necessarily agree to that. Just curious how you measured! Thanks
Even though it was worth it I feel the same. I guess he is encouraging us all to do it ourselves and save the money. Some would not like this option. I think it is a great option.
Well I don't think it's that they think they are so great over American made custom bows, but lots of people can't afford expensive bows so they buy a black hunter and then have a positive attitude about it so it seems like they think the black hunter is the best, but really they are just enjoying the sport the best way they can which is awesome
I have a Black Hunter that Shane did this process to and he put a perfect finish back on it; you can't tell it was modified. Shane's handiwork and attention to detail is awesome.
Thanks, Bryson!
How much does the touch up work usually cost???
Curious myself how much you'd charge to rework one?
How much do u charge for this
I have a Great Plains Traditional Bow Company - Great Plainsman Longbow. 52# at 28" and that's what I pull. It's a beautiful bow and a beast to pull. It says 1993 on the riser. I bought it and the wool sock it was in at a yard sale for $125 about 20 years ago. I wasn't sure what I was buying, but now I'm certain the people selling it had no idea what they were selling.
I watched this video yesterday evening and and thanks to you I finely got the courage and "know how" how to correct my PSE Mustang which wasn't center shot and I kept fighting with it. I just didn't want to remake something what was original. I've done step by step exactly how you showed it an now the bow is just perfect! Nobody would recognize that somebody was working on it with the rasp and fil.
Thanks so much for sharing!
Greetings from Sweden!
That's so awesome!
I want to compliment you on your videos. It is awesome to see a bowyer work on other bows and give instructions on how to make modifications. GP is an awesome bow company!
Wow, thank you!
I enjoy watching your redo on other manufacturers bows.
Thanks for watching, Robert!
I’m 6’8” tall. My DL is 31”. I’m enjoying the channel.
@@saxman7131 you're a regular viking warrior!!!
I’m 6’9” tall. My DL is 32”. I’m enjoying the channel more.
Shane Awesome upgrade on the Black Hunter. good craftsmanship …. Had to Subscribe , Im originally from DoDa / Wichita but live in Germany …. had to say Hallo , your vids are being watched in Europe ….. Go Chiefs 💪😎
Thanks for watching!
Luv your videos. I have an older recurve that I wanted to hunt with. I never really shot it before. Now practicing with it , I realized the arrow porpoising that I could not fix with the nocking point. You showed us how to check tiller and then I measured to find this bow has a 5/16 reverse tiller...yikes. It has a belly decal makers mark and narrow limbs. Would you advise edge sanding to correct or belly sanding? Thanks
@@arrowdodgerluvsmarlins1758 I would try edge sanding first. You should be able to accomplish that with just edge sanding, and then you don't have to worry about decals and writing
Super, thanks. I will do so and post results !
@@arrowdodgerluvsmarlins1758 awesome! I'm excited to see your project!
The edges have much crown. I need to get more sandpaper because i am only sanding wood at this point of removing only a millimeter so far. So I will touch glass tomorrow likely. I do see the string center move as I work. As a sanity check, I need to weaken the limb that needs more tiller, right?
@@arrowdodgerluvsmarlins1758 that's correct. Also you can text me pics to the second number on my website. greatplainsbow.com
Is there any aftermarket limbs that will fit that bow? I have the longbow version also. Like the video
@@hix6791 not sure if there are or not. A person could pretty easily modify some limbs for it
Would be a cool project for a beginner at-home bowyer.
Yes sir!
Very cool and i didn't know you could affect tiller by sanding the sides of the limb like that. Looking forward to more stuff.
More to come!
THANK YOU. bought a new BH recurve. After sitting aprox. 15 min. Bang. pop the string??? Became dangerous. Notice limbs were out of wack. It sat for almost 2 yrs. Didnt know it could be fixed. Thank you so much. BTW had to remove over 1/8 in. on lower limb to straighten it out. Yup- used a belt sander- finish by hand. great bow now. Thanks again liked and sub.
Awesome!
I shot many bows as a teen varying lbs and various types. In my 40s now wanted to get back into it so i got the black hunter recurve. So far i like it but i can feel its lacking. Im a bit out of touch on newer bows. What in your opinion is a good bow to move up to price range 300-500. Im interested in getting into tourneys if i can. Im a pretty good shot.
@@nicholasosborne1356 That's a good question and I'm not sure what would be the best bow in that range, but I'd say go for a bow company that isn't production line, but is a reputable company built by hand. The $300-$500 range might be tough as that range is still kinda from production line companies
Very interesting! Thank you for sharing your knowledge.
Glad you enjoyed it!
Few questions, you don't think thinning the riser to center shot would put the riser at risk of breaking at higher draw weights? Also if you refinished the riser, what did you use?
Excellent questions, Jacob. Yes you do have to be careful not to take too much off of heavier bows. The black hunter bows are made with dymalux so usually you'll be just fine thinning it down with in reason. That being said, if this bow was a 70# bow I'd have left more material on. As far as the finish goes we will be showing that soon as we continue the series of reworking the black hunter all the way through. Thanks for watching!
Thanx for doing a great job and for sharing your knowledge!! Would you recommend to install inserts for stabilizer or for a riser mounted bow quiver?
If you want those on there yes you can do that. The riser is strong enough for those inserts. Thanks for watching!
Cool vid, how and where do you measure to see how off center it is?
Measure the widest part of the limb. Then measure the width of the bow riser directly above the shelf. Or tighten a string directly centered above both limb bolts and sight down over the shelf area
@@greatplainsbow Thanks, would the target width be half the width of the thickest part of the limb minus half the diameter of a shaft?
@@jayinla228 that's correct you got it
Very informative video, and presented very simply and clearly. As an amateur bowyer, it helped me greatly. I noticed you didn’t pull the bow at all after removing material from the limb. I’ve read that this allows the limb to adapt to the removal. Do you think this is helpful or not? Thanks.
@@stringbean585 oh I pulled it a bunch it's just not on video, but it's not that necessary. You're gonna shoot it anyway to test it
Great videos buddy i am from South Africa need to know if i shoot three fingers under is the top limb still weaker and tiller more like one eight of inch or can i make tiller even for three finger under?
You can make the tiller even or 1/16". Either one should work great
@@greatplainsbowDo i still have to make the bottom limb sorter as the top limb longer or can the be both same length with even tiller for three under? Sorry to ask these questions i am building a replica Black Hunter..
@@johanhelberglongbowsknifes1185 no worries. Make the limbs the same length. Email me I'll help you. My email is on the website
@@greatplainsbowThank you buddy appreciate it very mush i am going to put the limb in the heat box busy with it. I will email you. Have a awesome day.
Thanks for the inspiration and tips, cleaning up riser to limbs per your instructions. Learning barebow starting with a Black Hunter modifying my grip to my likingalso, low grip closer to my Bear Alaskan and center shot. Not sure I fully understand center shot. With center shot the arrow isn’t bowing around the riser so parralax isn’t occurring but the arrow still bends, so if it bends toward the riser it is going to kick it out. If the initial bending is away from the riser all okay. My shooting now seems inconsistent and wondering if this is the cause. Do I need to spine index my arrows to bend away from riser. Probably overthinking or misunderstanding how this works for BB. With my compound with drop away rest this isn’t an issue. Appreciate any comment
I've found that on traditional bows that are NOT center shot, going to a softer spined arrow will do wonders for your shooting....either physically replacing them OR cutting your arrows longer OR going to a heavier field point or broadhead...
I shoot a 40lb black hunter longbow, enjoyed the video, very informative. Would like to have seen you shoot it. Thanks
Thanks for making this video. Learned a lot.
I have been following this series and plan to do some of the modifications you have shown. Thank you for sharing your knowledge and insights. I have recently purchased a Black Hunter through Amazon. The limbs on my bow are square where they attach to the riser, not angled like yours. I am wondering if I have a older or newer version or perhaps a knockoff. Can you shed any light on the difference? Thanks!
You have the Mk2 version, so the latest version. The Mk1 version has the angles at the riser. I personally prefer the look of the Mk1 but I believe they changed it to make production easier.
If you had a stronger, bottom, limb, could you not just swap it with the top limb or is there something specific delineating in the top from the bottom?
That's a good thought and yes you could if the limbs lined up correctly with the riser. On this particular bow they didn't
I had a bow custom built. Payed a lot for it. Then they went out of biz. I’d love to send it to you and have you look it over. I’d gladly pay for your oversight.
Let's do it
Very good info on tillering a bow and seeing how easy it is ... when the expert is doing it 😉 Almost makes me want to go and buy a black hunter recurve ... but I'd rather save up and get a Great Plains Swift
Yes! Hope you do! Thanks for watching!
Great video - very intersting to hear your observations. This was my first bow and it got me into archery as my "covid" project. I own a couple now before buying a Bear Grizzly. I have a 31" draw, and when I started I didn't even know what stacking was but I guess I experienced it with that bow based on your expert review! All said, I still love my black hunter and I use it for stump shooting and just messing around. It was great value for the price and it started me on a path so it did it's job! Oh, my wife has one too and love shooting it.
Hey that's great, Kevin!
Doesn't archers paradox take care of the slight offset?
Somewhat, but not completely. A center shot bow will shoot a much larger variety of spines
What about even tiller for 3 finger under???
@@jerrythompson9111 tiller always depends on how high the shelf is above the fulcrum of the bow. On the black hunters even tiller would work, but it wouldn't be the ideal tiller due to the shelf being a ways up from the fulcrum. 1/16"-1/8" is much better
@@greatplainsbow thank you. You always show much needed things for us wontbe bowers.
Greetings. Firstly, I apologize for the Google translation into English) There is a strange story with my BH bow: the bow is 30 pounds, the arrows are 500 spine, when shooting with three fingers under the arrow, the arrows go to the right, despite the greater rigidity for such a poundage. When shooting with a Mediterranean grip, they move to the left. The lower the fingers are located under the arrow, the greater the displacement of the arrows to the right in the target. Several people shot with different techniques and the results were approximately the same. With what it can be connected? Shoulder tiller? Or, perhaps, due to the fact that the bow is still a little off-centre?
@@denskky5284 there's a good chance it's a tiller problem, but you should be shooting 600 spine with a 30# bow
@@greatplainsbow Yes, immediately after buying the bow I used 600 spine arrows. When aiming at the center of the target, they went too far to the right, about the radius of a standard FITA target for 18 meters. Then I took 500 spine arrows and with them the hits shifted to the left - I managed to hit the center of the target more often.
As I already wrote, this problem exists among several shooters who tried to shoot with this bow.
So, if the problem is the tiller, what should I do? Increase or decrease the base of the lower arm?
@@denskky5284 if you've tried different spines and it still does it than it is most likely that the bow needs to be cut past center
@@greatplainsbow so the problem is insufficient centershot? To be honest, I thought so myself, because the arrow on the shelf protrudes too much to the left of the bowstring projection.
@@denskky5284 most likely that is the problem
Hadn't shot in a few years and my favorite bow was a little heavy for me (50# Howatt Hunter), ordered a lighter weight Black Hunter to build muscles back up, opened the box and the riser was cracked....bummer
Great tutorial. Quite helpful 👍🎯
Glad to hear that!
great video!
Thanks!
That looks like the recurve model's grip and limbs, the pattern is tapered instead of flat and flush like the longbow. Wouldn't it be easier to tune the arrows to bend around the center instead of trying to remanufacture it?
I have about a 28 1/2 inch draw length would it hurt to get a 29inch draw bow ❓❓❓
No that should be fine
@@greatplainsbow thanks 🙏🙏🙏
Thanks for another video.
Have you guys ever messed around making other traditional shape bows from modern materials. A plains native style bow would be interesting it and would probably shoot little lightning bolts 😄
We've messed around a bit with different bow profiles. At the moment we are considering the Comanche flatbow
@@greatplainsbow Nice! that's going to be exciting to see. Osage may finally fall from the throne haha.
@@LionAstrology 😁 I doubt it'll ever replace good ol osage selfbows, but it should be fun
Very good craftsmanship here :) my man has some real good tips here to teach!
The only thing i dont understand is why someone wants to make a 60" hunting recurve bow center shot when its clearly not made for it.
The bow is way to short to be shot 3 under and especialy to string walk. The bow window is so curved on the shelf and the side because when you cant the bow by a few degrees its supposed to have minimal contact and clears the shelf + side flawless with the right arrows.
Yes the bow is a cheap 80€ AliExpress bow and we cant expect a perfect product like a 600€ bow would be but it has its ideas and it shoots realy realy good for this price tag.
Ok so I checked my tiller on my black hunter and both top and bottom limbs around about 6 3/8” is that okay?
Well that's even tiller which isn't correct tiller, but if you're getting good arrow flight without porpoise then it'll be ok
@@greatplainsbow cool thanks for the reply. Yes I’m getting good arrow flight. I just made it a center shot. Gonna test it out when I get off of work. Hopefully that fixes the aiming to the right to hit my target.
@@Terpedup925 that's great! Good luck and happy shooting!
Yes chaps. Subscribed
Ive started building yew self bows and im looking to elbow way into the scene and find me some archers.
I would be honoured if y'all would come check em out
@@sweetchariotengland sure. What's your site?
@@greatplainsbow I'm posting videos here and listed on my Sweet Chariot Etsy shop. No website yet.
Many thanks for the reply dude
Do you offer this as a service? If yes how much per bow?
Thanks great video
Yep we can do it. It'd be $200 plus shipping
@@greatplainsbow
Sounds like a good deal.
Thank you
GREAT STUFF,,,,
Thanks!
Sanlida x8 how much are they 45# right hand
BLACK HUNTER is an amazing accurate and fun bow to shoot for the price. I don't know why people buy this inexpensive well-made bows and then bash them . go buy a thunderchild or Acadianwoods or caribow or something.
the hardest thing to do is to pick up the rasp or sandpaer for the 1st time and FIX your bow....you will be amazed at what simple adjustments will make in your shooting....slow and slow
Hi Chane Johan here I use my wife phone. Do you go 1/4 or 1/8 past center on riser? And how thick must the arrow rest calf hair must be so tiller won't be out? And how thick must the side plate leather be? Great rebuild there I am going to change my longbow also how you did it here it not centre shot.
You determine exact center shot then take off half your arrow width+the thickness of your riser pad of choice.
I like your how to video, but just a comment (or two). It would be more accurate to use your bowyer's square to measure the string height for the positive tiller check. The square would keep your measurement perpendicular to the string more precisely. By the way, why is brace height measured from the grip rather than the back of the bow like draw length? Seems that would be more consistent what with all the different grip shapes out there.
Hi Robert, thanks for your comment and also for watching! The bow square is a good idea, but once you've done thousands of bows its really no more accurate and its twice as slow. On the brace height thought, I think thats a great idea I have thought of that myself many times, however all the bow companies do it from the deepest part of the handle and if we were to change it there would continuous confusion and constantly explaining that to our customers. I think everyone would need to get together and agree to change it to that way of measuring for that to work. Good thoughts. I like the way you're thinking
FYI a New bow will settle once broken in so that extra 3 lbs will go down more once the string and limbs are broken in even i know this and im just a shooter and now getting into hunting
@@KevinMillard68 actually that is not accurate. A well built traditional bow does not lose weight
How much do you charge to modify a Black Hunter arrow shelf?
If I don't do the refinishing then just $50. If I rework the shelf and refinish the riser it'd be $150
@@greatplainsbow Thank you very much for your reply. I’m going to have to give this some thought. I’m thinking I might have it done. I’m sure I could refinish the riser. I have refinished gun stocks before. About what would your turn around time be?
@@robertlipsey6056 if it's just the shelf probably two weeks till you get it back
@@greatplainsbow. 👍
Centre shot helps aiming. Without it even with 4.2 arrows they kick out.
Eyeballing work. A simple laser and you will know for sure.
Right off the bat, it may not be a genuine original manufacturer bow. Because my Black Hunter is in excellent condition.
Bet it's a bit quieter also
Yep
I bought a Black Hunter, it shoots just fine as it is. Interesting video, but a waste of time on a Black Hunter, unless you just want to work on your woodworking skills.
I disagree. There are lots of people that want to up their game. Also the more you get into archery and understand bows the more you learn how to get more from your equipment.
@@greatplainsbow Like I said, my Black Hunter shoots just fine. When I want to up my game, I’ll buy one of your bows.
OK this is a cheap China bow... But that's not comparable to a custom bow...you get really good stuff for the money. A chentershot is not necessary in my eyes. Also, in my opinion, a hybrid longbow does not need a tapper... But thanks for the honest assessment
Those are good thoughts. A taper is important because it allows the bowyer to strategically control when and where the limbs bend. This increases performance tremendously in traditional bows. Without a taper the bow is just subjected to the original form and the only way to increase performance is bow length and weight.
As far as the centershot you are correct it's not necessary to shoot the bow, but people are shooting bows for the fun of it and part of the fun is tweaking you're equipment to get optimum performance and enjoyment from the sport
@@greatplainsbow That's absolut true no doubt about it... But on a that price it should be OK...
@@ullikuschal8000 yep. I agree
When you draw the bow to figure out weight at 28" where do you measure the 28"? Front or back of riser? I see people doing it many ways, or assuming arrow lengths based on someone's assumed draw length and I don't necessarily agree to that. Just curious how you measured! Thanks
I'm surprised the southern gentleman cannot read Mandarin.
Oh if only I could 😁
$300 work on an $90 bow
Even though it was worth it I feel the same. I guess he is encouraging us all to do it ourselves and save the money. Some would not like this option. I think it is a great option.
Huuuuuyyyyyyyyyyyyiiii q bien pero no le entiendo su lugua
I don't understand why people think these are great bows. Makes me believe they never got to shoot a great bow.
Well I don't think it's that they think they are so great over American made custom bows, but lots of people can't afford expensive bows so they buy a black hunter and then have a positive attitude about it so it seems like they think the black hunter is the best, but really they are just enjoying the sport the best way they can which is awesome
Its that they are a great bow for their intended purpose...they arent meant to compete with high end and customs
Post a follow up on how to reseal it!! This was very very informative.
Yep. Will do